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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/SidewinderX1:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/SidewinderX1:
Cults.
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PrusaSlicer
The most popular reviews in /r/SidewinderX1:
And since you are taking it apart upgrade the plastic idler arm with a metal one. It just feels better. Like this one.idler arm😎
No, it won't work as is. That kit is for the Ender 3. I don't know if the thermistor connector is the same as the X1 but you will definitely need to add a connector to the heater. Here's what the X1 kit looks like.
Awesome... Looking to get this print flex sheet, says it comes with an adhesive layer, is that what will give it the magnetic ability? Only because the SX1 is glass so currently, magnetic sheets don't work....
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Thanks...
It could be the heatbed thermistor. Check the heatbed cable and see if there are any kinks or tears in the cable cover. It’s a common point of failure due to the cable cover included from factory.
A method you could try is carefully cutting the factory cable cover and removing it. I replaced it with a textile sleeve like this. If any of the cables are torn, you would unfortunately have to replace the heating pad which included the thermistor. Here’s a video on how to replace it from Artillery 3D’s official YouTube channel: (video)
I priced out options for building an enclosure, and just settled on using the large "creality" enclosure tent - it fits the sidewinder x1 (w/ spool attachment on!) almost perfectly, with a little bit of room left on each side. it's worked wonderfully so far and I plan on attaching ducting to the intake and exhaust of the base/electronics to keep it running cool though I don't think it's necessary
I got this one Capricorn. I upgraded my 3 xi heads, my SV01 and gave 3 x1 sized pieces to a local x1 buddy, I still have half left.
Get one of these in your size and a can of hair spray. Easy Life.
Yeah, it's the same stuff.
Consider using Capricon tubing. It's higher quality and will stand up to high temps for longer without degrading.
I've had this issue a few times before. Stems from moist filament. The popping and smoke are caused by the water present in the material.
I usually fix this issue by dehydrating the filament using a food dehydrator set to 50C for PLA and TPU, 55C for PETG
This is what you need and honestly it's a better more reliable connection with the crimped on ferrules.
Screw Terminal Block Connector 2 Pin 2.54mm Pitch PCB Universal Screw Terminal Block Connector Green 50 Pcs/Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLXR1V9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_T668T6JWFXDE40QKZ0HM
Just desolder the old connector and solder this one in. This is also a really good opportunity to grab you one of the upgraded pcbs from ethereal project 3d. It has upgraded locking ribbon connector, a bl.touch connector, as well as these screw terminals already installed for the heater block.
https://www.etherealproject3d.com/product-page/sidewinder-x1-upgraded-extruder-pcb-assembled
This might be a good choice since your extruder stepper connector has some discoloration as well.
Twotrees Nema17 Stepper Motor 17HS 4023 Stepper Motor Bipolar 42 Motor 4-Lead Wire with 1m Cable 23mm 42BYGH 1.5A Motor for CNC XYZ 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TGJSNJB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4KHK5MFMK3AA6YAF8M1W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This should be it. When I clicked on my old order it took me to one that wasn't the right size. Not OEM but this should be the correct size and mine works great. You should be able to find apart number on your stepper Motor and match it up.
195/60, This Silk PLA filament, fans are stock, nozzle size is 0.4 microswiss. The retraction amounts are listed on the labels in the pic. Esteps 430.92, Nozzle PID P11.64 I0.75 D45.04, Bed PID P52.00 I9.34 D193.12. Notable hardware mods included a BLtouch and Fulaflex 2.0. The firmware is wagster 1.5 and rawr tft firmware (can't remember the version). Here are the rest of my settings
it does seem to be curling pretty hard at the start of your extrusions. once you get some weight on the hanging filament it straightens out. like i said previously though, it looks like your zits/blobs are layer change related and each layer change could cause this curl to start resulting in zits.
i would just buy a bulk pack of cheap nozzles for the time being since you are new and accidents are going to happen. https://www.amazon.com/Volcano-Printed-Filament-Printer-Extrude/dp/B08B5Y3RNN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=360D3UPGHHITI&keywords=.4+volcano+nozzle&qid=1650386929&sprefix=4+volcano+nozzle%2Cap
other than that, my only other suggestion would be to calibrate your E-steps again.
He should grab one of these as it is an awesome set of spare parts to have on hand for his issue and includes the aluminum idler arm.
3D Printer Spare Parts Tita... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B51719F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You bet! So a little while back another Redditor recommended a good periodic cleaning with acetone. I tried it a few times before adding my PEI bed, seemed to get a little more gunk off, but I wasn't a huge fan of using it due to the fumes. My standard cleaning is a few passes with IPA, certainly attacks any finger oils and gets them off. I was having extreme adhesion issues as well, but my issue was a combo of original bed just not working well for me (i think it was mostly me) and i was in a really cold basement. Added PEI sheet, 99% better. Built a sweet, if ugly, enclosure, and that's made life amazing while printing...now that i built the ugly enclosure though it convinced the wife that i should modify a closet in the basement just for housing printers so she doesn't have to see my rediculous enclosure.
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Mission success.
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When i installed the PEI sheet, i gave it two passes with acetone then about 6 (might've been a bit obsessive) with IPA, and all went down great, no issues.
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For nubs: i bought these off amazon. worked well with the magnetic sticker and PEI sheet's added thickness (they're shorter than the OE springs)
Sure thing. I checked on Amazon and this one actually mentions the x1, so it’s probably a good choice.
Jesus mate. That truly is a dud. After reading a few posts I ended up purchasing mine on Amazon just in case I had to return it. Could have saved some money purchasing on Banggood, but I knew it would be a hassle if it I needed to send it back.
Have you seen the side-bed modification some people do? It's meant to be a good space saver, but I imagine it looks a lot better for the health of the wires as well. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/artillery-sidewinder-x1-chaine-cable-cote
Crap....I think I've just talked myself into doing this mod. LOL
I'm in Canada so this one was convenient and works well
3DHUB Double-Sided Smooth and Textured PEI Spring Steel Bed with Magnetic Sheet 320mm*310mm for Creality CR-10S Pro/V2 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08WPBNFDM/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_6WxWb7DXvzdqF
The USB slot has an adaptor installed. Early on I heard complaints about the USB port being fragile and failing after many uses. To prevent mine from failing from constant install and removal of a USB stick, I bought this adaptor to keep mine from fatiguing. I installed the adaptor to the machine, then I could plug the USB stick to the other side of the cable. It's rarely used nowadays, but I'm lazy and just keep it installed to print the occasional artillery cube. I like to print an artillery cube for every filament I buy to be used kind of like color swatches.
I ended up putting a new bed on mine from Filament.com. The newer ones have a different, less stiff kind of sleeving. It's similar to this stuff so I think you could cut the original stuff off and put this on it. It has a slit all the way down so you don't have to remove the wires. Alex Tech 10ft - 1/2 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving For USB Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable – Protect Cat From Chewing Cords - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FW3GTXB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_49WH244SDD46GWXE3XWB?psc=1
If you're using a paper towel to wipe then that will also leave behind fibers, so I would consider a microfiber pad. This is what I use, but it's what I had on hand from polishing furniture after finishing it.
You can use a micro-swiss plated nozzle. I also recommend going up to 0.6mm for abrasive filaments, less prone to clogging.
You should check out the TS100, cheap temperature variable soldering iron with swappable tips. A lot of people in the FPV community uses these for their portable soldering iron but I use it my bench. Get the chisel head tip type though, it's more versatile.
Try replacing the thermistor. The wires are very delicate and one of them may have become damaged.
Yea 100% day and night difference and it fixed the overall quality across all 8 machines.
Here's the link to the couplers I have on all my machines. Pretty sure it's the 5-8mm one.
Befenybay 2PCS 5mm to 8mm Aluminium Plum Flexible Shaft Coupling D20 L25 Connector Flexible Coupler for 3D Printer CNC Machine and Servo Stepped Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZCLZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CYFCC0N3HVGG1RB9Q0GS
Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588508
Cults: https://cults3d.com/fr/mod%C3%A8le-3d/outil/side-spool-system-for-sidewinder-x1
The results on my printer have been really good. No more Z banding, big ghosting reduction.
Micro Usb HUB Adaptor with Power, TUSITA 3-Port Charging OTG Host Cable Cord Adapter for TV Stick, Raspberry Pi 2 3 Pi Zero Android Smart Phone Tablet Samsung Galaxy HTC Sony Google LG/Linux https://www.amazon.it/dp/B078M3Z84Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apannn_glt_i_9P2CPAXRM4BN2CH9DQ8R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get some loctite purple 222 this should help
Just fyi grab one of these while they are on sale. Comes with the mag sheet as well.
HICTOP Upgrades Flexible Build Plate PEI Steel Sheet Textured Bed Works for CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10S pro, CR-10 V2, V3 and Other Same Sized 3D Printers (310310) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CK98H13/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NJ95ANV3HM41T40Q9MNY
The sidewinder uses a copycat Titan Aero extruder, so if you search "Titan aero extruder bearing" you'll find what you need.
After I did some of my own googling, the bearing size code for this part appears to be "MR95ZZ", 9mm OD x 5mm ID x 3mm thickness. That will probably work.
Here's an amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/MR95ZZ-ABEC-5-5x9x3mm-Groove-Bearings/dp/B01J33EY1U
That power supply is probably overkill, but it would work.
One thing I'd consider if I was going that high is an external MOSFET for the hotend instead of the one on the motherboard. It might not be set up for the kind of current you're looking to run. You're probably going to be under 5A, but it can't hurt.
Before upgrading the power supply, I'd consider trying to swap in a higher wattage heater cartridge, like a 70W. I can't seem to find any specifically long enough for the Volcano style hotend, though-- I'm not sure if using one sized for a standard V6 head would result in inconsistent heat. But I did find this kit which claims to have a 64W heater.
Possibly, yes. I want to upgrade my power supply to this, but I’ve been putting it off for a while because I don’t think it’s a drop-in replacement. I’ll probably have to make a mount and rearrange things for it to fit
4 Pieces Anti Backlash Nuts, T8 POM Elimination Gap Spring Loaded Nut, 3D Printer Accessories, Acme Threaded Rod (Pitch 2 mm, 8 mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TLVL95C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_NGYJQD262ZEN7799NNJD
I got these, and I directly replaced the brass and plastic combo pieces that originally came on the machines. 1:1 swap outs.
There’s a lot of guides on how to instal em
It's a powdercoated PEI steel sheet. You place a magnetic mat onto your existing bed, then the steel sheet can be lifted off after print to cool faster, flexed to release large prints easier, and then laid back onto bed to resume printing faster. The company "Fulament" along with other brands sell them. I picked one up for my Ender 3 Pro on Amazon here.
A while back my Sidewinder started having spotty extrusion issues, probably stemming from when I had to disassemble the extruder to clear a clog.
The picture is from when it would still at least extrude some of the time, now it just won't at all.
It just spins on the filament, either slipping right over it or chewing it up and not actually pushing it through the hotend.
Here's the issues I'm having and what I've tried to do to resolve it.
Replaced the nozzle with the spare that came with the printer.
Installed a 3D printer spacer to prevent the idler arm from wandering.
Replaced the extruder gear with this one
Endlessly loosen and tighten the idler arm with no noticeable difference in actually getting it to push filament.
Unplugged, cleaned with alcohol, and re-inserted extruder ribbon cables
I am absolutely losing my mind. What can I do short of ordering a new extruder assembly from Artillery?
I did the Y on my X1 and Genius. I used the printable kit from this guide:
https://3dprintbeginner.com/artillery-linear-rail-y-axis-mod/
I used 2 of these rails:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MFSF5F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll need M3 and M4 nuts and bolts, as well as M3 T-Nuts to secure the rails to the 2040 extrusion. You'll also need drill and a 4mm drill bit to drill through your Y-carriage using the drill guide from the printed kit.
I wouldn't exactly call this mod plug-and-play. You have to make sure you drill cleanly and correctly, or your bed could go back on crooked. But, if for some reason you do screw it up, there are 3 positions on each side you can drill in order to fit an MGN12H carriage block, so you can just drill in other places. This mod is also reversible. But once you get the carriage plate drilled, it's pretty straightforward.
You shouldn't have to modify any firmware or anything. I think you retain the same Z-axis height, and all of your other parameters should stay the same. You might be able to get a little more acceleration out of the Y axis, but I didn't change it-- I was primarily focused on achieving rigidity for my BLTouch.
Just redid my cooling fan and needed to extend my wires. Which required a new connector. This is the set I purchased on Amazon. Has everything you need in it.
Where is "locally"? I mean, you don't have to identify your address or even your city, but a country would be helpful. I very quickly found this on Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756SGNZ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_TKKD477YV9SZVZRMKF9J
What kind of filament do you reccomend brand wise? Currently using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SM2HV6N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EJ8FQWG4TF03TG2RDQ3S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's mainly an adhesion problem or layers not sticking to each other and it peeling up on lower layers.
I did find this which is all metal, I think it'll work on the X1, that should make it all metal
I also just found these: Replacement z axis rods for the Sidewinder that are coated with Teflon! No need for grease with POM anti-backlash nuts
BCZAMD 3D Printer Z Axis Upgrade Parts T8 PTFE Teflon Lead Screw Length 520mm/ 20.4 inch Lead 8mm Pitch 2mm with POM Plastic Nut Compatible Artille Sidewinder x1 Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0912BSNX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AT8FFG3YATSC91QKZK5E
4 Pieces Anti Backlash Nuts, T8 P... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TLVL95C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I ordered this because I wanted spares. You will only need half of the nut since it mates with the blue spacer in there.
It sounds like you’re on the right track for troubleshooting. Your under extrusion might be caused by the PTFE liner. It is another common issue that occurs with this printer and is covered by the last part of Joel Telling’s review video. Check the PTFE liner and replace if deformed or gunked up with filament. It’s inexpensive to replace with some Capricorn PTFE.
The idler arm may be intact now, but it would be a good idea to buy the metal idler arm for when it does eventually break.
You don’t necessarily need a new hotend or extruder yet, unless you print high temp filaments like ASA, PC, Nylon, etc. Upgrading now might introduce new problems for you to diagnose. Use the stock setup and get familiar with it. After that, you’ll get a good feel for if you need to upgrade or not.
I had that same issue! I replaced it with this one ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B018RE4CWW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and it works just fine. It's a 1:1 drop in replacement too.
I got this Sunlu dryer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H7GZ8XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pLQ-FbM6FCXXM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah same roll. I opened it about 6 months ago and hadn't used it a ton since then after first trying it. I put it in the dryer for 6 hours at 50 C. Then while printing I kept it in the dryer with the dryer on. It has rollers in it and a small hole for the filament to go through so it can be used while printing. The brand of filament is Inland which is Microcenter's brand.
How bout this ?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B674TJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_3xp0FbZT1S2KJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The steel one seems very expensive ..but read it may be longer to heat up though I don't have experience in type of metals besides copper and brass are good with heat.
I'm not sure what option to get on amazon..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVCX74T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_lKA0FbE046BAW
Do I just get the bl touch alone or do I need the extender or mount or push pin etc? Thanks
I have been meaning to put the enclosure files on thingiverse, but with all of my Christmas prep, have not had the time. maybe in the new year.
As long as you stay under 250, capricorn will do fine for you. That set has 1m of capricorn and the x1 only needs about 80mm I would change it out about every 500 hrs at those temps. With PLA and some high temp work, I had to change mine out at about 2k hrs.
I have not printed with Taulam, but would really like to hear about your experiences with it.
Do yourself a big favor and do this Calibration with your printer after you print the test files that come with it. Those files help make sure the printer is functioning ok out of the box. That calibration not only does a good job of tuning your printer, but also teaching you all of its in and outs. Also I recommend printing a couple kilos of PLA before experimenting with any high temp materials. It will take that long for you to get your slicer tuned and it dialed in.
I got these on amazon. If it included 2 more you'd have enough for the whole printer. I definitely plan to do the y and x wheels, maybe z wheels in the future. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L1Z87PZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mine was a V4 with smooth bore (no threads). I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SC1XYGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_7aATFb4CJTCJP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I wish I went with a higher end model (bi-metal perhaps), since I did have issues with clogging and needed to oil my filament to mitigate the issue. I even lapped the interface to help:
https://amp.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ivnxtl/artillery_sidewinder_x1_heatbreak_side_lapping/
Hop you have better luck OP. I am still happy to move to a hotend since I only print in high temp PETG.
The stepper motor sounds very much like only half the coils are working causing the motor to rotate back and forth between two steps as the only working coils switch polarity.
My first guess would be the ribbon cable is not fully seated somewhere. If the cable appear fully seated you can check for continuity with a meter between the motor harness and the driver board.
Second guess would be a dead stepper driver board, which can happen if the cable had an intermittent connection. The driver board is pretty intelligent at controlling current flow thru the stepper coils, but an intermittent inductive load due to a bad connection can cause current / voltage spikes the board can't cope with fast enough. I mention this as you can check for a bad board by swapping it with one of the drive axis boards, BUT if the electrical connection between the board and the stepper motor is still flaky you may end up with two dead boards along with a bad cable or connection.
The stepper driver boards are generic units, available on amazonor other common sites.
The X1 isn't offered on a prime day deal. It's still $439 last I checked. Still worth it. The huge build volume is a game changer. You won't regret it. If you really need something cheaper, I'd get this now on sale through prime day: https://www.amazon.com/FLSUN-Lastest-Auto-Leveling-Printing-size%CE%A6255x360mm/dp/B07C3FLY6P/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sidewinder+x1&psr=PDAY&qid=1602680794&s=prime-day&sr=1-2
Check out Heat High Temperature Resistant Adhesive Gold Tape I use it in a couple places on my printer. I put a layer of this around the hot end under the silicone boot. it is .025 mm so If you put a single wrap of this around the PTFE, you should get a lot snugger fit.
It is referred to as a Kraken heatbreak. I did a search and came up with this https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Thermal-Chimera-Cyclops-Printer/dp/B07JD2S4GK/ref=rtpb_4/144-5267715-2861336?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JD2S4GK&pd_rd_r=f218e9cc-c3de-4cf8-9566-6c7adc6507f9&pd_rd_w=39z5k&pd_rd_wg=5bX9p&pf_rd_p=49740592-2805-416d-896c-b825ad91c2cf&pf_rd_r=PF8KM632A5JCWQWF8MZT&psc=1&refRID=PF8KM632A5JCWQWF8MZT which looks like it mostly. but it does not have the flat slot at the top. Other that that the dimensions look right.
>G-10/FR4 Sheet
Amazon has a 6 pack of 12 x 12in G10/FR4 for $45. https://smile.amazon.com/Phenolic-G-10-FR-4-Sheet-Natural/dp/B00NMVDFG0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=G-10%2FFR4+Sheet&qid=1600580816&sr=8-2
>I just upgraded to a bi-metal heatbreak and nickel-plated copper heater block (along with silicone sock) so don't have to worry about the PTFE tubing melting or gassing pets at higher temps.
I just got a titanium heatbreak (with a bi-metal one on the way from aliexpress, needed something from amazon to get my printer back up), but how does that eliminate the PTFE tubing? Is there a metal "throat" or something that goes above it in place of the PTFE, or do I just discard the PTFE tubing and allow the filament to feed directly into the top of the heatbreak? This is the heatbreak I bought