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That one is custom made. Off the shelf is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Reversible-Adjustable-Refining-Aluminum-Precious/dp/B00F9GHB98
Theyre made for use with rolling mills in jewelry making. The one in the link is cast iron, the one in your picture is aluminum, and probably purpose built by a machine shop.
Because this is a one off project i would try lost styrofoam casting all you would need is sand, plaster to cover bones and somerhing to melt the aluminum. I have experimented with lost foam casting and you can get some good detail with it and because you dont need to make complicated molds or need special sand its very cheap. Styrofoam bones are easy to come by just try to find the most life like ones you can. Thier are alot of videos on youtube of people doing lost styrofoam casting of skulls so i would look at some. Here is one https://youtu.be/z7KOUfjuMlI
Hiya, memes_are_facts! Are you doing well today? Oh really? I'm so glad to hear that!
That sand is called "petrobond" - p e t r o b o n d. Yes, a little bit like James Bond. No, the sand isn't also an agent. It's called "bond" because the petrol bonds the sand together, it keeps the little sand grains stuck with each other, a bit like granola bars!
You can ask your parents to buy it from a lot of places. You could ask them to google it, and see if anywhere nearby sells it! You can show them this link, so they will buy you the right thing! Yes, your daddy can be a bit of a dumb dumb. Amazon.com: Petrobond Sand an Affordable Delft Clay Alternative for Precious Metal Casting
One tip if your using a FDM regular printer is to dip your prints in Pfaffian canning wax it goes on thin and will get rid of a lot of print lines without sanding. For brass making wax copies is fine until you get a resin printer. If your doing brass you can try making your own investment with sand and plaster but you really need real investment to get good consistent results . To make the other side of the board until you get to brass. just blacken the pewter with this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Jax-Metal-Finishing-Solutions-Pewter/dp/B06XGQFZ85/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M82CDM454RY7&dchild=1&keywords=pewter+black&qid=1606956835&sprefix=pewter+black%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-3
the patina will rub off if you leave it bare so seal it with some clear sealant i don't know the name of the stuff but its sold for sealing jelwery
If you have the money, just ditch the steel crucible. Its just not worth the headache when it fails, and iron is a contaminant in aluminum casting.
This is a series of relatively cheap graphite crucibles on amazon. They last essentially forever as long as you cook in an oven before using it to dry it out(and then keep it dry between pours). They have a bunch of different sizes.
Never used fused silica, always had graphite ones. That said, some are going on four years old and no issues. For these, when I get then I turn them upside down, fire to red hot and hit with borax sprinkling. Then remove, flip, more borax, and let it melt into a puddle. Roll the crucible on its side to coat the inner walls, pour out the extra and let cool in the furnace. Zero issues. If you aren't cooling in the furnace, you're putting a lot of thermal stress on the crucible, which can lead to cracks, regardless of material.
I've received one crucible broken in the mail (Rosenthal Collection), and won't touch anyone but PMC now. I'm sure there are other good ones out there, but I've been happy with their stuff.
In general crucibles are rated for how much copper or bronze they'll hold. A #3 will hold 4kg (.95 US pints), #4 will hold 6kg (1.42 pints), and #6 will hold 8kg (1.89 pints).
Edit - from the specs, you've got a large crucible. It will hold one liter, or 2.2 pints. 19.9 pounds is 9 kg, so #7 would be my guess. Not sure that PMC makes that specific size, but that's what you're looking at.
I've done a lot of low temp indoor casting demos with white alloys. Britannia isn't a typical casting alloy, but I've known a few others to do the same demos with pewter or pure tin. I use bismuth/tin for the extremely low melting temperatures (280ish f) as the demos are for schools and younger children.
Britannia is going to need you to get up to right around 500F. At this point you're well into the realm of needing PPE and having to be careful about moisture. I would also begin to question how well silicone will hold up (I've never used it for anything other than casting wax). Might be worth it to buy one of those self heating crucibles for bullet casting, something like 50 bucks on Amazon. (https://www.amazon.com/Do-It-Molds-1892-Hot-Pot-2/dp/B002QG3H9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=lead+casting+furnace&qid=1578369908&sprefix=lead+casting+fur&sr=8-6)
Pick a good spot with some decent airflow and nothing you don't mind destroying under your casting area. At 500 it may not char your wooden table, but it will certainly destroy the polymer finish if you spill. God help a synthetic carpet....
Wear gloves, goggles (faceshield is better) and some natural cotton long sleeves and jeans, closed toe shoes without mesh, leather is best. A leather apron is also nice if you like your clothing. Remember, you dress for the worst and hope for the best. Natural materials only, no one likes picking plastic out of burns.
Be cautious and deliberate and you'll be fine.
Aaaaand I just realized that is a 50lb bag. I am uncertain if that mass uses zip lock, but then again, it doesn't depict one HERE, yet mine had one and this is the exact source I purchased from.
It seems to work ok, but like I said, I'm really just starting out.
Here's the silicone gasket I put between the top plate I made and the pot: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N4KVHYD
Like I said, I plasma cut the top plate, but you could use an online fab shop like sendcutsend to make one. You wouldn't even need to cad it because they have a feature for making a washer shape on their side. I initially priced it out before i got access to a plasma cutter and I think it was going to be less than $30 plus shipping.
You could probably cut a hole out of a sheet of alumin(i)um with a hole saw if you had a square or circle plate the right size. Might even get away with wood in a pinch I guess, but there's a chance of that going catastrophically wrong.
I'm starting to get some reasonable casts. Still have a little porosity, but I need to try:
- leaving 30 minutes before quench (my first I tried after like 3 minutes and that was a big mistake haha, don't do that)
- Bigger sprue/tree to supply as it cools.
- letting the metal get hotter before pouring
- letting the vacuum rise/fall further before starting to to pour. When I first did it, I just kinda turned it on and poured. I waited a bit longer the next time, but I think next time I try I'm really gonna try and wait for the needle to stop moving.
- Also could try degassing the metal in the furnace too I guess.
Ferris make a type of patching wax that can be manipulated like clay. It's supposed to be used in conjunction with investment wax, repairing flaws in the pattern, adding minor details, etc.
Go to a railroad track and collect taconite. It's fucking everywhere. Then build a cupola and make some steel sponge. Cupola: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cupola_furnace other stuff: https://books.google.com/books?id=NFqltO13iasC&pg=PA629&lpg=PA629&dq=steel+sponge+cupola&source=bl&ots=fw2ml7xvw4&sig=VJyfNTis2sXo_ZQyM4465mWKuH0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=VY5LVbbcNYLToAT1Rw&ved=0CDAQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&am...
I also have recently made the move from only "6kg" crucibles to a larger furnace which supports up to around a 15kg crucible. I have had the same issues. As mentioned, that's getting to the weight that starts to become increasingly difficult to handle single handedly. In my case, I got a pair of tongs off amazon, which I have had to heat and bang a little into proper shape for my bigger crucible. I can lift from the furnace with these, and pour ingots. But I can't get the finite control of flow needed to pour smaller models/molds/etc with it.
These are the tongs I got : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0B9J7Y9M8
I tried making my own pouring handle/tongs using some light steel tube hammered flat, and a pole, but there were strength issues. I will probably take another run at that at some point. I also agree in practicing with something like sand filling a crucible. When I first got this I thought I could handle it with the pouring tongs I made at home, I was wrong and it was the first significant molten metal spill I've had since I've been doing this as a hobby (around a year and a half now)
I recently bought this debubblizer but have yet to use it. I suppose I should use that first before altering my water ratio?
I couldn't link you to the post, but some guy did a test of various oils on rejuvenating petrobond a while back and found that the oil linked below worked best.
Oatey 30201 Clear Cutting Oil,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058I1LMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I found the ITC compounds really helped keep the heat in on my little forge. You can see the difference in it when it's full hot...glows only half as hot at satanite.
Hmm. I'm an amateur myself, but I'd recommend getting 3 separate crucibles. One for each type of metal you plan to melt. For me, aluminum and copper worked great in clay-graphite crucibles like this one
https://www.amazon.ca/Foundry-Graphite-Crucibles-Furnace-Melting/dp/B00FBFUB3U
I highly recommend a book: The Complete Handbook of Sand Casting by C. W. Ammen.
I bought some graphite crucibles for excess: https://www.amazon.com/Graphite-Crucible-Melting-Refining-Aluminum/dp/B08PBWJB79/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=graphite+crucible&qid=1656124161&sprefix=graphite+cru%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-15
I was figuring if I had extra molten metal in the crucible after filling the mold I would pour it in some of these to make ingots. I suppose I should season these and heat them with a blow torch for containing the extra metal.
There are quite a few videos on YouTube of people converting toaster ovens and standard ovens into functional kilns.
I'm in the process of making one using a small toaster oven that has been gutted and double insulated with ceramic wool. The ramp/soak is controlled with a PID temperature controller. It maintains the scheduled temperature very well within a few degrees after the PID has been tuned.
The maximum temperature I can hold with the four existing heating elements is about 1100°F which is just shy of the 1350°F often used in burnout schedules. I'm going to try adding in a couple more elements and if that doesn't work move to 220v elements.
Just throwing out the idea if you're looking to save money.
Welcome to the weird obsession we casters seem to have with skulls. ;)
My favorites so far are my aluminum ones since I can just use a metal cakelette pan from Halloween/dio de las Muertos
This is the one I use : https://smile.amazon.com/Non-Food-Items-Mini-Skull-Cavity/dp/B096T57SBQ/ref=sr\_1\_7?crid=33T49T1TDTFE8&keywords=skull+cakelette+pan+wilton&qid=1654313421&sprefix=skull+cakelette+pan+wilton%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-7
The one big upgrade I did to it was changing out the regulator/hose for one with a meter on it.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZGHCR2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The exact one I got isn't available anymore. But this is essentially the exact same thing :
Just the ones I've seen on Amazon. Search for metal casting plaster but make sure to look for the words "investment" and "jewelry". The other plasters that come up seem to be those ones people use for casting their hands and I'm not sure how that would work with molten metal.
I use a gongyi 6 kg metal foundry. Its a pretty cheap one in comparison. It uses propane and gets to about 2300 degrees. Heres the link on amazon. GONGYI 6KG Melting Furnace Kit GMF600 Smelting Quickly Made by Full Stainless Steel 304 for Scrap Metal Recycle Gold Copper Aluminum Includes Crucible and Tongs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GPVF415/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HC3FWAMNW8SQB0AQK60T If I were you I would splurge for a devil forge or something similar.
I have a can of this I use...
https://smile.amazon.com/SLIDE-HI-TEMP-release-lubricant-Nitride/dp/B004RFKJ3C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=slide+mold+release+spray&qid=1647891642&sprefix=slide+mold+re%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3
I've also dusted metal molds in graphite powder before.
I got mine from Amazon. Took 3 days and free shipping with Prime.
I ended up selling my equipment before ever really getting started, but my planned method of attack was to make model engine flywheels from pewter and/or lead. I never ended up melting my 1-lb pewter bar and sent it back. However...
I bought a lead melting pot (~$40), and a bunch of lead weights. Look for people selling fishing equipment and you might find a deal - I got a 1-lb ball of lead for a dollar. I played around with kinetic sand for casting, and had okay results. What I should've bought is green sand or Petrobond. These are more suitable for casting than what I was using.
This is what's called a flask. The kit also has a crucible, tongs, and sand to get started.
I can recommend getting a book called "Hot Metal" by Wayne E. Potratz. I bought it starting up and it has been tremendously useful for general knowledge on many different techniques, both traditional and modern. It covers everything you would need to start up.
Youtube is a great resource for he rest, once you figure out what type of casting you want to be doing.
I like to wear something like these. When I'm doing anything where there's a chance very hot metal is going to fall on my foot. Welding, casting, cutting, smithing, whatever. It only takes once where a blob of molten metal (torching in the incident I'm thinking of) gets lodged in your boot laces and starts burning through.
This was written a few years ago by a friend of a friend. I've found it useful as it's broken out by metal then color. The link is to the US version.
thermal gun wouldn’t something like this work. I haven’t started melting yet so I haven’t tried it.
As mentioned, this isn't that our of the ordinary. Part of the problem with having all that low melting/boiling point Zinc mixed in with that higher melting point Copper.
This is one reason I rarely just do open face pourings of brass outside ingots. If you want to help prevent some of the sticking in the pans you might consider a can of this to use every now and again :
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKJ3C/
I looked up "automatic can crusher" on Amazon and quite a few popped up for under $150.
Some looked like you still crushed 1 at a time.
Others looked like it had a feeder and automatically crushed cans nonstop as you fed it cans.
They all seemed to be pneumatic, so you'd need an air compressor.
For example:
For metals releasing from molds I use this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RFKJ3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know if that would help as much for molds from refractory cement. I start with resin printing my forms, which give them a pretty smooth surface up front though. From experience making other things from concrete (like a countertop) I learned about using some other sprays, using melamine for the flask/frame, etc...
I stand corrected, thanks for the catch. They're Copper Phosphorous rods.
These are what I have been using :
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAV83M/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd say YES you can remelt it. I often have left over metal which will form up a "cup" in the bottom of the crucible. I normally pop these out and they become part of the next melt (save them in scrap containers).
As mentioned by GreenBmx, Copper can be a bear to get a good pour on. I love copper, I hate melting/pouring it. In lieu of a phosphor shot I have had some success with phosphorus/copper brazing rods used by welders. Cut off about an inch or two and drop in once you've cleaned out the dross/muck and are letting it "cook" before pouring. It's helped me a bit with the gas issues.
I get them at a local welding supply shop, but you can find them on amazon :
https://smile.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-PC3-Copper-Phosphorous-Brazing-Welding/dp/B000GAV83M
This mold works quite well, they also make a few different sizes depending on how much you’re looking to cast. https://www.amazon.com/Graphite-Casting-Melting-Silver-4-13x1-37x0-78/dp/B01DHVLBOC?pd_rd_w=80C76&pf_rd_p=fe838164-8963-4b55-8b4d-8eb514ffa8b5&pf_rd_r=CKVFTYB3F9A0Q217508K&pd_rd_r=de544202-f54f-4055-8f6b-2719ece62ddc&pd_rd_wg=IGujO...
I've used both Graphite and cast iron ingot molds for copper with no real issues.
Of course I've also used steel baking pans, but I coat them with a release agent before pouring copper. This stuff says 1800 degrees, which is low for copper pouring obviously, but it's kept it from sticking to my steel molds.
https://smile.amazon.com/SLIDE-HI-TEMP-release-lubricant-Nitride/dp/B004RFKJ3C/
Global-Dental Centifuge Centrifugal Casting Machine Apparatus Crucibles Flask JT-08 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07HH2XTBK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F889X9D6Y6FYR9J6784Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. I use something synapse to this
I've never used it, but iirc there are some things in baby powder that are suboptimal for you (read your MSDS's on everything you use!)
I bought a thing of tire talc - something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rema-Tire-Talc-16-0oz-Canister/dp/B00BO02W2Y
It's cheap and will likely last me until I'm a hundred.
I've done some small scale casting at the local community college, but have never had any casting equipment myself. I've been offered this foundry and I'm wondering what it would take to get it working. It appears to be in good condition, except that the handle that lifts the lid is broken. There are no markings on it except for "W.F.A." on the feet. The exterior dimensions are 9.5" (24cm) diameter by 14" (35cm) tall (11" (28cm) tall not including the feet). The interior is 6.75" (17cm) diameter by 7' (17.8cm) tall. Would this burner/regulator work in it? Would this crucible work in it? Any recommendations for tongs or other equipment? Thanks for any advice!
Any chance you have a link to an example of the thermocouple. The only thing I find on Amazon is this
Yeeco + K Type Thermocouple 0~1300℃ Temperature Thermocouple Sensor Temperature detector Temperature Gauge https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00XJ0VUBG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WCC9CVDQ000Y3NA85VXP
I actually have this furnace https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FF3HCLZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I know iron is way hotter, but i can make a lot of money when i can pull it off and i will be able to get hot enough
I got this stuff recently. Very satisfied. No idea if it's the best though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J19XZYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To get a good color contrast you can blacken pewter useing a product like this and seal it with jewelry clear coat
That would probably work, but it would probably weight a ton. And has no pour spout.
However, is cast iron really a workable crucible for silver? If so something like this would be perfect. Perhaps with a longer handle welded to it. https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-LMP3-Melting-Pre-Seasoned-15-Ounce/dp/B0002CX9FE
For pewter i use a hotpot 2 but for bronze and silver you will need a graphite crucible https://www.amazon.com/Do-It-Molds-1892-Hot-Pot-2/dp/B002QG3H9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hot+pot+metal+melter&qid=1607800941&sr=8-3
Another issue you'd have with the same kiln for burnout and melting (aside from schuttart's point about simultaneous use) is that the burnout kiln needs a vent to get rid of the vapourised wax. You don't want that building up in your melting kiln. I've been very happy with the one below. Programmable so you don't crack your investment with rapid heat changes, and can have it set to finish when you plan to pour. Size is limited, but if you're doing small items that shouldn't be an issue. This is just an example - lots of options out there, but their tech support is top-notch. Essentially the same item that PMC sells - the components are universal.
Of course you can go low-tech and eyeball temperatures - worst that happens is you're out a mold, a day's work and have to re-melt your failed cast. The experience you get will be valuable, regardless.
You may also want to look into either a vacuum chamber or centrifugal casting. Again this depends on what size items you're casting and how many. Best of luck - have fun with it regardless.
Definitely interested in the links, still considering a DIY.
Are we looking at the same thing on Amazon? The one I’m looking at comes with a crucible, so just want to be sure we’re not comparing apples to oranges
Cast Masters Propane Furnace w 5KG Crucible and Tongs Kiln Smelting Gold Silver Copper Scrap Metal Recycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DRQY98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6MIjDbA9GKBZC
Pewter is great to start with looks just like silver when polished. Look in to RTV silicone molds to get started. You dont need a furness for pewter you can melt it on a stovetop with a cast iron pan but I use this because its easier and more portable
I can't speak to the reliability of your crucible because I'm new to this but I did get a clay crucible on amazon that was labeled as size #4, it has depth of 5.5" and width of 4.5" for usable inner dimensions. I hope this helps!
Link here
I use a K type thermocouple to measure the foundry sometimes to check to make sure it's reaching the temp I expect. Here's one from Amazon that is similar to what I use. This one is inexpensive but you'll need to have a multimeter that reads thermocouples or a dedicated thermocouple meter.
The burnout oven is the most expensive part of the setup if your looking to make rings or other smaller stuff I would suggest you get one of these this will be my next purchase the small size and rapid heating makes it perfect for casting small pieces https://www.amazon.com/Rapidfire-Digital-Programmable-Controller-Beadmaking/dp/B00CUKD1UY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=table+top+furnace&qid=1572903793&sprefix=table+top+fur&sr=8-4
Impressive first results! I've been thinking of trying pewter casting as well, but will likely go with a silicone mold as it seems like fewer things can go wrong. Have you tried Smooth On Mold Max 60? https://www.amazon.com/Mold-High-Resistant-Silicone-Rubber/dp/B00IZNNIU8
I've had pretty good luck with this stuff:
Once it cools it's easy to cut into the mold to free the template item. Main issue I've had is keeping the template in position - 3D prints try to float in this stuff. You'll also want to seal the prints so that you aren't leaking air bubbles into the mold.
Sorry, I just got into this, and forgot to use the correct terminology. You're right, foundry.
I looked into the crucible and This is what I have decided to buy.
Two more questions if you don't mind.
- What do you use as molds for the casting?
and
- What do you wear when doing work with your foundry?
Depending on how big you plan on going with your items, I highly recommend getting an oil-sand like petrobond.
It really drops the learning curve/complexity because there is no gas that needs to escape.
The sand can be recharged with a bit of motor oil after it gets "depeleted" but, of course, avoid breathing the fumes after you pour.
If your trying to stay as cheap as possible you might want to check out this:
http://www.amazon.com/Making-Crucibles-Vincent-R-Gingery/dp/1878087274
Might be able to find a copy in a library or bookstore to look at first.
As for dropping metal on snow. I haven't done that specifically. I would guess there would be a lot of sudden steam. Think quenching metal into water. Not an explosion but definite risk of burns from the steam.
I have dropped metal onto concrete. The concrete will flake and pop when that happens. Best advice is to get out of the way when that happens to avoid burns from flying concrete chips coated in molten metal.
Asphalt would probably catch on fire.
Myself I use a sandy area to do my pours. Dirt would probably work as well.
But thinking about it a pallet and a scrap piece of plywood would probably work well. Make sure it is dry not wet. If you end up dropping metal it will char/burn the wood rather than some form of explosion.
that cruciable is VERY small.... you want something bigger for sure. If its a backyard forge, and you are going to be melting aluminum, you can try a cast iron crucible. you can get one on amazon... they are sold as lead melting pots for making bullets. a 10lb lead pot will hold about 2+ lbs of aluminum. Cast iron works better than steel (like old fire extinguishers). Steel will leach into the aluminum and eventually your castings will get some rusting.
As to where to cast... think of what you have as a BBQ gril... a really really high powered BBQ. anywhere you can grill, you can cast :) as you arent burning wood (I assume you arent).
You could cast on your driveway/parking lot, but you should considder opening a 50lb bag of and and pouring it into a spot and putting your furnace directly on the sand, and then another bag spread out under your pouring area incase you have any spills, the sand will keep your driveway from exploding.
I would definately think twice about casting near the snow or water. if the metal COVERs some water/snow it will turn to steam and "explode" (not really an explosion, more the steam is projecting the molten metal). if you cleared the snow, and then poured down some fresh sand, you should have a pretty dry area to pour.
edit : here is a link to a 20lb lead pot, see if it will fit your furnace : http://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-L42-006-Lead-Melting/dp/B000CNKFRI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452183743&sr=8-4&keywords=cast+iron+lead+pot
if its too big, they have 10 lb pots also.
Is there a reason ordering a graphite crucible from amazon isn't an option?
I have the one linked above and it has worked great so far. I keep it in a bag with desiccant to make it last longer(less moisture to escape/weaken the crucible when heating)
Also, since when is being able to pick something up at WalMart considered a good thing vs. the internet unless you literally need it that day? WalMart is a hellish place.