What are /r/ZeroMotorcycles' favorite Products & Services?

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If you can, do a capacity test. You'll only need 1 tool: a Kill-A-Watt meter.

Drain the bike to empty. Attach the meter to the charger cord. Do a full charge. Report back with the numbers.

1. Something like a griplock, doubles as a park break. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NS6MR0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That, and putting either tire against the curb. EDIT: Amazon link to griplock that I meant to paste in.
2. I've been told that the charge and power tanks now have to be factory installed options. Possibly, due to the high current cabling and the way that it has to be routed.

Any 32 amp unit that plugs into a 14-50 should do the trick. Sometimes, on those EVSEs, they have a toggle for 16 or 32. Is yours accidentally set to 16? I have that option on the Duosida unit here that plugs into my 14-50.

Also, pedantic note, what you're describing is an EVSE station, not a charger. The chargers are on your bike. The EVSE is a glorified extension cable.

https://www.amazon.com/TUINCYN-H3-Headlight-Headlamp-Conversion/dp/B081GT9P14/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Tuincyn+h3+led&qid=1627492821&sr=8-5

I didn't properly reinstall the rubber caps because i wasn't sure how well the heat sinks would work, I'm unsure what the side effects of that will be though

I'm a hater? I own one and just called it fun.

The base level Zeros (S, DS, FX*) are really nice toys but they aren't perfect and to me - especially not for beginners.

Look at the app reviews, 2.3/5 for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ZeroMotorcycles&hl=en_US&gl=US

I bought this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY8LB5S/ ) a week ago, been through two absolute downpours of rain and no water has made it through. So I'd recommend it on that alone. It seems thick and tear resistant too, plus the size I ordered (XL) fits my bike easily even with the windscreen, top box, and saddlebags installed.

And if you don't like the app you can still use zeroNG for Android https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=be.hcpl.android.zeronextgen or iOS https://apps.apple.com/be/app/zerong/id1488172044?l=nl (which is a shameless plug but it's free anyway)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DCTJCTV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you just want a cheap option for helmet storage, why not use a cargo net like this and just strap the helmet to the Pillion seat securing it to the hand rails? I use my cargo net all the time, fits nicely in the space under the seat when not in use. This the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Stretches-Luggage-Adjustable-Motorcycle-15-715-7/dp/B08R7Q8WBM

As stated by others, this isn't necessarily the sign of a bad tire, especially after it's sat for a while and there's been temperature changes. I would certainly have a look over the tire for any puncture marks or damage. You could also get a tire shop to reseat the bead and re-lube / cement it for better seal, which would also allow them to look at the inside of the tire for damage, where it might be more easily noticed/found.

That said, I highly recommend this bluetooth TPMS as a easy way to stay on top of your tire pressure. It is extremely critical that the tire pressure be correct on a motorcycle, and you really ought to check it before every ride given how important it is. But I personally hate doing that, so this TPMS lets me easily check it from my phone as well as alert me of a slow leak or blow out etc as it can notify your phone. If you install their included t-valves then you can fill from one valve and leave the TPMS on the other, so you don't have to remove them to top the tires off. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q21RNNB/

And this is a great example of why I don't recommend these! Any product on your brake system should be able to withstand the full pressure of the braking system, full stop, otherwise it's a liability. You should not be able to break it by using your full brake pressure with it... You shouldn't have to think about how much pressure you need to use at all. A brake lever lock on the other hand, WILL accept your full brake pressure - because it's external to the hydraulic system. This one holds my front brake at full pressure, plus its a theft deterrent (bullet brake is not), there's no permanent install, no potential for leaks/failure, and it's less than a third the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JRTNG87

I wouldn't say that's the only downside... They're a nice idea, and if you do a lot touring in a very hilly area, I could see that being advantageous; but I am not a fan. I've heard many accounts of them failing to work / jamming / breaking (defeating the point of them), and anything added to your front brake hoses is another potential leak / failure point on arguably the most important thing on your bike - your front brake. Doing anything to your front brake hydraulic system that adds additional hoses or couplings sketches me out as such. This is likely why they are not standard equipment - OEMs have to prioritize safety.

I think for most people, a front brake lever lock that installs over the throttle and brake lever, is the better choice. Not only does this work as a theft deterrent (the bullet brake does not), it doesn't mechanically alter your brake system in any way and there's really no way for it to fail by comparison. It's also much cheaper and no install at all. Like this one I have for my bike: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JRTNG87/

I'm about to make a post today that contains my solution with some pics, but I use this product, there are many like it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JRTNG87/

Bullet Brake is expensive and can fail to work, or lead to brake fluid leaks. Also doesn't work for theft prevention as anyone can disengage it.

A brake rotor lock works for theft, but I've seen guys ruin their bikes forgetting to take it off and trying to drive away. Can't do that with a lever lock like the above.

Using velcro etc to hold the brake lever works, but does nothing for theft prevention.

So I feel like a lever lock like the above checks the most boxes.

Rather than trying to make the bike quieter, I would suggest making your entire ride quieter. If you aren't already, you should be riding with earplugs in - just for saving your hearing from wind noise alone. I highly recommend "high fidelity" earplugs, which block low frequencies, and amplify high frequencies. That way you won't hear nearly as much wind noise, but you will hear your bike's motor, cars around you, your music, your comms/phone calls and so on. They aren't quite as noise deadening, as foam ear plugs etc, but they also don't sound muffled either. You can have a conversation with them in.

My personal choice is Eargasm ear plugs, but Etymotics and EarPeace HD also make solid choices. These are the exact set I ride with, and I love them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SJ3Y8M

A good quiet helmet goes a long way too. I personally prefer modular helmets, and, I am using the Schuberth C5 helmet now, one of the nicest, and quietest helmets on the market. It's hard to imagine that you'd hear fairing vibration / noise with a good set of earplugs, and a quiet helmet with the visor down.

Either way, I'd just ignore it. You're gonna hear a lot more sounds in general without an engine to drown them out.

Any with the right plug type should work. I use both the default one and a generic j1772 lvl 2 I bought on Amazon. (MUSTART Level 2 Portable EV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THBGGMG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) No problems with either, but I only use the lvl 2 when I have to charge faster.

You say the apartment has no charging infrastructure in the parking lot... but are there ANY outlets on the outside of the apartment? Most building codes would require at least a single outlet on each wall of the building.
Or, are there any standard light bulbs on the building? You could get an adapter like this, screw it into the lightbulb socket, get a grounded outlet AND still be able to use the light: https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Adapter-Polarized-Splitter-Converter/dp/B09R1H8FHN
Or just chuck an extension cord out the window.
OR, don't charge at home at all. Get a Zero that has J1772 / Level 2 charging capabilities, and instead charge at higher speeds while you're out, or at work?

Maintenance on these bikes are low in general. Tires + brake pads (if you use regen braking, don't even use your brakes much then...) and a belt every 20k miles. You are going to want to go to the dealer about every 8k miles, for motor commissioning and major services, like a steering bearing repack at 16k. This will also help you hopefully catch any other issues before they become a problem.

Are there lightbulbs? You could screw in an inline light socket adapter that gives you a 120 V outlet right on the light bulb and still keeps the bulb active too, like this grounded one: https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Adapter-Polarized-Splitter-Converter/dp/B09R1H8FHN

Or, toss an extension cord out your window...

Or look around the outside of the building for an outlet. Most building code require at least one external outlet on the building itself.

Hmm, good to know. FWIW, to hopefully prevent this, I cleaned the surfaces entirely with 99% isopropyl alcohol first, and then used a roller like this one, to roll them on with a lot of pressure to make sure the adhesive had no bubbles and really excellent contact. In my experience these two steps will make a huge difference to pressure adhesives on smooth surfaces. Roller I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R2BFBNY

FWIW, I now it's too late now, but maybe if they recover it, or if you have a bike you want to protect, I just installed the MoniMoto 7 GPS tracker, 2022 version on my bike, and I am very impressed with it, both hardware and software. Unlike cheap GPS trackers, the GPS doesn't constnatly update until the bike has actually been stolen, which affords very long batteyr life, and it'sf fully battery powered, so there's no wires to trace or snip, and even if the bike has no power it still works.

It knows the bike was stolen because you put a keytag on your keys it talks to. If you're out of range of the bike, and the bike starts to move or is jostled (adjustable sensitivity so it's basically an Alarm too!) it will immediately CALL YOUR PHONE using it's built in GSM sim card! Then you'll get an app notification, it gets GPS location, and you can choose to enable "real time tracking" if you want, if you need to follow/chase the bike. The unit is very small and well built. The app/software works well and has decent features/settings. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/MoniMoto-Motorcycle-Tracker-Installation-Required/dp/B09Q69N4VT

FYI, for the belt I would recommend purchasing a tool such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUTAGS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

to measure belt tension. The noise recording app is kind of finnicky and was a bit frustrating to use in my experience.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L4NWZNX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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I think it's been solid. occasionally one of the sides kinda loosens but I hand tightened them. I just check the tightness before lifting the bike up. I've had it about 3 weeks now. I got the U+L version so I could use it on my ice bike if necessary, but I do have one for it already.

There are some inverters that can run without battery, but I don't think it would be wise to have the power to your charger cut in and out as you get clouds / shade. You would also need to significantly over panel to produce enough power.

The better solution is to get a relatively small LiFePO4 battery so you can deliver consistent power to the bike, and as D3D_BUG mentioned, setup a disconnect when the battery gets to a low voltage. This is a programmable setting that's available on most inverters.

This inverter will put out 220v and can technically run without a battery, but like I mentioned I wouldn't recommend that approach: https://www.amazon.com/Growatt-Inverter-Controller-Lead-Acid-Lithium/dp/B097153TCG

Gotta get a tripod, my man! You can get one for, like, $20.

Thanks for the update.

The Mojavi in silver would look good, but at $ 270, it makes it is 3x the price of most others on Amazon, so I will have to think about that.

I just googled the Pillion bag... that or any other rear seat / tail bag is an interesting idea. I would be concerned about stability since the tail area of the FXE is soo narrow and not very flat.

I am currently riding with this backpack, and even though I hate backpacks, this one has been acceptable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7FZQHF

I use a pistol cable lock, this wasnt the exact one but its same style.

I don't have a storage tank, but this guy works pretty well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H6X4VLV

In use on my S: https://files.dumbfucks.org/index.php/s/Ban77ZGPPcEeK8S

The helmet just sits on top of the tank when locked in.

I keep track of the two batteries on my FXS by recording how much power they take for a charge. So if at a 50% SOC, they take about 2.8 kWh I know they have a total usable capacity of about 5.6 kWh. I use a meter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P8M7N9F to monitor the total power for the charge.

When I first got my 2017 FXS 6.5 modular one of the BMS wasn't working and I only had a very limited range. And if I remember correctly, the top speed wasn't the full 85 mph either.

RAM Mounts X-Grip Large Phone Mount with Handlebar U-Bolt Base RAM-B-149Z-UN10U with Medium Arm for Motorcycle, ATV/UTV, Bike https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JUWB6SO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_21S6MCRWSQ65Y1KKVD64?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought this for my dsr

RV Parks can be your friend. If you don't have one already, pick up a 32 amp portable level 2 EVSE. There are dozens to choose from. Here's one I picked at random

This will allow you to plug into NEMA 14-50 style plugs commonly used in households for driers, and at RV parks for ... RVs. Fire up PlugShare and turn on the 14-50 filter. It also goes without saying you should have a TeslaTap Mini to make use of Tesla level 2 Destination stations. Also make sure you turn those on in PlugShare's filtering.

Auxbeam H3 Led Bulb Fanless, Z6 Series H3 LED Bulbs with EMC Anti-interference, 300% Brightness 6500K Cool White, Replace for Halogen Bulb (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QJ8XNPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_P9AV5C8ZY7HF3AXG725H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wanted that kit too, but still out of stock… but these bulbs fit in the lights. A little wiring so it’s not “plug and play”, but it was pretty easy.

Fielect 30Pcs 22mm Rubber Grommet Wire Grommets Eyelet Ring Gasket Rubber Grommets for Wiring O Ring Electric Cable Protector, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YXNFLW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HPG603CQ6N8BMN86P1M1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Alright if you open your Zero Manual online (page 6.34). It is probably one of your High Voltage Fuses. Mine was the DC/DC Fuse ABC4A.

Since it is a ceramic Fuse you will need a multimeter to see if it is blown. You can buy a replacement on amazon:

Check this out: Divine Lighting ABC 4A Fast-Blow Ceramic Fuse 4 Amp 250v... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DNM28I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_8R9WS3T67M1TT042APRC

This is a common problem which you might be able to temporarily fix by cleaning and lube, but I've had that make the problem worse, or foul the brake like switch so regen gets stuck on.

Best solution is to replace it with a 7/8" universal master cylinder. Makes the whole bike feel like new and smooth.

You can spend hundreds on a Brembo RCS, or much less...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W4T67D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_5ZVVZ9M03FDGCRM15JMF

I'd say you need a new cable. Those plugs are only rated for a max pin temp of 158F and you're right at that.

With my profession I work with heavy equipment that almost all are powered/recharged by C-13 and C-15 (just a high temp version of a C-13) cables. With dealing with these I've learned that there is one type (not brand) of cable that will always outperform, and that is "hospital grade" C-13. These cables are specifically made with heavier guage wire, stronger sheathing, and what really sets them apart is they're designed to make stronger than usual contact at the plugs by use of heavier duty connectors to prevent accidental disconnection. Obviously in a hospital you don't want medical equipment coming unplugged by accident.

You can find hospital grade cables pretty much anywhere online and sometimes even Home Depot/Lowes carries them. I ordered one off of Amazon, 25ft 14AWG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX72MWX/

Amazon. I got these which were smaller than I expected but they're actually the perfect size for the front of my cases (but I haven't put them on yet). Might also fit on the license plate holder.

A bit late to the question but I just replaced the stock bulb with a set of LED H4 retrofits off Amazon.

Hikari Ultra LED H4 Bulbs (6K cold blue bright light)

I pulled the rubber covers off the back and have run them that way for the last 16 months. They have a little cooling fan that makes a whirring sound which can be annoying to some but I like it because it acts like an "on" indicator for the bike.

Much much brighter light and exactly what I wanted.

Have not done it yet but I have been debating wiring both of the lights low and high beams together to make even more light. Anyhow, that's been my solution.

I know this is old, but thought I would provide an update.

I bought these bulbs off Amazon. They still have the little boxes you have to mount, but they're fairly small. The beam pattern is also very similar between the OEM and LED bulbs.

Here are some pictures of the ribbons sticking out and the before/after of the brightness and beam pattern.

I took the before/after with the same ISO/f-stop settings for comparability's sake.

You can also use my app ZeroSpy https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bsc101.zerospy for scheduled charging. There's a timer and you can setup a charging destination (SOC). Give it a try!

There are a couple of apps I've used in the past.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bitshape.zero_voltage&hl=en_US - this one seems to give voltage consistently, as well as current and temperature

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mc.zero&hl=en_US - this one plots nice graphs, but isn't particularly stable

For scheduled charging, I just use a TP-Link smart plug with energy monitoring, and a python script that runs on a raspberry pi. If you were just looking for, you know, regular schedules, or IFTTT support for controlling charging, I'm pretty sure you can do that with the smart plug on its own.

Android and iOS App to connect with public API for Zero SR/F next gen motorcycle information. This builds upon the data you see when using the "remote connect" functionality in the app.

Android app is available from the Google Play Store, see https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=be.hcpl.android.zeronextgen

iOS app is available from this link https://apps.apple.com/be/app/zerong/id1488172044

I'd love to hear what features you want next.

There's places that will make you a custom cable. Could ask for a Tesla to 110v "kettle plug".

I've used this for ~5 years without issue, if you want to give it a try. Do you know how thick your current cords that melt are? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012EI6KE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1