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Okay, two ways to do this.
First is free, so let's start there. Find a 12 point socket that's just a tiny bit too big. Sounds like a 14mm or 9/16 may fit the bill. Tap it over the drain plug. Don't whack the hell out of it, but hit it hard enough so it starts going on. Hammer it on until the edge of the soxket touches the flat part of the drain plug. When you go to twist it off, have a hand on the back of the ratchet, you want to keep it at a perfect 90 degree angle. Tell him to calm down and only use 6 point sockets from now on
Other solution is to go get some of these, they'll pull it right the hell off
It’s the ambient temperature sensor. Yours seems to be intact but the white fastener clip is broken.
Should look like this
I would probably secure it with a zip tie if the fastener is too expensive.
YouTube video: https://youtu.be/WYU6Rmutpjk
I don't know how I got this far without knowing that's what my picks were called. That's super helpful, thank you, and it led me to this which is kind of specialty but it looks more like what I was thinking of
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCZFTK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_PSHbGb4E8B5EH
It should be available on the data bus, you can get a bluetooth adapter and monitor it with most smartphones/tablets with several different apps. Amazon sells the Elm adapter for $5 and free shipping. Better quality ones are also available for a bit more...
Or if you need better quality/faster go to a agricultural/construction machinery workshop.
It’s unlikely the blower manufacturer just made it for that blower. So maybe the find something in the pin with leftover parts that you can make fit.
You only need a Torx set like this
Those shields just slide over the end of the spark plug wire boot. The challenge with these plug wires is that the boot will 'stick' to the spark plug and make it a real pita to remove, it's easy to damage the boots and wires. The important part of this job is to grab the exposed end of the boot and twist until it breaks loose and spins on the head of the spark plug. Then try grabbing as low down on the boot shield to pull the wire off. Spark plug boot pliers help with this - something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014WIUQY
thanks for the info, bricke. this is the code reader I have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z3HB7DR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll look into the spark plug non-fouler method :)
2nd this comment. Ignore codes, check basics.
spark checker on any plug, have a friend crank it, if it lights move on for now.
Check fuel pressure as said above (gauge is best, but for fast and loose, the Schrader valve method works). If no fuel pressure, whack the fuel tank with a rubber mallet 2-4 times (relative hard, don’t pansy it). See if it starts after that. If so, definitely a fuel pump.
Rad hoses usually aren't expensive. In an emergency, you can use something like rescue tape:
Replace/repair soon before the overheating warps the aluminium heads.
Not a mechanic, but I use this:
"JACO ElitePro Digital Tire Pressure Gauge - Professional Accuracy - 200 PSI"
"PRO ACCURACY - mechanic recommended, performance tested, & calibrated accurate to professional ANSI 2A standards - with dual pressure sensors certified to ±0.50% FS (1 PSI), offering reliable readings up to 200 PSI w/ precise readout resolution of 0.10 PSI - so you can now maintain your tires with a shop-grade mechanic trusted tool"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JL8YB36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ooh! Researching your response led me to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00557YRP2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_GZZ1TT3SFQ7Y98G0EP38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm fairly certain that's what it is. You think? Looks like the right size and number and placement of hose attachments
DIY You could rebuild those for like $40. Pull it out, (gently) crack it open and replace the activated charcoal and filters. 5lbs of the stuff is like $22 on Amazon . Take the filters to the hardware store and buy a package of fiberglass or poly fiber matting and cut your own filters. If it too thin, use a thin sponge and cut a layer for both sides. Repack the whole thing with the new charcoal and seal it up with silicone and clamp it for a day. Spend that other $961.xx on blow and hookers ;) video guide
Revell Visible V-8 Engine 1:4 Scale Model Kit -Plastic Model Kit https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00004YUXS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5CXB2AQWGGVCTXCXV2AD
I built a model similar to this in highschool while I was going through TAFE. Build it then explains about timing. An excellent first step in motor mechanics
Schumacher BAF-B1 Battery Terminal Cleaning Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060YHP62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_07XY0NS7GPQPW3AFCXGJ
Purchase this tool clean your terminals or is just going to not start one day.
the curlprit is most likely your blend door actuator, doesn't look to be too expensive but sometimes labor can hurt your wallet more than the part with these things
Be extremely careful of knockoff stuff.
These are knockoff Cat fuel filters they are 45.75 for 5
Screw the ground into bare metal. If your screen looks jittery, ground the shield of the rca to the radio’s ground. Otherwise you may need a power filter.
Dasaita 12V DC Power Relay Capacitor Filter Rectifiers for Car Rear View Back Up Camera -Aftermarket Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P35T3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fzQdFbB9FK32K
Hey, you mean this one? Thanks for the tip! I bought a cheaper one off Slickdeals or something a few years ago, but it never pulled any ABS codes.
At Autozone, they didn't pull any ABS codes, and said they couldn't. They pulled a 0420 - Cat Converter code, totally unrelated (the check engine light just happened to come on recently, and that year or run of Rangers has some O2 sensor issues and such I'm aware of).
Anyways, thanks again!
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494293163&sr=8-2&keywords=flywheel+turner i actually made mine years ago, but they work great
I use this a lot for my vehicles and friends.
Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal Scanner Adapter Check Engine Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/
It's wifi based so connects to any cell phone and I have several apps I use on iPhone. Let's me see check engine codes and fuel usage, and other helpful information.
I can screenshot the codes and send them to friends so they can get them fixed.
Might work for what you need.
So when I (routinely) replace the clutch, what is a good kit I can get for a decent price? I would preferably take a Stage 1 or 2 kit over a stock OEM.
I found this but I'm unsure.
2000 V6 Manual Mustang if you didn't catch that
Is the check engine light on? You can go to any parts store like advance auto and they will scan for free. Write down what they tell you.
You can also buy this and use your smart phone to read codes using your smart phone. It'll also let you have a digital dashboard on your phone/tablet.
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l8bqyb6BDQ200
Lift the front end of the car, get a radiator funnel that seals (I use a Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_c899xb0SGAXG1 ) fill this funnel with a little bit of coolant, turn on the car with the heat on full blast, and let it warm up for a minute or two AT IDLE! Do not rev the car, as you could burn the shit out of yourself later. As the air is purged, the coolant in the funnel will go down, so it's important to monitor it, otherwise you'll be just sucking air up. When the coolant stops dropping and air bubbles stop coming up (~3 min or so), it should be safe to turn off the car, top of the minute air near the cap, and seal it back up.
Sounds like an adapter for wiring a 4 wire trailer plug from the cars tail light circuit.
Is there a tow hitch on the vehicle or signs that there was?
yeah factory head unit would be the radio that came with the car.
The battery cables on your car - these battery cables That's just an educated guess. GM radios and theft deterrent systems are a pain in the ass. I've had customers come in who've tried to install their own aftermarket radios and it's made anything from the onstar lady's voice loop constantly to their seat motors move without warning.
Hey, so I noticed this happened this morning. What parts would I need to fix this? Just the mirror or like the mount (not sure what the name of that part is)?
Would this get this job done? help!
Kind of late, but I would say 10 month old gas is your issue. Chances are you'll need to clean out your entire fuel system and put in some fresh gas. I learned this the hard way with one of my old tractors that sat for about a year. Now I put a fuel stabilizer in gas that's going to sit for more than a month or two.
I ended up purchasing this discharge hose, as amazon said it would fit my car. However I wanted to make sure.
According to this diagram the discharge hose should labeled as number 6. The one I recieved looks like it but has a high port on it. I'm fairly certain it's the right part but I'd rather not walk in with the wrong thing and walk out embarassed.
HIDs are still common and harnesses are all over Ebay, Amazon, and other online stores. Honda, Ford, Chevy, Mazda, Audi, are just a handful of manufactures that offer HID as standard equipment on 2015 cars. They've become more mainstream than you know. You don't need the kit if you have the bulbs. Just get the harness. You can find them on Amazon for cheap, for the 9004s.