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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/FocusST:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/FocusST:
Facebook Marketplace
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Amazon
OfferUp
Gumtree
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Spotify
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/FocusST:
Car Home Ultra
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The most popular reviews in /r/FocusST:
If you're a sweaty guy (or gal😉) you need to pick this up now. Greatly reduces swamp ass and you won't look like you ran a marathon from behind. Only comes in orange though.
Most guys including myself run a green filter like the one here(not an affiliate link) Green Filter. This with the airbox lid off will give you tons of turbo noises, even more so if you remove the insulation on the underside of the hood. Not going to get much performance gain from intakes, but the turbo noises are well worth it in my book
Amazon. Only $624 with prime. Great deal for CAI and exhaust. Roush sells the exhaust alone for 655 on their site amazon kit
Not sure on better or worse brands of them than. I used these though. They felt like, and worked like quality
Thanks😅 I used Meguiars DA polisher, link for it is here: Polisher And the polishes I used were also from meguairs, I used the ultimate compound, liquid wax, and ultimate polish:
I use whatever is on sale. Usually ends up being Mobil 1 or penzoil.
I also use the motorcraft FL 400s filter. Cheap on Amazon. Still not expensive at the auto parts store.
Motorcraft FL400S Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS3D42/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_japtAb361TK7B
That filter is what mountune recommends for our cars https://www.mountuneusa.com/Motorcraft-Oil-Filter-FL-400-S-Focus-ST-Fiesta-ST-p/fl-400s.htm
Android auto can now run on any android phone or tablet above lollipop as in the interface itself on the device no head unit needed https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.projection.gearhead&hl=en
Absolutely DO NOT leave it. Even if it gets blown out of the engine through the exhaust valve it will get blown right into your turbo and do catastrophic damage to the turbo which then could send bits into the engine and destroy it too.
There are tools made for grabbing stuff that you can't reach/see like this
3.5 years so far on these with no issues in my 17 ST1.
BEAMTECH H11 LED Bulb, 12000LM 50W Fanless In Line H8 H9 Halogen Replacement 6500K Xenon White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHDYTGL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_93JCA2CPE7PRYBF35PPH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Gasket
Ticon Industries - 2 Bolt MLSG High Temp Exhaust Gasket 3" I.D. (Qty 1) - Heavy Duty - 120-07610-0001 (3 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWSBU58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NA91Q38270VVT2AB6JHJ
Hardware
Dorman 03423 Exhaust Manifold Hardware Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181H22YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_96N1J7FPJ93NFPEA3E7P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They frequently go in and out of stock, but it's a good deal.
I've also read that Woosh makes a good one that's not much more expensive.
You can use the stock charge pipes with most FMICs, except Cobb's I believe. I'd also recommend a set of T-bolt hose clamps to replace the terrible stock ones.
I’ve been using these for the past 3 years.
McGard 84538 Black (M12 x 1.5 Thread Size) Bulge Style Cone Seat Wheel Installation Kit for 5-Lug Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIX1PNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VqedGbHPFWT0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would get an ethanol tester like this and see the true content every month or two. This will allow for much more accurate fills. For example the E85 I use is actually E73
You cannot make the screen permanent without an OBD II reader, but you can access the splash screen by going into the testing settings of Sync 3 (hold down track forward & eject), bypass the speaker test screen, then press Testing Settings, then change the theme to Ford-ST. When you power down your car it'll show, but upon startup it'll go back to the default Ford-timeless theme.
As far as I know the only way to make the change permanent is to change the hex value in Forscan. I was able to change it with this OBD II reader from Amazon. With that being said, the version of Sync 3 v2.2 going around the internet is not the official release so the one that is finally released to the public may have the ST logo enabled by default.
You can't really disable it, but I had the same problem at my condo complex. 8 bucks on Amazon will get you a Faraday bag which blocks the RF signal from the key. Always, always, always keep your keys in one.
It's an FSWERKS CAI. I bought it on Amazon. 30 feet for $44. Called DEI reflectagold
Edit: here's the link DEI 010397 Reflect-A-GOLD High-Temperature Heat Reflective Adhesive Backed Roll, 2" x 30' Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039Z1V1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jf.vzb02TZG1F
30 feet was just enough for the top tube, and the entire heat shield. Had 6" left over.
Here ya go: Amazon link to blue LEDs
They fit right in and work wonderfully! Super cheap, maybe I'll get some red and white ones too to do a USA light show every time I open the doors
i went with cardId they had the best price. but there is no image on their page. i was able to confirm they were the smoke/grey by the part number compared to the amazon product listing
Why didn't you just buy them from Amazon and get them in 2 days with Prime?
Available on Amazon and other places too probably
I used motul dct fluid. It takes 1.8qts. I got 2 qts on Amazon for like $40ish bucks. If you decide to do it, make sure you get a pump of some sort with it. It would have been damn near impossible to try to pour it from the bottle. Even with their funnel extension thing that comes off the top.
I ended up having to loosen my rear motor mount and kinda swinging the transmission out of the way to get my 8mm Allen key socket to fit, and then fit a wrench over the rest of the bit to get it to work. It sounds a lot more difficult than it is, but trust me. It's worth it. There are a few videos on YouTube that show what I mean pretty well. Seems like most people use a shortened Allen key, but I didn't have anything to cut an Allen key
Just make sure you keep the car level. I used a jack and jack stands and it worked well.
Motul Multi DCTF - Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N30M7S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_BDfTo3WyYlhH1
I actually found one on amazon by a company called VXMotor. I couldn't bring myself to pay $150 for other brands and theirs was only around $60. For that price I figured I’d give it a shot and I’m pretty happy with it.
Edit: If you're interested here is what I got: https://www.amazon.com/VXMOTOR-Spoiler-Riser-Extender-Hatchback/dp/B01NCZLAUY/ref=pd_ybh_a_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TG2566VC53FM9GW68EVS
Open ended oiled filter. Seen them in the $40 range on Amazon occasionally. Not much performance gain but the noise is good for miles of smiles.
Get Race Ramps. They work perfectly for cars with splitters or slightly lowered. They don't slide like Rhino ramps either. I love them
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZAGI9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You should buy T-Bolt hose clamps for the charge pipes, 2 M6 x 1.0mm nylon lock nuts (I bought this pack and have a ton of extras), and a flat metal washer to fit around the MAP sensor bolt to prevent the plastic from cracking over time.
I also ended up needing to buy 2 of the mounting bolts that you're supposed to re-use, since I had to drill mine out. Seems to be fairly common if you live anywhere that sees salt.
Other than that, pay close attention when you're taking off the bumper and stock FMIC. It all goes together fairly easily though. You should leave the grill shutters out!! Definitely read the Depo install instructions (although they're not the best lol) and watch a couple YouTube videos before you attempt it.
Good luck! It's honestly a fun mod to install IMO. Took me and a buddy a few hours, but it was all worth it when I did a test drive while the bumper was off haha
If you're concerned, I say go for it now. Tons of us have changed earlier, personal preference really.
There are a good amount of tutorials on YT and the forums. Also go for the 2 pack of Motul DCTF on Amazon: Motul Multi DCTF - Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N30M7S2/
Are you limited to air vent clips? I use the magic mount with the base that sticks to any place you put it. It's the one I recommend to everyone
Since you're catless you probably need a defouler with different sized inserts.
Or your could try the Denso rear o2 sensor that gets recommended on the FocusST.org forums. Not sure how well that one works with catless DPs though.
Alla Lighting H11 H8 LED Bulbs 3000K Golden Yellow Xtreme Super Bright Fog Light DRL High Power 3030 SMD Replacement for Cars ,Trucks, SUVs, Vans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N67FMQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RFFBZEY2C7B14FBQHHM5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the ones I have, pretty bright, pretty cheap, and have lasted a long time for me
There is also these on Amazon, they are like 10 bucks more, but they deliver a hell of a lot faster. I have them and they work great.
I got these and they seem to be staying on and fit well for me. Looks like the same style as OP
dang! I'm scared to look at mine. I bought these from amazon for $25 and they stayed on with some locktite on the threads:
There is no good pic of the bevel on the other side, but google images show some decent bevel
Hey, right on. If you trust the brand and it’s reasonably priced, hit it.
3M has a good product.
FORscan and FoCCCus are the two that most people use.
I've personally used FORscan a few times and it's a bit easier to use than FoCCCus, but I believe they can both do roughly the same things.
As long as your OBD adapter is able to switch between low/high speeds, it should work. If not, you may need a new one. This is the one I bought for $18 that works perfectly.
Im running these. I never ran stock fog bulbs so I cant compare but they are similar to the previous leds I had in terms of brightness. if you have a 2015+(not sure if pre facelift is similar) you can save some time replacing the bulbs. you dont need to pull the bumper or the headlights or any other bs most guys on the forums say to do. the plastic cover surrounding the fog pops out with a trim tool and then there are 3 torx bolts holding the fog housing in. way easier than taking the whole damn car apart like some people seem to do
Yeah I run Motul 8068HL RBF 600. If you're going to swap your fluid, you'll need about 1L of fluid to do the job. I boiled the OEM fluid on my first track day, so if you're going to be doing autox I would imagine you'll run into similar problems.
Here's an Amazon link to what I ended up buying. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice! Also consider a light kit if you don't currently have a solution for that. Here is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RNH6KD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8fK.Fb76K8Z78?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you are planning on only towing a bike you should have no issues but make sure to check the max load and tongue weight just in case. It's not a car designed with towing in mind but just wanting to share that my experience over the past 2 years has been positive.
>be sure to use stainless steel anti seize, like copper.
NGK specifically recommends NOT using anti-seize with their plugs. NGK plugs already have a special plating so you don't need it. Anti-seize can also alter torque when installing. [source]
>I like the coin style ones.
I personally find that the coin-style ones aren't good enough if you want correctly gap your plugs, but that's more of a personal preference thing I guess. If you're comfortable using them, I can't knock ya for it haha. I find the blade style gappers to be easier to use and more accurate.
I personally replaced all my red under tray nuts with the white version, and they are 1000% better. I don’t remember the Ford part number offhand, but it’s the same white nuts that are used to secure the intercooler AGS shroud.
Another option are these. I haven’t personally used them, but they’re well-rated and appear to be copies of the Ford white nuts.
Link is below! Thank you!
IKON MOTORSPORTS, Universal B Style Front Bumper Lip Chin Splitter Spoiler Air Dam Carbon Fiber Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083XDGYPJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Qh-4FbE6HCFGS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It seems to last very long and work well compared to others. I bought a can and plan on applying it eventually. Haven't done anything other than touchless washes with underbody sprays. That seems to work great.
Motul DCTF is a great replacement. Many owners say their shifting is much smoother for a few weeks after changing to that.
Nah I've owned it since 2018 and haven't yet, and I know the previous owner that lived up the street from me also didn't coat it.
I did buy some CRC 6026 to spray whenever I feel like it haha, maybe when I install my downpipe. That seems to be one that actually prevents existing rust from spreading while also lasting a long time through underbody pressure washes to prevent rust further - that's all I do, get a touchless wash once a week or so when the salt is bad.
Yes, many performance air filters are oiled so they can trap more bad stuff while still providing extra air.
Be careful, each brand will have its own oil usually. Like the Green filter also has a cleaning/recharge kit.
Looks like the Maxton Designs spoiler extension
Edit: also available currently on Amazon
purchased mine from Amazon because, free prime shipping.
I bought this on Amazon because I was trying to figure out where to keep my phone since I use Waze 24/7. I thought dash would be best but I found the phone to be too obtrusive to the view. The vent mount is what I'm running now, on the passenger's center vent. It's working...meh. It's not the permanent placement yet
it’s a scene scene from Amazon I found a guy on our fb group who ordered one and they shipped him two so he sold it for 50% off
They're nice filters. Super cheap on amazon with next day shipping as an add-on item. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL400S-Oil-Filter/dp/B000AS3D42/
That, with full synthetic oil at $28, makes my oil change just over $31.
Sounds like they're some sort of synthetic leather in the Amazon listing. https://www.amazon.com/Worth-Mats-Weather-Leather-Waterproof-2012-2018/dp/B01L73NKXM
They look quite nice; I'm still using the stock cloth mats in my car as I didn't want rubber ones(I drive barefoot most of the time). I might have to give these a try; I do wish they sold just the front set though.
These right here from amazon - Cuztom Tuning 3D STYLE SMOKE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010JRKZ12?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. They’re alright, mostly got them for aesthetics but they do help when I’d like to get some fresh air driving in the rain or other situations.
Congrats on the ST. I’ve had mine for 6 years and still love driving it! Do a trans oil drain/refill and adjust the shifter cables. It’s easy, and the trans oil drain should really be done more like 20-30K miles anyway so if you bought used it’s likely due. Also, short throw shift arms typically make it slightly more difficult to get into reverse, but it should be more of “it just requires a little extra omph” vs it’s not actually going it I gear some attempts.
Use this for the new trans fluid: Motul Multi DCTF - Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid (Pack of 2)
haha I know, I totally forgot I had turned them off previously. The roof rack is this one right here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCLKJD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's not too bad, I've had it for about a year or two now. I ended up completely ignoring the recommended settings for it because it didn't fit well on the roof and I had to keep adjusting it to make sure it stayed put, but once you have it in a good spot it doesn't move at all and hasn't caused me any issues. I haul two 10ft kayaks pretty frequently with it and it's nice being able to take it off in the winter versus having something drilled into the roof.
I went with the 2.5 Magnaflow catback over the MBRP. Zero drone at cruising. Not obnoxiously loud but still noticeable when flogging the car.
Torque Pro. Essentially it give you a deeper insight to your engine, and allows you to overlay information on a video feed. It is a nice complement if you ever want to record the performance of your car on a track day / quarter mile strip.
Reading deeper into this, you need the ODBII wirless adapter, for Torque to function correctly. I was hoping that it had the capacity to directly interface into the ODB without the need for the adapter.
Definitely possible. You just need the Maestro Dash Kit and T-Harness. It's universal so it will work with either the PFL or facelift.
I bought these and am currently sealing them extra with 100% silicone. Cheap but surprisingly decent reviews. https://www.amazon.com/ACANII-Projector-Headlights-Headlamps-Passenger/dp/B07QZTKGFZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=24CVC3HI6S22N&keywords=2013+focus+st+headlights&qid=1670530377&replacementKeywords=st+headlights&sprefix=2013+focus+st+head%2C... Packaging was good
Everybody here here is confusing the headlights OP is asking about with these. Completely different and are trash. Every pair I've seen in the wild has had horrendous light output and almost nothing in front of them.
I bought these right after they became available and returned them after a test drive. The driver's side sequential signal didn't fully work, and had shit-tier projectors. I had hardly any improvements in light output with my SL1s installed over the halogens they came with.
I have those headlights OP shared in my Amazon wishlist too. The reviews seem to be decent and I'd hope the integrated LEDs mean better light output. But I'm not hopeful they'll be halfway decent and will open the stock headlights and black out the chrome one day.
This isnt an issue with the rears, only the fronts. I was able to do longer wheels studs on the rear without much fuss. It's only the fronts that are the problem. Best option for the fronts is pulling the knuckle/hub or you can grind an access hole/notch but thats not ideal.
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This makes installing the new studs a breeze: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRWOT6F
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174345100989
There's a bunch of other sellers selling basically the same item too, so pick whatever is cheapest.
there's a picture of a dude doing a pullup by holding onto the cover, i don't recommend that but i've done that myself and it actually held up, lol.
previous owners and their mechanics forgot to put the fasteners on the stock splash guard back on, so I had to buy new ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1NWDZ1?psc=1
recommend buying since the red plastic thing wears out from repeated removal and insertion
It's always a good idea to have a car looked over like that, so certainly no fault there. My ST was the first car I really decided to do all of my own maintenance on, and I learned on it as well. There's pretty much a YouTube video for everything you could want to see done on the car, if that's a method that helps you learn / gain confidence in how to do something.
With the ST in particular oil changes are a pretty simple process. Honestly the only annoying part is having to remove the splash guard to do the job, though using a "creeper" to slide around on to get to the rear-most bolts holding it on is nice.
Beyond that it's one bolt to remove (the oil drain plug) and the oil filter remove (which *should* be hand-tight, but shops love to put them on way too tight). That and of course having something to catch the oil coming out of those places; I highly recommend something like this. Catch the oil in it, clean the outside of it up with paper towels and seal it up, and then go to a place like Advance Auto or O'Reilly's and ask them to empty it out into their waste container.
Obviously I'm glossing over some parts; you'll need some basic hand tools, replacement oil / oil filter, etc. However, given what a lot of oil change places charge the tools / creeper etc. pay for themselves and are useful for doing other work on the car. That and you know the job is done right, and some moron isn't using an impact gun at maximum strength to put your oil drain plug back on.
I've been replacing mine with the Bosch 28AEO+28BOE combo for a few years now with no issues. They seem to work just fine at high speeds, at least I've never noticed an issue.
Lots of great mods on this one too like intake, exhaust, short-throw shifter ect..
All said the dealer said they would do 17.5K tax in. Thoughts?A guy said he would sell this one to me for 16K
THIS is what I got this year and they are VERY bright. If you like the deep amber look, try these. I was very impressed...they honestly look and feel almost as bright as the headlamps themselves. Couldn't have been more pleased. You can see how they look in the daytime in a recent post of mine.
Also, side note, I do not recommend putting LED bulbs in the fog light housings. All LEDs I have tried have mismatched brightness and are very dim in general. A housing designed for a halogen bulb should really only have a halogen.
Personally, I'm torn between these two. I think I'll end up going with the second link
https://www.amazon.com/AnzoUSA-121490-Black-Projector-Headlight/dp/B00LWANV30
Just ordered them. I live in mexico but my ST is the European Version so I was having a hard time finding for these mirrors, these are the only ones I found on Amazon Mexico. Would you mind checking them out and see if they look like yours please ?https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B08TBVJH19?psc=1&smid=A1Y4XDIUIWK2FI&ref\_=chk\_typ\_imgToDp
I used this nut to widen the gap. (This one acutally was too small. I Had to clamp something between to make the gap smaller. The are various sizes.)
It's not much money and will save a lot of stress.
Black Turn signals can be found here! You’ll want to get some 3M double sided tape as well as they will not snap in. Have put these on my ST and now RS and love the look
I've seen people replace their resonator with a high flow muffler and they sound great. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Flowmaster-71415-Muffler-Stainless-Natural/dp/B07J31C1GD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=High+Flow+Muffler&qid=1661206737&sr=8-3
I like it because it feels much sturdier with the way it mounts. Suction cup on base, and a sticker on the neck closer to where most of the weight of the phone will be. Plus, the wireless charging is useful in that you don't have to be plugging in the charge cord and can hide it when you first install it and not worry about it. I don't use it in my Focus, but I have it in my work truck and my wife's car.
ALLA Lighting H8 H11 Switchback... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W41B34G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got these fogs lights for my RS. They switch between a regular white led and yellow led by turning the fogs on and off.
https://www.amazon.com/Focus-Carbon-Fiber-Steering-Wheels/dp/B08MKTZ7NV?adlt=strict
I just bought one of these. It's actually very good quality, feels great compared to stock.
Was super easy to swap in.
I highly recommend these for the Focus ST, I have these in a 2016 and it's best to replace in pairs since the other one will go out at any moment.
Keep in mind it works a lot better with LED than incandescent. So if you do it make sure you buy LEDs for your car. The fiesta 3rd brake light is one entirely sealed unit, but thankfully Ron at Whoosh Motorsports sells a clear LED OEM replacement!
Sorry I am very new to this modding/mechanics stuff Im still learning. Do you think this is a good option ? (Im from Mexico that's why the amazon.mx lol) https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B001PPFR4I/?coliid=I3OJLGEVG9791S&colid=L436WYX74W9Y&psc=1&ref\_=lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it
I have a two dogs, Shepherd/Lab mix about 75lbs and a Mix breed about 55lbs, and they both fit in the back when the seats are still up. I purchased a seat bridge to help give them more space in the back as I usually have the trunk filled with items so don't lay the seats down for them. They have plenty of room and the S/L mix loves to ride with his head out the window all the time.
Just recently upgraded to the RS and can confirm that the space is about the same.
I also hated the prospect of maintains the Sync 1 screen.
The FOC1 kit will contain the harness. Other than that, all I ordered was the ADS-MRR, head unit, and antenna adapter just in case I wanted to ever use the radio.
Okay, thanks for all of this information. I think I want to stick with a compact box either under the seat or behind the 2nd row seat like the other comment said he did. I was looking at this MB Quart under seat sub considering both you and another comment said mb quart subs were good https://www.amazon.com/MB-Quart-Reference-Under-Seat-Subwoofer/dp/B08S96Z5CW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3SUUK77HSER3U&keywords=mb+quart+underseat+subwoofer&qid=1656029367&sprefix=mb+quart+inders%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3. Also would this Boss 8” gauge amp kit work for either this box or the alpine compact sub box? https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=boss+amp+kit&qid=1656029028&sr=8-3. And would any 12v fuse tap work or is there a different fuse tap needed? I saw a couple like 5 and 10 packs on there pretty cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/MB-Quart-Reference-Under-Seat-Subwoofer/dp/B08S96Z5CW/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?crid=1AMQTSBD4YAI8&keywords=mb+quart+sub&qid=1656028832&sprefix=mb+quart+sub%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-17. Would this work? it’s a little different than the one you listed, yours isn’t available to me in the US on Amazon. Also would any 8” gauge amp kit work? I saw this one was best selling under amp kit on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=boss+amp+kit&qid=1656029028&sr=8-3. And finally, would any 12v fuse tap work or is there a different fuse tap that is required?
I had an MB Quart QB251A mounted to the back of the second row seats and it was awsome. Chose it on recommendation from a co-worker who did car audio competitions in the 90's, he swore on mb quart subs and having had this I see why. The audio quality is excellent, crisp, clear, flexible and it punches like a bigger sub than what it is. It's enough to make your rear view and side mirrors appear to shake because the glass is vibrating.
It's the same set up your suggesting as the amp is part of the enclosure. Just run power, ground, left and right channels and a key on signal wire (there's a fuse panel in the hatch which you can probably use a fuse tap from). I chose to set the gain then just kept the remote in my glovebox disconnected. https://www.amazon.de/QB251A-Active-Underseat-Subwoofer-MBQuart/dp/B07NQ3BNST/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1IC8AMEI319GA&keywords=mb+quart&qid=1656023737&sprefix=mb+q%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3
Not sure how well it'll work. I swapped my head unit for a pretty bad ass Chinese one and haven't had any trouble outside of trying to figure out the steering wheel controls (they ain't working and I don't feel like guessing why yet).
I went this route because it seems like going from Sync to aftermarket is an expensive venture. A lot of folks get the iDatalink Maetro kit to maintain everything and to do so without triggering a freak out by Sync.
CURT 114313 Class 1 Trailer Hitch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G42RNYS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have this one. It was designed for the 2015+ ST, but can work with the 2013 and 2014. The included insert rubs the bumper of the pre-facelift FoSTs.
Bosch Bosch front wiper blades. they actually come with the correct mounting clips unlike many others. I ran Michelin before but I had to modify them to work and they flew off a couple times.
Just fixed the same problem on my car yesterday. I got it looking pretty good. I'm at about 90k miles.
Sand, spray this, sand, paint, clearcoat.
No actually! There are tools designed for that! They work, I had to remove 4/8 plugs from my 04 F150 with this tool: Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SQ4FSN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3KGHXC27ZHKQS776RCS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
However I can’t confirm if this would work for our focus’s but just to give you some peace of mind it’s doable!
Speedmotor Replacement for Ford Focus ST Style 2015 2016 2017 2018 Replacement Front Bumper Conversion Kit Assembled Primer Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY7XS2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F7CBWGFDJWV1VGDTR4H5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I copped
Yeah. I did actually. I sold the car about a year after. But I used this product from Amazon. Similar are available, but this one worked well. Smelt like a swimming pool for about a week after. After that was fine. Just make sure you follow the instruction. And before you do it, change the cabin air filter
Car Odour Remover | Airvidox | -... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076HBYDSD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You'll need to use FORscan for that.
MK3 is model years 2013-2014; MK3.5 is 2015-2018.
You'll also need this cable to properly access the various computers.
It's fun to play with but unless you're looking for something specific (like shutting off that stupid double honk when you get out with the car running), the fun goes away pretty quick. Cool to turn off some annoyances though.
I replaced the factory clamps. Unfortunately, the ones I bought are unavailable right now, but any decent t-bolt clamp should do just fine.t-bolt clamps
These are on sale (I only knew bc I just ordered some) They will be here tomorrow but figured for 10 bucks for a set of 4 why not.. St Centers
I ordered the vanva [ Military-Grade Protection ] Universal Air Vent Car Mount from Amazon, and it works! It has this little tightening clip that really clamps on the vent. It doesn't wiggle back and forth. It doesn't wiggle up and down. It doesn't vibrate or bounce around while driving. It holds the phone stable. The only downside is that it is close to the windshield wiper control arm, but no so close that it makes the wiper arm difficult to use. If you live in sunny climates, you'll be totally fine. If you live in a part of town with a lot of rain, well, you may find it a little in the way. I was just driving in the rain with it and it wasn't a deal breaker for me. If you put it at the bottom of the driver side vent, it actually makes contact with the windshield wiper arm and it will actually cover the rear-wiper switch. It doesn't work well down in that position. Up high is better. You can put it on the passenger side too. The only downside for this is that it doesn't point the phone fully in your direction, so if you wish to "unlock" your phone via face ID, you'll have to move your head a little. But it does work.
Lastly, it does take a moment to ensure that the clip is fully seated against the vents. You have to have it pressed firmly against the vents to make it hold and prevent the vents from wiggling. If you do it right, the vents should NOT move left or right, and the phone mount shouldn't move left, right, up, or down. Once you learn how to seat the phone mount properly, it's really quick to get it seated again if you take it off or move it.