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I bought a different Walnut Hollow kit that included more tips (link), but the tool itself seems like it's the same model. The price went up a bit from when I bought it, didn't seem worth it to pay twice as much for a few more tips. The main feature to look for would be adjustable temperature so you can get just the right amount of heat for your project. I stayed in the yellow ranges on the dial when I was cutting into my totes and that worked really well.
For what I needed it for, this one worked really well. The only issue I had was that the temperature dial is kind of loose so it turns easily. If you aren't careful, it's really easy to accidentally crank the heat if you tug the cord a bit while you're making your cuts, especially if you're working on something big like a tote where you'd be dragging the cord around as you work. Plastic and a 950 degree knife are not a good combo. If you're going to be getting a lot of use out of it, I think shopping around to see if you can find a slightly higher quality one would be worth it.
Not necessarily. It can incubate for a long time and only becomes contagious in the last week or so, when symptoms are starting to develop. If he starts to act unusually erratic or aggressive that would be a red flag, especially if he suddenly disappears or passes away unexpectedly, since it's always fatal. It's pretty rare, but it's definitely something to be cautious about. If you'd like, until you make more progress with safely handling him, animal handling gloves are a great thing to have. I use these, they're nice and long so they provide a great deal of protection. Biting would be the main thing to worry about with rabies, though it could in theory be spread from saliva on his claws if he had recently groomed himself.
There are other more common zoonotic concerns though, like roundworms or tapeworms. Just something to keep in mind until you can get him seen by a vet and figure out what, if anything, he might have.
Just a tip, but if you do a lot of cutting into plastic, a hot knife is really useful to have. I picked up one of these when I was cutting into a resin deck box to make my feeding station. Using a low heat level with the blade tip slices through thicker plastics like butter and gives you nice, smooth edges without cracking. You just need to be careful that you don't use too much heat, otherwise it'll smoke, and ideally do it outside. For poking holes in easy to crack plastic, a manual hand drill has been really nice to have since you can be more gentle with it than an electric drill. Though sometimes I'm lazy and I'll just point the tip of a knife straight into the plastic, press firmly, and rotate it back and forth to bore the hole in. A hot knife would also do the job.
A gravity waterer sounds like a good option since you don't have to worry about freezing temps. I used one of these for my indoor cats. I loved the steel insert since that doesn't seem to get nearly as gross as a regular plastic bowl, and I could just twist the reservoir off and pop the insert out to quickly clean it. If you got two you could have a spare insert and reservoir cap to swap in when it starts to get dirty, since that'll probably happen before the reservoir gets low. If that one's too pricey, Walmart sells all plastic ones for a few dollars though.
Hi :) jus wanted to drop this link of a cat house I am currently using that could also be a recommendation. I got mine on a flash sale for around $60ish, but it retails for $93.72. Easy to put together, good shelter, and has two exits! Just ordered some straw to use in addition to self heating pad. I love the styrofoam idea and might try it.
Awww. That's so sweet. Thanks for creating a shelter for this kitty! I use the K&H weatherproof small animal heating pads for my outdoor shelters (one shelter for cats, separate one for food.) I live in a very cold climate too. They have worked perfectly so far and are low wattage, so not a lot of electricity use.
I put up this one on amazon that seemed to work well. I sprayed it to be waterproofed. They sell multiple sizes, so there should be one large enough for 3 cats: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PH33KD1
I also put up this one, though once it got sprayed on, it smelled sooooo bad, so keep that in mind: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCNF8X4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Inaba-brand Churu treats are puréed snack portions that come in little packets. My feral sweetie baby loves them, and she is very picky when it comes to food and snacks.
As a carpenter, Oh the shelters you can build!
I also get to experience -40s and -30s so the link might help to see what we built to help our colony cats make it through our winters. If you follow that link look for the new winter cat shelter playlist and is should give you some different views of the shelter
We went with 2 levels, the second one only covers 2/3 and has a outdoor heating pad and a small window that can work as an escape hatch. The inside is clad with reflective insulation, the outside has 1.5 inch foam insulation and then is clad with only the most warped former fence boards. Used old tea towels as door covers on dowels. Bottom is full of straw. This is new this year and extremely popular
Make sure with the heating pad that you find one that does not have a timer function. Last thing you want is it turning off by itself on the coldest night.
Pet Heating Pad for Dogs and Cats... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08ZN68LXN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I know TNR isn’t an easy option for you but you 100% need to find an option there. If your feeding and providing shelter,by May your small group will have doubled or tripled in size. Mama cat and all female kittens will have given you a litter. The siblings will likely be the dads. Within 6 months those new baby kittens will be reproducing by this time next year you will have more cats than you know what to do with and they will be producing more.
A mistake I made was making it too complicated at first. I wired it in like I would a door lock and there were occasional problems. Once I figured out to just wire the actuator to the wire that flash the lights I haven't had a problem. You hit either lock or unlock and it works, doesn't matter direction. I successfully used it in my barn from my front porch around 300ft away.
I definitely missed a couple because of the string. Pulling too hard and yanking the trap, pulling too light and just jostling the trap and scaring them. Eventually I just left the drop trap in the down position and let the cats get used to going into it through the door then using the remote to drop the door.
My cats loooove the slicker style brush
When you start off focus on gentle, short strokes around the head and shoulders and when she’s comfortable you can brush the rest of her body.
I've used Petsafe's Smart Feed for the last three years, it generally works pretty great. I did build a wooden enclosure for it so only the bowl is exposed, and that's inside my enclosed, insulated feeding station as well. It's fully protected from the elements, and it's not quite as exposed to the heat/cold during extreme temps.
Technically any manufacturer would say that their feeders aren't intended for outdoor use if just for liability reasons, but as long as it's fully protected and weatherproofed, realistically it's probably fine.
Not all of the automatic feeders are wi-fi connected. If it helps, I have Petsafe's Smart Feed. Pricey, but I've had it for about three years now and it's been really great. There are more options now than there were when I got it, so it's definitely worth shopping around. They technically aren't meant to be used outdoors, so they'd need extra weatherproofing and probably some raccoon-proofing. I built an insulated wooden enclosure for mine to protect it from the raccoons, which is in an enclosed feeding station to protect it from rain/snow. Took a bit of work figuring it out, but I've saved so much time with cat maintenance, and I love not having to go out everyday in the winter haha.
Hmm yeah. If I'm picturing it right, for the space you have you'd need something that opens from the side or top (and be short enough to reach in)? There are lean-to style sheds or maybe even a portable greenhouse (like this) that might work, the latter might be good if you mostly just want coverage for your smaller shelter. The depth of the space behind your garage is kind of an odd size for getting something prebuilt as an all-in-one solution, though.
Absolutely! I went with this one because of the ability to open one side up in addition to the door:
https://www.chewy.com/midwest-ferplast-villa-dog-kennel/dp/228885
But, FWIW, I'm in California and where I live doesn't get particularly cold, but it does rain a bit, which I why I went with plastic over wood. So mostly this is rain and wind shelter. Also, I haven't actually received this yet, it's supposed to be arriving today.
Huh, yeah. I'd imagine that they can see the reflection, but I'm not sure that it would make the cats more vulnerable than they would be without it since other animals would likely still be seeing the cat moving around. If anything, maybe go with a bright color (apparently coyotes can't see red/orange?) with reflective stitching like this rather than the type that just has the big reflective band going all the way around. It'll still give them visibility in car headlights if that's a big concern in your area, and a bright color will help them stand out in light, but they won't be quite as obvious. If the collar you pick comes with a bell, remove that as well.
If you're planning on getting tags for them, I've used this style for all of my cats, including my socialized semi-feral before he came indoors. They're really unobtrusive and won't run the risk of making noise or getting caught on things like a hanging tag.
Yeah, in my area it's been taking a couple of calls and a few weeks to even get through, the clinics are swamped. Finally just got through to one and I'm on a waitlist for if they have any cancellations through November, and if they don't close down before that for winter. Not ideal!
Rice pieces does sound like tapeworm segments (roundworms are long strands, like spaghetti). If you have the stomach for it you could pull up a picture comparison on google images to be sure. For tapeworm you can treat with praziquantel tablets (either crushed and mixed into wet food for each cat, or by disguising it in a pill pocket treat). Cats get tapeworm from fleas though, so unless they're treated for those they'll wind up getting tapeworm again. If any of the cats can be handled you can get a basic topical treatment without a prescription, if not you could at least spot treat with Capstar tablets. That only kills adult fleas, not eggs/larvae, and it only works for a day compared to the monthly topical treatments which target all stages, so it'll at least give the cats some relief if they're really infested with fleas, but it's a very temporary/pricey solution.
I always see people raving about Snuggle Safe discs on my local groups, never used them myself though.
I have outlets so I use heated bowls if I know it won't get eaten right away, otherwise I mix warm water/broth into the wet food and slip it out under the door when I know the cats are around. I also keep a steady supply of dry food available though, and I mix dry kitten food in during the winter for extra calories. Worst case if you can at least leave dry food and provide fresh water for them, that's great too. It's easier to keep water from freezing as quickly since you can leave a greater volume of it out without worrying about it going to waste.
Congrats, truly never give up! Try these some time (there are smaller packages), we've had great luck getting them closer, they can smell it a mile away.
Establishing a call in addition to a schedule can be incredibly helpful as well. I used training clickers like these for my regular ferals, they were too loud for my indoor cats but they're perfect for outdoor use. I started out by either clicking once and tossing a treat or by just feeding wet food after the click. With repetition the cat learns that the click means food, and once they have that association they'll come running when they hear it. They catch on quick, too; most of mine have gotten it within two or three sessions. Really handy tool to have at your disposal in case the cats are running late or something seems off.
You could get cheap rubber tile mats that would good to insulate them from the heat of the balcony. My outdoor cats haven’t clawed them at all.
It might be comforting to know that domestic cats descend from desert-dwelling cats so they can handle the heat a bit better than we can. Still, thank you for taking care of them. They’re lucky to have you.
We make sure that ours have lots of water bowls scattered around, and adding ice helps too. Obviously having shade is important. I used to work at a dog rescue, and we used these for the outdoor runs that didn't have roofs. Ours have makeshift shelters that we've made out of old tote containers, and we also have a few travel crates with the doors hanging open. A fan could also help if you'd be okay with leaving it running for so long, and if they let you brush them that could also help.
I hope it does the trick for you! It takes some trial and error, but once you find something that he's into, you may find that he'll start to figure out how to play independently. One of my former ferals was a bit slow to get it, but play sessions with a wand toy or laser pointer seemed to kickstart things for him and from there he started gradually batting at the toys I left in with him in the middle of the night, during the day he mostly slept. In his case he was already fairly socialized to me when I moved him in (took about eight months to get to light petting outside, then another two years to give in and adopt him), he really only needed to acclimate to indoor life and having other people around, so he moved along much faster.
They can be kind of loud so they may not work at this point, but electronic toys are also a hit with my cats. If your guy is apprehensive about playing when you're in the room, though, they might help. Sort of a middle ground between a wand toy and a stationary toy that he'd have to bat at on his own. Smartykat's Loco Motion is particularly great, the speed can be adjusted so you can start it off slower (and quieter) to see if it'll pique his interest without spooking him, then speed it up a little from there. It's got a timer on it as well, so you can set it (in 15-minute increments) and then duck out of the room so he's all alone with it. Most electronic toys turn off automatically after around 15 minutes, so it's great to have one that can stay on for longer periods when you've got a skittish cat since sometimes it can take them that long just to go for it. A little catnip spray on the feathers seems to really help, too.
It sounds like you really are making progress, even if it doesn't really seem like it. I'd say keep at it and see if he starts to improve from here. Being able to pet him is pretty big, even if it's only over food right now. If you haven't already, I'd say maybe set up some feliway diffusers in his main room(s), and apply feliway spray to his bedding a few times a week just to take the edge off. That might help with his anxiety/stress and make him a little easier to work with.
I know you said you've tried toys, but I'd suggest trying out GoCat's Da Bird rod. It's seriously the best wand toy I've found, I've had the same one for like fifteen years and even my laziest, least playful cats would get sucked in by it. The rod is longer and thinner than most cat wands which works really well for ferals because they don't seem to notice that you're waving something around, so they aren't on edge from that movement and can focus solely on the toy. The rod itself has some give to it, so it gives the toy more realistic movement since you can bob it up and down on the line, or pull it back once the cat latches onto it to give them the sensation of resistance. I use the sparkler attachment, it's shiny and makes a crinkly sound when it moves and it's impossible for my former ferals to ignore. They like running and pouncing after it more than strictly batting at it, their favorite is when I whip it up through the air and have it land on a couch or chair, or if I drag it around furniture and out of sight. They'll hear the rustling so they'll track it for a few seconds and then pounce. I have to try to keep it realistic with them, my lifelong indoor cats on the other hand are content to just jump straight up in the air after it.
If you can add any vertical space, like a cat tree or two, that will go a long way towards keeping them comfortable in the space. Cats are climbers, so making the most of the available space by adding levels will do more good than just giving them more floorspace would. Give them some toys, too. I always thought a ball track like this would be neat in a catio since it can be customized to fit the space and can help get the cats running around to play.
Other than that you'll also want to make sure they have seasonally appropriate enclosed shelters to sleep and hide out in. Probably not a big issue right now, but if you get cold winters you'll want to keep that in mind.
I have a smart feeder now, but I used to just use a cheap gravity feeder (taped closed and weighed down with a brick) along with a waterer. I have a ~$30 camera pointed at my bowls so I can remotely see who's been eating, double check that there's enough food and make sure that everything is in order. I get raccoons occasionally and they tend to make a mess and throw the bowl around, so being able to have eyes on it is huge. Might not be worth it if you aren't away much, but it's a good compromise over sending someone there every day if things are looking okay.
As for ants, I sprinkled a layer of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter inside my deck box feeding station. It's a flour-like powder that kills insects, but it's reasonably safe around cats as long as it's food grade and you don't use too much, especially near the bowls, since it's not great to breath in. I've never seen an ant near my food, but being enclosed and up off the ground probably helps a bit. The last few weeks I've been feeding out of a trap right next to the deck box, and that got swarmed so badly that I had to put an outdoor ant bait next to it. Other than that, putting the food bowl in water should keep ants from getting into it. If ants are your main concern you could probably set up a gravity feeder in a deep enough dish that the water will last until you get back. There's also things like an ant-proof tray that might be a bit more reliable.
One last thought is to check the extended forecast as well so you'll know if you might need to make any changes to your setup to protect it from rain/wind.
Yeah, it takes time to override that wariness. If you toss treats in a few times a week you might find that they'll get less apprehensive about going in and the carrier will start to be normalized, so it may be helpful down the line. In the meantime it can't really be rushed, especially since they're already familiar with the carrier, so it's good to work on before you urgently need to get them in one.
I think a house call is a good move, but the bed is definitely going to have to at least be blocked off. I have these small animal playpen panels ziptied to the bed frame in my cat room and that's been working really well for keeping the cats out. Depending on the frame you might even be able to rig up a way to make it so that they still have some space to hide under there, but make it so that they can't go further than arms' reach. A bit of a compromise for them.
One of my ferals was about that age when I started socializing her. It took maybe three months to get her to go from running away at the mere sight of me to accepting pets and coming inside and staying in for the day. A month post-trapping isn't too long in the scheme of things, especially if she didn't interact much with people while she was outside.
Worth mentioning, if she's not fixed yet you'll want to start looking into it. My former feral ended up getting pregnant literally days before I moved her in for good. I had her spay scheduled for 2-3 weeks after I brought her indoors but my vet double booked and had to reschedule for about a month later, at which point she was very clearly pregnant and ended up giving birth like three days before the appointment. I even had an ultrasound done when I first moved her in to make sure we were in the clear, but it was too early to tell. Was quite the rollercoaster.
As for socializing, squeeze tube treats like Hartz Squeeze Ups or Inaba Churu work wonders. For whatever reason cats go absolutely crazy over them and even a feral cat will go out of their comfort zone for one. They're great for both getting cats comfortable being pet and handled, as well as coaxing them out and encouraging them to approach people. Laser pointers and wand toys are also great for getting ferals to venture out in your presence. GoCat's DaBird rod is literally the best wand toy you can get, and it works well for ferals because it has so much extra reach over other options so it allows you to stay a good distance away for their comfort. My former ferals absolutely love the sparkler attachment for it, it's impossible for them to ignore.
The way she's sitting reminds me of my one indoor cat. He'll sit directly in front of the mirror with his face about two inches from it, and he'll just... stare at himself. Sometimes I'll catch him still sitting there 20-30 minutes later. Could be your cat is looking at the reflection in the glass, especially during the day. Sometimes I'll catch my ferals circling by my glass door and they'll freeze for a second and walk up to investigate for a minute before carrying on. Took the longest time for me to realize they were reacting to their reflection.
Otherwise she may just be getting comfortable with your current dynamic and, even though she doesn't want further interaction or need more food, she doesn't necessarily want to be alone. She could just be bored, and your presence helps change up the routine. If you've never tried it before, you could see if she's interested in playing. You could try a laser pointer or set out a few different toys for her to see if she's just looking for something to do. I got this plastic ball track for one of my ferals that practically lived on my deck (he lives indoors now), he absolutely loved it. On warm days I'd catch him sprawling in it like he was in an inner tube, basking in the sun.
Amakunft Adjustable Cat Cone Collar Soft, Cat Neck Cones to Stop Licking for Cat/Kitten/Small Dog https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VD419D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TT07AMC8294NAWZ37C90?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just a thought but you may be able to rig up a larger enclosure for them by using something like a chicken run (something like this). It'd probably need some added catproofing especially around the door, and I think setting up a second, smaller one attached to it to make an airlock style entrance would probably not be a bad idea. That way you could go in through the exterior door, close that, and then open up the interior one without any risk of the cats being able to slip past and escape.
Ha, I accidentally acquired my colony in late fall so I had to throw my winter setup together real fast and learned as I went. I've been through three winters with them now, and everything is still holding up surprisingly well though! Planning ahead is definitely a good move, and it'll give your cat time to get used to your shelter and check things out before she really needs it.
If it helps, I use this 32oz bowl for water. I line it with a disposable pie tin to keep it easy to clean, otherwise the plastic gets slimy. I also have their Thermo-Kitty Cafe (link) which works really well for wet food since the steel bowls are removable, makes cleanup super easy.
It feels weird to have such strong feelings towards a cat toy, but Da Bird is seriously the best. My cats absolutely love the sparkler attachment for it.
Thanks! Maybe start off about 10ft away from the catio and slowly start getting closer as she gets more comfortable?
The toy I'm using is called "Da Bird" and is made by GoCat. You can find it at most pet stores, as well as on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_RF40VEMKX6VRP57MMP5V
Very normal behavior here.
We have 8 cats. 2 came before we started fostering feral cats. The other 6 range from "I love to pet please touch me" to "don't fucking touch me. If you touch me I'll fuck you up".
One just doesn't know how to play with humans but she still loves playing. She's very spazzy when she plays, just like your kitty. We have found that these toys are fantastic for play with spazzy cats: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094RD9P53/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AN1KR9X55MC4KQD7YJCP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also, over time hopefully she'll adjust more. While our kitty has been with us for a little over two years she is getting better and slowly more social. She now has places in the house that if she sees you, she feels comfortable enough to walk up and brush into you and even let you touch her. Too much and she says no, but hey, it's so much better than where we started.
To get started, see if you can find an out of the way, discreet spot to start feeding from. Wet food can be helpful since the smell carries. If you can, stash a cheap trail camera nearby to see who's checking it out in between visits, if there's one kitten there may be others. Once your food is being eaten you can assess the situation, if there's multiple cats and you're up for it TNR would do the most good for right now. Otherwise, if the kitten starts routinely showing, you can try lingering from a distance after you leave the food so they know you're responsible and they can start getting used to seeing you around. I sit/squat on the ground when I feed my ferals, it's less intimidating than standing around and there's less risk of accidentally spooking them by shifting around.
Establishing an audible cue that means mealtime is also helpful, once they make the connection you can use it to try calling them over if they're within hearing range. For instance my ferals I flick the edge of a styrofoam plate a few times before putting wet food out which makes a loud distinct sound, they'll come running from a few yards over if they hear it now. A clicker can also work, I have a few like this that are way too loud for my indoor cats, but they're pretty perfect for outside use. I had a few ferals that were already comfortable getting a bit closer to me, so I had a few sessions where I'd go through and click once and toss a dental treat, then repeat a few times to get them used to it. It can be really handy to have a way to call for them, especially once they're comfortable with starting to move towards you rather than running away.
Temperature is the main thing, so as long as you use the high heat cycle and the bowls are thoroughly cleaned at the end (no food residue) and dried you should be fine.
If you're really concerned about properly disinfecting the feral bowls you can look into something like Rescue One-Step disinfectant, it's the type of product that vet clinics and shelters use. You can get wipes off of Amazon, you would just clean the bowls with soap and water if desired, then wipe them down and let them sit for a few minutes before rising and drying them.
I HIGHLY suggest this: https://www.amazon.com/Relaxivet-Dog-Calming-Pheromone-Diffuser/dp/B08773ZHYQ
I brought in a five month old kitten and he was doing the same thing. This helped quiet him down at night. They're still adjusting and are probably anxious. This will calm them. It helped with the one I brought in and his two siblings that my friend took in.
Oh yeah, that's going to be a hit. When my kittens were little, I ordered this cheap pack of toys with a tunnel. It was a hit. Everyone would tear through it.
I have been in your shoes multiple times and have felt what you felt though. The crying is pitiful and it was keeping me up at night. (And slowly driving me crazy.) You start to doubt yourself and whether this was in their best interests. It's always 100% better down the line. Promise.
Thanks for the words of encouragement!
That's a good point that they could be depressed and/or bored; I'll break out the lazer pointer and see if that helps get them moving more during the day. I also ordered this cat tree/activity center that's supposed to arrive tomorrow (if they don't like it, or ultimately end up going outside, my two indoor girls will love it):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KTX7DB1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4EBDNPC641DYZMVCVMJA
That's a good point with not getting energy out! In addition to being used to sleeping during the day, they could be depressed and/or bored.
I'll break out the lazer pointer and see if that helps get them moving more during the day. I also ordered this cat tree/activity center that's supposed to arrive tomorrow (if they don't like it, or ultimately end up going outside, my two indoor girls will love it):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KTX7DB1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4EBDNPC641DYZMVCVMJA
When I moved two of my semi-ferals indoors I "trained" them to go in a carrier to get them inside. I used this 24" top-loading one, it's tall and roomy enough that they were reasonably comfortable going in, and being able to tie the top door open at first helps too since it'll seem less enclosed. She'll definitely still panic if you go this route, but it'll be nowhere near as bad (and risky!) as trying to pick her up and carry her the whole way. It'd be easier on her than a trap as well.
With my first cat I was letting her in my kitchen and kept the carrier set up for her there. I'd sit next to it and reach through the top, holding my hand out through the front to encourage her to come in for pets. I'd drop treats and catnip in it for her every now and then too. With repetition she started treating it like a bed and would go in on her own to sleep. On the day of her vet appointment I was able to toss a few treats in the carrier to get her in and closed the door behind her.
My second cat had never been inside. I left the carrier set up on my back porch so I wouldn't have to move it around and risk spooking him. I trained him to go in by feeding wet food and squeeze tubes in the carrier, starting at the entrance and then gradually pushing it back as he ate. He was jumpy so it took a few days for him to be comfortable sticking around inside to eat a full meal without darting out. From there I worked on slowly closing the top door as he ate. After a week or so he was calm enough that I was able to sneak the front door closed and brought him in.
I've done fish mox a few times for wounds/abscesses (and other meds for both my indoor and feral cats), a 50g x .001g scale is also great for precisely dosing out tiny amounts of medication by weight. I have one like this that I've been using for years, I calibrate it every time I use it and then I can just weigh out the powder and mix it right into a bit of wet food (or load up a syringe or capsule, depending on the cat/med). Super convenient to have one on hand!
If you can't trap him in a reasonable amount of time, you could put fish mox in his food while you keep trying. It's amoxicillin for aquariums. Get the 500 mg caps and then search online for how to dose it (just a matter of mixing with a measured amount of water, then dosing it out). It's not ideal, and of course Convenia or Clavamox are preferable, but fish mox does work. Some online stores that sell it are scammy, so I'd stick with someplace you know, like Chewy. Here's what they currently have in stock: https://www.chewy.com/midland-vet-services-aqua-mox-forte/dp/344727
I went through this same process with my first feral cat when I was starting to let her indoors for longer stretches of time. She would want to be let outside so she could go in the yard and come running back inside though. I ended up scooping some of the dirt from the spot she was frequenting into a new litter box, then set that near the door for her. I think it was the right combination of familiarity and the outside being cold and snowy, 'cause that got her to start using it. From there I switched to a bag of peat moss so it was a bit less gross (still pretty messy though), dumped it after use, and then mixed a little bit more clumping litter in each time she used the litter box to gradually transition her over to that. This is the slow way to do it. Confinement in a small space (like a large dog crate) works really well for quickly getting ferals litter trained, I've held a few in crates for TNR recovery and they all got the idea on the first day; they instinctively go where they can dig around and cover their waste, restricting their access like this makes it so the litter box ends up being the only viable option for them.
Make sure you thoroughly clean any spots she's peed with an enzymatic cleaner, if she's still picking up any urine odors on the couch it might draw her back to that spot rather than your litter box. Try and remove any other ideal (to her) alternative spots as well, like blanket or clothes piles, or anything that she'd be able to dig around in. If you're having trouble breaking the couch habit, washable incontinence pads (like these) are amazing for saving yourself the time and effort of having to frequently clean a couch.
Seconding this. I have this dual heated bowl that's perfect for both wet food and water since the stainless steel inserts are removable for quick and easy cleaning. I have a bigger plastic heated bowl that I use for just water in my feeding station, but it gets kind of gross as-is and it's difficult to clean in the cold. I've been using disposable aluminum pie tins to line it instead which works well enough, then I just toss it and replace it as needed.
For sure. I buy the big 48 packs off Chewy and my cats start running if I so much as loosen the lid, but they also somehow recognize the sound of one lone squeeze tube being picked up. Those audible cues can be really handy!
Would defintely advise putting the top on so that it's more like a den. Or invest in something like this. (They also have shark versions that are adorable.)
This isn't unusual: ferals tend to be active at night, and cats in general sleep a lot. They'll probably start to shift their schedules around as they acclimate to the new environment and your presence/activity. It's best to start ferals off in a small space to ease them into things, a crate is ideal but a room with limited hiding spots can also work. Block off what you can (small animal playpens can work really well for this, for instance I ziptied these panels to the bed frame in my cat room so no one can get under there). It's okay if your cats have some hiding spots, but if they're able to burrow into a nook where they can completely tune you out it'll be harder to work with them. Cave beds, boxes, or carriers all work really well as hiding spots. Cat trees are also good. You can try using catnip or treats to help encourage them to switch over.
It's only been a few days though, it's still early. Spend as much time as you can just hanging out in the room with them, pair it with wet food or treats, make a schedule for playing with them, and give it some time to see where they're at. Once you figure out their boundaries you can work on gently pushing them. Just take it slow and move in baby steps.
I have a tarp on one of my heated shelters (this one). I didn't tie my tarp down, I just used bricks. Not sure if this is going to make sense, but I folded the front and back of the tarp underneath, so it's essentially double layered with a bit of an overhang on the roof to help keep it stiff so it doesn't get in the way of the doors. Then I folded the sides of the tarp straight down along the sides of the shelter, folded the excess at the bottom back up into little pockets on the inside and slid some bricks on their sides in there to keep the tarp taught. Put an extra brick on the center of the roof for good measure, and it's held up well even through windstorms where it gets hit with gusts of wind coming straight up the driveway.
For my other shelters I've been trying out PVC roof panels (link) cut to fit and weighed down with a few bricks. Might be worth a try if your cats are wary of the tarp.
Should be fine, just double check the tape every now and then if the temperature fluctuates a lot throughout the season or if the sun's hitting it. Over time it can stiffen and start to lift up. I had a few tote lids crack last winter so I'm testing out silicone sealant as a more permanent solution since the gorilla tape I patched them up with was starting to leak.
It's also a good idea to drill a smallish hole in the bottom so that if water does start to get in, it can at least drain out.
“Stress” is what I do when I’m in this same situation. 😅 I second what someone else said about asking your network. 2 weeks isn’t a short time so maybe across 1-2 different people you can have them trading off checking on the cats every other day or so. (That way it’s less of a burden on any one person.) I’m also traveling for the holidays and I’m asking a friend to check the feed the cats every other day. I do them daily so I still feel bad that they’re not getting the “frequent touch” level that they’re used to but it’s the best I could do.
You could also buy a cheap gravity feeder but the issue with these are they can attract rodents and other wildlife. It might bring unpopular attention to your colony. You’d also have to put it under cover in case it snows or rains.
The last thought I had is you say you’re a student. Is there a favorite teacher or campus support staff who you know is an animal person who could help you out? It might be more likely that they’re staying in the area. If you go to a big school could you post on a campus group forum to see if any students are staying over the course of the break and could they help out?
Yeah, they can get dangerous and act erratically in situations like this. I had a ~3 month old semi-feral kitten slip out of a trap during a transfer (to a large carrier) and she managed to shred my hand with her claws on the way out, not even by attacking, just by scrambling over it. This video is incredibly helpful for learning techniques for a variety of to-and-from transfers, and normally when I'm dealing with trapped ferals I keep a pair of these elbow length animal handling gloves nearby. To minimize the amount of handling you have to do it's best to only trap a day or two before the appointment so the cat can safely stay in their trap, and if a transfer needs to be done, only do it in a closed off space that you're willing to sacrifice to the cat in case they slip through.
If you got bit, keep a close eye on it. Cat bites are prone to infection and can get pretty serious. It's rare but rabies is also a concern, but if the cat isn't at the symptomatic stage they wouldn't be contagious.
Aw, yeah I get that. You have to work a little harder with cats. Then, I swear my cats are more affectionate than my dog. I always have someone laying on me or cuddling me. My dog is like "whatever, walk me, and feed me. thanks."
You just have to remember that she's little and scared right now. I wouldn't take anything personally.
I use a lot of my "dog logic" on the cats though. You can bribe them for their love. You can buy these meat tubes at any pet store. I squeeze out a little on my finger and let them lick it off so that they know my hands mean good things for them.
As far as pets, I think Jackson Galaxy has videos on how to pet cats.
Unless raccoons/rats/opossums, etc. are a concern with leaving food out, how about a gravity feeder and waterer (like these)? Secure them closed and maybe weigh them down so they can't be tipped over. Then if you're able to find someone willing to stop by, just have them check to make sure they're still doing okay and top them up if needed.
When there were more I used Friskies. It was economical & they liked it. There’s only one left so she gets Fancy Feast. Good dry food is really important. I noticed it never paid to feed cheaper foods. I always looked for a food that filled them up properly. Cheaper foods never did the trick! I feed Taste of the Wild, Rocky Mountain flavor. and it works out really well. Palatable & they eat less but stay full.
It's frustrating that your trapper is going after cats without collars since not every cat tolerates wearing one, and even then they might get caught on something and unbuckle. Since you know someone's at least in the area and trapping cats, definitely check in with your shelters too in case your missing one was brought in. If your ex-feral is ear-tipped, ask about their protocol with ear-tipped/feral cats as well. Go in person if you're able to, you might get more information than over the phone. Check in with any other feeders you know of as well. If you've got a picture of your cat that shows any distinct markings or features give them a copy and ask if they've seen him, or if they can let you know if he stops by.
I'd say look into Chewy's offerings for GPS trackers. They have a really lax one year return period so you can essentially do a test run to see if it your cat's okay with it, that it works as expected, and double check that the GPS/cell coverage in your area is adequate. Since you're in the country I'm not sure how well an AirTag or Tile type tracker would work since they rely on other Bluetooth devices for tracking, so an actual GPS tracker would likely be more foolproof for your area.
If your indoor cat isn't already used to wearing a collar, test one out while you shop for trackers. That way she'll acclimate to wearing it while it's more low-profile; all of the trackers I've seen are a bit bulky. I only have ID tags on my cat collars, I use these since they're less likely to get snagged on things than hanging tags. My cats are microchipped as well, but to be honest I don't entirely trust people to take found cats in for a chip scan.
I have this Tomahawk FixNation trap now, but I've borrowed a few different types from my feral group before I got my own. This one is definitely sturdy and I prefer it to the other traps I've used (though they all worked fine). I don't like the idea of collapsible traps though because they just seem like they would introduce a huge margin of error if it malfunctions or isn't properly locked; I want to get the cat on my first attempt, I don't want to have to outsmart a trap-savvy cat that managed to escape the first time.
Two door traps are definitely ideal, they make transfers so much easier on top of giving you another access point for cleaning/feeding trapped cats. My very first wave of TNR one of my borrowed traps only had one door, so I had to learn on the spot how to transfer the cat out of that trap into a carrier for a long-term crate setup which admittedly wasn't terrible, but was not ideal for my first transfer attempt. One door traps are also more difficult to use with kittens since they're more capable of squeezing out through the angled door when it's lifted.
In my first wave of trapping I also had one cat who knew to step over the trip plate of the trap I was using to get to the food and then sneak back out, I ended up having to tape some cardboard to it to extend the plate and then balance the hook to make it more sensitive. The FixNation trap comes stock with an extended plate to make it harder for the cat to step around. It's a minor feature, but it's nice to not have to worry about it.
Ha, definitely. If you're going to be doing a lot of trapping, a trap divider like this is also really helpful since it lets you secure the cat on one end of the trap so you can safely work on the other end. I didn't buy my own trap until I had TNRed most of my cats so I haven't quite been able to justify the cost of it yet, but if you're just starting out you might find it useful to have one on hand.
I used to feed on small disposable plates and ran into the same issue with wet food spilling over the edge, I switched to food trays like this and they've been so much neater. Perfect for wet food too since they've got enough extra height to be able to mix water or broth in to help keep the cats hydrated.
As for diatomaceous earth, one of the claims is that you can mix it into food and it'll act as a dewormer as well. Definitely stick to food grade diatomaceous earth though, otherwise it'll have toxic amounts of silica in it. I've used this brand in the past mainly to make a perimeter around the inner walls of my deck box feeding station, and it does seem to work well for keeping insects out. I've had it set up for two years and I've never really seen any insects in there. As mentioned, use it sparingly since it's hard on their lungs, especially if it's used in their shelters or other enclosed spaces. You can use a powder duster to make sure it's evenly spread where you need it to be.
Aww, those are very tragic losses! My feral’s mama cat also left after TNR. Actually, Louise (my feral) also took after TNR but eventually moved back! I was happy to see her. There was a vicious dog next door for a long time that kept her away, but when the dog was gone & a blizzard struck, she joined her brother & sister. And now here she is!
If Blackie is food motivated maybe try treat time! I’ve been moving the treats closer & Louise moves closer. She’s definitely making progress! If Blackie does seem stressed while in mourning, another thing you can try is adding some Bach’s Rescue Remedy for Pets drops into her water or directly onto her treats. I use it a lot for my indoor cats during thunderstorms and it really chills them out.
Oh wow, that is a perfect spot for her. Good eye there! I'd be worried about well-meaning passerby trying to open up the crate, but it's great that no one's bothered her.
With how she's nestled up against the edge of the litter box, I think she'd like having something covered to hide and sleep in. That should help keep her stress levels down, too. I use a carrier like so since it also helps keep the cat contained when the crate is being opened, but in a pinch you could use a cardboard box, line it with a towel, tape it up and then cut a 5-6" hole in the front so she can get in and out. Or a bed like this could work too. If she ends up towards the front of the crate, I'd say try turning the litter box lengthwise so it's in the back corner against the side door, and then that will free up the furthest corner from the doors for the box/bed. That will also help keep her safely out of reach for when you're in there scooping the litterbox or refilling her food and water. If you can't safely get in the crate to rearrange, you might be able to slide things around from the outside through the bars to get everything ready.
She's so lucky to have you looking out for her! And the rest of her colony too!
There's also self-grooming arches like this that might be useful for the more distant ferals. Or maybe this plastic one, to be a bit more weatherproof. But something like that seems like it would be pretty cheap and easy to DIY like how you rigged up yours. You could probably even try lining shelter entrances with them so the cats get brushed a bit when they go in and out.
As long as the garage is reasonably safe for cats to be running around and there's no risk of the mom or kittens breaking out, they should be okay staying in there. If you're able to sneak in there and make sure nothing's at risk of spilling or tipping over, that probably wouldn't be a bad idea. If you decide to let them stay in the garage and you have outlets available there, a wireless camera or two would be great to have so you can keep an eye on the situation. Something like this would work great since you can pan/tilt to get a good look around the garage, plus it has night vision and can be set up for motion detection.
I personally would try trapping her and getting her set up in a dog crate before she has the kittens, just to be able to have eyes on the situation and be able to step in if anything goes sideways. But the stress of trapping and confinement is definitely something to keep in mind; there's pros and cons to both ways of doing it.
In a pinch, I've had decent luck getting mini "craft" straw bales from Michaels (example). The ones they sell aren't treated with anything, so they'll work fine for feral cat shelters. You can find basically the same thing for a bit more on Amazon, or you can also get a proper 4lb bale on Amazon/Etsy, but that'd honestly be a ton of straw for just one cat. Quick note: if you do shop around for it, make sure you get straw, not hay. Hay absorbs moisture and gets cold and potentially moldy, straw repels moisture and helps trap the cat's body heat, helping them stay warm and dry. Put a thick layer of straw in the bottom of the shelter so your cat can burrow into it and make a little nest around his body. You might have to toss treats and catnip in there to get him to go in at first. If he has an electric heating pad in his shelter, you wouldn't want to put straw in there with it though.
If you're able to pick one up and have an outlet free outside, a heated water bowl would probably make a big difference for your cat to help keep his water from getting too cold. I've been using one of these for a few years and it's been working great. But if you're okay going out to warm up his water, that works too!
Just a thought, but loading the flea medication into an oral syringe (example) might work out better for you. In theory you should be able to go up into the fur with the tip of the syringe to part it, and then press the plunger when you have a clear shot. I've never tried it this way, but it seems like the syringe would be easier to control and apply with one hand.
It's probably worth mentioning that a 6-8 week old kitten is going to be more susceptible to predators, cars, and other people. I do think it would probably be best to either bring the cat in until she's older, spayed, and vaccinated if you could figure out a way to free up a room for her or get her set up in a large dog crate, or you can keep working to get her friendly enough to be able to surrender to a rescue since she's so young.
Short term, definitely buy or build a shelter. I have a few of these heated shelters, as well as a few that I made out of plastic storage totes, insulation board, and straw (not blankets or hay!) like this. You can either trap her and do TNR or you can wait until she's friendly enough to go to a regular vet. But you will need to keep her indoors while she's recovering from the spay surgery, and you want to make sure you do it before she's old enough to get pregnant. I agree with the other poster about getting her microchipped in case she wanders off or someone takes her in.
If you're okay with having cameras (like this) set up in your home, you can get a few generic pan/tilt/zoom cameras off Amazon to keep an eye on things when it's dark. I have a few that I used when I brought my feral kitten inside, they're pretty handy.