Nextbase 322GW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PV198QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2XIVDb3K80M1Z
I’ve had a few issues with it like occasionally freezing and trouble using the built in WiFi to download videos, but overall it’s alright.
Prime lightning deal for 3 more hours. 32% off if you're interested.
Vantrue N2 Uber Dual Dash Cam-1080P Inside and Outside Dash Camera for Cars 1.5" Near 360° Wide Angle Lyft Dashboard Cam w/ Parking Mode, Motion Detection, Front Camera Night Vision Effects https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073WQ7K6C/
This is EXACTLY why everyone should have dashcams.
Mine saved me a lot of money a few months ago when a delivery driver was texting and the driver drifted into my lane and side swiped my car. She argued that I had attempted to switch lanes into hers because she was in my blind spot. My dashcam vid settled that argument. I am now seriously thinking about getting a dual cam, specifically the new A129 Pro Duo since the A129 has always gotten rave reviews and this is the new and upgraded 4k one.
Im sorry im not familiar with the terms but I got this one.
I should of brought a nicer one but broke college student
edit: I know it's not the exact route, but the destruction is still too recent to allow people to drive through there.
I bought one of these, then returned it because I found out they were Li-ion battery based, rather than using a capacitor. Got a Viofo A119 instead. I’m told that Amazon ripped off the Viofo design with the rexing which apparently is an Amazon in-house brand.
One more huge tip, get an endurance rated SD card. Not any old as card. These card get beat up pretty badly because the cameras continually access the card non-stop.
It is just a version of dash cam that has a camera pointed out front and pointed behind to capture both angles. It might not fully capture the rear traffic, but did capture enough I believe.
Here is a link to the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/VAV-2560x1440P-Infrared-Control-Parking/dp/B09B8MDJF4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2D7P7RZYPN45P&dchild=1&keywords=vava+2k+dual+dash+cam&qid=1629465134&sprefix=vava+2k%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=...
In most large cities it seems like current fashion is all about dark clothing. I bought a reflective jacket off Amazon (this one) and have gotten compliments on it because it doesn't have that construction worker look. It is more of a plain white/gray until you're outside and headlights hit it.
One pair I found, there's other listings for different shaped glasses too (aviators, wayfarers, etc.,)
The only problem I have with it is that it doesn't save the date/time if it's not continuously connected to a power source. I have a workaround and, as you can see, it works really well.
it's the Rove R2-4K Dash Cam Built in WiFi GPS Car Dashboard Camera Recorder with UHD 2160P, 2.4" LCD, 150° Wide Angle, WDR, Night Vision I got it off of Amazon based on recommendations by others in this group
I personally have the Rexing V1. its full HD wide angle lens makes for great front coverage all at a reasonable price too (only $99.99 which gives budget room for a good quality SD card) they even have a better models up (V1P and V1LG) that have a rear view camera as well but they’re an additional $30 and $70 respectively.
One thing to note is the dash cam is powered only by a long cigarette lighter cord so you’ll have to run it through the sides to hide it if that’s something that bothers you. I have had no trouble with mine and leave it on at all times in case someone hits my car while it’s parked. Hopefully this helps you get on the right path for research
The G1W/C/H would be the most affordable.
Gearbest is having a sale, the item usually costs $55-60, but with the coupon it's only $40, search on google for the review, or search G1W on youtube to see the good quality. reports from slickdeal users say it is legit.
I have the Viofo A119 V3, I've had it for a year now and I love it! Great quality video, and easy to pull videos off with micro SD card. I haven't had any issues with it yet.
Although I haven't experienced this exact issue myself, is hazard a guess that VLC player (https://www.videolan.org/vlc/index.en-GB.html) will be able to extract any thing salvageable from the video file.
Video files are written to disk in a stream of data, the beginning part can be absolutely fine even if the tail end didn't get written correctly. Some players will expect to be able to read both ends of the file before playing the video and if the tail end is damaged/missing, they will refuse to play even the good part.
I've seen VLC player behave better and play partly damaged files in the past.
One of these bad boys mounted right at eye level would surely do the trick.
4K is generally not the best for a dashcam because (in general) a higher resolution sensor has worse low light capabilities. Plus with a higher resolution like this you will destroy your memory card due to the amount of data constantly writing to it. And the heat from processing 4K is a lot higher.
If you need 4K your best bet would be to have a lower res cam permanently mounted then use a Real 4K action cam when you need the 4K.
The Yi 4K+ Amazon Link is an inexpensive option for 4K60. Two of those and you can have one facing forward and one facing backwards.
This is the one I use. Half the price, and all the same listed features. I can vouch for this one. Super clear picture.
>I know what supercaps are
>They do work like batteries in terms of discharging rate.
They do not. Caps can discharge in fractions of a second if you want them to. The energy discharged from a capacitor is mainly limited by the circuit between its high and ground. The energy discharged from a battery depends on its chemistry, and how quickly the reaction can occur.
>I have two dash cams for back and front and neither emit heat when they're off despite the fact one uses supercap and the other a lithium battery
And his camera isn't off. The Blackvue system records when the car is parked, if you set it up that way (it's one of the selling features of the system) - which OP has elected to do.
>It's not normal nor safe and I have a half melted dash cam to prove that.
>https://imgur.com/wn9knwV.jpg it actually looks much worse than it is in the picture.
You mean this camera? The one with a lithium ion battery, not a capacitor. Quit your bullshit.
One of the first things listed in most guides for dash cam buying is to not buy a dash cam that uses lithium ion batteries. Lithium ion batteries don't get hot during normal discharge uses (charging is a separate matter), but the plastic between the layers of the battery does break down when exposed to high heat - like the kind of heat a car in summer might experience. This is why they recommend a lithium-iron-phosphate battery or capacitor, because they don't breakdown under elevated temperatures.
because its not 1080p. its 640x480 or 720x480 interpolated up to 1080p. it would be kind of like me pointing my actual 1080p camcorder at my 32" tube Television playing a VHS Tape of a movie and saying "see" its 1080p except my version would probably actually look better than what you would get from this camera.
as a dash cam its not bad. it does what it needs to do. but its not 1080p and that price is way too high.
if you want a cheap "ok" dashcam go with this one on amazon for $36
I have 2 of these. so far over 8 months they are still going. the video is crap mediocre 720p video that is kind of crap but usable and serviceable at night.
the wifi download is nice and it actually CHANGES the file name to SAV when you hit the button to save a clip which makes it very easy to slurp all your saved clips off the camera now and then.
if you have a heavy angle windscreen you want to check this before stickying it down IE you might need to shim it to get a more ideal viewing angle.
otherwise its reliable (never failed to start and record on me yet which is a really critical feature of a dashcam WTH is the point if it just does not work when you really need it too)
ok sound. ok video. low profile. good unit for the price. I am seeking higher quality but so far all my higher quality units just DIE after a few weeks or months.
I got a DDpai M6 and I freaking love it. it died 2 months in. Grrrr
Before you buy anything from Goluk, be aware that their Android app requires just about every permission possible:
Their camera has some nice features, but giving a Chinese (or any) company full access to everything on your phone is not something most people would knowingly do.
I am a Linux and Windows user, but ffmpeg, which is available for Macs can convert formats.
edit: Vlc, which is a good video reader, that can use almost any format and works with multi channel videos, is available for all oses, including mac
I am assuming that you are driving people for hire and want to protect yourself. But even if that's not the case, I suggest that you not buy this dashcam. You will end up very disappointed. It is a low grade, generic dashcam with inferior hardware, and despite what it claims, it can only do 720P. The video samples that are provided with the review are shot in 720P and are of poor quality. It will run and record but how long for is unknown. At one point tis dashcam was on sale at Gearbest for $16.99.
You would be much better off buying 2 G1W-HC dashcams from Gearbest at $37 each. If the information on them is correct, it would be a good deal.
Look for hunting cameras. They have inferred night vision and their own power source. Heres one for $75. Maybe you can find one cheeper.
Fair enough. You hadn't mentioned that in the post, so I figured I bring it up.
Anyway, this one looks very close to what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE
Good down to -29 C
24/7 parking monitor with vibration detection (not motion based unfortunately)
Or this one:
Good down to -20 C. I know, not quite low enough, but...
24/7 motion detection recording
Unfortunately I'm not seeing anything that's good down to -40C, but someone might have input on that.
Thanks. Do you have any experience with the Viofo A129? Not sure which hardwiring kit I need. I see just the kit on Amazon and they also sell with fuse taps. I only see 2 fuse taps for 3 wires and not sure if that's enough.
That one scared me, I'm glad you and the other people in the car were alright. If the car would have been a newer model they collision warning would went off and the car would braked automatically.
Would be interesting to see aftermath photos of the injuries and the Prius. You could use a site like IMGBB and post the link in the comments:
You're literally doing this shit. You need to grasp that you can and do make mistakes.
Anyway I'm blocking you because your arrogance is gross.
Best quality for the price are the G1W cams. Lots of fakes out there, but the legit ones have quality that not even $100 cameras can beat
Cheapest price I found: http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_16927.html
It's listed on the bottom in the center (VIOFO A119 PRO)
Yah, I would not run it there, these cams usually draw more current than 500 ma, which is what a standard port puts out. I would either get a wire to the odb2 or I would run seperate lighter plug that provided 2 amps.
One test to find out if it is electrical is put it in your front seat and see if it happens. If it happens when it is not being jostled so hard then it is not sd card or mount or vibration but not enough current.
Buy one of those and see the current draw on your console vs a seperate USB adapter.
Why not permanently install a cam in your car and pick up a cheap Novatek + AR0330 cam for your motorbike? Most dash cams aren't waterproof and action cams left in cars are not subtle and could lead to break-ins.
Probably not. It's a generic Chinese dashcam sold under different names. This one is very sparse on specifications so you would be buying a pig in a poke. And at that price you may be lucky if works at all. I wouldn't take a chance. Spend a little more ($48.99) and get a decent, popular, known dashcam that works well. This one is on sale right now. http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_142025.html?utm_source=shareasale&utm_medium=shareasale&utm_campaign=shareasale
G1W-C. The capacitor of the -C version will allow it to work at lower and higher temperatures. The regular battery one would probably die after a few weeks in sub-zero temps.
This is the best price I could find for a legit one (watch out for fakes, they usually have less video quality and end up having a battery too): http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_67201.html
Suggest A118C which has the capacitor and can take the heat: http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_142025.html
or the same style high end variant which is currently considered the 'best bang for the buck'
> I think I'm looking for something along the same lines as OP. No real need for 1080 hd, even 480 would be fine with me.
Thrust me. I have dealt with 480P cameras. You want at the very least 1080P. You might not think about it now, but if someone were to hit you and take off in a car park, or back in to your car and leave the 1080P camera will have a better chance at getting the plate clearly. Also anything below 1080P and without HDR would be useless at night.
You can turn G-Sensor off on any camera, but it is a standard feature with almost all DashCams.
As written above a real G1W is the absolute very least that I would get, but personally I wold get something a little nicer.
You can find the G1W battery version on eBay from seller eStore009. They are a well respected seller on DashCamTalk. It is item number 310752336819 and it is currently 46 dollars with free shipping.
From someone who has dealt with 30 dollar 480P cams please do yourself a favor and spend the few extra dollars on a real G1W from eStore or get an all black wider view G1W-H from GearBest for the same price.
Try a full (not quick) reformat of the card using: SD Memory Card Formatter. Then reformat the cards to FAT32 using Guiformat2.
Standard format. Videos use the .MOV container and are encoded using H.264. VLC works well. If you don't have that then the CCCP Codec Pack will power whatever you normally use.
> Are these good systems?
Not sure, but probably not. Spec wise it will have a very small storage space, and does a lot of different things.
With something that combines so many different things, you want it to work, you want it to last, and you want it not to have annoying features/bugs. Odds of that happening, are very very low.
For dash cams:
Build quality - How long will it last? 3 months - 6 months? 5+ Years? How long?
Video quality - Google dash cam name + sample footage - look for day/night/shadow footage, try to read plates, look for flaws.
Parking mode - Automatic Engage/Disengage? Buffered? Low Voltage Cut Off Feature? What voltage?
Are the important features. Everything else is a bell and whistle and doesn't matter.
For Back up cameras:
Zero lag - is very important when you are backing up a vehicle.
Lens angle - you want to see wide angle like 160-170 degrees, which makes for poor dash cam video quality.
Automatically detect when your vehicle is in reverse and turn on screen/load back up camera.
These are very different wants than a dash camera. I would not combine the two. What you are looking for is perfection, which is very hard to do, and I doubt would be done cheaply.
> Looking to spend roughly $65 USD, ideally less.
It doesn't have everything you want, but does everything you need. Max Micro SD card size is 64 GB. Suggest MLC (High Endurance/Endurance) type.
I would say save up and buy a good quality dash cam, you want something that could clearly read license plates, especially at night. And you want a dash cam that has a rear camera too, you are spending $120 to potentially save you paying thousands if some moron hits you and blames you or takes off.
If you still want something for around $50 get this
But I would recommend you save up and get at least this
Often highly praised and recommended for it's quality of build, its superior video imaging quality and its after-sales service and support is the Street Guardian SG9665GC dashcam.
This is a wedge-shaped little dashcam that is easy to install, ideal for stealth installation should you be concerned about theft or vandalism, and once installed requires very little attention from the user.
This dashcam offers the following:
Full, high definition video recording at 1080P
WDR (Wide Dynamic Range) for superior nighttime recording
G-sensor and motion detection
GPS with speed data
Super capacitor for ensuring optimal all-weather reliability
OTG (on-the-go) cable for transferring files to phone or other device
SD Card Reader
Massive storage capacity up to 200GB.
Available at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-Supercapacitor-DashCam/dp/B00U0OJMYG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478714714&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Street+Guardian+SG9665GCv2
Well, I'd rather not spend more than € 100-150. Obviously I should have mentioned that, sorry :)
I didn't know that dual lenses were an option before today. I'd rather have that than two separate cameras. I don't think I can even understand the wiring involved in including two separate cameras. My car has a panoramic sunroof, so getting wires across it will be tricky. Still, I'm not quite clear on how the second lens would work (dual-lens in one camera).
That being said, it seems that getting a replacement suction cup mount might be an option. Are the mount connectors (not even sure that's the right term) standard? This is mine (which still works, in the same crappy way it has always worked). It has a T-like mount, if you can't see it from the photos. I found something like it on Amazon.
EDIT: On the new suction mount page, the second photo shows something that looks exactly like my (crappy) Blaupunkt dashcam. This might answer my question anyway.
This one has decent review and a customer posted a sample video of the dual camera in action. The quality of the camera seems to be average to good, but not excellent (just to keep it in mind). Amazon videos compress customer's review video so the video may be grindy and will look a lot better in person.
Read this thread.
You're linking Amazon Canada, you I'm suspecting cold enviroments. That SpyTec one has problems in the cold. See the reviews and from my own personal experience.
I replaced it with this one (though the USB side of the cord is shorter)
Vantrue N2 dual dash cam . Here is the link to amazon.
Vantrue N2 Dual Dash Cam - 1080P FHD +HDR Front and Back Wide Angle Dual Lens 1.5" LCD In Car Dashboard Camera DVR Video Recorder with G-Sensor, Parking Mode & Super Night Vision https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IHLKZ0I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I tapped into the map light power for dash cams in my two cars a year ago. I can't find the link to the post I used as an example (from a Toyota Tundra forum) at the time. I did a search and found this which is the exact process I followed: https://www.infinitiscene.com/threads/diy-how-to-install-a-dash-cam-by-tapping-into-rearview-mirror.46015/
I had never soldered before but learned how. Spent less than $50 on Amazon and had everything I needed to complete the project. I had a circuit tester in my tool box already.
This was the power converter I used and both are still working a year later with no issues: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U2DGJD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rxVIAbF26W0TV
If I can find the original post I followed I will edit and add it.
This looks like the best deal on Amazon right now.
Edit: Be aware, the link is to a V1 model!!
The Yi Ultra can support 32GB up to 128GB. The only reason why I got 128GB was my brother got a ticket from police saying he "changed lanes dangerously" violation but by the time the violation arrived in the mailbox, the SD card memory self-deleted (looped) on itself on 32GB.
But most people usually get 32GB, it's really not necessary to get 128GB, it's really up to you.
If you are in the market for 32GB, I recommend these from amazon:
Sandisk Extreme 32GB U3 for ~$16 on Amazon (make sure it is U3, fastest version)
Samsung U3 32GB for ~15 on Amazon (Make sure you get the U3 and not the U1 version, not UHS-1, not Evo Plus)
U3 is the fastest, which is good for 2.7K resolution.
Amazon will probably be your best best on prices. Prices fluctuate weekly. The SanDisk A1 256GB seems to go down to about $40 fairly often.
Dash Cam, Full HD 1080P Dash Camera, 170 Degree Wide Angle Dual Channel Car Camera with G-Sensor, Loop Recording, Parking Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BGT8FLL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZPb0CbCMR9WM7
So this is the exact listing from Amazon, but it looks like it's not available anymore. I think I got it when they were trying to unload them, because I bought it for more than half off. The main camera looks great, but it had a lithium battery that started to bloat almost immediately. I literally just ripped it out and it's worked great since - except for the timestamp. All in all, I'd say it's a pretty nice cheap-piece-of-crap.
If you can't find a convenient accessory socket that turns off when the car is shut off, add an in-line switch. Single pole, single throw (SPST). Here is a quick example off of Amazon. Not recommending this in particular, just a quick example from a search.
Got it last October and I was a little nervous about the temperature as well so I got a cheaper one. I think the built-in speaker is a little bad but other than that it records video and audio just like new!
I've never found a triple channel cam. The best I can suggest is buying a dual channel camera and a second camera for the missing third channel.
- This one for the front and cabin
- And this one for the rear.
Even if there are triple channel ones, they are so few that you're really limiting yourself; so you'd best be sure that it overrides any other features.
Try using the MXPlayer app to review videos. We have had other users experience the exact same issue and it was not the dongle they where using. This should resolve your issue.
Thinkware Customer Support.
but, they are just providing 16GB SD card, is it still a good deal ? do I need 2 SD cards for this or just one ? Also, is the "Power Magic Pro" recommended ?
I received an alert from camelcamelcamel that it is available for $234 from a 3rd party seller, but when I click on it, I could not find anything :(
128GB SanDisk Ultra microSD Memory Card $32
128GB SanDisk Extreme MicroSD Memory Card $50 + free s/h
You are welcome.
A capacitor one is recommended for sure. Will be more reliable in weather extremes. If you want a recommendation for a dashcam I suggest the A118C (the C denotes capacitor) because it is so easy to install, is small and stealthy, is reliable and it is not expensive. It's the type of 'appliance' that you can 'set and forget' requiring minimal maintenance. You can get it in the US or from China, it's cheaper from China.
Here you can have a look at the A118C :
And here is a small sample from mine to show you the video quality :
Switching dashcams between cars on a daily basis, although not hard, may become bothersome after a while, and we all have moments of forgetfulness.
I would respectfully suggest that with help of family members, friends, or organisation, that you try to get one for each car. Right now you can pick up a super deal on a G1W-C high definition dashcam for $41.36.
Having one in each car will bring peace of mind, and will be one less thing to have to remember. And later, if you get your own car, you can install one on the front and one on the rear, and you will be well covered.
Here is a link for the dashcam: http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_67201.html
Wrong. If it is a strong enough downpour to think you need hazards - pull over. Driving with hazards on is illegal in many states.
I use DaVinci Resolve. It’s a professional-grade video production tool, and it’s free. The company makes its money selling pro video production gear, so they give the software away to build loyalty.
You’ll probably want to spend a bit of time watching video tutorials on how to use it, but it’ll be time well spent.
> if I can't remove the audio
You can remove the audio. There are tons of different ways to do it. If you have no idea what to do, use Handbrake to convert the video file. Use the High Quality preset, then go in the Audio options and remove all audio tracks.
Quick google search:
GoPros can have scripts to control things. I'm sure it can be done with some knowledge and reading.
I use a gopro3 for my motorcycle helmet cam, and use the wifi remote that is dual-locked to my handle bars.
I have an A118 and have not had to touch it since I installed it unless I wanted to check the vid, then I just take the sd card inside. The cam stays put.
Currently $53.79 at http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_142025.html
I've had no probs with it at all.
The problem with a lot of these dashcams is that you can potentially get a knockoff, or a lower model labeled as the higher model.
If you want to buy a Mini 0805, check out GearBest (no affiliation.) They have a sale on now and you can get the 0805 GPS model for a very reasonable price. If the sale expires in the future, use coupon code GB0805 at checkout to get a further discount (but don't apply it now, because it will increase the price.)
This is a reputable dealer among dashcam users.
Don't get that. It's probably one of the old Novatek chips that record upscale 1080p, and the quality is awful. It also looks pretty cheap from the get-go.
Just pay $2 more and get a G1WH
Gearbest is running a sale on the G1WH for about $35, might wanna get it while you can.
Oh, it's not a problem. I don't mind helping at all.
Make sure your adapter fully goes in all of the way into the socket. The majority will flare out which will not let the adapter to go in all of the way. This is a known problem with the VIOFO adapters. Look at the distance it goes in between your car and your dad's car.
You can try downloading the AccuBattery APK here and installing it if you still want to try it. It's a good app and nice to have.
Here's what I would do in this order:
1) check the voltage at the fuse.
- I don't know how you couldn't get the voltage using the testing points on the fuse. Obviously your probe(s) weren't making contact or not good enough. Pull the fuse (use needle nose pliers or a fuse removal tool, NOT a screwdriver) and check the voltage of the metal holder in the fuse box (only one side will have power since the fuse completes the circuit).
2) recheck the voltage of the socket. If you are 100% sure it is correct (10V) then either the socket is bad or there is a voltage drop between your fuse and socket.
3) Test the power wire going directly into the socket. To easily get a reading use a small needle to stick into the jacket of the wires. If the voltage of the wire is good then then you probably need a new socket. You can also test the ground for the socket as well.
*As I previously recommended get a Power Magic Pro to hard wire it in. I promise it is worth every penny! The VIOFO adapter won't fit due to what I stated earlier so you either need to modify the socket or get an adapter that will fit.
Format the card with SDFormatter. Perform the full overwrite, not the quick format. After SDFormatter, format again in the dash camera.
What firmware are you on?
I unfortunately do not know either, however if you would like to use my referral code feel free to click here https://rumble.com/register/danknissan/ or enter "danknissan" while signing up.
Thank you and feel free to PM me your videos when you upload :) would love to check yours out!
Yeah, the fewer adapters between the card and your PC the better. This one is pricier than some of the others but works with every SD and micro SD I use with it.
I don’t re-format my card regularly because I’m always yanking it to get video off of it. I did put in a Samsung 128 gb evo card that works flawlessly in the Blueskysea dv988, Viofo dashcam, and dji mavic mini. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0887GP791/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've had this one for 9 years, still going strong
Extech MN35 Digital Mini MultiMeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VWR20?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And one like this from a big orange store
Hi-Spec 176 Piece Wire Stripper, Crimper & Cutter with Box Set of Ring, Bullet, Spade, Fork Connectors & Terminals for DIY Installation of Home Electrics, Lighting & Sound Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NB9EEKJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_440H3J25BC3SDZ09ZNGD
I have the viofo A119v3 and I bought the viofo hardwire kit with it. The viofo hardwire kit comes with a battery sensor and you have 4 settings that will turn the camera off when your battery reaches the point you have selected.
VIOFO HK3 ACC Hardwire Kit for A129, A129 Plus, A129 PRO, A129 IR, A119V3, Enables Parking Mode, Low Voltage Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZGM9LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_36CJ0HXNK5Y4C3V1PMM3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> Does it matter what size SD card I get?
16 GB rather small. 32 GB works. 64 GB better.
> I know that the b1w supports up to a 64gb card, but I'm not sure if there is a need to go that big because of the looping feature.
The difference between a MLC based Endurance card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B98GXQT/?th=1
32 GB card ($8 USD)
64 GB card ($13 USD)
like 5 bucks?
You save almost as much money by applying the: "Save an extra 6% when you apply this coupon." On the amazon link.
Going smaller might have been a thing when Micro SD cards kept going up in price, but they have been falling in price for a while now.
> Also, does every card need to be formatted on a computer first before being inserted into the camera?
Nope. Format inside dash cam every time you insert it into the dash cam is best practice.
> I was considering getting the Viofo A129 Duo Plus. However, I read many reports online about it having a lot of bugs/issues.
A129 Plus Duo - Excellent build quality, Excellent Video quality, Good Parking mode (with flaw).
Parking mode - VIOFO does a lot of firmware updates, sometimes they fix bugs, sometimes they add bugs, other time they fix some bugs but add more bugs. It takes them a little time to be perfect.
> Or should I just go with a non plus version and call it a day since I do not really need higher resolution?
Build quality - How long will this dash cam last? 3-6 months? 5+ Years?
Video quality - Google: dash cam name + Sample footage - Look for Day/Night/Shadow footage, try to read plates, look for flaws.
Parking mode - Automatic Engage/Disengage when parked or Manual? Buffered/Not Buffered? Low Voltage Cut Off Feature?
Are the 3 main attributes of a dash cam. How you prioritize these 3 attributes really up to you.
If you want something that does WiFi/Cellphone app correctly:
Compare the sample footage to A129 Plus Duo, and make your choices.
It's a hardwire kit. Literally just plugging the camera into a spare fuse, preferably one that is always on in order to use parking mode.
I swear I am not a dashcam salesman 😂
Thanks for the help! I managed to find this 4 camera setup that should work perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X5BH2P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9PCJ5ZJZXJBR7HZG9EEH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A bit pricey but reasonable for what you get
> B2K model
Swivel cam - Not Discreet - Attracts attention of: Police, Thieves, Other drivers, your passengers.
Looks like a camera - Causes people to want to touch it/play with it/disable it/remove micro SD card from it.
Suction cup - Loses suction in heat. Loses suction in cold. Becomes a maintenance issue.
These are enough that I am not interested in continue this review of the dash cam.
I did not rate: Build quality, Video quality, Parking mode.
VIOFO A129 Plus Duo - From Dashcamtalk
The A129 Plus offers 2 parking mode options (when hardwired to your vehicle):
Time Lapse Recording at 1fps, 2fps, 3fps, 5fps or 10fps. While parked, the camera will be always recording at the low fps but no audio is recorded.
Low Bitrate Recording at approx 4Mbps will always record when parked and audio is recorded
While VIOFO does a much better job for parking mode than other Chinese cameras, they are not at the same level as the Korean cameras (Blackvue, Thinkware, etc). Many of the VIOFO complaints we see on our forum relate to parking mode issues.
Known Problems: Buffered Parking Mode
Note that some owners indicate that the buffered parking mode does not work reliably. The camera will stop recording or crash during this mode. Until a firmware update is provided, we suggest using timelapse or low bitrate parking mode instead.
Anyways, VIOFO takes some time to sort out their firmware. So keep an eye out for updates, and read the patch notes. As well as where the old change logs/old firmware versions: Viofo A129 Firmware - From captureyouraction.
VIOFO does Video quality well. - Sometimes improved over time via firmware updates.
VIOFO does Build quality well. - Firmware is not always a forward progression, lots of ups, and downs with bug fixes, adding new bugs, adding new features, improving old features, ect. - It takes VIOFO time to sort it all out.
VIOFO does Parking mode - Generally well. A129 Plus Duo is weak on parking mode at the moment, but most people don't hardwire the dash cam anyways.
Everything else is a bell and whistle and does not make a bad dash cam good, nor a good dash cam bad. - Speaking of which: VIOFO WiFi/Cellphone app - is the standard Buggy/Annoying of almost all dash cam manufacturers.
From an electronics installation point of view, do not use those types of quick connects. They damage the wire over time and can mess with electrical circuits. They slice the conductor.
Best to use butt connectors with the heats shrink tubing.
VIOFO A139 3 channels: (Front/Left/Right) or Rear.
No I don't know if it is good or not, it is too new to know.
Dash cam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = Cost
Front/Interior = Uber cam:
>> Taxi/Uber Cam:
>> B2W IR 2CH ($140 USD)
>> VIOFO A129 IR 2CH ($160 USD)
>> Zenfox T3 3CH ($250 USD)
>> Viofo A139 3CH ($270 USD)
>> BlackVue DR590X IR 2CH ($280 USD)
>> BlackVue DR750S IR 2CH ($400-450 USD)
>> BlackVue DR750 IR 2CH LTE ($450 USD) LTE Cloud
>> BlackVue DR900X 2CH IR ($490USD)
What I would get:
B2W ($140 USD)
Why do you want to record Front and Interior of the vehicle though? Uber driver?
A129 offers 3 options to record when parking if you hardwire the camera. The 3 options are:
Buffered Parking Mode: When a moving object is detected while parking, a video is recorded for 45 seconds (15 second before the event to 30 seconds after the event.
The A129 Duo can be hardwired with a 2-wire or 3-wire kit. With the 2-wire kit, parking mode is entered after 90 seconds with no motion. Parking mode is exited when G-sensor is triggered or average GPS speed is greater than 8 KM/H.
With the 3-wire kit will enter and exit parking mode based on the Accessory (ACC) signal switching on and off. The 3-wire kit is the better choice to switch between driving and parking mode.
While VIOFO does a much better job for parking mode than other Chinese cameras, they are not at the same level as the Korean cameras (Blackvue, Thinkware, etc.). Many of the VIOFO complaints we see on our forum relate to parking mode issues.
It's a ROAV Dashcam A1 made by Anker. I paid $55.99 back on July 19, 2019 from Amazon.
Here's the link, it's now $38.99. It has excellent night vision.
I see there's also a newer model available for $73.99.
That's the one I used. Very easy to install, works like a charm. You have to get a little creative with the wire routing, but you can hide almost all of it behind the weather strip and some of the interior panels. I have my cam hidden right behind my rearview, and if I need I connect my phone to it to download any footage after an incident. It's set in park mode as well, so it loops 3 minutes of recording until something bumps into my vehicle, then saves it as an event on the SD card. Then I connect to the cam with my phone and download the video. I don't think you even need to hardwire it if you don't want to use park mode.
Found this post in a search because I am worried about off-brand ones as well. Is this the apple one you got?
Rexing Smart Hardwire Kit Mini-USB Port for Rexing V1 V1P WiFi Version V3, V5 and S1 Dash Cams… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN24B7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GQBQ3HZ9PST5A5JW01VX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No it doesn’t - we’ve searched AND gone thru the booklet. I heard somewhere that they stopped including the cigg lighters in the newer cars. I may be wrong thought.
We did a mini usb but that way you can’t use the GPS that’s attached to the cord attached to the 12v thingy
I’m currently looking at ‘digit.tail 5V USB (bunch of words converter - link
Digit.Tail 5V USB to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Female Converter Adapter for Video Recorder/Cameras, DVR, Dash Cam, GPS, Car Air Purifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MW92H8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E9C3XYNN1WF0DSRYRNFP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've tried a bunch of cameras including Rexing and Viofo but my and my family's personal favorite is Jomise dual dash cam. It's $100 plus 20% off on Amazon. It has a reliable app, and it's very easy to take pictures as you just wave your hand under it and a bunch of other features. It's actually better than the $250 camera I tried. It also has a magnetic mount so it's very easy to take the camera in and out of the car if you want to. I live in a high heat area so I bring the camera in to protect it and it's much easier to do with this camera.
If you're able to, measure your car's battery voltage. It should be over 12.5v while the car is turned off.
When you turn off the car, for several minutes afterwards, there can be some circuits still drawing power. Shut off the car with the hood up and lock the car. Walk away and come back 10 minutes later. Measure hte voltate across the battery using a cheap tester.
A healthy battery should be around 12.5ish
If your camera is draining the battery too far, you might want to change it to take power from a source that cuts out when you shut off the car.
Get yourself a set of the PIAA 85115 horns. They are a lower, louder tone than typical horns and really grab people's attention.
You could also do it yourself in about 5 mins with something like this (also get the right angle short usb cables in the frequently bought together section). It just plugs into the powered mirror.
Nice, I think I found Spytec version by searching A119 on Amazon...kinda tempted to try it out.
There is a new dashcam + GPS combination introduced this year called the Garmin DriveAssist 50 LMT. It is available on Amazon for $279.
If you have a dashcam that is plugged into a lighter socket that stays powered even after you turn off the ignition, your dashcam will keep on recording (stays on).
If you have a lighter socket that only gets power when the ignition is turned on, as most cars do, the dashcam will turn on and off whenever you start and stop the engine. If you wanted the dashcam to stay on in this case, you would have to have it wired up directly to the car's electric circuit, a process referred to as hardwiring and which your local garage can do for you.
If you like the G1W-CB the more reliable vendor on Amazon would be this one: https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-G1W-CB-Capacitor-120%C2%B0/dp/B00YZ5G2GC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1471175151&sr=1-4&keywords=G1W-CB
As for the capacitor, think of it a specialized battery that can withstand hot and cold temperatures much better than a battery, and it has a much longer lifespan.
Found this on Amazon for about $125: https://www.amazon.com/Tracking-Device-Cellular-Carrier-Locator/dp/B008980K78
Since you know the vehicle so well you could probably find a good place to hide it that thieves won't find immediately.
Personally, for the amount of time, money, and sentimental value in the vehicle, I'd drop the $1k for a professional solution.
Stick to sold by Amazon or spytec others are hit and miss on genuine units.
This is the one I ran for a while
C is capacitor = no battery
H is less chrome so it blends better
Thanks! I've seen that before, but it doesn't get very good reviews on Amazon so I think I might go for one like this