Used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Two-Step-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B01M75GUJB . Was super easy and there is enough in the kit to do another 2 full cars.
Step 1: Identify the thread diameter (M10, M8, whatever) and length required
Step 2: Hit Amazon
I modified a cheap steel table Wrangler Tailgate Table, Aluminum Alloy Black Rear Foldable Shelf for Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2017 2/4 Door, Support up to 75lb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQKS7W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3JR3TG3W34D15B0HJ2HZ And attached it to the lower arm of my rack up top- 2 vacuum pump assisted suction cups on the bottom
I would highly recommend a Mooshimeter for this. You can monitor it wirelessly, so you can just set it, wait 15 minutes, look at the logged readings, and then pull fuses one by one and see the effect. Extremely convenient. Amazon Link
Barring buying a multimeter, just pull all non-essential fuses and see how the truck does after a few days. If it's all good, put them back one by one until you see problems. If it's not all good, pull the essential systems one at a time and go from there. It could be a wiring loom issue. A variety of systems from the computers to the ABS might be powered even when the vehicle is off, and a failure in one of those could do it.
I've found a couple of different maps - each of a different quality. None of them seem very helpful.
Generally speaking, there's a long outer road that AllTrails calls the Overland OHV Loop Trail. Most everything occurs inside that outer ring.
I've found the best way to learn the Tahuya layout is to just go a few times and try the different roads. Since they all come out on that outer ring eventually, you'll start to form the layout in your head after you keep hitting the outer loop road.
Here's the exact spot on Google maps where this section is: https://goo.gl/maps/n74B4yCvzEHdP7aE9
Then you should buy this and download Torque. Get the paid version so you can read your codes, and it will give you all kinds of other live data too. It won't give you the actual land rover meaning for the code, but if you Google the code coupled with "discovery 2" (ex. "Discovery 2 P1884), you'll get a bunch of forum posts with the problems and possible solutions.
I'm not sure that these trucks even have an actual "bad MAF" code. I've never heard of one and a bad MAF is a really common problem for these trucks.
Oh, and check Amazon for those O2s. They seem to have the best price. Might save you a few dollars.
The way this works is that you get a frame and VIN that's more than 25 years old from continental Europe - this can be legally imported under the classic car exception. Then you replace all the parts and make it a 'new Defender'. Voila! Seems to be sort of a legal gray zone, I believe.
Step 2: http://www.autoscout24.com/Details.aspx?id=247966646&cd=635318804410000000&asrc=st
Step 3: Fix it up (???)
Step 4: Profit!
I found this which is a printed long sleeve shirt. It's a design that they discontinued, but if three people reserve them they'll make them again. I'd buy one.
Edit: it still says three need to reserve, so I might have to call bullshit on this one.
Doesn't necessarily come with the receiving hitch and those are like $400.
The brake controller wiring harness is pretty easy to install. I got mine here and there's a video for the install: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/YWJ500170ABP
Get a Tekonsha brake controller from Amazon and this wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NZQIDE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Finally, you need to get the Rover programmed to have a trailer. That was like $100 from a local Rover mechanic.
Yeah, you can get coolant really easily from any auto parts store. You can also get it on Amazon. This is what you should run in your truck.
However, you should not mix coolants of different colors. They'll react with each other and turn to gel, which is hard to clean and can ruin your engine. Green coolant is ultimately what you should run in the truck, as it is less corrosive than orange/red DexCool and will prolong the life of your head gaskets and other engine components. However, you'll need to do a coolant flush before you can add green if it has DexCool in it already. My vote is to check with the seller to see what's in there, and match that until you can get the car to a garage for a coolant flush. You don't want to learn on the side of the road that you bought the wrong kind of coolant.
Good luck, and enjoy the new Disco!
Pro tip... try a bluetooth to FM transmitter. I had one a while ago, and they are very convenient. The one below isn't the one I have experience with... just a generic one that popped up on amazon when I searched for it.
Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player Car Kit with Hands Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n33WBb1TZ92NK
Hmm... there really isn't a good spot for one, is there. Do you happen to live in a state that's super anal about it? Otherwise my temptation would be to say sod it and drive on. Perhaps more sensible advice would be something like this over the top of your fairlead.
One of those vent magnets mounts perfectly to the bezel (chrome part) of the AC vent above the start button. I typically just use my phone, but could certainly put an 8" tablet there.
Those little amazon battery operated fans are awesome for making airflow.
Also pick up a set of those over the door mesh things, Im pretty sure they're mostly universal.
If its really hot, I string up a hammock from the roof rack to a tree or another truck. Probably spend a little more money than that one, you get the idea.
>pentosin 11s
would either of these work?
https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1405116-Long-Life-Mercedes-Benz-Volkswagen/dp/B002WTHW26
Car Interior Air Conditioning Control Knob Cover Volume Control Knob Cover Chrome Trim for Land Rover Discovery 4 LR4 Range Rover Sport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0883GBH5J/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_HBZCN8BD3JYGYKKSK7GB
There are some chinese units that replace the factory screen, they look pretty nice, but the whole dash has to come apart and I've yet to hear from anybody that actually put one in.
Honestly, not worth the hassle. Just buy one of those phone vent mounts and call it a day.
This one mounts perfectly to the silver part of your vent:
https://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-MAGVM2-MagicMount-Magnetic-Phone/dp/B00PMOCI72?th=1
I've been using it for years. Keeps your phone withing easy reach and stays right in your line of sight for GPS etc.
I bought this as "new" but it is very far from being OEM - perhaps that's the issue:
I use a large screen android loaded with Gaiagps and car scanner. I mount it in with QR windshield mount. I point it so it looks directly forward. I use Flic smart buttonto control apps on the device including camera and video. It’s pretty quick and faster then navigating screens.
[Probably just need one of these to plug into the AV input on the front of the unit.](maxhood 3.5mm to rca av adapter cable, rca to 3.5mm mini 1/8 inch stereo male to 3 rca female (red-yellow-white) audio splitter adapter connector cable for av,audio, video, lcd tv,hdtv (av to 3.5mm, 25cm) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O9FZC6O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_J1YSDJPYY7ZDJTZR2S53?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Dang, my dealership & after market outfitter both said no for my 2017 Discovery Sport being a compatible year/model for CarPlay. And Apple doesn’t have 2017 as a compatible year. Everything else I could find online (albeit not much) also showed 2019 or newer. I’m sorry for the bad info but happy to hear other 2017s do have CarPlay!
The building and creek were along Halfmoon Gulch in Colorado: http://www.everytrail.com/guide/halfmoon-gulch-4x4-trail The three big-sky pics are from the top of Mosquito Pass Trail which also had very interesting ruins nearby: http://www.traildamage.com/trails/index.php?id=41
So the ones you mentioned are these the cleaners or the protectors? This is the one i was talking about https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Leather-Conditioner-Complete/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1FWRBSPN1JVAZ&dchild=1&keywords=leather+cleaner+for+car+interior&qid=1634142668&sprefix=Leather+cl%2Caps%2C332&sr=8-2-spons&am...
You could try a power only USB cable such as this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/kenable-Power-Charging-Cable-Extension/dp/B005HRSI3C lots of others about on the net.
This stops the phone starting any data connections to its host
Keep me in the loop on this project. Sounds promising.
Powering it should be very easy. Assuming you want it switch, locate a constant hot fuse, and use a fuse tap. This should complete your power input.
While you’re waiting on getting a ladder check these out. Might suit your use case
Rightline Gear Moki Door Step, Extra Long - Supports Both Feet, As Seen on Shark Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMTVP9N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V1SZMHDWGPZVC9B6Q9AP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this?
Versatility Teardrop Awning for SUV RVing, Car Camping, Trailer and Overlanding Light Weight Truck Canopy Durable Tear Resistant Tarp with 2 Sandbag https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZKYSCOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6KKR91C2BEKAAY6SVCJ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can also get it on Aliexpress
Link for those in the US: Working in the Wild Land Rovers Manual for Africa
This is a poor quality copy of the original shirt sold on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Disco-T-Shirt-Sticker-Discovery-Offroad/dp/B0785MZF6L
You can see someone just imported a pic of the original art into Illustrator and used autotrace to copy the logo. booooo, hisssss.
You don't need to spend money on the GAP tool, a higher-end OBDii Bluetooth adapter will do, literally, the exact same thing. I was advised by Reddit a month ago before my own cross-country trip, and I'm glad I went that route instead of the GAP tool route. Much cheaper, IMO.
For clarification, I just drove from Austin to Little Rock, back to Austin, over to LA, up to Sacramento, then back to Austin. 7,400 miles in my first 6 weeks of LR3 ownership. No problems other than brake cylinder, which needed replacing when I purchased the car ($600 for the brake shop to order the part from LR and throw it in there).
​
It will never make sense to me why anyone spends $600+ on a IIDtool from GAP when a Bluetooth dongle, properly configured, does literally the exact. same. thing. I was amazed when a Redditor told me I could reset codes AND do key programming for $70 using this tool. I was convinced by other forums I'd need to spend $500-$650 on a GAP tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y8HLS33/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To be clear, Autel isn't just generic, you have to download vehicle-specific programming from them. One model (Land Rover, should you select it) is included with purchase, then additional automaker data is available for purchase if you want to use the tool on, say, your Toyota.
Like I said, purchased an LR3 with 167k miles on Sep 4th, now have 174,5k miles on it with no codes or issues currently. Either I'm incredibly lucky, or the Autel tool is just as good as the IIDtool. Save the $500 for a new air compressor and bushings instead.
I don't have the same vehicle, but I use something similar to THIS. Basically it slides a short bit into your cd slot and holds there. From the looks of it your phone would sit in front of the clock while still leaving some room behind the phone to reach the nearby stereo buttons. There are other ones on amazon that allow a little more flexibility with the position of the phone as well.
You can easily do this yourself, there is absolutely no danger to DIYing this one. Its just a buildup of stuff on the coils. My Honda has this as a recurring problem and I clean the AC every other oil change. Plenty of kits on Amazon under $15. As a bonus it tends to help the heater too. This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S
For you guys at home shops or businesses with a smaller air compressor look into high flow fittings. I couldn’t get the pinion nut loose and changed my fittings to high flow and it came right off. Blew my mind the difference it made and it’s compatible with existing fittings. I’ve changed all of mine over.
Home Depot has them but this is a much better deal. High Flow Fittings They were cheaper when I got them @ $15 or so.
Another option are these if you just want to try it out. High Flow Fittings
Is the ABS light on by itself, or is it the 3 Amigos (ABS, Hill Descent, & TC)?
The easiest way to troubleshoot it would be to buy yourself one of these and it can tell you exactly why the light is on.
So, I was doing some research online and it seems that for "weekend warriors" a dedicated track pad might not be the best choice. It says they're pretty stiff and will eat through rotors if you try to daily drive on them.
A few forums just recommend premium brake pads rather than something super expensive.
Here's what I found: TRW TPC1479 Premium Ceramic Front Disc Brake Pad Set and TRW TPC1099 Premium Ceramic Rear Disc Brake Pad Set. I've been wanting to upgrade to ceramics to reduce the brake dust on my wheels, but it seems they'll be pretty good for the occasional track use, too.
Any thoughts on these?
I did rears recently (within the last year). I got rotors and pads here.
I'm trying to remember if the replacement rotors had locator screw holes, but I think I recall reusing the locator screws.
I don't have any complaints. I plan to do the same to the fronts when the time comes (but might buy rotors and some akebono pads for the fronts).
Alternatively if your Disco still has an original deck, ION makes a wireless Bluetooth Tape Adapter. It has a rechargeable battery that lasts about 4 hours. Sound quality is very good for $20.
I contemplated doing some modification to the sound system to rig up an Aux or Bluetooth connection but I've got enough electrical issues to deal with with out cutting wires! Looks like you know what you're doing though - nicely done.
I saw this plate on Amazon So far it look like my best current choice.
I replaced my upper radiator hose with one of these about 6 months and 15,000 miles ago. So far, it is holding up well. I also ordered an extra screw because that is what got chewed up on my last one.
Thanks for the tip – I was thinking more of these little bastards (http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Expansion-select-Discovery/dp/B001G7DO1S/ref=pd_sbs_263_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1H0B94N5ZM1X1MH095EE), but some of the other piping also looks fairly suspect.