That's obviously your grandfather's ghost ...
Actually, since the same white spots show up in the same places in this photo https://www.flickr.com/photos/66050659@N05/8094249895/ as they do in the photo you posted above, I'd say notbythehairofmychyn is correct and that you have small holes in the cloth of your shutter -- maybe even an old patch that's coming off.
You can open the back and shine a flashlight in the front to see the holes. Look with both the camera cocked and uncocked because there's two shutter curtains.
You can cut down the incidences of the dots until you get it fixed if you keep the camera pointed down when you're in between photos and don't shoot into the sun.
Hopefully when the dots are gone, your grandfather's soul will finally be at rest.
No seriously, it's a fake. Early FED or Zorki hacked to look like a Leica. Street value $30, but if you want you can make it even faker for kicks.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017TYF3WO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stumbled across this while perusing Amazon for UV filters. These Tarion grips usually sell for between $60-100 USD on eBay and some other sites. Even on Amazon USA right now it's $55.
Some random fire sale or pricing error means these are only $9 for some reason in Canada.
I decided to receive mine first before sharing the link.
The grip is solidly made, it has an aluminum base and a mahogany handle. Since it's third party it doesn't act as a baseplate unfortunately so it does make your camera taller.
One issue with it is since it doesn't hook onto the baseplate tab, or have any additional tab on its front left side, you can technically loosen/move the entire plate/grip by just accidentally pushing on it edgewise. This means that if you're not careful you can bump it and the whole grip shifts, and consequently the handscrew that goes into the tripod mount also loosens.
This is not that big of an issue as long as you just keep holding the camera via the grip, but it's worth pointing out.
I have the official Leica M 240 grip on its way as well which I imagine I will probably use instead, but for $9 you really can't beat this thing. It looks the business with my burlwood soft release too.
Il n'est pas trop difficile comme langue. Bien plus simple que Japonais! Avez-vous essayez Duolingo?
But the Google translate is legible. When it fails to translate the word "cache", it means to store, or to hide. So, preeeeetty sure they're referring to caps. Comes with a leather case, though! Optically sound, little dusty.
just get the Sandisk version - they're solid and reliable. I was using Lexar 1667x on mine as they're highly recommended.
Yes, the original. But I ordered this one and it just came! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDJSJ5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got this Billingham Hadley insert
I use this camera insert (size 35). Fits my M10 with a lens perfectly fine with a small space for another lens or accessory in my sling bag.
I used (still use a black one on my M6 now) a Panasonic PE-20ST on my M4 when I had it. Had to plug it into the back. They look good on an M4 too! Great little flash.
Has anyone tried this? Says it works with Leica:
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One possible solution if you’re feeling crafty would be to get a label holder along the lines of these or similar (you get the idea though), and trim the leather on the back to accommodate it. You now have a film memo holder that can easily be removed if you ever choose to re-cover the camera, and a practical upgrade in the interim. Another idea would be a nice little engraved name plate that you could contact cement to the back with your name or monogram on it… just a thought!
I use a dog collar AirTag holder and put it on my black leather strap. Very discreet.
If you want something more rigid than just the tape, here's a good option. 36mm round watch screen protector on Amazon. You can put the scotch tape on the lens side of this and rest it on the film rails to check focus. The trick is, you need a microscope, loupe, or something similar to magnify the image to the point where you can actually judge focus. I did not have such a device so, I got a roll of HP5 for cheap and I'm going for it.
Yasuhara's memoirs (in Japanese) would be the definitive source.
If you mean replacement, than ask Leica. If you want to retrofit that to another camera, then it probably needs a hole in a top plate. What you can do is to add a leather protection pad to your strap.
Do you have a camera with a single pin shoe? If so, try it on that. Assuming that works, then the problem is that you're using a TTL flash and an incompatible TTL camera and the fact that they don't speak each others language is crashing the flash.
In which case the solution is a shim to stop the TTL pins touching each other, (something like this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G47I7O).
VKO Wood Soft Shutter Release Button Compatible with Fujifilm X-T30 X-T3 X100F X-T20 X-PRO2 X30 X100T X100S X-E3 Pen-F M8 M9 M10 Camera 12mm Concave Surface Golden Black 1 PCS (Wood Grain Random) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073CBSSFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M447QXJ5CP8EJ3AKTV9G
Funnily enough I solved my phone's issue originally by using my laptop charger to diagnose issues with my 30 other chargers I have laying around. I ended up going for this
If that's the case it's appalling.
At the very bare minimum it should be able to trickle-charge on 11W, since that's what most powerbanks and car adapters put out.
You shouldn't need a bloody laptop charger. That said, I would be interested how well this sucker charges it. We use a lot of these at work because they're cheap, named-brand, 65W universal chargers. Phones, computers, macbooks, MPP pens, Raspberry Pi's...)
I buy mine on Amazon! They’re only $20 CAD, I buy 3 at a time cause I tend to sell them with my cameras 😆 this is my specific one: VKO Wood Soft Shutter Release Button Compatible with Fujifilm X-T30 X-T3 X100F X-T20 X-PRO2 X30 X100T X100S X-E3 Pen-F M8 M9 M10 Camera 12mm Concave Surface Golden Black 1 PCS (Wood Grain Random) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073CBSSFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1T79SGAPVATPQAHP6BSZ
I see, thank you! The one I was looking at on Amazon (this one) says it works with 28-90mm framelines which is fine as it's a 28mm lens.
So are LTM and M39 the same? This is what was confusing me, as some sites seem to use the name interchangeably, and I cannot seem to find such thing as an LTM to M adapter, only M39 to M ?
As I say I'm only just diving into the Leica mount system so this is all new to me!
Also, with a Leica, you don't need a big insert.
I have my M10 with 35mm summicron and 50mm APO. Camera insert does work very well and I can use it from my backpack to sling within seconds.
My plan was to just remove all of the white infill from the camera. All of the white is gone from the Leicavit, too. I felt the red of the flash sync balanced the two dots fairly well. Someday that film counter will be black but I'm waiting for the camera to break before diving into that one.
Here's a link to the product I used. I'm subdued light it's a perfect match. In bright, direct sunlight it washes out a bit and reads ever so slightly pinkish.
Lacquer-Stik Paintstick, Red -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BXJ91A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just bought bead from amazon and cut them in half, works great...
While I love black (my M9 Monochrome is silvering beautifully!), there's something ultra-classic about Silver Chrome that I can't resist. It just fits the fun, take everywhere, shoot in the sun vibe that I want for my color Leica! That classic vintage look is really completed with a matching silver chrome lens like the new 28mm Ultron ASPH II.
I think it patinas super nicely as well - my old, battle-hardened M3 has these subtle brass/gold hits along the edges that I think are much more subtle and elegant compared to old brass-painted camera. Blasphemous, I know, but just my personal preference.
Replacing the red dot was fairly easy. I bought this pack of aluminum stamping blanks as a replacement. They are too large and thick still, so I had to grind them down with a file, but the result is super nice! Extremely subtle and a nice middle ground between glossy and matte.
To make things even simpler, you can get one of those euro 2-pin to IEC C7 right angle plug thingies :) for the charger... one less power cord to pack.
For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OGXYAY/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_YHFBRKC1FE66E8ST0XCR
Thank you! I had ordered these: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08HXVCR1R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've had them since my M10 and the've already brassed quite nicely and they are also black paint on brass, so fit even better to my Black Paint :)
Sadly not available at the moment :(
So I know this isn't a fancy pricey bag but works for me. I have a M2 with a 35 and 50 and it fits all those and film 👍. Bag is very sturdy for it's price.
Camera Bag, SLR DSLR Waterproof Canvas Camera Case, Vintage Padded Shoulder Bag for Women and Men (Army Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093DB3887/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_686C189TN6X26N9CP1SX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> I'm packed and ready for the burning stake
Don't sweat it, we're cool.
> but it's unyielding in its enormity
I can understand that, since my first 35 was the Elmar. But after my 75 Heliar and 135 Elmar, it wouldn't be so bad. Not to mention the Nikon 70-200 F2.8ED
> that mirror finish rim caught attention from down the street. If it didn't have The Light of Elendil on the end of it, I might have kept it.
Eärendil, but I know what you mean. I don't think there's a person alive outside of Cosina's design team who thinks that was a good idea. First thing I would do is put a filter and sensible hood on it. And as I said - for me I would only buy it as part of The God Kit. It wouldn't be my jam by itself.
Worst bit is the Sony one doesn't have the stupid ring! Why do we get stuck with it!?
This worked well for me
Neewer Rubber-Coated Metal Camera Lens Filter Remover Wrench Set Kit(Package of Two), Fit 49mm,52mm,55mm Lens Thread for Canon,Nikon,Sony,Pentax,Fujif https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018I84358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wijvogsYg4Ou8
You can pick up something like this -
Light carbon fiber build and most importantly inexpensive.
I might be a bit late but I purchased this one and love it so far, also some good colour options. I personally got the black one. One feature I like is there’s a leather flap that protects the camera from the metal key ring.
This is the one to buy, on par with the high end ones and only $16.99. Went through a couple of cheap crap ones to find this, and it’s been rock solid for a couple of years.
It's this soft cotton strap I found on Amazon. Been using it for a year or so, held up fine. And for $10, can't complain. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKG6KQT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's exactly it! It's a good inexpensive lens, and I think where most people get disappointed is in thinking it's a modern optical formula and will perform as such. If you come at it understanding sonnars (and enjoy them) it's well worth the price of admission IMO. I picked mine up for $180 used and regret nothing.
I will say it does sharpen up nicely by f5.6 but you do lose a bit of that sonnar glow (combination of modern coatings and being a wide sonnar IMO). It's sharp in the center at all apertures, and wide open bokeh is decent enough but let's be honest wides aren't the realm of bokeh monsters typically. I wound up getting a Fotasy lens hood for not much and it helps with flare (bonus the vents line up with the VF on mine).
*E: I would also consider LTM options like the Canon 35/2, the only problem is no focusing tab with that one but it's excellent.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plug.photo.shutter_speed
If you have iPhone just Google for something like that. Not as accurate as a professional tool, but can satisfy this curiosity...
To further the comment on shutter speeds, there are apps to help test (low) shutter speeds for accuracy. They use the microphone to record the shutter sound, and you then pick the opening and closing on a timeline of the waveform, and it calculates the shutter speed. It's useful up to about 1/50 or maybe 1/125th if you're in a quiet place and have the back and bottom plate open. This is the one I've used on Android Link
Haoge 43mm Square Metal Screw-in Lens Hood for Voigtlander Nokton Classic 35mm f1.4 40mm f/1.4 MC SC VM, Carl Zeiss Biogon T ZM 35mm f2.8 35mm f2, Leica X Typ 113,Leica X Vario Type 107 Lens Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K5LQX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S3DlFbSN9F38D
There are a few different 3D printed square hoods being sold for the Voigtländer Nokton 35/1.4 which apparently share the same bayonet as the Zeiss ZM 50mm lenses. (Shapeways) (Metal option)
My dad passed me down his "Leica Manual" which is like the Bible for them.
It has 500+ pages of historical, technical, artistic, tons of shots. Great coffee table book. Looks like it's available here on amazon, used: https://www.amazon.com/Leica-Manual-Complete-Book-Photography/dp/0871000032
It’s this one I grabbed off amazon:
Eorefo Camera Strap Vintage 100cm Nylon Climbing Rope Camera Neck Shoulder Strap for Micro Single and DSLR Camera,Black. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081LYCC4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3dLyEbV7PXQFF
I like it a lot. It’s comfy and didn’t cost a lot. It was on my Fuji X Pro 1. I’d like to make a leather strap for it.
Can you expand on what the issue was and what exactly you did? Also can you specify what you purchased? Searching amazon for a "pen eraser" brings up a pencil eraser like this.
My M6 has an issue where it's shorting out batteries it seems like and all the lightmeter will report is "underexposed" no matter what. Is this similar to what you experienced?
I got a full metal one on amazon for around $10 CAD
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06W5DG36W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can check the slower shutter speeds easily using an app on your phone, or audacity on a PC or Mac. I have used this app on android and there are similar ones on iOS. I can measure up to about 1/125 on the app, but if you use audacity on a PC you can measure to slightly higher speeds.
Rangefinder calibration is also very easy on the M3. There's a screw on the rangefinder roller cam, which you turn to move the rangefinder alignment left and right. There's another under the screw on the front of the camera, which you remove, and behind that is the vertical adjustment. It's not too hard to align, just check the focus is correct at ~1m and infinity.
Get a right angle screw driver for the horizontal adjustment, and a very narrow screwdriver tip (like for smartphone repair) for the vertical adjustment
Here's a link for more info http://leica.nemeng.com/034b.shtml
I would really recommend doing all this before you consider sending it for a CLA, because theres a very good chance the CLA would effectively be a waste of money
Edit: People on here and other Leica forums are really over keen on CLAs. Some people suggest getting one like every three years, which is really dumb. If the camera is optically clean, runs smooth and exposes correctly a CLA is basically just a vanity project and a waste of money
You know, Leica-mount step up rings have existed since the mid 1930's. You don't need this.
Going to be honest, for the price of a new Elpro (when they're back in stock), you could get a mount adapter and a good vintage actual macro lens from a third party like Nikon or Canon- which would likely still have better quality than Leica's fancy version of this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004E54LBQ/
Since you're using an SL, it seems odd to not take advantage of it's wider compatibility.
Thanks!
I'm using sandisk cards, they seem to be fine, I also picked up a 16gb card from Duane Reade that has no issues, I shoot slow anyway, the times I have shot "rapidly", anything more than 5 bursts the camera would buffer and time out till it was done writing. I haven't had any banding issues though I never looked into what the cause for that was, just something I heard about in passing.
Yeah I'm a recent leica convert in the last couple years, I have a nice lens selection for M's, so digital was inevitable. Last real digital camera was a canon 5dii that I bought new in 2010, sold that off just last year, got a used sony, wasn't my thing, onwards and upwards to leica digital. I wasn't interested in the M9 though, I wanted the monochrom, I think I did ok, very happy with it and I bet you will be too.
I haven't found anything better than this for my Nikon bodies. It's awesome.
Not sure if it'd be too industrial for a leica though.
If I'm only carrying one extra lens, which is the case 99% of the time I put in in a pocket of the backpack and I'm ready to go. If you want to carry a lot more stuff and keep it organized/safe I would recommend one of these, I don't own this particular model but a similar one and it fits perfectly inside my backpack
You could use a camera wrap. It's basically a fleece-like thing with velcro pads to hold the folds in place. Handy if you don't want to just use a towel and have it unravel in your backpack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XHRWBPU?psc=1
I guess he means „Shutter-Speed“ by Lukas Fritz https://appsto.re/de/eA0yH.i . Works by recording the shutter sounds, does not work well at very high shutter speeds since its hard to distinguish opening /closing of the shutter.
There is an android version as well https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plug.photo.shutter_speed