Thats a big oof! I'm not saying don't DIY, but aside from the cosmetic aspect, you may have a lot of damage that you can't see inside the tube. If you are a MTN biker and your frame takes a lot of stress, I'd really try to find someone in town that has the tools like an ultrasound scope to at least check it out and give some recommendations.
If it was my bike, and I didn't want to mess with taking it to a pro, I'd skip the uni and get woven CF and just wrap the tube with maybe 2 layers that extended 2-3 inches past each side of the visible damage. Here is a patch kit on amazon. Sand the whole area where you'll be applying the new CF so it has a roughed up surface to adhere to, then once everything is dry, you can sand through all the grits up to like 600 and then buff it, but its going to be a very obvious patch no matter what you do unless you get into learning about scarf repair. Its OK, your bike will have a battle scar haha.
Also if you screw up sanding to get the finish you like, you can always clean it and "paint" on another coat of epoxy.
Yes but go light as to not burn into the fibers or you will see the surface reflection change in those areas after you clear it.
You might be able to use compressed air to help lift/remove the failing clear coat in any areas that it’s lifting before you start sanded 600grit, wet sand lightly. Just enough to smooth the surface and rough it up for new clear to bond.
Use a 2-stage clear coat. (It’s a curing two part clear) it will last much longer and be tougher You can get it in a activating spray can also , check on amazon for “2k clear coat”
Or: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_klHMFbZTE9PGY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on the size of the parts, you may want something much larger. I used these clothing storage vacuum bags from Amazon. Worked nicely.
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I am not at the office and don't have my cards with me but below is a link to one of their finished goods using carbon fiber. They run a substantial pulltruded thermoplastic composites manufacturing and converting business.
JEC Link to Double Fish Composites
Double Fish Ping Pong Paddles in Composite.
Source - I am a career thermoplastics composites business guy who runs a competitive NAFTA producer.
make the mold thick enough that it's pretty rigid, depends on the size and geometry of the part. At least 1/8", maybe 1/4" for a larger or flatter part.
Mold release is easy: start out with rub-on car wax or mold release wax and follow the directions exactly. i like this stuff cause it makes a nice hard finish: https://www.amazon.com/Partall-Hi-Temp-Paste-Wax-12oz/dp/B07RV4K18Y
agree with relevant-object, start with polyester resin and fiberglass cloth and do some hand layups. When you want to do carbon, you'll need a vacuum pump because the fabric is too stiff to lay into the mold without external pressure. for vacuum bagging resins, start with west system 105 epoxy. it's the standard and works well. do a handful of parts before trying something like vacuum infusion. you can get a cheap robinair vac pump but do a few hand layups first before investing in the bagging film, breather, release fabrics etc.
That's a nuts price. Different gun with pps 2.0 from the looks of it. 2.0 fixes a lot of the minor annoyances I bought it because it was only slightly more than the El cheapo gun. Worth every penny. In fairness it was 8 years ago. But it lasted 8 years of use and bad behaviour from employees so I'd buy it again even now. That kit comes with a pile of nozzles etc. They are disposable but really I used them for a few months at least, liners and lids were different, I'd keep reusing those for the day though, some people use once. That's pricey.
Note this is the one I bought. https://www.amazon.com/Accuspray-16587-Spray-Gun-Kit/dp/B00AJVE1ZU
I'm building a thing and need a mold of my chest/torso to rest on in a prone position - I was going to get this kit (it's the perfect size/dims) - but I'm wondering how to form fit it to my chest. Would a chicken wire mold work to put the fiber sheet on? Any suggestions?
Not sure what the components look like, but this is the bushing they use for linear movement for 3d printers, I'm pretty sure you could adapt it to work for your purpose.
If you have a PLC, a means to program it. Put this up stream of your resin trap. So it can turn on and off a solid state reply (SSR) that controls your vacuum pump.
Definitely use a 2k (chemically curing) clear coat. You can get cans of it on amazon in different finishes. Clear, matte, Simi matte etc. works well. You activate it and it has a few hour pot life.
Spray max 2K Clear Coat Semi Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Y4QTVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p0UfFb6TP3VA3
USC Spraymax Matte Clearcoat 3680065 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178ABUVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K1UfFb6WJ04R4
bayite AC 110V Fahrenheit Digital Temperature Controller 10A 1 Relay with Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011VGASLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WEs7DbQMS6Y60
I have used this temp controller ($17.90) with a heat gun or heating element to great effect. Far more precise than an oven. Ovens actually will way overshoot the set temp when heating up and fluctuate a great deal when “holding” a temp.
Or get an arduino with a few temp probes and relays and program the entire stepped heat cure or post cure to be done automatically.
Composite Materials: Design and Applications, Third Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1466584874/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ucboAbFZP7CNV
Not a complete course but check out this book. If you're in the USA you can go to your local library and check this book out using the interlibrary loan program. It does a good job of covering the basics of laminate theory, design, and manufacturing.
Composite Materials: Design and Applications, Third Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1466584874/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ucboAbFZP7CNV
Check out this book. If you're in the USA you can go to your local library and check this book out using the interlibrary loan program. It does a good job of covering the basics of laminate theory, design, and manufacturing.
Ive never needd to use a pump with a vacuum tank before. But the most basic kind of pump to get looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TULOLS2?psc=1
Then we use degassing chambers and resin traps that are made from spray paint pressure tanks: http://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global%C2%AE-Pressure-Paint-Nozzle/dp/B002ABWVRM
We found the pressure tanks locally for less than 50 bucks for the whole kit so we made both out of those, by removing a lot of the plumbing and replacing it with PE tubing and seal taping the joint after to ensure they don't leak. But if your on a budget you could probably make a degassing chamber and resin trap combo to do both jobs. So all told you could get a pump, trap and degasser for less than 200 bucks. Does that sound like it could be inside your budget?