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![Lightdow 12 x 12 Inch (30 x 30 cm) White Balance 18% Gray Reference Reflector Grey Card with Carry Bag [Folded Version]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41yOhfVswsL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/GH5:
Google Photos
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DaVinci Resolve
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The most popular reviews in /r/GH5:
I would recommend the Nisi Fliter Kit 77mm. Then use Step Up/Down Rings for your different lens sizes, instead of buying multiple filter kits for different sizes.
Damn dude! I need a job at a camera store!
I got the Free Tail card from Amazon, and it has been working great! Continuous recording until the card is full at 400 Mbps.
You got a HDMI cable that is not up to spec. Just get an Amazon Basics cable, and you'll be fine.
It works for me on my GH5S and Ninja V without a hitch.
I use that card without problems. Were you trying to record at 400Mbps? It won't work for that. Works fine for 100Mbps or 150Mbps, though
EDIT: this card? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J5RH06K That's the card I use.
Shit son, is it hammered? That's a cheap GH5!
SD cards don't have to be super crazy as long as you're not shooting all-i. Any V30 would do, and plenty of sub V30s as well. I personally have had 12+ Samsung micro SDs that have worked great for years and terabytes of shooting. If you do want all-i recording I've used Sony M cards with great success, and recently bought some ProGrades that are up to the task as well.
Lenses are going to vary with what you want to shoot and how you want it to look. Architecture, macro, product, interview, sports, music videos, they all call for different tools. You can also buy adapted for the GH5 easily and look at hundreds and hundreds of other lenses outside MFT as well if you want.
The GH5 will tell you how much record time you have per SD card, so it'll be pretty easy to do the math and see if you're covered there.
I'd be more concerned with battery power. While I'm incredibly impressed with battery life on the GH5, I'd still feel a lot more comfortable with at least four batteries on this shoot. For $30, you can get two Wasabi batteries (work great) and a charger on Amazon:
/u/historyofourlives - the GH5 is on sale right now with the 12-60 lens at all authorized retailers, to include Adorama, Amazon, B&H, Cameta, Ritz, etc.
An even better deal might be the GH5, the Leica 12-60 f/2.8-4 plus a free case, 32 GB SD card, extra battery and filter set for exactly the same price.
This camera is from an authorized US retailer and comes with the full factory warranty.
Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the best deal on your GH5!
Sure thing! You can create it yourself by doing the same thing I did in my video, but except choosing "Camera/Monitor LUT" choose "Grading" and set the Hard Clip both blacks and whites.
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Here you go! :)
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Just off the top of my head, I’m convinced prores HQ is more than 220mbps. Are you certain that correct for 4k UHD
Edit: White paper states 754mbps for 4k at 25p or 339 GB per hour. It’s likely you’ve been reading the stated data rates for HD.
Page 25 here has a table https://www.apple.com/final-cut-pro/docs/Apple_ProRes_White_Paper.pdf
Second edit: the difference between LT and HQ is marginal unless your filming something you know is going to need a serious grade or post work. For example, interviews, talking heads I always do in LT if not just internally. You may have damned good reason for using HQ, but always worth mentioning.
Thank you for the thorough reply! Yes, I tend to agree with you. As it happens, I am getting the small rib cage. Should I get this adapter:
SmallRig Lens Adapter Support for Canon Metabones EF Lens to Micro Four Thirds T Smart Adapter and GH5/5S Cage - 2016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074NW745Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0XZDAGKN3B1GETGM7RKG
I keep mine in this large backpack, I have the smallrig battery grip cage. Everything else easily slides off ( top and side handle, ninja v, mic) because most are on rails.
if you don't intend to shoot 400 Mbp/s All I the best value I've found is the Samsung Evo select micro SD with adapter. I have 11 or 12 of these right now, and have lost 1 or 2. No corruptions or failures over terabytes and terabytes of recording for the past 3-4 years. Added bonus is you can easily slot them in a drone, gopro, audio recorder, or phone if you need a card.
I used to recommend these Sony M cards for All I, but apparently there's been a bad run of them since I first bought mine 2-3 years ago. ProGrade make good cards, so does Delkin.
Been using it for ages but it’s similar to this one, if not the same.
Neewer Professional Aluminum Alloy Quick Shoe Plate Adapter with 1/4 3/8 inches Screw for DSLR Camera Camcorder Tripod Monopod,Compatible with Manfrotto 501HDV 503HDV 701HDV 577/519/561/Q5 (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RWA45/
Get it from amazon right here like I did and they include some nice accessories too; the bag while simple is pretty good, two EXTRA batteries for 3 total, an extra plug in the wall with no cord charger, 64GB memory card from a known brand and some other stuff. GH5 kit on amazon (I don't make anything from the sale just helping out)
depends on which cable....they have two versions and if you dont get the expensive one from atomos...it's not gonna work. I called up atomos and I ended up getting this one from amazon and it works fine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLOONMS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I kid you not that thin cable is perfect and I have had no problems with the output. I have many other cables from this place too including custom lengths, and it's always top notch. I would avoid the thicker cables as they have much less flexibility and are harder to work with.
I also got This cable from amazon and it did NOT work correctly with the ninja inferno, and at one point I got a whole mess of clips of different length instead of the one long clip I should have. I also noticed a little kangaroo symbol on the inferno, indicating a "jumpy" input. Upon switching cables It's been perfect.
The HDMI definitely matters, but you don't need to spend a ton on a cable.
/u/Oxygen_O2 - with a 1.000€ budget, I recommend the Oly 12-40mm f/2.8, which is on sale for 818,19€ right now at Amazon DE - plus a 169,69€ Oly 40-140mm f/4 at the long end.
This will keep you under 1.000€ and give you a relatively fast lens at the wide end plus a solid telephoto.
Good luck and Happy New Year!
I got the 82mm and it was about $150 from Adorama. As for step rings, I just picked up this full set up up/down rings on Amazon and they are great for the money:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JL4HGAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> Update: > Just got from ebay a used Voigtlander Heliar 75mm f1.8 for $400. So I managed to save $300 from buying it new. > Bought a Fotodiox adapter for M to MFT from amazon. 21.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RJFD7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 > (If the adapter works perfectly then cool. If not I would purchase the adapter from Voigtlander.)
Many shots were made with a stabilizer (DJI roninS), a tripod or a slider. For the lighting (venus fly trap, praying mantis, dung beetle, seed lens) I use a small and cheap desk lamp bought on amazon (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01M1IDOXB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Completely understand. That said, if you have Prime, it might cost you a little less to order from Amazon DE.
Right now, the 25/1.7 is on sale for €164,80 with free shipping to the EU.
Again, good luck!
I use this one right here and it works great. It also lets you compare depth of field from various sensor sizes, so you know what you need to do to make different cameras match.
The wider the field of view and and the higher F number = the wider depth of field.
To simulate some numbers try some depth of field calculator, I'm using android so this one is only as an example: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.zendroid.hyperfocal
But there is a lot more, I believe iPhone app store also have some equivalency.
This adapter seems to work fine though the battery should have a 4-Amp USB capability. Some don't. I found one power block that some camera functions didn't seem to work right.
The battery does power both. It lasted about and hour and 45 min in the test a did the other day. Here's some details about that: https://old.reddit.com/r/GH5/comments/ipw6v6/some_battery_info_and_a_question/
The cheap MOVO mic I started with actually sounds pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/Movo-VXR10-Microphone-Windscreen-Smartphones/dp/B0723D3FVL/
And you can point it "backwards" at you if you are talking while filming forwards, which you can't do with the built in camera mics.
I don't pay attention to Nikon much so I'm not going to pretend to know how lens mount compatability works with them, but these two are the prominent ones that I found. I'd do some research to see if they fit your lens if you are unsure.
Viltrox is a pretty good brand for budget focal reducers, but at only $80, I think you're going to get what you pay for; check the reviews, though. Metabones is basically *the* authority on focal reducers (speedboosters), and again, at $480 you will definitely get what you pay for in terms of quality.
But yeah, look at reviews for both (preferably look at footage from both if you are able to) so you can make an informed decision based on your needs.
Edit: Formatting
I got this one from Amazon. It works just fine with GH4 or GH5. Much less expensive than the Panasonic original.
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I didn't try out to walk around an object. But that should work if you use the joystick for movement. You can use the old app to set te joystick speed to 1deg/sec. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zhiyun.gimbal
I see that sounds pretty good although I can’t find the v2 on amazon. I saw a Neewer F100 that kind of sounds like a similar setup as to what you have.
https://www.amazon.com.be/dp/B01M7NRT39?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_EWG0PW6VNDWRZGNXTYCG
Possibly in the same level? Afraid that if I go with the f5 i’ve found that it’s a V1. Not sure if there’s a lot difference?
Is this one okay? SanDisk 128 GB Extreme Pro SDXC + RescuePRO Deluxe, tot 200 MB/s, UHS-I, klasse 10, U3, V30SANDISK 128 GB
I’m really confused with the 200mbps and the “write 90mbps” because in the camera it says 150 on 10bit
Buy this adaptor for m42 lens -micro 4/3
Then buy a lens like this: Asahi Pentax 50mm f/1.4 Super-TAKUMAR M42 Screw Mnt Lens
manual focus -- but you'll love the results
Now you're gonna have $300 bucks left over.
Take your time on deciding how to spend it
Sorry that I wasn't more specific. Here is one example of a speed booster, which creates a larger optical surface to capture light for the smaller MFT sensor. You'd then typically get a lens made for a larger sensor, such as a Canon EF lens, to achieve better low-light performance.
>3a USB
Are you referring to something like this?
I actually bought this and its otw, but was curious if this would work on a wall charger or even get power from my plugged-in laptop or desktop PC?
Sheesh. Given how pricey CFexpress is, I'd be inclined to just get something like this and velcro it to the camera somewhere (once the firmware supports it, of course).
Not sure, I haven’t tried that product. At under $20 it’s worth checking out especially since Amazon has a generous return policy. I have had great success with this product https://www.amazon.com/TreasLin-Capture-Passthrough-Streaming-Recording/dp/B097JQLW49/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=microbox+4k+hd+video+usb+3.0+capture&qid=1643678296&sr=8-17
Hope this info is helpful
amazon sells DSLR desk mounts, i'd try that way
maybe something like this
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/u/paulchauwn - I use these remote control pistol grips.
They are inexpensive and work great with my GH cameras, as seen here.
Hope this is helpful and good luck!
There are 2 main categories of LUTs: Technical and Creative.
The video files you record have only a set number of colors in them. How the camera maps what it sees to the much much smaller number of colors it can record determines what data it can keep, and what data gets “thrown away” (is too dark or too light to be seen in the recorded image)
When you shoot using a color profile like CineD or HLG, you are having the camera squish more of what it sees into the video’s limited pallet. This is why those profiles look “flat”. The camera has darks and lights squished closer together than our eyes expect them to be.
If you use a technical LUT to move your footage from the color space you shot in, like CineD, into the color space your computer and TV use to display “normal” images (which is rec709) the image will look correct. Because you recorded it in a squished way you didn’t have the camera throw away as much data, and now you can use that data as you adjust the corrected rec709 footage.
You want to use a technical LUT so your footage looks consistent and correct. You should not convert footage between different color profiles by hand. This is a mathematical operation.
Once you have your Rec709 version of the footage you can make other adjustments, and use the second type of luts - creative luts - to give to your footage a “look”.
Here is a free technical LUT you can use to turn your CineD into rec709:
https://groundcontrolcolor.com/products/free-cinelike-d-to-rec-709-lut
If you want to learn this stuff, a great place to start is with the free version of Davinci Resolve. They have good video tutorials about the program, including one on color and how to use luts, here: https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/training
I dont think that's an option right now. Your cam can only be detected by zoom or obs if you have a usb-hdmi dongl,e even a cheap one will work like this - https://www.amazon.com/BlueAVS-Capture-USB2-0-Camcorder-Extension/dp/B088HBRM7T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+capture+card&qid=1636462602&sr=8-3
it's 20bucks so if you get a dud it's not too hard to replace
I'm looking at getting a new camera for videography and the GH5 is one of the likely picks. Amazon currently has a kit that comes with a Leica (12-60mm, f/2.8-4), but someone on r/videography recommended a Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8. I likely won't be shooting in low light situations. Does anyone have any experience with either of these?
Thank you for the nice review/comparison - I have the BMPCC and the GH4 and this is really helpful in making the upgrade decision.
One thought - if you're having trouble with editing 10-bit with Premiere, you might want to check out the free public Beta of Blackmagic's new Resolve 14.
These are the exact ones I use for my M42 lenses, could try them: Pixco Lens Adapter Suit for M42 Lens to Canon EOS Camera (Black) 80D 1300D 1DX Mark [II/I] 760D 750D 5DS(R) 5D Mark III 5D Mark II https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0795D2X53/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JB9DBCVR8ZQVVJWQ6MT0
Yes it does, here is the one I’m using: K&F Concept M42 to EOS Lens Mount Adapter, Compatible with M42 Mount Lens and Compatible with Canon EF EF-S EOS Mount Cameras https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06W9PDYM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2GMAXYB2Y0EPZ64468DK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What do you mean “plain”?
Monoprice HDMI High Speed Cable - 1 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RONV5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8EWZPWF0NHYY4S2XAB2D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I use
That's a good point. I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/82mm-Variable-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B005CAHOHA considered cheap?
Hi. For the eye cup i don't know but for video i use something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Viewfinder-Magnification-Magnifier-Anti-reflective-Mirrorless/dp/B07RM5C81H/ref=mp_s_a_1_17_sspa?crid=5V8G40J7ZXBN&dchild=1&keywords=dslr+viewfinder&qid=1634420717&sprefix=dslr+vie&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1...
directly on the lcd screen..
I’ve used Lexar SD cards religiously for the past 4 years with my GH5, i’ve never had a single file lost or any worries with transfer speed, failures or the cards in general.
It’s £35 for a 128gb - 250MBS and £22 for a 64gb 250MBS
I just got a new HDMI cable for my monitor to my GH5. The Duttek that has been suggested is good, but it's a little short if you have an adjustable monitor and can pull the coiled cable tighter than you may like. (just depends on how far away your monitor is when mounted.
I got the Smallrig HDMI cable. It's SUPER thin and really flexible and wraps and routes really well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LYST3GK
I don't own this, I use a USB dummy battery, but here's an Amazon listing for a AC wall plug dummy battery for the GH5. Personally, I use a huge USB battery bank, but if you always have access to a plug...
One thing to note, you probably want to gaff tape the power cord (or extension cord) to the floor to reduce trip hazards and prevent accidentally pulling your camera over.
Your SD card is not fast enough. I have always used SanDisc Extreme Pro SDXC UHS-II Cards (300MB/s) and have never had a recording cut out on me at any resolution/bit rate/frame rate.
I suggest that you slightly change your approach and go with an AC plug-capable battery like Jackery.
https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Then use a dummy battery that plugs into the AC (wall power) like battery.
These portable powet packs are amazing for many other purposes (just last week, I was able to power a Zoom video conference with a laptop, full hdmi monitor, mic and gh5 outside).
I now have multiple Jackery batteries of different capacities and weights; and a solar panel for other emergencies.
Not sure about the GH5 but the G85 has an actual "Toy Effect" as a Creative Control option. Now if you like the look of that is entirely subjective. Additionally pick up a set of extension tubes to get macro shots with your current lenses. Depending on what/how you're shooting I'd think about a light box or at least some sort of lighting.
I use the Ronin-S with it and I got the DJI handle attached on the back of it. I have a few lenses for it, along with a speedbooster and the Sigma 18-35mm lens, and I've never had issues with weight. When I have the speedbooster and Sigma on it, it can be a little much but its never been an issue. I'd recommend the Ronin-S over the Zhiyun Crane 2/3. I had both and once I got the Ronin-S, I returned my Cranes. Also, DJI's app for the Ronin-S is so good compared to Zhiyun's. If you do get the Ronin-S, be sure to order a type C USB cable because it doesn't come with one.
I never appreciated the value of spending money on a tripod until I finally upgraded my own. It may be useful to you to know that I recently went from a Manfrotto BeFree Live to a Benro Mach3 Tripod S4 Carb 4 Sect XL, which is about £340. The difference in build quality and sturdiness is night and day and I think it's probably the best value for money tripod you can buy when you compare it to other really expensive brands such as Really Right Stuff, which can come close to £2,000. I realise this might be pushing your budget a bit, but you don't really need the XL version unless you need the extra height (which I've almost never needed). The non-XL version retails for about £300, but unfortunately for you it doesn't come with a fluid head or gear head.
I can tell you from experience though that smooth cinematic pans on my old Manfrotto BeFree Live (the one you're looking at) were virtually impossible. I don't need a fluid head these days as I mostly do architectural work (I use a gear head), so it's difficult for me to advise what you should get here, but a quick google search tells me that the Benro S6 has what you need, although I can't vouch for it personally.
All in you're looking at £500 for a great tripod setup (with a head) unless you're prepared to make some sacrifices. My advice to you is, given you're already prepared to spend up to £400 on a tripod and head, save a bit more until you have £500 and get the above.
As I've come to learn the hard way: buy cheap, pay twice.
Picked up this tripod, very affordable, great quality and smooth fluid head. Use it with my gh5 and moniter/shotgun
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I use the Ronin-S with it and I got the DJI handle attached on the back of it. I have a few lenses for it, along with a speedbooster and the Sigma 18-35mm lens, and I've never had issues with weight. When I have the speedbooster and Sigma on it, it can be a little much but its never been an issue. I'd recommend the Ronin-S over the Zhiyun Crane 2/3. I had both and once I got the Ronin-S, I returned my Cranes. Also, DJI's app for the Ronin-S is so good compared to Zhiyun's. If you do get the Ronin-S, be sure to order a type C USB cable because it doesn't come with one.
I got this:
Neewer Pro Camera Case Waterproof Shockproof Adjustable Padded Camera Backpack Bag with Anti-theft Combination Lock for DSLR,DJI Phantom 1 2 3 Professional Drone Tripods Flash Lens and Other Accessory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K3W4TW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5JCMCTJ5CWZE6SPTAXPF
After trying several bags, this one checked all the boxes that I was looking for. It has enough room to carry a 13” laptop, pockets up the wazoo, a full sized tripod and a couple smaller tripods, it has a TSA combination lock and opens from the back so you won’t get stuff taken out of it while you’re wearing it and you can’t inadvertently open it and have your stuff fall out. It also has a bellyband so you can swing it around while wearing it and get your gear out. It’s pretty thoughtfully made actually. It is kinda heavy, but it’s weighted nicely and I can wear it for quite awhile.
I use Samsung 860 Pro 1TB Sata 3.0 SSD’s with my Ninja V and haven’t had any issues. I considered the EVO but felt the PRO was a safe bet.
I checked my Amazon purchase history, this is the exact one I purchased:
SAMSUNG 860 PRO SSD 1TB - 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal Solid State Drive with MLC V-NAND Technology (MZ-76P1T0BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KCN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BPM808CABA4GGNXFJT2W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
yah it looks like you are supposed to have it attached horizontally. I also added:
I was thinking running one rod to the left so I can attach the Tilta and keeping the battery clear for switching out.
V30 is a no go, V60 will last a bit MAYBE depending on the brand. V90 is the best but I got these V60s and they handle it no problem. Instead of getting a Ninja and SSD I just got a bunch of 256gb cards. Yes they are pricey but you can film for 3+ straight hours with 2 of them at the 400mb ALL-i.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VY8KG3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6MVSV3XGB3V026R2PZFC?psc=1
check out one of these. use that to attach the viltrox to the cage and then just mount the rails and stuff under the bottom of the camera cage. the weight of the 18-35 shouldn't really be an issue but I understand wanting to be safe and using the support. also dont use the lens support to hold up the plastic hood
This is the only card I would recommend. I bought 6 of them. They have an extremely fast write rate so it can handle the high 400 All-i codec with no issues, as well as the 6k setting too. I opted for several of these vs the Atomos with an SSD.
Saw a dude on here that used this lens to shoot realty stills for a badass pad in hollywood owned by mark duplass. Hope this helps. I can't wait to buy this thing! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BR5N2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SCGKSRYA5TF1A9F1B8TM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I previously had a G7 with a USB-to-Dummy battery adapter. I basically just replaced the dummy battery, everything else is the same. If you wanna buy something ready out-of-the-box you can try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-DMW-DCC12-Battery-Adapter-DMC-GH3/dp/B077ZSBQQF/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=gh5+dummy&qid=1615276798&sr=8-4
From my experience, these kits tend to be a little bit picky on the powerbank side (the dumber the powerbank, the better)
Is this the correct lens you are referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-40-150mm-F4-0-5-6-Black-Cameras/dp/B0066J6EOU?th=1
Thanks for the answer.
If I get an an even cheaper card (Transcend 300S, 18€ for 128Gb, half the price, listed here on Amazon) with V30 written on it, then I shouldn't have any issue with it and no difference when recording one-hour takes or dumping the card on my backup drive, compared to the Sandisk I mentionned?
I like the Audio-Technica 6550. I've had one for a long time and it's solid, especially for the price. The two-pattern switch is especially useful for indoor/outdoor use.
That said, you won't get a true shotgun mic that is either small or inexpensive.
I use Boling RGB https://www.amazon.com/Mivitar-2500k-8500k-Applicable-Situation-Adjustable/dp/B07MBG3PP8
Very satisfied. Good CRI and RGB options
So far, everyone seems to have covered the major points. Just wanted to add, in my experience, the Atomos cables are way overpriced and often have issues. For this reason, I returned mine and got a standard braided one on Amazon for around $10 USD. Like others have mentioned, the cutting out for sure happens at 4k60p if your HDMI does not support it but if it still cuts out at 24p and you’re using an officially supported SSD (on Atomos’ website), then it’s likely the HDMI cable. If you end up looking for a new cable, just make sure it says it can support 4K signals at 60 hz and what not. Here’s the one I have and it works perfectly.
/u/jonybwoiij20 - here is one in stock at Amazon UK for £163 (with free delivery), as of this post.
Hope this is helpful and good luck!
That was the reason I picked up the Tamron 17-50 on Amazon for $160 used.
Here is the listing. They’re $299 “new”, and there’s one for $180 used - Tamron SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens with hood for Canon DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FZ3FY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1.vJCbZY8B56G
Glad I could help - they are available from Amazon Canada as well ($622.70CAD for the lavs and $139.99CAD for the recorder) [Referral Links].
Cheers and best of luck!
It doesn't come with any cable, and the Atomos coiled cable cost around $100!!
Here is the Amazon Basics 4K 60p HDMI cable. It works great and is pretty cheap.
I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YMPSSS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's probably not the best, but it's all i could find at the time. On my MacBook Pro it just worked.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XF4L4J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wfiCFbC3WF197
I've been using this Viltrox mount for 2+ yrs without issue including your lens, all with no issues. Not sure what happened in your case
Feelworld LUT7 is great. I know it's more than you want to spend but it's really good and worth it to have the extra features (touch controls, all the different kinds of waveforms, focus peaking, zebras, false color, loading custom luts).
If you're looking for specifically USB C, you're not gonna find it in this price range. There's some closer to $100, but these models are all USB 2.0 and max out at 1080p. They're great for Zoom, WFH, streaming, etc, but if you're looking to get the best quality, you're gonna have to up the budget a fair bit.
I can't say for the quality of this one, but this was the first thing Google came up with when searching "USB C capture card". Says it can do 4k30 or 1080p60 and the reviews look fine, but I've not tried or tested this product, nor have I watched any in-depth reviews.
I have that exact same setup and use this slim hdmi. It’s light enough where you can kind of wrap it around the camera to keep out of the way.
Monoprice 113580 Ultra Slim... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ROOBVI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I would not trust any glues, and i know glues. Drill hole and tap with threads if you know how to do this. only question is how deep does the metal go could ruin camera if you drill too deep. Simplest option is to just get one of the blackrapid straps that mounts in the tripod hole in bottom of camera like this https://www.amazon.com/BlackRapid-Breathe-Included-BLACKRAPID-Fastener/dp/B079YVZRCV/ref=rtpb_1/131-4697974-3337450?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B079YVZRCV&pd_rd_r=4ff5fe3a-db09-418e-b472-5bf88a82b2a4&pd_rd_w=TTBxz&pd_rd_wg=JU4SB&pf_...
A simple setup:
A grip arm for your light stand, and a clamp mount to hang the camera.
Just make sure your light stand is beefy enough to hold the camera weight.
If not invest in a proper C-stand and sand bags.
Thank you.
Like I said to the other guy, is this price normal?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Angelbird-SDXC-memory-card-black/dp/B074WCFKR4?th=1
I will shop around to see if I can find the best price.
> angelbird v90
Is this price normal for this? I was expecting it to be a bit under that. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Angelbird-SDXC-memory-card-black/dp/B074WCFKR4?th=1
I am not underestimating the importance of the memory card - it is a necessity, but fuck that is expensive for something which is not at all exciting.
Maybe I will go with the Samsung T5.
I would actually steer clear of a gimbal for actual run and gun work. They're cumbersome and take your hands off the camera, which is something you can't really afford to do with vintage lenses. Just get a really light, sturdy tripod that you can trow down anytime you're shooting an interview and shoot the rest handheld or on a monopod.
Also this light is bananas for the money. Cheap, soft light is hard to come by, and you can kind of light a whole interview really fast with just this light. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U
I have several vintage lenses. I have a Yashica 28mm. I bought this adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Minolta-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B003EAVULQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=4%2F3+adapter+minolta&qid=1597003157&sr=8-2) which the lens screws into. No need to take it off. My Helios came with a 4/3 adapter4/3 in place.
It's a camvate cage.
There are a good number of youtube reviews, and honestly for the work I'm doing, it's perfect for 84 dollars.
https://www.amazon.com/CAMVATE-Camera-Handle-Canon-Panasonnic/dp/B01BPVIROS
I have had great results with this Saramonic UwMIC9 Lav System. They also sell one with one lav transmitter and a wireless microphone, a lav transmitter and wireless XLR adapter to make any mic wireless, or just one lav transmitter.
I've used these for dozens of weddings with excellent results.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
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What about lenses? I'm currently getting Sony A6400 with Kit lens for $1000 approx in india. While GH5 is about $1450 in India and with Leica 12-60mm lens it's $1950. So I was thinking to just skip lens but one of the juser commented on Amazon that this Leica lens costs about $1000 in India is we buy alone so getting it with kit under $1950 is good deal.
Another guy suggested to just get https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00NN6J7IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XertFbZP09DKF
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B014RD6RC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xQrtFbCWH8K4P
For same cost .
That actually bumps the budget from $1000 to $2000. For GH5.
Technically this one. Picked it up in store about a year ago and it was on cheapo sale for like 65 or something. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07916BB66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwdrFbYEXY5YS
Honestly though I'd get the ones that are in the 150+ range on Amazon as this one isn't so happy depending on the location. I think lots of metal and brick walls make the image glitch once in a while. They will do for most sets. If you have the money just jump up to the industry standards ones instead, or offload it to a paying client by renting with your camera package.
I wouldn't use this for a major director, or even with someone not forgiving or just temperamental, or any project that's giving me union money. I'd just use a rental house one at that point. When working with normal folks though it's amazing to give them distance and not come waltzing through set.
But this has come in handy beyond belief. I also picked up the flattest cheapest 22" tv i could find, for under 100, without It's base and legs, attached it to a desk mount clamp, and use that as the monitor for crew and dirs. When I'm using a dolly or not moving the camera much i just string the 100 footer hdmi cable to it right from the splitter off the camera. I added hdmi splitters coming out of the receiver too, expecting to need it for dir/dp and one for second ad and set dec but never needed another monitor on that end as the screen was so big they didn't crowd each other.
So one thing to know is that this exact transmitter is like 1080 or whatever, but it works for shots on set, never needed the 4k on set. Helps find errors that the little monitor on camera and the 7" on camera can't. Saved my ass a bunch of times.
But honestly this was all to just mimic a union style set. Works. But the cheapness can show at the worst time. So be aware of how to solve things fast on set.
I bought mine second hand hence how I got it so cheap. But new on Amazon its still well priced. Here’s a link below :)
Panasonic H-H025E-K Aspherical LUMIX G Fixed Focal Mid Lens, Black (H-H025E-K) https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B014X35XLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDzlFb7GSR1W5
I got an El Gato HD60S to connect my GH5 to my PC. It works well, but it was a little fiddly at first. It is currently sold out at Amazon right now, too, but when it's in stock it's about $160.
I use a MeFoto travel tripod for mine. It sits on a table in front of me so just whatever can hold the camera works fine.
For an A/C adapter I just got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744J4M8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00
Good luck! It's hard to find capture cards right now, but once you get one it's pretty easy to get going.
When I first got an Atomos Ninja Inferno for my GH5 I experienced this with a generic HDMI cable. I bought 10+ cables from Amazon, tested them out and found that it was hit and miss among HDMI 2.1 cables. Some could carry the 4k 60 signal, and others couldn't. That was for recording though, for you just trying to monitor at 1080p the cable speed shouldn't be nearly as important, so I'm going with cable being broken at 60% most likely, damage, or debris in either HDMI port being the remaining 20% on each end.
Recording and monitoring I haven't had a miss with these guys, with the exception of damaging them:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ROO14U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Atomos brand cables are very well built and work great too, but holy mole they are expensive as hell.
What I can see on Amazon that's available right now looks sketch as hell – is this:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07KZQWX5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gRVGEbZ758VMS
going to work?
I would recommend the SD Card/Cheap Monitor combo. The monitor will be useful for composing your shot, checking your frame, and making sure things are in focus.
For SD Cards, the FreeTail Evoke Pro have worked really well for me and are usually very well priced (around $75), but are currently out of stock on Amazon. Not sure if you can get them elsewhere. Otherwise I have heard great things about the AngelBird cards, but they are more expensive.
I will say that Sandisk Extreme Pro "170MB/s" is not write speeds (note the little tiny asterisk on the card). That's basically read/transfer speeds in optimal conditions, and on top of that, 64gb at 4k, 10bit, 400mbps is gonna be about 20 minutes of recording at 24p. It will however handle 100mbps and 150mbps with little to no issues (I have 3 of those cards, albeit the 128gb version), and in my amateur opinion, 400mbps isn't necessary unless you're doing 10bit and color grading (it's more complicated than that, but I'm not the best at explaining). While you don't literally need a card that says V60 or V90 on it, the card does need to have a write speed of at least 50MB/s, it's just the easist way for them to let you know that on newer cards is with the V60/V90. Personally, I have four 128gb Lexar Professional cards and you can get a 2-pack of them for around $60 on Amazon. I've done a couple tests to make sure they keep up and seem to have no issues so far, but I won't be fully testing them until tomorrow.
I will also say that unless you're aching to spend another $100 and wait on your activation code to come by mail, try just playing around with the camera first. Try out Natural and Cinelike D and see how they perform for you before you upgrade.