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That's the end link for your stabiliser (anti-sway) bar. Without it the car won't corner properly so it's important to get it fixed quickly. I can't speak for the cost of the replacement part, but there's a howto here.

There's also more fuel being burned at the same time as it tries to maintain an efficient A/F ratio. Quite a few people drive city and don't have a heated garage. There's lots of idling happening for many drivers.

If the leak is on the interior, there is a thing called a heater core. When this goes bad, you have a coolant leak in the inside of the car. The heater core is typically located behind the dash somewhere or in the front passenger footwell. Here is a DIY replacement guide. :)

A number of factors are involved in your loss of gas mileage. The first being Winter gasoline. The second is the drop in barometric pressure. The third involves your own catalyst system, this is a balancing act between air and fuel, the fuel to air ratio which is 14.7:1. Since the atmosphere is more dense with colder temps the system is in effect running leaner, since it's getting more air in the same amount of space, to compensate for this the system adds more fuel. These are some of the main reasons your mpg decreases in the winter time.

You will never go wrong buying a Pirelli tire , the Pirelli P6 Four Seasons Plus are a good choice from that link. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/tires-auto-parts/tires/tire-buying-advice/tire-brands/tire-brands.htm

Generally for that kind of connection, you'll have a male and female end where the black and red wires switch so red is always hot and black is always ground. Dig this picture from Amazon with the same style of connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Pc160-Gauge-Quick-Disconnect-Harness/dp/B006ZOIJ0S

Also, here's a link to the pictures I took of the damage if it'll help give you a better idea of the damage to my car:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=3C1D9AECF0AD9723!464830&authkey=!AIHVgdhhWhCU_n8&ithint=folder%2cjpg

First check your fuses relating to the fuel pump. There should be a description of each fuse on the underside of the cover. Next you should locate the fuel pump relay and listen if it clicks while you try to start the car.

Chances are your family's car was not stored properly. This means that no one took the time to pour some fuel stabilizer in the tank. Your fuel pump may be plugged up beyond repair. You can take a test light to the connector that plugs into your fuel pump, if you can access it rather easily, and have someone crank the car off and on and see if you have power during cranking.

"When gasoline is not stored correctly and is left for a period of time, gums and varnishes may build up and precipitate in the gasoline, causing "stale fuel". This may cause gums to build up in the fuel tank, lines, and carburetor or fuel injection components, making it harder to start the engine. Upon the resumption of regular vehicle usage, though, the buildups should eventually be cleaned up by the flow of fresh petrol. A fuel stabilizer may be used to extend the life of the fuel that is not or cannot be stored properly." taken from Wikipedia.

Here's a link describing how to gain access to the fuel pump in your car.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4795001_change-subaru-impreza-fuel-pump.html

They looked like this

I think that's in a RAM pickup. There is a button for hot or cold above them.

Those are known as Brake Spring Locking Pliers.

Here are some on Amazon - they're not especially cheap.

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EDIT - Actually that first link I posted might just be a tool for compressing springs, whereas the tool in the video is for spreading. I can't find an exact match, but here's something similar

Your battery is most likely dead. If you can get a ride and have a few simple tools, pull the battery and take it to pretty much any auto parts store and they can test and charge it for you.

They key thing is going to be tricky, Your Impala uses something called a transponder key, meaning, it has a chip in it that needs to be programmed to the vehicle. IF you can recover the key that physically fits the ignition, you'll have to make a copy of it with an appropriate blank (google "2008 chevy impala transponder key"), here is programming instructions for the newly cut key WITH transponder:

http://www.programautokeys.com/classified/DisplayAd.asp?id=312

If you can order a blank yourself, and have a locksmith cut the blank ($5.00 tops), and program it yourself following the instructions above, you'll save about $200 the dealer is going to charge to do the very same thing.

This place sells blanks w/ instructions in how to program it:

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Chevrolet-Impala-Transponder-Ignition/dp/B00BSI17A0

Oh dang i was just about to comment that i ended up finding this amazon link to what i found in car But this says passkey so the guy working on this before must not have known. Dang i thought i was saved for a sec ughhhh

Just a follow-up, I bought a Battery Tester (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T1DMM4W/) and tested my battery myself after letting the car sit overnight. Sure enough it indicated the battery was dying.

I am a little shocked the person testing at the garage did not take surface charge into account, and that they used a product that would be tricked by surface charge... I mean shouldn't they have a product better than the average consumer product? Like something that actually does load testing and not just resistance testing?

Anyways, I replaced the battery myself, and no problems since.

Thank you for pointing me in the correct direction.

Not even $200, if it takes a normal key you can use a Compustar CS920-S

I’ve personally used these, they’re great for the money and don’t have issues. You can then use a Idatalink ALCA for the immobilizer bypass, it just takes as a key being in the ignition.

This is what you should use, my guy.

Honestly, an OBD2 scanner is so cheap you might as well save yourself the hassle of having to go to the store and any potential damage you might cause from the drive over.

They're about $20-60 bucks, and even the cheapest one will work fine for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Scanner-Reader-Diagnostic-Protocol-Leekooluu/dp/B0919L1NV9/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3IG7II8UASLTV&keywords=OBD2+scanner&qid=1647900827&sprefix=obd2+scanner%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-8

I actually found one on Amazon for about the same price. WTF was this guy trying to sell me the $500 assembly for…

NEW BT4Z-14450-AA Positive Battery Terminal Clamp w NUTS https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ32272/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XBC4ME4HRQ8S124HS0P0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I hit a deer on Monday and it's $500 thanks to my insurance, but I have comprehensive. You should check e-bay for headlights though. Lots of good deals...

Headlight from wrecked Xterra on ebay

My run in with the deer

WAIT!

check your fluid level first. I had the same problem with my 95 civic. I must have a small leak somewhere because I was having the same issue and now I just add a very small amount every oil change and it hasn't given me any problems.

I know this isn't really fixing the problem, but for a 1995 vehicle worth around $1000 is it really worth it?

Edit: Link for instructions

http://www.ehow.com/how_7677_check-fluid-hydraulic.html

Probably better to have the same tires on all 4 wheels, something about the tread working together, but you might be able to get away with it.

If you have the money, don't skimp on the tires, get a decent set of trusted brands. Good tires will save you a lot of trouble in the long run including fuel economy and safety.

Generally you can tell if your tire is getting close to wearing out by checking the tread indicator, which is a small bar probably in the centre tread which when you are close to reaching generally means start looking for a new tire. Have a read: http://www.ehow.com/how_2175718_use-tread-wear-indicators.html .

When you do get new tires fitted make sure you keep them inflated to the correct pressure or you will shorten their lifespan and reduce their effectiveness.

Since the front-crash tests performed by NHTSA and IIHS simulate a collision between two vehicles of the same weight and height, the scores don't apply to crashes between mismatched vehicles. In a crash between a big car and a small one, you're usually better off in the big car. In such cases, the larger, heavier vehicle projects more of its crash energy into the smaller one. This, in turn, helps to better protect the larger vehicle's occupants, but it can inflict proportionately more injury to the occupants of the smaller vehicle. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2011/08/crash-test-101/index.htm

Sorry to be so annoying but what about this?!: https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-11950-Universal-Towing-Mirror/dp/B00029WRKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mirror+temporary&qid=1605654123&sr=8-4

sure. ive never used any myself and it seems like jsut a damaged nut remover tool, but its supposed to work https://www.amazon.ca/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=wheel+lock+removal+tool&qid=1602350406&sr=8-10

Well, If you can match colored wires together it should only cost you around $11.99 plus tax.

You can get an ELM 327 for $10 and it works with the Torque App that is available for $5.

The number of points refers to the inside gripping surface of the socket.

12 points is more “flexible” in how it can be attached, but 6 point is stronger. I would likely prefer strong in something that large.

One other thing to consider is the material the socketbis made from. “Impact” sockets are built strong to remove stubborn bolts.

Also for automotive applications i would usually buy a deep socket. Not a shallow one.

My choice in this situation would be:

TEKTON 47794 1/2-Inch Drive by 1-Inch Deep Impact Socket, Cr-V, 6-Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPXK2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kD3FDbC4SAP57

If your man’s friend can keep a secret, you might ask what he has in order to get exactly what he already borrows though. Similarly you can look at his current kit and buy the same brand/style.

Good job with a solid gift. I hope he gives you the same thought.

Autozone and other similar shops do it for free if you have one around.

Otherwise, I bought this for $30 and the $10 app: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW

Does way more than read codes too.

I got a Noco GB40 from Canadian Tire. Ive used it to jump two cars for a total of 7 jumps. Ive only recharged it once now. It cost more, $125, and only has one USB port, but its been great https://www.amazon.ca/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC

So, we are talking driver's side door? How does the key work in the passenger side door? fine?

WD40 in my experience is a terrible product to use on locks, especially in a humid environment like Houston. You want to use a product that is specifically designed for locks. WD40 is a water displacement product and shouldn't really be used for lubrication. I find that it gunks up locks.

Try this, it works great: https://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA

Sorry,I can not help but I recomment you the leather steering wheel cover for your 2007 Accord. It is an custom steering wheel cover :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QIBQ93C I fund a coupon that you can save your money just enter :XD62-XP5HD5-TQ2PYL at checkout

Lol

Your reply is extremely helpful! Thank you so much.

I found this part on amazon. Tempted to buy it but I'm wondering if it is the complete assembly, like what you're saying. It doesn't really look like it has the top plate to me but I don't know.

You can go old school walkman style. http://www.amazon.com/Craig-Electronics-CS2301A-Personal-Headphones/dp/B0081I1UJS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1453780040&sr=1-4&keywords=portable+cassette+player

Just plug a cable from the headphone jack to the aux.

Good advice on here, but if you're just starting and want to be doing it for a long time with less hassle look h6ere: Powerbuilt (647570) Oil/Fluid Extractor - 6.3 Quart Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OCEGONC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_sXBdwb0RPC6SR

I've used mine on 5 different cars with no problem. No worries about the plug, no jacks or ramps unless you can't get to the filter otherwise. Also can be used to bleed brakes and change trans fluid and suck out a little if you overfill. Fun to change mowers and boat motors too. You can even suck all oil out for a serious repair and put it back in.

I can do an oil change in nice clothes or the dead of a Chicago winter without a problem.

Look up topside oil change on google. Preferred method for bmw and Mercedes. This is a relabel of the pella 6000 and a mini version of the mittyvac used by small repair shops. Don't get the metal version called the topsider, reviews say they (don't) suck.

An Exedy OEM clutch for this car is about $120. Unless the flywheel is absolutely trashed you can have it resurfaced for about $75 at most part stores. If it is trashed you can get a new one for less than $100. Clutch master and slave cylinder should run somewhere around $100-$150 depending on brand you get. Call around to friends and see if any have a decent shade tree mechanic they can reccomend that can do it cheaper if you order the parts. A good shade tree mechanic should do it for about $350-$500 depending on how fast you need it done.

I added a picture of the sort of valve I'm talking about, but it doesn't look like much, just a rubber center. I found a special socket for it, but I'm not sure it's really worth the money and wait for it to come because I still can't hold the line in place without making some sort of tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-98234-Socket/dp/B002YKK234

I'll probably just grind thin, and bend to fit, a couple cheap 16mm wrenches tonight.

if you find a headliner for the car your only bet will be from the wreckers. chances are it will have issues too. new, youre looking at hundreds.

my suggestion is to get some fabric from fabricland and a can of 3M spray glue. remove existing headliner, pull off old fabric, spray glue on, apply new fabric, reinstall

http://www.amazon.ca/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

When the headliner started dropping on my old Dodge pickup i used thumbtacks to hold it up :)

I've read here previously that these things are what thieves use to steal wheels. Pretty cheap, too - you could probably find one at your local auto parts store or wherever you can buy tools.

I have the Slime COMP06 Pro Power Heavy-Duty 12-Volt Tire Inflator. Super quiet and really fast. My dad has one that works, but literally takes 10+ minutes to get a tire from 15 to 35 PSI. This one is probably the same as the Vlair one you linked. Dimensionally and the bar is the same.

As far as reliability, these have very great reviews on Amazon. Mine came in a canvas-like sack with a bunch of connectors. Definitely doesn't feel like a throw-away piece of hardware. Though take this with a grain of salt because I've only used mine twice. But I do recommend this one.

Just make sure your lighter outlet has a 15 Amp fuse. If you keep blowing fuses, you might need to wire up directly to the battery.

Just get something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Head-Up-Display-Speedometer-quick-installation/dp/B005X4QCAA/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

They are easy to install and use GPS for your speed.

Sorry im on mobile and couldn't format the link

I just did mine and wish I would have done a before and after. This is the only product you need. You apply it like wax and buff it off. Mine look brand new.

http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-725-Headlight-Lens-Restorer/dp/B001PH0WUU

I used a Goo Gone Pen See Here

The applicator's tip seemed like it would be soft enough to be safe. I was wrong.

Do you think this is a good starting point?

I have had this tool set for at least 5 years and it has been great.

I find myself coming back to it constantly. Mainly because everything is kept together and it's easy to move around. Yes, I have more tools if I need something unique, but this handles most jobs.

$15 tire patch kit from your auto-parts store, and this Black & Decker ASI300 Air Station Inflator

From my experience, Ford has been good about providing a test port on the fuel rail, so you will need a fuel pressure gauge and you connect it to the fitting on the fuel rail. Looks like 15~20psi is about right. Don't quote me on that. Sometimes some auto parts store loan out tools for free under the idea that you will be buying parts from them so you could try that route.

this is the tool I use

Wow.. thanks so much for the help.

I couldn't find the same set on the .com site, but I found this.

I'll get the other tools as needed.

I used a Goo Gone Pen See Here

The applicator's tip seemed like it would be soft enough to be safe. I was wrong.

The old beast isn't going anywhere. Actually part of the problem is that it just sits there under a cover. My wife keeps telling me to just sell it if I am not going to do anything with it. I also have a 12 year old son that is counting down the years until he turns 16. That is another issue altogether.

I have just been unsure of the parts to get to fix it. I think this thread has solved that issue :) ! My uncertainty on what to buy has caused a drop in motivation, but I've been redditing for a while now and only recently became aware of the auto and mustang subreddits.

I do plan on getting me a book on the engine. Do you think this is a good one?

Thanks a lot for all your input.

If it's not too far away you could run the car without the alternator. Or you could order something like this (you can probably find cheaper ones, search around).

Did you call the dealer for help? If the nuts came with the car they might have those keys in stock.