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Most of what he sheds is the fluffy undercoat which is a light greyish white and that matches the couch, so it never looks bad. But the best way to deal is brush often with a good brush so the excess fluffs are removed from the source, and when it’s bath time either get the dog groomed or go to a self-serve dog wash with a professional dryer (the dryer is key, so many poofs blow off whenever we use it!), and vacuum often! This brush was recommended to me by a malamute Facebook group and it makes a huge difference!
Gah, your puppy is cute!! She could be my boy's daughter from her looks. She's got such a sweet face. ❤
As for food, I currently use Blue Buffalo Life Protection Lamb and Rice and mix it with Raw toppers or cook my own stews for him. However, the one thing that really helped my dog more than anything was Bernie's Perfect Poop. Instead of trying different brands, you could try the poop supplement and see if it fixes her issue.
It might take a couple of weeks before you see results but my dog's poop issues and gas are gone.
If that doesn't help, it's possible she has an allergy to chicken or beef, so maybe trying the lamb and rice or salmon versions of dog food for sensitive stomachs. At that point, you probably want to talk to a vet if nothing seems to help.
Here's the link to Bernie's:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6QC3TW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WrYoFb55B126W
I'm not sure if you'll find a mushing harness with a front clip - that sort of defeats the point, you WANT them to pull- but you can definitely find heavy duty walking harnesses with that have both a front and back clip on them. This is what I use
Depending on budgets/time, I recommend self-grooming. Just because Malamutes are difficult for most.
You need: a hose; shampoo; a backyard/street/alley/sidewalk; a lot of patience.
I also use a high power, low noise, dog drier. And while it's very expensive, unless you live in the non-raining section of the world, your dog will get wet. And infinite towels can't get them dry.
We've used these Cool Beds for several years and our mals love them. They're water-cooled and surprisingly tough enough to handle the nails and scratching from a heavy dog.
They're not terribly expensive: https://www.chewy.com/frisco-tri-fold-travel-dog-car-ramp/dp/263223?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12613349483&utm_content=Frisco&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAiAl-6PBhBCEiwAc2GOVKl0vhgnhAmBDAbkVWy32gO905_MB7LKo9...
That's just one, Chewy looks like it has a few different types. :)
If you’re looking for a crate to stay in your house and not take anywhere then I’d suggest the MidWest “Ginormous” Crate. It’s seriously ginormous like the title says. It’s a little pricey, but it’s been worth it. We have one for our Mal, and he can stretch out, turn in circles, tilt his head up and he still has about a foot of space above him. He’s very comfortable in it.
We have been using Nordic Naturals - Pet-Omega-3, Amazon Canada Link .. The bottle does get a little oily after daily use but, one of the pet nutritionists I trust & our trainer (30+ years experience), both personally recommended this brand over others (their current personal dogs are Golden Retriever, German Shephard & Border Collie)...we feed 1 tablespoon daily. The dosage will obviously vary as per the dog's weight..
My husky had something similar around the back of his head, it wasn't as severe but it was scabby like that and would leak fluid and have a very distinct odor to it, after trying something my vet prescribed with no success I purchased antinfungal/bacterial spray from Amazon and had it clear up in about a week https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z6VLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6RFT850PDJPNMPEKDQCF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Again my huskys was nowhere near that severe but it looked similar in smaller clusters.
I would also look at baby gates for areas you don’t want your little lady to enter. Read up on training from malamute specific trainers. Start training consistently ASAP when your pup comes home . Never ever use a crate for disabling. It’s her safe Haven. I feed my boy in his “house” I call it. I purchased 3 crates before he came home. Small , medium & exlarge. He is 4 months old & is in the Ex-large one already.
The one below was the medium one I purchased.
The wire ones could not hold my last malamute.
( he passed in 2019 & was 11 yrs old)
My new pup Jake is 50 lbs at 4 months old.
He goes in by himself & lays down & the only time I close the door is meal time & bedtime.
I will post the other crate ( his current crate) below . Congratulations on your new little fur baby❤️
I may recommend something like Fromm diet formula or potentially Merrick diet formula they both have good grains, are high quality brands and food (not that there is anything wrong with the brand you’re using just that these brands I know for a fact are good and come in diet formulas).
Good luck! I’m glad this doggo found a good home of someone who wants to properly care for him.
Hey! The sidebar of the sub you linked has an article posted from 2007 and (since there was no date on the second sidebar link) links to a book that was published in 2001; that is, they haven't been updated in a long time.
I've been doing a lot of reading on the raw food subject since I am getting a puppy soon and it is my understanding that a lot of dietary research - specifically for nutritional issues in dogs - has come up in the last ten years or so, more recently than any of the information that is quick-linked in that sub.
Do you know if there is more up-to-date info besides the links they have? It's a little scary to think that I might be feeding my doggo something that could hurt him, but so much of the information out there is inconclusive or contradictory! Obviously diets are different for puppies and dogs but in both cases the information seems unreliable. Thanks!
In my experience loose dirt and hair drifts along the growth direction of the coat. This should mean that the general loose fluff (not blowing their coat) ends up near the backside of the legs and around the butt just under the tail.
I just go through with a coat rake (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Buster-Kruuse-Unterwollharke-f%C3%BCr-Hunde/dp/B005BOHC9W - not a product endorsement, just the first I found) starting on the sides of the legs and ending up near the butthole, then a second sweep downwards from tail to back of knees.
Once the loose underfur collection and random debris (you know, sticks, moss, whoknowswhat) is out, the remaining long hair is dirt repellent enough that we never had any poop stuck to hair situation. No need to go to extreme efforts - and definitely no need to shave.
I've had this for 4 years and it's worked great picking up all the fur that my 135 pound Mal leaves behind.
https://www.amazon.com/Shark-Navigator-Lift-Away-Professional-NV356E/dp/B005KMDV9A/
But I also bought a Roborock S4 in January and it was well worth the $300 to be run daily (must be emptied daily too). I actually don't really ever use the Shark now. It does sometimes leave little tuffs of fluff that the spinning part made on carpet but not that many and those get picked up the next day.
Here is a good one at Amazon. You can get them anywhere but make sure the pins are rounded on the end, otherwise it could scratch the skin.
Also, no matter how tempting, never, ever shave the dog. Unless it’s for a medical procedure, shaving will really mess up the coat and it will take forever for it to grow back.
Be ready for daily brushing sessions. Also, take the fur and stick it in bushes around your property. Birds love it for nesting.
Evolution Double Row Undercoat Rake with Rotating Pins
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pnUmFb3FMXCKK
Malamutes can be difficult to train because they're so smart and independent. You need a lot of time and patience. There are some good videos on YouTube that you could look up and use at home.
As for the harness vs collar, I'll echo what everyone else says. The harness seems to make them want to pull. The collar is a bit better but the natural instinct is to pull. It's what they do.
If I take my boy on a small hike, i put him in a working dog harness/ vest. Sometimes I'll even attach a water bottle or two (for him) to the back. Since he feels like he's working, he doesn't pull hard at all and the vests are designed for minimal pulling anyway. It's more like I let him lead. He's much slower this way and I'm not being tugged by 150 lbs uphill.
You can find the vests on Amazon. I have this one in XXL.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N3JYW1/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_hD5EEbE3QDY61
I use a Halti collar for my mal. He loves it and it really helps with the pulling. It stopped it immediately. Best thing out there for larger dogs that pull, IMO. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XNLCKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWGPCb0BXC05C
We use several of this type: https://www.amazon.com/Petsetera-Dog-Grooming-Comb-Deshedding/dp/B07CPDJ5PL/ref=sr_1_105?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1533498840&sr=1-105&keywords=dog+brush
Explicitely not the furminator - that does get undercoat out much quicker, but our dog definitely hates the plucking.
Several - from different manufacturers - because the amount of fur seem variable for no good reason. Amount of water, moon, daily weather forecase, what food we gave her? It's one of those. One of the brushes usually gets out more than the others.
None.
Malamutes were bread to pull and do work so we try to do that with ours as much as we can. I have a mountain kick scooter with tow lines and a harness. When I put the harness on he knows that it's time to run and pull.
For walking we just hook the leash up to the collar, or will use a gentle leader.
We want our dog to know that harness = pull, no harness = walk next to me.
This is a very stubborn breed and it required a good amount of work, but properly training them to walk besides you is more important than finding a special harness or collar that is designed to prevent it.
Yeah, I use Orijen kibble as treats. I was using some very expensive treats, but I use them so much it was too much. They were orijen treats. They are very soft and moist and fresh. I am pretty certain I wouldn't have minded eating them. If you get a bag, compare it to the zukes, which I think are pretty bad (and I used them). If you feed your dog enough zukes, he'll have horrible poop. When I was training, I used zukes because I needed a lot. And there was a point my dog would stop responding because he didn't care. My trainer was like, you need some "higher value treats" as the day goes on. You CAN tear the treats in half or less. link
At 2 weeks your dog is going to piss and poop a LOT. All the time. His bladder is the size of a change purse. I don't think my dog started stabilizing until he was...I don't know, 4 or 5 months. I would expect easily 5-8 times a day at all hours. You can't just ignore him either because he simply can't hold it.
Many young dogs have some kind of separation anxiety. If you (or someone) has been there all their life and suddenly they're alone, they're justifiably scared. What I recommend is a Kong feeder.
http://www.amazon.com/KONG-Wobbler-Treat-Dispensing-Large/dp/B003ALMW0M
Fill it with crumpled paper and stuff so it doesn't come out as fast. Put in a cup or two of kibble. Your dog won't give a shit you aren't there until the food is gone. But you can use that toy to start building the association of you gone = good food. Even better if it's in the crate. You can also setup a camera to tape how long it lasts, plan accordingly.