I did this recently as well. I started with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-LNDDRIPKIT-Micro-Bubblers-Micro-Sprays/dp/B07QNM7575/
I bought an extra roll of 1/2 tubing to make it all the way around my yard, and I bought extra drip emitters at the hardware store, but I think I'm still under $100 and I have a ton of extra parts.
If you do this, one tip that might save you some frustration: These kits usually include a tool to help you puncture the 1/2 tubing with the adapters for the 1/4 distribution line. If you attempt to use this tool only, you will get tiny leaks about half the time. After doing a couple their way, I started drilling a pilot hole with a 1/16 inch drill bit and it worked much better.
>I am also not counting the cost to run and all that. Just if I can make any money at all is what I'm wondering.
When you say "make 10k" are you talking gross or net? You could pay someone 20K to buy a 10k apple from you if you're not taking into account costs. You really cant answer this in any meaningful sense without analyzing costs and projected revenue. Are you going to wholesale apples? Are you going to sell them direct to the consumer? Are you going to process them into value added products? Are there other revenue streams you can stack on that land, such as livestock, tourism, propagation? There are so many questions to answer before you can even think about answering a specific revenue question like that.
The Organic Farmer's Business Handbook was require reading in my sustainable ag program. Its a good place to start. https://www.amazon.com/Organic-Farmers-Business-Handbook-Complete/dp/1603581421 There are also plenty of other guides to managing finances and revenue projections for market gardening and farming.
Get a copy of Grow a Little Fruit Tree, it talks about how to keep trees small. 100 sq ft is pretty darn small, but if you're willing to be pretty aggressive about it (and depending on what's around the area, is this all you can spare in an open spot, or fenced in?) you should be able to fit at least 3 trees there.
I have no idea if you'll be able to get perry out of it, though...
Hi, yes those are 1 gallon grow bags. I got them in amazon. Here's the link, I hope it helps. https://www.amazon.com/Viagrow-Grow-Bags-Pack-Gallon/dp/B01DUWESSO/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=1+gallon+grow+bags&qid=1591665061&sprefix=1gallon+grow+bags&sr=8-16
The granules are bit easier to apply, but you need to apply 3x a year for 2-3 years in a row versus the powder which only needs 1 application; however they tend to last twice as long as the powder (20 years versus 10). Here’s an article. We used pheromone bags for the first time this year, and so far, our apple and peach trees are have survived most of JB season with little foliage damage. Our property backs up to several acres of undeveloped wooded lots, and we still seem to have controlled the worst of the onslaught.
I'm no expert, but I'd wager a bird as well... We're trying out some fruit netting this year to protect our pears.
I don't know if these are the exact ones, but something like this should help to protect them from whatever threat you're experiencing.
These traps worked well for me last year when the beetles were crazy and eating all my fruit trees.
You're welcome! By the way, regarding pruning, I highly recommend Grow a Little Fruit Tree, which goes into detail about how to keep trees at a manageable size, and much else about tree care. It hurts my soul to cut a new baby tree back to a stick at knee height, but it ends with a tree at a much more manageable size. Of course if you want an orchard you might not want to go that far, but I think the book would still be valuable to you.
I have always done my hardwood cuttings in a greenhouse of some kind. To replicate that, you’d need the heat mat, plastic tent, and grow light. Is it the best way? I honestly can’t say. I would rely more on Dirr’s guide to plant propagation. It is still in print, https://www.amazon.com/Reference-Manual-Woody-Plant-Propagation/dp/1604690046, and you can probably get it from your library on interlibrary loan. Or you can ask your county’s cooperative extension master gardener group if their office has a copy, and if so have them tell you what it says about your species. That is what I would do if I absolutely had to get it right. Meanwhile, your cuttings should be fine until your authoritative info comes in.
Sticks fruit tree spike near tree https://www.amazon.com/Jobes-Citrus-Fertilizer-8-11-11-Release/dp/B000GD8N14/
Throw a bunch of mulch on the tree around the stem. Just make sure to not have any touching the trunk or risk rot.
If you see bugs and don't want your tree eaten something like bonide orchard spray works well and has never caused any damage to my apple trees. I spray few times a season especially when I see Japanese beetles/rust spots. https://www.amazon.com/BONIDE-PRODUCTS-203-Fruit-Spray/dp/B000RUE81U
But remember it's fine if nature eats some as long as your tree is fruiting you can share some leaves with local critters.
For perimeter fencing in areas with moderate to heavy deer presence you want fencing 7-8ft tall. Deer can jump up to 8ft high. You'd get 10ft T posts and 8ft fencing. The fencing you posted is not strong enough to stop an interested deer. you'd want something like this. In addition you want to wrap the trunks of the individual trees in tree wrap or hardware cloth to stop rodents girdling the tree when it's young. It needs to go taller then your deepest expected snow. Electrified fence is another option for the perimeter but I'm not very familiar with it. I have little kids and I believe if branches fall on the fence it can compromise it as well, didn't want to deal with all that.
Blueberries need well drained soil so be sure whatever you use won't compact too much. They also require a very acidic soil. My source said not to even plant them until the soil pH was below 5. Okay range of 4.6 to 4.9.
Coast of Maine Organic Natural Garden Compost Potting Planting Soil Blend for Acid Loving Plants, Bushes, and Flowers, 20 Quart Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZWFJ8PF/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_ES1JQV3KQWYTFZDXKTT9
Why would you defoliate a healthy tree?
You prune branches for the overall shape of the tree. We personally use the guidelines in <em>Grow A Little Fruit Tree</em> for that. I'm not sure I'd do a summer prune on a tree that small, maybe that tall branch could come down some. But you can probably get away with just doing a winter prune this year.
We’ve intentionally kept our trees smaller but use something like this for spraying with.
RL FLOMASTER 36HE6 RL Flo-Master Chameleon Hose End Sprayer, Natural https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B174GKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N7JGADZN2WSFA7KXZ80W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve found this book valuable. It covers pruning for a variety of trees & plants.
Pruning and Training, Revised New Edition: What, When, and How to Prune https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1465457607/
Looks like its done for, your best bests to chop it and save the rest of the tree. Unless you want to air layer that big portion.
Not sure how well plums root but you could shave off the bottom portion closest to the ground and push it down completely so it makes contact with the lose soil in hopes that it roots. Its still connected to the tree so it will still receive some nutrients but you should still cut back a good portion of its foliage to help it not die off.
Essentially what youre aiming for is an advanced high stress propagation technique used to clone bigger woodier trees. Theres tool to do this method but your trunk is broken off and too big method tool heres a link on the basics im sure itll explain better than i did
There's a lot of good information on YouTube and in book form. I'll link two places below.
In general, you are deciding the shape and height of the tree. It can be whatever you want it to be within some reason. You can let it go full wild and large (if it's full size rootstock) or you can turn it into some art piece conceived in an estate garden. Most people at home prune it to be convenient to pick and convenient to prune; around 8ft tall max and whatever width fits the space.
With all that as preamble, I would try and straighten the trunk if you can. As the tree gets bigger that angle will cause unnecessary stress on the roots, especially in wind and with fruit load. You'll figure the rest out I'm confident.
The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way https://www.amazon.com/dp/1933392134/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QG64YZDSFWZTFGK8PRR5
This is essentially girdling the tree. I’ve had a tree that was partially done survive by painting with tree pruning sealer. You should try and paint several coats over all of the damaged surfaces on the tree. pruning sealer link I didn’t use this brand but it was the first one that popped up when searching.
I’m also in 9b! My succulents have always suffered more than my trees, but I found these outlets on amazon that automatically turn on when the temp goes below 32 and off when it goes back above 42 (or something like that). I run Christmas lights from them so I don’t have to worry about always turning the lights on or off:
Farm Innovators TC-3 Cold Weather... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006U2HD2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Like this or something different? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003URK9UG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2HZSDKB12ETZVK2DQBB0
I read about meat but I’m nervous I’d attract more than just wasps, we’ve got raccoons, foxes, maybe coyotes, and my neighbors cat lol.
I bought this. It was our first time using them, and I don’t get the sense that they brought more JB onto our property. Maybe different folk have had a different experience? I haven’t heard of that before, so I can’t speak to that, but I do plan on using them again as part of our approach. I hate using single-use plastic, so I will probably see if I can reuse the bags and just replace the little pheromone tray.
Apple rust spray with something like
They make a hose attach version
I know you mentioned not using insecticide but I found these granules that you feed to the plant in early spring and it makes the Japanese Beatles not touch the leaves! It's called: Bonide (BND95349) - Insect Control Systemic Granules, 0.22% Imidacloprid Insecticide
Edit to say sorry it's not for edible plants
Here is a link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWZ9U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_EYTWWD0Q03991NXMZ13G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get yourself a can of IV Organic 3 in 1 plant and tree guard. Paint the wound area with it from a couple inches above the wound all the way to the base of the tree where it meets the soil. This seals the wound, preventing further damage from moisture, sun, and insects. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQ15TX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_D5TJSP0XRTMAAJJKWMBD
I've been using these for three years and have no complaints. I usually just stick them in pots but I'm sure you can tie a tag around a branch just the same
These leave an impression on them long after the ink fades
I have two of these lights in my house. I bring all my dwarf citrus trees (orange, lemon, lime, as well as avocado and fig) inside over the winter. I have the lights on a timer. The trees like it fine.
This is the bag we used last winter:
Heavy Duty Plant Cover Warm Worth Frost Protection Bag/Blanket/Jacket,Shrubs Trees from Being Damaged,Bad Weather Pests for Season Extension Frost Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4XLPCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xquqvkbL3mDum
Edit: I would get the smallest size because they are really large. The smaller the bag, the easier to heat up
Also know as footies. Nylon socks/ netting to protect the fruit. Amazon sells themNetting bags Has worked for me along with oriental moth traps.
I would always recommend The Backyard Orchardist by Stella Otto to anyone who wants to start out. The book is honest and informative, and she's a local that I respect. It covers all major fruit trees, not just peaches, but as a single book for a beginner I think it does very well.
I like this book, but it made me want so many more trees and bushes.
I leave the leaves for now. Next year, when it gets established, you can prune them off. But I like to leave that until the winter when they're dormant unless they're causing harm to the tree (by rubbing against other branches or being diseased).
For now, just give them "about an inch" of water every week to two weeks. I translate this to about 5 gallons (assuming 1" deep in a circle of a few feet) so I have a bucket with a small hole that drips or drizzles water out slowly. I just rotate that around my new trees every weekend.