Peerless 0154505 Auto-Trac Tire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091RCIOO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Keep in mind, this specific listing is for the 15 inch tires on the older crown Vic. I think the newer ones went to 16 inch, so best bet is to go onto peerless' website and plug in your tire size to find out what part number you need for the chains
Get one of these. Ingnore that amazon says they dont fit CVPIs. I have one in mine and have been absolutely thrilled with it.
Looks like the incorrect harness for the ford 9007 wiring.
eBay is a total hit-or-miss with most automotive parts --- especially electrical related stuff. Try going on cvn or amazon, look in the reviews and see if people had mentioned installing them on any 2000's ford vehicle.
I have been told that these fit and am considering them myself next paycheck
Performed the mod below with a relay from Amazon. Opening the steering column is alot easier than trying to finagle with the LCM harness IMO. Only negative is the relay clicks once or twice after I cancel the switch. The lights stop flashing the second you cancel but the relay still clicks once or twice. Seems to be normal operation according to the comments.
https://www.crownvic.net/drock96marquis/LCMflasherbypass.htm
United Pacific LED Flasher - 12V, 2 Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075G5XX5K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_T01JBWQ9MACEJPXBD1C1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
OlYeller01 might be right and it could be the shift solenoids. But I fear it might be the torque converter failing on you. You could try this:
​
If that helps - then you have the wrong fluid in there. Or the fluid is just crap.
AUXITO 9008 H13 LED Headlight Bulbs 12000LM Per Set 6500K Xenon White Slim Wireless High Low Hi/Lo Dual Beam Headlight, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYQVLYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_D-k-FbW80ZCF9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
AUXITO 9145 9140 H10 LED Fog Light Bulb Fanless, 3400LM Per Set, 6500K Cool White, CSP LED Chips, Fog Light Bulbs or DRL Replacement, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088GPXS1Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_l.k-FbN0BM4MZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure you have the right bulb type. They make all different ones if you go to their website.
Those appear to be NMO mounts from the photo. Very standard. Amazon has lots of caps for NMO mounts for just a few bucks, or you could also just get some antennas to put on them. Alternatively, Amazon also sells NMO rubber gaskets which will seal them so they don't leak anymore.
Not OP but I found this on Amazon and it looks like it's the same one https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-265-813-Transmission-Drain-Plug/dp/B00NF1PT8O
OP did you get a new seal or reuse the one that was there?
Mine is actually an LED offroad light bulb that happens to fit the spotlight housing, stumbled across it on Amazon for $36, ill see if i can find it back
Edit:
Check this out at Amazon.com Handxen 5.75'' LED Headlight H5001 H7635 PAR46 36W Unity Spotlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L62ZYKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_tFVXEbXAN9FD6
Looks like they finally upgraded the description to say it is for spotlights, original description when i bought mine last year was that it was an off road bulb for a KC light or something
I have like 300lb of stereo and tools in my trunk. I put in air lift 1000's and it raised the car back up 2" and you can vary the pressure from 5-35psi. Had them in since April 2017 (approx 25-30k km) with no issue.
EDIT: here's the link https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CFQ34A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a Canadian road controller P71 and I love it so far. The car is big, relatively comfortable, heavy. The feedback is great. I like how I can feel everything going on in the vehicle from behind the steering wheel. The only big disadvantage for me, being a 20 years old student working on my own startup is the mpg factor: Mine does around 17 miles per gallon and I feed my baby only the best unleaded gasoline from Shell.
Edit: Here's a picture of Victoria.
I bought a set of auxito led headlights for my 03 mgm off of Amazon. They were plug and play into the stock headlight housings and seem to be relatively well built. The drivers are integrated into the lights and are protected by the headlight housing as they are sealed in by the light, gasket, and cap
AUXITO 9007 LED Headlight Bulbs, 12000LM Per Set 6500K Xenon White Wireless HB5 High Low Beam Headlight Hi/Lo, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYQMT3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QHFZ386R9VPDN6W2WTWH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Much easier with the headlight adjusting tool.
Headlight adjustment for Vics
https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1827186
In all honesty, I'd recommend this. https://www.amazon.com/Seek-Racing-Window-Bumper-Sticker/dp/B07MR7H9QB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=not+a+cop+sticker&qid=1623689116&sr=8-1 I put one on my rear bumper so instead of making someone nervous for the next 14 exits I'll pass them for a moment so they can see the sticker. It also makes people give less f***s since they no you're not trying to be a Dewitte.
yeah there's a sensor on the side of the throttle body and it's fucked
this one's for my towncar, don't know if it will fit your vic exactly, there's a few interations for the various 4.6 and 5.4 cars
This is it. Pleasantly surprised by how it sounds, given how cheap it is. Had to mount longways, sort of halfway on top of rear vent duct
Rockville SS8P 400w 8" Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PRCP9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_X12QH58S2B34TJ5FZS2T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yo I gotcha fam.
Have a 2011 LX and had constant bottoming out when I was towing with it, I got Moog CC865 springs from Amazon. They're variable rate springs, so with an unloaded car they're only slightly stiffer than stock P71 springs, but when loaded they firm up nicely and handle heavy weights very easily. Highly recommended. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COTT1U
SEALIGHT 9007 HB5 Led Headlight Bulbs Hi/Lo Beam 12000LM 60W 24xCSP Chips LED Conversion Kit Dual Beam Bulb 6000K White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GT5G6V7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D0DAK17WSJDRKCA99Q8K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got the suggested wiring harness for my car model 09 p71 and it did not fit I found the police interceptor needs a different wiring harness this is the one I got and it fit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEWZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_PrH9FbSBN7WV9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm sure there are other brands but Havis, Jotto, and Gambler-Johnson are probably the three most prevalent police console brands.
I have this console (https://www.amazon.com/TSI-Products-54215-Clutter-Catcher/dp/B000WHACHC) which is exactly the same one that Autozone and Walmart both sell (I think it's a few dollars cheaper in store vs buying it off Amazon, though.) It fits between the seats pretty tight, but I also bolted it down onto the bracket/mounting plate that was left in my car from the police console just to make sure it doesn't slide around or jolt forwards/backwards. The cup holders are pretty stout, which was the main reason I got it - not a fan of the factory ashtray/cupholders.
Take a measurement of the gap between your seats and keep note of that when you go to the yard. It is probably 03-05 Explorers/Expeditions that use the smaller width console, if 97-02 was the first gens of Expedition.
Yeah they're fantastic. Mine are rated at a 12k lb gvw limit so it's more than strong enough for most cars/trucks, they stack/nest on each other so its not quite as huge for storage (although it's still pretty big compared to jackstands) and they're pretty lightweight. I usually just make sure I'm centered and to crawl up them slow so that they don't slide when I hit the top platform and stop. At $30 amazon Prime'd they've definitely paid off for how many times I've used them
I don't remember. I'm fairly sure it's a Dorman Products 265-813, but remember to cross-check that with model/year/transmission. Probably Amazon.
They are the AKKON Crown Vic black headlight housings on Amazon.
I got mine here on Amazon. They have clear lenses, not tinted, so no trouble with any tint laws, it's just the back of the housing that is black. My corner lights seem a little dimmer than with the normal housing, but that's because it's black instead of chrome now, and my bulb is on its way out.
My stock housings were all fogged, cracked and shaken up inside when I got the car, so the first thing I did was buy these off Amazon.
Driver’s Door Module. There is a free program you can get for a Windows PC that you can use to adjust features of your car’s programming. You just need the free program and a $30 ELM327 OBDII to USB adapter from Amazon/eBay
Here is a good recommended one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TZ8cDbFVTAADQ
Here is the free program: https://forscan.org/home.html
With this program you can adjust many features of your car previously only available at a dealer. Keyless entry, dark mode, daytime running lights, disable/enable tire pressure monitoring system, and much more.
https://www.amazon.com/RAMPAGE-PRODUCTS-31515-Locking-1976-1983/dp/B000V9FWSA
There's a few reviews on Amazon of it in P71s. This is the Jeep console that people refer to.
MOOG CC501 Coil Spring Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COMSYK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MOOG CC80551 Coil Spring Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00180J0T8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There is the front and rear set brotha man
A different axle wouldn't cause that; it would only throw off your speedometer and odometer.
Get your hands on an OEM Motorcraft transmission filter and Mercon V compatible fluid. A lot of aftermarket filters don't fit right.
Worst case, you're out $20 for the filter (this should be it) and the cost of the fluid.
https://www.amazon.com/Flowmaster-71416-FlowFX-Muffler-Stainless/dp/B07J31MNLJ
Bought 4 2in to 2.5 in adapters Cut the old mufflers off and welded it all together Everything lined up just about perfectly
Best part is they don’t sound obnoxious just the right level of loud
iMounTEK 2-Pieces Universal 110cm/43-inch Car Roof Rack Cross Bar w/Anti-Theft Lock Adjustable Window Frame for Bike Kayak Cargo Luggage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RHH1QF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NNFKR455V4HF91GWV49A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Had to be cut and custom fit though
No have custom fit cross bars. iMounTEK 2-Pieces Universal 110cm/43-inch Car Roof Rack Cross Bar w/Anti-Theft Lock Adjustable Window Frame for Bike Kayak Cargo Luggage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RHH1QF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NNFKR455V4HF91GWV49A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Will have to cut off 4 inches on each bar and renotch the channel but after that it's a perfect fit
iMounTEK 2-Pieces Universal 110cm/43-inch Car Roof Rack Cross Bar w/Anti-Theft Lock Adjustable Window Frame for Bike Kayak Cargo Luggage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RHH1QF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NNFKR455V4HF91GWV49A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
iMounTEK 2-Pieces Universal 110cm/43-inch Car Roof Rack Cross Bar w/Anti-Theft Lock Adjustable Window Frame for Bike Kayak Cargo Luggage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092RHH1QF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NNFKR455V4HF91GWV49A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bars had to be cut down 4 inches to fit. Removed rivets, cut down crossbars. Renotched so locking mechanism went back on and put in new rivets.
An automotive stethoscope really is an invaluable, cheap tool that everyone who works on their cars should have. In this case, I'd put money on you being able to find your problem within 2 minutes with it.
This kit below includes a longer "needle" shaped piece, as well as a cupped piece. The "needle" adapter here would be used in this situation. You would touch it to areas nearest to the pulleys (that are non-moving). When it gets to the pulley making the noise, you'll be able to hear it as the noise will be very loud.
The other cupped piece is for finding air leaks. I use it for small engine repairs in conjunction with leakdown tests. You could use it on cars to find exhaust leaks or even vacuum leaks.
Lisle 52750 Stethoscope Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DLMOO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1DT0N1HRC2CDJ0KT5NB7
That code has nothing to do with an evap or gas cap leak, and everything to do with the purge solenoid and associated wiring. Though Duralast caps are crap; order an OEM one for $17 from https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FC1067-Fuel-Tank-Filler/dp/B001FK10OY/ or $14+S&H from Rockauto.
What brand valve did you use, and did you go new or used? Also try ohming out the new valve, it might be bad. Ohm out the old one too.
For the fluid/filter change: https://youtu.be/ATRwt32FkSY
For the trans pan with a built in drain plug making drain & fills easier: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-265-813-Transmission-Drain-Plug/dp/B00NF1PT8O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=KXQ39ZHPD5IK&keywords=4r70w+transmission+pan&qid=1651502856&sprefix=4r70%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-5
I have this one and it's really great, durable, easy to clean, fits awesome, and is very comfortable.
RAMPAGE PRODUCTS 31515 Denim Black Deluxe Locking Center Console for 1976-1983 Jeep CJ5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V9FWSA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_X1H98PXJP4XF1EQWTWNB
I don't have the keypad. I have the most basic GS they offered, without any options. I haven't gotten to the point where I can test the fob as the programming mode isn't working on my mgm, no lock cycle whatsoever. But it's one of those red ones. It was the cheapest one available. It looks similar to OEM with 4 buttons.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ8GHG3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ZS6CDAQ8JKD3B19TR3S
This is what I used for my ex FHP CVPI and added phobs, turned on auto lock, took off dark mode and a couple other things. Took a bit to get working but there are lots of tutorials on the subject. If I remember correctly, if the key trick doesn’t work then your car lacks some module and has to be done through a programmer. It’s been almost 2 years so my memory is fogged. Hope it helps
Yes, you can order a kit with the camera of the same type found in the following link. This could be painted to match, say you want to mount it to the fender or the trunk.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08314S4DJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GXM6MN19JDFWA1TRWT5T
JOINLGO 4-CH GPS WiFi 1080P AHD Mobile Vehicle Car DVR MDVR Video Recorder Kit Remote Live View on PC Phone with IP69 Night Vision 2.0MP Rear Side View Car Camera for Truck Bus RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X5G5GL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_43FFWYH48585V6YZSE2B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not usually a fan of aftermarket mats of most sorts, but these Armor All mats were unusually good:
Armor All 78843
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D46B2JY
Might look around for a better price - I got mine for around 30 USD at Ross ("dress for less" has a nice homewares and 'stuff' section)
Hey man, I live in a wooded area out in the middle of nowhere. We have no street lights or anything, and the OEM bulbs were terrible in my 2010 MGM - it was definitely a safety hazard. I saw a YouTube video and the guy recommended these from Amazon. I switched to them and they’re great. BEAMTECH H13 LED Bulb, S1 Series 8000LM 50W Quiet No Fan CSP Chips Conversion Kit Fanless Cool White All In One Plug N Play Halogen Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHCQ8KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1HX27T7CP7XFME76M2GF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Are you a child sized adult? I couldn't dream of getting my big ass under there. I just use some ramps for oil changes. Here's some for $50 and they are invaluable to have
RhinoGear 11912ABMI RhinoRamps MAX Vehicle Ramp - Pair (16,000lb. GVW Capacity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117EESNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZVJZ29RK87KNQCA4Z63R
You might want to try something like this bench seat center console.
Otherwise I think with those cars you can pull the bench seat and put in newer single seats. Then you would not only be able to adjust your own seat, you would have a center console. Or at least a place for one.
I think I got these about 3 years ago... They were one of the cheapest I could find at the time. I'm sure there are better ones by now. Amazon
I was pissed of and still kinda am because the dims were bright and the brights were dim, they got something reversed. I wrote them twice and they didnt bother to answer. I'm used to it now but it still bugs me.
Amazon has them as well. Currently for 116$. Yeah Advance and O’Reily bank on having them available in-store and therefore jack the prices up. Heard about TRW but never used them so can’t comment on that.
As of right now? I do not. Working with several suppliers/manufacturers to have specific type of bulbs made. They are gonna be very high quality, long-lasting, bright (but not blinding) and expensive. Alongside new wiring and everything. However that’s a long process. So for now here is the link for ones I currently use.
Not a worry. Just wasn’t ready for it. 😃 But I’m here if anything is needed.
Glad to hear Pepsi is taking care of you and you are financially safe. Can’t ask for much more than that lately. Hope they will hire some extra help so it won’t be that strenuous for you.
Getting a CV in good shape is harder and harder. If yours doesn’t have any issues with frame rust or major damage from an accident, I would keep it and made it better overtime. Paint is a good step but don’t cheap out on it. Find someone local who will take time and effort to make it pop. Will cost little extra but that goes a long way. With adding that Cruise Control, it’s also very easy but requires some more hardware and software. Since you need to program/code the PCM and ForScan doesn’t support that yet. So this handy tool and Subscription for Ford IDS are gonna be required. You can also buy the original IDS programmer but they tend to run in high hundreds of dollars so I personally wouldn’t bother for one-time use. Then there is the question of getting a steering wheel with Cruise Control buttons. Luckily you have options here. You can search your local junkyards (LKQ, Pick-and-Pull, etc), get one through eBay (used, usually in good condition), or, amazingly, buy one from Ford directly. They still keep them for 2005+ models in stock. They ain’t cheap (400-600$) but it’s an option. So Cruise Control is very much doable as well. With other things you’ve mentioned, it’s mostly about personal preference. But whatever you decide to do, let me know. Always happy to help.
I do appreciate that you took your time to write it out like that. You value my time and I value yours.
Can you elaborate on this. I programmed my vic with this This remote but once I tried to program the 2nd remote the first remote didn't work.
There are aftermarket systems which can be triggered by an OEM signal. For example, this Directed Electronics unit which is triggered by hitting lock (on OEM Fob) three times. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHQ1YQE/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_glt_fabc_GX6YZMNK9NP8083RF3JW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Alternatively, most aftermarket systems are combination Remote Start/RKE, thus all functionality is maintained using the Aftermarket fob, the OEM fob no longer needs to be carried.
Get the Ford racing pi intake manifold it has a metal coolant crossover I got mine from summit racing also get the pi intake manifold gaskets from felpro and rtv for coolant, some flex head ratcheting wrenches, as well get dorman number 626-202 for the heater tube and get this
Ford Tube ASY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O08GWU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CWFAZT2J54NM4RHZ5MHT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
it is the nipple to swap out so the heater tube will fit. you might already have this installed already but if you don't you will need to install it. Besides a new thermostat get a new coolant temperature sensor for preventive maintenance, if you break your radiator drain get dorman number 61127 also a spill proof funnel is nice. I did this job last February haven't had any issues since besides a starter and ignition coils which were unrelated.
The absolute BEST product for seats is super clean , dilute it 30% super the rest hot water.
Superclean 101723 1gal. Super Clean Degreaser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J05YTU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E3P024FQ3FVX0Z079XB1
I use this extractor
Bissell SpotClean Pro Portable Carpet Cleaner, Deep, Black/Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0986VT2PP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FVM3ZEW0CMGWSX5BQ37C?psc=1
The combo of these two can take pretty much anything out of seats/carpet. You wouldn’t imagine the carpet I’ve made look brand new.
Trust me I know the feeling. I have to hunt shit like this down. I try and post alot of small things I had a hard time finding for the next guy. I used antiseize on the face of the rotor and red lock tight on the oem studs to the spacers.
1.5 inch Hubcentric 5x4.5 Wheel Spacers (70.5mm Bore, 1/2x20 Studs) Compatible with Ford Mustang Edge Crown Victoria Ranger Explorer, Lincoln Town Car Mark 7 - Black 5x114.3 Adapters, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY0K8VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7V2T2R66MXB3DEM7STVM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(This)[https://www.walthers.com/ford-r-crown-victoria-police-interceptor-unmarked-unit-black-no-lights?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Smart+Shopping+Campaign+%231+-+April+2020+Start&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=7533534066&hsa_cam...] might be close to what you're looking for if you want a 2nd gen Vic. Otherwise Greenlight makes an (aero vic)[Washington D.C. Unmarked Agent 1993 Ford Crown Victoria, The X-Files - Greenlight 44910E/48 - 1/64 Scale Diecast Model Toy Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098KPH3Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_02XPD0VMTS5DZBX9NE9A].
Order this if you don't already have it, while youtube is a big help, having the book to also guide you is a lot more helpful. Shows all the torque specs and what order to torque things down in. Get a good quality torque wrench, and a good ratchet set if you don't already have the equipment. I recommend Williams for ratchets sockets I prefer the made in USA equipment, but they do have made in Taiwan equipment if you wish to go a little cheaper, it is a subsidiary of Snap-On very good quality with a lifetime warranty.
CRC sells a liquid penetrating grease in a spray can. It's not cheap but does miracles on things like that.
CRC Heavy Duty Clear Penetrating Grease, 13 Wt Oz, 03056 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYEE0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZFWV8DM0RJJHJQSZQ12F
I still have my strobers lodged onto the top of the radiator bracket because the screws they used completely seized up. Don't do it OP, once it's on there it never comes off :( Or something, they're CURSED! But anyways, https://www.amazon.com/Headlights-Headlamps-Passenger-Replacements-1998-2011/dp/B008G27QL0/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=crown+victoria+headlight+housing&qid=1629936227&sr=8-8 this one appears to have the little hole for the strobing LED
Copied from one of my other posts
I bought a set of auxito led headlights for my 03 mgm off of Amazon. They were plug and play into the stock headlight housings and seem to be relatively well built. The drivers are integrated into the lights and are protected by the headlight housing as they are sealed in by the light, gasket, and cap
AUXITO 9007 LED Headlight Bulbs, 12000LM Per Set 6500K Xenon White Wireless HB5 High Low Beam Headlight Hi/Lo, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYQMT3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QHFZ386R9VPDN6W2WTWH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use THIS flip key. Mine is a 4 button uses original Ford remote, there is a flaw though you need to trim out the key shroud to make room for this key
I recently put THIS Front End Kit on my ‘01 Town Car and I’ve been pretty happy with it. The only negative is the bolt holes for the shock absorber on the lower control arm need to be tapped. Even if you can’t get it in Europe, you should be able to get an idea of everything to order other than the wheel bearings.
If you’re doing it yourself, you’ll need a ball joint/tie rod separator (also known as a pickle fork) and a spring compressor, along with a method to keep the spring compressed…like a bunch of giant zip ties, BUT BE CAREFUL…when installing the lower arms. You will also likely need a rivet gun, as the only way I could get the lower ball joint off easily was to remove the brake dust shield, which is riveted on.
Good luck, take your time, and be very careful when messing with the springs.
I swapped my factory single exhaust with the H pipe and 2nd tail pipe from a P71 and had these mufflers installed. Great sound for the price, and the car is still great on road trips. Already did 2 800 mile trips and had 0 noise issues in the cabin. If anything, they're quieter than I would want but having owned loud cars before it gets old fast.
These mufflers were a couple inches short, but you can easily buy a 6" tube piece and add length. I don't remember the exact length, but its not long.
Nice little extra noise, but handles long drives without any cabin annoyance. The cold start noise alone is worth it imo.
And yes, afaik your LX will have 2" piping. My 00" LX did.
​
Also on your oil question, I would just go to your local parts store and buy a spare drain plug. I found a kit cheap at my local vatozone that came with 4 or 5 different crush washers. Personally I would use a copper or aluminum washer without any silicone.
If you don't want to deal with wiring you can buy this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07WTPLQ1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_43B8A7BX70SFC20Z5P7Y
I bought that for my Vic it's pretty solid, just pressing one button you can turn off the power to your dashcam
They actually don’t haha, they’re actually for a Jeep but the have the same lug pattern and stud size/thread pitch. They basically fit perfect beside u have to trim about an 1/8” or so off the end of the stud but you won’t be cutting any threads off it. It’s just the non threaded tip of the stud. Their part number WHS002. I got mine on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Spidertrax-S2PWHS002-Wheel-Spacer-Kit/dp/B00BGRDJLI. But there are a bunch of places to buy them.
Get yourself an eraser wheel for a cordless drill like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VFACQRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_C64HP38ZH2Y9EXR1E91Q
This one comes with the arbor you need for the drill, then you can get just a replacement wheel for under 10 bucks when that one is worn out, but they can remove quite a bit before they need replacing. There are videos on YouTube if you want to see it in action
I got the exhaust exactly on either side, didn’t really unscrew anything due to the rust. This glasspack fit perfectly with my 2” pipes, the glasspack inlet and outlet are just a smidge bigger than the pipe so it fit snug. just had to clamp them down. Here’s a link to the muffler. It’s a little louder than stock but leaves a nice deep tone for you. Took me 20 minutes to install. Thrush 24202 Exhaust Muffler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIR3UA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CDD3JPTE74Z6BEYDSY10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They make these things for plumbing that are like a snake with a hand on the end (RAM-PRO 22” Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool, Retractable Claw Retriever Stick, Snake & Cable Aid, Use to Grab Trash & a Drain Auger to Unclog Hair from Drains, Sink, Toilet & Clean Dryer Vents https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZM4KXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WHRCTMK81PVZBP7X4742?psc=1) this should work if not do the screw thing like everyone else is saying
These are what I run in mine - while people seem to have durability issues with Armorall's partly carpeted mats, their full rubber mats seem to do quite well (managed to snap a set at Ross Dress for Less for $20, but $30 still seems fairly reasonable):
https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-78843-3-Piece-Coverage/dp/B01D46B2JY
They're "trim to fit" but due to the big open footwells of the Vic, I didn't bother... by now they've taken their proper shape. They also have a 4 piece set if you don't want a rubber sheet covering your driveshaft tunnel in the rear.
Do you mind expanding on what you mean? I installed these into the car and it didn't come with anything extra, just plugged it in and screwed them in.
Hmm, I looked into resistors last night and it definitely seems like it might be fucking with the LCM. Would a plug and play resistor like these work if I installed it in? Tried looking at the forums and couldn't find anything related to LED headlights affecting blinkers. I did order some halogen upgrades anyways just in case I feel the need to swap back to halogen to fix my blinker. Problem only exists when headlights are running; when they're off, my blinker is just fine.
EZ flares are a flexible fender flare that i plan on using once i get to that point, they have 2" and 1" i linked the 2" stuff you will need two "rolls" to do a vic, at least that's what i measured
But you can’t.
Even your attempt in the first paragraph failed because you were unable to write a sentence, even when you were trying hard to do so.
Start here, my friend:
The Elements of Style, Fourth Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/020530902X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_1K7VFbYGM4J2V
Thanks! Went relatively well. Best advice is to cut a bit extra and push it into the cracks as well as you can. Also remove the moldings at the bottom. Just a little nut on the door and you can remove them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YLFPLUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_MWfSFbM71PYAC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I also bought an install kit and gloves.
So I was looking into this too, and found this kit on Amazon for 30 bucks. It says it adds remote lock/unlock functionality to all 4 doors. This would not include remote ignition, but that's not a huge priority for me.
I have no idea how this works, so if anyone has installed something like this please let us know what you think.
Just did the first trans fluid change in my 2000 LX , I used Motorcraft Mercon V from Amazon for $5.80ish a quart. Per bubbasmith950, I would buy it from rockauto.com going forward. I actually bought some suspension parts from rockauto for the Vic not realizing they also sell Mercon V.
You'll need to drop the pan to change the fluid, but even dropping the pan only drains about 4.5-5qts. I dropped my pan, swapped the fluid filter, then replaced the pan with this one that has a drain plug for future convenience. The total capacity is something like 12 quarts, so after I did the initial drain and fill of the 4.5ish quarts, I drove it around as usual for about 2 weeks, then did another drain and fill (which brings me to about 70% new fluid). The preferred method involves draining the torque converter or running the car and draining from a trans cooler line, so your call there.
I plan on doing another drain and fill sometime in the next month or two, but for now it shifts very smooth.
I accidently overfilled it slightly (evidence being the tiny bubbles on the dipstick) but I have a small fluid pump in the garage that I plan on using to pull some of the extra fluid from the dipstick tube.
They are the AKKON Crown Vic black headlight housings on Amazon.
Thank you. I nabbed it via Amazon: CustoMonsterDesigns Tactical American Flag License Plate (Regular Carbon Fiber Blk Stars Edition on Black)
There are a lot of variations on this page and in general when looking... I'm happy with the quality of it and the buy once, cry once mantra applies.
yeah, clean, then treat with lexol or mink oil (lexol is easier to work with)
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015-Leather-Conditioner-6-Pack/dp/B001C4CHL8/
I can't find a smaller qty on amazon, but this stuff is good, conveniently its sold everywhere.
They are most likely 3\4 inch holes for antennas. You can find hole plugs on Amazon or if you have a ham radio shop nearby your location, they would sell them there too. Just double check the size of the holes to make sure they are indeed 3/4 inch before you buy plugs.
here is an example of a plug: https://www.amazon.com/Tram-NMO-Rubber-Hole-Plug/dp/B00IDTJ36C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3KZAMOXGOJCRC&keywords=nmo+hole+plug&qid=1565530213&s=gateway&sprefix=nmo+hole%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3
I actually left the light bar cause the brackets were bent in a way that would make it difficult to take off, plus it was really cheap anyway. It was this light bar and wiring harness. I think I bought it on ebay for $30.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTIYXLU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used these fobs fyi, neither have lost their programming. Had them for about a year now.
Bluetooth FM transmitter would be the easiest way. I used this one until I put a better stereo in the car. Worked well, but the sound quality is what you would expect.
are you good with computers?
essentially, you buy an OBD2->USB or OBD2->WIFI tool that can read the individual modules in the car, like this - https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-Adapter-Compatible-Diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ - and you connect your car to a PC software called Forscan, and modify a couple things in the data in the modules.
if you fuck up you might break the car and then need to revert to the original settings. so if you aren't really good with computers, it's not for you.
Something like this plugs into it and you can tow a trailer. I pull a two-dirtbike trailer behind my '08 CVPI. These things tow great up to at least 2k lb.
Your fan motor controller is shot. Fairly common. Mounts on the fan housing, 2 plugs and a big heat sink. The PWM internally craps out.
https://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Cooling-Victoria-6W1Z-8B658-AC-940002904/dp/B015SIHIDU
ATOTO A6 double din head unit on Amazon. I've had it for 3 months and the only complaint is the lack of a volume knob.
Can get them on Amazon for less.
Drivers Front and Passenger Rear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C16XUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y9LhFb9BWKXDX
Passenger Front and Drivers Rear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIXMKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_68LhFb0Q5GVQT
They will fit and I've seen them on Panthers but not sure about rubbing issues. If it does just have to roll the fenders and quarters. I picked up a roller for my miata from Amazon and it worked great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8XU03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JbNBFVdWSH4jI
Here is the kit I used, Amazon says it doesn't fit my vehicle but on my 2008 P71 it was the perfect fit.
Thanks, its a 20 inch flood and spot beam combo light bar by Nilight. 30$ on Amazon with wiring harness, I live far out in the country and use it on back roads at night to see deer and other animals. I wired them into a 3 way switch so they turn on when I use my high beams, or I can disable them from turning on with my high beams if I need.
[Light bar]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQGQTXQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
They are LED with amber lighting as well. Bought them off of amazon for $25. Super bright and the amber lights aren’t super bright and annoying either.
MICTUNING MIC-LLB-193 Pods Unlimited-GO K1 2Pcs 4 Inch 18W Off Road Flood LED Bar 1620lm with Amber Marker Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FN4F4SP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yETaEbMERSCEQ
Best of luck! I'm not sure about '06s, but mine required these adapters. Ford used some kind of plug for the factory speakers, and I needed that in order to avoid cutting the door harness.