https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LM0U2S This should do the trick for you, and the terminology in the Amazon listing should help you find competitive products. However, I've just put it one of these on my birthday wish list for this year; I don't have one yet and don't know how it sounds. There are higher quality things available, but they'd obviously cost more.
The Sony bookshelf speakers are on sale right now for $73 down from $150. From what I’ve heard they’re not worth the 150 price tag but at 73 they’re very competitive. I would say the probably have a more well rounded sound profile than the klipsch speakers. Limited-time deal: Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker System (Pair) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8YLMVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_Y470J0K8D060YVYNW03B
Edit: the pro media 2.1 is also a great option. At this price range if you don’t want to expand later in the future.
There are some fairly good choices in your budget but the size limit is tough and limits things immensely.
About the only good choice in that size and budget is the Edifier R33BT.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-Active-Bluetooth-Computer-Speakers/dp/B08HCBMSTP/
I personally would prefer one of the larger powered speakers from Edifier.
Only powered speakers I know about that accept e-arc are the Klipsch Fives.
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Powered-Speaker-System-HDMI-ARC/dp/B08KYNYJ8D
I would go with a basic AV receiver and passive speakers
I use one of these. Input from computer, output to speakers on one port and headphones on the other. Tap button to switch between outputs. Has a volume dial but I don't use it since I have a k70 keyboard with a volume dial on it.
With the R1280T, you use something like this USB DAC. You'd plug your PC into it via USB, the speakers into the RCA red & white in the back, and your headphones and mic into the front.
If you want to upgrade, technology has progressed a bit in the decade since the TP-30 came out.
Take a look at the Topping MX5
https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-MX5-Amplifier-ES9018Q2C-Bluetooth/dp/B09NXS824P/
two solid options at either end of your budget:
micca pb42x $109.99
edifier r1700bt $179.99
edifier has models above and below that price point as well. don't feel like you have to forego features like bluetooth cus those are becoming standard on cheap powered monitors as well.
I also found these Klipsch speakers if you're interested.
Are you looking into regular computer speakers or are studio monitors also an option? If so, then I found this which fits within your budget.
I went with these active 2.0 bookshelf speakers when I upgraded last year from a low end 2.1 set and I've been quite happy with them.
For a ~$100 budget I think a quality pair of 2.0 active speakers is a good middle ground between a ~$50 2.1 set and expensive audiophile setups. If you go with bookshelf speakers it should be easy to find sub-$100 options with ~4" drivers, not quite as punchy as a 6-8" sub but good enough IMO.
I use a small Loxjie A30 for my TV that is awesome. Its 2.1 with optical inputs as well as bluetooth. As far as a subwoofer, Garage sales are your friend. I have found several powered subs over the years. try goodwill or your local thrift store as well.
​
Hook these little bad boys up via bluetooth and your cans directly to the PC.
What headphones are you even using? Most consumer stuff won't benefit from a bigass amplifier. If you're using a set of basic headphones I'd plug them into some version of like a Tempotec Sonata, or even just an apple or samsung dac dongle (through a C-to-A adapter if you don't have a free Type-C port handy). The samsung and apple ones should support a headset with integrated mic, too, though the Sonata won't afaik.
Personally, I run my SHP-9500s through a Samsung dongle and it works great
That G1 is still amplified though as would most of the small dongle type devices. If you want to make a test for under $20 you can get a CX31993 or ALC5686 DAC chip based dongle. I use both for headphones and they are good but I have not tried using them as a straight DAC.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-CX31993-Headphone-SNR128dB-Windows10/dp/B099NBWB7L/
If that doesn't work then consider a more traditional device like the Topping D10s
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-ES9038Q2M-OPA2134-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B08F54TT79/
If I had a $100 budget I'd take a chance on a 'renewed' R1280T set https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B08HDN3CVD/
The few things I've bought renewed from amazon have been in perfect condition, and they have a 90-day warranty. If you don't wanna roll the dice on renewed, I'd try the R980T.
Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the A5s. The newer AudioEngine speakers add BT, but I'm not streaming anything to it, and all of the other inputs/outputs are the same.
Looks like unless I want 5+ speakers around my office I won't be getting 5.1 sound. Panasonic has the SoundSlayer, but everything says that it is OK but needs a sub and there is no way to add one.
Regardless, I think that using an extractor will help me clean up my device setup.I can use HDMI Switch 4x1 w/ Audio Extractor to connect the Playstation and Switch. I'll run a HDMI cable from the video card to the extractor, and HDMI-to-DP from the Extractor to one of my monitors (prob the one I use the least in case there are issues with the video pass through)
Then I'll run the 3.5mm cable from the Extractor to the A5s.
That gets me all my devices (with room for one more) using one device, so it's a lot less frankenstein, and I can remove quite a few cables and things.
It doesn't upgrade my speakers, but if I do find something that will work I think the extractor will still work for me.
Would adapters like these accomplish the same?
If you must use the audio interface, then you need to look at studio monitors like the Presonus E3.5 or similar.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PreSonus-3-5-inch-High-Definition-Active-Monitors/dp/B081W1GV47/
Be aware that adding a subwoofer to a audio interface/studio monitor system is difficult.
Amazing sound for the price. I picked up a pair years ago second hand for AUD$130.
Plugs straight into your PC via cable or bluetooth.
Dump the USB headphone/mic combo.
It sounds like you have studio monitors since they use XLR inputs. Converting to unbalanced 1/8 inch is likely the cause of the interference.
It sounds like you need to be using an audio interface like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B07QR6Z1JB/
You would need to get a proper mic with an XLR connector. The back of the Scarlett has balanced TSR outputs which will be fine to use with a TSR to XLR cable for your speakers.
What USB headset is it? Since changing the setting in Windows or Google voice doesn't work, the problem almost has to be with either the headset itself or the driver of the headset.
I would suggest trying a different cable, but I have to admit I have no experience with XLR connections.
The headset/mic combo has 3 connection points on the 1/8 jack (Left, Right, Mic). The average desktop PC jack input only has 2 connection points (Left, Right), so the mic has nowhere to go. Laptops and phones usually do have 3 connections since they are mobile devices and are considered to be more likely to use the headset/mic combo.
One way to get it to work is to buy a splitter. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone-Headset/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?crid=34QAXDTZJ95KT&keywords=1%2F8+to+mic&qid=1650572353&sprefix=1%2F8+to+mi%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-10
> technics sb-as60
Definitely that subwoofer is the weakest spot. If you don't need HDMI then the current Marantz will be fine.
Do you have space for a large serious subwoofer? If so, then the following is a good deal:
https://www.amazon.com/SVS-PB-1000-Subwoofer-Black-Ash/dp/B00K88UMPW/
I would consider the following combo.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable-Bluetooth/dp/B094YXPRKR
https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SB-1000-Subwoofer-Black-Ash/dp/B00AF88C0M
If you don't have enough desk space for the 6.5 woofer Ai61 then maybe look at other powered speakers from Vanatoo or Peachtree but try to get something that has USB input so you don't need an external DAC. Also, you need to make sure the powered speakers have subwoofer output.
Can't help you with under £50 but at £70 these are pretty good
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1000T4-bookshelf-speaker-Computer/dp/B07YY9X1BH/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-Active-Studio-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B06XGC7NTX/
Well many audio interfaces do have headphone out and separate monitor out. For example Behringer UMC22 can do what you described. (For UMC22 you can connect monitor out in the back of the unit into R1280DB using 6.5mm jack to RCA cable.)
Not what I would expect for their "higher end range" of boards.
I have a mid tier DAC/Amp coming from Amazon today to see if that can help at all.
Would something like the Soundblaster X4 be a good replacement? https://www.amazon.com/Creative-External-Multi-Channel-Discrete-Optical-out/dp/B0953LL5R6
I've loaded up my machine with all the NVME based storage I can, so no pcie lanes available for a internal soundcard.
My headset is Astro A10. The Aux cable is a 3.5mm which doesn't work in laptops generally as the laptop's headphone jack will support only Microphone or sound. Not both together, and hence I'm using this splitter cable with the headset :
Neither the splitter cable or the headset have any drivers. Both are just insert and use.
My laptop is a new one that I bought just last year. Anyways, I plugged the headset directly into the headphone jack and the audio quality is exactly the same. I listened to a few songs and felt it had the same clearness, even though I keep the volume at moderate, I can hear a loud bass when it plays the beats.
I tried the same clips and songs in another laptop and it sounds fine. Just like how it should be without anything amplified or bass boosted.
What is your budget? For $110 , the Topping D10s DAC measures very well. It has RCA analog outputs and digital coax and digital optical outputs.
That being said, I would assume that the D10s DAC is far better than the internal DAC in the speakers. I would send an analog signal from the D10s to the speakers instead of using the speakers internal DAC.
There are a lot of less expensive converters but I have no idea if they are any good.
https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-Converter-Interface-PCM192Khz/dp/B085XPRSGM/
I think you need a subwoofer with a low-level input AND output on it. You would connect a 3.5mm->RCA cable from your PC to the sub, then RCA from sub to speakers. On the computer, be sure that the speakers are configured as full-range.
This is an example of a subwoofer with low-level in/out on it: https://www.amazon.com/REL-Acoustics-HT-1205-Compatible/dp/B07DFBQV15
Model REL Acoustics HT/1205 in case link doesn't work.
The sub should output the low frequencies and then pass on the rest to the speakers. Not sure if the sub will filter out the lows from the speakers, that may depend on the sub.
This Syba Sonic Amp/DAC has headphone, mic, and analog line-in on the front, the back has USB in, S/PDIF Out, and RCA line-out. No Bluetooth, but I think if you want bluetooth in any capacity you'd want to look for a quality USB dongle. It's not quite what you want but you might be able to make it work. There's a black version for a similar price, IIRC they each have slightly different guts and I'm not sure which one is the better one. I also couldn't say if they're good hardware, I haven't used one.
These two Sybas are the only "Amp/DACs" I know of that have mic inputs. "USB Sound Cards" Like the Sound Blaster X series have them, and the Sound Blaster GC7 has the optical S/PDIF In that you're looking for.
Theoretically this thing will convert analog input into LDAC bluetooth, so it might improve sound quality on your headset.
Modified marc2003 skin with JSplaylist + some little plugins like http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_dsp_meiercf + AlbumArtDownloader and much more. :)
>Somehow V3 is creating a sillent sound when you listen vocals.
Is it through a 10w USB port and under the high gain setting?
​
>And r19u are too weak.
Compared to the pebbles on 10w? The original pebble doesn't look very different from them.
​
>I tested v3 with Logitech Z200, and Logitech sounds better.
I was looking for a USB powered unit. How is something like this then?
Unfortunately I don’t. I was confused, for some reason I read output in my head. I’ve always had issues with sound blaster card software. My current rig is an asrock x299 taichi xe with a 7900x. I got it specifically for the headphone features it has and the additional pci-e lanes. Sorry if I got your hopes up.
Maybe something like this:
StarTech.com 7.1 USB Sound Card - External Sound Card for Laptop with SPDIF Digital Audio - Sound Card for PC - Silver (ICUSBAUDIO7D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MDS8KF0ZJX3A3ERS166P
Which has inputs in addition to outputs. The main question being does the input only go to the amp and respective speaker outputs, or can it be recoded from.
This may have something to do with piracy and pure capture capabilities?
I'm assuming that's a standard stereo splitter that's intended for TS mono cables. If so, it shorts the right channel when you plug a TRS stereo cable into it, and I wonder if that's part of the problem with not getting audio to both speakers. I'm wondering if it would work if you replaced that splitter with a 'DJ splitter'. It's intended to be used with DJ software so they can have the output on one channel while they're monitoring ahead on the other, but if you just stuck one in your stereo output you should end up with separate 'dual-mono' left and right channels.
Sorry my bad, I was confusing them with ones my cousin has. I have the smaller version (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMPDAAO/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) And have the USB to my PC plugged in here I literally just plugged the SUB into my PC and my PC recognized the connection and allows me to toggle between it and the headphones and such via the sound settings output device
No problem. If the sub is passive, something like this might be good. I’d still avoid 5.1 since it just isn’t worth the headache.
But that 2.1 amp for $35 is about the cheapest you can possibly expect (unless you are willing to use a huge old home theater amp). So I’d check CL and FB to see if there are any ProMedia or similar sets for sale for around that price before pulling the trigger.
Also- I forgot to mention this earlier- sometimes this all in one home theaters have speakers with weird impedance (like 6 or 16 ohms or some other unusual number). With a solid state amp it should be ok, but it might affect how quiet or loud they are compared to what you might expect.
there are a few that are less expensive
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/
https://www.amazon.com/LiNKFOR-Coaxial-Headphone-Converter-Amplifier/dp/B07TDJGR34/
and others.
If you can go with a larger 2.0 stereo set then you don't really need to go with separates though I love separates. Edifier and Swans offer some very good powered speaker options which will be better for a near field desk top set up than normal bookshelf speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PAWJYS/
If I was still in the USA, I would be looking to maximize my budget and looking at the second hand from FB market place or craigslist or audiogon or something.
I hate to recommend a 2.1 (stereo plus a small bass satellite under the desk) system since they usually have worse sound quality than a comparably priced 2.0 (larger stereo speakers) but with your budget there are some decent choices.
The following is $50 over your budget but far better than anything even close to this price. Your Sennheiser are giving you good quality audio and there is really no other 2.1 system near your budget that will give your comparable sound quality.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-Bookshelf-Subwoofer-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B077Y6PHKQ
I bought this. The specific listing isn't available anymore but I think there's a Chinese company that makes them and they're sold under various names. Should be easy to find it somewhere.
I have the 1700BT, my wife has the 1280T. both are good, the 1700 has more/better bass. The 1700 are definitely big for a desk, they're borderline obnoxiously large. I didn't have any trouble with the bluetooth on mine, but I've only used it for like half an hour in the three years I've had them. Like the 1280T, they have two sets of inputs that are both active at the same time, so by leaving a long cable attached to the speakers I can plug my phone in and have both phone and PC audio without changing channels on the speakers. Wife wanted bluetooth after she got her 1280T so we put this bluetooth receiver on hers, and it's pretty nice. Its '3D audio' setting is bullshit, though.
Since size is a factor, I hesitate to recommend the 1700 set to you. Especially since you have the 1280DBs coming some time and you could add a powered sub to that sometime later on if you wanted. Size being a factor, you might look into the Kanto YU2, which are pretty small but lack bluetooth and are more expensive at $220-ish
Er, I did mention Germany. Anyways, on amazon DE there's some Edifier stuff, but mostly 2.1 and/or outside my budget.
The only thing I found is this https://www.amazon.de/EDIFIER-C2XD-Lautsprechersystem-Infrarot-Fernbedienung-optischem/dp/B00A50PFIW/
but from what I read around there's better stuff around.
The Klipsch has a volume module that comes on the right speaker. You can take it off and put it on the left speaker, or on no speaker at all.
There are also optional volume knobs you can buy. Here's an example of one I used to use.
Just some ideas for you. You're not likely to get any more, unfortunately. This sub is dead. You might try /r/buildapc, or hang out at /r/buildapcsales on the NEW tab and wait on a good sale.
if you have the desk space then I would recommend choosing something from Edifier like the well regarded R1700BT
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BTs-Active-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0886B1TWC
If you go up one model you get optical and coax digital inputs along with the Bluetooth.
If you go down one model you also get those features but lose the subwoofer line output and it uses older Bluetooth tech.
Looking for something fairly cheap and small that I can throw into a small control box for my DIY metal detector. Currently leaning towards this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L9C7233/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2EDEOL32PF03V&psc=1
I'm looking for active speakers at the moment. Those are a bit out of my price range, but they are close to what I'm looking for.
I was thinking something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PCSQHG9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_.tIVFbZX79QHC
And then I'd figure out a way to secure the speakers to the plate. Maybe a clamp of some sort, or ratchet straps? Command strips? Someone on reddit as well as a buddy of mine were talking about isolation pads, so I might throw those in the mix as well. I'm open to any ideas.
Like I said, I'd also be willing to switch to a speaker that has mounting points, as long as it fits within the $165 budget. Black Friday should definitely help that a bit, or at least so I hope.
Okay so I have a good amount of money total to drop on a new sound system. I've finally got a job and been working and saved up after other prioirties and I have around $1000 total to dedicate to this.
First comes the desk I need to upgrade. So I'm going for a minimalistic, simple battlestation (I've never had the space or means to do it before so want to do it right.) I'm worried about table depth. Is this table good enough for me to have my chair in the middle, with my 27in 1440p monitor and to the left and right have these speakers we've mentioned here. The depth is like 47.25in so seems enough.
This is the desk https://www.costco.com/Linea-Italia-Trento-Line-Rectangular-Desk-Mocha.product.11676751.html Same desk on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Linea-Italia-TR733MOC-Trento-Rectangular/dp/B00BT2S0HS
Now after I get the desk, I just need to buy 2 of those speakers and that cable to connect them to the AUX in the back of my computer. Is it better to do a full 2.1 setup if I'm going all out or is this enough?
Also if I'm dropping $1000, what is the best setup as of right now you recommend for me. (I'm guessing way better gear if I have total 1k to purchase?) I don't have a amp or nothing. I've been using a Bose SoundDock II (non-portable) for 7 years now. I just plug it in and have it sitting to the right side of my monitor for 7yrs now.
Regards
You have 2 good options...
The newer and upgraded; Micca PB42X Powered Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Pair) for $109 on Amazon
The cheaper and older: Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) for $79 on Amazon
Those are the two best 2.1 channel bookshelf speaker sets for around $100 or less.
There are not a lot of choices in that budget. Normally I would recommend one of the less expensive 2 channel stereo Edifier options but those are more than 2x.
https://www.amazon.in/Edifier-R1010BT-Shelf-Bluetooth-Speaker/dp/B071YV97LK/
I don't know the specific model you linked but Edifier is generally a good brand. That said, for music, I would save up for a better 2 speaker stereo set with larger drivers.
Your motherboard supports S/PDIF out, you just need a bracket for the header on the motherboard. https://www.amazon.com/SPDIF-Optical-Plate-Cable-Bracket/dp/B01LWNKIKN
https://www.amazon.com/Console-Adapter-Convert-Multimedia-Speaker/dp/B07BDCGHX9
Buy something like that, then buy a Y cable with RCA R+W on one end and a single 3.5 mm headphone jack male on the other end.
I used to have one I bought direct from creative back in the day.
The satellite speakers on the Edifier look like the same R19U that you can normally get for $30 at Amazon, so I guess they're selling the subwoofer with those for $100+ more? But yeah if you're spending that kind of money you probably want the Edifier over the Logitech.
Do you have to have a subwoofer, or would the R1280T for $100 do?
external sound card. bonus that you wont have to worry about the mobo going forward this'll work for em all ;)
Okay we have one of those, the trs port is where the mic is plugged?
And as for the mic it’s this one here i ‘m pretty sure
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ra9VDb7KK1326
Take a look at what Edifier has to offer. They are generally not super small but they fill the room with very good sound. Like car engines there is really no replacement for displacement. Larger drivers move more air.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R980T-Active-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0756P9MM4/
Are you talking about the front of your PC case? If the control panel can detect them as two devices, I would think the app the user mentioned below might work. I used to have razer tiamats with a built in switch which was awesome. They broke and I needed a way to switch easy and started using https://audioswit.ch/er. For a hardware solution, this usb dongle might be the cheapest, or you could go with a USB DAC
You're not going to want a sound card, you want better headphones. If you already had good headphones and wanted better audio quality, I'd recommend a DAC, not a sound card. If you got a DAC without upgrading your headphones, you wouldn't hear a difference anyway. Sound cards < DAC. What is your budget? I'd highly recommend a Sennheiser headset, like the PC 373D (which is currently on sale for $130, normally $249.99). The PC 373D comes with an attached/removable DAC. I have the older model, PC 363D, and they're amazing.
I'm curious, why use the Marantz for music only? That said, I've been using these since a couple years back and they are decent for the price.
Thanks for the reply, sounds like a good option. It seems like the JBL LSR305 speakers are only $150 on Amazon, these are the correct ones right? : https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C
A lot of the gaming focused USB sound cards / DACs have a line in function.
I am currently using the Asus Xonar U7 MkII
https://www.amazon.com/Xonar-U7-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B06X3RGC8Y/
(Most of the 4 reviews are terrible, but I think some 3rd party sellers were sending out refurbs/used units - mine works great with no issues)
I'm literally using every connection on this device:
Analog 7.1 output for surround sound (works great, but the one feature missing is bass management - fixable with Equalizer APO, but I have not taken the time yet)
Optical output for 2.1 audio (for music due to no bass management on #1)
Headphone amp
I have a USB mic so I use the 3.5mm mic jack as a line-in - I have a Bluetooth adapter (with Aptx) plugged into it so I can hear a podcast from my phone on my speaker system (https://www.amazon.com/Maceton-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-MDR-100AAP/dp/B06XGY62GV/) I use the volume on my phone to control the level - the Xonar control panel has a volume slider as well, but it's not quite as handy.
If you want more mixing than just a line-in, you're going to need to buy a mixer.
> Aune T1
This thing?? i'm a little confused on what this is, but geez that price tag
Thanks. Now that I think about it, running some speaker wires under the rugs in to the dining room will be really easy, so I will do that.
Would this be the right kind of thing to get to switch the audio between speakers?
or, I could do a clever thing and Use the X-FI Titanium soundcard, which provides 3 Audio Jack outputs for 5.1 and one SPDIF out- and one Input. I stopped using onboard sound since I bought the recon3D, and never want to go back.
Now I was looking around. Since I´m a little Creative Labs fanboy, I looked for the same speakers my gaming PC uses, the Creative Inspire T3300 2.1 PC Speakers. There´s a 5.1 version of those, the Creative Inspire T6300 5.1, which are literally the same like the T3300 except 3 boxes and 2 cables more.
Would this work for a cinematic feeling? The T3300 have a great quality, and They aren´t that expensive.