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Files.fm
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SIV - System Information Viewer
The most popular reviews in /r/RGBProfiles:
Ayyyy classic K95 bros ✊🏽
Looks good to me! I bought these HyperX keycaps for like 15 bucks last year and they fit perfectly on this keyboard
edit: except for the spacebar, windows keys and the menu key, I left the OG corsair ones on those
Fun fact, this particular type of MOLEX (brand name?) connector was used between the CD-ROM drive and sound card for audio CDs (remember those? LOL).
https://www.amazon.com/Kentek-Computer-Internal-DVD-ROM-Splitter/dp/B07KVGBGD3
I recognized the connector as soon as I opened the package on my iCUE parts. I find it interesting to see how once antiquated parts find new life in modern hardware.
IF iCUE doesn't work, use a program called SIV. (system information viewer)
I quit using link & icue months ago. SIV is easy to use & doesn't hog resources like the other two. Even works with the non-corsair led strips I made.
Everything is in sync & working.
Hey buddy! I found this on Amazon and just tried it to a London address. The shipping options were decently priced, as well as free shipping available with global.
Hope this helps!
Again buddy IDK, it would have to be something I could look at the insides of to answer you. lol There's like ten zillion products out there that are using LED, nobody except the manufacturer is going to be able to answer you here.
Can you get to the LED wiring easily? Are they RGB or ARGB LED? Then yes it's not a big deal to hook them to wires to the MOBO lighting header. Soldering is easy peasy and soldering kits cost like all of around 20 bucks for the simpler ones now days. Sometimes you don't even need to solder if you can get to two sets of wires. I've used these type of self soldering butt connectors several times. You don't even need a heat gun, a lighter works just fine if you don't hold it too close.
I found some of those adapter pigtails that go from the molex connections on the power supply to SATA connections at Amazon.com. If you need SATA to molex adapters, Amazon.com is the location for that as well. It is two separate pages and they are different products but are both priced at around $7.50 US.
Dude you explained it so well and so clear. I'll give an award as soon as i can. Thanks for the effort!
Few things:
My case will come with 4 fan. My local retail store sells it that way. ( this )
The thing i got extra is this but this has only 1 argb header.
Since im not an rgb fan i think it wont worth having icue ecosystem. And i am all ok with using asus (since my mobo is asus.)
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So what i understand is, with the powered splitter box that you mentioned i can control all fans individually from asus software (even though they all CM fans). Right?
Yes as long as those hubs get their own power. Otherwise when you start splitting you have to pay attention to the power draw in which case instead of splitter cables you're better off getting a powered splitter like one of these boxes. Average MOBO RGB and ARGB header is only rated for 3 amps though some are 5A now days.
When I look an amazon for corsair only RGB like this https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-LL120-120mm-Light-Lighting/dp/B075VGN4M1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1JA7DVI8X664Y&keywords=argb%2Bfans%2Bcorsair&qid=1664243511&sprefix=argb%2Bfans%2Bcorsair%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&th=1
shows up and nothing for ARGB. So the Icue wouldnt be able to control my artic fans for the cpu cooler? Im still leaning towards getting corsair fans.
The best controller is razer chroma adressable controller or something like that that only allows you to contoll your argb or do you want rgb? If yes try nzxt rgb controller. If you want place for more fans https://www.amazon.pl/dp/B0874H31C5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZX4H03HRQ0ZM846YBRFM
I saw that but they aren't pinned out in the normal motherboard ARGB header. Which is like the RGB header but with a pin missing. They look closer to the 3 pin JST-SM connector that most LED strips have outside of the PC world, or the VDG that I can't remember for sure but I think gigabyte uses.
I'll try out option 1 as well as the deepcool convertor with software since it isn't too expensive. Will use the Cooler Master splitter since it has 5 and is one available where I'm at.
Thanks again for your time 👍
Well the converter that I linked at least has it's own PSU sata power cable. I don't know the actual specs on it but at max it can add 4.5 amps to the assuming your motherboard's RGB header is standard, 3 amps. 4.5 amps because that's the max rating of what a PSU sata power cable header itself is rated for. So that should be plenty of power for just 5 fans. LED don't require a lot of juice, they're the most efficient lighting ever invented.
- That should work if you're happy with just 3 modes. You wouldn't need the motherboard RGB header. But without it you'd need to add up how much power 5 of those fans need and find out if that will provide enough. I would guess it could run 5 easily but I'm just not 100% sure.
- That's not a converter. So you could run RGB and ARGB products off it. But you couldn't run your ARGB fans and plug it into the RGB header on your motherboard and use the motherboard software to light. You'd be stuck with its 6 onboard modes for your fans. IDK how the rest of it works like the temp and reset. lol Like does it even come with those cables like a temp sensor? Beats me. Power wise it's just going off its sata power cable just like option 1.
They have 5 way splitter cables in case you didn't know. They have one that split a lot more than that. I think an 8 way was the most I've seen if I remember correctly.
They don't have a default mode like rainbow or any other. RGB and ARGB LED are totally passive. They need to be told how to light with a data signal. There is nothing in the fan to store that data signal. It has to come from the software stored either on a chip on the motherboard like my Asrock Taichi's MOBO that uses Asrock's Polychrome software. Or it needs to come from a chip on some sort of controller. Or it needs to come from a software that is loaded.
For the second question, it's not just about powering the LED. How RGB works is in the PC world at least it's always 12v 4 pin/wire. Which is a 12v wire, then the data is sent in a red, green, and blue wire. ARGB in the PC world is always 5v 3 pin/wire. Which is a 5v, data, and ground wire." Converters like you mentioned above like this, and not just addressing the conversion of 12v to 5v. It's also addressing the issue of how the two different systems send the lighting data. And it can't always do that properly which is why for that particular convertor it says "Rainbow and breathing mode for some motherboard models are not compatible"
To get yours to work you'll just have to use splitter cables off one of those converter boxes. The 4 pin 12v header on the motherboard and whatever software your motherboard brand has is what will provide the data signal.
Just ordered these for my EVGA Z15 that uses a standard cherry size keycap . Some of them I tried out on my K70 no problem also.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087QTR4CT?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details&th=1
No, natively you can't mix 12 and 5v products. Plus the wiring is different. IDK exactly how Govee has theirs wired/pinned but generally 12v products are RGB which means all the colors change color at the same time. It's wired as a power, then the lighting data for each color is ran with its own wire so it's usually 4 wire/pins. ARGB is generally 5v and is a power, data, and ground wire so it's 3 pin/wire. Full ARGB is each LED can change color independently from each other. I know some Govee are technically ARGB as in you can change the color of sections of I forget how many LED at a time, but like I said IDK how they wire that to be able to do that. It's not full normal ARGB where the product's LED can all change color independently from each other.
There are 12v and 5v converters like this but I don't think ICUE would know what to do with such a muddled data signal. The difference in how the 2 kinds runs the data is why even simple modes like rainbow or breathing won't work right on some MOBO software as it shows in sale. And as LED software goes the MOBO kind outside of ASUS are the most simplest. Most you can't even address and program down to each LED. It just sends blanket signals to all LED. ICUE is far more complex so I seriously doubt you could get it to work. Just making an educated guess though. I've never heard of anyone that's tried it.
"That means that I need fans that control by remote right?" Yes and no.
Ones with remotes will be the cheapest rout. But you get what you pay for. They'll be louder, won't last as long, or move as much air. But that being said fans are fans. People focus too much trying to get every scrap of performance they can out of them and the end result is all of a handful to half a dozen C difference. I've learned this from having literally 23 fans in my PC right now. Using premium Noctua widely considered the best on the market. Arctic, Corsair LL and QL, stock Corsair case fans, (I don't think those have a name) and cheap Chinese fans.
The cheap Chinese are the ones that will most often come with a remote. So you can go that rout with some like these. Or these. Etc. Basically pretty much all the small/unknown brands will fall into the category of cheap Chinese fans.
Or you can go with better performing better look but also more expensive like Corsair's or Lian Li. Those when bought in fan packs, will come with the controllers needed to run their lighting. They cut the motherboard lighting headers out of the mix and use USB to run the lighting data instead.
That's why I was asking how many pins. A lot of those controllers wrap fan power in with RGB. So it'll have the normal 4 PWM fan wires which will be a 12v, tach (RPM), PWM, and a ground wire. ARGB is 3 wires. Power (usually 5v), data, and ground. So cables that wrap the two will have 7, or sometimes 6 wires/pins if they share a ground wire.
If there's just the 3 normal ARGB wires it'll be simple enough to get an adapter to run it to a Corsair lighting channel of a lighting node pro or commander pro using one of these. Now if it does plug into the motherboard it should have that 4 with 1 pin missing header and if so you can plug it into the motherboard and to answer your original question, whatever motherboard brand you have has software you can DL for free that will be able to run the lighting through that Roswell controller. However if it can't plug into the motherboard because it doesn't have that cable, you can cut it out of the mix like I said and you'll have to do a bit of DIY and splice it to an adapter. Which is easy peasy if the fans and LED strip just have the normal 3 ARGB wires. You can splice it to a corsair adapter like I linked and cut off the motherboard side of the adapter and splice it and use it with Corsair's ICUE, or you can splice it to a normal motherboard cable and use motherboard software and you won't run it to the Roswell controller. It'll go fan/LED strip straight to motherboard ARGB header.
Get a powered RGB splitter box like this. You can find them for as low as 7 bucks, that was just the first link I found.
It depends on the fans you get and what software you want to use. All the motherboard software's are pretty simplistic. More complex and better are ones like Corsair or Razor that let you address and program down to each LED. A lot of fans can be daisy chained together. For those you have to find out the max draw of each fan and start adding up the amps. The standard motherboard RGB and ARGB header is rated for 3 amps. But double check what yours is. If you get Corsair fans and get them in the fan packs, they'll come with the controller that's needed to run the lighting. If it's the older ones except the QL, it'll come with a RGB hub that the fans go to and a lighting node pro that the RGB hub goes to. The newer fan packs come with the lighting node core that looks like the RGB hub but has its own USB cable so it doesn't need the lighting channel of a lighting node pro. Corsair controllers bypass the motherboard lighting headers altogether and uses USB to run that data instead, and their controllers are powered off PSU sata cables. There's also powered splitter boxes like this that work just like splitter cables but since they're PSU sata cable powered they'll add 4.5 amps to the MOBO header's 3 amps. 4.5 since that's what a PSU sata power cable header is max rated for.
If you can narrow down what you want and a ballpark on what you want to spend I can help you more.
Govee LED Strip Lights 3M, RGBIC DIY Neon Light with WiFi APP Control, Work with Alexa, Segmentable Colour Changing LED Lights for Bedroom, Wall, Game https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09N37QTDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_QCNZZ6P8MK0MNC6NM0YQ
Is this the one on the wall?
So you will need a SATA power rgb hub . This connects directly to the motherboard and you can you splitters off of this . Here’s a link 5V RGB Splitter Hub with Case and for ASUS/MSI 5V 3Pin LED Controller、LED Splitter 10-Port Hub with 50CM 3Pin Extension Cord, Perfect for Lots of RGB (5v)
5V RGB Splitter Hub with Case and for ASUS/MSI 5V 3Pin LED Controller、LED Splitter 10-Port Hub with 50CM 3Pin Extension Cord, Perfect for Lots of RGB (5v) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K6B6KTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WTQAYF2WFWQEMTYFG8JB
You can light up the world with this and I have 13 fans lol
Thanks, I think I might go with this one. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/KXZM-WS2812B-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof/dp/B08H29KRS7/?th=1
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would these work?
Out of curiosity did you buy a power supply and controller because according to Amazon, under About this item
>not include power supply and controller, you need purchase them.
I have a few I got on Amazon a few years ago for some LED light displays, similar to this one (https://www.amazon.co.uk/inShareplus-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Transformer/dp/B08QR3NVV2/)
I actually use a few for my 12v 5050 LEDs in my office, and connected to some Sonoff devices.. Which is kinda similar to what I want to do with the LEDs controlled by the computer, and be able to cut the power to lights outside the computer that have power injected to them through the switching power supply.... I'm still in the Figuring it Out stage, but if injecting power along the strips works fine, then I can also insert a WiFi switch at the computer and cut the power remotely or using a scene like if I leave the office, the lights will automatically turn off (using GPS), and the computer will go into standby on it's own..... Well, that's the plan anyway. :)
You can't connect the RGB portion of those fans to your motherboard. You would need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/LEDdess-Rainbow-Controller-Strip-Remote/dp/B07JZCNPNV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=88ZEDFK86WHC&keywords=argb+controller&qid=1651435359&sprefix=argb+controller%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-3
With this you are only able to control the RGB with the included remote and you can't "sync" it to your gpu either. You'd have to just try and find something similar on the controller. Unless someone else has a better idea.
Can't speak for the others but the only thing proprietary (which really isn't unless one is talking about software or their controllers themselves) that Corsair uses is the old style molex connectors they use that use to be common on motherboards back in the day when the closest anyone had to RGB was cold cathode lighting and large style single color LED. Otherwise it's just normal 3 pin ARGB. A 5v, data, and ground wire. Their fans however have a 4th wire for a second data line to pass modes along to the next fan in line. But for LED strips the data line is the data line. Nothing special about it.
I'm pretty sure most of the PC lighting world is like that. There is nothing special that I know of about the data line in WS2812B LED strips. I'm using a bunch of those myself. Those kind of LED are in the 4 60 LED each towers I've made which like everything else in this pic, except the keyboard and extended mousepad, is being run off Corsair's ICUE.
Yes, there are absolutely 12v FULLY addressable strips. Govee has them too though theirs is not by fully as in by individual LED but instead in sections of 3 LED I think or maybe it's 5. I can't remember, but that's still being addressable. There is also 24v addressable for that matter.
Regardless of what anyone is calling anything, the important part is the ASUS software allows PROGRAMING down to each individual LED. MSI, Asrock, Gigabyte, do not yet they still all have addressable headers.
Why are you getting butt hurt here enough to start being snarky?
It has a limit because it's a power issue. PC ARGB is 5v products. Like Nifferothix suggested get a powered splitter like this. That'll add 4.5 amps (what a PSU SATA cable header is rated for)to the header's (assuming your MOBO is using standard rated headers) 3 amps.
This pleases the blood god. HAIL KHORNE!
Hey just as an FYI, if you'd like to run those neon LED strips ruler straight, get some of those removable spines from those report covers we use to use in school to make reports look snazzy. This isn't the ones I used, I didn't feel like looking through my ten zillion amazon receipts for them, but it's close enough. The spines are the perfect width for the strips and are easy to cut to length. You can get a smaller set for a lot less money than my link.
What kind of 10 port ARGB hub? ICUE can have issues with those for some reason. I have this one and it didn't play nice with my setup. I was using that when all my ARGB was still being run by Asrock's crappy Polychrome. When I moved over to ICUE with it using an adapter cable, not everything plugged into it would work anymore. I had Phantek fan frames, Phantek neon strips, an infinity mirror, and Thermaltake's RAM cover plugged into it. With all plugged in to the hub and the hub ran to a lighting channel of a lighting node pro, only the fan frames would light. Unplugged those then only the neon strips would light. The only items I can get to work with it is the RAM cover and mirror, and I've since gone on to add the Galax AIO ARGB vest which also works. IDK what the deal is. The only differences is both the Phantek products use JST-SM connectors natively, but they both come with the 3 pin aura type adapters.
I also have a strimer, a 3 8 pin for my 3080TI. It's run off ICUE and I have it ran to its own lighting channel of a lighting node pro. It should be straight forward almost plug and play. Put the lian controller into motherboard mode. Run the aura type cable from the controller to a Corsair adapter, and that to a lighting channel. Set it in ICUE as LED strips with 30 LED. If I read your comment right you've tried it off that hub and to its own lighting channel? If so I only had to do it once so I don't remember how many seconds you have to hold down the top button to put it in motherboard mode but maybe you didn't hold it down long enough?
I have smart plugs, smart usb adaptors and a smart extension lead all working with other devices such as Sonoff and Govee, but these PlayStation lights are only half working.
When I ask Alexa to turn off office, they'll turn off, but when I ask to turn the office back on, they won't come on with the rest of the lights and I'll have to manually turn them on with the button.
Does anyone know how / why and if there's a way to get them to work?
Paladone PP4140PS Playstation Icons 3 Light Modes Music Reactive Game Room, Multi Colour https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079CBP6P9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Q7E7VCD3PRS8Y39PFWJW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks!
They put the name of their AIO in the title, it’s this one:
Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240R ARGB Close-Loop AIO CPU Liquid Cooler, 240 Radiator, Dual Chamber Pump, AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079K244KZ/
I am not probably answering your question. I will be purchasing this one
Lytmi Immersion Monitor Backlight for Windows PC, Screen & Music Sync, Replace RGB Light Bar, Ambient Gaming Room Setup Accessories Decor Light for 30 Inch and Below https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09MHHXXSC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZCBB5VEWXRDWMDMS7MD3
Of course I can and I will. Here you go:
Cablecc ATX 8Pin Female to 8pin Male 180 Degree AngledPower Adapter for Desktops Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3JDQNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_JE7AZJ4CG1KCGMHDG17C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
BTW you will want to order multiple quantities based on the number of PCIE ports on your GPU. They come in packs of two but with two different connector orientations, one facing down and one up.
I use this. Razer Chroma Addressable RGB Controller: Universal Compatibility - 6 Addressable RGB Headers - Powered by Razer Chroma RGB - Supported by Razer Synapse 3 - SSD Mounting Points https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K3TYWP6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_247TVRR9F8ZTHQG1N0XK
You'd need razers software but it's up to you if it's worth it.
Sweet. lol When I look at code my eyes start swimming.... :) I mean I'm sure I could do it if I set my mind to it but just don't want to take the time to learn. You can do some really amazing stuff with Arduino though. Maybe some day.
Thanks, found one. Got an Amazon gift card for Christmas that's burning a hole in my pocket. :) Going to put it between the towers I made.
Thanks. But where again should i install these ? on the walls or ceiling ? Also are these the same ones https://www.amazon.de/-/en/BTF-LIGHTING-Individual-Addressable-Progarmmable-Flexible/dp/B08SBVFP3G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=VSGM1510T1VM&keywords=BTF-LIGHTING%2BWS2812B%2BRGB%2B5050SMD&qid=1642532018&sprefix=btf-lighting%2Bws2812b%2Brgb%2B5050s...
Since i live in Eu and dont want to pay fee and taxes.
No, splitters whether PWM or RGB just mirror a single signal. Set one, you set them all on the splitter. If you want independent control you'd have to get an actual compatible (compatible as in you can plug it in) controller. A CONTROLLER mind you, not just something like this for example. What I just linked isn't a controller, it's a powered splitter. Powered so you can split more than unpowered cables can.
No it isn't. USB powered products like this for example needs either a remote or switch that's on the cable itself somewhere to provide the lighting mode signal. USB can only provide power and a signal line for some other controller that Signal is capable of communicating with, like a Corsair lighting node pro or any of the other lighting controllers shown here. Which SignalRGB can then take over.
I never got mine to work, so for me the workaround was hooking everything up to the corsair commander pro and the RGB hubs.
I bought these cables for things that didn't hook directly up to the corsair RGB hubs. Even got my LEDs on the front of my lian li XL to hook up to it.
Had the same issue on my son's msi mobo and the only solution I could manage was to get an rgb controller hub that has independent button control to switch colors and modes. I'd recommend a kit like this with a remote: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Magnetic-tento-Motherboard-Controller/dp/B07Q5GY642/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3LKXX4V14T3GO&keywords=12v+rgb+controller+pc&qid=1641302300&sprefix=12v+rgb+controller%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-4
I was able to get a working solution by modding these cables
​
(Phanteks RGB LED 4 Pin Adapter, Specified for Cases with Multi Colors RGB Control (PH-CB_RGB4P) Black ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZIBJAK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
But it took me soldering and re-arranging pins, destroying a cable, before I figured it out. (It was a learning process for me).
Soldering was not needed as the pins come out the sockets if you're good at finagling them out without destroying the plug.
Also I had to destroy the female part on the plug as it took me forever to figure out that Phantek's cables for some odd reason re-arrange the wires around inside the female plug (like in pic2) to look like the following:
​
12V / G / R / B
(1) / (2) / (3) / (4) - female plug ports
get re-arranged inside the female plug to be
(1) / (4) / (2) / (3) - wires coming out.
Once I figure that out I rearranged them correctly and everything works.
You can get something like this. IDK exactly how it works. I think you're stuck with one of its modes. Data isn't passed the same way between 12v RGB and 5v ARGB so I don't think any of the PC lighting software can handle it right on its own.
Or you can just cut the RGB and ARGB headers out of the mix and go to something that uses USB to run the data. Like Corsair's ICUE. Which is my choice of preference since its software allows programing down to each individual LED. Thermaltake also has USB controllers. So does Razor. But IDK much about them. I went with ICUE.
Govee Smart Light Bars, RGBICWW Smart LED Lights with 12 Scene Modes and Music Modes, Bluetooth Color Light Bar for Entertainment, PC, TV, Room Decoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MZRD646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_THJ4142VR77YNDEH3FJR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
All the lighting is controlled on an app. The two light bulbs I have as well are the same brand and use the same app.
It's a Samsung ultra wide, only 60hz but it does look awesome.
It costs all of literally little over 2 bucks for the parts to make an adapter cable. And there's nothing proprietary about it. Corsair is just using a type of locking molex that use to be common on motherboards like back in the day when there wasn't such a thing as PC RGB and the closest people had was cold cathode lighting. So if anything Corsair is using the oldest type of connector there is in the PC RGB world and the rest of the manufacturers should have copied them instead of going with the silly 3 pin aura type that slips off so easily. lol SMH I had to tape on my thermaltake's 3 pin aura type adapter that's run to one of these type of splitter boxes because it would fall off half the time I put my side panel back on.
These are the ones I think are probably closest to real Xmas lights. They might be bigger than you think though.
ALITOVE WS2811 Addressable LED Pixel Light 50pcs 5V 12MM Digital Dream Color Diffused RGB LED Pixels Module Round Black Wire IP68 Waterproof
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD72LYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_457FM900QZBQ1CYW1AES
These are the ones we ended up buying. A single box of 4 strands was enough to do a six foot tree, but we added two more strands. Leds were larger and brighter than I thought they would be. Was able to power all six off single controller, but did have some voltage drop with white at its brightest setting. I have an amplifier that I can use to inject some power into them but we have not really needed it. Controller has built in mic for syncing to music that works pretty well.
Smart Fairy String Lights RGBIC 65Ft Bluetooth Twinkle Lights with Timer and Remote Music Sync Funny Modes Color Chasing Firefly Lights for Bedroom Room Curtain Christmas Wedding Party Decor IP65 DC5V
Yeah this is what I wanted but this is expensive lol
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07Q79FC47/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_i_MYH833TFNRKT3HTD13Z4 I hoped something like this with a special controller 20-25€ would work the Corsair iCue could be worth a shot But then I will have to get my PC stuff working with iCue lol
Hey, check this out BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B RGB 5050SMD Individual Addressable 16.4FT 60Pixels/m 300Pixels Flexible Black PCB Full Color LED Pixel Strip Dream Color IP65 Waterproof Making LED Screen LED Wall Only DC5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDTEKAG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_D5T05FR6MVSGCHN24FTY
These are great, work out of the box with standard ARGB of the motherboard. You might have to purchase a seperate ARGB to JST connecter for plugging it on the motherboard header. Or you can use an RGB controller that provides the 3pin RGB header. These strips are 5v RGB strips and various effects and colors can be programmed for it.
looks like "Form and Function". Cant find the download page anymore, but here is my slightly modified one. just change a few colors to get it back to normal.
What do you mean by USB? As in USB powered like these kind that plug into a TV's USB or what not? Then no, there isn't any. All ICUE controlled LED strips have to go through a Corsair controller.
You don't have to get LED strips specifically made for the PC RGB world. I've bought these a few times. 100 per meter LED are in the tall towers and 144 per meter are in the smaller side ones. If you're not going to be doing a really long room size strip you can still get some and sync with ICUE and it should be enough for furniture like a cupboard. 60 per meter LED strips to a 132 LED length would be roughly little over 6ft long. Or 30 per meter LED strips could be almost 14 ft. But I think that would need power added. Been a while since I looked it all up and don't remember how many meters 5v LED can go before power drop off starts to dim things.
Hey u/JAYJAYBEE303 Thanks matey they look allot better with neon sunset and some of my other profiles think everyone is going to enjoy the new profiles everyone said oooo no you don't want white keycaps but I Thought nope gonna at least try them !!
So there the steel series pudding style keycaps they come with 3 different bottom rows for different style keyboards I Was thinking on what I Could do to get the G Keys changed as no keycap pack comes with G Keys and then it hit me the god of RGB Aka Alex Krastev shows in his videos he changed his G Keys to F1 through to F6 so I Will get another pack of these and put them in 😁 What would be much better is is you could also replace the media keys but that's something that won't be happening lol 😂
There on Amazon UK For £29.99 Link,
You should also be able to get them on any other amazon site or even the steel series website it's self. Have a look at some of my newer profiles right here,
There is many many more work in progress and stuff that has never been shown or seen but with any luck I Will do some videos and people will be able to choose what they want to see what they want released. I Wondered if anybody knows any other RGB Communities where profiles can get released for iCUE ?
The alternative to Nanoleaf was LIFX Tiles before they were discontinued. Sometimes you can find them being resold
https://www.amazon.ca/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Assistant/dp/B078N2XJNY
It looks like it's ARGB to me since each LED can light independently. The only question is is it 12v or 5v. If I had to bet I'd say 5v. You should contact the manufacturer and find out. If it's 5v, just cut the cable somewhere along the length to the USB. Strip a bit of the wire insulation around the end of the cut. Test which wire is which by just twisting the wires together loosely with the new wire with the Corsair molex connector with a new length of wire that you'll get from digikey. (loosely because if you connect power to ground it'll get hot in a hurry so you'll want to be able to pull it apart) When you figure out which is which just join them with self soldering butt connectors like these. It'll probably be 22-24 AWG sized wires. Those butt connectors are easy to use. A heat gun works best but you use a lighter.
Including the pricing of the lighting node pro which sells on average on ebay for 20 bucks. I bet the whole project would only cost around 40-50. Like the connectors themselves on digikey and pins for them are only a few cents each. The LNP and shipping would be most expenses.
If I knew it was using normal 5v LED in it I'd definitely do the mod if it was my chair. Especially because I like having things no one else has and DIY can be fun.
I landed up buying this guy to multiply my USB 2.0 ports. That way I will have each LNC plugged in to it's own port to the mobo.
I will have to check out aquacomputer, I have never heard of that one.
Thank you again for all the information. I went ahead and bought one of these. Based on some other research and a very helpful youtube video I think this is going to work since they will all be connected directly to the mobo. If that doesn't work then I am going to try your NZXT hub idea.
IDK. Can it control those LED rings? You can't use normal LED strips. Those LED rings have a printed circuit board that can better handle the heat. Even having a PCB, in the big lamp I burned up the first set of rings when the first heat shield I made out of tin foil fell off into the base. The second set I used this stuff instead. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6F97C9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And that did the trick.
In the smaller 16 inch from Spencer's I gave up on the smaller inner ring. Even wrapping the wiring in tinfoil and then both tinfoil and the aluminized stuff I couldn't get it to stop melting the wiring. There just isn't a big enough gap of air between the bulb and wiring. Soldered on new wires twice and then just gave up so now only the outer ring that sits on the lip under the collar I made to hide the ring works.
They’re 3 pin argb fans. So any argb controller would work.
Cooler Master Addressable RGB Fan Controller with 6 Preset Modes, 7 Colors, Thermal Detection Mode for Fans and Air Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H241TFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2YYGEX4KTA7E0DSW9FF4
This is the cheapest controller I found but it only lets you connect 4 fans. You could buy an rgb splitter cable along with it. It only has basic modes and colors.
As for fan speed. They can connect to your motherboard. You’d need a fan splitter cable to connect all 5 though. I’m assuming there’s only like 2 fan headers in your motherboard. I hope this makes sense
DREVO BladeMaster TE Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Radi RGB Backlit, USB Wired, Programmable Genius Knob, 87K US Layout Tactile Clicky Gateron Brown Switch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H7H7VCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BMHC7B3MCHMFXKXBGBSE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ok. So just to confirm, if I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KC2VZ2V/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza I can connect up to six of the Cooler Master fans I originally asked about. The included molex cable connects into my psu, the rgb is controlled through a mobo usb header, and I connect the fans to the fan headers on the mobo as I do now. Does that sound about right?
This is the 3-pack, it includes a simple little controller. I'm only familiar with Corsair, I don't know if they have software or not.
I found this neon strips that are runner and can be positioned in many ways. Unfortunately I don't believe they work with Alexa. NEON RGB LED Strip for PC, 1 x 31.5 inch RGB LED Strip for 12V 4-Pin RGB LED headers, Compatible with ASUS Aura RGB, MSI Mystic Light, ASROCK Aura RGB Motherboard, with 12pcs Strong Magnetic TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0912PZHSZ/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_HHMX32E62D26VXR4T9NJ?psc=1
I have to use the RGB ones because where the addressable RGB pins are cause many issues and one day my ground pin broke off my 8month old ASUS ROG STRIX B-550F. And they would cover under warranty. So I Said screw it. So this work great.
Thanks for fixing it and the link.
There seems to be a corsair bottom row on that same link that you could purchase instead of using the stock keycaps that would match.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DR4B4CT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Try something like these. You can cut and connect them in almost any configuration.
At the time of writing that both 400mm sets were going for around the same prices. Only a couple bucks different if I remember correctly on Amazon. At current price the Airgoo is a better buy now. The Phantek is better because it's 56 LED per 2x 400mm and each 400mm is a tad longer than the Airgoo. The Airgoo is 42 LED per 2x 400mm.
So if you can manage to get the Phantek at a more reasonable price then they're the better product but 14 LED is not worth so much more in my book. Other than LED amount and an unnoticeable length difference without measuring, they perform the same. I can't tell them apart aside from remembering which I've mounted where. lol I'm glad I got my Phanteks when I did. I'm up to 6 400mm now.
And since I'm on the topic again if you want to something that makes it easy to run either brand ruler straight get some of those clear report folders we use to use in school to make reports look snazzy. The spines fit the strips perfectly. This is not the ones I bought but similar. I don't know why but Amazon didn't keep a record of the ones I actually bought, but these type anyways work awesome and are easy to cut to length. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Report-Slide-Binder-Sheets/dp/B074T4PWS8/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=slide+spine+report+cover&qid=1618842709&sr=8-6
any molex adapter to wall power will give you power.
this isnt 100% what your want but something like this will let you control the rbg. your looking for an rgb fan controller
Check into strips that can be powered by the MagicHome app because they use the MagicHome controller, and they connect via wifi and work with Alexa and Google Home. It's cheap, pretty reliable and you can address each strip separately to create different settings for each strip. Some RGB LED sets include this particular controller.
I had the commander pro cause it came with my iCUE H150i ELITE water cooler. If you have 3 the fan headers on your motherboard so you can control the 9 fans with splitters I don't see the benefit.
I got this usb header splitter https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KK8HP5P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These fan splitters https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8LV1BY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I've just bought 3x sets of these which come with a Lighting Node, so will i be able to customise each RGB then? Or do i need the commander pro also?
Depending on your devices and the iCU headers you should be able to get jumper cables and define the pinout for your ARGB gear. Do not mix 12v devices on 5v headers and vise versa though. I did this for my TT RGB+ controller for coolermaster ARGB fans and junk.
By jumper cables I mean something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVSL53R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
yes, you could get a controller that has the normal 3 pin header, or use Jumping header cables to link them in with out having to splice - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVSL53R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Like i did here for my TT RGB plus controller https://imgur.com/a/XmWuyo2
It'd certainly simplify things, and allow you to make the cables a bit neater - Personally I'd rather not have fans plugged into the motherboard headers as it can look messy...
I can't find how much power each header on the Commander Core can safely output, but the Commander Pro can output 1A per header, and 4.5A total across all the headers. If we assume the Commander Core is the same, in theory you could have 4 fans on one header... Personally I'd be cautious, and maybe just stick to a Y Splitter on 4 of the headers, or 2 3-way splitters at a push.
4 in rgb hub and into lighting node pro. Not familiar with the new commander core but with it and 2 rgb hubs, 2 LNP you have what you need and more. These (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DV1Z0Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_J87ZFbREXGBR9) are good splitters, you can get 3 way too.
Using something like this on each led, and then sticking the strip on top of that would defuse nicely and keep it off the board.
I don't have your board in front of me but from what I can see online, I would try something like this. Stick the long strips right on the LEDs along the bottom, silicone is electrically non conductive, considered an insulator so that's all good. These are clear and would help but they would diffuse light better if you can find something like this but opaque.
Ok that is only in some,I recommend Volivo Dreamcolors Led Strip Lights 32.8ft, 2 Rolls of 16.4ft 5050 Color Changing LED Lights for Bedroom, Room, Kitchen, Home, Party with 24 Key IR Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B81P7KD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_60HSFbBVRD805
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Decorative-Lighting-Controller/dp/B07WHT2VKK
I have a couple of these. I like them a lot butter than a standard RGB strip. 14ft could get expensive though. Might be better off making your own diffuser. Good luck.
Honestly, any 4 pin connector should work. I'd say just find one that you like and make sure to wire the pins correctly. Something like this might be decent.
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Mechanical-RAPIDFIRE-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B07D5S24BP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=k70+rgb+mk.2+white&qid=1594654307&sprefix=k70+rgb+mk.2&sr=8-2 Overall I love the keyboard.. the switches have a very short actuation which is great for reacting while gaming, the key click isn’t too loud but still sounds great to me, and aesthetically it’s a very nice board. Biggest complaint is that the space bar sounds like absolute shit.
This is the link for the cooler. It's a Amazon US link but I bought from Amazon India because that's where I live. I think that's the problem because the coolers cable is RGB and not ARGB. I think I might have to change the cable. Also how do you change the colors on your cooler? Is it through the gigabyte fusion app?
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Dear god that's a link.