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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/TinyWhoop:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/TinyWhoop:
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The most popular reviews in /r/TinyWhoop:
There's nothing for bind and fly with expressLRS yet, you'd have to install the receiver yourself, so you need to read/YouTube how to do that. Honestly, it's not that hard. But you can also get the Meteor 75 with crossfire if you aren't trying to jump straight into the deep end. It'll probably be a bit more upfront, but when you get into bigger drones, you'll already have the hardware. And if you go crossfire, you'd be supporting TBS, which, as far as I can tell, seems like a solid company with good innovation. I like to bang the expressLRS drum as I'm a big proponent of open source software and the open source community in general.
Reverse pliers! This tool is 100% the best purchase I have made for FPV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002INOFSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get that guy, then file the tips of the tool down so it has a thinner profile and can be slid under your props. The lightest squeeze will pop off a prop that otherwise I'd spend 10 mins struggling with my bare hands.
Looks like the GNB 300 aren't available at amazon at the moment.
BetaFPV 300mAh are probably exactly the same.
This is the power supply that I use. It's a little under powered at 3 amps. If your lipos are 500mah or lower it will be fine. If you need more power look for the toolkitrc 5amp power supply.
I tried these iflight sigmas and they worked really well. Favorite things are that they’re super light AND it’s a 2 pack! I ripped one up with a propeller because of poor cable management but had a spare ready to go immediately. They are a bit on the long side though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08922XCLR?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_B6WE460R8XFGGB54TV85
I also have the TrueRC Singularity and it works very well and is a better length but $20 is a bit much to have to keep buying them. The length makes it so that I will never get it in my propellers though.
I’m also waiting on the TrueRC Smol one too! Really excited to try that one out.
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094QTHSQX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
gnb 450mah. They give me about 5min flat when im pushing hard
>Vifly whoopstor.
100%, the best charger and the ability to charge/store 6 batteries at a time is really incredible.
For batteries, I started with the emax 450mah at 15g weight and get around 4 minutes of flight on the mobula 7. I recently tried the 850mah GNB 1S at 17G weight (only 2 more grams) and wow, I get 8 minutes easily and 9 if just cruising around and I don't even notice the tiny bit of extra weight. Highly recommend these if you can pay the few extra dollars for them.
>The Cobra x are actually cheaper than the EV200d
Not sure where you are that they are cheaper but the cobra X's are $250 - $319 for US stores, $209 for Aliexpress china delivery.
The ev800d's are $98 - $120 with amazon being the cheapest surprisingly. I did find an aliexpress 15 hour deal for them at $68 and it's an incredible deal if one can purchase now.
I would prefer to order from Amazon or RDQ
Ok cool. I honestly haven't done enough research to distinguish brushed vs unbrushed but i'll look those up now
This looks like roughly what I'm looking for in terms of price, but I'd have to see if I can source replacements for the FC component separately once I buy the controller: https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-Controller-Receiver-Transmitter-Gamepad/dp/B07WR9Y1HG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Also would have to figure out how to somehow flash software for it similar to E010 software
Take a look at the jst battery plug. Sometimes those pins get a little loose and disconnect briefly on crashes. Ive had this problem on 2 different whoops and this was the cause both times. Usually its the female end of the plug
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Connector-Battery-Inductrix-Eachine/dp/B07NWD5NTN
Was on the phone before sorry for lack of detail.
Follow this guide: https://oscarliang.com/bluejay-blheli-s/
The mobula 7 can run 2s no problem. If you upgrade to an xt30, make sure it has a capacitor on the battery lead. I just purchased something like this which already had one on it: https://www.amazon.com/QWINOUT-Capacitor-Sailfly-X-TRASHCAN-Crazybee/dp/B07ZPZBPLL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N81WDDWK2N13&keywords=xt30+plug+capacitor&qid=1654974865&sprefix=xt30+plug+capa%2Cap
Also the 96khz upgrade is a MUST in my opinion.
Are your motors hot after flying? Mine were. Now I can full send for 3 minutes and they are barely warm at all.
Get a PineCil portable soldering iron. Newer, better than TS80/TS100. And if it's been 40 years since shop class, might wanna look at those magnifying headsets they sell on Amazon. I like this one with rechargeable battery. And some of that good Kester 0.5mm solder.
I don't even like to use a charger to discharge batteries coz I killed an ISDN q6 that way. somehow. I like this URUAV pcb discharger. they sell over banggood, so international shipping. might be able to find em for sale closer to you.
Amazon has stuff like this that turns off when it hits 3.8v and a google of 'lipo discharge DIY" yields a wealth of info.
I use tweezers like this and this prop tool.
Thanks! I bought a model that looks pretty close:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FD741J7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
However, regardless of settings, It charges to ~4.20 volts. I just ordered one from HappyModel, We will see how that does.
I've been using this venom 1s 4 port charger for about 9 months now and pretty happy with it overall.
https://us.amazon.com/Venom-Micro-Channel-Battery-Charger/dp/B071K7ZNSZ
My only complain is that the little plastic piece in the MCPX ports can come out if you're not careful when removing the batteries so gotta keep an eye on that.
Otherwise it seems to reliably charge to 4.35 on the LiHV setting.
I got a seperate discharger recently as this doesn't discharge.
This one works like a charm
I bought this for my 2s to 4s lipos:
Venom Pro 0699 LiPo Battery Checker Multitool
And this when I accidentally chopped my balance connector:
And made an adapter with connectors above and some spare whoop battery pigtails so the battery checker could discharge/balance up to 6 1s whoop batteries at the same time.
The way the discharger circuit is designed you can discharge less than 6 if you plug them in next to each other starting at the right side.
Are this connectors the same as powerwhoop ans jst ph 2.0 from micro motor? And this batteries?
The jumper t lite likely doesn't have the current needed to drive a nano module. That's why there's a special Happy Model ELRS kit that connected directly to the battery. It might still work, but if you want the best option:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095KJ53CT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nick has a couple videos on it, here's one, check his other videos though:
Goggles may be worth an upgrade, and if you stick with analog quads that is certainly worth doing.
Also maybe get a good charger. This works for me, and charges fast:
I use my ender2 and ender3 for 3d printing. Its really mostly user settings on all 3d printers. Correct bedlevel and settings. Dont need to get too expensive stuff. I owned an anet a8 and creality cr10 before. The ender 2 and 3 are more than enough for tinkering. Below an (ahemmm) affiliate link if you wish to purchase a cheap good one: https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-3-V-slot-Prusa-I3-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220x220x250mm-Printing-Size-p-1278399.html?rmmds=search&p=GS29073405097201512C&custlinkid=359582
if I had to buy right now, I'd probably get one of these https://www.banggood.com/URUAV-6-in-1-PRO-5X4_35W-5X1A-Battery-Charger-for-1S-LiPOLiHvLi-ion-Battery-Charger-With-Micro-MX-mCPX-JST-p-1409131.html
but thats only because I like screens. lol. I'm currently using one of these, the Boldclash P01, and I think I paid about $10. It's been doing great for months with my whoop and Mobula 7 batteries https://www.ebay.com/itm/BoldClash-P01-WhooPower-1S-LIHV-LIPO-Switchable-Charger-Board-MAX-MCPX-MCX-MOLEX/362562940491
Try a thin tip, lower heat, and flux. I've had good luck with these pens.
MG Chemicals 835-PX2 Flux Pen Soldering, 2 x 10 mL, Amber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GVRMZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3QRZMS09YYVKYF3YM9TD
I just added an active buzzer to my toothpick, which might be what you're looking for. Won't help in case of a battery ejection but as long as the quad is powered it's super loud.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B073RH8TQK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_TC52D569QTAZ547JFX00
Yeah most likely a bad antenna. Check the antenna for any damage. A lot of the time the ground braid will shear around the u.fl collar where it's crimped. Also check that the u.fl connector on the board is soldered and hasn't pulled apart from the board.
I usually buy these for replacements. The antennas are quite long. You can cut it to a desired length then strip the black jacket and cut the ground braid back. Make sure the exposed length is the same as the original antenna.
iFlight 150mm 2.4G Receiver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD445X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have this screw kit that has various lengths of m1.4 screws (among other sizes). The nice thing there is you can use shorter ones for motors and longer ones for the canopy.
Upgraded XT30 Parallel Charging Board for 1S 2S 3S LiPo Batteries Compatible with XT30 JST JST-PH 2.0 Connector LiPo Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZY8FBT1/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_0N9TGZ0888DJ6YA591SF
hopefully this works, sorry i dont know how to properly link it...
The TBS charger USB input port says 5v/2.1a. I'm pretty sure you're limited with how much power can go through the USB port, regardless of a better charging brick.
That charger looks like it's meant to be powered by a DC charger, like a laptop charger. The USB charging is cool for charging off your car but the tradeoff is charging time. It can also be powered off of another larger battery for field charging.
Get the charger in the link below or look around your house for a charger that will fit into the DC port:
I fly the RDQ 450s in my lite7 and they fit well. I hear the GNBs are good as well and it seems like these 520s will fit. Not sure if it's advisable to mod your frame to fit your current batteries, but always possible
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T2TVXLN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XY8GB7M09ZAP7CJEVR9P?psc=1
Thanks for the charging board recommendation! I will be switching batteries to this GNB 350 mAh HV 6 pack
These are the "gates" I use and here's the Thingiverse link
EDIT: I changed the title for this sub but it didn't save. Hmph.
So the blue one is one of my old V2 gates. I've always wanted to keep them battery powered, and lightweight so I can affix them to anything I want wherever we're racing just using some twisty gear ties (they're acting as the feet in this photo)
I'm using a USB power bank for the power supply. 30led/Meter led strips. 1/2" pex tubing. And the tricky bit is the controller. I bought a few of these But the app they come with is terrible. But you can take them apart, and flash 3rd party firmware onto them allowing me to run WLED so all the gates synch and other cool stuff. Removed the barrel connector and soldered in a USB plug, flashed, and bob's your uncle!
I've got parts for a half dozen more on the way, but these were just the first tests. 60leds/meter might have been nice for a little more even light distribution, but with 30 I'm not stressing AMP draw on the pack, or battery life for a long race event.
Hope the idea is helpful to someone!
I like these Crazepony 550 mAh 1S batteries:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9P4CZL
I get 3-4 minutes out of them on my Tinyhawk S depending on how hard I fly.
I use these for checking voltage:
CAMWAY 5PCS 2in1 1-8s Lipo Battery Voltage Tester,RC Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm,Battery Monitor Checker Tester for 1-8s Lipo/Li-ion/LiMn/Li-Fe https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_tbmRFb7HGSMNS
The uruav works great. The buttons are small, but it remembers the setting between uses. So I set mine to 3.8v and don’t mess with it. I can plug in a battery at night and it is done in the morning. Wish I had more of them, but I guess it’s not too bad to “have” to fly before bedtime! 🤪
$42.99 on Amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/BETAFPV-Quadcopter-Silverware-Firmware-Controller/dp/B07CV8WVZ2
I'm testing it right now, and so far it flies quite well. The camera doesn't have the greatest low-light performance, but it's not bad. The build quality is very, very good.
It is a Wolfwhoop WT05 Micro AIO 600TVL Camera Only 3.4g 5.8GHz 25mW FPV Transmitter with Dipole Brass Antenna Combo for FPV Quadcopter Drone -Amazon for $16.55 - here: Wolfwhoop WT05 Micro AIO 600TVL Camera Only 3.4g 5.8GHz 25mW FPV Transmitter with Dipole Brass Antenna Combo for FPV Quadcopter Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RgXtDbW460RBG
Looks good. Qx7 is the best radio to start with, but it doesn't come with a battery. The FrSky battery sold on Amazon is good, so is this one from HobbyKing. You're gonna need a charger, I like the ISDT q6 Pro.
This guy I grabbed off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY3QSIE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3.8v batteries designate HV (high voltage) which charge up to 4.35v. Where normal lipos are 3.7(4.20 fully charged)
You'll want 1s 450mAh HV batteries same as the original because larger batteries will greatly affect the performance from the added weight. Emax/URUAV/GNB/RDQ are all great battery brands for the Tinyhawk.
You can geta 5pack of URUAV 450mah batteries for $21 w/free shipping on eBay from US sellers. Racedayquads.com also have a 5pack of their own batteries for $21 + shipping.
These are from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Batteries-Compatible-Quadcopter-TinyHawk-HAPPYMODEL/dp/B07X1T44QT/
I had luck improving the range by switching out the cam and VTX completely. You can fit this VTX by BetaFPV on top of the FC (just place it above the black jellies) under the canopy.
IIRC the tinyhawk is directly soldered on, correct? So these are perfect.
A few options. You can actually just solder a wire there. I've done it, but it didn't work as well as a shielded antenna since it's harder to control the length.
You can buy ready to solder antennas These work well enough and come pre-tinned so they're easy to install.
Hard mode!! This is what I've done on my whoops. To save weight over a dipole antenna, I use just a whip antenna I cut off the connection, and excess shielded wire down to the length I want, maybe a little less than an inch. Then you have to strip the outer insulation, separate the signal wire out, and strip a tiny bit of it back, and solder it on. Then cut down the exposed element to 12.922mm (calipers really help here to get as close as possible) Really works about the same as the much heavier (about 0.5g) dipole antennas, and they're cheaper, I had some laying around.
take your time, and if you haven't already, invest in a proper soldering station. Doesn't need to be extravagant but should have the ability to change tips and adjust temp and be rated around 60 watts. This one is a great option for the price. Also get tweezers and a smaller tip for the iron
Tiny whoop ain't cheap. Racedayquads is my favorite source.
Budget charger I use is on Amazon and you'll need the charging cable as well. Perfectly serviceable for 1s batteries.
Charger is listed in the frequently bought together section.
Upgraded 1S LiPo LiHV Charger Board for Blade Inductrix Tiny Whoop Micro JST 1.25 and JST-PH 2.0 1S LiPo Battery with JST and Micro Losi Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ5ZJ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YCFRDbQDDQTBP
Any insulated wire, don't want a short :) I bought a roll of Magnet wire off amazon so I'd have plenty to spare for this type of thing. The only problem is it's really tricky to get the enamel off to solder it, I use sandpaper.
there actually lighter than the stock 450 mah emax packs.. around 14 grams.. i think the emax pack was like 15 grams..
i get about 2 minutes with the 450 mah packs. i can only charge to 4.20v per cell tho i dont have a HV charger..
these are what i got. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-PowerWhoop-Connector-Rechargeable-Inductrix/dp/B07CHMM252/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tinyhawk+600+mah+battery&qid=1567634624&s=gateway&sr=8-1
you can also see a few of my flights that i posted on here where i get like 2.5 or 3 min of flight time.. when i land at 3.2v and put them on the batter checker they bounce back up to about 3.7 or 3.8 v..
I use this Ultrapower UP-S6. You can power it at home via a power supply with an XT60 connector or in the field with a LiPo (3 fully charged 4S 1300mah is enough for a night of continuous charging). It has 6 individual channels so you can just keep plugging 1S LiPos in after a flight and keep cycling them during a session.. https://www.amazon.com/UP-S6-Battery-Charger-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B0757JK2YS
> The telemetry is reading 3.2 but aren't they actually going to be higher than that after you pull them off ?? I didn't really see that info in that link there
Yes usually they will. Once there is no load (including the FC and the VTX) the battery chemistry will rebound a little and show a bit more voltage. i suggest getting a charger with a voltage indicator on it.
> I don't have a voltage checker that can do one cell packs
https://www.amazon.com/BETAFPV-Upgrade-Battery-Voltage-Inductrix/dp/B071RVDM8C
I’ve been using these with good luck.
I’ve also been abusing them pretty heavily. I’ve charged them to 4.35 instead of 4.2 with the LiHV charger that comes with the tinyhawk and I’ve left them charged for a while longer than I should. They’re cheap enough that if they wear out I’ll just buy more.
On YouTube there are some battery review shootouts where they compare performance but I’ve been more concerned about availablility than tracking down the perfect battery.
Hope this helps!
He's saying it's just some coax, stripped a quarter wavelength. Any small coax will be identical. I'd be curious if the vtx burnt out without an antenna though.
This was in some quick Amazon search for 'sma'
DZS Elec 2pcs RG316 Wire Jumper 15cm SMA Male to SMA Male with Connecting Line RF Coaxial Coax Cable Antenna Extender Cable Adapter Jumper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FS4WMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XfibDb9N2X6CD
Alert at 3.0. These batteries will recover back close to 3.8 after resting when I bring them in. The stock batteries did puff almost out of the gate and never were very good quality.
I replaced the battery connector with these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZVQF8J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XgY3CbRDNFD2K
I LOVE my UR65. I tinker a lot with it, and fly it almost daily. My go to frame is the Betafpv 65 It's taken endless beatings and keeps on trucking. The only problem I had with the stock frame, like the one /u/kekafuch linked, was the battery holder was weak. It didn't hold that securely, and broke on my original build after not too many crashes.
> So a 65mm frame can fit the 7x16 motors as long as it is called out as such? like this... > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HN8WGJC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AHYBUG4B9GJPC&psc=1
Yes, that's correct, The frame will list the brushed motor size so you know what is compatible.
>So therefore, I assume there is no global this frame fits that size motor. It has to be called out on the frame no matter the size motor and frame?
For brushed motors, correct. Because a brushed motor is simply a metal cylinder with a motor shaft on one end and wires protuding the other end. There are no screw holes to hold the motors. Thus the frame must be built to hold that specific motor using a friction fit.
Brushless motors have more standardized mounting on the bottom which makes it easier to use one frame with multiple different sized motors depending on how it's configured.
Typically one decides where they are flying, and then chooses the frame/motor configuration based on where and how they are flying.
For slow and steady indoor flying, 65mm is the preferred frame size. For outdoor frames I prefer something a bit bigger and more rigid with stronger motors.
7x16mm motors in a 65mm frame is a very popular setup these days because it has enough thrust to carry around an FPV camera, but not too much thrust to get into trouble crashing into something/someone.
65mm with 7x16 motors would be optimal for a classroom setup.
Careful when selecting frames though, many of them look the same, but different manufacturers have different materials making them better or worse. I'm a fan of BetaFPV frames because they seem to hold up better than some other frames I've used from other brands (like Eachine)
Upgraded 1S LiPo LiHV Charger... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ5ZJ1V?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is great, except for the shipping envelope, had to get 3 sent to me. Perhaps they corrected it after feedback. It's great though. All separate circuits and supports lihv and regular lipo. Easy connector.
Gnb and betafpv are decent brands. 230 or 260 are common recommendations for size.
Yeah I love the E011C. I just ordered 2 more off aliexpress for $10 each. It uses the same square batteries as the E013 too but can be modded for tiny whoop stick-style batteries. The flight controller can be flashed with upgraded third-party flight software too using an STLink V2 USB programmer which gives makes it fly amazing. More stable level mode, better collision recovery, more speed and power, and different flight modes. The E013 camera is great btw. Really good picture compared to a lot of the cheap All-In-One cams you can buy.
EDIT: Shop around for the "JJRC H67" too. It's the exact same thing under a different brand name, but you may or may not be able to find that one cheaper.
Ive been using the Wolf Whoop batteries on Amazon. The same price as the GNB batteries but you get one more battery and they fit the cockroach frame better in my experience.
​
I did see those and the reviews didn't look good. I decided to return my Eachine EV800D and get these FXT Vipers instead https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DBXVZKB. I need reading glasses and couldn't see well with the Eachine's.
Have you seen these goggles? https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-720x540-Resolution-Antennas-Quadcopter/dp/B076Q7CWJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529685972&sr=8-3&keywords=eachine+goggles&dpID=31qMlN4TFJL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
They are about the same price but are not the box form factor. I've seen a few reviews of them and they are generally recommended for the price. Although not sure if there is a specific reason you picked the ones you picked.
Although there is a negative review I just found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJUWe_p8qp8
same thing was happening to me when I got my whoop, I was using those square batteries that come with the E010 and a single tiny whoop official stick battery(i've never charged to HV bc I don't feel like i need to) my whoop would fall after a few seconds with the E010 batts but not with the good one. Try some crazepony batteries off of amazon, they even come with an extended cable to solder on https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523912747&sr=8-3&keywords=crazepony
i have a similar setup camera wise to you
so i guess ive been over thinking it all along with the 3d printed mounts ive been trying to use. gonna give hot glue a shot later today when i get home from running my errands.
try not to crash lens first into anything i guess. mine have always had fine enough threading where the vibration never made them come loose. right now im using one of these and ive hot glued the camera down low between the front ducts. actually much easier to fly this way and it keeps the center of gravity nice and low for better handling. the added benefit is im more likely to slam the ducts into something than the camera lens
I just snagged this up for a low profile build. It seems to fly a lot nicer than having one strapped on top of it.
yeah e011 and some cam would be even cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYQHW44 is the charger i use, i don't have an ISDT charger so i'm much help there sorry.
if you do build one i can vouch for this camera: https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-600TVL-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y but i mean i'm sure the crazpony is fine too.
Again, no answer from BFPV but perhaps you can confirm? Is the non receiver OSD board SBUS? Description does not specify. https://www.amazon.com/BETAFPV-Controller-Betaflight-Receiver-Version/dp/B071LPK9FT/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1511976152&sr=8-7&keywords=betafpv+osd
Get this combo then put your favorite board and camera. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2FPH4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have the Crazepony AIO and it is an excellent choice. The canopy that it includes fits this frame.
If this is the same board in the Beta75 then, I was sent three lemons and has a fourth on the way. My issues might have been caused by either poor packing, shipping, handling or lack of QC. Mr. MicroMotor's board was DOA and so was my friends. Their customer support is horrible compared to other vendors on Amazon however, they do try and make things right, even if it takes forever hahaha.
/u/4lch3my Just to follow up, I decided to keep the BFPV 260's and ordered their 230 LiHV for a somewhat long term comparison test. Opinion still stands, 260 BFPV aren't worth the extra weight and price compared to their 230 LiHV.
Was about to order more BFPV 230 LiHV's until I saw this. It's a shorter version of their original 260. Ordered a set, hoping it will give the same amount of flight time as the 260's that come with the E011's but with more punch. According to the specs, is the same weight as the regular length 230's. So pumped, so much new shit on Amazon everyday, there should be another sub related to Amazon finds.
I am no pro but, I was thinking the same. The receiver is integrated into the FC and JST already comes pre-soldered.
The joints look solid, I wonder if it has anything to do with the way it was shipped which, was in a lightly padded envelope. Camera is connected via pin which, was bent, smashed during shipping. Looks promising but, sucky packaging and experience along with their support. Was able to achieve a 19 gram build without even trying with this combo. Too bad hahaha.
Might just have a bad motor in there that's holding all the others back. I got the betafpv motors package and this batteries package and I can get almost 4 minutes if I don't push it. I get about 3.5 minutes for an average flight.
https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-FX798T-Antenna-Omnidirectional-Connector/dp/B01M13YOJ7
At $2 each, pre-tinned, those are a bargain. I soldered one on a TX03 a few hours ago, quality item. Much more resilient to rollovers, and you can bend it straight back for better clearance.
it is the Eachine EF-01 camera. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZ63JD6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (the first picture on amazon should help with my description) It is kind of oddly connected. The camera has a connector on the back of it instead of wires. It included a connector (that looks very similar to the battery connectors) that 2 wires coming out of that. I Soldered those two wires to the top of the board where the battery input is on the bottom. I then rubber band the camera in place.
So essentially I have soldered a red and a black wire to the points where the battery inputs where already soldered to the inductrix board. On the other ends of the red and black wires I added, there is a connector that plugs into the camera.
You can also find similar rings on Amazon for a little more if your dollar store deosn't carry them.
Buy a whole set of the connectors and make your own pigtails and use the male ends to modify your micro-JST batteries https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DUC1O68/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3G4BHAI7BWOKN
The charger claims to work with >Any other RC 3.7V 1S LiPo battery with JST
The batteries are Micro JST 1.25, so not sure if the charger will work. I use this one to charge mine
The batteries you linked are the correct ones, yes.
Do you not want to solder or you dont know how? you can build one with an F3 board so you can add beta flight for a little more (if you have a transmitter already that is)
These are what I'm using, are they shit?:
Skip the Eachine and get the Inductrix. Trust me its worth it just for the controller and upgradability alone. You will need the UM adapter to charge the wider 1S batteries (EFLA7002UM) if you use this charger. This is meant for Inductrix whoops and ultra small connectors. Just get one of these instead https://www.amazon.com/Youcute-Official-Battery-Charger-Quadcopter/dp/B014GWWQ1S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1477432816&sr=8-3&keywords=eachine+e010+battery