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Love my OMTech, but I don't have experience with any other brand. It worked right out of the box. No alignment necessary. I am using it just for cutting. For that purpose, you absolutely need an air assist. I bought a $50 air pump off of Amazon and it works great. These are the last things that I cut. They are only 5" high, so that's some intricate detail that I didn't think I was going to be able to pull off.
Other than wood, the only thing I had to purchase was transfer tape (to keep the burn off). I tried a few and this is the one you want.
6" flex duct is probably easier to find.
Ideally, you keep the flex stuff short (but with somewhat generous 90° bends) and use PVC piping for longer sections.
The most appropriate type of flex duct is the multi-layer stuff with aluminium on the inside and PVC on the outside:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791V19H7
If sparks etc ever find their way into that hose, it's much less likely to catch fire. And it's of course a lot more robust than the flimsy single-layer aluminium stuff.
Obligatory 'check your connections', because that's the first step in troubleshooting, but...
I had a very similar issue with my 50W when I first got it. And yes, if a PSU is rated for 24v but is only putting out 21v, it's a good bet that the PSU is your issue.
- The main controller normally only runs on 5v, so as long as it's getting voltage and the display is lighting up, it's probably fine
- The stepper controllers are off-the-shelf components, and pretty reliable
- The motors are NEMA, and are probably more reliable than the rest of the components combined
So the weak link, most likely, is the PSU. They normally use super cheap, off-brand ones, and it probably had a defect that only presented after being vibrated and jostled during shipping.
FWIW, I ended up ordering a replacement through Amazon because the eBay seller took around a full month to get a new one to me. Now I have two, but it gives me a little peace of mind to have a backup.
That is an Arduino Nano, Amazon link, and some stepper motor drivers. Link to Lightburn post with similar hardware. Looks like they got it working with that gnea/grbl and Xloader combination. Good luck, let us know if it works.
printing a tiny image sounds like a settings issue in the controller. Either interpretting inches as mm, or some steps per mm count being off.
With regard to COM issues, first thing I'd check is that the baud rate is set correctly. I think it needs to be something like 11520, but google will know better :)
Also I highly suggest using a decent quality shielded USB cable. Amazon or Monoprice would be a good source for that. Here's the one I use with my GRBL CNC Router:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VOPCGY
I've had decent success with these 12inx12inx3mm birch sheets I got off amazon. 45 sheets for $65 (these were down to $60 a while back).
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Really depends on how much you like messing around with tricks and tips to stay cheap.
I bought the CW-5000 a few months back for $485 shipping included from Amazon, pretty good deal really.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075F2JY97/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This thing is a beast, it's quite large but it works fantastically!
Being pretty much plug and play is of much greater value to me than cycling ice packs in bucket.
I tried the ice method with the K40 I started out with and it works but takes a fair bit of attention and planning.
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Turn this thing on and it chills from 24C ambient to 18C in less than 10 minutes and keeps it there without issue on a 60W tube.
Not having to manage my cooler lets me do the things I actually want to do with the laser.
I just mean i have a hefty stack of copper-clad FR4 i already bought years ago. Here's what the presensitized photo resist boards cost:
The reflected light would not have been much of a concern. It would have been too diffuse to cause any harm.
However, safety glasses (like these) should always be worn around high power coherent light.
Great thanks - I've got the Cloudray series K, using silicone 8mm OD tubing and a 35L/min pump. I also plan to point a PC fan at my PSU - should I know be pretty risk free of a fire?
I printed a K40 duct i found on thingiverse for the 4x8 opening and then used a 12v inline bilge vent fan about 6ft away from the enclosure using some 3.5in flexible vent hose.
I ran the fan supply wires inside the vent hose to a toggle switch on the control panel so it keeps it neat. Then i run about 15ft of hose from the fan to the back door of my work area.
everything is plugged in snug, not sure what the issue could be there. as for ethernet, I want to try it but my living situation makes using my router impractical, and I'd rather not have to disconnect form the internet to use my laser. Would a splitter like this work for this connection?
thanks. I have the additional 24V PSU that is shown in the listing at least. as far as stepper drivers, I have some left over ULN2003 drivers, would those work? assuming they don't, how about this model?
I got everything shown in the listing i linked, including the display unit and the 24v switch power supply (though I'm also unsure how to wire that)
as far as drivers go, how do I know what to get? I have some left over stepper motors form a different project along with their ULN2003 driver boards, would a pair of those work? how about this model? I assume i need one for each axis?
thanks for your help
The frame and motors are half crap. Not totally, because they are still very solid, but...
Yes, just drop him a message in any of the youtube videos and let him know your email in any way; this will do: https://privnote.com/#
He will contact you later on.
It has a diagram of some sorts on the Amazon listing in the pictures of the listing, but the way my laser is, there’s no wires that can go into some of these terminals that this psu has
I bought a scissor table from Amazon. Since the case of the k40’s aren’t terribly sturdy I did drill and tap a hole on each corner of the bottom. That way I could adjust the height of each corner. Worked really well until I sold the k40. SUCOHANS Lab Jack Stand Table Lift Laboratory Lift Table Aluminium Oxide Lab Stand Lifter Scientific Scissor Lifting Jack Platform (8"X8") https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YMZWJK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EK4W0GJBFWFXRMP03N3G?psc=1
I use spray on moly lube works great and cleans up with ipa. About 10 bucks for a spray can. CRC 3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) 16 oz Aerosol Can, Dark Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J62P4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZZN1WNDVMCTJE54DN6V2
I used a cheap carpenter's square I had lying around.
Square
Raise the bed up, set the square on the bed and push it back to the flat part of the laser head on both the x and y axis. you'll see pretty easily if it's square to the bed or not. Mine wasn't and I just loosened the mounting bolts and moved it until it was flat against the square.
I did this in conjunction with aligning the lasers. If you do it without planning to align the beams you'll introduce a new error. But....if you have not adjusted the beams and still running the factory setup, you'll likely find out that it needs tweaking anyway.
Mostly what is used is a really good piece of freeware called K40 Whisperer
It is compatible with the stock controller, which is usually what's known as the M2 Nano. There is a list of compatible boards on the K40 Whisperer website
If you want to upgrade the board for more functionality and to use another awesome, and in my opinion, a far better piece of software called Lightburn, there are a couple of good options to do that as well.
Basically to do what you want to do I think would be just buy the machine and get it set up, download the software and start cutting. It will come with everything you need to get it running and you'll see what you will need to upgrade right away. You can tell which components go in the garbage immediately and which ones you can get away with using now.
Invest in an air pump, something like THIS and 3D print you an air assist nozzle and go for it.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761S558B/
That's a knockoff. I recommend to get a genuine one by S&A.
The knockoffs often lack cooling capacity or they may use refrigerants which have been phased out in developed countries.
E.g. the label on this one says it uses R-22 which has been phased out in the US. Buying new equipment which uses R-22 is illegal in the EU since 2010.
(I can't say anything about the one sold by Omtech since I can't view their website.)
Check S&A's website if you want to see how the genuine ones look like:
https://www.teyuchiller.com/co2-laser-chillers_c1
(The rainbow text is a fairly new thing.)
If you are looking at the front mine is on the left side. I have the CW5200DG, and this
AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6, Quiet 6” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPFVZTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WDRFEVM1KCCV09STZ2AD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The only thing I had to do is take off their zip ties and put on stronger hose connectors - it did leak everywhere the first week I was using it from the hose popping off - but have had zero issues since I did that - if you get it I can send you my library for engraver power settings also - that was a lot of my time figuring out what to use on what
I am going to be order it probably tonight or tomorrow. I was going to get the omtech chiller, but the one you mentioned looks $50 cheaper on Amazon? Is this one the one you have?
Hoses and connectors is first on my list to replace, with adding the chiller. I'll pick up a rotary after I get it all dialed in. Did yours come with the lcd ammeters? Also, I would love to get a copy of your setting library! I'm ordering lightburn, but not sure if I'm going to use it yet, I use illustrator for svgs in the past on an epilog 50w.
https://omtechlaser.com/products/6l-water-chiller-lcw-5200-us?variant=32189417422913
Few notes:
- I wouldn't avoid any of the well-rated US based K40 ebay sellers - $80 cheaper is nothing to sneeze at. My one looks like it had been opened and checked by the seller before I got it (but def. not second hand).
- Remarkably almost everything in the K40 actually works. Traditionally people have been paranoid about the internal grounding being painted over. Worth checking
- At least consider safety glasses, especially as the stock K40 doesn't have an interlock to prevent laser firing while the lid is open! I thought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7KZJ8F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 was a reasonable choice - and at $USD 30 they're cheap insurance. Hitting anywhere else leaves a small, but surprisingly annoying, burn spot. I only needed one to learn :)
- Make sure the cooling water is hooked up and running before running the laser! Check it every time!
- A cheap water flow switch is good insurance there (but play a little first...)
- Until you get a current meter stay under 30% on the digital panel. The actual laser power will vary from unit to unit, but 100% is far, far too much. BTW you don't need to actually add one physically if you're confident with electrical things - the metalwork is a absolute PITA. A normal digital meter SET TO CURRENT and temporarily inserted in series with the laser ground (to work out the relationship) is OK if you feel confident working around high voltages (or make sure you stand back!) - but redo it occasionally as the tube ages.
- Do not use the power receptacles on the rear panel! The ones on mine actually squeeze the water pump plug out while cutting - socket melting or pump stopping (destroying the tube!) seemed inevitable.
I have that exact one. It's a great deal. Everything came perfectly aligned. I didn't have to do a thing.
You will want to add an air assist, though. I ran a $50 compressor through the back and I just duct taped the tube right next to the laser pointer. It made a HUGE difference.
You will likely want to grab some transfer tape too. It makes everything nice a clean. I've tried a few. This is the best (and probably a lifetime supply.)
I just went to grab one of these. Here are their only shipping options:
UPS-Expedited (4-8 days) $114.00
UPS-Saver (3-5 days) $137.50
DHL Express (3-7 days) $171.00
Is this normal? Is this like the old Ebay scam where they put all the cost on the shipping to avoid fees?
I have no doubt this tube is inferior, but it's $133 with free shipping and will be here by Thursday. Is the other one really that much better?
I got one off Amazon, Arducam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F2FN51Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A58J3050HSZNTATSDG0K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I did get the lightburn one but nothing but headache, got no reply from their support when their $80 camera didn’t work, won’t focus and randomly connects and disconnects.
Perfect. I found this pump on Amazon and it seems to generate the perfect amount of air for cutting acrylic, and it's incredibly quiet (and fits in the control panel compartment perfectly too). I couldn't imagine fitting a compressor tank in my apartment just to blow a bit of air.
I recently picked up this from Amazon non affiliate link... It works well and has adapters to go from most things. You may need to hit Lowes for a 1/4 adapter for your compressor to fit
I’ve got basically the exact same one, but 80w.
It’s been a great little machine over 10+ months.
Thoughts: For sure add the inline fan. I got this one. Is your compressor big enough to handle continuous air output, regular compressors aren’t typically meant for that and can burn up the motors. The built in went out fairly quickly for me so I got thisone. I’d add some led strips on the inside to really add some lighting, it’s very hard to see details through the plexi. I did adjust and change the lens out but I only run one type of material at one focal length 99.5% of the time and honestly the OEM would have been fine. (What I got does allow me to use the standard size lenses though)
I just got a CW-5200 and it’s a huge upgrade over frozen water jugs.
Regrets:
A bigger more powerful machine. I would love to have 130w with a 30x48 inch bed.
Sucks you are going through that with them. I was extremely weary about buying one through ebay even though they were generally cheaper. I have had some bad outcomes on ebay and pretty much nothing but good outcomes on Amazon. I'm not sure how much you paid for the 60w but perhaps you could spend a few hundred more and just get the same one I did? Nearly double the power should offer more flexibility and longer tube life when being used at lower power levels is how I convinced myself I needed 100w.
100w without lightburn for $3,400: https://www.amazon.com/Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Engraver-Interface/dp/B07F3QP4FT?ref_=ast_sto_dp
If you decide to go that route, they should be able to just change your order over to the 100w and bill you the difference. Since they have somewhat inconvenienced you, they may cut some off the price to keep you happy. I would send them an email and see what they will do for you.
I ordered the 60w . I ordered it at like 3 am 3/30 but mine did not come with the lightburn software so the only time I've heard from them was the request to cancel today. There are some listed for slightly cheaper on ebay but once I factored in the cost of the residential / liftgate fee, my general weariness of ebay, and my 2% cashback on amazon gift cards.. amazon just seemed like the better/safer bet. Kinda wishing I would have taken the gamble on ebay now though because I'm afraid when they issue the refund it will just go to my amazon balance which would make sense as it was my payment method but limits my options on reordering. I at the same time also ordered several additions for it that I found highly recommended in other forums, that are in shipping already. I believe the majority of them will be compatible with most other lasers I might order, but it's all so super disappointing right now.
A few days ago I made a post asking about getting an 80W or waiting for a 100W to come in stock. Well, I noticed late at night last night that there was one 100W in stock so I made a semi-informed/semi-impulse buy to grab it before it went back out of stock for god knows how long. Did I buy the "right" one? It's probably not too late to get my money back.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088FQPM86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_YQN4N1Q2B23DXYB6DK2H
I have gone through and ordered the first Blue & Gray I listed, along with a 4 wheel style rotary. I'm going to wait and see how it goes and decide which chiller to get since I wont be running production. I've ordered a mA meter and have all the stuff to use my compressor as an air assist. I've got an exhaust point ready for the venting from an old Furnace outlet.
Has anyone used a temperature controller to cut off the laser if the temps get out of range? Something like so? https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Pre-wired/dp/B01KMA6EAM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=temperature+controller+15+amp&qid=1615937164&sr=8-4
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I've also got a few extra smart plugs and relays I could use to make sure the water pump is running before the laser could fire. Would this be useful or is it just overkill?
I have this laser, you don’t need a special extension cord. I’ve been running for a year on a regular 14ga power tap;
Yellow Jacket 5148 Modern 8-Outlet Metal Power Block with 2 USB Ports, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P99ZRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XAW6TQQYCRVRT3AXN2EK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's specifically called a NEMA 5-15P to C13.
These are very thick and pretty sure it's true 14 awg. You can not get a 5-15 in 30a as it's a 15a plug.
NEMA 5-20P to C13 being 20a
NEMA L5-30P to IEC C13 being 30.
i have the 100w second one, i guess they pushed the price up in the last few months.
the motorised Z is stupid simple to add if you do it the way i did it, its a cheap addition and does make life a little easier as well as adding a useful feature during cutting, i posted notes in here a while ago.
the omtechs seems to come with an actual ruidia controller
copied and pasted a comment from a similar thread.
"for our 100w thats similar, i removed the onboard air pump since its garbage and used an external compressor, removed the internal fan and have a pull extractor, added motorised z and thinking about adding a proper mA display , haven't added it yet but picked one up
changed the mirrors and lense for nicer ones too.
and the 3 gallon heat exchanger that is like 150$ from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5MHJL4/ "
i've been pretty happy with the machine after a few mods, i've got replacement linear rails i haven't gotten around to installing yet or updating the head but that is mostly unecessary i just wanted to properly do the trucks as none off the cheap lasers do it right.
My exhaust goes out the left side. I don't know where my incoming is? I haven't modified that in any way. This is the exhaust fan that I have hooked up to it. My cuts are coming out great right now with the compressor though. Do you think too much air causes a problem?
Would any air compressor work? Sorry I'm not very familiar with them or how they work. Like would something small and portable work like this?
I have limited space, so I want to get something that's not going to take up too much room, but work optimally.
So taking all of that into account, the below two would likely be good options
Orion Motor Tech 80W CO2 Laser Engraver Cutter with 28 x 20in Work Area, Laser Engraving Cutting Machine with Ruida Digital LCD Control Real-Time Power Data, Safety Sensor, USB Port, Air Assist https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVJ8DJP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_o9s4FbE2X7YQ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Laser Engraver Cutter Cutting Engraving Marking Machine 80w 28"x20" https://www.ebay.com/p/9019751173?iid=252370336485
They both seem to have the right tube (not high-hat), they seem to use Rudia controllers, and the Amazon one seems to already have a mA meter.
Need to go google this Russ guy as he is mentioned a ton when looking at lasers lol.
The rest of what you seemed easy enough to upgrade what is provided no?
we noticed the existing y axis only seems to be held on by two bolts to the existing carriage so figured might as well upgrade it to a dual carriage rail while we were in there.
I thought i'd have to cut the rail since 700mm was the closest with going over that i could find, but it looks like it'll fit without a cut so that is nice.
OK so the seller got back to me and offered this 60W laser cutter instead which has motor-controlled bed height and auto-focus sensor included, plus a wider build area, two-way pass through for long pieces, a honeycomb bed etc.
Anyone have any thoughts on this machine?
I’m sure sales are on the horizon.
California Air Tools 8010 Steel Tank Air Compressor | Ultra Quiet, Oil-Free, 1.0 hp, 8 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WM1VPKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_ZqwUFb1KXG9WD
I have this hooked up on mine in between my air compressor and the nozzle. It’s bolted to the side of my bench. Not sure if your using an aquarium pump or a real compressor so I can’t say it will work on your system for sure but I don’t see why not.
Tailonz Pneumatic 1/4 Inch NPT... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHP8PQN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks for the reply.
I have access to a warehouse in Montana. I am most likely going to go the Amazon route.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1H3G04
I think this makes sense for a couple of reasons. 1. I can avoid the hassle of negotiating with shippers, we have a loads coming and going from that site to Edmonton on a daily basis. I just need to deal with US customs which I am accustomed to. 2. If I have any issues I have a NA seller. From the looks of the account they seem to be very responsive to feedback. 3. I will have the unit delivered in 3-4 weeks max.
I am paying a slight premium, but its not that significant over going through Ebay or Alibaba.
I agree that precision is useful - most of my vector and raster engraves are between .55 and .8v, so I like being able to fine tune it I bought these from Amazon, a 3-pack for $8 - if the first one ever breaks, I have two spares.
¯_(ツ)_/¯
similar cutter , where it says its a ruida controlled unit ; https://www.amazon.nl/Controller-400x400mm-Werkgebied-Snijmachine-Honingraat/dp/B08FJCN1CL/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_nl_NL=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=50w+co2+laser+engraving+machine&qid=1602783317&sr=8-8
I could certainly stream the correct Lhymicro-gl stuff to device in a few ways. Heck I have an android app that can control the M2 Nano (uses USB-OTG). Once you understand how the CH341A chip works and what's needed to run the M2 things get a bit easier.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.meerk40t.k40ntrol
I could add in features to that app to let it stream lhymicro-gl code to the device from .EGV files and have MeerK40t produce .egv files. You could also just stuff a RPi into the case and VNC in there.
Nice! It’s pretty quiet.
FYI: On our first extended runtime my air assist pump went out. Ended up buying this one and haven’t had any issues with it running for multiple hours at a time.
VIVOHOME Electromagnetic Commercial Air Pump, 20W/32W/50W/102W, 317/950/1110/1750 GPH, Outlets for Aquariums, Fish Tank and Hydroponic Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H8ML3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tphHFbF12RXYC
As already commented check if it’s actually working. I have the red/black 80w that fan isn’t super quiet and you’ll hear it if it works you can also just look at it.
That said it does suck, I added an inline blower that works quite well.
VIVOHOME 6 Inch 395 CFM Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0796NBGRB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Good question! You're thinking right. It's a 24v PSU that gives a 5v rail as well. I used one of these to run the LEDs, and it's been solid for over a year now.
Seeing how you are in your apartment, the best way to ground the case is to use an external ground adaptor. See below link. You would think that you can trust the ground on your power cable but who knows many short cuts the factory took to assemble your machine. I've had my 80w red/black for a few months now and I'm always finding little things wrong or screws that aren't tight. Be safe and ground it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTHWYPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fl9sFb6W4EJ35
I’ve got the same depending on how new yours is. The stock fan is weak, I added an inline blower and it pulls up to 395 cfm, I ran the duct out the wall like a dryer vent. Much much better very little lingering fumes after cuts.
FYI, my built in air assist pump gave out after a nice long cutting session so I had to replace it, I got this one, so far so good and was more powerful then the built in one.
> What do you think about having one of these in a small living space? 100% bad idea?
It's really all about exhaust. I installed mine in my office, which is about 12'x17', but I own my house so I was able to cut a hole in the wall and install an exhaust vent. Since you're in an apartment, I'm guessing you'll be using a window exhaust vent? You'll just need to make sure it's a 6" port.
Even with my setup, I end up smelling a bit of what I'm cutting. Wood doesn't bother me at all, but acrylic can smell bad at times, and leather smells like burning hair. I just make sure I never cut anything dangerous (PVC, plywood with certain glues, etc), so it's not a huge deal, but it's something you need to consider.
EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention: You'll most likely want to get another exhaust fan. I got an inline fan with 6" ports from Amazon, similar to this. The built-in fan will work a bit, but you need something more powerful to really get the air moving.
I purchased this one from Amazon a couple of weeks ago.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CCYLV8L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It arrived in a week so was already in the U.K.
Their own website is listing it as sold out.
Following up, I ended up purchasing a similar model from Amazon instead. Here’s the product page: Orion Motor Tech Upgraded 80W CO2 Laser Engraving Cutting Machine, 20" x 28" Laser Engraver with Safety Sensor, USB Port, Air Assist and LightBurn Software, Compatible with Windows, Mac OSX, Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088FPQ8GT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3V2.EbQF3R5WJ The laser arrived about five days after placing the order. It’s been working perfectly so far and seems like a reasonable investment for the value.
Ah, that Russ. I had seen some of his videos, but didn't connect on the name.
Just so I understand my full downside risk here, once I get going, could I simply replace the whole head with something like this from CloudRay?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJYPBVM
Head/Lens/Mirror (20mm) for $120 on Amazon.
Or is there more to it?
Copper pipe for nozzle, better than anything printed, with aquarium plastic tubing.
A decent air pump like for a small airbrush.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0036OGDVC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=airbrush+pumpe&qid=1574724174&sr=8-7
As has been mentioned, getting a larger fan helps. I went with one of these (though my model is just variable speed without the temperature sensor), and it's been excellent.
Probably because it thinks 0 is right against the wall. I usually position the laser and cut from there (relative positioning). If you're using absolute positioning you may have to make a template that takes into account the additional offset on the left side.
The real solution would be to replace the sensor. There's some info if you Google "laser x axis sensor". For me, the part that needs replacing is this.
Was looking at one of these fans that I saw on this post (I like the 3D printed adapter). How did you connect the 12v to the system? Or did you just add a power inverter?
Sorry, got my units wrong... Gph is what I was thinking. I have this one and it works well!
VIVOSUN Air Pump 950 GPH 32W 60L/min 6 Outlet Commercial Air Pump for Aquarium and Hydroponic Systems (32 W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDKRYC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tCxHAbN4MTBPN
I don't understand why they don't ship right away - like I'm fine waiting if it is in transit but I tried two different sellers who never shipped despite listings saying they shipped in 24 hours! I just went with amazon instead so I'll see how that goes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFWJWOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1