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You would want one of these. Keep in mind this takes advantage of your power brick's capability to work on 110 to 240v, as you'll see if you look close at it. These should never be used on anything with an AC motor like a blender or plug-in shaver, nor on anything with a heater unless it explicitly states 220v is OK.
Get a universal adapter like this and set it to 9v and use the plug that will fit https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Regulated-Switching-Replacement-Electronics/dp/B015PXUHYA/ref=sxin_12_ac_m_pm?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTAgYW5kICQxNQ%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=ac+adapter+9v&dchild=1&keywords=ac+adapter+9v&pd_rd_i=B015PXUHYA&...
Or, if you have an older motherboard that only has USB 2.0 headers, you can use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU
-Reduces amount of cable on the ground. Easy stow for portability.
-Reduces tripping more than reel. A little harder to stow.
Short answer: Surface Pro Bluetooth keyboard from Moko
Long answer: I use my Surface Pro with 2 external monitors. It feels wierd typing on the surface keyboard whilst looking across at a different monitor... So I bought a detachable Bluetooth surface keyboard from Moko:
It's basically the only choice for a detachable Bluetooth surface keyboard with key backlighting.
Unfortunately a fault of this keyboard is: the micro USB port is prone to being pushed into the case, hence I need the extra long connector!
Okay so the data connection is easy. The plug on the left is a USB-B socket. These cables are commonly used on older small peripherals like external hard drives and are still used on larger peripherals today like printers and scanners.
Here is an example of one for sale but any USB-B cable should do the job.
The power connection is trickier. In theory any 12 volt, 2 amp DC power supply with a barrel plug that physically fits in the hole should work but it can be hard to find the right one, especially when buying online and can't try it before buying. Something like a universal power supply with a variable output might work best but even then they might not work at all. Importantly do not use a power supply rated higher than the hard drive was designed for or you could damage it.
It is also worth noting that hard drives degrade over time. They are susceptible to heat, sharp knocks and magnetic interference and even without all that they just wear out and degrade over time.
You have to question whether it is worth it to find replacement parts for a older hard drive compared to the reliability of a newer one. It all comes down to how critical the data is for you that you plan on saving on the drive.
This is complete overkill (the specific link) Look for items that are under amazon search term "Cable Raceways" Some of them are simple channels with a foam-tape type thing to stick to the walls. Similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-C210-Wiremold-Cord-Mate/dp/B00004W3ZQ/ref=zg_bs_6577543011_6
Is this your blog? Eitherway I have been reading it for 2 hours give or take.
I am reading on your "Managing Inventory" entry. You seem to be a fan of spreadsheets. Which is fine. I'm just a visual type of person. I would like to suggest some software I ran into. I am finding it to be invaluable as I progress in it's trial run.
This looks like a PS/2 cable to me. This used to be a very common cable for mice and keyboards.
Depending on the other end, you might be looking for a male to male or a male to female, but they're all on Amazon: * male to male: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15ft-MDIN-6-Male-Cable/dp/B001WC0OMO * male to female: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Keyboard-Mouse-Extension-Cable/dp/B000067SLU/
Yes. But I’d recommend getting a usb 3 to esata adapter. It will be much faster than that usb2 port.
You need a HDMI to VGA converter and what ever cables and adapters you may need to connect everything.
Cable Matters HDMI to VGA Adapter (HDMI to VGA Converter) in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-xAkFbYPSZF6B
flat cat 5/6 cable and maybe plane a bit off the bottom of the door if you have to. it might even fit along the jam (where the original cable is now) if you have a loose enough fit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD0179S
could also hold the cable down with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M3YGOQ/
pull the tab when removing and they leave no residue and don't rip the drywall or damage flooring
I don't know if it's possible to find an original but something like this is nice. I have a couple similar styles. I can't vouch for this particular brand/seller but the design works fine for me. haven't had any problems. A dedicated "9v DC center positive" (if you want to search for one) might be cheaper though.
would you post a picture of the speaker? My guess is that speaker has some inputs and perhaps a power/volume control on it?
Two of those pins probably drive the speaker. If you have a multimeter, you could open the speaker and try to figure out which of those pins do what.
you could also get This 9 pin Mini Din Extension cable and use it to break out from that connector.
You need an adapter like this. You should be able to find one in a store if they sell travel accessories and/or electrical adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Adapter-Europe-Charger-Converter/dp/B084GBXJFT/
Here I think I found you something, probably better than what I would make. it's made for a car but I'm sure you could adapt the mount to make it work.
I was definitely thinking about a full latching retractable reel assembly as I don't want costant tension on ehe cable while it's in use.
If I understand your DIY idea correctly, it would mean constant tension. This would probably mean that a light phone is pulled off the table or the cable might be plugged out of a device by the badge reel. And it would definitely be annoying if you want to use a device while charging.
The closest thing I've foubd so far is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KC8CTP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=2SMPP8A4MTUX0&keywords=ohlpro+car+3+in+1+charger&qid=1671266363&sprefix=ohlpro+car+3+in+1+charger+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-1
It's for cars so one would need to come up with their own idea for affixiing it but that seems doable. All the led lights would probably be annoying in a bed room, though. The perfext solution woukd be this but without any leds and holes for screws, I think.
So, right now I'm connecting with an indoor TV aerial. Something like, for example
but it's unreliable and I'm pretty much using iPlayer to watch BBC and so on. Is there a way to hook up the wired cable to my TV with an adapter or do I need a better aerial?
that's not the female connector that is the Male connector side of the breakaway cable for an Xbox 360. If your using this controller for PC you are honestly better off buying an Xbox One X controller which is fully backwards compatible and works with a USB-C cable or if you have a Wireless powered Motherboard you can directly connect the controller to the PC using Wifi.
​
Depending on the length I think something like USB over Ethernet may make more sense:
I've only ever used USB over UTP, but as long as it's powered, you should be fine.
Here's an alternative that you might be able to repurpose in the future, with better reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHR14LJ/
I just tried to measure that thing on the screen and I believe it's 2mm wide. So my guess is you'll need a cable like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingfisher-Technology-Charger-Adaptor-2mmx0-6mm-Black/dp/B01GBNOLAY/
Looks like this DIRECTV 10PIN Composite A/V Cable for C31 C41 Client. Looks kind of like a modified svideo cable.
If this is from a power recliner, the other end will be going into a power transformer. This plug will be for power. You will need a power adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXG9TQ6?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Would you know if any generic cable like that would work, or does it have to be specific? I found This one.
Any 14V power supply that provides over 300mA should be fine.
The actual connection I've always called a cannon jack. I'm not sure what it's proper name is, but it's a very generic DC power connector. There are a few sizes, but pretty much impossible to tell from a picture.
The midi connection plug type is just called a DIN. They usually name it with the number of pins DIN-5 or another number. "Midi DIN-5 connector" probably.
Din plugs used to be used for lots of things that aren't necessarily compatible. see here.
The sustain is for a peddle, you can use it as an accessory of the keyboard for holding a note longer I believe. example
I think you already know the power and headphone.
- Midi plug is called a DIN-5
- Sustain peddle is called a PHONO jack or 1/4th headphone jack. It's like a double-size version of a 3.5mm headphone plug.
Decades ago (like the 1970s and back) all audio equipment had them. Modern music stuff (your keyboard) still use it as an ez accessory outlet. Stage equipment also continues to use phono.
It's the following one: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B08HGYFL2Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I might be wrong but it looks like a brandless China product so I didn't really know how to look for the proper cable for that model.
Looks like a DB9 to 3.5mm converter, like this. It may be used for audio system control or sending audio from a digital source to analog speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/LIANSHU-DC3-5mm-Serial-RS232-Cable/dp/B07G2ZL3SL/
Searching USB to Siemens CF62 got me to several sites that has it. the above Amazon site is just one.
(Terminology nitpick: you have 2 speaker cables and 4 speaker wires. A wire is a piece of metal; a cable is a bundle of wires.)
I'd suggest installing an RCA connector insert for the subwoofer, and a common “ethernet” modular jack insert (8P8C) for the speakers. That gets you 8 pins, twice as many as you need, which you can then double up to improve the conductivity (probably would be fine without, but we might as well).
Of course, this means you're going to need an adapter to go to your speakers, since modular plugs aren't designed to have custom wiring inside the plug. Something like this (not a recommendation; just search for "rj45 breakout" and find lots of options) will do the trick (or you can get ones with a socket to run a cable to, if you need to avoid a bulky object sticking out of the floor box).
On the inside of the floor box, you can make splices from speaker cable to 2 smaller wires suitable for a punchdown ethernet jack, or run regular Cat5 cable to the other end.
I'd also stick a label on the plate to clarify it's not an ethernet socket.
(Don't worry too much about using thin wires — the shorter the length, the less it matters.)
Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Silicone-Charger-Charging-MacBook/dp/B09H5J2W4B/
Braided cables are going to be stiffer, so something unjacked is more likely to be what you want. "Silicone" might be the keyword to search for.
No actually this is the first lightning charging system for Samsung Galaxy devices as well. Yes is is also a hogh speed USB 3.0 cable. We're all right lmao. This was the standard cord and style for the Galaxy S5.
That's a Samsung One Connect cable, that would go between a television and a breakout box with all the inputs.
I can't say for certain, but it looks like the aux inputs are the LR between record level and the 8-track playback. These would take a 1/4" cable for L and R. So, I think you need a 1/8" TRS to dual TS breakout cable.
The only reason I think they're aux in is because the source selector seems to be in the same order layout as the other playback sources. The label there is gone, much like the rest of them. These may not be the input - which would likely be in the wall or cabinet underneath. I don't see where the phono preamp is, so there's probably an RCA back there, but if it's labeled phono, it has a filter for turntables that will sound like garbage on your phone. Good luck!
You'll need 3.5mm headphone to 2x 1/4" mono
Based on this picture I found, the port looks like a "Mini 4-pin USB"
This might work https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Black-Type-Mini-B-Cable/dp/B000I97IWG
>heap one way retractable reels,
I think its like a wire spool
so. end being connecting to desk would be going through the axis. then wrapping around a spool like thread. when you pull the end of the cable, the drum rotates around the axle. then it is spring loaded to return back to its original position (retraction)
It looks like a Firewire 1394 connector. If it is firewire, then you'll need a device that has firewire (usually an Apple) or a converter to USB. Here are some cables, you'll need to verify the connector type of the other end of the cable as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Bizlander-Firewire-Premium-800-400-MacBook/dp/B01KPZTZNM/
https://www.amazon.com/BIZLANDER-Premium-Firewire-Camcorder-IEEE1394/dp/B07814BCF1/
Pretty sure it'd be a unique one that is either tailored to a specific brand.
Something like that maybe?
Maybe? 6V Charger for Disney Pacific Cycle Kids Ride On Car, Compatible with Disney Quad Pacific Cycle Marvel Avenger Good Dinosaur Princess Fairies Minnie Mouse Frozen CAR McQueen Kids Toy Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HYGXMHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8KZ6ZPGWDFTQY5QYX656?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank for the quick reply. Just for info, will it work or I need some kind of adapter?
Total guess but probably 12 volt , and at least 3 amp to be safe. For example this long string of LEDs is 12V 40 Watt, which is about 3.3 amps.
Then you have the cable top size to figure out.
You could get one of these adjustable supplies and probably find something that works.
But as everyone else has mentioned, check the back for details. You might even need to look up a part number for a LED controller or something like that. Good luck.
This looks compatable, and is cheap enough to roll the dice on.
Hi, This is a Cellink Neo battery hardwire splice cable connector. One of the wires frayed and I am trying to fix it. I can't seem to push the pin out, so I was wondering where I could get more of the connections and just re-splice it, but i don't know what the connector is called.
Or does anyone have advice for fixing this without buying another connector? You can see the black wire is disconnected, but all three are frayed.
Those look like standard 2 pin connectors (similar to these: (https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Extension-Density-Transparent-Gapless/dp/B08S338M8Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_49?keywords=2+pin+connectors&qid=1650546679&sr=8-49)
But in my humble opinion, if you only need one then perhaps it will be easier to just splice the wires together (appropriately), all you need is a good pair of scissors and electrical tape or duct tape
I'm not sure what other connectors you'd need, aside from USB-C, micro-B, and Lightning. The only way you're going to get more universal is to do what I did; get yourself a bench power supply and make a cable that has banana plugs on one end (for the PSU) and a 5.5x2.1mm barrel jack on the other. Then, get one of those kits that has a bunch of adapter tips that fit on the 5.5x2.1mm end.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G4CYHJ2/ Like these.
By the way, the page you linked works for a moment, then redirects to a 404 for some reason.
Yeah I'm not sure what other adapters you're looking for usb-c, a, micro, and lightning would seem to cover everything. This looks to cover those options https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZBZ5MSX. I've also heard good thing about the InCharge 6 but it's really meant for keychains.
I went the other way and got a multiport charger with a variety of short cables that stay plugged in all the time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083ZJZ8WS
Not sure about what you specifically asked about, but what about approaching it from a different angle.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/
Something like this would allow you to have one charging cable to the phone, and play over Bluetooth. Everything can be left in place and just plug in the car charger.
Ok i see, so can vga draw power for the converter? Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Giveet-VGA-HDMI-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07MV43SFG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2FVGR2ZKM89SO&keywords=vga+to+hdmi+converter&qid=1647242560&sprefix=vga+to+hdmi+converter%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-3
Are Panduits and Epson labelers the same? I was eyeing up the Epson units, but for my casual self, no one makes off brand tape for the Epson PX series. Also, I wanted the PX700 band it was out of stock everywhere.
I do know from others that the cartridges between panduit and Epson look identical but are not compatible.
Epson LABELWORKS LW-PX900 Industrial Label Maker - Portable Handheld Label Printer Compatible with All Epson LABELWORKS PX Tape Types (Lite Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQPY45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_A9NQN3T7JC6ZVXSEA4RF
Not sure how reputable the brand is over all, but I've used their HDMI-DVI dongle without issues for about 6 months now:
https://www.amazon.fr/UGREEN-Adaptateur-Convertisseur-Ordinateur-Ultrabook/dp/B00NBUTHJG/
So, just want to be sure, you've got a computer/laptop with HDMI out, and a VGA monitor?
Can't go wrong with StarTech. https://www.startech.com/fr-fr/audio-video-products/hd2vgae2
https://www.amazon.fr/StarTech-com-Adaptateur-Convertisseur-ordinateur-Ultrabook/dp/B00BUKO6CW/
You didn't give too much information about the head unit or car model, but what you have there is an: "AUX Cable For Nissan 284H2-ZT50A 30 pin connector". Usually these are proprietary connectors that only work as an apple interface. You might be able to find a different cable for your car that connects somewhere else if you search with your car model. Or if you only want to add Bluetooth to your car you can use a 30 pin apple connector Bluetooth. See Amazon link below 👇: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GHUHMUS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_9CX51VP0795PMTSHAXG8
This is correct. See this amazon listing
Everyone saying Australian plug is missing that this is a 2 pin connector with a flat and round pin. In the pictures the round pin kind of looks like a flat pin viewed from the side.
I'd spring for some 90degree banana plugs. Example below.
https://www.amazon.com/Right-Speaker-Degree-Connector-Banana/dp/B08T9CKJJP/
Though using the hole will work just fine, watch the polarity, or the sound will be bad, but not obvious as to why.
It shouldn't carry remotely enough power to be a fire hazard. but don't cross the cables, as it may damage the electronics.
Not exactly sure what your trying to connect and to what, but it looks to me like you could use a BNC Barrel Connector.
Next time you can simply Google the brand & model number on the sticker, add the phrase power cord and you'll nearly always get exactly what you need.
Oh so I'm supposed to know this how exactly? You gave no info at all in your OP and said you had no idea how to even solve the issue of it being short, that was it.
Anyway, not that hard to find.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=thunderbolt+extension+cable+40gbps
Literally top result in that search;
Fair enough, then as a couple of others have said you need an active converter of some description, not just a cable. Search for ADC )analogue digital converter), something like this for example.
This is what you’d need to do that. Analog to Digital Audio Converter, Hdiwousp RCA R/L or 3.5mm Jack AUX to Digital Coaxial Toslink Optical SPDIF Audio Adapter for PS4 Xbox HDTV DVD Headphone (Aluminum) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B089CTL78B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TMP1NJVW428AC8FFNRKN
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Micro-Compatible-Android-Tablet/dp/B01M5GZ3N0
Just search for "USB micro OTG to micro"
The micro B 3.0 port on your hard drive (if that's what it is) accepts the normal 2.0 micro B as well.
This is the amazon link to the product : https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Handheld-ZesGood-Powerful-Rechargeable/dp/B07VLR2424&ved=2ahUKEwiD8f_nt930AhXnYN8KHez0CjYQFnoECBEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw14E1VZPL6tYSMbofEadxpB ...
Not exactly sure what the make/model the vacuum cleaner is.
AV Adapter, Video AV Component Adapter Cable Replacement for TCL TV, 3 RCA to AV Input Adapter - 23CM/9in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NV48MHP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZNHZS5G11D2KPBSMMN5F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like a 3.5mm to rca splitter.
Onvian 3.5mm to 3 RCA Male Plug to RCA Stereo Audio Video Male AUX Cable 5FT Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKMBB9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_97EJ0F39MCCDRE43ZA12
Its a a round 4 pin connector (as you can see) with a little notch in the side to ensure you put it in the right way. The other end of the cable is two pin, so I'm not sure what's happening there.
I'm just looking to replace the cable with something a little more insulated and better sleeved, and if I could buy one cheap from DX to save myself some soldering, I'd be pretty happy.
Sorry if this is the wrong subreddit, had a google. Seemed the closest!
Looks like it, fourth image down on left: https://www.amazon.com/ANNNWZZD-60HzFor-Raspberry-Camera-Lenovo/dp/B0892W25H3/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?keywords=micro+HDMI&qid=1638215688&s=aht&sr=1-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTTU0Q1ROWE9QSVI1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwND...
https://www.ugreen.com/products/micro-hdmi-male-to-hdmi-female-cable
It's just a fused quick connect. Used for any 12v application in which you'd need to unplug whatever is being powered.
I use them on my tractor, boat, camper, etc.
I might be wrong, and I might be misunderstanding 6ou, but Male and Female refers to the mechanical component of the connection.
The issue you are encountering is related to the electronic component. You need to adapt SMA and RP-SMA.
I think this adapter might solve your problem: DHT Electronics 2PCS RF coaxial Coax Adapter SMA Female to RP-SMA Male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CVQ3XLY/
I have a hard drive with those same connectors, I can confirm with u/GVJoe that it's a USB type-B mini connector.
As for power, it's a 5.5x2.1mm barrel jack (5.5mm outer diameter, 2.1mm pin) that delivers 12V 1.5A, and is center-positive. You can go higher than 1.5A the amperage, just don't go lower. 12 volt must match.
The vast majority of external hard drives made recently use this arrangement, so if you have any other laying around it should work. Just make sure it's center positive, but most should be.
If you need to order one, this would probably work, although I can't vouch for the quality.
https://www.amazon.com/Coming-Data-5-5x2-1mm-Connector-Certified/dp/B0194B7VQG
If you're just needing to pull data off of it, that should do the trick
uxcell GX16 8 Pin Male/Female Head Aviation Socket Connector Electrical Cable 2m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYAIP1H/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_60EV0MP9ZF0VNY5GNQD7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the closest I've found but only 4 available and I dont need aviation quality, if it is correct.
As others mention, you can use HDBaseT over Cat6, but typically that doesn’t support HDR10/Dolby Vision (or at least I haven’t seen it). If that is important to you, StarTec 100ft Certified Active Fiber Optic
Found a very relevant article. Figured I'd share for anyone else who was curious. https://lifehacker.com/5803639/creatively-wall-mount-your-home-theater-gear-cables-and-all-for-better-access-and-organization
I see you are using raspberry pi boards. You might want to take a look at this setup:
http://hackaday.com/2013/05/21/33-node-beowulf-cluster-built-with-raspberry-pi/
If it isn't rack mountable, you can always make it rack mountable.
https://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Antenna-Converter-Motorola-Terminal/dp/B07QNL9QQ8
(I literally just did a google search for "Prius Antenna Adapter"....)
As for what the connectors are, I believe the one attached to your car is a "Fakra" connector, or similar. The radio is called a "motorola"-style connector.
> like .78mm, compared to 2.25mm
glad you found your answer. I was going to suggest this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/
but IDK how thick it is.
people say these type of strips suck but IMHO a good quality brand like these stick really well. Funnily enough maybe even too well sometimes.
Wand Massager Power Cord for Shibari Mini Halo, Lyork Mini, Yarosi, Lulu, Lovense Lush Vibrator USB Charging Cable - Mono 2.0 2.5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC4ZXXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AY21FH6RT1APT3K8JB4T
Just google that next time 😜
something like this might work just add the proper bolts. maybe cap head hex bolts would fit. IDK the specifics (dimensions/limitations/etc) of your situation
This is an IEC-320-C15 connector. The key in the port is intended to force you to use a cable of thicker quality construction, to ensure it will safely carry the current needed to run the device without melting the cord.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0091F8GP6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2KYX0NGEKGKMHG3B8K27
What is the appliance? Can you find and show the power rating sticker, please?
Nah, you'll just use one of these.
Ah yes, the good ol' RIAA curve.
Let me guess, it's really quiet and thin sounding.
Search for a turntable or RIAA preamp, like this one if you want to go super cheap.
I can only find one that goes the other way, sorry. Maybe you'll need to get a new cable.
Another option is to split the audio first and then you can use a regular USB-* to Lightning cable, but there's no guarantee you're going to get anything better than 5v charging.
Looks a lot like an old camcorder cable though perhaps with mono sound if those are truly the only RCA connectors? Example
Yeah, I'd go for a hub: https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B08HYZXDGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_R57EYJFGDQDN906MCF34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just remember that the max power you'll get is what you can draw out of the original port so your devices may not charge as fast.
It's definitely not the budget option but has anyone considered using something like this? we finally got rid of all of our projectors so I haven't had the need for this use case but we picked these up for temp scanners and I'm hooked. I've run a small sound system off them and if I need to plug in something for a job, these are usually more convenient than an extension cord.
Normally for events we use 3" Gaff Tapp to tape down the cords. Not a great option for constant moving around.
We do use velcro covers in some situations. Could be a good solution here.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Protect-Protector-Management-10Length/dp/B0822DDMQY
What sort of connector do your ATs have? I assume just a female 3.5mm TRS plug? I'm concerned that they're breaking within a day in general, but cheap things are cheap. I don't have this specific cable, but I have three others which use nearly identical cables and connectors, and all have held up just fine:
https://www.amazon.com/KetDirect-Replacement-Headphone-Headset-Microphone/dp/B01DYG5KBA/
You can probably find the same exact cable around eBay for cheaper, if you don't mind slow shipping from China.
(I have one with the 2.5mm twist lock connector for Sennheiser, another with the same but it has a boom mic instead, and one more that has a female 3.5mm connector on top.)
Hi all, thank you for looking at my question! So I broke a certain cable used to connect a LCD Controller Board to a LCD panel and can't seem to find just the cable name/type for sale.
The cable in question is the one at the bottom of the image with a flat connector on the left (which I don't know the name of). That part connects to the ribbon connector on the LCD panel. The other side is a 20pin connector + a 6 pin connector (power).
Thank you so much for helping out!
It will work up to the max resolution/refresh rate that DVI bandwidth supports, which I think is going to be 1080 @ 60.
Also, keep in mind DVI does not support audio. If you want sound you need to break it out, or use a different output from the computer.
I'm so glad that there are fewer proprietary connectors today.
I appreciate you looking around!
By Sunday, I should receive this set of adapters, which includes the one u/pbjellous mentioned. It's obviously not one of the others in the set, but it was a better deal to just get the set and have some random extras.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Universal-Adapter-Adapters-Included/dp/B000P6R4BM
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if there were 2 connectors sharing the same wires, the signals wont work (can't drive 2 cars down a one lane road), if it was 2 seperate cables, then it's basically the same thickness as a cable sleeve which i linked above.
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or the cheaper option.... tape
Apparently this thing works: https://www.amazon.com/Dreamvasion-Headphone-Charging-Converter-Compatible/dp/B07M64531Z
Be aware that any USB audio adapters you'll be using with the S20 must be active. That is, they can't be a passive adapter like Motorola and Sony phones use. It has to have basically a USB audio chip in the adapter.