What are /r/arborists' favorite Products & Services?

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https://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Systemic-Shrub-Insect-Drench/dp/B00ARKS5QO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=14HZVS3IXGSAT&dchild=1&keywords=woolly+adelgid+treatment&qid=1624044755&sprefix=Woolly+adel%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-3

This is what worked.

well, good question... this site indicates average June rainfall in Monteal is about 3.1 inches. This other site indicates that so far in June 2020 (40% of the month in) we've had 14.2mm, or 0.55 inches, which would mean if the trend continues 1.37 inches for the whole of June, which would make it an exceptionally dry June...

If you give it a very deep watering once a week, it will grow to from a 5gal to a 15 foot tree in two years. If going out there to water is too hard, try a watering bag. Get two if you're planting a larger tree.

If you're interested in this subject, I just read a great book by Suzanne Simard recounting her ~40 years in the (Canadian) forestry and forest ecology space with a particular focus on the wider ecological harms of 'free to grow' practices: https://www.amazon.com/Finding-Mother-Tree-Discovering-Wisdom/dp/052565609X

Management of public forests for commercial purposes is often at conflict with ecological goals, and the whole community spans something of an uncomfortable detente with wilderness preservation on one end and profit-focused resource extraction on the other.

This is exacerbated by new challenges with growing wildfire threats and the ever-growing wildland-urban interface due to more and more people living in or along the edges of forests.

They don't offer much in the form of information on that rope do they. I could only offer my opinion here based on my experiences in the past and my experience with the rope I bought and used. I use this one for traversals using my dmm captain: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L85VHC

The rope you linked seems to have a similar construction so I would expect to be able to splice a tight eye into it using the same method, "strip the cover off of the core, put the cover through the core, then core through the cover". Poor, short and simplified description of the technique but that's basically what it is.

From a personal stand point, I wouldn't use the rope you linked as it seems like a cheap chinese knock-off of any random good quality rope. I don't feel it has the strength I would want. I'd want something with a minimum 5000 lbf breaking strength so that I can use the unused hank of rope in other situations. Small rigging jobs, lowering branches weighing under a hundred pounds for example.

Maybe I'm too old school but I was taught a long time ago to use something called "safety factor 5" when considering a rope for use in rigging. Divide the known breaking strength of the rope by 5 to get a "baseline" idea of how much of a weight tolerance you'd not want to go over when using whatever rope. I know you aren't planning to use the rope you linked for rigging anything but just thought I would mention it. 2000 lbf / SF5 = 400 lbs, we can easily overload that with a fall or sudden shock load. Anyways.. lots to consider when choosing a rope for a task. Sorry for the lengthy post!

https://www.amazon.com/Biodegradable-Non-Woven-Planting-Seedling-Supplies/dp/B07WG3S8TP/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?crid=22F0ARKUMV2GI&keywords=grow+bags+sizes&qid=1668202242&sprefix=grow+bags+sizes%2Caps%2C377&sr=8-19

I've had %100 success at deterring deer from rutting my trees this year by using small pie pans. See link below. While not exactly pretty, these have deterred them the past two years. Before, they were doing some serious damage to my trees every rutting season.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N499M8Y/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cut it as low as possible to the ground, drop a little Tordon RTU on it, and forget about it.

Thanks for the help! Iron Chlorosis definitely seems to fit the bill. Trying to find some Chelated Iron now (Canada)... not easy. Found this stuff on Amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/Southern-Chelated-Liquid-Iron-16oz/dp/B00A528VOK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=LLMA4LU3YX14&keywords=chelated+iron&qid=1661771641&sprefix=chelated+iron%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-2) Look OK?

Thanks again!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/558488-Sharpening-Maintenance-Profile-Chainsaw/dp/B00GOGWD90/ref=asc_df_B00GOGWD90/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226592631289&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9902374034797272759&hvpone=&hvptwo=&... Give every new employee one of these kits

I mean Not an app and definitely not free but the Lyon/Sinclair book is like the tree disease Bible. It’s got amazing pictures and it’s cross referenced by species and possible diseases they can get.

diseases of trees and shrubs

uhm Glyphosate (Roundup) dude! it kills when it comes into contact with the leaves. That is why you're not supposed to spray in winds over 15 km/h. If there is high winds, use [this](amazon.ca/Beaverve-Scrubber-Dispenser-Dishwands-Replacement/dp/B07KG8DNG5) on the leaves but you MUST get every leaf.

Interested in this too. Not sure what other resources are out there but this book is helpful for an Australian context on soils

I've used this on several ash trees: https://www.amazon.com/Notch-Set1027D-Launcher-Standard-Yellow/dp/B075VYX31B

Most of mine get eaten at the top by woodpeckers, then squirrels move in and eventually they get topped in a good blow.

Use a pulley and a winch and you can probably pull it off so it falls naturally.

Also the woodlands trust app and this book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Collins-British-Tree-Guide-Pocket/dp/0007451237/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=56023334529&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2uDngf3D9wIVAZ7tCh2WcgiYEAAYASAAEgLtN_D_BwE&hvadid=259099960528&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9041111&hvnetw=g&amp... are a life saver

Glyphosate isn’t as mobile in wetlands as something like triclopyr which made it more desirable for that type of work. Pretty much any of the “ready to use” ones you buy off a shelf will work. They tell you the ingredients on the bottle, so you’re looking for one with an active ingredient of “glyphosate”.

Something like this.

These are amazing. It allows you to stand really far away and pull it down. You don't need to keep adjusting the come along. The rope just keeps pulling through. https://www.amazon.com/AMER-POWER-PULL-18400-securing-Straps/dp/B01M2Z4EVR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2URF6RHUDJPXD&keywords=rope+come+along&qid=1647802653&sprefix=rope+come%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-3

For whatever reasons, the details I provided did not post with the pictures.

The tree is located in North Phoenix (Peoria) and I applied fertilizer in November and have been watering every other day for ten minutes since.

A tree trimmer suggested that it is going to die and I should just chop it down.

Do you guys agree with this assessment or can this tree be saved?

Tatsumi has not indicated when ForestScanner will be released, beyond promising it's "coming soon,"

https://www.amazon.com/Pointer-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Adjustable-Suitable/dp/B09KNFPRZJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=DXOGGGHXWU0X&keywords=green+pointer+long+range+high+power+flashlight&qid=1638856710&sprefix=green+pointer+long%2Caps%2C152&amp...

/u/BelfreyE, /u/Tom_Marvolo_Tomato

Okay, I ran the luster leaf Rapitest kit. Here were the results

PH - ~7

Nitrogen - Depleted

P2 - Adequate

K4 - Surplus

So I'm thinking about getting an acidic mulch layer over the roots and and fertilizing to get nitrogen levels back up.

What would you recommend for fertilizing. Was thinking of fertilizing with something like these slow release spikes although some reviews said these killed their plant which makes me nervous

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJ1ZQQ/ref=emc_b_5_t

The root flare actually looks pretty good from what I can see, although I think the tree would be happier if it had mulch over the root zone, rather than the thick turf.

I would suggest a Luster Leaf Rapitest Kit as a cheap DIY option that has been found to be pretty reliable when compared to professional lab soil tests (which are always going to be better, of course). Soils in your area tend to be higher pH (too alkaline) than what southern magnolia thrives under. Using an acidic mulch layer (such as pine bark) may help somewhat. Reclaimed irrigation water can also cause problems by further elevating pH and adding some salts - the resulting symptoms usually get worse during spells of dry weather, when basically all of the tree's water is coming from the irrigation.

Given that you're in LA, I suspect that the bleeding lesions on that branch may be from attacks of the invasive shot hole borers (Euwallacea spp.), tiny beetles that bore into the wood. If you Google that issue, you're going to find a lot of scary stuff, but don't panic - low levels of infestation are often not fatal to magnolias. These beetles are more likely to attack stressed trees. I would suggest spraying the bark with a permethrin product to prevent further infestation while you're nursing the tree to health.

https://www.amazon.com/OREGON-26368A-Logger-Filing-Chain/dp/B000PS9O68/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=stump+filing+vise&qid=1632101354&sr=8-2

This one? I've had someone recommend that to me before, guess it's time I get it. Not too expensive, either. The size I know I have right for my file. I'm working on evening my stroke and experimenting with different amounts of pressure applied.

Thanks for your input!

One that covers those concepts more in depth is the Tree Climbers Guide, 4th Ed

I’m studying it now as it’s the ISA’s study guide for the Certified Tree Worker exam, lots of good info related to specifically what you’re asking about!

https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Phosphorous/dp/B0000DI845/ref=zg_bs_3480689011_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R514SG00X7FQKTV0VFJ4

That could get you some numbers to work but I haven't used this type of product before. There are also pH meters that you can insert into the soil and it should give a digital read out. In any case, a $10 test kit or pH meter will be cheaper than sending a sample to a lab...

Perhaps someone on r/arborists might be able to speak to the reliability of these at home kits?

Hope that helps!

Appreciate the clarification. Huge fan of grafting and I am excited to see this process.

I use the American Horticultural Society Plant Propogation for most things I have been trying, though I need to get ahold of some good rootstock for a graft I want to try with our 35yr old clementine orange.

Thank you again for the insight.

You can buy a test kit online or get it tested somewhere locally. If your ph is high this is pretty easy to treat with liquid iron but it’s something you would need to treat for the life of the tree.

Garden Tutor Soil pH Test Strips Kit (3.5-9 Range) 100 Tests https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YZT5ZPJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-FnCFbNFZ9S18