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Maybe check your library for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Human-Powered-Home-Choosing-Muscles-Motors/dp/0865716013
Also, for the cyclists, here is Quadzilla vs a toaster: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4O5voOCqAQ&ab_channel=TheToasterChallenge
Clothes dry just fine on cloudy days on my regular old clothes line without any additional fans (I live in Seattle and have tested this extensively as it is cloudy most of the year here...) On those rainy days, I have a indoor drying rack that works great. If I am in a hurry I can set it up over top of my 30W fan and my clothes are dry in about an hour.
>Stretch a survival blanket, space blanket, or mylar across a frame.
Those survial blankets are not really ment for repeated use and end up being garbage after a few uses. That sounds like a great way to waste money on something that would only marginally improve clothes drying.
>Put wet clothes in an oven bag with pin holes.
That sounds like a really great way to severely restrict airflow which would be the absolute worse thing to improve drying times. Airflow is the key, not heat or thermal mass.
>Buy a cheap Styrofoam cooler.
I don't even know how you are imagining that this would dry clothes.
Deep cycle marine batteries. They make these for solar/off-grid setups too.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK
Edit: I'm not speaking to the quality of the battery I posted above, I simply searched for deep cycle battery on amazon and took the first result as an example. There are a ton of brands out there, so you'll have to do some research on which battery is the best, unless someone on here can share some of their own experiences.
Right, no disagreement that people are getting fucked over. But my question was alluding to the fact that you could have summed up your blog post in a simple text post:
"If you don't like paying excessive tethering fees, install this app on your android phone and your carrier won't be able to tell your tethering data from your phone data."
Instead, you over complicated the issue and made it as a blog post in order to get more views on your site. For a relatively new redditor, who has already been accused of using the platform to spam your site, you don't seem to understand the users here are not huge fans of blatant self promotion.
I have been out a my property the last two weekends and yesterday finally got the Cell Phone booster working. I went from zero bars to 2.18Mbps down! I was actually able to do a video call with my wife. The next goal it to get it up higher in the tree by about 20 feet to see if I can get over 5Mbps. I think at that point I would have a good enough connection I could take work calls from out there!
Yes I think getting the batteries to a known state is the best first step. Once they're fully charged by a decent charger you can just let them sit 24hrs and see what the voltage is then. Healthy batteries should settle down to 12.6v after being disconnected from the charger. If they go much lower, or more to the point if they continue dropping below 12.3 while they're disconnected then they're bad and probably can't be recovered.
A trickle charger won't do it though, you need something that has a setting for sla vs flooded batteries and that can drive at least 10A and you need a voltmeter and ammeter, built in is best - some way to continuously monitor the progress. If it's not a quality 3-stage charger then just watch it as the voltage rises to 14.4-14.5 and then watch for the amp draw to fall off. The rule I go by for terminating charging is 5% of the 20 hour amps capacity rating of the batteries. If those are 100AH for 20 hours rated then that's obviously 5A. When the charge current drops to 5A you're done with that one.
Note that most solar charge controllers require that the solar inputs to the controller never be active unless there's a battery connected on the battery side first. I blew up a Chinese controller this way once though not nearly as nice a one as you have there ($12 on Amazon).
Any 10A or bigger charger will work provided it can be set for sla batteries
These following units are cheaper on marine sites. Just google the model number.
A good one:
https://www.amazon.com/ProMariner-43012-ProSport-Generation-Battery/dp/B00F5EBR1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_7
A superb charger for permanent install as generator driven backup to your solar:
https://www.amazon.com/ProMariner-63170-ProNauticP-2420P-Battery/dp/B004S63NIS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4
I use a Franklin submersible pump. Its AC and connected to main solar. No DC pumps, had bad luck with the cheap Shurflo one.
I have filter on the exit of the cistern. similar to this https://www.amazon.com.mx/Screen-Irrigation-Stainless-Gardening-Agriculture/dp/B06XJ3FWVW
Berkey water filters to drink the well water
there is high turbitity and iron content. So for the washing machines and hot shower I have a smaller container that i fill and feeds solar water heater. I put in a floculant/clarifier to make everything settle to the bottom to have the cleanest water possible to wash clothes with. Whites come out nice, wife is happy.
This is not going to be cheap if you intend to run everything you currently have. Batteries have come down in price, but are still not cheap. How much everything else will cost will depend on how much you want to DYI it.
An extension cord and a hose will be your cheapest option.
You can get a power meter from most hardware stores or online. Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Consumption-Electricity-Analyzer-Overload-Protection/dp/B07M9KJRKP
I use this point-to-point from my hardwired router. Setup was very straight forward. Plug the Cat 5/6 from the antenna into your computer and work away.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K683V0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It won't work well and I'm not aware of any inverter in which it will work at all. Just get an $11 charge controller and an old car battery, even one that barely holds a charge, when the sun is shining you just need a little bit of storage to even out the flow.
The cam lock one is the one you need OP. The twist on one's won't fit.
A buddy snaked an extension cord (female end) out to his camper bumper and stored it "in the bumper" so he could pull it out with the plastic end cap.
Then he cut the male end off the cord and wired it to the inverted. When he goes boondocking he has a $25 120 volt 20 amp to 50 amp converter (The thing you twist onto your RV's 50 amp plug that lets you plug it into a regular extension cord. And just plugs that female end into the existing power system.
All he had to do was fish tape an extension cord inside the camper to the back end and out a hole he then sealed with epoxy or whatever. drilled a hole in the bumper and get it in there (with plastic grommet so sharp metal don't screw it up) and then left enough wire in the bumper to plug into the normal power inlet.
This is exactly the way your are getting a ground fault (which by the way is often a bad hot water heating element. you will actually have to unwire the element (turning the breaker off won't work) to test if that is the source of the ground fault, just fyi. Also did you make sure your "hot side" E.g. line and neutral are correct that might set off your GFI as well. e.g. you have the two wires wired backward into the inverter (on the output side) one should be line and one neutral.
- This is a safe and reliable way to do it. You don't want to put power the wrong way through a plug ever as that will eventually cause really bad things to happen.
I just sit them on a table, or you could hang them. I like that I can move them, so if I want to sit them by the window, I can either turn it to exhaust the air out or turn it so it brings in fresh air. Also working on a solar run UVC light to kill mold and bacteria. Thinking of using this set up. Have to order it and try it. https://www.amazon.com/Prettyia-Controller-Inverter-Complete-Generation/dp/B096ZWRDM4/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=235PZBFKDSWI&dchild=1&keywords=solar+panel+charge+controller+with+inverter&qid=1624227144&sprefix=solar+panel+charge+controller...
I’d like to add a couple things here, since you’re in an apartment and if you start dabbling you can cause serious damage.
First and foremost, never plug the power you end up generating into your outlets. If you’re using an inverter to convert your batteries to AC power the AC power will be out of phase and the result of trying to combine them will probably burn the place down in a giant snapping electrical arc of doom.
Second...do buy a big battery and an inverter large enough to supply some basic needs and simply charge the batteries with grid power when it is available. You can buy a nice sized solar generator easily enough that combines solar an inverter and a battery (Joe rogan advertises one on his show for instance).
Like this. I did my own solar setup but you don’t have to and this is a clean option for your case! It is also about as expensive as what my setup cost me (although I have more capacity in the end).
Jackery Solar Generator 1000, Explorer 1000 and 2X SolarSaga 100W with 3x110V/1000W AC Outlets, Solar Mobile Lithium Battery Pack for Outdoor RV/Van Camping, Emergency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P2Q83BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NFQQQ5MRYNACXYKAQCBK
You can find a dashboard solar panel that plugs into the cigarette plug in the car. It has saved me on more than a few occasions over the years, giving me enough to at least get the engine started after being in the sun for a while.
Something like this
A cell phone booster can really help. I bought a similar model to this and went from zero reception to full LTE bars with 2.8 Mbps. You want to use something like cellmapper.net to find the direction to your nearest provider's cell tower. You also want to make sure that your phone and the booster both support the specific cellular bands from that tower. The booster in this model draws about 5W which isn't much so you can run that all day without draining your batteries much.
You have a couple of options. I'm trenching fiber about 500 feet but I'm trenching already so no biggie. https://www.fs.com/products/50147.html
If you don't want to trench and you're fine with using wifi, try a range extender. This one has an rj45 connection on it, so you can plug a cable from your laptop, Meraki, or whatever into it. How that extender can make use of another wifi coming from somewhere else is another problem you'll need to sort out.
I've used bits like this to cut circles in exterior sheeting:
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-561-Multipurpose-Cutting-Bit/dp/B00004UDIB/ref=sr_1_2
I live off grid and consume very economically at 5kWh per day, so I have a 20kWh battery bank. I think a 250 Wh (0.25kWh) battery would not be useful except maybe to recharge a phone. I live where I do not need heat, but I heat water and cook with propane. The electrical power is for computers, lights, refrigeration, water pumps, and washing clothes for two people. For heat, you absolutely do not want to operate on battery power. I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Heater-MH9BX-Massachusetts-approved-portable-Propane/dp/B000JT7IGQ/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=buddy+heater+propane&qid=1613587645&sr=8-5 with a hose adapter to a 20-pound cylinder.
Ah the Mojave. I might have to hit you up for advice one day! The work shed is a much more feasible problem. Look up Trombe wall. A retrofitted south facing wall would have the building nice and warm in no time and with minimal cost to the wallet. Or if growing food is your thing, a sunroom with considerations on the varying angle of the sun throughout the seasons (to not overheat in the summer) https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_solar_building_design would be a simple addition to heat the room and be a way to have a head start on plants like tomatoes. I've seen a simple polycarbonate or fiberglass lean to on the side of a garden shed in Mariposa that was plenty warm even in winter and was chock full of seedlings and young plants. The resources are a great place to start, just start with insolation and the rest is just dimensional analysis until you get the value you are looking for. Another resource is this exceptionally detailed book which is beyond your application but would be the go to place for the various solar concepts and theories. https://www.amazon.com/Principles-Solar-Engineering-Second-Goswami/dp/1560327146
I've been looking at getting a Skypoint Trail Camera like THIS to monitor my trees and a pergola. It apparently has a free cell plan which is the main benefit. I don't need any other monitors since the weather data from nearby sources are accurate enough.
If you are in the Mojave and do a custom system, I'd measure ground winds. I'm near Crucero, CA and ground winds are my main concern for planning structures.
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
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A freezer also gives you the flexibility of running an external thermostat to control the power to the freezer so that you can up the temperature and use it as a refrigerator only at any point in the future. I do this at my property with a chest freezer that operates for me as a refrigerator while I am there. Simple to reverse this by removing the device and plugging the freezer directly into the wall.
This is the device I am using:
This separating seat has worked well for us:
https://www.amazon.com/Separett-Privy-Kit-folding-seat/dp/B01N3YYG9Q
You could maybe buy it or copy the design
I can buy 16ah lifepo4 for less than these. Awful price. For $350 buy a lifepo4 100ah battery.
https://www.amazon.com/4000-15000-Batteries-Charging-lifetime-Trolling/dp/B092R4JS3W
Midea 8,000 BTU U-Shaped Smart Inverter Window Air Conditioner–Cools up to 350 Sq. Ft., Ultra Quiet with Open Window Flexibility, Works with Alexa/Google Assistant, 35% Energy Savings, Remote Control
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08677DCKN/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_Z1E59NSPJYM6METRJHXM_0
I have two of them and can confirm, they sip power.
They are essentially mini splits in window unit form.
I'm not off grid though, still working on that part.
Hello I live in Cuba and I have in my church a westinghouse generator. The 9500 runninng watss. The ats I have is the Linked one. WHAT CAN I DO TO GET the generator start and stop with something so basic as the ats I have. The problem is as living un Cuba we have no Money to buy something and here in Cuba is very dificult to find the articles you mention to build a Real good starter. Please help.my ats
Hello there. I live in Cuba and I have a westinghouse generator the 12500 Watts/ 9500 runnings. But the ats I have is the picture one. So. Can anyone help me to conect the gen to the ats to it start and stop When the main power supplay fails??my ats
Hello there. I live in Cuba and I have a westinghouse generator the 12500 Watts/ 9500 runnings. But the ats I have is the picture one. So. Can anyone help me to conect the gen to the ats to it start and stop When the main power supplay fails??my ats
Help!!!!!!!!! I have a westinghouse 9500c generator and a ATS. How can I make the gen start automatically usin the ats I have??? I live in Cuba a d it means that all I have. IT means I can't buy anything else!!!!!! Please help!!!
>Mr Heater Big Buddy heaters
Thanks for all of the good replies ! My Off Grid home does have propane plumbing BUT where I want this to be located, there is no propane plumbing and its not to be used for any length of time - I live in No California...
I live in 230 sq ft and have the Big Buddy. Wouldn't even consider getting the smaller model. https://smile.amazon.com/Heater-Big-Buddy-Portable-Propane/dp/B00FPL6CNS/ref=sr\_1\_7?crid=4SDNFW713GWW&keywords=mr+heater+big+buddy&qid=1668261347&s=home-garden&sprefix=mr+heater+big+buddy%2Cgarden%2C202&sr=1-7
you got it, this would do what you want i think with little effort
You could simply just buy another ‘dumb’ battery and a cigarette adapter with alligator clips to plug into the cigarette port on the generator. That would keep the dumb battery charged and give the heater time to do its safety shut down once the generator runs out of power. This was exactly my set up before I got a wood stove.
I was intending to use a battery like this
But it appears that it's not up to the job so I guess I can use a car battery instead.
Thank you, do you think iIcould use something like this and solar panels to keep a car battery topped off?
This is the type of mobile battery I was intending to use
Also very much following for ideas, as I have a similar want/need/desire for consistency. In my case, more of a forgetful child + visitors issue
Anyway, I have thought of an idea of a hopper with a dual action pull/push mechanism to fill some container of the right size (pull, it closes the hopper/entrance, and opens the bottom which dumps in the bucket. Push closes the bottom, reopens the top so container is refilled.
That's likely the way I'll go.. that said, the geek in me wants to do this with an Arduino/ raspberry pi hooked to a photocell, that triggers a stepper motor to either do the mechanics above, or some rotation dispenser (similar to a fish feeder).
I also wonder if adopting something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Speaker-Communication-Monitoring-Remotely/dp/B0968GKC2V/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=67818232535&dplnkId=3ad49cce-079b-47d5-837e-d3528d0bf37a&gclid=CjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1GvfCX-HCdlQY1UDQLx-6_OgBfIHuNAcskc... ) could be interesting, although I'm not sure the whole "webcam in the bathroom" thing would be wise..
in either case, I do think having a user-friendly manual option would be essential..
That pump should be fine though I’m not familiar with the brand. I live alone so 50psi 3gpm is sufficient for my needs.
I’ve been using shurflo pumps for 25 years and the cheaper flojet pumps for maybe 10 years. I’ve never had a pressure tank and all my pumps are still running. I have driven tankless heaters, sinks, showers, lawn sprinklers and I wash my truck with one.
This is the most recent pump I acquired ($88 today)
https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-R3526144D-RV-Water-Pump/dp/B08RQLSXVR/
I have 440 gal of rainwater storage/35’ pex behind the cabin and 165 gal of potable storage/25’ of pex in the garage and a pump for each. The pumps are inside the cabin where they can’t freeze which means they have a long draw. A tee off the rainwater pump drives an outdoor hose.
Unless you have access to pretty constant wind speeds of 25 km/h or greater, a wind turbine really is not worth it. Also, with a Tiny house on wheels, you really will not have a good option for mounting a wind turbine high enough to be effective. Solar is going to be much better.
The hardest times will be Nov-Jan when it looks like Belgium gets only around 50 hours of sunshine per month. You will need a large enough battery bank to got you through those times when you have multiple cloudy days in a row and enough solar panels to fully recharge when you finally do get some sun.
The alternative is to have a slightly smaller system but then have a backup generator that can recharge when there isn't enough sun. The benefit here is that you can start off with a slightly smaller solar/battery system and then expand it in the years to come so that you have to run the generator less often as time goes on. But the key part is going to be limiting the amount of electrical devices you need and then making those very efficient. A very small refrigerator, efficient use of small LED lights, and no big desktop computers, just small tablets instead.
For heat, you will want to get a wood stove. And with the right stove, you can use this for cooking during the winter during the times when you have a limited amount of solar power.
Speakers are going to be your biggest problem trying to be minimalist and using a monitor instead of a dedicated TV. Monitors don’t have remotes. CEC will turn the monitor on and off with the source. The Roku or Chromecast can be used 100% with just the phone apps on WiFi.
I’ve ended up with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093R6C6B4/
A DC-DC boost converter delivers a perfect 19volts from my 12volt system with very little loss.
I have a cheap Bluetooth speaker with a line in cable that charges off USB, so 12v hookup is easy. I listen to music via Bluetooth much more that watching TV.
I'd take a hard look at this Insignia 24-inch Class F20 Series Smart Full HD 1080p Fire TV on sale for half price right now.
> elllies 600w inverter/ups with charge
If this manual is accurate for you model the Absorption voltage is 14.4v and float is 13.7v. Check with the battery manual to see what the suggested charging spec is for the ones you are considering.
The 10/20A charging rates shown are within gel's typical min/max current specs. But do check the specific batt's specs as above.
IMO 600w of charging is about right for gel. Many gel specs
> I’d need a 125ah 12v battery. I am looking at gel batteries for their higher cycle counts
The 125Ah gels I've found run from ~$250 (low end) to ~$650 (high end).
125Ah of lead-chemistry like gel, in terms of usuable Ah, is about 78Ah of LiFePO4.
Dunno what the SA market is like, but rIght now the Weize 100Ah is $299 on Amazon US at the moment and has a favorable tear-down video by Will Prowse. So LFP might be closer in price than it first appears.
Powermate PM3000i P0080601 Gas Inverter Generator 3000 Watt 50 ST, Powered by Generac - I have the 2200 watt version and it works great.
Short-term solution: As others have said, a little portable washer and spinner. A couple YouTubers living off-grid in Alaska use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XQRXCF
It's out of stock, but there are many similar ones available.
Long-term: Off-grid doesn't have to mean suffering. I live a pretty normal existence off-grid. My wife would not sacrifice any convenience, ever, no matter what. On the other hand, I could basically camp for ever.
I'd be looking at the water system, including septic, first. Just making sure there is a viable plan, as it could have the most impact on your plans for the future. It could be, hopefully not, that building at a different site on the property is necessary.
The solar system and water source probably have less potential for surprises, compared to water disposal.
I collect rainwater and use 2lb plastic coffee cans, 3gal, and 5gal buckets and 15gal barrels to wash everything from smells to blankets. I use regular old liquid Tide. I let them soak a few hours or even days if I’ve added oxyclean.
I have an umbrella rack in the yard for summer and have fitted some pvc pipes across the shower for drying clothes in winter.
All the wastewater goes down the sink drain and into the forest.
After 10 years of hand wringing I finally popped for a crank wringer and I am very happy with it. It’s $159 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Calliger-Crank-Clothes-Wringer-Rollers/dp/B00OAPW6GM/
I also bought a plunger similar to this, the one I got was discontinued but they’re about the same price. I’m not crazy about it and it’s usually easier to just use my hands, they can break if you get too carried away. https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Washer-Portable-Clothes-Agitator/dp/B084D2FRZ8/
Laundry is a big pita offgrid and if I had the space to install one inside where it couldn’t freeze I’d get a regular washer. Even if I didn’t have enough solar and had to run it off my honda generator it’d be worth it imo. A gas dryer not so much.
We just used a 5 gallon water jug like you refill at the grocery store. For like $20 bucks, there's a little spout and stand we got on amazon. We'd just fill that up somewhere on our way (it's a 5.5 hour drive) or our first trip into town when we got there if we knew we had something we were going to be needing in town anyways. Usually the 5 gallons would last us a whole week's visit if we were careful with it.
Now we have a well but the habit still stands. We fill up the 5 gal from the well and that's our "kitchen water" until the house is further along and we have some real plumbing. Haven't tested the well water yet. It's on the list. But none of the locals treat their water so it just hasn't been a priority.
You need a AD-DC rectifier with a variable input voltage. Here is one that is 85V-110V, which might work in your situation but as others have said your votage might drop once you put a load on it. I would then run that to a charge controller that will protect the batteries from getting over charged.
There no options for consumer grade stuff though there are some cheaper units for techs.
This $311 one logs up to 1000 samples, timing is programmable down to 1-second per sample. Data has to be downloaded to your pc via usb using their software. https://www.amazon.com/Extech-DL150-Voltage-Current-Datalogger/dp/B004WN69NI
Do you have a large AC system that might be sagging your voltage down? You just need to watch voltage, many cheap options https://www.amazon.com/BTMETER-Multimeter-Auto-Ranging-Resistance-Measuring/dp/B07C238GTP/
We have a reservoir from a spring, basically a small pond. It flows down to a whole house filter. We use that water for most things. But for drinking water, it goes into this filter here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKGLQTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 We have been using it for years to drink and never had a problem.
hey, i will start with some retaining ponds this fall and i bought this little book here: Amazon: Water Storage by Art Ludwig
it is by far not complete (and is not pretending to be) but gives a good overview of solutions and also gives a good amount of points to think about before starting a project. definitely worth checking out.
So far about your plan i join the two points: 1. will your ground/soil hold water? 2. overflow design: you need to have an emergency overflow for worst case scenarios (downpours) that is usually dry, so it is NOT the same overflow as the "normal" overflow where exceeding water coming from your creek pipe goes. the infinity edge sounds cool (although not very typical for nature integrated ponds) but i think you can only do it with concrete, otherwise material will be washed away, as others mentioned.
Dewalt makes a 12 volt charger for their batteries. I have it and it works well. But it's like $100! If someone could figure out how to make one, I'd love to see it. I only have the one and wish I could have a few more, but I'm not paying that price again. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCB119-12-Volt-20-Volt-Vehicle/dp/B0052MINWS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=dewalt+12v+battery+charger&qid=1662252501&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0
We got this style. It's been a champ.
(sorry if this ends up double posted. Automod removed it because i used a shortened link)
I've been using a Wilson Electronics SignalBoost DT 463105 for ten years. I works great for both my cell phone & internet connection, though if I were buying today I'd get a 5G compatible model.
I got two 5 gallon food grade buckets, got the filter element from Amazon, drilled a hole and fill the top one with water and get filtered water from the bottom one. It works great, you get 4~4.5 gallons of storage and you can put a tap on the lower one.
I got the candle filter with real silver in it, but I should have got the dome one. They aren't fast, but you can maybe put 3 candle types in the upper bucket and IDK how many of the dome types will fit.
You want the gravity feed type so that you don't have to have pressure and you can wash them with hot water and a nylon brush when they slow down.
This style would be better because the candle uses mostly the bottom as the water level drops, However, you can fit more of the candle types in a bucket.
You can find food grade buckets at Home Depot. My filter didn't come with the nut, so I threaded the bucket, but that only works so well. You need a good seal.
You can make a pump setup or use larger buckets, even some stainless bins would work.
I'm looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Clear-Cellophane-Gift-Wrap/dp/B01BXFWX7S/ref=sr_1_35_sspa
I may have to melt it to itself to make it wider. I am concerned about 2.5mil durability, but anything is better than buying bottled water (which is way more plastic than this btw) Its crazy how until 2004, saran wrap was PVDC, and even still they use PVDC for meat even though it has chloride content that is harmful to health that I wouldnt want here, but a better oxygen barrier so its allowed.
The Amazon reviews don't mention the 1000w being split between the outlets, but /u/sunnysouthtexas might be onto something.
I've had devices that didn't work on some inverters and did on others. In particular a 200w electric blanket that would trip one particular 300w PSW about 90% of the time, but never any others.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Complete-Book-Self-Sufficiency-realists/dp/0751364428
This covers most things you mention.
This isn't the book you are really looking for, but this is the book that got me into off-grid. And you can always look through it when things are tough and realize, it's still a lot easier than it was. The illustrations are amazing as well. https://www.amazon.com/Diary-Early-American-Boy-Americana/dp/0486436667
Awesome thank you, I will do that calculation! I figured it was times.
So despite the reputation of these little batteries, I found this 12v one: https://www.amazon.com/BLAVOR-Portable-Wireless-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07RZSFRRF/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2P3DCO42F8WES&keywords=12v%2Bsolar%2Bbattery%2Bphone%2Bcharger&qid=1660945950&smid=A3587HXKN8D5H0&sprefix=12v%2Bsolar%2Bbattery%2Bphone%2Bcharge%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-2-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySEdHVU9GNlIzSFZaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjg1NTczMVZRVEZNTzJXRkhVUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzUxNTYyMk40Q0Q3TzlDNjZYMyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Would this work through a USBA to Barrel connector that is 12v compatible?
Thanks!
Interesting, Its so hard for me to understand but: If the current coming out of the usb from the battery is 5v, its incompatible with the Pump since it draws at 12v. so there would need to be something installed in the power cable to decrease the current. So whatever this pulls 5vs out of the battery comfortably, and accelerates it up to 12v properly to feed the 12v of the Water Pump? This battery is 10ah or 10000mah so would a 5000mah 5ah battery better? I thought that just meant the Juice it can hold
What would be a battery with a higher rate of discharge? Something like this since it says 12v?, https://www.amazon.com/BLAVOR-Portable-Wireless-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07RZSFRRF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3PC0A5PD7YX7X&keywords=solar%2Bbattery%2Bphone%2Bcharger%2Bportable%2B12v&qid=1660943787&smid=A3587HXKN8D5H0&sprefix=solar%2Bbattery%2Bphone%2Bcharger%2Bportable%2B12%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVkVQQVEyV0xRSVBCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQ2MjQ4NDREMFYzTFlINFFKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNTE1NjIyTjRDRDdPOUM2NlgzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Thanks allot! Saving me from a Battery firework show
I figure 10,000mah is enough that's allot of power. here is the link to the pump, its really nothing strong. It has a barrel connector, I am trying to replace the wall plug side of the cable with a Usb if possible. Its the only output on the Battery, there is also a Micro usb Input and a Type C input. https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A014A-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01FXDUQR0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1UKVFW73R49XK&keywords=small+2.1gpm+water+pump&qid=1660847316&sprefix=small+2.1gpm+water+pump%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-3
I haven't done it myself but I would put clothes out to dry outside. I'll do it inside if humidity is high or it's so cold the water in the clothes will freeze instead of evaporate.
I'm also considering an extra spin dryer manual or electric. https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Portable-Dryer-22lbs-Stainless/dp/B01IRMBG7I/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=manual%2Bclothes%2Bspinner&qid=1660673319&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1
The one above I found is 300 watts and runs for 5minutes per cycle but I assume it will require two cycles.
Two cycles x 300 watts x 5 min/per cycle = 50 Wh = 0.05 kWh per small load. Only some clothes will benefit from this extra cycle.
The manual spin devices could be useful too and some exercise for you too :)
This extra spin dry will shorten the time needed hang dry outside and if inside reduce the humidity need to be removed by your homes ERV.
Again, I think the a major "key" to recommending a sol'n for you is related to your constraints (read $ or power)
If it was me, and $ was the issue (and had a decent power source) you could pipe something like this into the tote:
Aquarium filter which will cycle 525gph, include charcoal filtration (you have to source the activated carbon) and includes course/fine screening and include a 9w UV lamp ($10 bulb replacement @ ~2-3 years).
That said this is totally a "hill billy" solution but its under a $150 and you are up and running.
Second the Unique brand. I have the solar refrigerator they sell and it runs great and uses much less electricity than I though it would. For cooking now we use a simple two burner and have no venting for it. And same, CO2 detectors never go off. Once we get the kitchen built I'm getting this exact Unique stove as well.
I have 2 mighty max 100ah in a 24v set up and a single 100ah Chins LiPo4. Prices fell and then are creeping up. I'd really look hard at going to Lipo sooner than later.
First, I'm off-grid with Solar PV, batteries, and a backup generator. I enjoy having enough electricity to communicate with people on the internet, and to listen to streaming radio stations.
Using wood as your main energy supply for cooking and heating will require a LOT of wood.
I've got a cast iron wood-burning kitchen range - it cooks, it heats the house, and it's got a boiler for hot water as well. I go through a ton (1000kg/2200lb) of firewood per month in spring+winter+autumn, and in about 6 weeks in summer - it runs 24x7 for three-quarters of the year, and I do a burn every 2 or 3 days in summer for hot water. It's a hungry beast and I wouldn't be able to harvest and process that much timber by myself - so I pay for someone else to do it.
I've also got a two-burner gas cooktop for summer (LPG, not propane).
Living completely without electricity is a life of hard labour.
Washing clothes by hand in a tub. Using a hand wringer, and hanging on a line to dry.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Crank-Clothes-Wringer-Calliger-Rollers/dp/B00OAPW6GM
Sweeping instead of vacuuming.
All food prep by hand, or with hand operated machinery. No mixer, no blender. Kneading bread by hand. No refrigeration (unless you have an ice box).
"Frontier House" was an early reality TV-style series where three groups were taken to a remote spot in Montana to live american frontier-style. Apart from the usual manufactured drama, it's quite interesting and would answer many of your questions.
Battery powered fans and ice packs or wet cloths maybe?
I have one that does inverting, generator charging, and solar charging in one unit. This is actually the same inverter that Midnight Solar sells as its DIY line, but at much cheaper prices. It is rebranded under many different brands but are exactly the same inside.
https://smile.amazon.com/Charge-Inverter-Built-Controller-Shipping/dp/B09QSLZTC3/
Seems to work fine. Note that this is a 24v model but they also make other voltages as well.
I would highly suggest a very low power solar pump at the lake that just pumps "all day" and then a "tank" at the house with a return line to the lake. E.g. tank is full water just flows back down.
the "run" doesn't matter so much as the change in elevation. IS that 100 feet vertical? or like 10 vertical feet and 80 horizontal, etc.
To get "Water pressure." Look into a tank you get a "well water pressure tank" and basically a booster pump will pump tank water into the "pressure tank" when it's low and the pressure tank will supply the house with "Water pressure" so that the booster tank does not have to run all the time.
So something like a 1/2" piece of tubing or pipe run to a storage tank. Put a solar panel + battery + pump at the lake.
- So long as the pump can pump MORE than your average daily water usage you will be fine.
Take into considerations frost lines / freezing with this as well.
for example here is some stuff :
- pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MG5YW7W
- solar panels you can source yourself with mppt or pwm charge controller
- Low power cut off circuit (turns off pump when battery is low) https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ
- In addition to this I would have a "timer" that simply runs off the battery and opens or closes a relay. /r/arduino would be fine for this. $10arduino + $3 relay. This would then only allow the pump to run from like 9am to 4pm or whatever so that the morning and evening the battery can change without the pump trying to run it over and over. Also as time goes on you can adjust this timer so that your pump only runs the number of hours you need to to replenish water. E.g. if it use "5 hours" worth of water a day you can just set it to run for 12-5. etc.
USB rechargeable fans! This style in particular. I swear they're as good if not better and quieter than an old school box fan. https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Personal-Rechargeable-Operated-Red/dp/B08R6V84VJ/
Many charge controllers come with USB built right into them. Otherwise you can use any 12V to USB adapter [like this].(https://www.amazon.com/Tecreddy-2-Pack-Converter-Adapter-Step-Down/dp/B09B2Y71F7/) If you want to be super power efficient, put a toggle switch between the USB device and the battery. Many of these devices are using power to convert from 12V to 5V (USB) even when no charging is occurring.
Sizing the panel and battery is completely dependent on how many devices will use it, and how many during night time hours. 30-50w panel with a motorcycle battery sounds good for a modest amount of devices and rare night time charging. You can only charge about 2 smartphones (15wh) with a motorcycle battery (30wh usable).
The speed of charging you offer could affect the needs as well if there is a steady stream of people using it. If you have two people QC/PD fast charging at a time people can top their phones up fast and on to the next person, which could exceed your charging, especially on cloudy days. You could offer slow speed 5w USB charging if you want the solar/battery needs to be lower and less convenient for a steady stream of users.
As far as build, I think you have generally the right idea. Panel, battery, charge controller, USB, secure box. Not too complicated. Wire the USB to the load terminals of your charge controller so you can have a low voltage disconnect in order to not damage the battery. For USB, I would probably use an automotive surface mount one like this or this.
Power in at top and bottom. Power out at front and sides. Like this.
Also, get a reference book, because a) knowing where the wires attach isn't all you need to think about; and b) asking simple questions on reddit is flypaper for condescension and abuse.
I bought one off amazon ($40 at the time) and used it for a while. It worked ok (net effort slightly less than hand-wringing). I ended up donating it to goodwill because it took up too much space in my campervan.
The main benefit of the mop wringer was the ability to pour rinsewater over, squeeze, pour a little more, squeeze.
If they weren't so $$ I'd love to have a roller wringer that mounts on the receiver hitch. Last one I saw was $300. :-(
Yeah could be, I have a few reusable traps around the property that are filled with bait/water and they’ve been very effective.
RESCUE! POP! Fly Trap – Large Reusable Fly Trap for Outdoor Use
Pump Water Diaphragm Self Priming Pump 3.0 Gallons/min (11.3 Lpm) 45 PSI New Rv / Marine 12 Volt Dc / 12 V Demand Fresh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P8BE6S8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J4CDH50Z2WHD4JYFCRE7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For the hoses, i just got 20" long 1/2" x1/2" standard faucet connections. Probably should have gotten 30" for the inlet though (the hose that goes into the bucket
I recently found this:
A great way to keep your battery bank healthy.
I use this foot pump, there are others out there that cost less but this one is the one. There was one installed in my sailboat in 1977 and it finally broke in 2010. I had a spare one so I replaced it and ordered the part from amazon to fix it for about $15 iirc. That old pump is now working like brand in my cabin.
https://smile.amazon.com/Whale-GP0550-Freshwater-Pedal-Operated-Right-Side/dp/B000FHQL6K/
I have not personally tried this, but I have heard of people using Prius water pumps and being happy with them. Cheap as well:
my price shows 386.79 with free delivery.
Yeah found this, may work: https://www.amazon.ca/Coghlans-0061-Bug-Jacket-X-Large/dp/B001OHUW56
Long sleeves/pants are kind of unrealistic when it's summer and I'm doing work, but wonder if this will work or if they'll still bite through the screen.
Hard to do when it's super hot out though!
I guess repellent is the best way to go, or maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Coghlans-0061-Bug-Jacket-X-Large/dp/B001OHUW56
Says it even works against ticks too which I heard we might have here. though I feel the mesh would need to be VERY fine for it to work against those.
Could use these 2 parts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HN673G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_HCDNAQSX3PD4RKSYKEQV
Do oversize the relay a bit for the ac side/load or it will get hot and burn up if/when run constantly for too long/on hot days.
Maybe get the dock and a receiver without the vehicle mounting kit?
Order Will's book, it's only $5 right now in paperback format (it's a large paperback). I paid $15 for it last year, and it's $15 well spent. A total steal at $5.xx
It's got diagrams, and all kinds of great info. I watch his YT channel also, but it's great to have a hard copy of info that I need to reference.
Mobile Solar Power Made Easy!: Mobile 12 volt off grid solar system design and installation. RV's, Vans, Cars and boats! Do-it-yourself step by step instructions. https://www.amazon.com/dp/1546567119/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2B4W60C72QP0WYW08WCC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can't do long sleeves period it's just way too hot! I guess I need to pick between being eaten alive or sweating like mad.
I just found this on amazon wonder how well it works or if they'll still just bite me through the mesh: https://www.amazon.ca/Coghlans-0061-Bug-Jacket-X-Large/dp/B001OHUW56
A cheap solar system with "panels" that will keep lights on and a phone charged can be had for less than $200.
Here's an example.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013BBD70O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You don't want a timer. A timer does not know when the well is dry and you will burn up the pump. Several companies make controllers that detect when the pump is sucking air and shut it down. If you don't know what the pump is, call up your local well company and have them look at it. They can also install the controller. Here is one, but it might not be the right one for your pump. https://www.amazon.com/PumpSaver-233P-1-5-ENCL-SymCom-Yield-Protection/dp/B00WT2TMFQ/
I guess they updated it because I can't get to the item from my order history.
It's a camplux, similar to this:
Camplux 5L Outdoor Portable Water Heater, 1.32 GPM Tankless Propane Gas Water Heater for RV, Camping, Barns, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z8D2XZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NRTH9M3TXT72F7TP59V6
We've had it for a little over 4 years now with daily use.
It's never given me any problems.
It's great for an off grid situation because it uses D batteries to ignite the flame so no power line needs to be ran. The batteries have been the same pair for the entire time.
Here's an example of a charge controller with a dump.
https://www.amazon.com/Marsrock-Controller-Generator-Charging-Function/dp/B0827Q9MTL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=solar+charge+controller+with+dump&qid=1648084214&sprefix=charge+controller+with+dump%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-3
NOTE: I am not endorsing this product, I don't know anything about it.
I'm just using it to illustrate a point.
Thermacell Portable Mosquito Repeller; Highly Effective Mosquito Repellent; Includes 12 Hours of Long Lasting Refills; No Spray, No DEET, No Open Flame; Scent-Free Bug Spray Alternative https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBPSB5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_25ECH1P163A821SG8QGR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They have some that screw on top of a gas canister too
If your laptop charges with a USB-C plug you could run it with two power banks, and two portable solar chargers probably. Especially if you say there's plenty of sun. For example two each of these should get you at least twelve hours a day notebook time. (You could probably even get an adaptor from USB-C to your notebook if it has a proprietary plug)
Lots of youtube videos about this. Get this. Refill it from the 20lb tank so you can turn it upside down so the little can will fill.
I have a 5 gallon camping tote from Walmart under my sink connected to a marine foot pump and that goes to one of those small water spigots you can get for your sink that is intended for ‘purified’ water or something.
This is the pump, don’t try using one of the cheaper ones, they don’t last more than a season or two, the one I’m using was in the spares locker of my sailboat when I bought it 25 years ago and it’s been in here for 5 years - and it’s so good they still make parts for it: https://smile.amazon.com/Whale-GP0550-Freshwater-Pedal-Operated-Right-Side/dp/B000FHQL6K/
My water barrels are out in the ‘garage’ and my rainwater barrels are completely outside. My DC pumps are under the sink and they draw via pex. Here in SE TN the lines freeze once or twice per winter but for less than a week usually. If it was going to be longer I’d store more water for the foot pump.
I have seen some vanlifers try this and I have never been too confident in their filtration systems. If I were to do this, and not have portability as a requirement, then I would do it with a greywater biological cell system.
If you look on the second diagram on that page, I would just add a 10 micron filter and UV sterilizer in-line after the storage tank before the on-demand hot water heater.
Water is the only practical one, and at small scale only if you have a large natural basin readily available that you can use.
Try this calculator and convert mass and height into kwh: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/potential-energy
Lifting large blocks with cranes or traincars up a hill are other proposed solutions, but just check the math. You would need 50,000kg of mass raised up 100m in elevation to match the energy storage of just one Tesla Powerwall which costs about $10k (and there are cheaper options).
Fortunately, water is quite heavy, and cheap to move, you just need large storage 'containers'. If you had two olympic size swimming pools you would only need a 2 meter elevation difference between them to equal the storage (13.5kwh) of one Powerwall. If you had two ponds with 4x that amount of water, and 11 meter elevation difference, you would have a very large 300kwh 'battery'.
But unless you happen to have the perfect pond situation or a spare water-tower next to a spare olympic pool, none of this is very practical and you should thank your lucky stars for LiFePo4 batteries.
This. Here's a $10 circuit board that would be easy to wire in. Pull the on-off switch out of the inverter, extend those wires to the relay of this circuit board, and the voltage sensing terminals to the battery side of the inverter, then you can control when the inverter comes on and stays on with much greater precision.
This should help, I wouldn't expect 4 bars but 2 would be doable.
Try this
SureCall Flare Cell Signal Booster for Working from Home up to 2500 sq ft, Boosts 5G/4G LTE, Omni Outdoor Antenna, Multi-User All Carrier, Verizon AT&T Sprint T-Mobile, FCC Approved, USA Company https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS2KFS0
It's like $300 and you'll want to install the outside unit as high up as you can. I use a similar unit for backup internet. I used to get 3mbps maybe 4. Now I get 15 or so. It'll help with voice and text as well.