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I have always been of a fan of This fog light to go with the Anzo headlights.
Use a Dremel with something like This to cut the plastic.
Hole saw would work as well.
Sometimes even if the truck didn't come with fog lights from the factory, the wiring for them is still there but capped off. If not, then you may need to wire them up yourself.
I did a small air horn in mine; it's in front of the battery barely, but I'm planning on removing the driver's fender, and putting it inside the fender right behind the headlight, horn facing down.
It was one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TXT42LW/
RwP
No.
Headlight switch controls the relay; the relay controls the lights.
For a 97, you're either 9004 or 9007 (I bet 9007, but don't know) headlights.
I like the Putco 100W harness - https://smile.amazon.com/Putco-239007HW-Premium-Headlight-Harness/dp/B001MA3H3E/ for an Amazon link, but there's other vendors for it.
You connect a red wire to the positive battery line, a black wire to the chassis or the negative battery wire, it's got a plug that plugs into the driver's side headlight plug, and then a plug that plugs into the driver's side headlight itself. A run goes to the passenger side, and you plug that into that side headlight (after unplugging the body harness plug).
The relay in the harness now handles the current for the bulbs, not the headlight switch and its wiring.
It's what all the intelligent designers do; Mopar and GM, OTOH, are not always that intelligent. (Nor Ford for that matter. And several other companies I'm sure.)
RwP
About every 2-3 years.
One way to do it is to pick up a pneumatic bleeder (such as possibly this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DXCSJ1P/ ... which of course also requires an air compressor to operate!) and watch the fluid while bleeding; it'll be brownish for a while, then run clear. Clear is good. Clear is great. Clear makes for great stops. Rusty brown is ... well, it looks like crap and makes your brakes work like crap, so it's crap. grins
RwP
If it's carbureted, it's not the original motor.
The 1994 used multi port fuel injection.
Chrysler, however, farmed the throttle body manufacture out to Holley ...
For 3K?
Find a 1994/1995 Dakota with a 5.2 V8, and swap the power plant out.
Or.
Hunt up a copy of https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Magnum-Engines-Performance/dp/B000NFNSVA . (There's one link to buy it at; but not the only one!)
Read it carefully.
Be aware almost NONE of the Mopar Performance parts are still available.
For engine parts - check out this build thread: https://www.dakotaforumz.com/threads/warning-not-for-the-faint-of-heart-rated-p-g-for-mature-audiences-a-3-9-v6-build-looking-for-20-hp.13297/
But for $3K, I'd opt for a clean used 5.2, 5.2ECU, and rebuild that one. Also, which transmission does he have? If the 42RH, it can be built up a bit stiffer (dig into the 44RH/44RE specs), but I'd also opt for a 46RH instead. (Think "Turbo 300/350 and Turbo 400")
RwP
A Class III hitch will have a 2" receiver. (So will a Class IV or Class V, for that matter.)
A Class I or Class II will be 1.25".
That's a quick tell right there. If a 2" hitch is too big to fit, it's not big enough.
And yah, if you're in the USA, you can get a Curt hitch for under $150 ... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1997,dakota,3.9l+v6,1087703,accessories,trailer+hitch,1212
Or if you're a Prime member, even less - https://smile.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-51025-Custom-Fit-Receiver/dp/B000E283XU/
RwP
Baja Designs FPK Sports W/C Fog Pocket Kit compatible with Dodge Ram 2500/3500 Big Horn 2019-On https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQM7MY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MZVH291BJTEH18889XRR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Step 0 - Pick up a factory service manual; used off eBay, or new from Bishko Books. (Biskho I'd order the disc version). Bishko also resells through places like Summit Racing.
Steo 1 - Check the grounds inside the dash; remove the knee blocker, pull the instrument cluster (don't forget to feed the speedo cable into the greenhouse area from under the hood first!) and loosen/tighten all the grounding screws on the braces inside the dash.
You won't need a new dash; just repair some 30 year old grounds.
And the oxidation can be cured by merely taking apart/putting back together, usually.
Step 2 - Headlights. There aren't any relays for the power connection (yes, there's a high beam relay; it toggles low to high beam, but the current is STILL carried through the headlight switch!) so replace the headlight switch; consider replacing the connector; and after it's up and working, add a relay harness to the front to get that current out of the cab. (Some folks are now reporting the bulkhead fitting failing and oxidating/corroding out due to the current through it for the headlights amongst other things.)
I'm partial to the Putco 100W harness, but that's not the only good one out there. It can be bought straight from Putco, or if you're a Prime member, grab it off Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Putco-239007HW-Premium-Headlight-Harness/dp/B001MA3H3E/ ) It may have to be rewired; I think the 1993 uses 9004 bulbs. If so, there's Youtubes like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkg9iAiqyCw on how to do that.
RwP
hmm maybe this is it, but it might be hard to just buy one headlight. I thought about getting some clears too but it wouldn't pass inspection in my area :(
Mileage is 225,XXX and the headlights I got from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-Auto-Durango-Projector-Headlight/dp/B004W4OK9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=spyder+5009784+dodge+dakota+97-04&qid=1613081632&sr=8-1
That looks like an ac compressor off an 80s jeep
Edit: Idk if its just an aftermarket one i saw on a jeep once but it looks like this to me
Here are the head lights I found. That was just after a quick Google. Not sure what else’s there is available out there.
Orion Motor Tech AC Gauges, 3 Way AC Manifold Gauge Set for Freon Charging, Fits R134A R12 R22 and R502 Refrigerants, with 5FT Hoses Adjustable Couplers and Can Tap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GCBFJ6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4Q583M9EMS350WY5BW41
Holy fuck i actually took out my front middle seat and put this bad boy in. I didn't think anyone else would want to do this.
RAMPAGE PRODUCTS 31511 Locking... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V9AIQQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Podofo Single Din Touchscreen Car Stereo with Apple Carplay and Android Auto, 7 Inch Bluetooth Flip Out Head Unit with Mirror Link for Android/iOS FM Radio USB TF SWC AUX-in + Backup Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GP2RXBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6T8Q7YTRPCXKZ5QC44W8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm seeing some plastic deformation (they're bent) on the oem part. However, I'm going to assume you tried to fit the U Bolt anyway and it didn't fit. I think you're looking for something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-660-120-3-1-Round-U-Bolt/dp/B0033YD7ZK/
Not sure where you live, but the major auto parts stores may have this.
Just buy some “ eagle “ eye leds And use those that’s what I did on my Silverado like these you can get them in any other color
Get yourself one of these, or something like it.
Then download the "Car Scanner" app on your smart phone and you can check your live data, engine temperatures, throttle position, MAP vacuum, etc.
I had an old Plymouth that ran like crap when it was cold if the filter was dirty.
A brush guard with some nice LED lights. I would recommend staying away from spacers. It's word coming from my mechanic when I asked her about them.
Anyways this is the brush guard I have on my 06' SLT just chromed out.
For lights I highly recommend these ones as they have flood and spot when you turn them on along with an amber or dim LED option you can wire to the truck's fog lights.
I have other plans like swapping the 3.7 motor (the og owner requested a 3.7 motor and 4 speed auto which is not standard for the SLT package) with a 4.7, a 5 speed trans, and a 2 inch lift. It's a gift to my Kota for surviving up to 200k when she hopefully hits that.
Maybe a heating pad? You wouldn't be able to let it run all the time or it'd drain your battery, but you could get something like this to act as a deicer/defroster.
Or hope for an early spring...
Mossy Oak High Back Camo Seat Covers, Airbag Compatible, Universial Fit, Fit Most Bucket Seats - Made with Premium Cotton Twill - Official Licensed Product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824HR22X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MR6FVGC58G3J83X2JBVK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Did you try one of these? https://www.amazon.com/QQCherry-Pack-Powerful-Traceless-Removal-Computer/dp/B09K7Q2HZK/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=dent+puller&qid=1637772265&sr=8-6
Or leave it there, chicks dig scars.
I had the exact same issue on my 2005 Dakota. After a shit ton of research, I replaced the Transfer Case Motor Switch Unit and the error went away and everything worked.
It's easy to replace, but REALLY helps if you have a lift. It would be a bit miserable on your back trying to replace
I've got 265/70/16 Wild Countrys on my 97 Dakota. They're big enough to give the vehicle a considerable amount of beef but still keep a subtle profile https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=f40b042f69&view=fimg&th=147c0e2014004f2b&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=1476070241893089280-local0&safe=1&attbid=ANGjdJ-cYaJNKmDvynDHzPnnHSfOkXs1cECjWow_jx7WA-LONVqakfJ34j_...
I don't believe so but I don't remember. That was 15 years ago. I had a repair manual for it too. Chilton's or Haynes manual. Check your local auto parts store for one. Here is a Haynes manual from Amazon:
Dodge Durango (1998 & 1999) & Dakota (1997-1999) Haynes Repair Manual (USA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1563923521/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_fabc_69V09RB8DW14ZPQPSCJ3
It also helped that I had friend who had a bunch of auto mechanic experience at the time to help with it.
I don't believe so but I don't remember. That was 15 years ago. I had a repair manual for it too. Chilton's or Haynes manual. Check your local auto parts store for one. Here is a Haynes manual from Amazon:
Dodge Durango (1998 & 1999) & Dakota (1997-1999) Haynes Repair Manual (USA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1563923521/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_fabc_69V09RB8DW14ZPQPSCJ3
It also helped that I had friend who had a bunch of auto mechanic experience at the time to help with it.
Main bulbs : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XL7LLVS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Turn signals: Sylvania 3157 zevo leds (amber) Markers: Sylvania 194 zero leds
Headlight assemblies:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFDRGCW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The assemblies are pretty cheaply made, but their refraction with the LEDs is amazing. They illuminate brighter than modern vehicles equipped with LEDs IMHO.
As far as headlights, these bulbs are amazing Fahren LED bulbs, these headlight assemblies are cheap but refrack these leds amazingly headlight assemblies . I'll post pics of these on my 99 dak sport in a minute. You should also invest in a heavy duty winch, install/fab up a trailer hitch receiver on the front as well the back. Instead of mounting the winch on the front and not being able to utilize it on the rear, Mount the winch on to something that can plug into you hitch receivers. And if you don't need it, you can put it up until it's needed. You should also think about safety, a rollback (not a headache rack) should be at least the minimum. If you really want to go crazy with the cheese wiz, since your interior is already torn out, put in a X point rollcage inside the cab, with crossbar to mount 4/5 point harnesses. Heavier duty leaf springs, along with coils. Skyjacker shocks and struts are available for these trucks. Performance upgrades/mods: Accel coil pack, think about relocating it from near the serpentine system to in the cab or at least on the firewall. 165 degree thermostat to keep cool in extended slow, strenuous situations. Glasspack the exhaust to allow for better flow. Add a transmission temp guage/ transmission cooler once again for not overheating. Also think about having a spare front driveshaft, IMHO they are weaker than they probably should be.
If you go out on good, 4x4 off road magazine did a writeup on how these dak's are amazing for offroad builds.
BIG suggestion.
Double check to make sure you're using a double flare (my 1988 does; not sure a 2003 does).
If so - get a good double flare tool.
I LOVE my Titan ( https://smile.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ but the O'Reilly's in town has it cheaper) because It Just Works.
See if you can find what size the fittings are; I did new fittings as I replumbed my 1988 with the cupro-nickel lines.
Grab some metal coat hangers; straighten them out; use them to work out what bends where and as a template for the new line.
DO plan on redoing ALL the lines down the frame, and possibly all of them period ...
If you see a coil in the line, do a coil in the new line. There's usually a reason for the coil.
Get a good quality bender, or even a bender and a set of bender pliers (and no, Bender doesn't qualify! He just drinks and smokes ... ) I've got one like https://smile.amazon.com/OEM-TOOLS-25440-Professional-Diameters/dp/B086PL3VSW/ that I use.
Amazon also has the tubing (bought a 50' roll, used up all but about 8' of it on my 1988!) and the armor (that was 16' per set, so ordered three sets ... ) which the armor will require a really good set of wire cutters to trim to length. I put one end on, bent the line, made sure it would fit, then slipped the armor on, cut it just past the line, and collapsed the armor enough to get the other fitting on and the flare tool. This makes it a bit snug, but it works. The armor will keep you from putting the flare nut wrench (I almost forget! Use flare nut wrenches, not regular open ends!) on, if you don't push it back a bit, but it's doable.
RwP
You can buy the towing harness adapter; it plugs into the rear connectors for the taillights as a pass through.
Here's an Amazon link for the Hopkins 42115: https://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-42115-Simple-Vehicle-Wiring/dp/B0002Q7C08/
RwP
It's the nature of the beast.
What you can DO ... is several things to mitigate it.
1) Turn the bass down - which you have done.
2) Turn the VOLUME down.
3) Put something like DynaMat inside the door to help dampen the vibrations. DynaMat, FatMat, and there's other brands.
4) Add a bass blocker to the wiring to the speakers in the doors ... such as these from Skar - https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-SK150HZBB-PR-Frequency-Filters/dp/B08D7F9SPM/r .
With the bass blockers on the door speakers, you can crank the bass back up for the rear speakers.
RwP
When I first got my 02 I commented on how the truck had a happy face, my existentialist 6 year old replied “yeah, but with sad eyes”.
So true.
Anyway I’m considering the Spyder 5009784
It's always scarey the first time - YT has a lot of good brake rebuild vids specifically for these model pickups.
I just installed Power Stop upgrade on my 03 Dakota and I'm happy with the results. The folks a Power Stop are very customer oriented - I had a problem with one of the banjo fittings weeping maybe 1 drop a week and they sent me out two new calipers.
The weeping is a fairly common problem and is handily rectified with O-ringed crush washers like THESE
If you want for now, get a moisture removing agent and stick it in your truck, just so that mold doesn’t get worse, have you checked your windshield seal? That could be a issue also
Here is a link to something I was thinking of for a moisture removing tool: DampRid FG50T Moisture Absorber 4 lb. Hi-Capacity Bucket-for Fresher, Cleaner Air in Large Spaces-2 Pack, 4-Pound, white, 2 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXXLQTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y1XVNE8N57EYFXFZAW7M
This is what I was considering buying until I could afford an actual bed cover. It's the same material as what I have now, but at least it's black and won't stick out like a sore thumb and look ugly... https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Black-11-12-Thick/dp/B01AAWU7SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=6x8+tarp+black&qid=1610072701&sr=8-3
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00337DUEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_y9VSFbDE4CQ0R
It's just a fluid additive you put in the transmission fluid. Basically a lubricant to keep your torque converter moving.
I've been using this one from Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7VYVU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_TVYeAbK3GPHZF for 4 months and haven't had any issues. The only problem during installation was bolting on accessories, some of them use a nut on a clip but some of the others use nuts in a plastic pocket of sorts and they just spun when I tried bolting things up, I got creative with a pair of vice grips to get everything installed.
There is the cold air intake and the regular air fitter. I am talking about the air filter.
I did not want to spend that much for the air intake, so I got the air filter instead. Although it doesnt make as much power as the cold air intake, it does increase performance. It is also not as complicated to install (open air filter box, drop the new one in, close it).
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Im not sure if this exact one fits the truck, but this is what they look like.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MTR7U3V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_78kJFbCHXMYVM
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Awesome, thank you! Would something like this from ebay fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/60x-T5-5050-SMD-LED-Dashboard-Cluster-Gauge-Wedge-Light-Bulbs-58-73-74-6-Colors/372322673989
Edit: or something like this? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072V7JLMV
Or any suggestions would be much appreciated
Where are you getting the pigtail from? I got mine from amazon.The reason I asked this is that everyone was saying replace the blower motor, since it is frying the resister.
The kit I got from Amazon has significantly thicker gauge wires on the pigtail. It was a pain in the ass getting up there to solder it, but I haven't blown a resister in 4 years now, and I still have the same old original blower motor.
Essentially what I suspect happens is the motor starts degrading and is drawing too many amps. The factory pigtail wires are too thin by design, and with the added draw on them they heat up like a mofo and then pop the resister. The thicker wires from Amazon do a much better job at dissipating heat and preventing resister meltdown.
Edit: link, spelling
My 2000 Dakota met a tree... The bumper is caved in a bit and the hood is a little pushed back. The radiator and A/C condenser are just bent a little. I was thinking of just taking off the bottom bumper since its in no shape to do anything and replace it with this. I'd relocate the fogs that exist in the bumper right now into the bull bar. Thoughts?
i believe you have to get the whole light as the chrome was part of the light just like there is black probably put on yours now. but i have found new lights for crazy cheap http://www.amazon.com/LIGHT-Passenger-Dakota-1988-1996-Housing/dp/B002Y2OHYC
if it was me i would just get a new set of lights
I recently bought Nilight aftermarket LED pods and installed them today. They seem to work really well and are very bright! Here's a link to them on amazon: Here you go.
Apparently these may have a water seal issue according to other users, but is easily fixed with some silicone sealant.
You must buy a wiring harness separate though.
I plan on using these as extra driving lights, so I aimed them towards the road.
I have pictures and can answer any questions you may have.
Edit: I went for a long drive down unlit roads last night and they are REALLY bright. I could see at least 500-700 meters down each road and see all the trees in detail. I definitely recommend these lights.
After some time I came across this gem http://www.amazon.com/PAC-AAI-FD4-Auxiliary-Adapter-Lincoln/dp/B00GP4GS0Q/ref=pd_sim_sbs_422_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=01CEDD112C8BJ0GCJ3PS I know it doesn't say dodge, but looks the same. I'm going to try graigs list for a new head.