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Just a note: you can now replace just the amplifier board inside the FICM. Dorman 904-229 is available from Amazon for $110. It takes about 15 minutes with torx drivers to swap out.
- Remove small cover plate on back of FICM.
- Remove 4 power transfer screws under that cover.
- Remove screws on the front side of the FICM.
- Remove the front cover of the FICM
- Remove the two black shock pads
- Dig the glue out from inside the screws holding the amplifier board in.
- Remove screws holding in amplifier board.
- Install new amplifier board.
- Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VCBDG4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
This is a good brand that's made well and doesn't leak. It locks closed too so there's no way for it to rattle itself open.
I've been getting my oil from Walmart, but I guess tractor supply sells it for cheaper so I'll be going there next time!
Need more info. If it is injector related, I would start with adding 1/2 a bottle of Hot Shot's to your next 2 tanks of fuel. Then start running XPD Opti-Lube every time you fill up.
I had an injector lock open while getting on it on an on ramp 5 months ago. Afterwards I had smoke at start up, so I had the balance rates tested. 1 injector was on the bottom end of where they like to see it and replacement is recommended. My mechanic is the one who said to run half a bottle of Hot Shots. I had 155,000 miles on my injectors anyway, so it wasn't like it was going to hurt anything.
After the first tank of Hot Shots the smoke was already clearing up. You'll hear and see the difference after starting the XPD as well. Your diesel clatter won't be as loud and a bit of an improvement in mpg. Since starting this on my truck, I haven't seen any smoke and the injector is still performing as it should.
Amazon my dude, they're not true perfect fit, you have to trim some tabs, and the blinkers are white, but I really like em. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQPQFZB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_M76NGTEFQ5SJ42TK05HG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Buuuuuulllllllshit.
Valvoline premium blue extreme retails for over $25/gallon, Rotella T6 under $20/gallon.
https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-Synthetic-1-Gallon-Single-Pack/dp/B01LH7L0KS/
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-774038-Gallon-Premium-Synthetic/dp/B000GAP446/
Amazon FTW. It took me about 10 seconds to find this.
Fleetguard LF16035 Oil Filter for Dodge Ram Cummins Engines Diesel (2 Packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ8WRW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-LvQCbKPZW38M
That’s a great price for two filters and you get Prime shipping.
Admittedly I have had to buy a couple to find the exact ones, but its usually more of a hit than a miss. The ones that didn't work I re-gifted to friends to use in their own cars.
This one SHOULD work for you. Its Amazon ( i feel differently about it than you though, I buy everything via Prime from them now...everything). The return policy is pretty good-ish. But it should read everything you want.
This stuff works great if you use it with a high pressure hose or ideally a pressure washer. By the way, I dig the hood stack 🤘🏻
https://www.amazon.com/Gunk-EBGEL-Ounce-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B002FYFD74
Boost auto parts has a good reputation for GM mirrors, so I’d feel comfortable about buying their ford mirrors. https://www.boostautoparts.com/collections/ford-tow-mirrors/products/2003-2007-superduty-tow-mirrors not sure about plug and play, all else fails just buy the 99-07 mirrors again. For headlights I love the look of the Harley Davidson edition https://www.amazon.com/ACANII-1999-2004-Excursion-Conversion-Headlights/dp/B07FNVLBWQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ford+harley+davidson+headlights&qid=1599260977&sr=8-3
I can almost guarantee its the waste gate solenoid. Stupid easy to replace.
Had this exact same issue you're describing with my truck. If you need any more info, let me know
Penray Total Fuel System Cleaner
This is what I used to solve my asphaltine issue. My fuel filters plugged while going down the road, so I changed them and doped the fuel, haven't had an issue since then.
Do your windows all work at the control switch in your driver door? I’d be happy to share the videos I found helpful that show you which wires to look at and which to test and where, etc.
The rear door locks were notorious for water intrusion and thus would seize up. This dole lock will work for both rear doors in your truck, you just have to transfer the actuator rod from your current actuator, none of those included in the kit will work. You have to drill the Rivet out in your door to access the door lock mechanism and it’s a speciality rivet so I used a nut and bolt to replace it.
All of these were actually really simple jobs, and I’m so pumped about mine being finished I’ll gladly help if you need more input.
Ah I see. The 80amp is just the maximum current the relay can be used for. It's a stantard relay used for a lot of things. Even at 50amps that is 600W, like I said I'm not familiar with FSS's but I dont understand how they would need that much power just to shut off fuel. If you can link those forum posts I could see what they are talking about.
Oh and you also need a relay base like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ehdis-Truck-Normally-Socket-Automotive/dp/B01KHRQAYA
One like this should get you into the suspension module.. https://smile.amazon.com/Autel-Diaglink-Systems-Diagnostic-Transmission/dp/B07QS9VH8V/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?crid=2C3VASS25BMPW&keywords=autel+scan+tool&qid=1668961043&sprefix=autel+scan+tool%2Caps%2C485&sr=8-18-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aam...
That I know of, all diesels in North America come from the factory with a block heater due to our winters here getting cold enough (northern 2/3s of the US) to cause issues with starting for diesels that have more than 1 glow plug burned out.
Here's a link to what one looks like: https://www.amazon.com/Powerstroke-Diesel-Block-Heater-Excursion/dp/B00PMK9KZE
Most of ours are 110v, but you can get them in 220v also.
if you are asking how to get fuel from the tank we install fuel pickup tubes just for the heater in the semi trucks like this one Standpipe Webasto Heaters fuel pickup tube. They come with a drill temple to drill the top of the tank then you cut it to length and install.
If it's just one town theres probably some people who won't stop calling about the mullet-master down the that street keeps razzing them as he goes by their house because the neighbor in the opposite direction called about him beating his girlfriend in the middle of the street.
Or some other inane nonsense. That's usually the case when the local deputies pick up a pet peeve.
Technically a muffler, but it mostly just damps down cabin noise, treat yourself and continue annoying the bored cops.
Install it and keep riding through the same town, let them waste their time. Be sure to accelerate slightly as you pass them.
Commercial towing? Try using a commercial oil.
It's a toss-up for me between this and the pennzoil ultra plat, but if I was hauling and putting 50k a year on a truck I'd definitely be using this exclusively.
Seems to be a ignition problem, maybe?? I use a battery disconnect switch for older vehicles that have ghosts in electronics. https://www.amazon.com/WATERWICH-Wireless-Disconnect-Electromagnetic-Agricultural/dp/B07WRFYH7L
I don't have an answer for you, but I can say that I keep a code scanner in my truck usually for other people, but it is great for the two times I have needed it as well. Outside of that, a much cheaper and actually way better option, is to buy a cable and hook it up to your laptop and use forscan for almost anything you would want to change about the software of the truck. Plus it has a scanner. For $30 bucks and a spare laptop, you are good to do just about anything.
​
It's rated for 3000rpm rather than the 3600rpm that gas jobs are normally at. I checked with a tach, and the nominal working speed does seem slower. I thought it might be an issue, so I got an H-bushing and some larger pulleys in addition to the small pulley that is common. Turns out the small pulley is just fine. I haven't measured it, but you this is the size. These come up first if you search "20mm pulley" on ebay/amazon. I didn't see any noticeable different. It ran a bit slower, but more torque, so the rate I was loading the bales didn't change.
VIMILOLO Bike Pump Portable, Ball Pump Inflator Bicycle Floor Pump with high Pressure Buffer Easiest use with Both Presta and Schrader Bicycle Pump Valves-160Psi Max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LXYYTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5D8G8EDG54TGQCNJA5SD
An Ender 3 is currently 190 bucks on Amazon. That is the cheapest good 3D printer available. Also, it's probably about half the price of your engines fan shroud, if you can even find one which is surely priced like unobtainium.
So, you print out a fan shroud with maybe 25 bucks worth of filament at most, and then you have a 3D printer to make firear... I mean, miniatures, for dungeons and dragons.
Cant post a link for whatever reason on the other comment, but theres one on amazon for way cheaper too. I dont know which one is better/more accurate but you can always just throw a random turbo on it if you know how to hook up the oil lines and shit
https://www.amazon.com/Kinugawa-Repair-Rebuild-TOYOTA-2KD-FTV/dp/B07JQFC6CG
Yes! I got this one, seem to be the same thing, no? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDGPSHB
I have no problem testing each one, it might be too much for some, but gives me peace of mind and might save my truck too.
Get this:
DEF Refractometer for Measuring Diesel Exhaust Fluid Concentration of Diesel Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLDZBS8/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_Y878E4FV6FN9WMQEWJG3
Test every jug before you put it in and never and I mean never get it from the “bulk pump” at a truck stop!
I run the cheaper stuff and test it first. I have yet to find a bad bottle. All my problems came from truckstop DEF.
You need one of these -Bafx Products - For Android Only... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Download torque pro app to an android phone and you can diagnose things much easier. If you already have an android phone it will cost you less than 30 bucks for everything.
Sounds like it most likely could be cam sensor or your high pressure oil is not building enough to stay running - could be due to stuck IPR, torn injector o ring, etc. if you download torque pro you can check HPOP pressure. If I were you I would buy a cam sensor regardless and swap it (ford or international only- aftermarket will cause engine to stall with windshield wipers on…) Amazon has them real reasonable, and if the cam sensor isn’t your problem then you have your old sensor for your glovebox spare.
I've got similar ones. There's a bracket that you can buy off the shelf to adapt to the factory fog mounting holes. Rigid makes it, and there's a clone on Amazon for cheaper too link.
Then you just need to pick some pod lights. I'm sure you're aware of the big names. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. But if you're on a budget, I've had good luck with LED Colight and OZUSA.
Got them off Amazon E-Z WRAPS - 3 How Dare You Stickers Greta Thunberg Funny Vinyl 3" x3 " for Laptop Water Bottle Phone Auto Decal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P93NPFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_168YVHVKFSJHJT31X3XD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those will do. They were out of new ones when I needed them so I bought the Bosh factory remains. I got these lines and they fit just fine https://lincolndieselspecialties.com/i-23849569-brand-new-aftermarket-lb7-high-pressure-fuel-line-set-2001-2004.html
I also got this to fill the gap between the line and nut to keep crap out and rust down. Eezox Premium Synthetic Gun Care https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y33SALQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NS2V4QEJD1GTD3MY6FH8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Enjoy spending the $$$
It's just the air lift, dual needle setup. I flipped the gauge and switches over in the pod for mounting to the floor.
I just went though this on my 2013 F350, was having the same problem. Push the button and it would hit just fine then after a second just soak my hood down and make a mess. I learned with my wife’s SUV the parts store replacement nozzles are junk. I ordered the motorcraft kit off Amazon for like $35 that has the lines and nozzles. Took a total of 2 minutes to swap out everything and low and behold everything works as it should now no fluid on the hood.
reilfastprts Windshield Washer Jets Hose - BC3Z-17603-A BC3Z-17K605-B Super Duty 2011-2016 F250 F350 F450 install both washer nozzle and washer hose Manguera de chorros de limpiaparabrisas boquilla https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085QNPXR7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4012BYMYCABHNEKGDJT5
+1 on this.
Where the quality is going to vary is in the dies themselves, and if they’re suitable for what you’re crimping. Some of them years gone by sounded like they were awful but the ones I got were more than fine for my use. They’re in metric MCM sizes though and not AWG so you’ll have to do a quick search and find out the conversion.
This is the one I used. I did several 2/0, 1/0, 10ga, and even 4/0 with it. Nothing more than minor issues at most.
That's a kenetic rope, much different than a tow strap. A bit on the higher end compared to bubba rope or ASR.
kenetic rope: hook up and floor it. The rope stretches like a rubber band and yanks. Much smoother and easier on both vehicles.
tow strap: hook up, pull slack out and go. Problem is if tow vehicle doesn't have good enough traction, it'll spin out and not pull.
For vehicle recovery kenetic rope>tow strap.
For towing a vehicle tow strap>kenetic rope.
Different tools for different jobs.
I could afford it right now but my time is more valuable. It looks like a bunch of different builders do purple transmissions so who knows. The body isn't perfect but it's pretty good. He said I spent more time looking at it than anyone else so I'm not the only one that thinks it looks like trouble.
Here's the listing: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216522519542202/
If I didn't have any projects and my shop was done I probably would've bought it. But I've got a newborn baby, a 6 yr old off school for CV19, just started a new job, need to build an addition, need to build a shop, I'm buying a track loader, the list goes on and on.
What started all this was looking into what I'd need to pull a 10,000lb track loader. I need a big truck with a lower curb weight to be under 26k CDL.
Dodge 4500 is what's up and generally cheaper than newer 3500s. I'm leaning towards maybe buying a nice ambulance package one for around 15k and removing the rear box.
You're very high in my opinion, especially considering the rust.
I just did a marketplace search and vehicles like yours are going for around 7-9k, non-rusted.
Here are some examples:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2529036927308534/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2517976765133949/
I'd sell up north, or sell for less than market is asking...but if time is no object, and money isn't tight...sit on it... you never know.
1000 watts is 8.3 amps. I use a simple timer that has a time it turns on and a time it turns off. Set it to turn on 3 hours before I leave.
I had a hard time finding rotella, and ran Valvoline Premium blue as a holdover for one interval, oil analysis showed pretty equal to the rotella, although I only ran them 6k miles. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000GAP43W/ref=twister_B09KCC21M4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I actually use a grill cover by Fia instead of cardboard. It works really well.
They're vehicle specific.
I am green to diesels and my prejudice to Fords has kept me ignorant to the particulars of the brand. I have heard through the grapevine that the 7.3s are supposed to be tougher than woodpecker lips. Is there anything imparticual I should be looking out for. Any and all information you have to contribute would be welcome. Link and info below. Ford F-450 SUPER DUTY. Standard transmission, 7.3 turbo charged diesel. Flat bed with auxiliary fuel tank. Under bed tool boxes. New tires, new seat, cold air conditioning. Only 115,600 miles.
You've got an engine that takes 12 quarts of quality synthetic oil instead of 6 or 7. The oil filter is about double the cost as well. $200-300 dealership oil changes are not unusual.
Every 15k miles / 1 year you need to change the frame mounted fuel filter and water separator. Had to have this done by a shop a couple times when I was working up north and it was around $300. The 2 filters alone are almost $175 MSRP, but you can get them for $120-140 online, or this set at $175 including the oil filter is pretty solid.
DEF everyone complains about but for me it wasn't bad, a $20 box every 6000km (3700mi) on average.
Then you've got the regular consumables, like tires and brakes which you go through faster in the heavier truck, and of course they're more expensive on the 2500 than on the 1500, regardless of engine choice.
Here’s a 2011 for 22k with 137K on it.
First listing that popped up on FB market. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/392097374934517/
By the time you’re done with it you would be able to sell and get more back. Nobody’s going to buy 6.0 landscaping/plow truck.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/398708227550709/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1543700542543428?view=permalink&id=2101254823454661
Both for sale near me. I’m not a fan of ferds but I’d take either of these at 3-4K over that 6.5 even with double the mileage.
Here is a 4hp diesel motor for $229 at Amazon with 2-week delivery. I think they might be less popular in the U.S because the US has a lot lot of guys and gals that have no idea how a motor functions. So many lack even basic engine know how I just can't imagine that working out if a manufacturer released a mower with a diesel. Hell people have a hard time mixing gas for 2-strokes.
Don't mean to talk bad about people that don't know about engines, maybe they are really good at sewing right.
Call the stealership and see if your engine uses these tablets in the coolant and how many you need. As far as I know, nearly all GMs since the Northstar use them. They are to seal small gaps in the heads and block. I have seen many engines torn down when they just need these tabs.
Genuine GM (12378255) Fluid 3634621 Cooling System Seal Tablet - 4 Grams, (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QIH3C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A8SKAEF5JY22JQAJYFT6
Here ya go bro AmeriLite for 2005-2007 Ford F250 F350 F450 Superduty Xtreme LED Halo Rim Chrome Projector Headlight Pair - Passenger and Driver Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KD42LGN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B1Q4WWGS4CGSRKG20AP8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
From what I read is clogged radiator is kinda common. I still look toward getting a gallon of degreaser and spraying it down with a lot then raise and repeat. I couldn’t fully get it clean so I bought a CoolingSky Radiators Replacement for 2001-2005 Chevy GMC Silverado 2500 3500 HD 6.6 Duramax, 4 Rows All Aluminum Radiator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098DLWVZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6X7ZE93CJRBS7ZC8RPRK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 They have one for a 7.3 for CoolingSky 3 Row All Aluminum Radiator for 1995 1996 1997 Ford F350 F250 F59 7.3 V8 Diesel Powerstroke Engine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089JZHFQR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BR6BVF11WJYTVW1WZ282 but the Mishimoto is half the price ($379) for it than what it is for my LB7.
HSS has a range of products including anti gel but I've not used it. I've only used the following, one is for fuel and one is for the oil. My truck is an HEUI injection system and this has made the injectors operate much better, period, but especially in cold temps... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00545OUYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_4WZP6RDC6F7HFM26AFER to my knowledge these are not really anti- gel products. I've stuck with Power Service products for anti-gel because it works and is more cost effective.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/90/Geo_Tracker_LSi_convertible.jpg
Something like this but white, like those paper cups haha
There is also a oil temperature sensor that activates the glow plugs. Mine went bad this year and the only way to tell is to swap in a good one and see if the truck starts up. I grabbed mine from a junkyard here is a Amazon link I think is the same sensor
Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Replaces for Ford 7.3L Powerstroke F-250 F-350 F-450 1994-2003 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JMSLH91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AND58W5ZATQQRJDQ3XDF
Happy to help. I recommend being sure anything you plug in has a fuse, just to be double safe.
That and a couple Male Banana Jacks - and you can wire up anything 12v to ez plug n play to your dash for power.
Cheers!
The nut is technically not a nut, it's part of the compressor wheel. But it's got internal threads ans a hex head.
Anyway, there's a factory machined mark on one side of the end of the shaft. You can see it on this new compressor wheel. I believe this is done to balance the compressor wheel when it's manufactured.
I assume that's the chunk you're referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Wheel-Powerstroke-GT3782VA-Charger/dp/B01DG2C6DW
I got these for my 04. You can find similar ones for cheaper but the extra 40-50 bucks is worth it because I have heard the cheaper ones shake and rattle. I love these mirrors and they only shake when the bass hits (but so does everything else)
yessir also I think they make a color matched option instead of the chrome, those look cool too depending on what truck color you have.
get a new cap immediately, best choice for the 6.0s is standt, this one. Buy two, keep one in the glove box (they are dirt cheap). Also may want to look into getting that coolant flushed and replaced just in case, make sure to get coolant that is CAT EC-1 rated.
PS: does anyone know why his coolant dried with color? I have never seen coolant puke marks that are not white, no matter what color coolant used.
Edit: forgot to mention, dont replace that cap while the truck is hot. That shit is pressurized and will spray all over, creating a mess and possibly injury if you open it when its hot. Give it a good 2 hours to cool down after running, and open the cap super slow. Treat it like a bottle of pop that was shaken up, listen for the hissing to make sure you let that pressure out slowly.
The whole recall kit is available on Amazon. If the fuse blows, you're supposed to replace that whole jumper harness rather than just put a new fuse in. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW6350-Brake-Repair-Kit/dp/B000IYLZDO
Does it ever get down to -10F where you are? If not id be using a 10w30 Rotella T5 and a 15w40 when you know it wont get under 10F. The T6 is more designed for diesels with DEF Systems like 2010+ trucks.
Also possibly get a cheap borescope off of amazon and use that to check the tank if you dont want to drop it. This is the one I used (It has a light on the end) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4
Here's one you can add to most any vehicle. I've spliced into the heater core lines on my old diesel. You'd be surprised just how much junk is in your coolant and how clear it will look after using it for a while. I can see clear to the bottom of my radiator and its crystal clear.
Adapter https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-24019-Filter-Mounting/dp/B000CSINYU
Filter https://www.amazon.com/Baldwin-B5134-Coolant-without-Chemicals/dp/B0015RC3X4
I just replaced the sending unit sensors in my ‘89 f250 diesel. Reading high past full and/or telling lies on the high side about how much fuel you have left is a classic sign that the potentiometers in there are worn out.
Pro tip is that ford used way too many different sending units on the diesel truck line (something like 20 before 2003) and finding the right one can be a horror show. Considerably less variability in the sensors themselves, and swapping them is easy if you can solder. THIS IS THE RIGHT ONE FOR MY TRUCK BUT NOT YOUR TRUCK, BUT IT’S A START: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TFBN8W1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best of luck!
I used a box of this on my the back, doors, and roof on mine. Plus when I replaced the carpet I did double the insulation. Not perfect but pretty dang good. You can talk at or under 60mph now. New exhaust will probably help out some more for mine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751CBXBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Something like the Provent 200? Can you point to any good source for install procedures? What is the problem it is meant to solve? Forgive my ignorance!
https://www.amazon.com/Kats-16800-Lower-Radiator-Heater/dp/B00F8KTD0U
this is probably to large for your lower radiator hose, but you might be able to find something similar. this keeps my trucks block hot to the touch as though its just been running.
I'm more on the testing and calibration side of things.
If you don't already have it, a must-have for any gearhead (gas or diesel) is Heywood's Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals. It's considered 'the Bible' for most IC engineers. Some examples are a little dated, but the fundamental concepts are very well compiled and laid out.
For actual engine design, Vehicular Engine Design by Hoag is great, though pricey. It has everything from bearing sizing to firing order to crank design/balance.
I got this book. It's detailed, but not too specific to each engine, which I like.
I changed the oil and oil filter every 5k... Fuel filters at 10k. Oil and oil filter were both Motorcraft from Walmart... Fuel Filters also Motorcraft from RockAuto or Amazon (they both go back and forth on who's cheaper). I also added Ford's Diesel Fuel Additive to every tank. I think it was 3-4oz per tank... They have it on Amazon, but my local Ford Dealer was about $2 cheaper per bottle.
Genuine Ford Fluid PM-22-A ULSD Compliant Cetane Booster and Performance Improver - 20 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUAFH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b4F5zb90ZKGFK
The anti-drainback valve is different from the filter (I think it's called a guide stalk) stem. This is the little black button that sits about 2 o'clock (ish) from the stalk in the bottom of the housing. The part I'm wanting to change is this https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Anti-Drainback-Diesel-3C3Z6800A/dp/B00TKO1XG2 it looks like it simply pulls up out of the base but wanted to know if anyone had done it before I tried it. Thanks
I replaced my ICP about a year ago, and not long after it blew and leaked out most of the oil before I could get it home. Apparently I had used a cheap knockoff part from Autozone, so I ordered the Ford part from Amazon (same as above), and haven't had a problem since.
If you're not leaking a lot of oil you might not see a trouble code. Recently had a leak at the oil cooler head and lost about 1.5 gallons of oil, never saw a code.
Recommendation though, if you don't know the last time your Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR) was changed you might want to look into that, apparently you should replace those every couple years.
I ordered this one - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5HLDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and haven't had a problem with it, although in retrospect I should probably have gotten a Ford/Motorcraft part. (Don't buy the Lisle 68210 socket with it that Amazon recommends, it's too big)
My bus was driving me crazy for about a year, seemed really under-powered. Had a couple different mechanics take a look at it and they basically shrugged and said it seemed fine. Finally I got a low-fuel-injector-pressure trouble code and changed the regulator out and it immediately made a huge difference.
Warning though, when you replace it you introduce air into the system, and your engine will sound like total crap for about an hour until the air works itself out.
You recommend any online retailers? I'm looking at AC DELCO on Amazon but it looks like it needs flashed and flashing it looks like a $100 trip to the dealership. Is it easier to find a flashed one on Ebay for a higher price?
I had this issue, and ultimately I went with OEM ones from Amazon, at like $70 shipped. I put nice headlight bulbs in it, and it works great and looks great. Here are the ones I bought, I have a 1999 ram.
I wanted the cool ones with the halos, but I decided functional was more important than appearance.
Driver and Passenger Headlights Headlamps with Corner Lamp Replacement for Dodge Pickup Truck 55076749AD 55076748AD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008G3KCHE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_V91lybAR1DRG6
The bulbs are some Philips 60% more than standard light output bulbs, they were in a reddish package I got at pep boys for $40.
My buddy went for aftermarket and they look like shit and don't produce nearly enough light. I'd buy these again if I had to, they are that good.
I also installed them myself and it was really easy, and I'm not experienced in stuff like that. Good luck!
When its "clattering", put a stethoscope on the high pressure fuel pump. The cam inside can rattle if the bearings are failing.
amazon $95 (they are even cheaper now http://www.amazon.com/Light-Combo-Off-Road-Truck-Pick-up/dp/B00NAQUJ34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452257311&sr=8-1&keywords=50%22+led+bar)
It has lasted 2 years and has worked flawlessly. No moisture and looks identical to the ones a few buddies have that cost 6x as much. I originally bought it as a joke cause people hated them so much, but for that price and the light it puts out I can't beat it!
Just because you replaced brakes doesn't mean they won't make noise. New brakes can often make noise. I put extreme heat grease on the back of the pads, around the pistons, and on the sliding bolts (don't know proper name). But it really helps with the noise.
Not saying it's definitely the problem, but don't be quick to eliminate it from the options.
Edit this is what I use. I highly recommend it.
After you sort out the batteries, get one of these solar maintainers. You could also opt for the 5 watt version.
This is what I have and use. It could be cheaper than having someone else do it. Some places don't allow battery exchanges if they test well and aren't the issue; you'd have to ask your specific store.