It looks like there are springbars at each end that hold the strap in place. If you take a springbar tool and put the fork over the "pin" at either corner, it will push in towards the strap; pull the strap away from the watch a bit, and when you release the springbar, that side will be unhooked. Repeat for the other side, and you'll be able to get at the back of the watch. Be careful- since they are spring-loaded, springbars like to go flying across the room. Fortunately, replacements are cheap.
The book you are looking for is The Theory of Horology, which has all the math for calculating things such as mainspring strengths, ideal escapement geometries, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RF6QT2/
I just went and googled what new SKX prices are like. Are they fucking serious? I got mine for at least half this. Is this price gouging because Seiko is closed down or something? How can they expect this much money for a non-hackable movement or sapphire crystal?
Also note how watches (especially seiko) look an awful lot different in their amazon pictures than they do in proper pictures/real life - take for example, how "meh" the new presage cocktail time looks on its amazon listing (note how the watch looks wildly different in the first image compared to the latter ones) and then compare that to how gorgeous the watch looks in this recent Hodinkee article - basically what I'm trying to say is, the two watches you've linked are probably just the same model of watch produced in different places, and you've gotten confused and thought there were actual differences between the two due to Seiko's notoriously confusing product naming
I've seen this version several times but all the feedback I've heard about it suggests it isn't very high quality and doesn't work all that well. Lots of complaints about how single parts are printed on multiple sheets of paper and this have to be glued together and add to the complication.
The clock I assembled was a different one, from a set of Japanese instructions, so if you don't read it you'll have to follow along with the pictures and do the best you can. Here's the model I made. I picked up metal tubes for the axles from a local hardware store, all the rest is just the cardstock it was printed on and glue, with some copper/lead ballast in the weight. It did function, but one or two of the large gears have since warped and now cause too much friction for it to operate on its own, but it will properly go if you manually force it. You can see an old picture of mine here.
My advice would be take it slow, make all your cuts precisely, if you mess something up, print out another copy and redo it. Glue everything neatly and squarely, press things until fully dry so they dry flat and don't warp. These take time. I'd estimate 75 hours conservatively. Be very patient. Every shortcut you take or small mistake you think 'oh it will be alright' will add up and result in problems down the line.
Well done! You should definitely check into the stem/pusher gaskets though — the sample might have them, but if not, it can at least accommodate new ones.
I've actually done this same thing twice, but they were very different experiences. The first time went easily, like yours (fortunately, since this was for a client) — the sample had a destroyed movement in, so it was a direct movement swap.
So then I got the idea of "restoring" a sample titanium 7T32 chrono, but this time there was no movement — the hands were mounted to little studs taped to the back of the dial, and, more problematically, the dummy pushers were too long to work with a real movement. I was able to pull the pushers from the donor 7T32's case, but the movement spacer was the wrong size for the new case — a problem I still haven't worked out...
It was a Christmas gift from my mom. You can find it on Amazon Wristwatch Annual 2017: The Catalog of Producers, Prices, Models, and Specifications https://www.amazon.com/dp/0789212625/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wpkzybEWJAD2Z
It's well worth it IMHO
Yes, both of those tools should allow you to open most common (e.g. Timex, Seiko etc) backs. Just so we're on the same page, this is that I mean by a crystal lift. As far as poly watch goes, I have never used it. I did one watch using brasso on the crystal; however after that I just replace the crystals. A good source is esslinger. If you have access to twitch, mr_horologist is really informative. Mark Lovick is great on youtube. Enjoy the hobby!
Thank you! I think I’m gonna try to do the movement replacement it is the 7s26 movement. I actually own a pretty cheap watch repair kit for when I got into changing batteries. I think this could be a good first step into this wonderful world of horology, should I get just the 7S26 movement and go from there?
I used this for to change batteries.
But before you consider dropping almost 100$ on a wrench, Try a caseback ball. For less than 10$ you can use something that works easily 4 out of 5 times.
Maybe those bottles were an old offering from Moebius, but I'm not 100% on that? The new 1mL bottles are clear with a black cap. But, you could just buy your own 1ml bottles here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ILCCUN4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KiyJDb3J2GG92
Edit: spelling
Something like this? along with this case closer?
I found a crystal holder as well. Now I just need to find a 19mm leather band (in whatever color he wants) and a replacement battery. Looking at it closely, there is some kind of white paint scuff on it and possibly a rust spot on the side of the case behind the crystal. So I'll have to get at that with a tube of PolyWatch right?
Your input is very much appreciated. Thanks so much!
It took a bit to get through Amazon, but if you want a good book that is not super technical but goes through all the sections of a timepiece (mostly wristwatches), I recommend "Theory of Horology"
https://www.amazon.com/Theory-Horology-Charles-Andre-Reymondin/dp/B000BD6ARI
Despite its title, there really isn't any theory in it. It does reduce each system down to its components and has pretty good diagrams and explanations. It is a school textbook. I'd recommend George Daniels's book after this one simply because he has so much information that it can be a bit overwhelming IMO.
Also, I can't recommend Mark Lovik's Youtube channel on watch repair enough. He does really well with his presentation and editing. He has quite a few videos of complete teardowns and rebuilds which was exactly what I needed to see in terms of what the hands on is like.
edit: verbiage
It's quite important to know the theory; this Swiss textbook is a priceless resource and will equip you with all the knowledge you will need to begin practical learning! I found it very useful during my studies.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Theory-Horology-Charles-Andre-Reymondin/dp/B000BD6ARI
Bulova is shoving the movement in some ladies watches now, which are sub-40mm, like this 30mm model. I think the mens designs are more about aesthetics. That said, they use a large CR2016 battery (like a CMOS battery), which does add a lot of bulk.