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As u/coogie mentioned you're hitting the lower limit.
But also a couple other things that can make a difference and help.
- Actually determine the 'hot' wire when connecting w/a voltage detector. This can make a difference. Nothing fancy. This would do the trick just fine. Having wires switched w/Caseta can cause issues.
- If using LED lights, using the Lutron capacitorwill also help. If in doubt, just give their support a call (they're AMAZING!!--seriously) and they'll help you get the one you need--you will need to pay for it, however. Usually less than $10 all in.
- If it's a fixture that has, say, 5 or 6 bulbs and you're using LED bulbs and visually won't make much different between LED and incandescent, replace one LED with an incandescent and you can cheat your load on the system.
Good luck!
You could always get spacers like this. We use these all the time and they work wonders. You can stack as many as you need. Or
Just make sure your screws are long enough to match. Perhaps pick up an electricians screw kit at Home Depot or something.
120v to Caseta dimmer -> 120v wire to light location -> 120v to 12v dimmable driver -> any 12v dimmable led strip lights https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SPJPBN5 Or 120v to Caseta dimmer in central location -> 120v to 12v driver in central location -> 12v wire to light location. Add pico remote paired to dimmer in convenient location
I ended up with a 40A model: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753ZGST4 That should be sufficient derating to allow using it with my pump.
It's out of stock at this point, but I am sure you can find something similar.
WOW! I didn't know about these! So they get warmer the dimmer they get? I found the only 150W equivalent bulb in the compatibility list, and it's one of these. Unavailable at Home Depot, but an Amazon search result turns up this. Does that look right? The original part number from the Lutron list turns up this exact unit on the Home Depot website, per Lutron's note of the Home Depot internet SKU.
As others have said, it's most likely low voltage triggering the starter. I have 3 of these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086776933/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) serving as relays from RA2 appliance modules to automate my fireplaces. Don't see any reason why you couldn't do this with a Caseta lamp dimmer (configured to be in switching mode) or a Caseta outdoor plug. Running from a wall switch might be a little more involved installation-wise.
Regarding safety and reliability, remember the Lutron component is the potential point of failure here, not the random relay from Amazon (it can't do anything bad if the appliance module isn't feeding it 120V). In my mind, there are also some added safety benefits with this setup of being able automate turning off after a certain amount of time or at certain times of day or ensuring they're all off with a button press or voice command when leaving the house. Still often shut my gas valves when leaving for multiple days, but that may just be good practice anyway.
Lutron Pico Smart Remote Control for Caséta Smart Dimmer Switch | PJ2-3BRL-WH-L01R | White for $9.95 on Amazon.
Thanks everyone! Today I re-wired everything one-by-one in hopes that I missed something the first time around, but unfortunately the problem persists. I then had another idea. I swapped one of the Caseta-controlled lights with a different light, and now the traditional switch can properly turn on and off regardless of whether the Caseta is on. It almost makes me think my home was wired in a funny way to begin with and some unique aspect of this particular light - perhaps only when on a dimmer - makes it not work the way it used to. They're this cheapo model from Amazon. I've got to learn some more about what should be flowing where when lights are on and off to make a better assessment. And maybe pick up a tracer to confirm it's wired the way I think it is.
Yes, make sure you get a bridge and not a wifi router. While double NAT can work with Lutron's devices it will cause delay when not local and more headache than ou are probably equipped to handle. Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9C8TF3X?pd_rd_i=B0B9C8TF3X&pf_rd_p=7672bfb7-93b0-4322-b745-2104db09c4df&pf_rd_r=J3M0RP191HMEH56DXHPG&pd_rd_wg=wP77r&pd_rd_w=oFFYK&pd_rd_r=2274c854-99ab-4186-b751-02e7157b8561&th=1
A single distribution box is definitely much easier to maintain than a bunch of individual power supplies.
Make sure to pay attention to the required wire gauges. No matter which power supply you choose, those numbers stay the same.
Having a box with nice wire management is a bonus. But that's probably not worth an extra $800. As for the power supply, everybody cooks with water. Electricity is electricity. Yes, you want things like protection for overpower, over/undervoltage, short-circuit, temperature, ... But all the better suppliers can do that.
If you want a turn-key solution that is known to work and that is supported by Lutron, buy their branded product. If you are more cost-conscious and don't mean tinkering, get a basic enclosure and swap out the power supply for a quality brand. These are no product recommendations, just the first results that showed up for me. But I feel very confident that they can be made to work, and will do just as good a job as the Lutron device.
As to warranty, that's between you and Lutron. Legally, they can't stop you from using third party components. The Magnusson-Moss-Warranty-Act and the FTC are very clear on that. Practically, it might take an expensive court fight to get Lutron to follow the law.
> pico-wbx-adapt
yeah this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Control-Wallplate-Switches/dp/B07CZBZ4JF
​
looks white? or can a throw a black claro wall plate over it?
I replaced mine w/ https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38?th=111ksor w - .
Heres my trick for alignment. This assumes you've already done a decent job of making sure the wiring is not all bunched up and pushing the switches way out of whack. It doesn't have to be perfect though.
1) Get the Lutron Claro screw-less wall plates, don't try and save money by getting a cheaper generic one on amazon.
2) Remove the existing wall plate and smile while you discard.
3) Loosen (don't remove!) ALL of the screws that hold the existing switches to the outlet box in your wall. I'd have the screws loosened by about 1/4 in. This step is very important and gives each switch free range of motion.
4) Separate the two halves of the Lutron Claro plate to expose the mini screws.
5) Attach the back half of the plate to the switches using the mini screws. Tighten the MINI screws down ALL THE WAY so that the switch pulls itself into near-perfect alignment with the plate. Do this one switch at a time. You don't need to over tighten these, but definitely screw them down all the way. This is where all the switch-to-switch alignment happens.
6) At this point, all of your switches should be aligned nearly perfectly with the back half of the Lutron plate. You can now start tightening the screws that you loosened in step 3. This will then start to pull the back plate closer to the wall. Do your best to keep the back plate level during this step.
7) Your outlet box/drywall probably isn't perfect, so take care in tightening the screws, you want to tighten them enough to get the back plate to touch the wall, but never so much that you start bending the plate inwards
8) Snap on the front of the Lutron plate, then step back to admire your work.
It might take you a little bit to get the hang of this, but it has been my tried & true method over the years as a DIY'er. There is no harm in going back a step or two to adjust things if needed.
Link to Lutron Claro 4 gang: https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-CW-4-WH-4-Gang-Claro-Plate/dp/B00024BJV8
I only have 5 pre-wires. Do you think this would also work? I can’t seem to find the individual power requirements for each shade.
I know this is an old thread but was this solution plug and play out of the box for you? I tried to do something similar with this netgear switch and these micro-usb splitters but didn’t have luck getting them to work.
Not sure if the splitters were both DOA or if I matched the Poe specs incorrectly somehow.
Try putting one of these between the LED driver and lights.
I had some random strobing when I first installed my smart switches and it fixed the issue. For 3-way, you might need 2 of these to absorb the odd residual charge on both ends.
This was strobing after attempting to turn my lights off but I could see how this could work the other way around when turning the lights on.
Lutron LUT-MLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9F084E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8E49G4W8KK5M97K2MB82?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bestten makes nice screwless plates, that are well constructed, and reasonably priced. The USWP6 - snow white color matches best with lutron. The USWP4 matches with leviton. You won't notice much difference between them compared to the switches, so the P6 with a leviton rocker is fine, but if you mix the P6 and P4's plates close to each other, then you can see the difference.
I use the on/off switch along with a pico remote for the other location. This one does require a neutral wire unlike the dimmer though.
https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Control-HomeKit-Assistant-P-PKG1WS-WH/dp/B08FRN8FK5/
Just found the Caseta line... If the above method doesn't work, then should I get:
- 1 x Smart Fan Speed Control Switch for the fan
- 1 x Smart Home Dimmer Switch for the lights?
you could use the following single device ,by removing existing fan control Smart Ceiling Fan Control and Dimmer Light Switch, Neutral Wire Needed, Treatlife 2.4Ghz Single Pole Wi-Fi Fan and Light Switch Combo, Works with Alexa, Google Home and SmartThings, Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086PPRWL7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QXASAPBMB3VD30AF4XPB
I bought old work double gang boxes and then realized one room had a stud on both sides so I said screw it and bought Aqara ones. It works fine and I don’t have to deal with cutting holes in my wall. The other option that I considered was a smart ceiling fan and just replacing the whole thing, which I may do eventually.
This may be insane but sometimes it is stupid but works is it stupid? Put the fan on the switch and wire the lights on all the time and use smart bulbs.
The problem with motors is that they are inductive loads that have potentially very high in-rush currents. That can damage switches. This is true both for old-school mechanical switches and for fancy electronic switches. Mechanical switches usually address this problem by using suitable exotic materials for the contacts, and electronic switches have oversized components and big heat sinks, plus extra electronics that help with making things compatible with these high currents and with voltage transients.
What this means for you is that you not only need to look at the steady-state power requirements for your fan, you also need to consider peak current needs, and those can easily be a factor of 5 to 10 higher than the steady state.
If Lutron says their switches aren't compatible with more than a single motor, then that's probably why. It might work for a short while, but it'll eventually burn out.
If all you need is an on/off switch, then the solution is to install one or two beefy relays. I have had great luck with my Lutron switch driving this SSR: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753ZGST4 You can then connect a big'ish motor as a load. A single ceiling fan shouldn't be a problem, and while you need to check the specs of your fan, I am pretty sure you could run two of them off the same SSR. But if that doesn't work, you can always double up the relays.
Now, if you wanted to control fan speed, that's a different question. It is in principle possible to use an SSR with a dimmer circuit. But I don't believe this particular SSR would work at all. You'll need to find a different model, and I honestly have zero experience with that.
Can you give a few more details what you actually want to do? I assume you are talking about an automated dimmer or switch, because manually-operated switches don't really care much about voltage. So, in that case, we would need to know which product line you are talking about. Is it Caseta, RadioRA2, RadioRA3, HWQSX, ...?
In some of these lines, Lutron does have 240V capable switches. So, that's obviously the easiest option. They don't seem to have a DPST switch though, which would be nice in American split-phase systems.
If you can't find a suitable switch, then wiring in a solid-state-relay is the next best option. I have had great luck with https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753ZGST4 That would be an easy way to make a 240V switch.
Making a 240V dimmer is more difficult. There are solid state relays that don't switch on zero crossing, and you operate them behind a dimmer. But the devil is in the details. I don't have any first-hand experience with products that can do this.
There are two things he could mean:
​
1) If it is a switch with no neutral there is actually a "minimum" pull that the light needs to pull otherwise the light blinks and the switches constantly reboot and disconnect. If you buy the switch with a neutral (assuming you have a neutral in the box) this issue goes away. They also sell these: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E.
You put one of these in parallel with the load and it will pull enough power to make the non-nuetral work.
​
2) He could mean that the load is too much for the light switch. The switches are support 3 amps I believe off the top of my head (Check the manual to verify!! It also might be different for each switch). Generally that is more than enough for a light and normal fan.
Oh yeah, go with Satco then lol. Have you considered putting in a more traditional fixture and just put in screw in bulbs? Maybe one you can change with a pole? It won't look as good but it's a lot easier to deal with. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kichler-9834WH-Outdoor-Ceiling-1-Light/dp/B00084PLCA
Or perhaps a pendant of some sort where you can reach the bulbs easier.
> The 45 watt version of this worked for me (Armacost Lighting 840450): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IY81HO2
That unit also appears to have key regulatory listings:
- Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (ETL)
- FCC
- Class 2 Output
...All very important things when you want to build safe and to code.
Thanks. It took a bunch of time since I have a ton of switches (most not pictures) but largely because my previous wall plates were larger and I had to paint/mud around almost every switch to make sure it looked clean. Luckily the paint is builder grade and matched perfectly.
The keypad is a Zooz 700 Series Z-Wave Plus Mesh Network Scene Controller ZEN32, White | Z-Wave Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B6S4TSL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_1WV7YADDGMBXNXDRWA81.
If you use Caseta, you have to do the "switch plus Pico" thing. With RadioRA2/RA3, you can have regular switches in all locations.
RadioRA2 has a fan control (RRD-2ANF-PD). It's used for ceiling fans and allows you to set the speed. There really is no way with either of these systems to put bathroom fans on a timer. You'd have use a dumb switch for that. Also, I don't believe there are any two-function switches or dimmers. But if you are careful with an oscillating tool, extending the junction box isn't too difficult.
Neither Caseta nor RA2 can do any mesh networks, but they do have a pretty good range in general. So, you will probably be fine without any repeaters. RA3 can do mesh networking, but of course that'll introduce a little bit extra latency.
I don't believe any Lutron switches can handle more than 8A, and significantly less for inductive loads. If your load comes close to maxing out the full 15A, you'll have to install a relay that you control from the switch. I have had good luck with https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753ZGST4, but you have to provide your own housing and take care of safety features such as grounding and adequate ventilation. Not impossible, but it does require some more advanced DIY skills.
If you need to install lots of relays and if you have the option of fully rewiring the house, I'd recommend installing a panel with DIN rails in a centralized wiring closet (c.f. https://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369788_ENG.pdf) There are plenty of options for DIN-mounted relays. And some Lutron equipment is also compatible with DIN rails, or you can maybe find adapters.
> FYI, You have to deal with the wires regardless.
Sure, but at least if they're connected to a switch that's better than them being just loose in the wall (presumably, I'd get wire nuts and just twist them together?)
> Lutron doesn't make a smart system dimmer that allows you to leave the 4-way switch(es) in place.
Not sure what you mean by 4 way switches. I have 2-3 (depending on the room) switches to switch 1 light on(....actually the landing lights might be 4).
> If you want to skip the caseta + Pico, then you need to install one of their other system dimmers (Meastro or Sunnata) in one location and the matching "accessory dimmer" in the other location(s).
What's an accessory dimmer?
> But do you have a 14/3 going to the fan now with separate fan+light power wires or are your fans using a remote of some sort?
I don't know, I haven't opened the switch, but it's an actual regular switch on the wall. It looks like this though I don't know if it's actually made by Lutron(it could just be a copycat). The switch is on/off for the light fixture on the fan and the slider controls the fan speed. I'd like to replace that with something like this but there doesn't seem to be an equivalent in the casceta range(which frankly is quite surprising)
> Lutron Caseta and RA2 (Clear Connect Type-A) devices do not self-repeat. You need to have a repeater (main or otherwise) to cover the entire house.
That's a bummer, but not entirely unexpected, I suppose.
> Some of their switches appear to be rated for motor loads, but things like bath fans is the max. If you have a heating element like that, you will need to install a contactor of some sort for sure.
Maybe I'll just lave the heat cables then and just write an automation to yell at me to do it instead.
This might work for you Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting ELV Dimmer Switch for Electronic Low Voltage Light Bulbs, PD-5NE-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M22SK1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1948WQ98QW6JG82E90A9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not sure I follow but wouldn't this work?
Lutron Caseta Wireless Single-Pole/3-Way Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit | P-PKG1P-WH-R | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9DHR7HXR6020PHS15QKA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Plug that into the outlet and the under cabinet lighting into that? Then mount the Pico remote in place of the wall switch?
Hi, we are students from the Carnegie Mellon University working on a project with Lutron. We are looking for research participants to help us understand your experiences with Lutron products and services. We saw you have used Lutron products so we were wondering if you would be available for a less than 30 mins interview?
If you are interested in participating, please sign up for a time using the link below and we will be in contact with you shortly. We'd appreciate your help so much!
Hi, we are students from the Carnegie Mellon University working on a project with LUTRON. We are looking for research participants to help us understand your experiences with LUTRON products and services. We saw you have used LUTRON products so we were wondering if you would be available for a less than 30 mins interview?
If you are interested in participating, please sign up for a time using the link below and we will be in contact with you shortly. We'd appreciate your help so much!
Hey Ryan, are you saying all I need is 4 of these? Thank you.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_73D36C60VA8W0E9ZSVBW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think the ground (or lack of it) has anything to do with the operation of the dimmer. I have one or two RA2 dimmers in ungrounded boxes and they work fine. More likely something else wrong.
Anyway, the ground wire goes through the bottom left part of the switch like: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005Y6HRNI/
Awesome - that’s exactly the explanation that I needed. Can you suggest the best way to approach the wiring of the LED strips in series? The wiring will be in wall so I presume I’ll need something CL rated?
I am planning to use this LED strip - seems like decent reviews and will be right around 1000 lumens per 5 feet
Along with this driver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TF5M4YN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F95FEVMZZHD5A9JJX7K6
If you switch out to Decora switches, you may give these covers a shot. My wife preferred them over the Lutron overpriced covers. Externally, they look identical. They come in 1/2/3 gang configurations. Be sure to get the Pure White as they have a few white variations.
[10 Pack] BESTTEN 1-Gang Screwless Wall Plate, USWP6 Pure White Series, Decorator Outlet Cover, H4.69” x W2.91”, for Decor Switch, Dimmer, GFCI, USB Receptacle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRF6GXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PQ8PJFQ7P51CMJVGTQQ0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just an FYI, if you'd like to control dimming an outlet safely, Lutron Caseta makes a lamp dimmer product specifically for this. You could switch your wall switch back to a safe on/off (and leave it always on), and use the following at the plug:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0?th=1
Here is what I’m using:
Lights: Halo LT560WH6930R-6PK LT 5 in. and 6 in. White Ceiling Light Fixture Retrofit Downlight Trim, 90 CRI, 3000K Soft (6 Pack) Recessed Integrated LED, Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088TV5TNF/
Switches: Lutron Caseta Deluxe Smart Dimmer Switch (2 Count) Kit | Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-BDG-PKG2W-A | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD/
Not necessarily, Google brings this up:
Lutron Maestro Dual Dimmer Switch for Incandescent and Halogen Bulbs, 300-Watt, Single-Pole, MA-L3L3-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016P6JHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VC3FNE62J61A06SY6YCW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Depends on the loads. This isn't a system dimmer, btw
My garbage disposal switch is the only normal Decora switch in my whole house. Not much you can do about this. You're correct that you don't want any smart switch on your disposal because you don't want there to be any chance at all of it being turned on when you're not there.
If it's not ganged with another switch and you want something a little different, you can use a switch like this, which I use for my balcony light (I use it once a year so didn't see a need to install a smart switch):
That new repeater looks super nice. PoE in particular is great. I've been using a PoE extractor/splitter in my current system.
Mixed feelings about the Sunnata dimmers. I don't like the rocker style, but I like the light bar. The keypads look great, far better than the seeTouch keypads.
The designer/software improvements sound very welcome. Looks like we might be getting some of the HomeWorks stuff finally? Variables and maybe even double-tap?
Lack of Grafik support is kind of lame, but I haven't put any of those in yet, so it doesn't bother me too much. I've always sort of got the impression that Lutron begrudgingly tolerated Grafik. Its stunning when you see them in person, but when a single Grafik T costs what 2-3 Maestros cost, its a hard sell.
New colors look really nice, particularly the blue hues.
I hope LEAP is available for anyone who wishes to use it. I use HomeSeer and HomeAssistant to bridge some features Lutron doesn't have in RA2.
Still no inline dimmers like what Europeans get, booo.
No upgrades to occupancy/vacancy sensors either; was really hoping we'd get a unit in the form factor of those Maestro O/V sensors, that was able to control a whole "room".
Now I guess the biggest question is price. I'm a DIYer, so don't really have to worry about clients or whatnot. Wife and I both like the Maestro style, so probably no huge impetus to upgrade now either
Honestly you might be better off with a "dumb" automation.
You can get temperature controlled outlets that do exactly this: https://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-TC-3-Thermostatically-Controlled/dp/B0006U2HD2
I have one to keep my hen's water tank unfrozen
Now I have to ask “What size?” For BR30s, I’ve been happy with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4GDL82/ . They dim down lower than most LED bulbs. If you have only one on a standard Caséta dimmer, it will ghost, but I take advantage of this to use it in a bathroom where it acts as a nightlight.
No problems here with Philips warm glow, we have about 30 of them in recessed fixtures.
PHILIPS LED 457010 BR40 Dimmable 800-Lumen, 2700-2200-Kelvin, 10 (65 Equivalent) Flood Light Bulb with E26 Medium Base, Warm Glow, 8.8 Watt (pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014392FQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_77B514ZPP2J5GFFM8RD3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the help… both the lights and are controlled by switch they’re all one unit.. Would this suffice for the upgrade? Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EFHGGZ8CQNTXA170P7R6
No, if both the fan and light come on when you flip the switch, putting a dimmer in will still cause both the fan and light to come on. Fan motors don't work well with a dimmer, and a dimmer isn't rated for a fan load.
You either need to run 14/3 romex from the switch box to the fan, so you can control the fan separately from the lights.
OR you'd need something like this ceiling fan controller which can be installed inside of the fan housing. I haven't used them, and I don't believe that Lutron makes any product similar to this.
Thinking something like this could work? Lutron Maestro LED+ Dimmer for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandesent Bulbs | Single-Pole or Multi-Location | MACL-153M-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KH2FBTGT4DST71RTQYWP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you're already going with Lutron switches then I recommend getting a "dumb" fan and you can control it via the Lutron switches and/or HomeKit. Avoid fans that includes remotes if you want to use the Lutron switches. We recently installed three of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DF4ICOY
Yeah, those on off switches are only rated for 6 amps. If you want to get original, you could wire in an outdoor smart plug and have a Pico mounted on the wall to control it to get something rated for 15 amps.
By tie the legs together you just mean bypass the switch so its a constant connection? That would be what I do if I remove some of the switches, but that doesn't really get rid of a switch. Just replaces it with the pico :). So still have 186 switches in the main room.
Although I guess I can cover some of these with face plates similar to this:
And I'm sure they make these in a variety of configurations with covered and uncovered switch openings. I could make it reasonably clean looking with a bit of planning.
I first bought the GE HD+ lights but didn’t like the warm color temperature and swapped them for the cheaper GE Refresh LED. Both of them worked great.
GE Refresh 60-Watt EQ A19 Daylight Dimmable LED Light Bulb (8-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q4XK9BL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D3D98PR773HWT021D9ZY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry didn't take your description as meaning you didn't have neutrals.
So yes your best bet is probably the cap.
Or you can add more lights to the circuit of you'd like.
Believe neutral required for this Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KN8BVPRBBW027P536Z6D
They have some good starter packs with 2 switches or 2 dimmers and the hub. Did you want dimming or just switches?
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1SW Caseta Start Kit, Smart Switch (2 Count), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08427MFSD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RT2C2PB79T582M5FWK1G
Sunperian 6 Pack BR30 LED Bulb, 8.5W=65W, 3500K Natural White, 800 Lumens, Dimmable Flood Light Bulbs for Recessed Cans, Enclosed Fixture Rated, Damp Rated, UL Listed, E26 Standard Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PC79ZV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VX1HZCMYKMWAXRQQM201?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I looked the bulbs up, they are dimmable and marketed as such. Yes, only the pico remote creates the issue where they only go halfway when turned on. It makes no sense. Those exact same bulbs dim perfectly fine in the other rooms.
Bulbs
Progress Lighting P810027-028-30 Slim Line Flush Mount, Satin White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NGZG9HX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G2N6JF3RQ2GT0JSXQJ7D
It's possible that it's a loose connection but those old school maestro dimmers did NOT like LED bulbs. The problem is that unlike a manual slider dimmer, the maestro has some built in smarts too- even the dumbest maestro lets you double tap it to go to 100%, press and hold so it counts down so you can leave the room with the lights going off just as you make it to the other end, etc. and since most of them don't require a neutral wire, the dimmer "steals" the neutral through the resistance of the light bulbs. Since LED bulbs aren't resistive loads, the electronics of the dimmer can't get a good "neutral" and they kind of freak out.
But anyway, this is a pretty easy and cheap issue to fix... the new LED+ lineup (used to be called CL) will work great with most LED bulbs and lets you trim the low end so you can customize it for each particular LED since some can dim lower than others.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Incandescent-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-MACL-153M-WH/dp/B008X3CHM0
Maybe you should start a patreon! You keep giving me money saving advice! :)
Yeah, I agree, my first choice would just be a direction recessed led light aimed at the painting, but this is a large painting (5 ft wide) and is going on the back of our fireplace in the foyer, which is 2 stories (so no where to mount a ceiling light aimed at it). Plus, we've already bought the LED light a couple of years ago, just never installed it. But the light alone was around $400 as I recall.
I like your idea of just putting in a recessed plug and cycling through a few power supplies that are easily returnable on amazon to find the one that works. Something like this?
I played it safe and ran wire. I used this speaker wire rather than springing for actual Lutron wire and it works fine. My repeaters are just barely within range and are located on different floors and it turns out that I didn't even need the wire, they connect fine with it unplugged. You should be fine with what you've got.
I can’t tell you what to get, but I can tell you DONT get these - made my dimmer buzz:
LE GU10 LED Light Bulbs, 50W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBZPD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These ones worked for me before that though but they’re Phillips
Philips 465104 LED GU10 Dimmable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RM9N6J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Lutron has had smart 3-way dimmers and switches for decades now in their higher end systems. If this is something that's important for you, you should really consider Ra2 Select because with that, you'll get a Radio Ra2 dimmer and then you can use remote dimmers that use the existing wiring to give you a true multi-location solution. You can have up to 10 remote dimmers and also dim at every location which is something mechanical switches can't do. The wiring is a little different than mechanical switches so it's really geared more towards electricians and those who know what they're doing.
Caseta came to be as a simple and affordable solution so on that end, Lutron decided to initially just come out with a standard non polarized single pole dimmer so anybody including home owners could easily install them. If someone has a 3-way or 4-way setup, you essentially have to convert it to a single pole and use a pico remote which is as simple and non-confusing as it can get for anybody remotely (heh) familiar with home wiring.
But yes, the PD-10NXD can be used with a mechanical 3-way but you have to use a little jumper to make the mechanical 3-way into a mechanical single pole and follow the wiring instructions to a T because it's not a standard way to do it so you better be familiar with how a normal 3-way works, ie. what travelers and commons do or this will actually be confusing. It's probably a lot easier to just use a pico remote and also get the ability to dim at that location IMO. Again, these are smart dimmers so you can't just put a 3-way switch on them and expect them to work without some smarts in the dimmer.
You can still find the PD-10NXD https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Cover-Caseta-Dimmer-PD-10NXD-WH/dp/B0134O4O00 but it's harder to find these days since the ELV dimmers can handle more types of loads so more people seem to buy that one.
This one is only $75 complete! Take that Lutron, ha ha. https://www.amazon.com/InstallerCCTV-Output-Distributed-Supply-Security/dp/B00BBKCJ16/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=DC+Power+Distribution&qid=1605567271&sr=8-4
To add... the left switch problem is solved by not screwing your switch mounting screws in so far. The Lutron branded plates need quite a bit of mounting screw exposed to make them sit flush. If you want a decent replacement, I’ve used the BESTTEN Screwless plates from amazon. They’re better fit, IMO, and the WAF was higher with them. They come in 1/2/3 gang versions.
[10 Pack] BESTTEN 1-Gang Screwless Wall Plate, USWP6 Snow White Series, Decorator Outlet Cover, 4.69” H x 2.91” L, for Decor Switch, Dimmer, GFCI, USB Receptacle, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRF6GXH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_uqySFbA1J4V38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I wouldn't use the fan speed control switch. Dimmable lights and adjustable speed fan motors require power to be provided in different ways that are incompatible, and if you try to hook them to the same adjustable switch, one won't work properly and may get damaged. The only Caseta switch that will work to control both a fan and a light on the same circuit is this on / off switch: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=lutron+caseta&qid=1601411520&sr=8-7 You would still be able to adjust the fan speed from the fan itself, but the light would either be on or off, not dimmable.
Are you sure you don't have two separate circuits connected to a single switch? If so, then you could convert the box to dual gang and use one light dimmer switch and one fan control switch just like you do everywhere else.
One idea is get a Zigbee Wireless Module with 14 Input Channels for dry contacts and Samsung SmartThings then use that to drive the Lutron RadioRA 2 system. I've seen posts that say SmartThings now supports both Caseta and RA 2 but nothing official looking from Samsung.
Does anyone definitely know whether RadioRA 2 is supported by Samsung SmartThings?
you need this dimmer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M22SK1W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
everyone says if you have buzzing LED lights, this fixes it. it's expensive though.
The Diva C.L can dim anything.. you're fine.
I hope you enjoy your lighting.
If you want digital dimming:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Incandescent-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-MACL-153M-WH/dp/B008X3CHM0
FYI although yes, the dimmer Pico will control a non-dimmer switch, they also make a Pico switch without the dimmer. I've never seen it in a store, but it's easy enough to find at Amazon.
Lutron PJ2-2B-GWH-L01 Pico On/Off Remote Control, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXOE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PScMCb9D43EXS