I have these on a teardrop camper we built, and they're actually too bright for that application. they fill up the campsite like a floodlight, although i guess that's what you want on a vehicle.
whatever you end up looking at, make sure you're speccing out how much electricity they need. 18W each at 12V is 1.5A each, which is a decent amount. they'll completely drain all my batteries in 12 hours or so, so I need to use them sparingly.
I use this thing: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Backyard-Grill-Portable-Charcoal-Grill-Black/37850137
Used it last night for fajitas. The legs fold up, securring the lid, so I just load it with charcoal/wood, close it, and stick it in the truck. All you need is a lighter and some meat. Very compact and lightweight.
In Moab, if the trail name sounds gnarly...it probably is. ie Metal Masher, Rusty Nail, Steel Bender, Hell’s Revenge...etc.
UTVs are pretty versatile depending on which ones you have but for the beginner off-road people in your group just be careful as you can get into a spicy situation really quick.
Know which trails you are doing each day, plan it out well in advance, and share your itinerary. Charles Wells books are great for this and he has a Moab Edition . I love reading up on trails and planning out each day with these books. They’re Super well done and great to bring along while you’re out there as they have GPS coordinates, waypoints, and write ups.
For an extra security blanket OnX Off-road is a great app to use while you’re out there as you can download maps offline and your phone will still ping your exact location on the map. Also shows public vs private lands
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K150X2E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm running 2 of these.
I use this dewalt one. It works great for me and it can be run off a 12v plug or a 20v tool battery.
Air down your tires to 15-20 psi. That'll be the best thing you can do for mitigating jarring bumps. The set I have are ancient and no longer produced, but I bought some of these for my friends. https://www.amazon.com/GODESON-Deflators-Offroad-Vehicles-Storage/dp/B07X8VY6QD/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=air+down+tire+deflators&qid=1656454491&sr=8-13
Fair warning, out of 4 sets two pieces were not machined well and I just had to drill em slightly. Was super easy, only had to remove a tiny bit of pressure to get them to release air as intended.
walk around, screw em on each valve stem. let em run for a few min, and when the first one gets to the desired air pressure, you know you can walk around and just unscrew the rest in turn.
Like others have said: air down. When you do get stuck in sand some kind of traction mat can get you out pretty easily https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5HYGDN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2010BSFQPPJ1JZ8F8W7T
Once your forward momentum stops, stop spinning the tires immediately. You're only going to dig a deeper hole. You can try reversing over your own tracks to get back to solid ground, but don't spin your tires.
The people you see powering through sand to get out typically have front, rear, and center lockers, bead lock rims, and they aren't asking for tips on reddit.
One final thing: if in doubt, have someone (a 150-200lb-ish adult) walk ahead of you. If their feet are sinking and they're having trouble walking, your truck isn't going to do much better.
This is the spacer kit I used ( Takeo Front 2.5" / Rear 2.5“... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KGNSQ9F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and it brought it up allot more then i thought it would honestly. Might need to get camber kit for rear ac delco makes these adjustable trailing arms. I been researching some high flow injectors and stuff but haven't found much on the engine performance side hence the reddit question lol.
The med kit is from Surviveware and I bought it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQ8JVC7/
The Molle panels are from here...
https://www.molle-platform-solutions.com/product-page/wk-rear-window-molle-panels
Thanks, will try this next weekend.
We did 68J https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/colorado/road-68j - nice but very short, maybe moderate difficulty.
Used a 3/8 shackle on my Xj (came on it) I’ll run the winch line out to a snack block and back. Works every time. Also hook them up with a bubba rope and have a friend yank me out of the mud. That said my Lj and Tj both have 5/8 shackles and it is a lot easier to hook up and not nervous to really hit them. Side note buy shackles from a rigging supply store near you and they will be better than a made in China Amazon part.
Maintenace, Make it reliable! Breaks, bearings, fluids. Nothing worse than a breakdown far from home. Especially if it was something cheaply preventable at home and results in a costly repair. Lockers! If you are not using 4wd on the road the best cheap option is a mechanical locker Detroit or Ox. They only lock under torque so in2 wheel drive nothing will change and it will get you further down the trail than any lift. Friends! They are cheaper and more fun than a winch. Grab a bubba rope and as long as your both not stuck it will save you. That said winch is great and you can use it alone. If you have a trailer hitch, you can get a basket mount until you have the time/money for bumpers. Good small tires are also going to be better than big bald ones. Also small tires will keep your axles in good shape till you can afford some upgrades.
I’d recommend installing an aftermarket transmission fluid cooler.
You can get them at the south parts store, they look like a small radiator.
Normally the transmission fluid runs through the bottom of your radiator to keep it cool but in this case that’s not cutting it so you need to upgrade the cooling provided to your transmission fluid.
The mini radiator kits can be installed in front of your regular radiator and you can either plumb it in line with the current transmission cooling loop the radiator or just cut the radiator out of the loop altogether and just use the cooler.
Here’s a link to what I am talking about.
Transmission Oil Cooler Kit Low Pressure Drop Max 40K GVW Replaces# LPD47391, 47391 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B096S6ZC9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_X1PW4QDVT81VN258WJ18?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I always carry one of those complete tool kits. Just something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Mechanics-Metric-135-Piece-CMMT12024/dp/B07ND1FVDP/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=craftsman+tool+kit&qid=1633005051&sr=8-8
Length of spare fuel line.
a basic electric tool kit (some wire, wire strippling pliers, electrical tape, various connectors, etc).
Jumper cables
Larger crescent wrench
Tow strap
Snatch strap
shackles (I have hard shackles but will eventually replace with soft for safety/weight/ease of use)
Medium length shovel (you'd rather have the leverage to dig than try doing recovery work with a short shovel).
Work gloves
max trax (Cheaper traction boards are prone to breaking and can become brittle in the sun over long term)
and if you're hell bent of off roading alone (I go with buddies 90% of the time, and if solo I avoid gnarly stuff), then you should also invest in a winch and a snatchblock or two and watch some videos on tricks you can use winching to get out of hairy situations. You can really do some gnarly stuff with physics if you have a winch and two snatch blocks. You can also use your spare tire under your winch line to change the angle of the winch to lift you up and out of mud suction. And, if you're winching, you'll need tree straps and a recovery damper blanket to toss on the line.
No, that's going to be in the 2m band, and technically you need a HAM license (or you need to be piggybacking on someone else's license) to operate on it.
Here's a cheap 2m band handheld.
I got a 3-pack of these.
Uses family radio service, so you don't need a license. Range isn't great, but it's fine car-to-car.
Also good for spotting, because my engine is so loud it's impossible to shout over.
I’ve been using and enjoying this style quick release keychain for years for this same reason.
Do yourself a favor and get a keyring that lets you do that with all your keys. I like the Patent Keyholder style, because the little posts let each key rotate however it wants, so they all can lie flat in my pocket.
But if you’ve got more than one vehicle, or have a bike lock you sometimes use, or want to leave your work keys at home on the weekend, something like this is really handy. Makes it easy to only carry what you need. (And the little post things won’t scratch up your motorcycle.)
I thought this was a bargain last year, especially with the ARB name.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5M6BM6/
$64 is so inexpensive, if it didn't have a name brand I would have passed!
Then replace the shocks and inspect the bushings to the control arms while you are at it. If you have been driving it three years and haven't noticed a need to change anything then replace it with OEM shocks.
Struts consist of a shock that holds the spring, all that really needs to be replaced is the shock inside the spring. There are two ways to do this the examples I linked to below are just for visual reference. You can choose the brands you want.
replace the front with a pre-assembled strut (they cost more but since the strut comes pre-assembled you just bolt them in place of the old ones)
Unbolt the strut assembly, disassemble the strut and replace the shock. (The shock is replaced and the old spring is reused. The spring will be under tension and has to be taken off with a special tool. (you might want help removing and installing the spring because it can be dangerous)
The rear shocks are the easiest to change, you just unbolt the old ones and swap in the new ones.
Hi. Search for a rope/strap that has elastic properties. A chain or a non-elastic strap is no good. Too hard on the vehicle and much more difficult to recover a vehicle without the elastic stretch.
Something like this would be fine: Mibro DitchPig 447051 Kinetic Energy Vehicle Recovery Double Nylon Braided Rope with Tote Bag, 1/2" x 20' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F39PBXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_az36Fb5V9BRMJ
I know this is an older thread but if you're still looking, I recently bought this on Amazon and love it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K25GMG
I have a ram power wagon that runs 60 psi on-road and I usually air down to around 35 offroad, though I would go lower if I were in sand. This is a little bigger than one of the mini cig lighter compressors so it's harder to stuff under a seat, but airing up only takes about 20 minutes total to get back to 60 psi. Those cheap little 12v compressors just take forever - they're good for an emergency tire fix if necessary but they're not built for consistent use on big tires.
Thanks! I got it off Amazon, it's 4"x30ft and rated for 20k lb breaking and about 7k lb working. Although now that I type that, I probably should have gotten something with a higher working strength...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I60HV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> Ultimately, what you want is a compressor made for filling up offroad tires after a run. Not just any 12v compressor. Most of the cheap ones that plug into 12v sockets and have fancy features like auto-shutoff are meant for filling a low tire once or twice a year. Not filling 4 big tires that are all down 20 psi.
That's definitey something I'm seeing and kinda what brought me here. I've been looking at all kinds of compressors, including the VIAIR. I've watched a couple of reviews on YouTube. But it seems there's the weird gap between "slow, cheap, fills a tire a couple of times/year" and "monster, ubercompressor that can fill 3 full sets of 40s simultaneously with no breaks - and also powers your air lockers."
I was actually looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00088-88P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B005ASY23I/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=tire+air+compressor+viair&qid=1587149148&sr=8-3. It has pretty good reviews on Amazon & YouTube.
They make a removal tool. It will ruin the nut put it will get it off. It’s a reverse screw of sorts. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bolt-out-Piece-Damaged-Remover/dp/B007C6KKAK/ref=br_lf_m_r79juzyjjo4e39a_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi
Interested. Do you have more details? A website? How do they compare to the competition?
I've got a bunch of hits for several "Alpha LED Light Bar". Are these the same ones? (i.e. this )
I have a 2002dakota Under the grill there are gaps for a transmission cooler a 15" bar will fit there perfectly I'll send you a link of the one I have It's amazing Xtreme® Off Road 12V 72W LED Spot Light 15" Work Light Bar ATV 4x4 Jeep Polaris Offroad Tractor Marine Truck Raptor Super Bright https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNNQLZA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_35PRub1GC2MN1
Edit:added link