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In addition to the Club, I stick one of these on my Civic every night:
I mean sure, it's definitely defeatable, but I figure to steal the car now:
1) Dude has to bring a battery-powered angle grinder, and sit there for 8-10 minutes, while sparks fly and the noise wakes everyone up.
2) Then, he has to break into the car.
3) THEN he has to cut the steering wheel, to remove the club, if he's halfway intelligent. If he's an idiot, then he'll try to defeat the club directly.
4) Then, he has to steal the car as normal.
By that time, I will have called 911, and I'd be there myself, with a can of bear spray, and a section of pipe.
What have I overlooked here?
I bought a fiber optic kit off of amazon. Removed the headliner. Removed all the insulation and plastic from the top of it and drilled 500 holes in it. Glued the 500 strands of fiber optics in and put the headliner back in. I router the main cable through the back pillar and to the trunk and used an extension cord and power converter to power it. In total it was about 15 hours of work, but 100% worth it.
If I had to do it again I would re-cover the headliner with new fabric so I don’t have to see the holes in the ceiling during the daytime if the lights are off.
CHINLY 16W RGBW Twinkle 28key RF... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016WJF5P2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
300W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K25F64S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sales are low because supply is low. Call around or check cars.com and most dealers are sold out of the 2015 fit. Most fits are sold before they arrive at the dealer too (presold). It's just a safety improvement that was done during design but the weld was not right at the factory.
The "recall" is also not a recall. Consumer Reports got it right:
"Honda is not calling this update a recall, because it is not related to any government testing or legal requirements." http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/08/upgraded-2015-honda-fit-gets-best-crash-score-in-class/index.htm
In other words: Honda saw a production flaw and is fixing it to protect their customers. Props to Honda.
Use the Genuine Honda fluid. They have one for auto and one for manual. Call each dealership parts department in your area for pricing, should be about $8/qt.
Amazon has it for $9/qt delivered.
Honda Genuine Fluid 08200-9008 ATF-DW1 Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089LSMSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2wD2BbXRA4DJY
it might just be the angle of the photo but the headlights look like they could use restored, I have had good luck with this before
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https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY
Oh wow. I will definitely call as soon as they wake up over on the West Coast.
EDIT: 14 Automakers affected, daaaaamn. This article lists all vehicles involved.
Engine: https://www.sugarsync.com/piv/D700241_7511151_890153
Front View: https://www.sugarsync.com/piv/D700241_7511151_890124
I was not a fan of the yellow on the wheels either. However, with the 4 sets of wheels that came with it (in white and black) that particular set was the only one with tires on them, so I decided to run them until they wore out.
It was a World Challenge car in a previous life, but I only used for track days (no racing).
I also realize that the Yellow Type-R's are not for everyone, but while I towed it around to tracks I got nothing but compliments on it.
Lastly, those of you who are sad to see areal type "R" chopped up... this car was bought from an insurance company as a total loss flood vehicle. It was either this or the scrapyard. I would pick this any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
I hated how the yellow light from my halogens clashed with the white LED fogs. Decided to try some LEDs I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNBDWPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Cxv.ybHXZNM1P
They work great in the projectors and produce plenty of light on the road compared with the halogens. They also don't seem to have any shadowing issues I've ran into with HID kits in the past.
Clutch AutoLock like this.
Also a removable steering wheel. That's about all you need to slow down 85% of Honda thieves. If they really want it, they'd have to tow it at that point.
And assuming you get an alarm installed by a shop, go back in and try to tuck the alarm unit up deep into the dash. And then try hiding the wires from there.
Honda hybrids aren't doing very well vs Prius. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/02/honda-civic-hybrid-battery-reliability-gets-worse/index.htm
This would give them a leg up on Toyota if they brought it here (US). Would be interesting to see what happens!
Those are bumper quick releases, It's a JDM thing but a lot of guys break the tabs holding the edge of the bumpers on: Like this from amazon
This is the EX-L model - Sports come with the middle exhausts but all of the hatches have hidden dual exhausts - I added some tips I got from Amazon.
HID is useless without a proper projector. You'll have to retrofit or upgrade the headlights to do this and it's going to be far more than $20 a side. Anyone who says "convert to HID" without telling you to add projectors has no idea as to what they're talking about.
It looks like your car uses 9006 bulbs so find some high quality halogen bulbs and restore your lenses. It looks like all premium halogens are basically the same so pick something in the $20-$25 range that you can find locally. Halogens get dimmer as they get older so replacing the bulbs and cleaning the haze from your lenses will do quite a bit. Don't switch to HID without projectors unless you like pissing people off.
I also have an 06 6-6 coupe. Mine went into 3rd gear fine most of the time but would pop out sometimes when I was giving her the beans. Sometimes it wouldn't go into 3rd when shifting at redline etc.. It's a pretty common problem that was easily solved by changing the trans fluid. Fresh OEM fluid usually works for people but thre is no guarantee if you have a bit of syncro wear. Using a friction modified synchromesh fluid is the answer.
Most of us from the forums use this: ACDelco 10-4014 Friction Modified Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (after I switched it fixed everything and never popped out or refused to go in at any temp or rpm again - it's been 6 years now and it still shifts perfectly)
Others have confirmed that Pennzoil synchromesh, RedLine Synchromesh, and Amsoil Synchromesh all work great too.
Cheap easy dirty way, get an adapter kit to fit onto the R12 service ports. Pull a vacuum on the system and hope that there are no leaks. If there are leaks find and repair them. Next, charge the system up with R134a. If you need to add oil to the system, use Ester oil.
The proper way and preferred way, disassemble the whole A/C system and flush it out with cleaner. You'll need about 2 quarts of system flush to clean everything. Next, remove as much of the old oil as possible from the compressor buy flipping it upside down and allowing the oil to drain out of the inlet and outlet ports.
Some parts I recommend getting new, condensor, receiver/dryer, o-ring, and expansion valve. These components can clog up easily due to the small orifices.
Once all the components are cleaned, install your o-rings, reassemble the system, pull a vacuum to check for leak and remove the moisture. No leaks, recharge the system with PAG oil and R134a to the proper amounts.
Here's some food for thought, if LED bulbs actually perform much better than halogen bulbs, based on what sellers claim, +270% brighter than stock, wider beam pattern, better driving vision, Super-Focused Light output, etc., etc.
How come car manufacturers don't make and sell their own LED bulbs? They could easily up sell them in the dealership or just outright replace them in all of their cars, couldn't they? Why go through the trouble of designing a completely new headlight unit just for LEDs?
This Mishimoto radiator?
https://www.mishimoto.com/acura-integra-aluminum-performance-radiator-94-01.html
Which is also the same exact one like this one except it doesn't have Mishimoto spray painted on it?
https://amazon.com/dp/B00S70WWRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_56PCJMS79GQSTZCVRKCD
Not standard no, but I think they make the car look a little more sporty.
Ah, you have the navigation headunit. What you'll need is a bluetooth transmitter like what is commonly used to connect an older home stereo to bluetooth headphones. Your car stereo would act as the headphones, paired to the transmitter, and your rider would plug the 3.5mm into their phone to play the music.
You can get milled aluminum shift boot collars for less than $10. Cool part but not really worth it unless you're doing it just for the sense of accomplishment and to learn.
Bought sequential LEDs off Amazon.
The kit came with pins on the wires, so it was fairly easy splicing everything together. Just had to test connections to each headlight component before committing.
For the strip itself, it came with an adhesive strip, so I just stuck it on the top of my headlight, but I will probably apply a stronger adhesive this weekend.
Unfortunately, my car is old, so the DRLs are halogen bulbs, which when connected to LEDs, cause them to flicker because to keep the bulb dim, it jumps between a low and high volt level. So had to buy a separate capacitor to fix it, which I still need to install.
Google recently (early in December) updated the Google Maps app. One of the casualties was turn-by-turn info being passed to the car's infotainment unit for display on the instrument panel.
That's the bad news. Here's the good news.
1) Google knows about it, and has replied they're looking into it (many - I imagine all - makes of cars have been reported to have been affected).
2) There's a reasonable work-around for the time being:
Go to the Play store and make sure app updates for Google Maps are turned off, so the app won't just update itself after the following steps.
On your Android phone, use the Apps section of the Settings app to find the Google Maps app and uninstall all updates, to return it to the version shipped with your version of Android. This may be all you need to do, unless you want to go ahead and update it to the last-known-good version of Google Maps.
If you want to side-load a newer version of Google Maps that doesn't have the bug, go to the website APKMirror.com and search for an older version of Google Maps. I have included a link to the version I have installed on my Galaxy S8+ phone, and it works fine with my Honda's infotainment system for turn-by-turn.
https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/maps/maps-10-4-1-release/
Please note there will be different variants of this version, depending on the CPU architecture of your phone. I just used the Universal one, which I believe contains binaries for all known CPUs. It works fine for me.
As for my conclusion about replacing the A/C compressor? I really only went by the fact that you said it was vibrating, and had diagnosed the problem yourself. I assumed this post was you asking if it would be fine to remove the belt and not worry about the compressor until summer. As for my conclusion about the heat still working without the belt on the compressor, I have had a del sol down to the bare shell and replaced the entire air duct system.
http://tinypic.com/r/33kvcl2/8
Edit - Don't mind the mess, the car sat on an Ohio farm for quite a while. Dust is brutal there. The entire thing has been thoroughly cleaned and put back together.
Consumer Reports has a negative view of extended car warranties. They know their stuff. The problem is PRACTICALLY EVERYONE that buys an extended warranty is OVERPAYING.
I understand that Honda spent a lot of time designing and testing everything in the car and sells it to you with a factory warranty that will cover design defects. Case in point: My 2003 Honda Civic has not had a problem in the 12 years I've owned it, except for the airbags, which were covered by Honda.
It's a very cheap part. A few dollars. Your dealer or local autoparts store should have it or an interchangeable part. Salvage yard is an option as well. It's basically replacing a screw/plug.
It looks like you are right about 2016 Fit/HRV not having android auto (https://www.android.com/auto/honda/).
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For the first couple months, my Civic and Galaxy S9 refused to work together, but now, a couple phone updates later, it's working as intended. I wouldn't say it's all that great though. Displaying on the "big" screen is nice, but that's about it. The number of Apps that can display on the infotainment screen is very limited. They prevent you from scrolling while driving, have reduced functionality, etc.
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Before, I clipped my phone to the dash and connected via bluetooth. Some days I still do. Then you can whatever you want.
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Getting a used car is the rational choice, but that doesn't mean it's the right choice for you. I didn't need those 18" rims but I don't regret it one bit :)
Here's mine. https://www.flickr.com/photos/88919502@N06/ -I haven't put up any work in some time though.
You have some great work! You should get back into it!!! I see you also do graphic designing too, that's pretty awesome. I dabble with it here and there putting photo packages together, otherwise I got a free lance designer I use.
I am a Photographer working towards an Engineering degree and I take some photo classes here and there. Otherwise I am trying to get my own business for Photography going with my brother.
Also- the photo across the top of my Flickr page is of the Honda Marysville Auto Plant where I work part time building the Accord!
I think it will compete well with the Ford Explorer. It has a lot of the same features, plus more. On a side note, does anyone know what happened to Apple CarPlay?
Happened to me in a strange area. Put my boyfriends gift to use and has been helpful since. Nice to have a portable jump start in the car.. never know when the battery will die.
You need a retrofit kit like InterDynamics
This will allow you or a mechanic to service and refill the system with R-134a.
What you need are Lock Fasteners. There are varies sizes and some are made for left or right doors only. Just double check that you have the correct one.
If your original headlights are fogged up, I would try a headlight restoration kit to make them crystal clear again.
Check out Crutchfield.com for your audio needs. Depending what you currently have in your car, you may need a dash kit. I also highly recommend getting a wire harness adapter instead of cutting the old connector off.
CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0_50ml Kit w/Reload - Ceramic Coating Finish, Quartz Based Nanotechnology, Bonds to Paint, Glass, Metal and Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4NXNTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X5T20TBH5PNW31DG2AC5
Used this on my 370 after doing a paint correction & it still looks great two years later.
It's $200 for the kit which includes the water pump. Then the whole front of the engine has to come off including the crank pulley. Typically if you have to pay someone to do it, it's an $800-1200 job.
I think you're thinking about the accessory belt which is $20. It the timing belt breaks you can typically kiss the motor goodbye. At the very least the heads will have to be rebuilt.
https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKH-002-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYTRE/
Ok, not quite 200.
The 4 banger uses a timing chain which typically lasts the life of the engine.
If you want to be super lazy then just buy brand new vtec solenoid plugs and wire those in. I got some for $10 that worked great.
But I would think repairing the plug you have would be better as you wouldn't have to cut and crimp anything like above. From what you said the wire just pulled out of the plug right?
I used these below theyre really easy to install and USB as well so I can still use my car charger. The quality was great on these and I tucked all the wires so none of it shows.
Yes Walmart has a few kits. If you have a drill get the one that has a buffer that 'plugs?' into your drill. Much easier than doing it completely by hand. And the UV protectant is important or the housings will haze up in a month or two. I went with 303 aerospace protectant that I found on Amazon for <$10.
Here's the link: 303 (30307) Aerospace Protectant Trigger Sprayer, 10 Fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8NKGSG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-tPgwbXV9ATE5
EPAuto Premium Travel Pal Car Seat Organizer Storage Bin, Drink Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RX3752/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jp2tzb29XJMZZ
Try this it could work
or search on amazon. Car storage
I use Lasfit LED bulbs for low beam without issue for a few months now in my 2015 civic si. Way better than oem and not $150 like some others you see. Reviews are very good on amazon. see them here
Edited for typo.
Amazon link is now up to $180. Mine was $160 and $176 after tax and what not so we're in the same ballpark.
By comparison, their site has it for $240. https://www.mishimoto.com/honda-civic-turbo-baffled-oil-catch-can-2016.html
The stock white on 2012s is called "Taffeta white." There are some off brands for it on Amazon as well if you want prime shipping or a different application method, but that's the official Honda stuff. I don't know how true it is, but I've heard some people say to dispense the first bit of it onto a paper plate or piece of cardboard or something and keep going until the color matches the color of your paint and then apply it. Apparently the first bit can be a little darker or lighter than the rest? Good luck!
The front guards were very easy to install, all you needed to do was screw in 3 screws without taking off any wheels.
The back ones were still easy but I had to take off the wheels because I couldn’t get a screwdriver between the wheel and rear fender.
All in all, it took me about 3 hours to install all four. When I got one side done, the other was much easier. I called my dealer and asked them how much it costs for INSTALL only and they said 84.00 so I just did it on my own. Well worth it in my opinion.
Here’s the link on Amazon where I bought the splashguards: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACQBE1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G2jsBbVXE82TK
Here’s a link to the instructions for installing the splashguards on the Honda eStore: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/AI/AH/AII52261/enu/AII52261.pdf
EDIT: On Amazon they are listed for 89.99 currently, a few weeks back I got them for 74.99 so the price seems to fluctuate.
I actually bought the decal off of amazon here I wanted to get a more custom one but I was looking at upwards of $60 and just settled on this one! Haha
Not sure where you're shopping, I used amazon and on there you can tell amazon what car you have and it does a surprisingly good job of finding parts that fit your car if you filter for it. I'll check what they have that fits a 99 integra LS.
edit: 4 door or 2 door, and auto or manual?
second edit: assuming 2 door and manual for now. Found a Spec D catback for $130, but only fits a 2 door.
Thanks! They're DEPO projector headlamps, I got these to run LEDs with a proper cutoff shroud.
I feel your pain! I researched for hours until I realized how neglected the 8th gens were and did it myself. But freal, all I did was slap the LEDs on top haha. Here's the link to the LED Strips I bought. And here is the tutorial.
This is my first car and I'm young and dumb so I don't trust myself with other peoples cars lol. Since we do have the same gen, if you want pictures of how I attached and wired everything, msg me and I'll be happy to help!
I got those on amazon
Pair of Black Housing Amber Corner Headlight Assembly Lamps Kit Replacement for Honda Civic EJ EK EM 99-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISJX7W8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4M8cFbVYB6A8J
(My review is on there too lol)
I dont know what it was with these ports failing, but its a common issue. Its an easy fix, get a THIN flathead screw driver and wedge it behind the housing, and pop it out. It has little tabs that need to be pressed in, and once you get the one side, you can do the other and then it pops right out. I changed mine out in less than 2 minutes.
I must link these paint sealants for your application Collinnite 845 and Collinnite 476 These actually last I personally use 476 on all vehicles in house and ones i detail and i dont have a garage so all 3 cars are outside and in 74F sun,
it lasts 8+ months of heavy beads only thing that beads better imo is glass coatings Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info lolol:D
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZWMNWU
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Looks great! I mounted a Tab 2 into my 07 accord about three years ago. I did not make it as permanent as yours. I used isimple like device and bought a Spiderpodium. I just opened up the door on the compartment under the existing radio that is behind shifter. I then jammed the Spiderpodium in there and molded it to the inside and put my tab in it. The power and the 3.5 mil cables go right behind the tab and into the isimple like thing. It looks like is was made for it!
Decided to finally change the speakers in my '08 Fit. Looked around for tutorials and instructions, thankfully found details here and there. Here is a very, maybe even too detailed description of how to do it. if you have any questions, feel free to comment and ask. Will try to answer to the best of my ability.
The speakers I replaced the stock ones with were these polk audio DB651, http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-6-5-Inch-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00MI53PF2/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1429136429&sr=1-4&keywords=db651
I also used a wiring harness off of crutchfield to prevent splicing wires. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120727800/Metra-72-7800-Speaker-Wiring-Harness.html
Yeah the light there you can reset, it's just a reminder that it needs an oil change pretty much. As for the brake light, I see that you have a coupe. Replace all brake lights and it will go away. I had mine on for a year til someone told me the two outer brake lights didn't light up, only the two from the trunk did. Swapped all four out and the light went away.
1) Drain/fill transmission fluid every 30k is worth it. I rather pay for the transmission oil every 30k than a new transmission. Btw, transmission oil drain/fill is less messy than engine oil.
2) Flush brake fluid - 3yrs or so.
3) Check your brake also when you get the brake fluid flush, see how much you have left on the pads.
4) Fill up windshield wiper fluid
5) Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N4WKJMT and watch out for your battery, it is better than getting stranded if your battery dies.
I model all my wiring after the way Honda did it. A twist of electrical tape around the loose wires, covered by a sheath with more tape over that.
https://www.amazon.com/GS-Power-Split-Loom-Tube/dp/B07R3RQNQ9/
Loose wires are just asking for trouble. I've used those heat shrink type joins. They work pretty well. It takes a bunch more heat than you might expect to get the solder to really flow.
I use different than stock electrical tape color so I know where I messed with the harness.
Your muffler is deformed. But if you are fine with that, you can get a universal exhaust finisher for cheap. Or just pull it off entirely. Many cars don’t have them. https://www.amazon.com/Dsycar-Universal-Stainless-Exhaust-Muffler/dp/B0755CKHFV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1F23GK56PGVUY&keywords=exhaust%2Bfinisher%2Baccord&qid=1670346902&sprefix=exhaust%2Bfinisher%2Baccord%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-4&th=1&a...
Here's the cheaper option.
This option allows you to maintain functionality with the stock control panel for heat and ac only. The radio effectively and essentially is now all through your new deck. Some people don't like that option, and I agree with them, but for a price difference of $200, I chose this option as I was already spending $1500 on other sound equipment.
This is the more expensive option.
I hope that link works, but with that you get to keep your pocket, it looks better and you maintain functionality. However it is significantly more expensive and if you're already spending $200+ on a deck, that's the same price.
You have no idea what you are talking about.
A starter is not a high torque motor.
Here's a 12v 1hp electric motor rated for 100% duty cycle. $90, and it's 8in long x 4" diameter
It takes about 1hp to start a medium sized car engine.
You can type a lot but clearly lack basic understanding.
>The battery is only 1yr old,
Everyone should have a voltmeter in theri car. Get one for a 12v outlet and watch the voltage. Make sure the charging system is putting out 14+ volts with the engine running. It's also possible to have a bad battery at any age. Draining a battery 20% or more is all it takes to damage them sometimes (any waekness in the plates could cause permanent damage when they are drained, from age or manufacturing defects). Get the battery load tested (car parts store or mechanic). Even better, get one of these yourself, I have [one of these] )(https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40510A-Volt-Battery-Tester/dp/B07B3R4TS6). The battery does need to be fully charged to test it (another thing the volt meter will show).
No it doesn't, state of charge is how much it's charged. Health is how much the plates are sulfated. That's why you measure with a device like this $30 device that is what I'm saying should be built into the cars electronics. I use an old school one [like this] ?"(https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40510A-Volt-Battery-Tester/dp/B07B3R4TS6/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2FYMFV0188NBM&keywords=car+load+tester&sprefix=car+load+tester%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-7) that is a simple resistor and volt meter that determines the cranking capacity, the amount of amps the battery can deliver when shorted.
If you weren't such an asshole maybe you would learn something, but you don't know shit about batteries. Any mechanic should understand how load testing works, why batteries need to be tested like this and what the results mean.
Oh no I'm talking about the car. I have a volt meter in the 12v outlet. That will tell me if something drains the battery too low or if the alternator is not charging right. I have a load tester like this one that I use to periodically test the battery. It will estimate cranking amps by how much the voltage drops when you apply a 100 amp load. When the battery ages the internal resistance increases, which causes the voltage to drop by an increasing amount when a large load is applied. So if it's a 800 cranking amp battery, and it's measuring at say 400, it's time to replace. If you monitor your battery this way you will catch it before it fails and leaves you stranded.
Smaller electronic monitors like this one don't work quite as well but they are usually sufficient. This is what I was saying could be built into the car for cheap. This one costs 30 dollars but it's a whole entire product. It works by drawing a large load very briefly in short pulses and measuring how much the voltage drops. You put in the cranking amps new and it uses an algorithm to estimate the state of the battery.
I'll add part of the problem is they use small electronic testers that measure internal resistance with quick pulses and they are not too accurate. I bought one of these older style analog load testers that draws 100 amps for 10 seconds, I think they're more likely to indicate a bad battery. You look at the cranking amps and compare it to the battery's rating. So a 3 year old battery you might expect 2/3 - 3/4. Less than that might be time for a new one.
No prob. The voltage should always be above 12 when the car is off. It will start closer to 13 and then gradually drop a little. When charging with the engine on it should be slightly over 14. I found one on Amazon with a thermometer built in too, I keep it plugged in all the time. Some also have USB ports.
u/Even_Sentence_4901
Same problem.
I have the Honda Civic 2022 Touring Sonic Gray Pearl.
I ordered one touch up pen from the Amazon, the number matches but the color is darker.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NA0OWNM/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
From the other threads it looks like 2022 Civic has a slightly different color with the same old color code.
Have you had any further luck with this?
vHave you tried a touch up pen from the Honda Dealer? I wonder if they have the updated color.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Harmonic-Balancer-Counter-Weighted-Increased/dp/B07HMS94HW&ved=2ahUKEwiw_p-s8on7AhXakokEHfYhDzsQFnoECBQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1w-z-iogaH1geTBPlHhZeo that's the weighted socket. But honestly before you order that and wait for shipping and whatnot, I would just take a stronger impact and it should have no problem zipping right off.
I just had to replace the rear upstream one on my Odyssey. Pain in the ass. Basically had to do it blind. I do have a good sensor socket though.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-47749-8-Inch-Offset-Oxygen/dp/B00GMN4D1Q
Mine looks like this.
Do you plan on storing your other wheels and tires?
I found that Amazon sells some really nifty tire covers for storage purposes, and theyre not really expensive at all, would be a perfect option if you planned on leaving your wheels out.
It might be worthwhile for you to go and have a shop, whether it be autozone or advanced auto, hook up an obd2 scanner to your car anyways. There might be a code stored, and they should be able to clear whatever is there. Its free, so its worth trying.
And if you have spare cash laying around, you should pick one up for yourself and never have to borrow someones again. I keep one in each of my cars and I find it comes in handy.
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Worst comes to worst, as mentioned, disconnecting your battery for 10-15 minutes will reset the ECU and everything else.
i just replaced both my side mirrors on my accord for $50 each. Online they are like $30 each. if not, go to your local junkyards, actually go in person and talk them down. they usually work for you.
i want to say you can probably bondo the gap and crack for $8 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Professional-Gold-Filler-12.80-oz./51688278?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3795&adid=22222222228046782087&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=90344310289&wl4=pla-279546159274&wl5=9004...
then sand it down. plastidip it.. total=$22
this is off the top of my head and im not a professional autobody person. i am a ghetto DYIer that will make something out of nothing.
You need some really powerful tools to get the crank pulley off. You might as well do the timing belt at the same time. If you just have a box of wrenches, you're not going to be able to take it off.
With my Odyssey, my air impact wouldn't touch it. I ended up getting a 5 ft long breaker bar to break that bolt loose. You'd need a special honda tool to hold the pulley when you use the breaker bar. They sell them on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Cranks-Crankshaft-Removal-Engines/dp/B075YSTVC5/
Cheap Chinese bulbs. I bought some that cost over $100 (Morimoto) and they didn't fit because the base part that goes into the light housing was way to big.
You can try these Lasfit bulbs they're the best ones I've found so far. I haven't tested them as low beams, they may cause too much glare, but they do have a metal piece blocking some of the light to have a good cutoff. And they can be turned after locking into the fixture, I needed to do that on one of my aftermarket fixtures to aim it right.
it takes longer to get it out of the package then it does to put on haha
it sits right on top of the stock mirror
check out the video in this listing
I had a 94' back in the day and installed a 'high flow' cat-back exhaust, sounded exactly the same.
The muffler is the primary part in engine-noise dampening. Also, if any part of the exhaust pipe has a hole in it, it will also sound loud.
Mufflers like these will make the car really loud on acceleration. The air and sound goes strait through the muffler, making that loud noise. Some mufflers like this also amplify the sound to get that trumpet sound.
I then switched to this cat-back muffler, which reduced the noise, but offered the same performance. The muffler's bigger, so the sound bounces around inside it more before it goes out of the pipe. The more the sound bounces around in a muffler, the lower the audio level outside it. Resulting in a quieter exhaust noise.
I've used a 3M restoration kit on one car with good results. I also have had good results with TYC replacement assemblies, but these can be hit or miss depending on the model. The LED bulbs I've tried so far in my 06 Accord have not worked even though the LEDs were very small and similar in size to a halogen filament. Too much light spill shining high blinding oncoming drivers. New Lasfit bulbs have a metal piece to block some of the light to help have a normal beam cutoff but I've only tried them in my fog lights. I'm using Osram 4000k halogen bulbs, they are much more neutral white tinted and slightly brighter than stock at the cost of bulb life (expect to change them 3x more often, the same with other brands too they burn hotter).
I only have them in my fog lights but on the latest model there's a metal piece that blocks some of the light from the LEDs at a certain angle to have a normal beam cutoff.
I have a little dongle that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I stick a USB drive into it and it plays music off the USB stick through the radio. I've thrown all my blank CDR's away.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3S85FW
Then I wrote a tool that adds a random number prefix to each MP3 filename to give me "random shuffle" since the device can only play in order.
650 songs in rotation.
Good job. It's always hardest the first time. They sell special high mass crank pulley sockets to help remove them.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U/
I had to buy a 2 meter breaker bar to remove the bolt on my Odyssey.
If you do try LED bulbs try these Lasfit bulbs, they have a metal piece that blocks part of the light to keep the cutoff normal. Ive only tried them in my aftermarket fog light fixtures though, be prepared to return them.
OK good. If you have one in a tight spot you can get a ratcheting combo wrench, the ratcheting mechanism can handle a surprising amount of force. Just make sure you get a six point one.
There are cheaper options, but I did a lot of digging and most recommended was Mother's VLR.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mothers-VLR-Vinyl-Leather-Rubber/dp/B004N63S9W/
Looks like it's also in the U.S if that's where you are (looks like LHD).
What I use on my EP3 anyway. Just that and a microfibre cloth. A magic eraser if it's really stuck on and you don't go overboard as it's essentially like very fine sandpaper.
Not a crosstour but I had a car where the entire firewall was filed up and had no good place to route through. I took off the driver side fender and drilled a hole into the passenger compartment right behind the fuse box. I then uses a extended grommet to let me route wires in and seal off the outside from the inside.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-3mm-6-5mm-Waterproof-Adjustable-Locknut/dp/B08K8FB4KV/
Like this but entirely rubber.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D3S85FW
I have one of these in my van. It does Bluetooth but, I have a USB stick stuck in it. It plays music off the USB stick. I like to keep the BT turned off on my phone. That's why I use USB .
The one thing it doesn't have is random shuffle. I wrote something that added a number to the beginning of all the music files to they play in random order.
I'd check with Autozone and see if they rent then. There's not much to them.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-HW0130-Cylinder-Compression-Automotive/dp/B00SKSAB8U/
I've never used this one. Just pointing it out as an example.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4/
I love these. Ain't cheap but they're the best for thread repair.
I'd probably give it back if I could.
You have to plumb a gauge into the fuel line.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-0-140PSI-Injector-Injection-Pressure/dp/B00VV29NHM/
Using something like this.
I've done this repair a few months ago on a 2007 CRV so i'll share my experience. The main symptom for this AC repair was that the AC would suddenly stop blowing cold air after 10-15 minutes of driving (especially on a hotter day) and hot/humid air would blow no matter what you did. First thing I checked/swapped were the AC fuses and AC relay. That didnt resolve the issue so I started doing more research and determined that the AC clutch (the disc looking part on the end of the compressor) was the issue and that it'd be easier/cheaper to just replace the entire compressor.
I believe this Denso AC compressor is what you want. Denso is a reputable brand that makes many many many OEM parts for car manufacturers.
https://www.amazon.com/Denso-471-7056-A-C-Compressor/dp/B009IX32N2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2197FATLGJDYD
You'll also need to remove the refrigerant (aka freon) from the vehicle before replacing the compressor. The right way is to bring the car to a shop that can safely remove the refrigerant because this refrigerant is bad for the environment (think of global warming). There are a bunch of videos on youtube that show you step by step what you need to do and it wasn't that bad to be honest. If you have the tools, I'd give it a shot. If I were to bring it to a shop, I'd ask what compressor make/model they'd use and ask if i could buy the Denso one and just pay for labor. Also, it is a good time to replace the condensor and condensor filter since the refrigerant will be removed but that would require removing the front bumper. Send me a DM if you have more questions and I'd be happy to answer.
Inginuity Time LED Tail Lights For Honda HR-V 2016-2021 With Start Up Animation DRL Brake Sequential Turn Signal Rear Lamps Assembly (Smoke Type 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B246T4B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q68NW6889A2PPB5K4PXJ
All the guys telling you to replace the shocks to solve this...can be ignored. The shocks have nothing to do with ride height.
If the springs aren't stock, you need at least stock springs to raise it to stock ride height. If you have no money you can get wedges that force the springs to make the car higher.
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-1282-Spring-Booster/dp/B000BWAP1G/
To be clear I've never used these. I just know they exist.
I found out that Aisin has a store on Amazon and was able to get a full kit with everything, all OEM parts.. $272 next day shipping.
That is a sore dick deal, my friend, you can't beat it. You CAN NOT BEAT IT!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYUW8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Sounds like something's gone tits up with the wiring then. I'd unplug the wiring from the fans, make sure it's not touching anything and then replace the fuse again. If it doesn't blow you have a pretty good idea where the short is. Like vibration could have rubbed through the insulation.
I always wrap my wiring in split loom and electrical tape like Honda did.
https://www.amazon.com/Flame-Retardant-Polypropylene-Split-Tubing/dp/B01N44CW8O/
Did you buy a dash kit for the radio, what I mean is that the Oem is a part of the dashboard, you would need to buy a dash kit like this. To add this to your car you need to remove the old vents and climate control from the other dash and put them on the new one, you just need to remove the philips screws. I broke my air vents changing mine so be careful. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CNY5Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5T35M7NDE88DK0FGERB8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not familiar with the Accord, I'm assuming you can find some DIY videos on YouTube however for my Sis, (manual transmission) the plugs were on the side near the driver side front wheel. A funnel would have been extremely difficult if not messy. I had a hand fluid pump from Amazon with plenty of tube length and pump pump pump it was so easy to do so. I had some trouble torquing the plugs too so I ended up ordering some crowfoot wrenches and that made it a lot easier.
Here's the pump
I recently changed out the ICM within the distributor when I was having issues with the tachometer and from what I could tell that did fix the tachometer issue.
And I was reading the distributor may also be the culprit in the 3.5-4k sputtering issue I was having. I'm thinking because I didn't change the ignition coil inside of it, I should maybe go ahead and change out the entire distributor this time around in hopes it'll maybe fix my potential fuel issue and 4k rpm sputtering issue. Is this logic sound?
As for the ignition coils, I checked them about a week ago using a calterm tru-spark firing LED indicator. I'm not sure how sensitive it was though as the LED would go off when I was near any of the wires from the ignition coil. I think I'll try and do it the way the pages you posted suggest.
Friend of mine did this. Wasn't careful of the shavings and ended up screwing his engine up.
One trick is to coat the drill in grease so it picks up chips. Another us to keep a shop vac running to suck up the chips.
This guy seemed to do a good job.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TRP8756
Helicoils are fine but if it's something you take apart alot, I recommend these. It's a solid thread insert. Helicoils are best for something you put together once and don't pull back apart. Because they can pull out.
Pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch P1694 6" X 9" 300W 4-Way + P1650 6.5" 220W 2-Way Full Range Coaxial Speakers - 4 Speakers + Gravity Magnet Phone Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJF9GBR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NYRX9PTM438V7Y5Y2NKW
2 Pair Car Speaker Package of 2X Kicker CSC654 300-Watt 6.5" Inch 2-Way Black Coaxial Speakers + 2X CSC6934 450W 6x9 CS Series 3-Way Speakers - Bundle Combo with Enrock 50 Foot 14 Gauge Speaker Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1YQ8K2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_436EGRF0581T6N1RK9H9
I personally have the Rockford Fosgate speakers in my car. I didn't get this exact one but something very similar. The kickers would be another good option.
DONT BUY BOSS AUDIO! It works and they make sound, nothing quality tho, doesn't last long and doesn't take well to abuse. Aka loud music and heavy bass.