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I got my son a little felt axe and wood splitting / campfire set. When he realized it was the same as dads he was really happy. On Amazon for those that are interested.
Fisher-Price S'More Fun Campfire, 18-Piece Pretend Play Set https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MT7K36N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g0ibGbWQN3BPR
I used a 3 inch x .5 x .5 n52 magnet from amazon. Wrapped it in ducktape. I made it to be light and need no undoing of straps. If testing goes well ill prob remake out of nylon webbing instead of ducktape wallet style. Might weigh .5 lb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UU6W3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p3p.Eb5GMYGZN
If you need an axe to carry just get a Collins 2.5 boys axe and call it a day. Is it as pretty as a GB, no. But at 20% the cost it's a hell of a lot of axe.
I’d be splitting dogwood, hickory, oak, ash and maple. I’m not thrilled taking all these trees, but it both opens up my property and provides a ring around my house that keeps my house safe from trees falling.
As for a maul. Are you referring to a triangle head vs say this link
I got it on Amazon, there are brass and aluminum ones as well for a few dollars more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A2C0ZYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7UZEAb3PD9FS6
Nice score on your first HB! Which pattern?
So when it comes to composite handles most people either recommend that or the Husqvarna A2400. I personally like a longer handle maul. At least 30 inches. Hardware stores usually carry mauls that seem fine to me. At about half your budget. They would be heavier and have longer handles.
Get a nicholson axe file along with a Lansky Puck and you'll be good to go for a long time.
Not really much at all. I prefer the standard 10” and 12” double cut files, but I’m a tool maker, and that’s what I learned with. There are a lot of different styles of file, some more aggressive than others. Axes are relatively soft metal, so single cut teeth will be fine.
Check out some online primers on metal file categories and general tool sharpening if you’re new to it and really wanna nerd out.
Nicholson didn’t export their hardening process when they exported the work, unfortunately. A new one will be fine for the axe though.
Single cut files remove material more slowly, but in a more controlled manner, which is advised if you’re just starting out using them.
I’d get a Lutz or Nicholson wooden handle and get the 10” if I were picking them.
I also recommend a good card fileto properly clear chips/swarf from your file.
Do not use oil when filing, only when using a puck to finish and hone. Oil will cause more chips to stick inside the file teeth, causing uneven material removal.
Use a light but deliberate stroke, lifting it off the axe at the end of the stroke. After a couple passes, tap the file against your bench or vise to knock loose any trapped chips from your file, and swipe the card against it every dozen passes or so.
Do not drag the file backwards on the axe; that kills the file. They only sharpen in one direction.
The hole was intended to have a set screw that holds the head to the handle. Your idea will work, I’d hit the Home Depot and see if you can find a giant headed bolt that fits the threads
Cold Steel Drop Forged Tomahawk Survival Hatchet - Great for Camping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IXDHMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pBBnFb8FCZSB0
I’m not sure it’s threaded but still doable
Stanley spoke shave works great and under $20. You've got enough meat on that handle that you can practice and get the blade right.
Stanley 12-951 SpokeShave... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X1ZG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Then use your rasp there to clean it up and get things rounded off better. Finally moving to some sandpaper.
I agree with u/Treehead1000 suggestion. I wish I would have found this much sooner.
Richard Kell 625-3000 Brass Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CER0MK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XTgOBbVHPRHCJ
EDIT: Ha. Just realized I mentioned you in the suggestion. Anyway, still stands.
I know a lot of folks are saying 5o just go out and buy whatever the hardware store has, but with files, quality does matter. Definitely go and buy whatever you can afford, but if you have an extra 5 bucks, buy Nicholson, pferd, vallorbe, and even the indian made "wood miller"
Not a complete list, but they are 10x better than the trash case hardened files you can buy at harbor freight and some other hardware stores that sell really shitty Chinese files.
Going with what other folks have said, a "bastard" pattern is a good pattern of file for axes.
If I had to recommend one file for axe work, I would recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-06601-8-Inch-Handy-File/dp/B00002N7RN
It has two 'grits' (double cut and single cut) and has a tang that you can hold and not need to put a handle on to comfortably hold.
These are the ones I like, I generally get them at Lowes or home Depot https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Leather-M-Pact-X-Large/dp/B01EOWA1AI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=1N061O2PO54TC&keywords=mechanix+impact+gloves&qid=1661535220&sprefix=mechanix+%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-6
I have this little gem and love it.
Well within your budget and made in Sweden!
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This is an awesome tool for the money, great blade retention on these Condor tools
You can shave the head of your handle down to fit that. The lugs will make it a little trickier than a single bit without lugs but it can be done.
A 4-in-hand or farriers rasp (or a Shinto-brand rasp off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0) would make short work of removing material to fit the haft to the head. Add some sandpaper, boiled linseed oil and you’re in business.
There are any number of videos available showing different techniques for fitting a haft to a head.
“An Axe To Grind” is a great one to start with. Fitting a double bit (in my opinion) is a much simpler prospect than a rockaway/Kentucky/Jersey-pattern single bit but yours can certainly be done.
Anyway, the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA
A Shinto-brand rasp from Amazon will make short work of reshaping a handle. They’re worth every penny in my opinion ($~30-$40 USD).
https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0
Saw rasp and a decent draw knife makes all the difference, imo.
I have this cheap little draw knife. Comes in handy for eye shaping if you keep sharp.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XLTXNN3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_J1R5A5HEFTKNCB871W6Q
I'd never trust that thing. Also, the price is crazy.
If you want to try something similar, gor for a Rinaldi Genova. €30 for a tool that will last you a lifetime.
I personally use light machine oil (this exact one) on my axe and it seems to work great.
Just give it a touch up before storage. Handle, I have started using paste wax on all my wooden handles. Could use it on the head too I guess.
Husqvarna 13 in. Wooden Handle Hatchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPF9SDN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XQN45Q5B8F0EB9MCQV33
Made by Hults Bruk in Sweden. You might have to get a sheath for this one so search for Almike sheaths on Etsy.
There are quite a few of these small axes out there. Here is a very expensive one: https://www.tuatahiaxes.com/product-page/tuatahi-camp-axe
Here is a very reasonably priced one: https://www.amazon.com/Council-Tool-Curved-Wooden-Utility/dp/B07ZHKMP4Y
There are also some swedish brands that are very proud of their brand name, but I would legitimately check out helko werk axes, they are underrated tools for the price. Not much better than the boys axe, but different if you enjoy a more European style.
I’d replace the handle or borrow from someone else.
But. If you need to go today. Someone mentioned wire wrap and another duct tape. You could also use a couple of screw tight hose/duct collars over the tape if you’ve a hardware store nearby. https://www.amazon.ca/Boao-Pieces-Adjustable-Stainless-Clamps/dp/B07HRSDVSD/ref=asc_df_B07HRSDVSD/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459657934071&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11219080311901783481&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hv...
Either way be very careful of the direction you swing this thing. No one in the vicinity etc. Wear protection etc.
The eye of the Plumb is a good bit larger than the standard half hatchets. I’m thinking something like this handle would work. Any suggestions?
BRUFER 203652 Genuine Hickory Wood Replacement Handle for Camp Axe - 14" Complete Set with Wooden and Steel Wedges https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B082XJ5D32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6JF6NP8YB9H8GZ5TXZTW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I prefer to stay away from sheaths but when they are absolutely necessary, I always go with leather.
I wax the leather and axe heads for rust prevention using a bar of parafin wax commonly used for canning vegatables. Snowseal on the leather inside the sheath also works well. There is an oil the old guys used (I "think" was mink oil but I am not 100% sure on that) that works but that I've never tried. Parafin, if it get on the handle accidently, makes the grip more stick for sweaty or damp bare hands (but slippery for gloves) and oil does not. I prefer to be able to hang on to my axes when using them, for safety's sake and as such haven't tried oil.
Wax on an axe head also prevents it from getting bound in a cut during felling and can allow it to split wood easier when splitting. Also makes a good firestarter in a pinch.
https://www.amazon.com/Paraffin-Household-Gulf-Wax-Pack/dp/B07MTQVYWM/
That looks like a great old version of this shape:
Bahco Hatchet Fibreglass Handle Hfgps 1000G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y8QXLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N80JPZ0NJ6VTT579DF4X
I bet, if the head wiggles and is wedged on, you can pull/prynout the wedge(s) or whatever other junk might be stuffed in there, bump the head off (into the grass, could be brittle dont wanna break it), sand/carve the shoulder down a little, reseat the head a little deeper, re-wedge with a newer maybe wider wedge.
If its friction fit, bump it down off the handle and find/craft a new one
Boiled linseed oil contains chemicals to dry/cure faster. Raw linseed oil is non toxic/food safe, but takes longer to dry.
Amazon is a sure bet for decent prices.
Coldsteel make some quite decent axes that won't empty your wallet. They are definitely a good place to look for a decent all-purpose axe, the trail boss pretty much fits the bill if you ask me. Generally I'd stay clear of any plastic/fiberglass handles, except for the tried and tested fiakars.
The rasps I have are all very old. I definitely wouldn't describe them as "sharp," lol. Would something like this set work you think?
If you're working in a tight spot like that I recommend taking a look at a Japanese saw rasp for mid to final shaping. You will be able to work the wood without clamping for the most part.
This one is a favorite of mine: https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0
This almost sounds like a troll. You’re wanting someone to forge a custom axe for you for under $60? Is that including a handle? You’ll be hard pressed to find that. Your best bet is to find something off amazon or Groupon. Something like this: CRKT Freyr Tactical Axe: Outdoor Axe with Deep Beard Design, Forged Carbon Steel Blade, and Hickory Wooden Handle 2746 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768WT52V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q.YYBb73QER3D or this Cold Steel Axe Gang Hatchet 90axg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJOM3LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZcZYBbEXMAH6A . Search Cold Steel hatchet. They have a few options around $60. Some with a hammer poll, some straight bits, some variety. As for quality of these, I have no idea. I’ve never owned one or even held one.
I also vote for the Husqvarna ‘multi purpose axe’. Shaped like the other swede forest axes, in a ‘boy’s axe’ size which I prefer over the larger axes for most work.
Haha you dickhead. You called me butt hurt, triggered and a nobody. That is not resorting to insults?
Pot meet kettle.
Also the GB SFA has 4.6 star average out of 342 reviews on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Gransfors-Bruks-Forest-Sweden-420/dp/B000WIROX6
Clearly your opinion is in the minority and most buyers disagree with your assessment.
Please view this ad:
Axe of Swedish origin, https://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/axe-of-swedish-origin/1372950572?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android
Price: £ 100
Download the application from the Google Play Store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gumtree.android
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPK4RTT/ref=emc_b_5_t
This is the best axe I know of that isn't a wooden handle. Haven't used it but some users here have given it very positive reviews. There are cheaper Fiskar models but I wouldn't get that if I had the money for the Husqvarna.
I like Breakfree CLP. But I haven't really done a scientific comparison. I read about Breakfree on some internet forum a couple of decades ago for cleaning guns and I've been using it on all of my metal tools ever since. Before that I used Hoppes #9, which I still use occasionally because the smell reminds me of my grandpa's workshop. He was a competitive skeet shooter, the best in the county. I use it to clean my shotguns because of the memories it brings back.
Edit: LOL @ this: https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Air-Freshener-Pack/dp/B01AYEJK1Q
I think the 8” would be better suited to smaller work to be honest, because when you are inexperienced the longer file gives you a little more room for error. The shorter the file, the more prone any user is to push harder than is needed.
That being said, if you are patient and take your time, the 8” will serve you well. Not rushing, smooth and deliberate strokes only from front to back are critical. Canting the file at an angle across the length of the edge is fine. Check out some YouTube videos or Bruk’s homepage for some good tutorials.
Do not try to push down too hard to remove a lot of metal faster. This will cause uneven material removal and make your stone finishing take twice as long. Let the file do the work. Small chips are preferred and will not clog the file teeth as fast.
Edit
This $6 rasp claims to work for metal, we shall see! If not there are some inexpensive nicholson files readily available in my area (I don't see as many of the Bahco's)
As for the flex, that makes sense! Kind of like a hockey stick! Or not really, just figured as a Canadian and a Swede talking on the internet...
Thank you, that is very useful information, I was not aware of the specific divisions so now I can look up more specific reviews. In your opinion would this Husqvarna be of a similar quality tier? It appears to be a little more premium to me, but I can't find any direct comparisons.
Purchased from Review Outdoor Gear and swapped the lace for a stronger red one.
Still available for most Gransfors axes... highly recommended!
Believe Cold Steel makes their ‘hawks with 22” handles. I just did a search for “22” tomahawk handle” and found it on amazon. It looks like the correct profile too. https://www.amazon.com/Throwing-Tomahawk-Handle-Replacement-American/dp/B01GSQUOBO
I've been looking at Husqvarna and Estwing per suggestions. I think about a 26" axe would be a good fit for my needs. Husqvarna has one on amazon however its $90, a bit pricey for just some occasional light tasks..
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I was thinking about this estwing which is only $60, which isn't too bad: https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Special-Campers-Axe-Construction/dp/B00D32ALW4/
I like the idea of the all steel construction because I have been hard on my handles in the past, however I'm not sure how bad the shock is with an all steel axe.
Would this be a good choice for a beginners general purpose axe? Mainly for small tasks like breaking down fallen limbs and the occasional felling of small trees?
and
Stones are nice for knives and people that care about cosmetics but a file and a clamp are super cheap and go a long way. You can also file sharpen free hand but it's harder to change a primary bevel that way. I make strops myself to finish off the edge or help get rid of the burr sometimes. Also makes it look a little prettier. But it's fun to do it with the file and really try to hone the edge gently with only one tool.
I think a 6 inch file is sometimes used in the field but I can easily use an 8 inch. At home you might even consider getting a 10-14 inch file to remove a lot of material for when you have to do a lot to an axe. I like the bahco farmers file because I never have to worry about a handle and they are good quality. You will want a file card to clean your file so debris stuck in it doesn't make uneven scratch patterns.
You can get all 3 of these things (without a strop) for less than 40 dollars on amazon all together.
I recently bought a corona bastard file on Amazon, and it cuts considerably better than my nicholson. The best file I have used for removing a lot of metal. I wish I had gotten it sooner because it would have saved me a ton of time.
Corona FE405506BC1CD Mill Bastard Cut File with Handle Carded, 6-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IO86MSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5OriEbDREMEZ8
I like to sharpen my axes with a file this one works well. I have different axes for felling and splitting yours looks like it has a hollow or concave grind in my experience these don't make good splitting axes (sorry) but where you are just using it for kindling it should be fine. I like to sharpen my splitting axes with a more robust edge think cleaver vs fillet knife. And just sharp enough that if you push on it and slide your hand down it will cut you so pressure won't break the skin and sliding your thumb along the edge won't cut you but both will. Good luck
Edit: watch this at 17:15 he is done hanging the head and begins in on sharpening
Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.
For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.
Prandi are relatively inexpensive and I enjoy the one I got.
Fair enough. Are you looking for a half hatchet in particular? That seems to fit your description the best. Flat bit, hammer poll. They are generally on a standard 12” handle, but I’m sure you could find a replacement 18” to throw on it.
EDIT: Estwing is something to look at. Very good product and on a steel handle. They have the campers hatchet and a campers axe that are both close to what you’re looking for.
Estwing Camper's Axe - 14" Hatchet with Forged Steel Construction & Shock Reduction Grip - EO-25A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8STIVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_062YBbD41Y5CK
Estwing Fireside Friend Axe - 14" Wood Splitting Maul with Forged Steel Construction & Shock Reduction Grip - E3-FF4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HAEI1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r.2YBb972F01R
>I got it on Amazon, there are brass and aluminum ones as well for a few dollars more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A2C0ZYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7UZEAb3PD9FS6
Thanks! Apparently my google-fu isn’t great. I could never find one.
>Nice score on your first HB! Which pattern?
It is a pre-1988, 2 1/4# and I would say it is a yankee pattern. When I get back home, I’ll add a picture. I still haven’t hung it. I’ve got 9 heads and handles waiting to be married. I promised myself I wouldn’t buy anymore until these were hung. I broke that by buying the Hults head. I definitely have to hang these before hanging the HB, trying to stay true to my word. We shall see how that goes.
Do you think any normal Mora style knife would be ok for carving? I just purchased one of these
You forged that head yourself? That's awesome. I've been looking deep into the intranets for an affordable bearded axe to no avail. And sounds like you're looking to do something along the lines of my latest project. For something like this, depending on the extent of woodburning you're thinking of, it could take a very long time. Mine took me a solid 10 hours to do 15" twice (both sides of handle), not including the practice and stuff. But the end product would look sweet if you did. If you're looking for leather grips, my recommendation would be to get leather Lacing. I got 12 ft of 1/8" wide for mine. I decided to put it around the base of the head, but it would make an excellent (and aesthetic) grip. Here's a link to check if you desire. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8TV8UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1