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And, from my experience, a fairly stiff brush. A new toothbrush will just about do it.
Alternatively, a fibreglass pencil like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft-PBU1019-1-Glass-Pencil/dp/B002Z8IX36/ref=sr_1_4
used GENTLY will shift absolutely anything off a PCB with no collateral damage.
You'd need something akin to this:
to up the 5v USB power to the 12v that the fan requires.
Stop using a heat gun. Use a low temperature bismuth solder like ChipQuik. Add the solder to all the joints at once with an iron and it will mix with the old solder and keep it molten long enough to remove the part without any force.
If there are larger pins going through the board you may need to trim them individually and use regular solder wick to get those out. Again some low temp solder on the joins first will make it easier.
https://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Leaded-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I/
First, I would try power off your phone, removing the SD card and clean the copper contacts on the back with isopropyl alcohol and dry it off and then used compressed air to clean out the memory card slot in your phone and then reinstall the SD card and turn your phone back on to see if it will read it again.
If that doesn't work, you can purchase a USB memory card reader for cheap that will ley you connect it to a PC to try and recover information from the card.
> The problem is that I searched and there is nowhere to connect it to my PC.
If your PC/laptop does not have a built-in card reader slot then you will need to purchase a USB card reader similar to this one.
By the way, if your card was encrypted, you're probably sol.
Buy something like this, for cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-2-Male-Benfei-Audio-Stereo/dp/B07TTLH72H/ref=sr_1_18
Cut the phono (RCA) plugs off, and you're all set to solder it to the headphones.
This looks like an easy fix! Buy a plug like this https://www.amazon.com/Jasco-Products-54268-4306-31W5-Attachment/dp/B000BP7WJ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=Male+Replacement+Electric+Plug&qid=1625214415&sr=8-14 and pull out the cables and screw it together. You can glue the casing to the old one or maybe screw through the casing (making sure no contact is made between the metal in the screws and the plug ofc)
If you do not have the funds for this I can probably help you :)
Digikey has a page for it as well, but no product right now. You can use that to compare datasheet info.
Before you buy anything and just start swapping components it would be a good idea to take a second vacuum (if you have two exactly the same) and remove the offending part from both. Connect the grounds of both boards together with alligator clip wires or whatever and check that the resistance is the same for all three connections (gate, drain, and source). It's not uncommon for something else to have failed first, taking the MOSFET with it.
If you don't have another vacuum, the best you might be able to do is a visual inspection of the board to see if anything else looks damaged.
I ended up ordering this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093CK8XDH
Also realized I was watching some bad YouTube videos about soldering. Learning more about flux now. Thank you for the help. I'll post an update once I try again.
>Now I'm the one who is wowed! I lost a sister to Glioblastoma Multiforme, an absolutely horrific disease. So a donation to the Glioblastoma Foundation is always welcome.
Done - I donated $5, which isn't much, but I appreciate the time you put into helping me and feels better than buying a coffee or reddit gold, in my opinion.
If you're curious as to what happened I'll describe it below.
I got the driver yesterday, soldered / heat shrinked the connectors on and it didn't work. I noticed a faint brief flash of light each time I would turn it on then nothing. I don't know what the problem is, but I opted for a different solution. I'm going to replace the lights with 120v bi-pin halogen retrofit LEDs . I bought appropriate sockets for them and a spool of wire so I can wire them in parallel to the switch. They should be brighter than the originals since the original ones were one COB and these have multiple which should be nice.
Thanks again for your help!
> S0171 does it look like this? it is probably a cap. they are cheap to replace. you may need a soldering iron, flux, and some silver solder.
My guess is that the diode was a DAM3MA82 Transient Voltage Suppression or Electrostatic Discharge Protection Diode.
Here is one that will get you in the ballpark and allow you to continue testing. But is not an exact match. Fortunately it’s a protection device far from the power supply meant to protect the gate pin of the MOSFET. If anything it may clamp too early if there’s still a fault, so buy several just in case. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/CDSOD323-T18S/3781967
I’m almost certain that if there was enough of a fault to cook the gate pin of a MOSFET, the current either came from the FET itself with enough punch to cook more than that diode.
Get yourself a cheap parts tester and start hunting down anything else in-line or nearby.
A tester like this will help test parts out of circuit or otherwise isolated. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081K4CM1F doesn’t have to be this exact one. But this type has proven quite handy.
Example of what senormonje is talking about, in case OP didn't understand: https://smile.amazon.com/Moukey-Stereo-Amplifier-Speakers-Computers/dp/B0868LMPNP/ Note that I'm not recommending this exact model, it's just one of the first that came up in my search for examples.
It depends on what kind of motor and other circuitry you have in your random orbital sander. But there are speed controllers for power tools (example of one here) that you can buy.
But you might be able to just buy a cheap buffer that is less than the speed controller.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Diagnose-Everything-Electronic-Second/dp/0071848290/
YouTube: bigclivedotcom, Learn Electronics Repair, DiodeGoneWild, TronicsFix, Adamant IT, Sorin Electronics, Electronics Repair School
You’re very welcome.
I’d highly recommend this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002EAT3W/
It comes with documentation that teaches you basic electronics as you build. Showing you how to test each section and how it works. When you are done you get an awesome prototyping breadboard with signal generator, logic indicators and multiple power supplies. Basically an electronics lab in a briefcase.
They sell a version already assembled but don’t go that route. Building it is fun. I’ve built several of them in my years and still have my first one on my bench at home. Yes, this kit is very old. That’s how awesome it is.
Combine that with some assorted resistor/capacitor parts kits and some solid core 23awg wire and you’d be all set to build everything in the Forest Mims books. You will have to buy some semiconductors and such but that all depends on which direction you go in life.
I started out with the 74xx series chips from TI. You could literally build a computer with them. It would be the size of a mini fridge and slower than snot but still damn cool. Ben Eater cool.
All of the telescoping antennas I found articulate at the base where it attaches tot he radio. (example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPQLW4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
This puts the articulation point within the radio itself, rather than at the end of the metal 'sleeve' / segment within the radio. Essentially the antenna fully retracts into the body of the radio, and when you extend it it pulls an articulating section up to the top of the radio so you can pivot the antenna.
Is there a term for an antenna like this?
(sorry if this is a double reply - for some reason my earlier reply didn't seem to go through).
No, or it would likely be expensive to just produce one.
Or try Sigrun
They sometimes use it to make phone covers
you are working on a switching power supply. The easiest fix, instead of troubleshooting a switching power supply with no experience, would be to get an appropriate 12v 3.5A power supply (Should be cheap) and hard wire that in. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TKDY-Compatible-Security-Replacement-Connectors/dp/B08F7KQBH8
If you can't clean the existing battery terminals, then you can buy replacement ones.
Also I can see some discoloration on the red wire from the + side of the battery pack, that usually means the corrosion has traveled up the wire inside the insulation. You likely will need to replace both the red and blue wires from the battery pack to that small board that is on top of it in your 3rd picture.
You can get direct fit or ballast bypass LED tubes to replace fluorescents tubes. These are T8s. You could try this product.
Damp cloth to get the bulk of the contaminant off.
If it's dried and crusty, use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Scratch-Brush-Pen-applications/dp/B07S3RCTGZ/
Flooding the board with something like iso-propyl alcohol kinda works, but I find water and a cloth (and toothbrush to get into tricky areas) to be the quickest way to get the stuff off.
With a load or speaker connected to the output you should see a higher voltage signal on one of the pins of the transistors. They appear to be in a push pull configuration so one will be PNP and the other NPN.
Without a schematic I may be incorrect but basically the orientation will be voltage rail to NPN to PNP to ground or negative rail. The output can be tapped off where the two transistors connect. That’s where you should see a larger signal than what’s going into the bases of the transistors. You should be able to identify the base of a power amp transistor by the use of a huge bias transistors. If the problem is the transistors you should see signal at the base/bias resistors but no where past that in the circuit. If you only see the upper half of the wave then the PNP is bad. If you only see the lower half then the NPN is bad. Be sure to set your scope to DC coupling and ground it to a good ground plane like the chassis. A pin or trace clearly marked as ground is preferred.
Since you have a known good channel you should be able to remove the transistors and test them with any means you have. A multimeter with diode mode will work great but I prefer those cheap parts testers on Amazon for quick tests.
One like this: https://www.amazon.com/Transistor-Capacitance-Multifunction-Automatic-Calibration/dp/B07XYWKB77/
Does it have to be t10? Would t8/t12 work? Are there any ratings I need to look for? Will this work? This is the first time I've had any issues.
I was thinking about something like this. I'm just wanting it for testing items before posting on ebay. I wouldn't give a customer an adjustable one. I would just need to look for a supply like this one for example?
I have a very similar setup to what you are wanting. I purchased a set of tips like that, and a 5.5x2.1mm barrel jack extension cable. I cut the cable, stripped the bare ends on the half with a male connector, and put banana jacks on them. I plug the banana jacks into the sockets on my lab bench power supply, and plug whatever needed tip into the other end. Set the proper voltage and away I go! I also have a female cigarette lighter socket I can plug into the supply, if I need to run something intended for a car.
Looks like you can buy the cable with bare ends now: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supply-Repair-Security-Camera/dp/B09SQCY6BC/
Since it sounds like this will be more of a permanent test setup, you could possibly skip the banana jacks and stick the bare wires directly in the power supply's binding posts.
There are a number of bench supplies out there at different price points. You don't need a huge amount of precision for what you're doing, but don't cheap out too much either.
A10 is the board Q877 is the component. In the parts list it should give you the part number. If the part number is a Tek part number W140 has a pdf that translates Tek to more modern numbering scheme or equivalent part number you can plug into mouser/digikey.
I’ll need to read up on the autofocus circuit for that model. But a transistor should not crater itself without taking a few other things with it. It may also not be the root cause.
Grab yourself a part tester off Amazon and start checking transistors. Like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091356Q9T
I agree with the other comment that the book is awesome but no need to make a video just for the sake of clicks.
TLDR, here the book
I’m sorry, when those control chips go out they typically take out the !mosfet and everything else in between.
Replacement supplies can usually be sourced for cheap. This should get you back up and running while you troubleshoot the old one. If you get it working then you have new knowledge and a working backup.
I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Scratch-Brush-Pen-applications/dp/B07S3RCTGZ/
for removing questionable substances from PCBs.
Anything that remains, that you can't get to, try isopropyl alcohol first. If that doesn't work (and it won't if the contaminant is water based), a Q-tip with a drop of water on it. Allow the board to dry completely before powering it.
That specific touch lamp chip on board may be hard to find but generic touch lamp modules are very easy to source. If you are willing to completely replace all the circuitry it’s relatively easy to install a generic touch module to any incandescent lamp. Especially if the body of the lamp is already made of metal and meant to be a touch lamp.
This one is a dimmer type but others made for two way bulbs are also available. https://www.amazon.com/sensor-dimmer-control-replacement-150Watt/dp/B07QF1B9GR/
A api can be easily powered from the 40pin header. It’s not recommended because it bypasses the input power protection circuits but with a good power supply it can be done. You just have to be VERY careful to NEVER wire it backwards.
I suggest using a 5v supply like a small MeanWell. Connect it directly to the 5v and GND on the 40pin header.
This one is dim tail mounted but consequently very small and relatively cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-HDR-15-5-Power-Supply-Ultra/dp/B0779VXWRQ/
Although there are lots of videos readily available online showing you how to remove broken 3.5mm jack from all sorts of devices, if all fails, you can always get something like this which should hopefully help you out:
https://www.amazon.com/GripStick-Headphone-Plug-Extraction-Tool/dp/B01M19LY2F/
I couldn't find one either, not all exist in public.
Unless somebody has that board and is willing to measure we're going to have to guess. Either we match one of the neighbors, or just make a wild guess. In reality this is likely a power rail in which case the exact value won't be very critical.
If you're interested in repairing more electronics then I recommend getting one of those "transistor testers" that are available on Amazon for around $20 US. They test all sorts of components including capacitors.
It would help if you had a 12V 1A power supply with screw terminals or bare wires for the mains connection. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-RS-15-12-Supply-Single/dp/B005T6TIGM/
Be extremely careful splicing mains voltage. Consider purchasing a ferrule or spade crimper kit to make working with stranded wires safer.
If you do not know the difference between hot and neutral and which goes where please do not mess around with mains voltage.
Also DO NOT bypass any of the safety features of that heater. Doing so puts lives at risk. When in doubt, stop and ask!
Can you bypass the PWM controller? Most PWM fans will hesitate then kick into high gear when a PWM signal is missing. You may need a Molex to fan adapter. Like this one or similar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099DZY2VF/
https://www.amazon.com/CESS-023-6i-Speaker-Banana-Adapter-Receiver/dp/B07SQB7BD3/
You can use cables like these to connect the speakers or you could just cut the rca plug and connect the wires directly.
I cant tell if your current battery is straight through soldered or spot welded with tabs to the board. If soldered, I'd use my small electronics snippers to clip the leads on either end near the board. This would keep the battery pack from absorbing the heat when removing what's left of the leads from the board. If it has tabs that are spot welded at the base of the board it's a little more tricky. Soldering nickel tabs together can be very tricky, especially when a lot of mechanical vibration stress is put on it, such as would be on a motorcycle GPS that vibrates constantly when riding. If it is spot welded and you don't have a spot welder then you could make solder work. You would want to make sure that the battery pack is firmly glued to the board to prevent vibrations from breaking the solder connections, which brings me to part two - the glue.
I would probably get both ends of the battery disconnected from the board and then make a slit longwise down the old battery and remove the battery cells from the board. I'd get everything prepared and decided about how it's going to be attached. I'd then clean the inside "husk" of the old battery pack and the outside of the new battery pack with a little bit of IPA, then throw some sort of flexible adhesive inside the husk and put the new battery inside it and solder it up while it was wet. This method would help the battery pack stay vibration proof without risking damage to the board by heating/scraping out the old adhesive.
Maybe someone can come up with a better plan, but this is what I would do. You have to keep in mind that the motorcycle will be vibrating a lot and you would HATE for the battery to get knocked loose, so pay particular attention to the solder joints and getting it adhered to the board.
The listing is for a 1000w, a 2000w, a 3000w or a 5000w version.
When you go to the link, they've pre-selected the 3000w variant.
The 3000w would be fine, but is more costly than the 2000w one, which would be sufficient for powering your CP301.
A functionally equivalent mains lead:
https://www.amazon.se/-/en/dp/B07Y1T5V48/
as an addition would still cost you considerably less than buying the 3000w version.
But either would work.
that's a nice tv. i would give it a try. i would lay it flat, and use this stuff on the crack
​
My mistake then. I thought by the shape of the case that it had a diaphragm of some sort for a button. Must be for the barometric sensor.
Ah well. If you change temperature and pressure enough times moisture ingress is largely inevitable.
I’m surprised the board is not conformally coated. If they masked off the contacts for what I assume is a speaker and the barometric sensor they could have shot it with a quick coating of anything. Those barometric sensors are typically sold with a sticker that needs to be removed for that very purpose.
I’ll be honest with you. Judging by the design and the price point along with the application, I’m guessing this was intended to be somewhat disposable after so many steps. Perhaps a year of use, two tops.
I do like the idea of a lightweight independent data logger. But by the looks of it, I’d say they either missed the mark or intended it to fail at some point.
Also, if it’s USB powered you might want to grab a USB tester. With everything else in our lives that is USB I’d recommend having one on hand anyway. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X3HST7V/
Look around, sometimes you can find them cheaper. There’s better but I like that one because it’s USB-C and older. Many others need adapters.
Check if your device is drawing current, which it should do when charging. The current draw will vary but if it’s always 0 then you know it’s dead.
Matsushita metalized polyester film capacitor, not sure the rating, I can’t find any info on that series. Someone else may have better luck. I’m guessing 684uF @ 630VDC.
The pins are still visible, you may be able to get a tester on it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K38XP8G/
can't you buy an old analog tv on ebay for $10 and not worry about it any more?
the other possibility is to buy an external tv monitor, and plug it into the antenna input.
I missed your last message. The type of crimping tool you linked to is only meant for large diameter single crimp ferrules and connector. For multi-pin connectors that use crimp pins, you need something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K498R84/ which has many precise sizes for crimping both the conductor and insulation parts of each pin.
Thank you, that helps. Yes, I agree a simple solder and splice should suffice. These assorted kits are surprisingly handy and cheap. Especially if you don't know the exact gauge you need. https://www.amazon.com/Wirefy-Clear-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B089D6L839/
The link I provided is for clear tubing but there are multi color kits available.
One piece of advise is when you get the splice soldered you can trim it round with a pair of flush cut side cutters. It's typically safe to trim any bulk or excess solder not necessary for the joint. You can even smash the sharp edges with a pair of pliers to eliminate any sharp edges and bulk. Check out r/soldering if you need soldering advise.
​
There are heat shrink splices with low temp bismuth solder built in but they may not match aesthetically. They work well enough but limit your options for length and color.
I can't tell if those are multi conductor wires so I am going to assume a cut and splice job is out of the question. I would recommend some kind of product that can hold up to the natural oils of human skin so electrical tape is also definitely out of the question.
Perhaps scuba tape or self adhesive silicone tape. https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-Fusing-Multi-Purpose-Waterproof/dp/B004F9YN50
Be sure to put some between the conductors to keep them from shorting. It may end up a little bulky but you should get some more use out of them.
If the wire is not multi conductor and just stranded then a solder and splice job with some small gauge heat shrink is the way to go. Can you post some images of where the wire goes to? Like is it a connector of some sort or does it go straight to some device?
It's just a piece of sheet metal.
Masking off around it and spraying it with a conformal coating aerosol (which is pretty much just electronics grade polyurethane varnish used to moisture-proof PCBs) will work.
This stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-CTAR12-Konform-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B07XYFH6RQ
or any of its many competitor products would work.
The PC fan is looking for a PWM controller, to tell it what to do. Without any voltage over the third wire, the fan speed will stay at 0%.
Amazon USA has exact replacements for the original fan. https://www.amazon.com/PY-1225H12S-DC12V-0-35A-Cooling-2-Wire/dp/B08ZS13CQC
Better post !images of the power supply board. The fuse might blow again if there is an issue on the board causing excess current draw
You can find slightly different versions of a through hole fuse to replace it if you are having trouble finding the exact part, searching for through hole fuses at 4A brings up T4A
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-T4AH250V-5x20mm-Time-Lag-Slow-Blow/dp/B0831JL8BV/ref=mp_s_a_1_11
Just get a premade 12v lithium battery pack and use a DC Step down converter that will let you dial in the output voltage to exactly what you need. You then just need to find a way to connect it to the battery terminals on the camera.
https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Adjustable-Universal-Household-Electronics/dp/B07NKZCWT1/ref=sr_1_8
​
This is not a repair question but you can buy DC adapters that output similar voltages and you can just wire it up to the battery terminals
​
r/diyelectronics
So, the replacement part for the part of the diagram labelled D31 / D32 could be one of these:
https://uk.farnell.com/littelfuse/mbrf20200ctr/schottky-rect-200v-20a-ito-220ab/dp/2773834
and the other, to replace D33 / D34 could be one of these:
Those parts are significantly over-rated (bigger and stronger than they need to be) and will, in reality, likely last forever in the circuit they're in.
There are plenty of others available from all of the component manufacturers.
If you want to seek out others, the one for D31 / D32 is a 'common anode' dual diode. The on for D33 / D34 is the other version - 'common cathode'.
The ones I've specified (and, in reality, all others that you'd likely find) are symmetrical in their pin-out - the centre pin is the 'common' and the outer pins are the other ends of the diodes. This means you could fit them in the board facing either way and they'd work - just don't interchange the common cathode and common anode types.
The circuit you posted up shows a 3 amp fuse for each one - so the 20 amp rated ones I've listed won't break a sweat. Voltage-wise... the circuit doesn't show, but these would work even directly off the 120v mains (and I rather suspect there's a step-down transformer before them) so once again, voltage withstand rating is fine.
They're schottky-type, so their VF is a bit lower than the originals, which would give you a few hundred millivolt more coming out of them, but that's utterly insignificant in a real circuit.
You could seek out smaller ones, and maybe save 50c but I'd just fit those and call it done.
That's good news.
We should identify a suitable fuseholder to go on that board - now the sacrificial zigzag track is gone, and presumably it's not a fused plug.
If it's troublesome to get a fuseholder, there are solderable wire-ended fuses which you could use.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-T15AH250V-5x20mm-Time-Lag-Slow-Blow/dp/B082ZQJN4D/
would be perfectly acceptable.
yeah, though it's hard, you can still see those little pins under the plastic. Btw, here's the low melt solder link in case you're finding it:
Thank you for responding. This is what I figured. I researched a bit and it seemed like this one won't break easily and doesn't cost a lot.
I got the same one, same problem.
I used T-7000 black glue to fix it, so far nothing bad.
If you do it carefully, you can remain the water resistance ability.
Link of the glue on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DTZW2F2?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_Y1SPV1B0KD9R6GGP89S0
This would work (assuming that's a standard barrel jack I see).
https://www.amazon.com/Reliapro-ADU240100D5531-Adapter-Transformer-Straight/dp/B00B8866E2/
plus this to convert the plug end
https://www.amazon.com/AILTECK-Connector-Adapter-Female-Security/dp/B08V21NX8L/
Either remove the hinge pins or something like this.
You could likely just hold a bit with pliers for the force required.
Or heat up a spare screwdriver and bend it 90 degrees with a pair of pliers.
This black spudger of sorts REGENI 10pcs RG-513 Disassembly tool made of ESD Preventive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJLDJBS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2K85S7GXMW6J6Z7T842B
For me it's amazing for prying out anything that uses adhesive like batteries, iPad digitizers or phones back glasses.
It's unfortunately like $180 for 10 of them so I'm not sure if they are price competitive but I would never want to be without a few of them
If the power is one of the common sizes for that voltage you can do something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0851C6NWC/
If it’s an odd size there’s still options but it may require purchasing a right angle connector from a parts supplier like mouser, digikey, or RS. Some even have screw terminals but those will still be a bit bulky.
Would putting the monitor in a frame be an option? I’ve wall mounted many displays and tablets inside slightly modified picture frames of different styles. Simple square black matte frames fit into many spaces nicely and are good for hiding wires and mounting hardware.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antex-S58J470-XS25-Silicone-Soldering/dp/B003ITY13W/
is a fairly decent iron for £30. Nice cable as well (which makes quite a lot of difference in the feel of the tool. Antex are good for spare parts availability, and that product's been on the market for years.
If you want something nicer, and are prepared to spend a lot more, then:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174383410764?hash=item289a0fae4c:g:d04AAOSwjgFe-~8K
buys you a TS80P for £75.
I normally do electronics repair at work. I have all the high-end soldering gear - about £5k on my bench.
I went out to Tokyo last year, as a support engineer for my employers (we make TV broadcast equipment). I needed a battery-powerable iron and I bought a TS80P (along with a number of my colleagues). I really can't find anything to dislike about it, or any way it's actually inferior to my £500 Weller iron that I use at work. Compact, nice weight, very short tip-to-grip distance, plenty of power when you use the right USB powerbank, reasonable choice of tips available for not horrific prices.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antex-S58J470-XS25-Silicone-Soldering/dp/B003ITY13W/
is a fairly decent iron for £30. Nice cable as well (which makes quite a lot of difference in the feel of the tool. Antex are good for spare parts availability, and that product's been on the market for years.
If you want something nicer, and are prepared to spend a lot more, then:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174383410764?hash=item289a0fae4c:g:d04AAOSwjgFe-~8K
buys you a TS80P for £75.
I normally do electronics repair at work. I have all the high-end soldering gear - about £5k on my bench.
I went out to Tokyo last year, as a support engineer for my employers (we make TV broadcast equipment). I needed a battery-powerable iron and I bought a TS80P (along with a number of my colleagues). I really can't find anything to dislike about it, or any way it's actually inferior to my £500 Weller iron that I use at work. Compact, nice weight, very short tip-to-grip distance, plenty of power when you use the right USB powerbank, reasonable choice of tips available for not horrific prices.
I think this one might have the connector you're looking for. I'd have to look at the one I've got at work to know for sure.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D37CWW3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FSY7MJNJJXWMGQ5PW0EJ
Our motorised recliner also uses 2-pin DIN plugs, except they're standard plugs with a locking housing.
Not 12V though - they're 29V for some strange reason.
They're like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Supply-Adapter-Transformer-Electric-Recliner-black/dp/B00C0Y0WHK
OP: Don't take this as any indication that the above Amazon item will work with your sofa, it most likely won't.
OK, so it's a custom variation on a DIN 41529 loudspeaker connector.
You have a chassis-mount male connector, in the picture.
The mating connector, as far as pin layout goes is one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/10Pcs-Female-Loudspeaker-Connectors-Speaker/dp/B07SL64NMH/
The original one for your appliance had non-standard plastic bodywork.
The ones I've listed in the Amazon link are definitely correct as far as the metal contacts go, and might or might not fit in the recess in the plastic of the socket.
If they don't, your only real option is to MacGuyver the plastics to fit as the connector on your sofa is a customised version of the standard part.
Awesome. Thanks for your response. Yes, all the other potential issues are ruled out so it must be the surge protector circuit. These things are a humongous pain to take apart. I took the first one apart to look at the components but ended up giving up bc there were so many tiny clips and things inside to provide the movement. (See link)
I might open the other one up and post photos just for curiosity to see if it can be resolved. I’m actually beginning an apprenticeship at an electronics repair shop so maybe this is a good learning step.
Quirky Pivot Power 6 Outlet Flexible Surge Protector Power Strip (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZP74UA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GRQA8X5PYE9NJ2T2SFKT
Are you intending to do any electronics stuff past this? If you're not, it probably isn't worth getting something too fancy. Something like this would probably do, although if you're planning on doing more in the future it's definitely worth getting something nicer.
https://www.amazon.com/ANENG-AN8008-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B076GZK62B
Since the transformer is so conveniently marked, I'd start there. Can you get a picture of the opposite side of it? I see that green is 14V and yellow is 12V (AC), but I don't see the neutral on that side. The brown PCB is your low voltage side of the power supply, there should be some markings as to what voltages the outputs are.
Now that I'm looking at the picture, I can see two capacitors on that board with bulged tops. Those would be my #1 suspect, but it's a good idea to do some voltage tests first anyway.
While not impossible, I feel it is very unlikely your will find well dimensioned drawings. Maybe getting lucky by a certain creator after the fact.
But a set of "good enough" calipers is actually surprisingly affordable! Digital Caliper, Adoric 0-6" Calipers Measuring Tool - Electronic Micrometer Caliper with Large LCD Screen, Auto-Off Feature, Inch and Millimeter Conversion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_RHBDQJ6MAJFR1V6XQXZA
Thank you. I do see on some of the ebay US listings that it is 5, 12, or 24v, but the Amazon listing didn't have an option to select!
Ah well, I will try ordering the 24V version. I had it functioning fully with another model which specified a range of voltage, but the 1/10 second resolution on the other model wasn't fine enough, so I moved to this one. I thought the voltage options meant you could use any within range...
Here is a pic of the verso. timing relay verso I believe from the specs that it is able to take in any voltage up to 24V This is the item. amazon link
I replaced a similar looking one in a keurig couple months ago. Wouldn’t even power on due to this thing being bad.
uxcell KSD301 Thermostat 160°C/320°F 10A Normally Closed N.C Adjust Snap Disc Temperature Switch 2pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L96FQH1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7EK5XXRHH5C9CZJJ4ETS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you just poke something into it, you're displacing the material outwards, and run the risk of cracking or splitting the pillar.
I think it's worth obtaining a drill. The shittiest $5 hand drill and a 50c drill bit off Amazon or Ebay would be more than sufficient for this.
Something as low-tech as this:
and a bit of twiddling it back and forth would do.
>but I’m assuming the solution if this were the issue would be to remove and solder new caps in place?
Correct. Perhaps replace with caps that are rated for higher temps if you plan on continuing to leave this device in direct sunlight.
>With respect, the meters seem to be $60 and at that price I would just buy a new unit instead.
You don't need a fancy one that is highly accurate. You can get basic ESR meters for about $13 from Amazon or for $7-$9 from AliExpress (if you can wait 3 weeks). Banggood.com used to have them for about $8 as well but they seem to have raised their prices. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Aideepen-Mega328-Transistor-Capacitance-Battery/dp/B01M0UXHYY
>Would there be anywhere I could use this meter as a bro-move or is this like a you-have-to-know-a-guy kind of thing?
Even though these are cheap, not everyone has them or even knows of their existence. You may have decent luck finding a dude with a multimeter, but not with one of these. But if you know a hobbyist who is into electronics then they will probably have one of these, maybe even a fancy one.
I have looked at the link you provided and then looked at the amazon page and found plenty reviews with pictures of broken usb connector and there is moulded "5v in" does your fan has that too?
There is the link to the amazon page
Meaco MeacoFan 360 Personal Air Circulator cooling fan for bedroom, desktop, ultra-quiet, energy efficient- White (Energy Class A) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S2D8593/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3870XDDB8W4CCXE68CM6
HKY 18V AC Adapter for Superstar Monster Blaster Splashproof Bluetooth Boombox Speaker Super Star Pioneer STZ-D10Z-R Steez Type-Z Philips OH-1065A1803500U OH-1065A1803500U2 Power Cord https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DW47RTT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8D3S8A1MCV06V73E05TW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's an image of the damaged USB connector: https://imgur.com/yWBsyWz
It is so badly designed that I'm worried it will happen again, the prongs are so flimsy. Would a similar but better designed connector like this be interchangeable? https://www.amazon.com/Female-Type-B-4-Pin-Socket-MXRS/dp/B08MSYS1K5/ref=sr_1_3
Thanks for your help!
This can be repaired get the right connector and crimp a new one on it.
There's one of these:
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384
kicking around at work. People don't seem dissatisfied with it, although I haven't used it personally.
Here you go:
Apparently element14 is called Newark in USA...
>Could also be the Aven 17010
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B01AWN91R2/
Jackpot. Thats the one. Located on Amazon Canada, 35.99CAD. Priced much better than I tought it would be too.
They make heat shrink splices that have bismuth solder in them that are very easy to apply. A heat gun is recommended but a lighter can be used if you are careful. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088R3DVMM/
Honestly one of the more helpful things is being able to tell if it’s pulling power from the wall and how much it’s pulling
ZHURUI PR10-E US15A power meter plug/home power metering socket/watt meter/2.4 inch TFT color LCD/0.5FS(New) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RNFQTL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RD82J8GYD0EDV11TETHX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use but just something to tell the wattage is helpful
I am not very fluent with connectors, but it just looks like a JST connector to me. To get an exact part, measurements help
​
similar to this one:
​
https://www.amazon.eg/-/en/Micro-2-Pin-Connector-Plug-Female/dp/B091C1SZ3W?ref=SQEG-WEB-DP301
​
you can swap the connector on the charger end so you can charge the battery without modifying it
​
I would try dupont wires if they fit in the slots and then just hook em up to a charger, hacky but works
Have you tried cycling the speaker A/B buttons, making sure the button pressed matches the output the speakers are actually connected to?
Are you able to get sound on the Tuner input from the radio?
Moving the volume slider produces crackling from the speakers, yes? So there's hope.
My first guess with this kind of equipment is there might be some corrosion or dust mucking up a switch or potentiometer like the volume, balance, bass, etc.
Grab a can of CRC Electronic or Contact cleaner and blast out the potentiometers and buttons best you can. If you are lucky you can find a small hole or gap to spray into to make sure it reaches the internal wiper of the potentiometer and switch contacts. Always allow it to dry completely before applying power.
The white selector switches inside the unit are of a design that have metal clip shaped things that slide across the pins as you press the button. It is fairly common for these clips to become corroded or loose their springy-ness with time. Start with a good cleaning. If you decide to disassemble them further be careful with the old brittle plastic. Spraying some cleaning into them as you press the button repeatedly brings 90% of them back to life.
Of course, never work on this equipment with the cover off without making sure it's unplugged from mains power. I know it sounds obvious but that's something you will want to double check every time.
If the cleaner doesn't work, try making a video of what it sounds like as you move the volume slider and press the various inputs.
Be careful how deep you cut, also be sure the unit is unplugged, of course.
If you end up needing to replace the ferrite core they make clip on's. https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9
I highly recommend keeping ferrite cores in tact with high power WiFi equipment powered by switching power supplies.
Yeah. My experience with 240 / 120 transformers is that they're all a bit optimistic about their power handling capacity, or at best describe it as peak / intermittent load.
I bought a fairly presentable-looking 1500w unit,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LVYUAN-VTUK-1500-220V-Transformer-Converter/dp/B08S6QDJYY
and popped the lid just to cast an eye over its construction (it's for work) and the actual transformer in there looks more like a 500 - 600VA size when compared to the ones in the products we manufacture.
Thats a panel mount Molex but a small gauge bullet crimp may fit and get the job done. If there is enough slack on the other side I would crimp the appropriate bullet crimp receptacle on it also. Just be sure to match the AWG of the wire as best you can. It's not clear from your picture which guage it is exactly. My guess is 16, but please try to find the marking on the wire to be sure. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-100pcs-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01D9CVFTA/
>Please post a video of its final moments
Never thought of that. I for sure will. New one should be here Jan.11.
In the meantime I got Vastar Soldering Iron Kit 90W - 110V Adjustable Temperature Soldering Gun 176-896℉（80-480℃）with LED Screen, Rapid Heat Up Auto-Sleep Solder Iron Kit, with 5pcs Soldering Tips and Desoldering Pump to tie me over until then. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08JLRTNKP/
You will want to double check the input voltage is correct but I'd suggest a timer / delay relay to push your button once power is applied. https://www.amazon.com/GAEYAELE-Electronic-DC12-240V-Certificate-DC12V-240V/dp/B07C89JJVL/
First things first. Give yourself a chance of this working by cleaning off all of the deposits that are left from when it got water in it.
At work, I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Scratch-Brush-Pen-applications/dp/B07S3RCTGZ
as a first step, and then a wash down with solvent (iso propyl alcohol) to get all the loose bits / dust generated from the cleaning clear of the board.
Thereafter, USB power is on the two outermost (furthest left and furthest right) pins.
Don't get your hopes up too much, to be honest, looking at that board.
From experience, the little push-button switch on the component side of it is unlikely to work, but they're ridiculously cheap and easy to replace.
What's the rest of the insides of whatever it came from like?
I wonder if this would work out of there is one similiar
Sonoff Basic- WiFi Wireless Smart Switch for MQTT COAP Smart Home,Works with Alexa,Google Home Assistant,No Hub Required https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WWNBD3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_B9T8X7WRMPM00ZRNENRM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I find these component identification testers very useful for both identifying the part and seeing if it’s still good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K3BGKXC/
Just be sure to use them on parts out of circuit.
it has a center pin and I found a seller that has multiple attachments with one that matches, but it is rated 12V 1A. My main question is that should I be concerned about the 1A output or do I find that is 1.35A.
and the port had a 6mm width which seems to match one of the extensions on the listing.
If you want to use silicone, it needs to be acid-free (also called neutral-cure).
Normal bathroom type silicone sealant has acetic acid in it (which is why it smells like vinegar).
If you only want a tiny amount, then this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Neutral-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant-Squeeze/dp/B07PGBH1KW?th=1
or a bit more:
https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Adhesive-Silicone-Tube-3Fl-oz/dp/B004SPJN6K
Another cheaper idea if you have a soldering iron is a set of dupont jumper wires. You can peel off the 2 that you need from the ribbon and then cut the wires and solder them to whatever wiring you are trying to connect them to.
JST crimped on connector might work.
Or you could use dupont, they won't lock in but you could always shoot a bit of hot glue on it.