What are /r/whatcarshouldIbuy's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

From what I just read

https://www.amazon.com/YUEBO-Bumper-Bubble-Soccer-Adults/dp/B083WBKHCQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=giant+hamster+ball+for+humans&qid=1626710437&sr=8-1

This is your best option.

But insurance should be taking care of most of these issues. Seems to me like you should get something mid range. Safe but not to expensive.

Consumer Reports consistently backs up your original bias. The top brands for reliability are Japanese and Korean. The exceptions are Buick and Audi. Notice that the lowest bracket of reliability is almost all American brands.

That said, consumer perception does seem to trail actual changes in reliability, at least in some cases. The best value right now seems to be a brand new Kia, or a few years old Hyundai. The Korean brands are super reliable but are still treated like budget brands.

I would look for Kia Souls or Honda Fits. At your price point, those are the two likeliest candidates. Both can carry tons of stuff, decent mpg, and pretty reliable. Especially if you can drive a manual transmission, but their automatics are fine too.

You should be able to find something within under 75,000 miles at that price.

I think both have Bluetooth, but if they don't, just get a Bluetooth transmitter. This is the one I use (https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B018E0I01I) and it works better than the built in version in some of my friends' cars.

I'd definitely take a look at an Audi A4. Great interior, awesome to drive, and has Audi's quattro system (although you could by with a FWD car with snow tires). Audi has been getting steadily better at reliability, and has been in CR's top 5 brands for 5+ years now.

Nice find! I recently picked up an 08 with over 200,000 miles for $500.00. The guy was the second owner (first owner was his grandma) and the car was from Arizona. I got extremely lucky, but it did need brakes, tires, alternator, spark plugs, air fliter, fluids changed and other stuff. Thankfully these cars are pretty easy to work on and should last a very long time. My AC doesn't work as well and is pretty common on this generation. It could be a simple fix (change out a switch) or more in depth.

I also changed out the stock radio for this: Amazon Android radio and so far really love the way it looks and made the car feel way more modern.

Good luck with your purchase!

I have always thought of them as a reliable brand, but I actually did a little searching to have some sources. Looks like they tend to be average to slightly above average for reliability.

http://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability/car-brands-reliability-how-they-stack-up/

Looking at those car brands, and what you want, I would veer towards a compact or sub-compact hatchback.

Some other models to take a look at:

• Mazda 3 (hatchback or sedan)
• Toyota Prius C
• Toyota Prius
• Kia Rio
• Hyundai Accent
• Toyota Yaris

All of the above brands rank higher on the list than Honda for reliability. Even if they do break down, those brands are generally pretty cheap to repair as well.

These cars should fit your price range as long as you can find one that is 1 to 4 years old and has between 5,000 to 35,000 miles.

I wouldn't buy anything brand new, as you are losing a lot of money out the door. You can often find returned dealer leases (usually 3 years old) for a good deal.

I would say the most important thing is to get a car that you like and is comfortable. When I was looking for my Honda Fit, I went to lots of dealerships and at least sat in a lot of different cars. Some seats just did not feel comfortable to me even if the rest of the specs were great.

I would still highly recommend the Honda Fit, but it might not be the most reliable.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1271191026373684/

Might take some looking but IS300s are out there, this one seems to meet your specs

By the way they are a little snug in the back seats for adults in my opinion but for in town trips it’s all good.

With a little negotiation you could push down the price of a new Mazda6 to the upper end of your budget.

It ticks all your boxes - it looks good, has optional leather seats, gets 32 mpg in mixed driving, has exceptionally good handling for a 4 door, and has near-Toyota reliability.

If you factor in essentially no maintenance costs for the three year warranty and the possibility of 0% financing (and associated earnings on the cash you're now able to keep in your bank account), the financial case starts to look pretty good versus a CPO car.

I'm 6'6" and haven't sat in the ST before, but it did make Consumer Reports Top 10 Worst Cars for Tall Drivers list lol. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/02/best-cars-for-tall-or-short-drivers/index.htm

Just wanted to offer some info on the Prius battery. I recently purchased a 2011 with 86k miles. I'd like to keep it another decade, so I did some research into how much the battery packs cost.

For my model, a replacement battery pack is $1800 plus shipping. The labor isn't too involved, just a lot of little steps. Here's a very in-depth (and VERY enthusiastic) video: https://youtu.be/Q3RCdrh666w

I also came across this app for Android. It connects to a specific OBDII scanner over Bluetooth, and generates health reports for the battery pack. There is a companion app for reading the reports. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=priusfan.info.bthsd10

Altogether, I decided I'm not worried about the eventual cost of replacing the battery pack. The fuel economy and reliability makes up for it.

It doesn't hurt that it's also the most comfortable interior I've been in for a long time. I regularly have to make a trip 3 hours each way, in one day. This is the only car I've taken where my ass didn't start getting sore until halfway through the return trip, after 4.5hrs on the road.

Toyota RAV4 Hybrid Proves to Be the Most Fuel-Efficient SUV Ever Tested

... all-wheel-drive version of one the nation's best-selling cross-overs, made better with a hybrid.

Toyota RAV 4 Hybrid, faster, better gas milage, all wheel drive...

Your choice. But the Hybrid has been getting some outstanding reviews...

>High cost of battery replacement

Then it's a good thing the battery failure rate is low to nonexistent.

> false environmental savings (the manufacture of these batteries is a truly nasty business,)

This was thoroughly refuted nine years ago.

Speaking as someone who has driven for almost 30 years and has never gotten in a serious accident, I can give you a few tips. I drove professionally as a bus driver in Seattle for 5 years, so I know what it's like to be nervous behind the wheel. Imagine driving a 60 foot bendy bus in heavy rain in a downtown business district during rush hour. Don't worry, you got this.

If you're that nervous about driving, you need more education, not a safer car. Your A4 is pretty safe. This list is a pretty good start for things you can do to improve.
The tip about adjusting your mirrors is a big one. Make sure they're set up to cover your blind spots.
One of the biggest tips I can give is ALLOW PLENTY OF SPACE IN FRONT OF YOU AT ALL TIMES. This will save you from the majority of accidents. You'll have time to stop if someone in front does, you have space to get around if there's a problem, you wont hit the car in front of you if you're rear ended. Never drive impaired in any way. Don't drive when you're tired or angry. Focus on the road, not on your phone or anything else.
If you follow the above tips, you should get more confident behind the wheel. Driving is one of the great joys in life as long as you do it well.
Modern cars are mostly very safe. There are exceptions, and some are better than others. This database will give you a pretty good idea of how cars do in an accident.

Good luck out there.

I care about the paint, but I won't freak out over a scratch. I drive it, I live in NYC, it's gonna get scratched.

I try taking care of it as best as I can, and I would recommend this wet wax

Stay away from the Acura ILX. Unless the like the idea of an Si, but want to pay more for a cheaper interior, the same road noise and rough ride, but none of the tight handling or any other thing that makes the Si fun. I (assume I was drugged by the dealer (Scopolamine, perhaps) and the next thing I knew I had) leased a 2016 ILX. I cried myself to sleep every night for the next six months until I realised it was worth several grand to not have to look at the damn thing in my driveway anymore. But don't just take my word for it

If it's not too small, the Fiesta ST is worth a look. I had a basic model and it was a lot of fun to drive and pretty decent quality (nicer than the ILX, at least). The GTI and WRX are the other obvious choices, but they might be a stretch like the Focus ST.

And you don't mention it, but with the cars you're looking at, get a manual transmission. If you don't know how to drive one, learn. It's easy. It'll make any car much more sporty-feeling, and reduce your risk of theft.

I'd stay away from any Jeep / Dodge / Chrysler vehicle. They seem like a good value for the price when new, but they are poorly designed, poorly built, and use cheap quality parts that lead to bad reliability.

For example this consumer reports article listing the Cherokee as one of the "5 least reliable" vehicles: http://www.consumerreports.org/cars-owners-speak-out-on-5-least-reliable-cars/

Just get the Audi, the new Allroad is dope. You seem to like it a lot more and it should hold up really well. Audi has come a long way in terms of reliability from where they were 10-15 years ago. For the time and miles you plan on owning it, it seems like you'll be covered under warranty for most of that time anyway.

If you're worried about dropping $50k all at once, or any depreciation, you'd be a pretty good candidate for leasing. Not saying you 100% should, just that it's worth looking into.

Audi has a higher Consumer Reports reliability ranking than Mazda. Their newer cars are fine, it's not like they're looking at an '02 2.7T Allroad with that dog-shit 2.7T and air suspension.

Just sayin' yo

Mitsubishi makes crap cars, read the Consumer Reports review of the Outlander here. They're also backing out of the North American market soon, read here. There's only 3 vehicles left in their product line, the Mirage (commonly considered to be the crappiest car available for purchase in the N. American market), the Lancer and two trim levels of the Outlander.

For what it's worth, Hyundai and KIA (same company) are both ranked very high by consumer reports for reliability. Both are actually above Honda.

Obviously CR isn't the end-all-be-all of reliability, but it's still pretty telling. They've both come a long way in terms of competing with the Japanese for reliability, and they don't have the same "tax" that comes with the Honda or Toyota brand name.

Dear god no. If for no other reason - it's hideously unsafe.

Consumer reviews of cheap and cheerful cars are often positive because they are cheerful. But some are much much much better than others.

Slightly used Fit or Yaris. A manual one of these will likely live longer than you.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/mitsubishi-mirage.htm

https://youtu.be/1vNk9ezbHwE

http://www.consumerreports.org/content/dam/cro/news_articles/cars/CR-Cars-II-Brand-Comparison-Chart-10-15.jpg not according to Consumer Reports anyway.

Historically Mazda has had some rust issues, and frankly it is too soon to tell for the new models, but they do say that they have addressed that issue, so it should be better. Mechanically Mazdas have always been pretty solid.

TL;DR - I really like the Fiat 500 too. BUT - I wouldn't buy one because they are very unreliable. Per CR data the 500L is the least reliable car in their survey. The Regular 500 is only ever so slightly better (2nd least reliable?). And it's not just by a little bit, it's by a lot.

2015 CR Quality ratings

2015 JD Power Initial Quality

If you want cute tiny car - the most reliable options are Scion iQ, Toyota Prius C, Honda Fit, Honda CR-Z. They are all quite different, so can't say which one is the one you want.

Also I really like the Smart Fortwo, and it is more reliable than the Fiat, but also more expensive to fix because MB dealers, and still not reliable enough. So don't go here either.

$22k is tough to find a 3-row SUV or minivan with Apple CarPlay under 50k miles. Not impossible though. Try to see if you can find a 2017 or newer Ford Flex. It’s got station wagon vibes but is incredibly roomy. The related 2017 Lincoln MKT has it too but man those things are a love or hate design (I personally hate it but that’s your call).

https://www.apple.com/ios/carplay/available-models/

Above is a link to the list of CarPlay compatible vehicles. You can also find a non-compatible vehicle and see if you can install a new aftermarket head unit that is compatible.

> Domestic small and compact cars, and full-sized pickups aren’t helping American carmakers to improve their reliability rank. The Chevrolet Sonic and Cruze, Ford Fiesta and Focus, and the turbo version of the Dodge Dart are all below average.

http://pressroom.consumerreports.org/pressroom/2014/10/my-entry.html

and http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/12/most-and-least-reliable-small-cars/index.htm

Yes this is just one source, but other studies show the same. The Yaris is regularly bulletproof (although the Scion xB and Prius C do better still) and the Fords (Fiesta/Focus) are typically on the "below average" list - although they are better cars in every other way.

The battery will last the life of the vehicle, failure rate is incredibly low. People sometimes will talk about the expensive replacement cost of them (about 3 grand after core refund), but it's very unlikely to need it, ever.

As far as highway, it cruises fine and is good for over 45mpg. Rated for 51c/48h. It's a nice car, just not very peppy.

I know someone with the previous generation with 400k+ miles and a 2+hour one way commute. No troubles with battery, or any major component. There is a new prius slated for 2016, which is probably why they have great incentives on them currently.

EDIT: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/12/best-new-car-values/index.htm

The Prius is the least expensive in the compact car category to operate. And this calculation doesn’t take 0% financing into consideration.

Check out this Consumer Reports article/video if you're just trying to maximize value for your dollar

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/12/best-new-car-values/index.htm

EDIT: If you don't have CR or tl;dr: get a Camry, Accord, Legacy or Forester. Personally, I vote Subaru.

If you're good with another mid-sizer, the 2017 Sonata has SERIOUS incentives right now. The new 2018s are starting to trickle in but honestly if you're OK with having last year's style - the 2017s are very good cars and come with all the things you listed. Good through July 31st.

https://slickdeals.net/f/10116716-hyundai-sonata-limited-or-2-0t-at-least-6-750-cash-back-10-000-off-ymmv

Also you might wanna look here - https://www.edmunds.com/car-leasing/monthly-199-lease-deals.html

A good resource to start with is Consumer Reports. You have to pay to subscribe to see the detailed ratings and rankings, but for $40 or so it's a great investment if you want to do some serious research on pricing, reliability, safety, fuel economy etc.

Some cars they recommend that fit your description:

• 2005-2006 Scion tC
• 2008 Mazda3
• 2005 Subaru Impreza
• 2004 Infiniti G

If you're interested in getting more information, the page I referenced is here and there's more information than you could ever use here.

If you're not willing to pay up front, Edmunds.com is also a great resource.

Good luck!

Adjusting your mirrors correctly and checking them first, then the blindspot is a much cheaper option. You can also buy the add on mirrors.

https://www.amazon.com/Fit-System-C0400-Passenger-Adjustable/dp/B001DKT0DO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=blindspot+mirror&qid=1603235779&s=automotive&sr=1-3

$5. Maybe like $10 after shipping and tax.

And before someone chimes in, no these systems aren't just for bad or inattentive drivers. They can help protect you against the mistakes of others drivers and might even make a difference if you somehow become incapacitated.

AEB is considered important enough that it might be standard starting in 2022: http://www.consumerreports.org/car-safety/all-new-cars-to-have-standard-automatic-emergency-braking/

I wasn't consider JDP an impartial source of information. Try Consumer Reports instead: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/12/most-and-least-reliable-small-cars/index.htm

The Civic sedan doesn't have the aesthetics issues that the hatch and coupe do. The black plastic panels are still there, but they're much smaller.

Do You Really Need AWD in the Snow?

>... our tests found that all-wheel drive by itself won’t help if you’re heading too fast toward a sudden sharp curve on a snowy night.

>That’s an important point for people who overestimate the capability of their all-wheel-drive vehicle. We’ve all seen them, zipping past us in blizzards with their illusory cloak of invincibility...

>... using snow tires provides the best grip and assurance for going, stopping, and cornering no matter what you drive: all-wheel drive, front-drive, or rear-drive. And buying winter tires for a front-drive car will cost far less than the several-thousand-dollar premium you’ll pay for all-wheel drive.

Snow Tires vs AWD: Which Gets Your Ass to Work Alive?

>...winter tires will allow you turn and stop much easier regardless of the number of wheels under power.

Despite all the money spent marketing AWD cars, a FWD car with snow tires will corner and decelerate better than an AWD car with all season tires.

Its your money. Its your choice. Buy the car that you like better!

Extended car warranties: An expensive gamble...majority of buyers never use the coverage

>A recent Consumer Reports survey found that 55 percent of owners who purchased an extended warranty hadn’t used it for repairs during the lifetime of the policy... And, on average, those who did use it spent hundreds more for the coverage than they saved in repair costs.

Why you should never buy third-party extended auto warranties

Personally, I would never buy a third party warranty from a dealer.

Realize also that the term 'certified' has no legal value. That is, from a legal perspective, you have no right to expect anything more from a 'certified' used car than any other used car. That said, if I really liked the car, it being certified wouldn't keep me from buying it either. (Assuming that the price was valid.)

Best of luck!

Oh, I got things wrong. Consumer Reports has Infinit at #8. Nissan is at #13. I just remembered CR's Talking Cars team talking about how Nissan and Infiniti have declined in terms of reliability.

http://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability/car-brands-reliability-how-they-stack-up/

For perspective:

• Audi is at #4
• Buick is at #3
• BMW is at #9

I don't really know much about this car but I remembered seeing it on a consumer reports list. Just found it: http://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability-owner-satisfaction/7-cars-owners-regret-buying/

Some previous gen models could suffer from excessive oil burn. If so the dealers can do a test and repair as needed. It's a manufacturer issue and not a trait of the boxer engine. Audi and BMW had similar complaints (source).

No issues that I've heard from the current gen.

Realistically, you aren't going to find much of anything newer than 2008 for $8000k or less, although that comes with a few exceptions, and still leaves you plenty of good options.

I'd still recommend going for an older Rav4 - they had stellar safety ratings from 2004 - 2012 and they are just bulletproof reliable (expect them to last quite a bit longer than 200k miles), I'd pick a 90k mile 2006 Rav4 over a 2010 VW or Audi with half as many miles, when it comes to cost to own and long term dependability.

Chevys range from middle of the road to mediocre in terms of repair costs and reliability. Better than some, worst than most. The bright side is, if it does break down (and they do), parts are cheap, so maintenance costs, while higher than Toyotas/Hondas, remain relatively manageable. Kias are similar, slightly better. You'll get the newest car you can for your budget by opting for the Kia Soul or a Chevy, and while long term dependability will be stronger for a Toyota/Honda they're still OK.

I'd recommend a 2009+ Chevy Malibu over the Impala, it has stellar safety ratings for it's class. That being said I'd still encourage looking at RAV4's as old as 2005 as well, just based on their build quality and longevity.

Found this list online as well, maybe it will help you out (it says teen drivers but really its all about maximizing safety for under $10k): http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/03/safest-used-cars-under-10-000-for-teen-drivers/index.htm

The new Audi A4 is super cool and full of newer tech, including safety stuff which gives it a great rating. Lots of room in the budget to go a bit nuts with the options too. Audi's reliability score has improved quite a lot lately and Consumer Reports put them in 4th place by brand ahead of Honda, Mazda, Infiniti, and Acura to name a few.

An ex coworker of mine was a manager for a Kia plant and he drives a Lexus, that should say enough about the cars he saw assembled considering the discount he could get. In my opinion, the sales and service centers alone disqualify any Kia as a legitimate consideration. Even if the car is good I just don't trust the company as a whole, and I'm not alone: https://www.trustpilot.com/review/kia.com

You need to try to find a Stick shift Suzuki SX4 AWD. Get a spare set of rims with some winter tires. Thing is perfect For flat and Icey/muddy places like Iowa, with good mpg.

Heres a good one. Offer 2800-3000 cause of the hail damage, and put the rest away for gas tires and parts. The TPMS caps just need new batteries. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3234148659958310/

I’m thinking a Honda Element would be perfect for you. Tons of headroom, versatile, well-sized, reliable, and great for camping and hiking.

Or for something really cool, go buy this very clean Jeep Commando for sale in Vashon, WA. This would be so much fun. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2530839073913053

Read this article: SUVs are safer than cars in front crashes, but there is more to the story

"In car vs. SUV head-on crashes, the study found that the odds of death were 7.6 times higher for the car driver than the SUV driver. In crashes where the car had a better front crash-test rating than the SUV did, the car's driver fared a bit better but was still four and a half times more likely to die than the SUV driver."

In terms of safety, bigger/heavier/taller is the way to go

I would personally not get GAP, if you paid around 5k less than MSRP, they don't depreciate as fast as a Leaf/Chrysler 200 so you won't be upside down much.

You can call around for extended warranties. Here is a good thread https://slickdeals.net/f/1258591-toyota-extended-warranties-1-2-price

I’ve been looking too, and narrowed my search down to the 19+ RAV4, CRV, Forester, and maybe the CX5, but you’ll have to go used to be under 25k. In the CX5, I’d say you want to go at least Touring, in the RAV4, XLE, in the CRV, EX, And a Premium in a Forester. Here’s a list of Cars with CarPlay, but it’s not always available on the base trims, so double check. Near your budget is an 18 Acura RDX, but you have to go with the Advance trim to get Apple CarPlay. I’m also going to drive a Hyundai Santa Fe. For $25k you’d be close to finding a new one with leather, and all the safety features.

good research! i haven't personally heard of subaru's oil consumption issues but after some quick research it's definitely a well known and poorly regarded issue. of course it isn't detrimental to the life of the car but its definitely another cost to worry about.

Here's some more insight

Personally because I'm a fan of the older body style, maybe search for a late 2nd gen with low mileage, or a pre 2010 3rd gen!

• Ultimately just because I haven't heard much about the matrix doesn't mean it's a bad choice. If you're fully informed and feel it meets your needs then definitely go for it! I know virtually nothing about the matrix haha

The Honda Pilot is at the top of this list. There's also a list here about SUV's w/ a 3rd row

I think the general takeaway here is the larger/heavier car will be more soft and relaxing than a smaller cheaper car. That - and the Mazda is actually sporty feeling so it's not a high bar to beat for cruising comfort. A Civic will be more comfortable than a Fit, but the Accord will be more comfortable than a Civic.

That said - one of the best deals running right now is the 2017 Hyundai Sonata. It was refreshed for 18 and yes the new one is better but the old one is still a very good car. More to the point - it's a midsize sedan with all the trimmings you can get with $7k off right now. Should be able to come in at right around $19k.

https://slickdeals.net/f/10116716-hyundai-sonata-limited-or-2-0t-at-least-6-750-cash-back-10-000-off-ymmv

My brother has a 944 turbo with 503 thousand miles on it, but has had some issues which you have to expect at that mileage. I personaly love NA miatas, but I know some people don't. Here is his opposite lock account if you want to look at his 944. https://kinja.com/iamkensimon?startTime=1450749495161

Keep in mind he bought it for $2000. Also it has a cancan interior which they only made 500 with the white exterior, which is neat.

Sorry, I don't know much about those models, but if Apple Carplay is a priority, then scratch the Toyota, Nissan, and Mazda off the list. None of them have it right now. Toyota has no known plans to add it. Nissan only has it on the Maxima right now. Mazda has announced plans but unknown when.

Here is a link on apple.com for models containing carplay.

https://www.apple.com/ios/carplay/available-models/

If you haven't done any research on a new car before, I'd recommend looking at Consumer Reports Recommended Buys (if you have a subscription). I also use MSN Autos website for quick stats on a car I'm interested in.

A few suggestions. Convertibles and sunroofs are going to be tough - they have less headroom with the top up than regular roofs:

The Volvo C70 convertible. Volvos tend to be good for tall people, it's got the gas mileage you want, and a convertible you want, and you could get a late-model used one for about the price you want. The reliability is only about average.

The Subaru Forester. A common recommendation for tall people, as it has a lot of headroom. Not a convertible, and only average reliability, but it carries a lot and has good gas mileage.

The Ford Edge. The Ford Flex is actually the Ford with the most headroom (a Consumer Reports 10-best car for tall drivers) -- but it's a 3-row SUV with not great reliability, so it doesn't seem all that good a fit otherwise. You said you liked your Explorer, so I wanted to throw a Ford in here, and the Edge does have some good headroom, plus better gas mileage and reliability than the Explorer. And it's bigger than an Escape. A Fusion might also be good.

People have already mentioned the Accord. Everything you want except a convertible - although 6'4" is really tall. And Avalons are big, comfortable, reliable cars, as someone mentioned.

You might also like a 2014 Chevy Impala - but the 2013s and earlier are crappy so you'd have to buy new or only slightly used, and the 2014 might be just outside your price range.

CPO sounds like a good plan. Checkout a 2011-12 Forester. Consumer Reports lists it as among the best vehicles for tall drivers.

Read through the /r/SubaruForester /r/subaru forums and checkout the multitude of Subaru forums on the web - https://www.bing.com/search?q=subaru+forums&PC=U316&FORM=CHROMN. Alot of faithful Subaru owners with cars that have over 100k or 200k miles on them.

Check out the for sale ads on nextdoor.com - its all private party sales by your neighbors so less likely to try and screw you over. I've found a couple of solid used cars there.

Here is the VIN for the 128i WBAUP9C55DVS95644. I Might be test driving this car tomorrow if they guy gets back to me. This car {according to the bank and other sites like KBB and others I have checked} is worth more than the 328i, but is selling for the same price. I don't have any of the service records or the Car Fax yet. Below is the add on facebook market place.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/187419875226086/

Here is the VIN for the 328i WBAKE3C50DE771468. I just got this inspected and it's in really good condition, It will need a valve cover gasket soon and a slight leak on oil drain plug. The mechanic said the car was in really good condition for its age and mileage. But it is due for some regular maintenance soon. So far, this car is great but I would need to talk the dealer down a bit. 17k is a bit high because I would need to put about $1000+ in it soon for the valve gasket, plus plugs and coils. Below is the car's add on cars.com.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/725702422/overview/

You are right, it's a good problem to have but it is stressful.

401k offerings vary wildly by provider and employer, best I can say about them is to stay clear of "Life Path" or "Targeted Retirement" plans as my personal stance is that they are far too conservative and have high fees. Either way you should be able to find some index fund in your 401k, it maybe a Russel 1000/2000 or an S&P500 or some other more obscure index - but it'll be there. My own 401k offerings are infuriating as we don't have good unmanaged growth index options - so I'm stuck with just Russel 1000 index which I find less aggressive than I'd like.

At 30 I would absolutely start investing aggressively. If you have cold feet about stocks like I did for damn near a decade - fake invest. Download a stock tracking app like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.peeksoft.stocks&hl=en_US&gl=US and add holdings to it that you don't actually have. Watch them and see how they do and while you'll absolutely see losses now and then over time these will turn green (hopefully) and with that your hesitation will fade. Even now I fake buy stocks more often that I buy them for real just to watch "what could have been" scenarios. (And yes, that has lead me to kicking myself pretty hard sometimes for not actually going in.)

Rav4 is a standard sized head unit. The dash kit replaces that whole radio space: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-8217-Double-Installation-2006-2009/dp/B000WUJ914/ - It's the gray part below the vents and between the silver part.

We have an AA unit in our 2007 and it installed without issue.

That old with that few miles is asking for leaks to start, so be ready to shell out a little bit. It's pretty common for leaks to start when it's been sitting and then is drive a bunch. If it's a 4 cylinder, they're pretty cheap to maintain. Valve cover gasket will be a cheap job, for example. But if it's a v6, they're quite a bit more. The timing cover reseal on that car is about $1500 vs $500 or so on the 4 cylinder. Not to deter you from the v6, they're still very stout engines - it's the same engine in basically every v6 Toyota: Camry, Avalon, newer Tacomas, all kinds of Lexus...es, Highlander, Sienna.

I'm not saying that Rav4 would be a bad choice, but I think you'd be a little better off with a 100k unit. Probably be a little cheaper to buy, and probably be a little cheaper to maintain because of the reasons above.

Get snow tires and a lumbar cushion. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Carex-Lumbar-Support-Pillow-Cushion/dp/B001AFDAU6

The Elantras do perfectly fine in snow with the right tires and a small SUV with AWD isn't honestly going to be that much better because AWD doesn't really help braking or turning - that's all tires.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZX656A/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_vMn4BbYSC16G3%20via%20@amazon

That is what I bought, and I really like it. It fits my back perfectly, I had gotten to the point where my back was in extreme pain after driving for 20 minutes. There are a variety of cushions that cost more or less.....My car is stick shift as well but if you want the fancy seats you need to purchase a cvt

No, but yes. Coming from a fellow 15 year old and a once Subaru fan, the cars are fun but they have their problems. firstly, if you buy any Subaru know that they have their engine problems. Firstly, most Subaru's have a flat 4, which is a great motor, but they have head gasket problems which can be very expensive and not to mention can be a much larger job than anticipated because of bottom end problems. bring a head gasket tester when you buy one it will save you money. also if you're up north make sure to bring a hammer to check for frame rust and etc.

TL;DR: look for rust and head gasket problems.

you should have a hammer...

link to a good head gasket tester (the one Scotty Kilmer used): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVBSFTF/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=scottykilmerc-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06VVBSFTF&linkId=f8dbb0b03f47b8e3db19013be3d32b3f

Mine was a manual yes, but I'm pretty sure the process is mostly the same. If you are just replacing the outer waterproof layer, it should be way cheaper than $2k. I was lucky, and didn't have to replace the "Pad", which is the part that's actually insulative. That part was like $1.2k alone for my car. I suppose if the motor was going out/didn't work that would be another thing that could potentially be very pricy, but that's another story...

Just looked it up on amazon, and the first one that popped up is ~$500... source.

It took me, a novice, a month and a half of weekends because (a) I'm a newb, (b) some of the parts were broken that I didn't expect to be broken, and I didn't have some of the tools I needed, and (c) the provided instructions were so terrible that halfway through the process I went out and bought a new set of more professionally made instructions. After getting the more professional instructions, the process went much faster. I estimate a pro, who has done it a million times, and has the proper tools, could do it in a fraction of the time.

Floor mats: Husky or Weather Tech

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-Liners-SuperCab-Carpet-Floors/dp/B01LZWTSVV?ref_=ast_sto_dp

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/weathertech-universal-floor-mats-black-rubber-with-deep-channels-all-weather-universal-4-pack-11avmsb/99993100-p?product_channel=local&store=6253&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=6253&...

Cargo Cover: Tuffy at OReilly

Dash cam: Garmin or Insignia

Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis is best option because v8 and rwd, it's also the most reliable car ever. Also no Toyota or Honda Tax which is something not enough people take into consideration.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/950164325395077/ Just look at this you CANNOT get any Honda or Toyota this nice for 3k. Even has only 60k miles.

That's a tough one. I'm around an area where I can find those all day under 100k for your budget, but I'd say if the interior is in 85-90%+ condition, the person has good records of maintenence, its obviously had signs of being babied, etc., then as long as it isn't 200k you'd be better off buying that then someone whos beat the hell out of the car with only 100k. A good average would be to stay under 150k tho, and if you can find one under 80k that looks good snatch that up asap.

For instance: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/813869589359613/

This one would be a good idea to checkout. 117k, tranny has be replaced, and the interior looks literally immaculate. However, ask where he got the trans replaced, if it was new or used, if used how many miles were on the old car, etc. Might be able to talk him down to 3.5k and use the extra money to make it look pretty or do some extra mods. ALWAYS REPLACE FLUIDS FIRST AND DO MAINTENENCE.

What do you guys think of this? A Toyota Sienna for $2k. My husband could take out that last row of seats to create space for stuff. It has roof racks too. Owner said it's been in his family for 10 years, negligible rust and has service records. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/645968062482275/

Price is canadian dollars so I guess in USD it's cheaper because of exchange rate. Will try to negociate at 7,000$. It comes with winter tires (only used one winter) and 17 inc black mags wheels. Link to the car. All stuff added together it makes a decent deal, I think...

What would you recommend instead? My budget is around 9,000$. Here is the Accent and the Impreza. Ideally the car is hatchback.

What did you think of the car? The first one I drove looked just like this but for some reason those rims are only available on the SEL trim.

Yeah I wondered that myself. Any report of this kind is going to be only loosely accurate, so I myself interpreted the Buick result as noise. Just looked up a CR article on it. An excerpt as follows:

> "Buick’s achievement is commendable and sure to be a wake-up call to other manufacturers,” said Jake Fisher, Consumer Reports’ director of automotive testing. “One reason why the brand has been able to leapfrog others in the General Motors’ stable has been its limited vehicle lineup--with none of the pickups and truck-based SUVs that have negatively impacted Cadillac and Chevrolet.”

So that suggests this is an artifact of the methodology: GM makes a few reliable vehicles and the Buick lineup limits itself to those vehicles.

It looks like Subaru also has the same problem in reverse: it has a limited lineup and had one below average car. But overall, it's a very reliable brand.

As far as I can tell, CR endorses the idea that Audi really is just that reliable. Unlike with Buick, Audi's high ranking is not a sudden development.

The three sites I listed earlier. The last thing I said about Honda is from CR, i.e. Consumer reports. As you can see Honda is good but has a better reputation than it may deserve, and the Korean brands in particular are underrated.

True Delta is probably the nerdiest of the three sites, but it's less reliable for less popular cars because the sample size gets too small.

http://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability/car-brands-reliability-how-they-stack-up/

Again, I'm not bashing the brand. They put CVTs in the entry level cars to help with gas mileage, and it works. They improved mileage significantly and kept full-time AWD. If I lived in Buffalo, NY and I had lost the use of my left leg, a Subaru with CVT would be the first car that I'd look at.

Sorry, I haven't owned either of these two to really know first hand (I've only owned an Acura and a Nissan). If someone else comes into this thread then I'll defer to them. Otherwise, I had to look for information about their maintenance costs:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/what-that-car-really-costs-to-own/index.htm

The BMW tends to cost slightly more in maintenance, but they're both luxury cars so folks will tend to charge a higher fee for services to them. But costs can vary if you can find a good independent BMW mechanic as opposed to taking the vehicle to the dealership.

From what others have told me, BMWs are fine if you are vigilant about maintaining them and following their service schedule. But if you're very worried then I think the Lexus IS isn't a bad choice to go with.

http://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability/car-brands-reliability-how-they-stack-up/

Obviously this isn't the be it all end all but yes, Mazdas are generally more reliable. My buddy's family has a mazda dealership so I've been around the current gen Mazda 3 a lot and I think it's a very good car. If it was me making the decision between the VW and the Mazda, I'd buy the mazda without a second thought.

On top of this, the mazda has 30K less kms, that's nothing to scoff at.

I would get a battery cut off switch such as this https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Horizontal-Vertical/dp/B07Z4R7W2D/ And some fuel stabilizer like Sta-bil

But whatever car you get, also research to find out if it has an IOD (ignition off draw) or ESS (extended storage switch) fuse you can pull to keep the vampire loads in check. Battery tender is a great idea.

While I feel for you, at the same time you also come through as overly naive about the nature of the sales field. I'd recommend Wolf Richter's Testosterone Pit - it's a 10 year old book, but not much has changed since then, auto sales is a very conservative business. Judging by your outspoken opinion on EVs I believe that's why you may find it appealing, though you may be misguided if you think it's fun.
Do you have a degree in engineering or any formal technical education? If you don't I'll guess they'll assign you to services & warranties or to handling the CRM system rather than selling cars right from the start.

The 3M and Sylvania brand kit is considered the best consumer grade product.

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Headlight-Restoration-Headlights-Protection/dp/B00429NKWK/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDB5U4QUdD0

You don't have to get a hard shell one. I have this one and it works fine. You can just roll/fold it up when not it use and throw it in a closet.

If it's just my son and I camping, everything will fit in my Accord just fine, but if the whole family is going, I need the roof carrier.

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097HRPQ8R

They plug into the wall, and beep like crazy when they get a kill so you'll know to empty them before they stink up the place.

I baited mine with nuts so that I don't have to worry about the bait going bad any time soon. So far scored 1 chipmunk - feel bad for the little guy but at least he ain't eating my car...

>apple carplay/android auto

Upgrade the stereo to whatever stereo you like...

o 2015 Chevy Spark dash kit and wiring harness
o Cheapest double-din w/ carplay/android auto on amazon

Looks like there's some werid USB adapters that also claim to do it... dunno how well those work with stock systems though.

If it saves you a few hundred bucks, this may be the way to go instead of trying to get the latest and greatest just for the tech package.

You definitely can convert air suspension to another suspension method, although I am also not sure about how that is on this particular model. Plus, OP said that was one of the reasons they were interested in it, although I guess they could always convert it ~~if~~ when they ever ran into trouble with it.

Anyways, I did find this one here on Amazon. I can't speak to the quality at all, but they do exist. There were a few on other, auto-focused sites but they were all significantly more expensive (in the $1k range).

Before you move along you should buy one of those kits that test for exhaust gas in your coolant. It will give you a yes or no answer for the headgasket for about $30 and requires very minimal mechanical skils.

https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF

A flashlight...so you can look under the damn car for rust.

I've bought and sold multiple cars. It's amazed me how few of the buyers ever bothered to look under the cars I was selling - and I'm in PA.

If you're looking at old or high milage cars or cars prone to head gasket issues - a combustion leak detector kit is dirt cheap and can save you a lot of headaches:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI?th=1

Don't buy one if you're looking at a 2 year old camry, do buy one if you're looking at old subarus or pre 2005 4Runners etc...

I use this thing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N47F8DK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works really well to get salt and shit off the bottom. I only use it after offroading to get the dirt and mud off. Stuck on mud is a rust accelerator as it absorbs and maintains humidity.

Also if they salt in your area - find a local shop that does undercoating - I suggest these guys : https://nhoilundercoating.com/

It's about $200-300 depending on the area to spray down the bottom of the truck. IF you undercoat, don't pressure wash the underbody as you'll just blast the coating off.

You can buy a dog mat for the back and it would be protected better.

Like this: https://www.chewy.com/frisco-quilted-water-resistant/dp/170837?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=16403238651&utm_content=Frisco&utm_term=&show-search=1&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V16vfWFX3XdzARtAUVO_UmPH&gclid...

Agree to disagree. Here is the page for an alternator for a E46 330i with an M54 with multiple aftermarket choices. And then for a 2GR

Thanks thanks thanks. Do you think these cheaper ones will suffice? (I historically will buy a cheap tool while I’m learning a system and then go more)

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07D2CG1TT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q850VHQBTPW12MSZQH0F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09CL7ZDZ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7VP5KG16C5B5PYR50TX6

I got this for the Tacoma with a black queen size mattress protector - https://www.amazon.com/Kululu-Waterproof-Scratchproof-Backseat-Protector/dp/B08LC3Z7LH

I like how the Tacoma back seats fold completely flat with the rubber backing as well. Plan is to cover the folded seats with the mattress protector and then the hammock on top of that. Long term I’d like you get a soft topper or used shell to potentially be able to secure the dogs in the bed if needed.

Sorry for the "double comment", but I'll add a bit more:

• Backup cameras are mandatory on all new vehicles (in the U.S.)

• IMO, rear parking sensors aren't really that useful if you have a backup camera

• If you still want rear parking sensors, they are cheap to add. I added them to my car for about $150, installed. The sensors themselves are dirt cheap, but you will probably want to pay for installation

• If you want a front view camera, you can add one fairly easily. If you want wireless for easy installation, one option is a solar-powered license plate holder camera. full frame example, frame-less style

• Similar to rear parking sensors, you probably don't need the sensors if you have a camera. But they should be similarly inexpensive if you want to add them.

I'd personally pass on it and buy one of the linked cameras, unless you are already buying a very expensive vehicle where the extra cost doesn't represent a big % increase. Depending on finance rate, taxes, etc, you have to ask yourself if it's really worth an extra $50/mo over the life of the loan.

Consumer Reports

> ...all-wheel drive didn’t aid in braking or in certain cornering situations. Our evaluations conclusively showed that using winter tires matters more than having all-wheel drive in many situations, and that the difference on snow and ice can be significant.

Knowing how to drive in adverse conditions is probably most important. Many, many, drivers think of 4wd as some kind of miracle. Get snow tires and drive by them after they find themselves in the ditch...

http://www.consumerreports.org/used-car-buying/used-cars-to-avoid-buying/

Use this website to help yourself avoid buying a lemon. It has already helped me quite a bit - was leaning strongly towards a 2011-2012 Cruze until I found out they're terribly unreliable.

Do You Really Need AWD in the Snow? Automakers have long boasted that all-wheel drive is all you need to get your car through winter’s fury. Our exclusive tests tell a different story.

>All-wheel drive is about getting your car moving from a dead stop—not about braking or steering­—and you should be aware of its limitations.

>Through weeks of driving in snowy, unplowed conditions at Consumer Reports’ 327-acre test center in Connecticut, we found that all-wheel drive didn’t aid in braking or in certain cornering situations. Our evaluations conclusively showed that using winter tires matters more than having all-wheel drive in many situations, and that the difference on snow and ice can be significant.

No magic in AWD SUV's. People that don't know how to drive in the snow will continue to have problems, AWD SUV or no...

I would avoid the Tesla Model S due to reliability issues pointed out by Consumer Reports.

Instead, go for the Lexus LS - it looks imposing, and stylish too and is generally very reliable.

A choice of 4.6-litre/386hp V8 [rear-wheel-drive] or 4.6-litre/360hp V8 [all-wheel-drive] engines are available.

Strong points are a smooth ride, and high-quality interiors. However, it's let down by handling not being quite as good as German rivals, and the Lexus Remote Tech system is confusing.

Lexus will be a far easier choice to look after than a Tesla - better dealer support network, ease of parts supply, and a generally positive owner experience.

Hope this helps! ;)

I still think you may be conflating the reliability and customer satisfaction ratings. E.g. the reliability page for the Subaru Forester shows a breakdown of reliability for every subsystem. There doesn't seem to be any way that trivial complaints would affect this rating.

I'm not saying that Consumer Reports has a perfect system, but it's surely better than anecdotal opinions.

It's hard to get a new-ish, small-ish, 2-row SUV that fits your towing criteria and isn't German. I mean there's the Jeep Cherokee (4500# towing), and Ford Escape (3500#), but with the reputations of those particular models I'd rather take my chances wiss ze Germans. The Cherokee has a nightmare transmission and loads of FCA build quality issues, and the Ford Escape has countless recalls out for it not to mention no V6.

The Audi Q5 is rated for 4400 lbs of towing, an available V6, and all the luxury features you seem to want. Audi in recent years has been above average in terms of reliability, right up there between Toyota and Mazda for 2015 according to Consumer Reports. You can certainly find a used one for $25k, possibly even a CPO though it'd likely be a 2.0T rather than a 3.2 or 3.0T V6.

There's also the Mercedes GLK250/350 which can tow 3500#. The diesel engine should be stout and get good mpg too. A 2013 CPO GLK350 should be right around $25k.

The excellent Toyota 4Runner is perfect for you but doesn't get great mileage and is wicked expensive on the used market. They just don't depreciate. Maybe something like a Chevrolet Equinox V6 (3500#) or a Mitsubishi Outlander GT-V6 (3500#) would be worth a look.

The Lexus NX did not get a good review in Consumer Reports in 2015. It's not a bad car - but not a great one.

However, I would consider the Subaru Crosstrek, and consider going with the Hybrid version, which does 31mpg, and it has a 2.0-litre/150hp flat-4 petrol with a 10kW motor, giving 160hp in total.

It's a bit slower than the regular 2.0 petrol, but it's also heavier too. It is refined to drive, and worth a look.

Hope this helps! ;)

Personally, I’d be looking for a BMW Z3 or an Audi TT with that set of parameters.

I’d also keep an eye on cheap Boxsters as everyonce in a while a decent (probably high mileage) one is offered at $5k.

Other interesting cars at that price point: - Acura RSX - Acura Integra - Toyota Celica - Toyota Supras (late 80s / early 90s) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/293986011731089/ - Lexus SC300/400 - Honda Civic Si 2004ish - Honda Civic Del Sol

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2668629826722115/?ref=messenger_banner Tell me does this look too good to be true? Cars clean, manual, price is good, mileage is decent. Thinking about picking it up tomorrow. Anything I should know?

Those are difficult criteria to meet, but here's the closest match I've found. It's a VW Rabbit for sale in Des Moines. Only caveats are that it has 105k miles and its a year older than you would like.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/673914263164090

You can definitely find a manual Miata, Civic, or 350z. Try marketplace. You could buy one of those within budget, but if you want a cleaner, unmolested example maybe save up a bit more.

If you want a good story and wrench more, go and save this old Triumph from the scrapyard. I found this for sale on Marketplace in Denver. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/573355880209692