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ah, I see a difference. in the vid he's using this

https://www.amazon.ca/TWTADE-Resistance-Regulator-Authorized-potentiometer/dp/B079BB7VK5

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which uses resistance to control the output, the inkibrd SSR I got requires applied voltage... coulda hooked up a 9volt!! guess I'll get the pid added.

Those elements are great. I use a dernord one that's similar.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT8WRCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_DSXSRYFD3S3NDH7KSR9D

The ezboil is awesome. And for mashing or heating up water, it's perfect out of the box. I had to tweak the hell out of the inkbird pid I was using for mashing and it still bounced around a couple of degrees. The ezboil hits the temp and it stays put.

That’s just for the hot plate lol. Other Glass - $375

I had to get the 2000mL Boiling Flask separately.

That's just copper (II) oxide, pretty normal. Copper has two oxidation states, the black Copper(II) oxide that you have, and Copper(I) oxide, which is reddish in color. Neither are a big deal, but Copper (II) oxide tends to chelate, aka flake off, and wind up in your product. Essentially what you want to do is remove the copper (II) oxide layer and allow a copper (I) oxide layer to form, because it's much more stable.

If you want to remove it, get yourself a new toilet brush like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L1N8QGK) and some barkeepers friend. Put the barkeepers friend in a bowl with some water, enough to make a loose paste like oatmeal or grits, get your brush covered in the paste, and then scrub away. Give it a good coating, let the paste dry, then scrub it off with water and a clean brush. It'll remove the oxide, no problem.

Also understand that some patina is normal and fine. If you keep up with cleaning after every run, it likely won't get to this point. If you live someplace humid, get yourself some of those silica desiccant bags and store your column in a trashbag, which will keep this from happening on it's own.

Also, those little desiccant bags can be re-charged in the oven by holding them for an hour or two at 250F, which just cooks off the water.

These things are great my brother uses a similar model

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_908yFbHWW3A8X

Try this one out: Distillamax TQ Haven't used it yet as I'm in a single malt 'phase' right now, but plan on trying it next up.

https://www.amazon.ca/VEVOR-Industrial-Thermolysis-Recirculating-Engraving/dp/B09CSYPP7G/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=2Q57G4VSWBVV7&keywords=water+cooler+for+laser+engraving&qid=1669962620&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjcxIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAi...

sulfuric is better than citric, and 1940's arroyo patents outline the use of sulfuric acid to both shock the pH and provide the catalyst... you want to drop the mash pH by about 0.5. You can get fairly dilute from pool supply store or you can order from amazon, but this is STRONG, I suggest using a stirplate with water to add the acid to water to dilute... pouring into molasses will cook and harden bits of the molasses on contact... https://www.amazon.com/Sulfuric-Acid-Solution-1-0M-500mL/dp/B07JBNJL3L

I used a vigreux column like this

https://www.amazon.com/stonylab-Distillation-Borosilicate-Fractional-Indentations/dp/B08R8RJK1P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=33IB81C6JC68E&keywords=fractional+column&qid=1661959404&sprefix=fractional+colomn%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-5

This isn't me.

I used a vigreux column like this

https://www.amazon.com/stonylab-Distillation-Borosilicate-Fractional-Indentations/dp/B08R8RJK1P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=33IB81C6JC68E&keywords=fractional+column&qid=1661959404&sprefix=fractional+colomn%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-5

I've found something on Amazon that is 99% ethyl and 1% butanol.. Idk how to get rid of those 1% as their boiling temp are the same https://www.amazon.fr/nettoyant-d%C3%A9graissage-d%C3%A9coloration-profondeur-lindustrie/dp/B086QP236X/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1C4VFISF8Q7QW&keywords=99%25+ethanol&qid=1654773696&sprefix=99%25+ehtanol%2Caps%2C392&sr=8-5

I think that I'm just going to go with sugar and yeast fermentation then distillate it from a water bottle and some kind of pipe to begin with

I love the metal ones, they do not flex when hot and allow the wires inside to move when the outside cord is moved... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BX8HHQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

"Gland" and "cord grip" are what I"ve always called them. Something like this seems the right size:

https://www.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWare-Strain-Relief-Glands/dp/B08MYPBJ93/

Stainless doesnt hold on to a lot of skanky smells so there's that. If you want to give it a good clean order some Five Star PBW and you'll be good to go.

1. Find a TIG welder and weld a tri-clamp into the lid. Or you can get a tri-clamp flange adapter and screw it to the lid (don't forget to use some silicone gasket). This way, you will be able to turn your boiler into a modular still.
2. Yes, the lid must be airtight AND firmly held in place (use silicone gasket and a bunch of clamps). If you're ever going to run a reflux column, you may get some measurable pressure in the pot (about 15-20 mm Hg). If your pot leaks vapor, you will end up with very substantial losses.

Nope. There's a thermometer in the middle of the vapor chamber with a release valve on the top and bottom. The instructions literally say, "Methanol discharge (close 10 minutes after alcohol distilling)" about the top one.

Here's the Amazon listing:

VEVOR 30L 7.9Gal Water Alcohol Distiller 304 Stainless Steel Alcohol Still Wine Making Boiler Home Kit with Thermometer for Whiskey Brandy Essential, Sliver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C7C111/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_K503X0G22R82GHDHMYNR?psc=1

And here's the video where George actually talks about it.

https://youtu.be/-f6ysXSf4GE

Not trying to argue with you about it, just want to learn as much as possible.

there isn't much difference in consumer grade electric burners. 1500w was the highest powered one I could find a couple years ago when I was using a 2.5 gallon boiler. it took about 1 hr to heat it up. at 5 gallons you probably want to consider other heating methods. You can use 1500w band heater, the difference is you can use 2 at same time depending on the shape of your boiler.

this hot plate served me well, if thats your only option

https://www.amazon.com/CUSIMAX-Electric-Adjustable-Temperature-Stainless/dp/B07D71TD67

2 of these would be better for 5 gallons https://www.amazon.com/Grape-and-Granary-Heating-Watts/dp/B073SGWZJG

Ya i would buy it again. I'm not at all disappointed with it. One thing i wish it had was a dial for power level.

Also if you dont have 240v power i would look into a step up for it to get its full power.

And to make your life easier when dealing with water pressure changes i use

Still Spirits Water Flow Regulator

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JL9PS5X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0M38J85GTC19RCM31PKE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

As for the all grain mash i am baby stepping finding my footing. Using easy to make hard to screw up recipes. The whiskey using DME although i have not tried it, the smell of it is good.

Im hoping in maybe 2 or 3 more runs ill be ready to try a real whiskey all grain mash.

The recipe i use for rum is from milehidistilling https://milehidistilling.com/how-to-make-rum/

Basically i use 4kg of black strap molases, 2kg of cane sugar. And some water. For the longest time used rum turbo yeast but switched to redstar yeast and amalayze to let it ferment longer and maybe fet more of the sugar converted

3/4" silicone washer and 1/2" silicone washer both for high temps.
Most likely the 1/2" one is what you would use but measure the inside diameter...

Hope this helps...

For any of you still here, thank you for all your responses! I wanted to ask is this one absolute garbage or would it be an ok first purchase?

https://www.amazon.com/Alembic-whiskey-moonshine-essential-Copperholic/dp/B0797TJ5MZ/ref=pd_ybh_a_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VZ4SFA608BN6EF5K1GC6

It's the one I was originally considering before bothering to ask but he told me yesterday that he loves the way hammered copper looks (lol) and is does fit my budget requirements and isn't super ugly. I just don't know if it would be trash or not. Thoughts?

I have one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Speedfit-ASVPP1LF-8-Inch-4-Inch-Adapter/dp/B003YKF2JC) under my sink and my condenser just uses push connect fittings. Works well and I just need to barely crack the water open, so it ultimately isn't a ton of water.

I ran it through this setup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C7C111/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RJ56CEMDQ6FYXNQY223W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Vevor 30L rig. I need to look into refluxing because I have never done it I guess. Edit- not sending vapors back into the pot-

I ended up on this guy

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HRVGSHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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should have it tomorrow for my 2nd run!

so,, I have a 2" stack on my still, meaning this guy

https://www.amazon.ca/Twidec-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple-MT-2258PA-1/dp/B07QM3W7XJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

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won't fit, as it's 50mm, slightly bigger... any suggestions?

180 Quart... 45 gallon.

https://www.amazon.com/Concord-Quart-Stainless-Steel-Cookware/dp/B018F4CZU0

Throw on a 4 or 6" column and you are set to go.

I use one of these for my fermentation vessel. I poked a hole in the lid to feed a blowoff tube into. For mashing, My electric keg still has a drain spout on the bottom so I set the kettle up on my work bench, fill it with water, heat it up to about 200 and open the drain valve into the fermenter thats wrapped in blankets with my corn meal and give it a real good stir with a steel power drill driven paint mixer, Once it drops to mash temp on its own, I add the malt and stir again, let it come down to pitch temp on its own aerate (just running a dedicated drill driven paint mixer for about 60 seconds works wonders) and add the yeast and seal. The process could probably be optimized with a dedicated mashing vessel, but it works out well enough for my AG whiskey.

The Alaskan bootleggers bible has a very simple crockpot design that works well. And has some safety built in as far as over pressure. It kinda makes a mess but for really short runs in limited space it definitely works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0967452406/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QfD-FbNT3RAZN

Mine is the same way. This is what you use to provide power to the air still: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MLE01A/

It can either provide full power or adjust the power to the heating element when flipped to VAR. Having the top of your air still connected to an outlet directly with second power cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BYGKZW/) will maintain optimal cooling.

Second your thoughts and good list. In the spirit of what you said I can recommend George Fix's "Principles of Brewing Science", which is available in Kindle format too. Link

Was swayed from the quoted comments into buying this one. It's kinda basic but has some interesting info. Translation is kinda wonky too. Definitely focused on very small batch (which I wasn't looking for) and mostly fruit based washes. That last was the main reason I bought it, as I wanted to learn more about the theory of schnapps making. Short too, at 150 pages. Nicely printed and bound.

I used this one, with a cut/stripped extension cord, a quick box i made as a housing, and an old receptacle. I'm in Canada, but it was $36 for the regulator.

> https://www.reddit.com/r/Distilling/comments/gbnitc/some_facts_about_methanol_from_rfirewater/

Sounds like a UTI bro. If your doctor doesn't think it's real, go to a different doctor. In the meantime, drink 8oz of cranberry juice at least twice a day, stay away from sugar, drink plenty of water. If you have amazon, pick up some D-Mannose powder and take 2 grams of it, twice a day, and usually that alone will take care of it.

Outside of a UTI, you might have just slept on your dick weird. That's happened to me because I sleep on my belly sometimes and trying to do a cock pushup in your sleep can sometimes cause some damage.

I’d say amazon or eBay for glass kits. In my lab I use a simple boiling flask with a small joint that offers some reflux and goes straight to a Liebig condenser. Kinda like this: lab still That’s probably the most basic unit I’d recommend, the more reflux capacity the better. A simple alcohol burner will work, but a heating mantle is best.

Only if you want it to all burn. Just run to any Asian market and get a butane stove for $25. Or get one on amazon for $20. Much safer.

Coleman Portable Butane Stove with Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGPXVSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rlQ9DbNWRX23M

You're many kinds of wrong there. Molasses is almost 100% fermentable on its own. You don't need to add any kind of white sugar to it. You don't need to cook molasses either for distilling. Just add a frothing, active yeast starter, preferably from a yeast tailored for the task like this one

I recommend the OP to get some reading from a reputable info source like the Home Distillers Forum (http://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/Main_Page), as this place is not good for this kind of research.

https://www.amazon.com/Still-Spirits-Turbo-Air/dp/B00BWUJKHG this is cheaper option what is your opinion on it, one day I will get a $500+ one but right now I am starting so I can't justify spending $500 on something I am just figuring out.