What are /r/computerrepair's favorite Products & Services?

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This will atleast equip you to start over. If you're trying to get your data back and this repair method doesn't work, you're going to need to use another computer or boot something else from usb. hirens is my favorite but anything windows based would work because bitlocker.

You'll need something like this : https://www.amazon.in/Buyyart-22Pin-Female-Convertor-Adapter/dp/B09M89F5V9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sas+to+sata+converter&qid=1666612184&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjUyIiwicXNhIjoiMy45NiIsInFzcCI6IjIuMDUifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=sas+to+%2Caps%2C364&sr=8-3

Very inexpensive if ordered off Amazon or similar sites.

Why are you going through all this hassle to recover the data >? Just remove the hard drives and get a USB to SATA adapter and recover the data onto another computer.

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https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=asc\_df\_B00LS5NFQ2/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=325110117317&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=493630197126670687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...

I can't give you a quantitative answer on that, but from my experience I'm quite comfortable saying no, there is no noticeable difference. Maybe if you're talking like absolutely cheap, $1 antennas that might not even contain a metal antenna versus a $10 antenna, sure. Garbage price probably = garbage performance.

But WiFi 6 + Bluetooth is still just 2.4GHz and 5GHz, and antenna length only really matters for wavelength reception and doesn't correlate directly to performance. So MOAR antenna =/= moar signal strength.

If it was me, I'd just get a $10 antenna and call it a day. Since your board apparently has the exterior threaded RP-SMA male connector, you'll need these for most of the antennas in that previous link I sent you: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z347HGF/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2X7IHOFTAZ9BA&psc=1

(If you want to play it super safe, you can buy the actual part from the motherboard manufacturer and know 100% it'll be compatible and work.)

So end of the day you may need to spend $16 or $18 instead of $10. If you choose to spend more I hope you get what you need and enjoy it. Just remember, Best Buy sells $100 HDMI cables, which is a cable with a regulated standard for digital connections that $10 cables are able to meet just fine. Just because it costs more, doesn't mean it's better.

I wouldn't bother, do a nice fresh install on the ssd and have the hdd in as the data drive.

then have my docs etc reference the hdd to populate their contents.

you could buy one of those hdd duplicators, they are very handy for lots of reasons. I have this one and it can duplicate a hard drive if you want to; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wavlink-External-Docking-Station-Functions/dp/B01H7D5W4G/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=1BG5P86N6EXZA&keywords=wavlink+hard+disk+docking+station&qid=1652711677&sprefix=wavlink+hard+disk+docking+station%2Caps%2C52&sr=8-6

Yep. Indeed it does.

Luckily, you pretty much have it apart, so you can get the actual part number off the back of the screen. From there, you can likely find a replacement on Amazon relatively cheaply... if not eBay. Using the part number won't limit you to the searches that ONLY have laptop models... since Asus likely used the same LCD panel in a few different models. And... there may be other manufacturers who also used the same LCD panel. May. I mean... this is the 17.3 inch Strix, right?

Do your due diligence, and find the most inexpensive replacement from a source you can "trust"... like, buy a panel that costs slightly more, if it is sold under the Amazon Prime umbrella, as opposed to one on Amazon that wasn't attached to their Prime program. I did pull up a replacement panel on Amazon (for $148) and on eBay (for $348), using the model. You should get more, and likely better priced results with the part number.

You likely want an external NVMe enclosure.

Like this Sabrent USB 3.2 Type-C Tool-Free Enclosure for M.2 PCIe NVMe and SATA SSDs (EC-SNVE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RVC6F9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_VA3D69V4EEQX77YFT6Q0

Buy yourself some locking tweezers like these https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Tweezers-Locking-Jewelry-TIP-German/dp/B01NAX4JIU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=19ABATXQZH6H4&keywords=locking+tweezers&qid=1644785463&sprefix=locking+tweezers%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-4

If there is some left over solder where the capacitor came from then you may be able to clamp the capacitor in place and then reheat the solder a little bit at a time on each side to get it to reattach. Otherwise you may need to pre-apply some solder to the circuit board. I won't go into all the techniques for soldering, but you can find a lot of tutorials on youtube that are pretty good.

That capacitor might be polarity sensitive. Make sure you reinstall it in the same orientation as it was before (if there is some sort of markings on it that are distinguishable).

ifixit branded is basically the best you can buy (buy from here). The only thing is it costs 72 USD which is quite expensive.

Then there is this slightly less expensive option on amazon for 56 USD. (obivously the ifixit one will be higher quality, but its more expensive)

I assume you live in the US so i have given you US amazon link and all prices in USD. If you live elsewhere, tell me, then ill send you the amazon link according to that country. Ifixit ships worldwide so there is no problem in that.

It's risky and might fry components, so I do not recommend. What I do recommend is this

Ofc don't buy it from there, but purchase something similar. I might be totally off from what you're looking for tho, so sorry if I said something stupid.

https://www.amazon.com/Sungwoo-Foldable-Silicone-Keyboard-Waterproof/dp/B06XHBQ4MB/

... if you didn't start looking already. That's just an example.

The original adapter is from MSI. I bought the replacement through Amazon. (new battery: link). Both the model names on replacement and original matches.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FHA7VDM51THAH4W6509Q That works wonders. Fantastic for hinge repairs on hp x360 laptops. Will bond it with ease. Wear gloves when mixing.

This should do it: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM

But first, there's an extra piece you have to pull off that HDD. I think you have some kind of Data adapter still attached. Once it's off, you'll see the standard sata L-connectors.

UGREEN SATA to USB Cable USB 3.0 to Hard Drive Adapter Converter for 2.5 3.5 Inch Hard Drive Disk HDD SATA III and SSD Support UASP with 12V 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1GM2DbMZ5J5W4 This the one I currently use for data extraction. It works amazing. Best $18 I've spent. A specialist is going to be very expensive especially for data recovery. Either way whichever route you choose. Best of luck.