What are /r/Leatherworking's favorite Products & Services?

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I'm not too proficient at pattern making, but I can offer a few tips with the edgework. First off, an edge groover will help make the lines straighter. Something like this is cheap and fairly easy enough to use, though eventually you'll want to upgrade:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BZS9PZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_1RX06ZQXBXZ053QRB5KH

Secondly, (also included in that Amazon item), always bevel your edges. That will reaaally help the burnishing smooth out. Then, apply some water with a sponge or just with your hands to the edges, then use your slicker, keeping the strokes going in one direction. For an added touch, you can use some of the liquid saddle soap solutions they make, apply that as well, and repeat the slicking process. Then, use beeswax and repeat. I usually put another coat of saddle soap for good measure.

Liquid Saddle soap:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OAZC74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BC5MH9GNZS5D9BMD8MRA

You only learn by making mistakes my dude. Dropping stich holes in thick leather is still the hardest thing for me. I ended up buying this press thing on Amazon that I can put my chisels in. It helps with keeping it straight. It also works good with stamps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBKGFBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_1A9J7ZZTP4K9R0GAP9S6

I haven't got a chance to try it out so I can't say how well it works, but there is this calculator someone posted to one of the leather subreddits.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=saddle.stitch.thread.length.calculator

One of these helped me. For thicker stuff you can use it to at least get the holes started. Stay away from the stitching chisel pliers, unless you can find quality ones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBKGFBW/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_BTPXYM8A19WSATB03PMA

Use garment double sided tape. It's perfect for zipper's. I use it exclusively when doing mine zipper's. Check this out at Amazon Aleene's Fabric Fusion Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005572IKS/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_Z76DQFCN1R1Q84BD11JN

Super easy pattern to build, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Z67NXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It just kills me knowing the stitch is ugly top left of first pic. I’ll do a little practice on that technique as I usually tie under leather on last stitch.

Edit: 12$ pattern😁

Imo groovers are a bad habit to get into from the start and there’s no need for any punches. Use a ruler to line up your awl holes and use your knife to skive with. If you get a Kiridashi knife it is cheap, sharp out the box and you can both cut and skive with it.

Just trying to save you some money until you’ve had some practice to see if it’s for you.

A few thoughts/suggestions:

1. Like /r/britafilterenjoyer, I advocate for Aquilim 315. After you attach the pieces, it can help to hammer down the sections you glued to further increase their bond. If you decide to do this, you need to use a cobbler's hammer or you can put a piece of scrap leather on top of the section in question and use a normal hammer to hammer it down.
2. The layers are separating because you are applying too much upward force to get your chisels out. As you use your chisels, they picks up debris. This is especially true if you are punching through section where you have glued. It helps to clean your chisels. It also helps to punch your punch into some paraffin wax (cheap and you can get on amazon, just make sure it's 100%) every few punches. It makes the punch glide in and out. Also, you can combine it with a Chisel Aid like the one I linked. This spreads out the pressure you are using into a wider leather area. If you decide to get the aid, be sure and line the bottom of it with leather so that you don't inadvertently indent your leather.

My family recently went to a Renaissance festival and had some low-grade costumes, but I would like to aim a little higher for next year. This is specifically for my son.

• Belt

  • Potentially I could go cheap/lazy on this, as a less noticeable part of the costume

• Sword should strap

  • While this Amazon product is meant as a belt, I imagine my pre-K son could use it as shown in the image

• Boots

  • Likely the trickiest part, but this guide seems easy, though that's part of why I am here...

So how much work might I be looking at for the boots, assuming I find some shoes like that guide has? And the leather looks pretty "tight" on those shoes...do you think they glued it on?

Also, would it be worthwhile to try to make the should strap sheath instead of buying? I am sure there are a lot of tools involved in making a basic leather product, but assuming this is going to become a new hobby for us and the tools will get a lot of use...

Not much, leather tools are quite expensive for decent quality, and a lot is down to preferences. For $20 and useful tool I would recommend rawhide hammer or mini marking gauge. Both have general use and specific use, and no need to upgrade in the future

Get a small press on amazon like this here. I lived on the top floor of a studio apartment after college and the people around me were going to flip a lid any day. I had build a 4x4 workbench and put foam under the feet to dampen the hammer blows traveling through the bench and into the floor. This wasn't enough and the so I eventually opted for a mini tool press. Anything I have to hammer goes on a steel plate that is on top of like a stack of compression foam.

Pretty much what everyone else said. Make sure to polish your chisels, coat them in beeswax, and use a puling board. This is what I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B099MJDL69/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you get something like this, since it's metal, adhere a piece of leather to it and use that side. If it's just the bare metal then it will indent your leather when you pull out.

I don't use a thick taper awl, I'm using these cheap ones from Harbor Freight. But always careful not to push to hard and tear the diamond. Tapping the threads flat with a mallet after stitching helps to get the shape defined.
I don't use chisels much anymore, (only when I'm really trying to hide the hole,) use mostly oval and round punches.
I like this brand of thread from Amazon, can be waxy, but lays flat and not too thick when dragging through holes.

amazon sells it

YaeCCC 12 Pcs Round Hollow Hole... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08BP9Q1VQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is what I got. I've used them on leather from both Amazon and a place called OA...really nice leather! Good for the price.

Thanks. For the picture slot, I just recycled and cut a piece from an old clear plastic envelope. It works well enough for personal projects like mine. Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Plastic-Envelope-Bags-A7/dp/B004O2ERF4

^ what they said. I use the inexpensive Tandy groover all the time and it works great. If there isn't a Tandy near you, or if this would be more convenient:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038HQM0E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5WT4BDM2HDV2JZSMJNXT

Get groovin

So this is what I found so far. 60 bucks is not bad

HHIP 8600-0031 Heavy Duty Arbor Press, .5 Ton Capacity, 10" Height (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NFKP8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_A0GE5C72ZPDYBBSG7XG4

That's an awl with a hook, they're doing a baseball type stitch. You can do similar without the hook, the tool makes it easier to thread the holes without distorting the leather or hole to much, as with a needle you really torque the angle because of the length.
Here is a quick Amazon result, I'm in no way recommending this particular set, I always read 1* reviews before making any purchases. https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Leather-Sewing-Thimble-Handmade/dp/B08DXHMFL8

The conditioner is definitely the key factored, before I started leather working I would clean all my leather gear with warm water and dust free cloth, then condition it. Didn't hurt the items but definitely get a healthier feel when you use both Here are two options I've used and loved, there are plenty on Amazon though in the $10-15 range

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002X520S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WRHA3KA1JV3ASKK66XBH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9KQSGS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5JPN7BZY2GEPM2D610MW

I tried an awl, and never really got the use of it once I picked up the 'Stitching Chisel Set'.

I never cared for the Fiebings white glue, and just use Elmers contact cement now.

Your bevelers are two different use tools. #1 is for helping round off edges, and #2 is more for skiving and removing material. I have only one of #2 and two of #1.

I am not certain if you need 'finisher' unless you plan on using acrylic paints. Even with that I just tankote or resolene.

I only have the round burnisher and it works great.

I would recommend a strop and rouge to sharpen your swivel knife.

ex: https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Jewelers-Buffing-Compound/dp/B00IHS3YEQ

With all of that you could check out the 'leather starter kits' on amazon and weigh the pros/cons of the price for all their stuff vs individual.

The only other suggestions would be:

• cutting mat

• cheap poly cutting board (for veggies, etc) to handle when you hammering in chisels.

• hard surface for both to sit on.. like a granite cutting board or something.

I have one of these , but I think I bought it from a local supplier. It works fine. No complaints, and it doesn't have an exposed blade so I can toss it in my bag without worries.

From what I've seen online, it's going for about $50. I'd say it's a hard pass at that price point. It's missing a lot of necessary tools that you'll need if you want to continue leather crafting. And I don't think you'll get a realistic experience with everything being already cut and punched.

Here's one I found on Amazon that has a bit of everything you need to start. tool kit Granted, you'll need to buy some leather.

If you continue with the craft you'll soon learn that the quality of tools and leather make a huge difference in the quality of your final product. Keep learning and researching other crafters on youtube. Absorb as much as you can. I've been at it for almost 2 years and just got to a point where I'm truly satisfied with my end product. Best of luck to you.

Sno seal, or Obenaufs LP works as as well. You can also melt Bee's wax into the leather if it is suede or roughout.

No, the design is from a battle scene in this book I bought off amazon link

Fair enough. The far walk around the bush would be looking at making your own. Hanger straps can be snipped to size, or just a flat sheet of aluminum can be cut to length with a dremel and holes drilled also with a dremel.

https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-524-1022PK2-10-Feet-22-Gauge/dp/B00745VXN2/

https://www.amazon.com/Beadthoven-Rolls-Aluminum-Jewelry-Making/dp/B0869CJSG6/

something like this would work, then? CP 4-5 oz Leather Hide - Vegetable Tanned Tooling Leather - Cowhide Leather Sheet 1.6-2.0mm (8" x 8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X7FGVDC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VBBPBDENFFVGRQ1C0EFV?psc=1

This is close. I searched “steel strap mountable d ring”

4 Pack Heavy Duty Saddle Repair 3/4" Clip & Dee 5/8" D-Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719S7JN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YDFSMPD85Y7RT01JVARB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, it’s hard to know until I see it. I did see this desk mat on Amazon that has good reviews and it is 2mm. It shouldn’t be far off from what I have coming

Desk Mat

Saddle soap is for cleaning the leather without massively drying it out. However, you will definitely need to condition after or your leather will be really dry and potentially crack.

If you’re up for a little DIY, here’s a link to a simple recipe to make your own: https://www.humblebeeandme.com/homemade-leather-balm/

I keep a jar of this on hand, fieblings is a fairly reputable brand: Fiebing's Golden Mink Oil Paste, 6 oz. - Soften, Preserves and Waterproofs Leather and Vinyl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHQ42Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_91ASANT5NMJSMMC14MPH

IIRC the general consensus was these won't work well since there is no variable speed on them.

For a bit more you can snag one of these guys Leather Polishing Burnishing Machine Leather Edge Grinding Machine 110V 0-8000RPM without Flexible Shaft Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB51W4X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WM1PMJGSG217ZP1RC1W8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Same ones Tandy sells with a Diff badge/color. Had mine for about a year and 0 issues so far with fairly consistent usage.

if that is smooth leather (not suede), those boots desperately to be oiled. get some mink oil paste or liquid leather conditioner. it will help with scratches, water resistance, & all around longevity of your boots.

I’d recommend getting some stitching chisels if you can. These ones on Amazon aren’t the best but they’re working for me. Corter Leather is a pretty good resource for learning how to make stuff with fairly basic tools

https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=pronghorn+antelope+leather&fr=yfp-t&ei=UTF-8&fp=1 The thing is you need to look up the regulations for your state about selling natural resources. Here in California it's illegal for anyone other than natives to make for sale things out of any harvested animal or any part of said animal. You can't sell antlers, hide, feathers, anything. Odds are it's probably that way where you live too. Making them for personal use is one thing but for sale is another. Plus do you know how to tan leather?

Well it will reduce slippage cause it will grip better than the smooth top-grain. But I don't think that flesh-side will ever stop shedding, it looks to be really soft. You can try burnishing to smooth it, plain water or better a leather conditioner and a smooth thick piece of glass (like a heavy vase) can work, but moisture will eventually fluff it again. If you wanted to spend money, they make glass specifically for burnishing and use Tokonole for better results.
https://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Glass-Slicker-Burnishing-Leather/dp/B004JAOB2K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=leather+glass+burnisher&qid=1637338414&sr=8-2

How thin are you wanting? 2-3oz is plenty thin and can be found on any online leather retailer. Weaver, Tandy, Springfield Leather, Maverick Leather, The Buckle Guy, to name a few.

Sewing machines are a rabbit hole and it depends on what you need. I would check out https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/

Lots of people asking questions and getting very detailed questions on those forums. Expect to pay for a machine as there are really no leather sewing machines for cheap EXCEPT for the Chinese shoe patcher which is almost it's own project just to get working. I have one and once you figure it out it's not bad and beats hand stitching everything. They have their own Facebook group with tips and advice on getting it just right.

KEKEROSS Manual Leather Sewing Machine Hand Shoe Cobbler Stitching Repair Mending Machine Patcher Dual Cotton Nylon Line Sewing Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6KN698/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_39BGPCZ80NKXJY230SGX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ah, good to know. I think you could still get a small starter kit for that budget. Maybe stuff like these?

• https://www.amazon.nl/ETEPON-gereedschapsset-handgereedschap-handwerk-handnaaien/dp/B07MYZ41ML/
• https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B07XZ3VTNP/

You can try a cheap press. I have this model and it works really well for the thicker stuff.

Leather Hole Puncher Hand Punching Machine Manual Press Puncher Punch Tools for DIY Leather Craft Punching Holes (with Chuck, PP Plate and Aluminum plate) (Style D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBKGFBW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Y9DG66SC53870GEM0NEV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can also try to punch one or two pieces before gluing them together. This way, when you put them together, the existing holes act as a guide when punching the last layer.

There are different sizes of punching forks, from 6mm to 2mm of separation among them, take a look to this item in amazon, from here you can look up for one with the suitable size amazon

I just bought this fossil wallet a few days ago at an official fossil retail store. It looked really nice in my opinion and I just immediately liked it. However after looking at pictures of the same wallet online the cracks on the card holder and the wrinkles on the wallet look rather severe on mine. Is this normal? It's a vegetable tanned top grain leather wallet according to fossil. Amazon link for reference pics. https://www.amazon.sg/Fossil-Leather-Blocking-International-Combination/dp/B081R16H8W

The method I have found the easiest is using an arbor press. I have one with a chuck that can hold my stitching chisels. Using a press will just ensure everything stays square. Plus, I find it easier to use and it works great for setting rivets.

This is the one I have and it’s worked well so far:

Leather Hole Puncher Hand Punching Machine Manual Press Puncher Punch Tools for DIY Leather Craft Punching Holes (with Chuck, PP Plate and Aluminum plate) (Style D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBKGFBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZB8MHSSACYKECNY5A189

I struggle with it too. I have switched to using a drill press. The dremel one is really cheap. Dremel Drill Press Rotary Tool Workstation Stand with Wrench- 220-01- Mini Portable Drill Press- Tool Holder- 2 Inch Drill Depth- Ideal for Drilling Perpendicular and Angled Holes- Table Top Drill , Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068P48O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F43R0MHY80RNYVDVEM2F

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082V8VWWG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this for the edge bevelers but i use the skiving knife a lot too. Other that the standard polishing with the paste. Never had to shapen it and never got a roll.

So I make all of my own patterns. When I started I watched some videos and what not but what I found that works best for me is taking the measurement of the object like a credit card. And basically adding 1/2 inch if you're in the US I'm not sure what it measures out to in metric. basically what that does is gives you 1/4 inch on each side and I like to split the difference and use 1/8 inch for my stitching line. For burnishing the tips mentioned before are super good! Give them a try if you are able to tokenole helps a lot too! https://www.amazon.com/Seiwa-Tokonole-Leather-Burnishing-Leathercraft/dp/B017X8GL9A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2E9Y6F1T8243R&dchild=1&keywords=tokenole&qid=1620523188&sprefix=tolkanole%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-1 you can also get canvas or a wooden slicker to help with the edges as well! Check out stock and barrels burnishing videos!

Also don't be too hard on your self that came out great and carry it with pride!

Very helpful.

If you are interested in a thicker straight edge, I really like this one.

It's a gorget. It's French. You put it around your neck for protection. The straps are for pauldrons (shoulder armor). Here's a steel one for reference.

https://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Spaulders-Shoulder-Crusader-Pauldrons/dp/B07X8J1TWF

I wonder if double sided tape would do, I’m trying out one I found on Amazon it’s called scor tape. I used it tonight while building card pockets in another roper wallet I’m doing, seems to work better than the 1/4” double sided from weaver and Tandy. Really sticky. 2 pack for $11.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZWSTWN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like this Miusie thread, good thickness, it's lightly waxed and holds tension, sometimes does need a light buff with terry-cloth to get wax flakes off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPNK5NL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have diamond shaped punches and I punched through 9oz saddle leather and through buckskin backing on the other side no problem. You can make whatever sized hole you want to, the awl is to make the hole big enough to get your saddle needle through. It will shrink somewhat back to the original size of the hole. This set works really well for me

Tandy Irons

Youtube and an inexpensive kit like this https://www.amazon.com/OWDEN-Pieces-Leather-%EF%BC%8CLeathter-Sewing/dp/B07PFR794P?ref_=ast_sto_dp Look for a local Tandy for scrap leather to practice with.

I wouldn't recommend olive oil as it rubs off. Unfortunately I don't know of some "natural" solution for this. I use, Resolene or Leather Balm with Atom Wax

Chuck has a nice scabbard tutorial video. I ask because a beginner kit can be great if you don't know what you want to make and just want to dip a toe into various small projects and see what you like. However if you know what projects you are going after and there are certain tools you know you are going to need and others you know you will not.

If you want a more buy once cry once tool specific route. Self healing cutting mat, ruler (preferably slightly raised to protect ones fingers), folding box cutter, rotary cutter (olfa rotary cutter), good quality edge beveler, tokonole (if your making holsters and scabbards your leather selections should be able to benefit from this if you have any exposed edges), edge slicker, nylon/nonmetal hammer, some leather needles, and thread.

Here is something from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QX3VDYV/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_glc_fabc_AC75FbQNVKR7D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It has the basic tools, show us your projects. I hope this helps.

( just an example : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DL6HBH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FDjJFb1QVHS11) This is what you can get for punching holes in a bit more efficient way. To hold the pattern in place you can test if using tape on your leather would leave marks. You can cut a few holes in the middle of your pattern and use tape on top of the holes onto the leather to hold the pattern in place while cuting. What i normally would do is use an awl to trace the the outline on veg tan leather or a fabric marker on chrome or oil tan. For the holes to punch you can trace them as well or you can use camposs to draw lines. Using scissors is not very ideal because they squeeze down the leather and make the edge not sharp or clean. You can use box knife, leather knife or crafter knife with cutting mat. To make "professional looking" projects you need a lot a lot of experience not so much of fancy tools. But to begin with I suggest you to get better tools for cuting which is about $20 to $30. It would be nice to get some glue but optional which is about $10 (E6000 is a good starter but Barge cement (big yellow one $30) is my favorite.) For sewing I suppose you have everything you need except a lighter. To finish the edge which could be optional you need at least edge finisher, edge beveler and/or sandpaper and edge burnisher which is about $40. For rivets and other hardware you can get pliers but it's not much cheaper. I don't know what's your bouget but leather working is pretty expensive to start for getting tools that would last for a good long time.

Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
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Just one of these, I think that’s similarish to what you have!

That’s awesome, I can’t wait to see the finished product! Will you post how it turns out?

If you want to DIY you can burn leather by hand with a hot iron like this: https://www.amazon.com/STAGE-Wood-Leather-Pyrography-Pen/dp/B01945KAOC

Otherwise...

+1 for laser etching. This is the perfect application for that tool. You might want to measure the placement and get some idea of how big the monkey head should be, and where it should appear on the wallet.

Let's say you don't know anyone with a laser engraver who has engraved leather before. Write to your local makerspace. You might want to look up the right settings for leather, and then practice a few small test spots on the inside so can calibrate the right power (so you don't ruin the design). You only get 1 shot at that so preparing with measurements and practice on the inside will make your life easier. You can do the practice by adding your initials to the inside or some other design that can be done quickly, to get an idea of how much power should be used.

Have fun and maybe show us the result when you are done!!

Also you can get your phone, your laptop, or anything burned with a laser, so maybe while you are at it you can customize some other things, too.

I'm wondering if it'd be possible to remove the pockets from this phone case: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00RIZWRRO

I have been using it for a few week and this phone case is the best case I have ever owned. It is aging very very well.

Even though the pockets aren't exactly in the way, it still bothers me since I never use it.

Being it's an oily leather it tends to wipe on the phone screen and it gets the screen oily like greasy fingertips so I have to clean it more often than I like to admit.

At the very least I'd liek to remove the front facing pockets but wouldn't mind keeping the inner pocket. If they all have to go then that'd be fine.

I'd be willing to pay someone to cut it off and resew it and make it look all nice and sexy if it's not too expensive. I sharpen knives with a pimped out Wicked Edge system and make cables for audio (specifically headphones). I'm good with a soldering iron as well. Maybe we can exchange some work done.

Thanks in advance.

Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules by posting this. :)

In case you didn't know, you can get a torso form for really cheap on amazon. Makes it a lot easier to take good pictures of torso armor.