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If you go the pigment route buy some specificly made to use with resin 3D printers. They have them on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G1ZBDBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HH72EDFRXWJK8Z68FAYS
I've heard other pigments can cause the prints not to stick to the build plate or worse. I've heard they can destroy your FEP by either dying it a color or by causing the print to stick too much to it and it rips.
People might laugh at this but it worked great for me. I used a grow tent with a 4" inline fan to vent everything outside. I basically open the front and do everything inside the tent except for cure. You can use your printer with the yellow hood inside the tent but it's kind of a tight fit to take on and off so I just don't use the yellow hood.
I've got this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JETech-Paperfeel-Protector-generation-Anti-Glare/dp/B07QQZFLWW
Seems to be okay, I ruined the first one and had this for about 2 weeks now. There isn't any damage on it yet , I noticed that the edges are not sticking very well to the edges of the LCD but that's the least of my issues😀
ALSO YOU MAY CONSIDDER REPLACING THE FAN COMPLETELLY ITS JUST A 60MM PC FAN WITH A MOLEX PLUG THIS ONE HAS DUAL BEARINGS SO A GREAT LITTLE UPGRADE
That heater only heats the enclosure. It won’t heat the resin unless you let the resin sit in there for a while, and then you have to monitor the resin temp directly to know when it’s warm enough. Some people claim if you start with warm resin you don’t even need a warm environment since the printing process generates enough heat to keep the resin warm, but I’ve never tested that.
What I do is wrap one of these around my resin bottle, controlled by a thermostat (though you can just dip a thermometer in periodically, too) to ensure the juice is hot enough before pouring it into the vat. I print in a sufficiently small space that it’s easy to heat the whole room with a small space heater, just as insurance.
I’ve had the same RERF problems you’ve had and it stems from the need for two RERFs: one for base layers and one for normal layers, but only the normal layer exposure is incremented in a RERF. The process I’ve developed for dialing in a new resin involves printing a single tile from the Thingiverse RERF you found while manually increasing the base exposure for each print until I achieve proper adhesion (exposure power is set from the front panel, btw). Then I run a RERF with that exposure for the base layers. If part of the RERF peels away, as in your example, it invalidates the rest of the test since the peel prevents the plate from achieving the proper distance from the FEP.
You can use any PTFE lubricant. Even grease! I’ll post the two I use down below. Apply this before every print. If you are doing a large print. Pause the print at half point. Drain the vat and reapply. I learned this recently when talking to a car wrap guy.
For small or short prints I reconmend using a spray lubricant like this wd40 dry lube
For long print I reconmend to use a PFTE grease and pause print half way and reapply the grease. I use this here PTFE grease
Since doing what I mentioned above I have completed multiple prints failure free with minimal sanding required other than support pimples. Which btw. Invest in a heatgun for those. It will save you so much time.
Then the only thing it could be, judging by the other responses, is your speeds or the FEP.
Set your speeds using this https://www.reddit.com/r/AnyCubicPhotonMonoX/comments/vsb9gt/this_question_keeps_getting_asked_the_dual_stage/
You can spray this on the FEP to reduce it's adhesion https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03044-Lubricating-Spray-Weight/dp/B0013J84BY/
I got VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M3G5TH3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and any 4” flexible duct you want.
A grow tent works very well and fits both my mono x 6K and the wash and cure plus. This is the one I got along with the air filter, fan and ducting. VIVOSUN 30"x18"x36" Grow Tent,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DM1WCW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I like doing an Amerilabs RERF for each new resin. The 19ml it takes is worth it in my opinion. I use a jewelers loop to inspect the prints and decide on exposure.
The stock USB stick is junk, replace it now to save future headaches.
Don't use the plastic spatula that came with it, it will wear your FEP prematurely. I like the small silicone makeup spatulas like this: 3 PCS Black Face Mask Brush set,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CX9GTN7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Agree with learning one slicer and sticking with it. I prefer Lychee.
I set my machine exposure at 80% for regular resins and 60% for translucent.
USE A SCREEN PROTECTOR
Instead of WD40, use 3 in 1 PTFE lubricant
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J25JDDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sun is free and is omnispectral. If you live in a temperate zone and need to print sooner than your next sunny day, a UV flashlight like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CB51WY8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details will do a great job. If the photoinitiator is spent, you're likely going to need to replace the affected parts, especially having hit them with Acetone, as they're ABS and very susceptible to attack from Keytones like Acetone.
This is the PTFE Lube that is most-recommended. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_6&amp&crid=1V7QQ31QMIA11&amp&sprefix=ptfe+l
This happened to me. I ended up scratching the polarizing filter trying to get it off. Ultimately I peeled the polarizing filter off, replaced it, taped it down, then put a screen protector on.
Linear Polarization A4 Sheet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWXRB75?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Linked is the one I used.
This is the one I got: Siraya Tech 2 Pcs NFEP Film - A4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MRGRF4M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
He's right tho, nfep is gona be a game changer for many, soon as they discover it or buy it on accident and just think they finally mastered 3d resin printing:-)]
I've been using this stuff and it works well. Just clean the FEP with alcohol, light spray, smooth with a rag, wait 10 seconds, refill with resin and go. It leaves a non-transparent film, which goes away while printing and does not appear to have an effect on the print.
I think you're asking for way too much here. This is technology. You opened the box, removed the plastic, and ran it. That takes a significant amount from the price. I can get a new one on Amazon, next day, for just 4.99 more than you're asking, and donate to charity at the same time. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08R8SLSV7
The wash and cure station deal is significantly better than the printer deal here. You're actually reducing the cost of the wash and cure, then throwing in 4 bottles of resin free.
After curing, I wet sanded with 80 grit sand paper in my sink to remove the bed marks (this was printed on the bed and the Mono X6K leaves a distinct pattern) then all over with 300->800. After that, I sprayed with a clear coat from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWOS5I/
Better results could be had by following the 800 grit sand paper with 2000 grit to make it even more clear.
For the dark colored one, I just used 200 grit real quick and painted.
That's exactly why di-electric grease is used on electric machines. Lithium Grease, Bearing Grease, etc, can all conduct electricity. Granted, there isn't much chance that your machine will turn into a large conductor of electricity. Better safe than sorry I guess.
There isn't much difference between the brands.
Thats the one I bought before. 1 tube will usually last a very long time.
My experience taking my printer apart multiple times definitely had its frustrating points, but the worst was dealing with the front touch lcd screen cable. Getting a longer cable made it easier to just lay flat without detaching and damaging it. Here's the one I used. uxcell a Type AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1 40pin FFC Flexible Flat Cables 200mmx0.5mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N426KK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DZ1D0Y67XFY3QMJ3TQF8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You still need a thermometer so you’re not guessing, at least for the wall but, ideally, to stick into the resin bottle. They’re cheap. When did you last level the plate?
No trouble at all! Happy to share my fledgling knowledge haha.
ELEGOO 2 PCS Metal Resin Tank for ELEGOO Mars 3D Printer with FEP Pre-Installed and 2 Lids and 2 Allen Wrench, Resin Vat for ELEGOO Mars, Mars pro, Mars 2, Mars 2 pro, Photon and Epax X1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGFF4K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0Q1R3ZVGH4HZDFP8GX61?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thats what i wouldve done. Dont forget some screen protectors to put on top soon as you install it.
(3 Pack) Supershieldz Designed for Fire HDX 8.9 and Kindle Fire HDX 8.9 inch Screen Protector, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFS95VW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_277GKS0D6N31XYBZXRM7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I was told to use a matte finish and have had good luck with these
I had some wierd screen situations, took reseating the cable probably a dozen times before i got it to work. Next time i had to take it apart, i just replaced the cable with a new one a nd it just worked.
uxcell a Type AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1 40pin FFC Flexible Flat Cables 200mmx0.5mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N426KK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XKDBV9TQWHKNKFC72K3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also, its a bit longer and easier to work with when opening it up
I've had this when I disassembled to replace fans. The pins on this cable are very delicate. I would get a garbled display like this, reseat it, then it was blank, reseat again and again. After like 10 tries I got it working. Next time I took it apart I simply replaced the cable and it worked immediately, so much easier. You might have a nick in your wire or something. Anyway if you don't figure it out, if you're in the states, here's a replacement u can get in a couple days (what I did) and now I have no problems. Also it's a bit longer so when you take that front bezel off. You have the option of laying it down easier without unhooking it.
uxcell a Type AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1 40pin FFC Flexible Flat Cables 200mmx0.5mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N426KK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V58RTKA2M602S549615N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This exact same thing happened to me on my replacement. It's a cheap cable to replace fortunately and you don't have to wait for anycubic to ship it from china. 6.50 if you're in the states
uxcell a Type AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1 40pin FFC Flexible Flat Cables 200mmx0.5mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N426KK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QTTVG0STZFFN9BQTJJEN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I second the PTFE lubricant to try. Else, it seems like the fep that ships with these printers recently has been quite lacking. I know of at least 3 people including myself that had issues, change the fep and suddenly no more. I typically do initial layers from 14-18 seconds and 1.4 to 1.6 for regular layers depending on the resin brand and color/type.
Fep I use: ELEGOO 5PCS FEP Release Film Saturn MSLA Mono 3D Printer 185 x 260 MM 0.15mm Thickness with 95 Percentage Light Transmittance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NSGRHYC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EV8SHH9X4NW9EWPGF3FF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
An example of similar situation:
I just got a new (second) mono x, the fep that came with it blows on mine. If I had a print speed above 1.5/sec I'd lose it. Use my other vat and it's just fine. Could totally hear the print peeling off from this factory fep. I use these ones and they're amazing: ELEGOO 5PCS FEP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NSGRHYC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4FFRRZGETA4GTYB8FV7W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd say tey that before giving up because this really is an amazing printer
I just bought this mag plate and am having the same issue. Prints seem to be starting well but about 1 mm in the prints falls off the plate and gets stuck to the film. Does Sanding solve this issue.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B096ZMB91H/ref=ask\_ql\_qh\_dp\_hza
I actually heat my alcohol with a sous vide heater in the wash and cure. Saves a step. I’d also like to think it cleans better, but I’m not sure.
strange that you didn't seem to do anything that would damage that top polarizing film. regardless, here is a link to what I bought and it worked great for me. Guess its worth a try. Just lay it on top of your screen and do those tests again. you may have to rotate the film to a strange angle for it to be most effective.
Thanks for the answers. So far I'm sure we got the nitril gloves that work with resin, I'm just missing the 3M mask, the ventilation duct and the active carbon filter.
We did a couple of tests and both failed, the printer worked but no model was produced out of it. Maybe it is the printer's setting for the resin, we are using Anycubic Craftsman resin with 355-410nm. I haven't found the proper settings from google or forums (my bad).
Does anyone know what are the properties or settings for the printer in order to work with this resin?
I also understand that it "is ok" to let the printer do all the job and open the windows as soon we open the protector, is that true?
Thanks for all the advice, I'll you informed
Link for shit stepper example^
https://www.amazon.com/Redrex-Integrated-Stepper-Upgrading-Printers/dp/B01DVD87Q6
Amazon link for new stepper^
ACTUAL GOOD PRINTING MACHINES
FORMLABS ANYTHING PRUSA ANYTHING Elgoo Mars 2, or any good review of a new rendition of an Elgoo model.
There are a number of solutions out there (commercial and DIY) for enclosing the printer in a box which you then vent outside. I don't think they're really a solution because when you remove the part from the printer, when you remove it from the plate, when you pour the resin back into the bottle, fumes will escape into the room. You can wear a respirator while you do these things, but if you watch TV in that room an hour later, will you still be wearing it? Probably not.
Now, maybe I (and others) are being too cautious. Maybe these fumes won't do anything to you. I don't want to take the risk, however, of waking up 10 years from now and discovering I have lung problems from this. It's just not remotely worth it.
I'm fortunate enough to live in a house, with a garage, with a small (4' x 8') utility room off the garage, with a door and vent on an outside wall. I think this is a perfect resin printing "facility." I put a bathroom exhaust fan on the ceiling and feed it via a hose to the vent. I still wear a respirator whenever I'm in there. And, yet, there are people on here that consider even this setup reckless.
Yea absolutely Linear Polarization A4 Sheet... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XWXRB75?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This one works for me. It’s not self adhesive so you’ll have to stick down the edges but it’s working just as well as before it was replaced.
Siraya Tech 2 Pcs NFEP Film - A4 Size (210 X 297mm) Better Durability Fewer Layer Lines Accurate Print Results Great for Resin Printing Better Performance Over FEP for LCD DLP 3D Printers
Amazon, price has just dropped, $20 for 2. It was $25 for 2 when I bought it…
I should have said I'm a newb and haven't had to change my own FEP yet, so all I know is what I've read/watched. Of course, all the cool kids are switching to nFEPs now, so that's something to consider, but you should be able to get things working with ordinary FEP.
I heat some water in a bucket using one of these:
Dip in the bottle up to its neck and leave it there until it reaches the ideal temp.
Ah, used. That’ll explain the state of the screen. Try the alcohol first to clean. Get one of these screen protectors:
KOYOFEI 3PCS Mono LCD Screen Tempered Glass Protective Film for 8.9'' Resin 3D Printer, High Light Transmittance Protective Film for Elegoo Saturn/Mon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NQZWLHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Js1P3bWSp87lK
They’ll help preserve it in the future. You’ll need to relevel the build plate after fitting.
As for the screws. They are standard metric threads. You should be able to find new screws at the hardware store. Failing that you can probably find them on McMaster.com
Sorry...I didn't know you needed all that.
Resin:
I am not sure what you are asking in terms of resin. Here is the resin that I bought and is in the VAT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3663HD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Settings:
I didn't change any settings in the slicer (Lychee) and took the default. I believe I have the exposure on the machine set to 10s.
​
Machine Power:
I have no idea what you mean here. I'm in the US so it's plugged into a standard 15a outlet. Could you clarify what you mean by machine power?
​
Temp:
It's in a basement and it's cold (58F). I have a secondary nest thermostat that is under the hood next to the VAT and a space heater blowing on the outside of the hood. The thermostat was reading 75 next to the vat but I did shut it off mid-build as I didn't want to leave it running overnight. There were prob 3 hours (out of 8) left when I turned it off.
Also, if it's not too late for your lcd, throw on a matte screen protector on that lcd. I had the same thing and it saved me.
For 10$ it's a nice security blanket.
(3 Pack) Supershieldz Designed for Fire HDX 8.9 and Kindle Fire HDX 8.9 inch Screen Protector, Anti Glare and Anti Fingerprint (Matte) Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFS95VW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XYAN52337F92G1E4ZF86?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I suppose you could spring for one of these to confirm whether the voltage on the port is good. Either way, you probably need to talk to Anycubic, unfortunately. How old is your machine?
I use these, cut into quarters and then each quarter folded into quarters. No scratches I can see (though my eyes aren't great ;-) ).
Double Edged Plastic Razor Blade Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip for Scraping Labels and Decals Sticker From Glass, Windshields and Auto Window Tint Vinyl Tool Application(Scraper with 10 Blades) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5Z2CBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H8ZCRR54XX2VVHB2VJJ8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That is essentially the same setup I landed on except in place of the cardboard boxes I'm using the ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Enclosure. The only (possible) downside is it's size: 21.65'' (L) x 21.65''(W) x21.65'' (D) compared to my working area. I put my heater inside the enclosure and run the thermostat's probe under the printer's lid. My garage has been as low as 6°C and the setup has kept the temp at the vat at 30°C+. I'm just working on dialing in the thermostat to keep the vat temp at no more than, say, 28°C.
Just my personal opinion, but I think the only solution (short of forgetting about printing in this situation) is to wear a respirator as long as you’re in that room. A lot of people exhaust or filter the air inside the printer, but, of course, as soon as you take the cover off you’re exposing the vat to the wider environment. Plus you have to pour resin into and out of the vat, remove parts from the plate, clean them etc. There’s no way to keep gaseous resin (I don’t say “resin odors” because, just because you can’t smell it doesn’t mean it’s not there) out of the environment.
Even WITH a respirator, I wouldn’t want a printer next to me for hours every day, and my lungs are fine. I want to keep them that way.
I couldn't find the one heater which you got, this is the closest to it, do you think it'll fit? https://www.amazon.de/Pro-BreezeTM-Mini-Keramik-Heizl%C3%BCfter-Arbeitsplatz-Schreibtisch/dp/B0778JZRRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=VAA76EYGL7SO&keywords=mini+heizl%C3%BCfter&qid=1640075317&sprefix=mini+heiz%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3 .
I can get 99.9% IPA for $30/gal. Not saying that’s cheap, but what do you pay for denatured, and where?
That looks like a pretty good exposure. The tackiness and shine are due to insufficient washing. Give it at least 5 minutes in the bath (I don't think it's possible to overwash); that might even improve some of the detail where uncured resin was still sticking and then you cured it in place during the cure cycle. If detail doesn't improve (particularly opening more slots above the checkerboard), you could try shortening the exposure some more, but I don't think you can go wrong with your current settings.
I'm actually experimenting with heating my IPA with a sous vide heater to reduce wash time, but you don't need another variable at this point, and I don't even know if it improves anything yet.
As a newb, I find there's still so much mystery around consistently getting successful prints that I'm grateful for any variables I can measure and control. E.g., I have a thermometer in my printing space so I always know the temperature in there (outside doesn't matter). I also have a thermostat with a temperature probe on an extension that I can use for spot readings. The probe also provides air temp when not connected to anything, and, since the device is WiFi connected, I can read the temp from anywhere in the house (my printing space is in a room off the garage).
I also have one of these for heating a bottle of resin. I stick the temp probe between the cuff and the bottle to be able to tell when it's warm enough; this eliminates guessing. I also have a mini electric space heater (also connected to the thermostat) to warm the entire space. Supposedly, the heat from the resin polymerizing is enough to keep the resin sufficiently warm once you start printing, but who really knows (the probe is too big to stick in the vat during printing)?
Link? Regardless, I’ve been using ordinary overhead transparency film with no problems. Not these exact ones, but same idea and way cheaper. I tape it down with Capton tape because it’s very thin and I already had it. Some people just use blue painter’s tape.
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B083Q977KF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_TAMDA3PF4MGRTC6B0QM0
Australia listing.
From what I read, matt surfaces are ideal over smooth surfaces for the layer in contact with the fep sheet. Main issue though is the limited plastic options available when compared to glass screen protectors.
I’m using stuff like this. Not this brand, but something like it; I just happened to have it lying around. As I said, since I have a laser cutter it’s easy to cut to size. If I didn’t have one, I’d probably buy an iPad screen protector like everyone else (though I’ve often wondered how hard they are to remove since some aren’t intended to come off). I old mine down with capton tape because it’s very thin and I had some on hand (some people use blue painter’s tape with no problems).
I used this one but the mono x screen is 9 inches so I had to cut it too size. However you want one big enough to cover the gaps on top so nothing can even get close to going in the machine.
I got the flush fit Scandisk 16gb flash drive from Amazon for $7 and they come already formatted FAT32 right out the package.
I have these in all 8 resin printers. Works perfectly for my Mono X. I put the files onto this flash drive, as soon as I removed it from the package, and it worked perfectly with my printers.
I bought some flexible magnetic plates that stick to the build head but haven't tried them out yet. That may be what you need.
yes, I built one of these. I made the version without the run meter and the magnets on the bottom.
Stuck on of those metal plates I had laying around for magnetic phone mounts in the backleft of the enclosure, and the magnets hold the heater down. The temp probe runs around the back side of the case to the front right side by the resin tank. The heater blows the hot air towards the plastic enclosure, not directly at the resin.
I have my printer in the garage and it kept the enclosure nice and warm during the winter.
Anything like this. They heat up the printer by conduction through the base of the printer which is ideal. Also the temp will never go high enough to harm a reptile/printer unless it is defective of something. Just remember that you can get a large one to store resin on as well as the printer. I have two printers sitting on a long one.
My epax came with a nfep, I don't feel it was all that and a bag of chips.
I have been using these .15 from Amazon and they are still crystal clear after 2 months of 18-20 hours a day printing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085J2W3JN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You need a screen protector, the one I got was this one. Now, even if I drip resin on it, on accident, I don't have to worry. I think it could easily take a dropped buildplate, as long as it's only from a few inches.
Sure. Here you go. It prints really fast too in the Mono X. Just be careful. The light bleed sometimes makes a weird skirt of half cured resin around your print if the UV% is too high. I recommend printing with only 75% UV.
The color is really dark black too
Further down in the comments is a full build log. I used this
Transparent Decorative Window Film Anti UV Colorful Adhesive Vinyl Heat Insulation Solar Window Tinting Sheets Glass Film for Christmas Home Decoration, 17.7Inch x 78.7Inch, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8M4B12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5JBGWRW4NEX20ZFKGS4P
I just added the settings I had to the photos link above.
30s x6 base layer and 2s normal time.
fep film is this .1mm from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRLC4H4
I feel like I have far more consistent results with that fep film.
Also running the fulament flex plate, when I put it on, I sanded the OEM build plate on a slab of granite for quite a while because it was concave more than I wanted. Then just leveled against the FEP before the first print with it.
as for the clear post processing i've seen some shots someplace on reddit of people doing just what you said, but I decided to just paint after curing caused more yellowing than I wanted. And the plan in my head right now is to color match some of the caps to the navy switches as close as I can. That and these are going to be my first attempt at a hand wire job so probably want to hide that mess
Vue Water Distiller Machine 4L 304 Stainless Steel Distillers for Home Countertop Desktop Distilled Water Machine with Glass-Lined Nozzle Water Distiller Purifier to Make Clean Water for Office（Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C2ZX524/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EKPH1403XVB79YQ81KR9
Much cheaper, works great. I cut one down to fit inside the tape and applied the second one on top. A little stressful but successful.
Hi, I had issues with prints sticking to fep and lubricant solved them very well ptfe
I now worry about other things but prints stay on the plate without any further problems.
Apart from all of the above advice, id suggest to try ( if there are problems with resin sticking to fep) a product such as this: ptfe lubricant
I had lots of issues with resin sticking to fep until this stopped all of them. Good luck
Linear Polarization A4 Sheet Polarizer Educational Physics Polarized Filter Optical https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWXRB75/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_zjKbGbE2EWM4E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It works but you’ll have to tape it down. It’s quick and dirty. Something with adhesive might be better long term but everything I found had like 1-2 month ship times
i was kinda haveing this issuses leveled the plate found out plate isn;t as flat as i tought and then i used some 260 grit sanding blocks like this https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange-Superfine-Different-Specifications-Assortment/dp/B07P782FTM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sanding+blocks&qid=1609638365&sr=8-3
on the plate and now its kinda hard to get stuff off now
Fep film 200 microns or 100 microns but ve careful with 100 https://www.amazon.com/3D-Printers-4-Sheets-Available-Thicknesses/dp/B07GRSGQN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=fep+film&qid=1609121621&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOUJGWVFXNEpZQTBYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkP...
I was thinking of getting these what does the community think?
This one is 20 x 20 inches, just to show you the type of product I mean.
Yeah about that... I saw the video from anycubic to change the fep for mono x and they put a link to an Amazon fep form them and it didn’t say any measures and I just thought it was the one for the mono x and that they were starting to sell them, but it came yesterday and it was for the photon I just bought another one https://www.amazon.com/-/es/dp/B07GRSGQN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_FBK1FbVZHN1BK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 The 100 microns one and I’m waiting now, the reviews said it works for them in their mono x, so until it arrives.. and I live in Mexico so it will be a while and also they are out of stock, I saw your comment but I forgot to reply and to do anything sorry,
I use this( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YCR43FL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_uHc0FbM0DAWKH) and cut it to size with some kapton tape around the edges to ensure it doesn't come up. I might pull up the black tape and put over the entire screen and then replace the tape but so far it's printing fine with it over the screen and part of the black tape
Here is a video of a guy double protecting his, https://youtu.be/Pw0Nbw6wz4o
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKSGS1F/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_awdb_imm_t1_cHCTFbTF5YD0V Sorry for the delay this is another option, you just need to cut to the right amount, although I haven’t received mine but it should work fine
Thanks for the tip. Any reason this wouldn't work? Cant get the same as the video in Europe and the closet seems to be the spray applicator.
Elegoo ABS-like Gray
When you see recommended settings, they usually mean 0.5mm layer height and gray resin.
Dark and trans colors need the settings to be tweaked. Black takes like double the exposure time, and trans needs to be messed with until you find settings that don't overexpose it and cause bloating.
I had a similar issue with punctured FEP film, I ordered a set of replacement sheets off Amazon (link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRMZY3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) - just make sure to test that you don't have a leak or scratch the film when replacing it
If you're patient I think Anycubic will ship you a replacement at no cost