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$16 + 1 scraped up forearm and you’ll be all set. Go thru the ashtray, don’t let anyone convince you to pull dash panels or go thru the fuse box area. Use a towel on the plastic flash or you’ll regret it.
I got the BAFX reader from Amazon. It works pretty well, I also use torque pro app. I wish it was shorter though. When it's plugged in it's really easy to hit with my right foot.
It's one of those little places where security sits that can move up and down in the middle of a parking lot.
Marino plug on Amazon. I've put them on every diesel I've had. My current is hard wired for a battery tender and block heater. Timer goes on at 3 AM and battery gets a trickle while the block heater gets to work.
I have an F450.
This:
VIAIR Constant Duty Onboard Air System - 10007 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YC42RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CtXch7VBrSGNm
And this:
GG Grand General 69991 Chrome Heavy Duty Train Horn with Triple Brass Trumpet for Superior Sound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OK2L94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nepk8Sx2zQIxl
I have a manifold coming off the the tank and runs a line to the solenoid for the horn and another line that runs to a quick connect we installed just to the side of the license plate on the bumper.
Wired the horn into an upfitter switch so we have the regular horn for regular idiots and the train horn for bigger idiots.
The train horn will get that Prius that just pulled out in front of you while you are pulling a 20k lb 5’er out of your way real quick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8VLBG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I just replaced my cord about 3 weeks ago. got the replacement from Amazon.
It works great!
This is super helpful, thanks to all who replied. Just to make sure I don't fuck this up somehow, is this what you all were referring to?
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TKMXKHL/ref=sw\_img\_1?smid=A3BI1G2N2L5ERX&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083Z7FW7R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got that to use in my F-250. It actually works really well. It's adjustable and goes in one of the cup holders. It was on sale for like $7 when I bought it, so I figured it was worth the gamble to see if it worked.
I got these for my '05 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSDI8C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 been happy with them, I prioritized my search for reviews talking about stability or not shaking. They are very stable
You need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM
Harbor Freight used to sell them but a quick search on their website turned up nothing. Just use that thing, you'll isolate all sorts of noises
FWIW, the app doesn't do everything the windows software can do. For a deep dive into the sensors, you want a USB OBD2 adapter https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-USB-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B005ZWM0R4
and if you care, the software works well in linux with wine
Flasher relay inside the dash. Get this one.
Go thru the ash tray hole, couple bolts and it’s all the way to the left (close to the fuse box area). Almost elbow deep. Put a towel on the left edge of the ash tray hole, and wear long sleeve because the parting line flash on that piece of plastic is nasty and will gouge your forearm all up.
Good luck.
I just dealt with this issue a week or two ago. The hubs run on vacuum, and the solenoid that controls the pulse on the hubs died on my 05 6.0. I swapped that solenoid out and my hubs started working again. You may have an issue somewhere else with the lines or the hub seals leaking. But this would be a good place to start looking. Link below for replacement part I used.
https://www.amazon.com/DORMAN-600-402-Wheel-Locking-Solenoid/dp/B00GHT7ZYM
https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Filter-Ford-Powerstroke-3C3Z-9G270-BA%EF%BC%8C/dp/B09168QNLW/
i have this exact one and works good, also helps diagnosing bad fpr (though every 6.0 should have blue spring already)
Whenever I did aluminum polishing on my semi (back before I retired) I was a fan of Met-All Aluminum polish. It's made for aircraft, and works WONDERS on anything aluminum or stainless.
save yourself a pile of headache, get a cheapy mccheap cheap laptop from FB marketplace, this adapter from amazon and get FORscan, best $30CAD I've ever spent.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07S7W14X9/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just bought this chunky guy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WZFPXFM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Did a decent amount of research and it seemed like the best option. Not cheap, but neither is getting stranded somewhere.
Ok, then I'd definitely replace the thermostat. Unfortunately, if you've never replaced the thermostat before, you may break some of the bolts on the thermostat housing so be careful. And go with the Motorcraft RT1201 thermostat because that has the rubber seal on the edge -- your run of the mill thermostat from most auto parts stores won't have that rubber seal and is a lot harder to seal.
Android Car Stereo Double Din, 9.7 Inch Vertical Touch Screen Car Radio 2G RAM+32G ROM, GPS Navigation Bluetooth Player Support Backup Camera Mirror Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091BYGXSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_HT6P59JWRDM0MZGFWRW8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's the head unit.
Android Car Stereo Double Din, 9.7 Inch Vertical Touch Screen Car Radio 2G RAM+32G ROM, GPS Navigation Bluetooth Player Support Backup Camera Mirror Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091BYGXSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_HT6P59JWRDM0MZGFWRW8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like the price went up a bit but still the best fit for this vehicle. I tried the horizontal 10" ones and even a double din size 7" that's much smaller and just didn't like it.
Android auto wireless works perfectly using headunit reloaded app. And torque app runs all the sensor monitors no problem using a cheap ELM Bluetooth OBD dongle.
I will second that. However, the one I used was TechSmart brand, which is the same power supply BulletProof sells on their website. It’s been rock solid for me for about 70k miles or so.
TechSmart R76001 Diesel Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NBPBQTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A4J279ETNS605B13SABC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If it stays the same no matter the RPMs or boost I would start looking at pulley, fan/fan clutch, water pump etc. could also be a electric hum if you have an aftermarket radio.
Get you a stethoscope and put it on parts running to see if you can find it. Lisle 52750 Stethoscope Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DLMOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_10661TDEKZFJYHDJEWDA
Just do a search on Amazon for "2015 f250 android car stereo" and filter it by compatability if you want... but it looks like you should be able to install anything "double din"
Search on YouTube and I'm sure you'll find plenty of ppl who installed them and may have better recommendations on a particular unit.
I went for this one...
10 Inch Android 11 Head Unit Car Stereo Compatible with Apple Carplay Android Auto+4G SM Card Slot/WiFi+GPS+BT, Double Din Car Radio Full AV Output + Mirror Link+ 3 USB (3G+32G with Carplay) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FNYYW3L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VVDVPGV4DC9K3HT8SNBR
10" not 7" screen so the back end will fit the double din size of the original stereo and the face will just sit on top an inch or so around the top of the dash panel. Should look just fine.
Saw this guy install a cheaper spec head unit also 10" and thought it didn't look to big or strange at all.
Buy this one, tried and true:
BAFX Products Android Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool for Cars & Trucks – for All OBD2 Protocols on All Consumer Vehicles 1996 & Newer https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XYEZWGX6P15ZBVMYYCS9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Alltrade 640912 Black 3 Ton, All-In-One Bottle Jack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003ULZGFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_NHESY6FSNZ41F6BKW5T4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have this, it fits behind the rear seat in the crew cab and has a pretty large footprint for use on soggy ground where bottle Jacks sink. The lock is decent too and nice to have more than hydraulics holding the truck up.
7.3's are pretty particular on using motorcraft ICP and CPS (few different ones, I use this with a cheapo backup in the glovebox) sensors. If it still runs bad w/ ICP unplugged, the ICP isn't your issue. But once you get the truck running I would recommend replacing the ICP with a motorcraft sensor, and keeping the other in you glovebox in case of an emergency. To be short, the aftermarket sensors are junk, short life span, and inaccurate readings, but work in a pinch.
I was going to go with ficmrepair for mine, but ended up buying just the power supply last August.
It’s the exact same power supply board that bullet proof diesel sells on their website and use in their ficms, so presumably it’s a good unit. Also cheaper on Amazon.
TechSmart R76001 Diesel Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NBPBQTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_GRFSQ332X7D09QYZ0997?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have about 75,000 miles on it and it’s been rock solid. I did upgrade to a 140 or 160 amp alternator at the same time but ficm injector voltage stays at 48.5, occasional fluctuation 47.5-49 volts as indicated by high/low peaks on my SCT X4. Might even buy another just to keep for a spare. Pretty easy to change.
I've been running Schaeffer's in mine since 2015. They're product is great, as well as their oil analysis. Nice to see what's happening inside my 7.3
You can go a crazy amount of miles between changes, but if you're obsessed with maintenance like me, I go around 8k between changes.
https://www.schaefferoil.com/heavy-duty-diesel-oils.html
Schaeffer Manufacturing Co. 0700CK4-006S SynShield Durability Advantage 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1-Gallon Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVXGSM7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_P3KXASMQE0206A3CKBZQ
They are butt connectors! The main difference here from any other crimp butt connector is that they're surrounded with heat shrink which is coated with a heat-melt glue on the inside. So when you shrink it, it forms a watertight seal with the wire insulation.
It's one of these. Lets me plug in the female end of an extension cord which powers my block heater, an on-board battery charger, and two shore power outlets I have installed in the dash (primarily to run a dehumidifier in the truck when it sits for prolonged periods, keep it from molding). For longer term plug-ins I just unplug the block heater and let it power the battery charger and outlets.
Flasher relay. Buy this.
Replacement walkthrough here. . Don’t skip the long-sleeve shirt and/or towel. You’ll see.
Yes, there is a modification but it’s super easy. You need to buy a part called the tailgate roller assembly for the 08+
Ford Genuine 4L3Z-83430B39-AA Tail Gate Roller Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G0OSZB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WEGN71RV2CB6Y1P5D236?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I did both of these for mine. But I went the Tymar cold air intake with Donaldson 85011 route.
Donaldson B085011 Filter https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JYL2DJW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E55AMJJ420X2QHVJAX33?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you want to do it properly and can't find a torque wrench that goes higher than the 400 Ft-Lbs you need, you can always get a torgue gauge:
https://smile.amazon.com/CHBC-Digital-1-5-1000nm-Microtorque-1-5-30nm-1/dp/B07H4H17HX/
That one has an option that goes up to 1000N*m, which is 737.5 Ft-Lbs
Agree with scanning your vehicle before we can make any further determination. If you have an android phone, you can download forscan from the play store and purchase this obdII scanner from Amazon which I happen to use and highly recommend:
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner & Code Reader - Engine Fault Code Reader Scanner - Compatible with all 1996 & newer vehicles for USA https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H9095G8DATK3GM7RPZQ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Same style of Ford diesel badge as on the 6.7 diesel, but it’s slightly different and says 7.3 without the B20. Link attached 7.3 Powerstroke Emblem
I have the Atoto A6 1G/16G
https://www.amazon.com/ATOTO-Double-Android-Navigation-Bluetooth/dp/B07B3TX6MF
if i did it again though, I would def spring for the more expensive one with more memory. Wardriving is actually fun. That being said, torque app works great on this headunit, with both bluetooth OBD2 (I have el cheapo BAFX one) and expensive USB ones like OBDLink. I got the USB one so I can use forscan and do injector contribution tests. Forscan works fine in linux with wine too.
I used dieseltechron's guide for setting up torque and getting a baseline for what values should be. I added some custom pids too, like one to show me the difference between ECT and EOT, and sound an alarm if it is in dangerous territory (>14degF)
I'm working on a little something to add additional gauges to torque, that are not included with the vehicle... like fuel pressure. Basically going to use ESP32 and a DAC and push data via bluetooth SPP to a torque plugin that can show the data on a gauge. I'm an E.E., so if anyone wants to help write the torque plugin, that would be sweet :)
If you have not bought the repair guide I highly recommend it. It has flaws, but it also has pictures and call outs. I have diagnosed a lot of stuff with it.
I also like them read it for fun, but I am weird.
I have an update, I was able to successfully download the free FORScan software and run an auto ABS bleed on the truck (which is a 99')! I have yet to attempt to fully bleed the brakes as I am still dealing with the no fuel no start issue (though I think I have that figured out) and we also had a family emergency this week that has monopolized the majority of my time and focus. But I ran the auto bleed sequence and I heard the pump actuate and the peddle responded as though some air was relieved from the system. So if you have access to a windows laptop and a OBDii wifi dongle it might get you sorted. I used this adapter (or one very similar to this one, I've had it for a long time) to conduct the ABS auto bleed. A lot better than the $200 I was about to spend on a scan tool. Hope this helps and I will update as soon as I get everything buttoned up and back on the road. Good luck.
OBDLink MX works with iOS, Android, or a computer with Bluetooth.
OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NTJG9D3MJR4ZYWJ51Z6C
Or OBDLink EX FORscan, which is usb.
OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081VQVD3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MK8QS8YDWV5JEAC1NFFH
I have both.
I do not mean to offend, but if you do not understand these components are or what they do, grab a buddy that does. All of these components are the same, no matter who sells them
A relay is a relay - grab one that catches your eye at an auto parts store.
project box can be anything that will fit it all.
a 22k ohm resistor is just that - ignore the radio shack part numbers and search by name.
This is when a cheap borescope comes in handy -- I don't use mine often but when I do need it, it makes identifying issues so much easier. And they're not expensive either:
This one right?
Picked them up on Amazon.
Grand General 33270 Chrome 5" Convex Blind Spot Mirror with "L" Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJKJ79K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NP9GBF2AAHZWXCK9HP1N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think I'd rather stick with the devil I know in the case and just replace the whole intersection.
Motorcraft- KH550 Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A2BBUC/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_P143F61X5XHDP8ZZCAYK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-403-Heater-Quick-Connect/dp/B000CIR1QQ
That looks close. But I really dont know too much about a 6.7 just at a glance as I dont own one. Is it for your heater core?
I love my new led bulbs, lights are wicked bright. Super easy to install. They improved my visibility 10 full and were a cinch to install. I’m actually seeing road signs better with these led low beams than I am with my high end halogen high beams! Love these so far.
Mine is H11, i am sure they have H13 for your trunk.
I purchased new led headlights for a 2012 Toyota Highlander. Bulbs match the filament position of the halogens that were replaced. The lights, once installed, are decently bright but still a huge upgrade nonetheless. The light levels out great and have a good wide spread that shouldn't blind other drivers. Good value for the price to replace all four lights at once. I'd recommend this product but not absolutely blown away. Overall, satisfied with this purchase and made my car look a whole lot newer. Mine are H11 bulbs, i am sure they have what you nedd.
No. Forscan may be able to modify the PCM but this is a purely mechanical system.
The blinker wire runs through a transistor or some shit which checks for a certain resistance, if it's too low or not there, then it says "this isn't working" and defaults itself to rapid flash to let you know it's out.
Easiest, fastest, cheapest fix? Buy a regular bulb. Or spend a bit more and splice in a led blinker resistor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4WWZOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_69N6YS97ZC0SSV1AJY4J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is your alternator charging your batteries? Also You need some diagnostic tools my friend. Fuel pressure test gauge from harbor freight. And then buy this
And download FORscan app (free) on a Bluetooth enabled laptop. You need to monitor your sensor feedback when the engine is running up until it shuts off. It will, at the very least, give you clues as to what’s wrong.
I have the same housings and used these bulbs and love them so far. Make sure they're clocked where the LED elements are at 3 and 9 when you install them or you won't have the proper beam cut off and you'll blind everyone.
https://www.amazon.com/SEALIGHT-Headlight-Ultra-thin-Headlights-Conversion/dp/B08CMN3NL2
I understand Enough of what it does wich leaves ne with a question im sure you can answer. Would it be an issue with me living on the east coast and having really cold days/mornings if i deleted it? Or does it actually not really affect it that much.
Ive definitely been lookin around the past few years at good pipes, just all comes to material its made of and price is what im seeing.
Thank you for your suggestions ive definitely heard MBRP is really affordable and Diamond eye has better quality.
What do you think of this delete? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07D2881W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aS2-FbEKKX1CH
Oh wow! Same thing happened to my 99’ f-250. It’s the cam position sensor I’m almost 100% sure. Very common problem, especially if it runs fine in dry weather. We had the same symptoms and after putting in a new sensor, the problem went away.
This is the part
Ford Genuine F4TZ-12K073-C Camshaft Position Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H1IRTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_-.06Fb6JMX2QQ
If all you want is Bluetooth may I suggest a Bluetooth FM transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018E0I01I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glc_fabc_Ib6YFb3XYWAXD I run one in my 2004 and it works great with my droid or apple
I put a Sony touchscreen unit in my 2003 SD, works great.
Sony XAV-AX5000 7” Apple Car Play, Android Auto, Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CB3CB1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_YAOYFbMB0Q69W
Thanks that helps a ton! Any annoying squeaks or anything?
Does this kit look like what you used?
Did you use the stock bolts or the bolts from the hardware kit?
I got these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGN1KQL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
for the 6.0 (Sealed beam). They're pretty good, nice cutoff line and bright brights. Plugs right in.
Forgot it was an econoline and not a superduty.
According to their website, this is the one you need.
https://gofia.com/product/wf922-3/
And here it is on Amazon for only 15 bucks. Not sure why it's so cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/WF922-3-Custom-Winter-Front-Screen/dp/B002YPJFKU
If you google the part number for the 'waste gate solenoid' it comes up as a Dorman part number for the VGT solenoid via Amazon
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https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-Variable-Geometry-Turbocharger/dp/B00Z7NRJF4
Here's the STC kit on Amazon $43.00 - Use GENUINE FORD ONLY, trust me... it's way too much work to use cheap parts. These aren't too bad either, it's the labor that costs but if you DIY in a weekend you'll save a lot.
Here's the standpipes (Bulletproof diesel) - $165.38 These are Ford parts as well, they just make them available as a kit. They upgrade your dummy plugs to a bigger size as well, they are redesigned with new seals too that shouldn't fail again. (at least for a couple hundred thousand miles.)
If you've done an EGR delete then the repair will go SO MUCH EASIER when you have to remove the valley plate to get to the HPOP / STC fitting.
Good luck!
I tried these ones from Amazon and were simply toooooo bright in my 2019 F250. No matter how I aimed them, I was constantly being flashed by other drivers -- and not the topless kind of flashing either. :D
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHCQ8KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I might try some lower level lumens type lights but after tinkering with them for two weeks, I just gave up and went back to the halogens.
I did 2008 mirrors from amazon, they fit fine but I did have to cut a small plastic tab off. I haven’t tried to wire them up yet because I’m a lazy bastard. Amazon Mirrors on my truck
I have one. I love it. It's expensive.
List of upgrades: - head gaskets - ARP studs - EGR delete - radiator - other smaller stuff cost: ~$5200 (parts and labor)
- PowerMaxx turbo (turbo is a little laggy...but HUGE improvement over stock turbo) cost: ~$1100 (parts)
Air bags suspension: (left my leafsprings, added these bags) cost: ~$500 (parts) (amazon link)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FEOPTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]
Air compressor (on board): cost: ~$200 (parts) (amazon link)[https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00017YYI6/ref=pe_2557400_229219060_em_1p_5_ti]
It's honestly the best tow vehicle for the money. Fits everyone and everything.
A mild tune, straight pipe, and good filters and fluids, and good tires. I wouldnt recommend much else tbh.
I have been using this recently though:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MG04D7S/
I think it makes it run slightly better.
RAM Mount for phone.
Bed tie downs? If he doesn't have them already
Window tints but that's more his choice because tints level matters.
-
Aside from tiny little things like that I feel like the rest should be his choice unless he's not as picky as me.
Hidden kill switch. The old high beam switch on the floor high left of the clutch pedal. Find them on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-DS70T-Dimmer/dp/B004C0LSW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1HNUEPACIZB09&dchild=1&keywords=high+beam+floor+switch&qid=1592235437&sprefix=high+beam+floor+sw%2Caps%2C313&sr=8-3
Yes, lite is not actually lite though, it's fully interactive. The Windows version is free if you have a laptop.
I don't know if this link will work, but it's the BAFX Bluetooth dongle on Amazon
afx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_iu.UEbRBG3PX8
I just did my whole front end about a month ago. XRF tie rod ends, drag link and ball joints. Put in a 3" lift kit at the same time so I also installed a Rough Country adjustable track bar. 06 F350 6.0 CCLB
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A lot of good tips in this thread but some things to mention about the track bar if you choose to do that too. If it's never been replaced then that ball joint on the passenger side will be a pain, you need a 9" ball joint press and a second set of hands. I ended up having to rent a kit from Advance Auto to get the right size cup and ordering a 9" clamp/press off Amazon for $80. You're also going to want a strong 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to tighten the clamp, with a LONG pipe for leverage. It took everything in me with a 5' pipe on my ratchet.
The nut on the bottom of that ball joint is also torqued to 186 ft-lbs and the driver side is torqued to 406 ft-lbs, I didn't have anything to torque that high and broke a snap-on breaker bar in the process so I just asked the alignment place if they could torque them down for me.
I will do this as well. I dont know what type I should buy though. Google isnt helping me out much because I really don't know what I'm looking at. I found this one on Amazon that says will fit my truck.
100% agreed!
I bought the BAFX (Android or Windows mobile device only), Amazon link here, alongside the Torque Pro app. Can't go wrong, and gets me all that I need for diagnostic :)
Very good info, buddy!
You can run a coolant that has SCA's already in it or you can just run standard coolant and buy the SCA separate and add it yourself. You need to check the concentration regardless to make sure it is still good. They sell kits with litmus paper and a gauge to check concentration. Genuine Ford Fluid VC-8 Diesel Cooling System Additive - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU3LPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUeYCbFY5JCE8
It should be a 3 pin connector cylindrical in shape. Should look something like this
https://www.amazon.com/1850353C2-Exhaust-Pressure-Pigtail-Connector/dp/B0192I70Z8
​
Should be on the LH side of the engine, near camshaft pulley. The connector should be part of the harness bundle with multiple other connections . I would start at the camshaft position sensor connector and work my way up from there
​
Good luck!
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You can buy or rent a power steering pulley tool. I bought one on Amazon for $40.00. There isn't anything unique to the pulley on the 7.3; you can rent the same tool for next to nothing at a parts store.
I have this Viper remote start/keyless entry/alarm.
The installer can set it up many different ways, including duration to fire flow plugs before starting and duration to leave it running (to cool the turbo) after exiting the vehicle.
This is a one-way remote system: the remote sends a command to the truck, but the truck doesn't communicate back to the remote to show any kind of status. Two-way remotes are available, and can display if a door is left open, window is broken, remote start failed, etc.
This one can be set up to start the engine and idle for a while if your battery drops below a certain voltage. Handy if you leave it in a parking garage for a couple weeks, you won't come back to a dead truck.
I like the system. The remote is durable and slim and works really far away. The remote chirps to let you know it is sending a signal, and the vehicle chirps to let you know the signal was received. The chirps can be silenced if you want.
My 1997 obs powerstroke needed some additional relays added to the power locks (which are powered through the door switch, and not through a relay) before the installation could be completed. Car Toys did it in a day. It wasn't cheap. Insist that they solder everything, or take it elsewhere. They need to make it look factory quality under the dash.
I've had mine for about a year now. Love it!
The FICM is a common problem. This video has a start and run with a bad FICM and how to test it. https://youtu.be/eNrMiYLZ5jw
If the FICM is your problem, replacement boards can be had on Amazon by dorman for as little as $111 if you need it quick and your local shops dont have one. Dorman 904-229 Fuel Injection Control Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008720YYA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QcExvb0P8ZXND This isn't your only option regarding FICM's, but I know repairs can be a fix it now without costing a fortune kind of things and I think this is one cheap and fast options. Good luck.
And I doubt you got air in the lines. Air doesn't magically work its way in the lines if it was running fine when parked then start up nasty. You have something going on.