What are
/r/datarecovery's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/datarecovery:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/datarecovery:
DMDE
PhotoRec
TestDisk
CNET Download.com
Stellar Phoenix Windows Data Recovery
UFS Explorer Standard Recovery
Win32 Disk Imager
Linux Mint
Gofile.io
Zero Assumption Recovery
R-Studio
Hiren’s BootCD PE
Clonezilla
Everything
Team Win Recovery Project (TWRP)
The most popular reviews in /r/datarecovery:
Can you start by retrieving the SMART report with a tool such as CrystalDiskInfo?
https://crystalmark.info/en/software/crystaldiskinfo/
Can you show us the Partitions window in DMDE?
I'm wondering whether the firmware was originally configured for a sector size of 4KB and has been changed to 512 bytes after the update.
If so, then DMDE should see all your data. It costs US$20. Can you show us DMDE's Partitions window?
WD has a "quick formatter" tool which can change the sector size of your enclosure. I've never used it, so I don't know if that's all it does. I would recover your data before trying it.
https://dmde.com/ will do what you want. It succeeded for me where PhotoRec failed.
The only limitation on the trial version is that it won't recursively recover a directory tree - but with your file sizes, I assume that you'll be able to get to their directory no problem. Good luck!
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5CGEK6C03T2FNWSE9CFA
I think that 99.90% would normally be a good recovery. You would have to be very unlucky if there were bad sectors in the file system metadata.
PhotoRec is a file carver that makes no attempt to recover original file names. It's a tool of last resort.
You could use ddrutility to analyse ddrescue's log. This will identify those files which are affected by bad sectors.
HDDSuperClone is another tool that can clone your drive. It can make use of ddrescue's log so that you don't need to run it from scratch. That said, I doubt that it would do any better than ddrescue at this late stage.
You could examine the clone with DMDE:
DMDE can do this. The free version should be enough.
Launch DMDE, select Physical Disk, check "Show partitions" and then OK.
D-click the desired volume.
At the top of the left pane, click "All Found / Virtual FS".
Select "Pure FS reconstruction", tick the "include deleted" box, and then OK.
Under the $Root you will see folder icons with dots in the centre. These folders contain deleted files or deleted folders.
A deleted file will have a trashcan symbol at the bottom left corner of its icon.
WARNING: Do not install DMDE on the drive that has your deleted data.
If you only used clean (and not “clean all”) and did not attempt to create new partitioning, it may be possible to undo this. Is it a SSD or HDD? If it’s a HDD, can you post the Partitions window from DMDE?
Try IsoBuster (http://www.isobuster.com/) to see if it can squeeze some data out of the disk. Also, you might find better results using an older DVD drive verses using a newer one. The old ones were actually better at reading.
DMDE runs on a Mac. The free version can recover up to 4000 files, of any size, from any one folder.
If you can find a Windows machine ...
A SMART report won't stress your drive. It just reads one or two sectors from the reserved area on the platters.
Can you show us the Partitions window in DMDE? This should only take a few seconds. Don't initiate a full scan.
First recommendation would be to clone the drive. If physically okay, then you could attempt this using proper file recovery software.
Scan with something else than Minitool. For example R-Studio (r-tt.com) or DMDE (dmde.com) could be used to both create a drive image and the scan for lost data.
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>I have found a couple of folders which i recognise as my documents say they contain jpeg but when i try open them it says system files not supported
This is typical for subpar file recovery software: They can locate folders/files, but if they do not correctly solve start of file system / cluster size problem, it's useless.
A RAID 1 is a mirror, in which case the two drives would have been identical. It now appears that you may have had a RAID 0.
The drive that was identified as RAW was probably the first member of a RAID 0.
Can you show us the Partitions window in DMDE?
The Windows installer typically overwrites the first 3 - 4GB of the drive. The remainder should be untouched.
Can you show us the Partitions window in DMDE? Don't do a full scan. This should take less than 1 minute.
I would have thought that Stellar would have found your multimedia files, unless they were in some strange format.
Can you attach your drive to the system you are posting from?
Otherwise you could create a bootable FreeDOS USB drive and use the DOS version of DMDE:
It sounds like the problem may be logical rather than physical.
Could we see the Partitions window in DMDE? This should only take 1 minute or less. Avoid a full scan until you have cloned the drive.
Not having a file extension should not prevent you from recovering a file. As far as the file system is concerned, extensions are irrelevant.
I don't know about your detailed PhotoRec questions, but I do have an idea that may help you.
I recently had to do a recovery against a corrupted micro SD card. Neither Windows nor Linux would mount it; it was basically invisible.
I first tried TestDisk, then PhotoRec - both failed to get anything useful on the drive. After cranking on it for a long time - they found nothing.
Then, without much hope, I decided to try DMDE too:
https://dmde.com/download.html
BINGO!
In a short amount of time - it had found all directories. It was like looking at a file manager. I was able to browse the directory tree and find what I needed.
From what I understand, the main limitation of the free version is that you cannot recursively recover a whole directory tree; you have to recover from each directory individually. Since I just wanted the media folder (DCIM), that was fine. So this should work for your case too.
The extraction of the individual files did take a while - but I was recovering 100MB media files, so yours may go quicker. Incidentally I used it on Mint 18.3, so another overlap with your case.
So - I can't tell you whether to turn PhotoRec off or not, but I would bet that the DMDE method would get you your file quicker, even if you started now...
Why did you start with HXD?
Did you give Parted a chance?
Do you have access to a Linux machine?
I've had great luck lately with DMDE finding partitions -but I'm not sure about your lag problem.
Does the lagging still occur when the drive is unmounted?
i317 is Note 2, and Note 4 as you mentioned in the other post. eMMC here will be a separate chip and BGA153 which makes things a bit easier, but the chip is still "glued"/underfilled and is nasty to get off.
I'm not all that familiar with US variants, but looks like i317 may not have locked bootloader. In this case you can download TWRP, flash with Odin (3.07 or 3.09 version should be ok), boot into it and mount userdata partition, or make full image and do whatever you need. https://twrp.me/samsung/samsunggalaxynote2att.html
Try testdisk. It might recover your HFS+ partition and you will be able to browse your files and folders. If no,t at least, you might be able to scan the drive at low level and recover all (or almost all) your files, but without keeping its original filename nor the folders structure.
Well, you can try testdisk from cgsecurity to see if it can just find and restore the lost partition. It's cmd based, but pretty easy if you just read what's it says and make appropriate selections.
If that doesn't work, then you'll probably want to scan the whole drive using R-Studio.
Also, you should be aware that if this was a My Book drive and you removed it from the enclosure, any data previously written to it would have been encrypted by the USB bridge board.
Thanks for the responses.
I couldn't get HDDLiveCD to boot on a USB drive (either in BIOS mode or UEFI) created with Rufus, but it worked with UNetbootin.
I moved some files around on some of my other hard drives so I could get a blank 2TB drive for the clone/image and I'm currently running HDDSuperClone.
I'm going to let it run all night and hopefully get some good news in the morning.
Zar is the best from my personal experiance and it's free to recover pictures and videos. Download it here
As for "Can you" ... yes and no. anything that was overwritten won't be able to be recovered no matter what you use. But anything in it's current freespace should recover easily even if it was reformatted. As long as it wasn't "wiped" with a multi pass system. Just make sure the drive you are recovering to is lager then the drive you are recovering from and you should be good to go.
Pretty unlikely from what I have seen. I dont really think it has malware, just a corrupted FAT.
My guess is that she didn't know it was used on one. It was from Oct 23rd 2013, so its been a while. The ~$* files also lead me to believe it was actually on a mac, not that it really matters.
I would try ZeroAssumption's Demo to see if / what you could recover. If it shows nothing, maybe try /u/RecoveryForce 's suggestion.
You can give PhotoRec a try and see if it can find your lost files.
It's command line based but it's easy to understand. I'm not sure if the Mac version includes the graphic interface verrson, QPhotoRec but if it does, it's even easier to use.
There is a step by step guide available here that explains how to proceed with the command line version of PhotoRec.
Here is the link http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec
It comes built into Ubuntu. I've been most successful by using TestDisk to create an image of the media, then you can use Photorec to search for files. It supports all the major file formats, but if you need to add your own, it'd not the end of the world. Justy download the Ubuntu ISO, then boot off it.
Both programs you've mentioned doesn't worth a penny. PhotoRec could perform a lot better (sadly, it's a command based utility). You can also try stellar photo recovery that have multiple camera file type support so it can recover the videos you've recorded recently.
Keep in mind that as your memory card seems failing, you might not get enough time to perform all the tests. Do try recovering them as soon as you could and save them to a safer place.
Good luck!!
You probably can't recover "overwritten" files (if you clicked "replace" instead of "keep both copies").
System restore doesn't restore user files (AFAIK). Just system changes.
Anyhow, I agree, turn laptop off. Then ideally clone the laptop's hard drive and then scan. In your case, I would recommend PhotoRec (free and great at recovering photos).
No need for any of that. If you had a google account on the phone (which android pretty much forces you to do), just log in with that same google account on another phone and your contacts will sync back from google.
Or just go here and log in: https://contacts.google.com/
I'd say using an adapter like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digiflex-SATA-Adapter-Cable-Hard/dp/B004JO1Z52/ref=sr_1_7 and making an image of the disk would anyway be the first step. He can always post a new thread after that if he has problems opening the image.
Yea it wasn't anything too important in the drive. Just wanted to see if I could recover them since I had some time. This was my drive too, not sure if I can post the link https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Hard-Drive/dp/B07CRG7BBH/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=1tb+external+hard+drive&qid=1671603449&s=electronics&sprefix=1tb+ext%2Celectronics%2C122&sr=1-3
Thank you so much for the response. I will unplug it.
This is the harddrive model:
Toshiba 2TB HDTB420EK3AA - https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-External-Drive-HDTB420EK3AA-Black/dp/B07994QL95?th=1
I am 80% certain the folder was still present after running First Aid. But every time I would try to move a file, Finder would crash and the disk would take a long time to remount. I assume you suggest taking it to a professional at this point? :(
Hey mate,
I've followed your procedure but it haven't returned any results, or rather it recovered everything, but all of the corrupted files remained corrupted. I wonder if it would be possible to restore them using a hex editor, filling in the blanks? I must add, I really appreciate the effort.
Actually scratch that, I just opened the file with a hex editor and all of the values are set at 00, which basically means that my files are f*ed beyond repair. Any idea how could this even happen?
Cheers
Here is one of the files: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=8A0CAC6E2976C146!7120&authkey=!AFSXd0cgbvKfLj0&ithint=file%2cJPG
You can use the log viewer to get a graphical representation of the log. The pattern should look somewhat consistent all the way through the drive, showing that one head is dead.
I can't read the model number but it is this drive
I meant so-called jtag boxes like easy-jtag, medusa, ufi, riff etc. It's possible to find a reader with SD card interface, or USB interface for specific eMMC chips (usually BGA153 or BGA221) on Amazon, like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Interface-programmer-Clamshell-Structure-Recovery/dp/B01IH03AV0
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I see they're not available anymore, but there should still be some on AliExpress.
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Since eMMC uses the same interface as SD card, it's even possible to adapt an SD card adapter and solder wires from eMMC to the adapter, but it's not a simple task and hard to debug. You can google it, there are some projects on github on creating your own adapter as well.
I deleted the files, then emptied the bin. Trying to clear space without realizing what exactly was in the file. This is the drive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVS7S94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Appreciate your reply
SATA drive. According to the model name I can see in windows https://www.amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-Inch-0J22413-HTS541010A9E680/dp/B007RE0EQC
The connector used by this drive is called IDE or PATA. 3.5" desktop IDE drives and 2.5" IDE laptop drives have different connector sizes. Sounds like you tried a laptop drive adapter which isn't compatible.
You need an adapter with the desktop connector plus external 12V power adapter such as this: Amazon Link.
Alternatively an adapter like this will allow you to connect it to an internal desktop SATA port: Amazon Link.
If the drive makes any abnormal sound when powered up, or you run into issues when trying to read data, consider sending it to a professional for recovery.
There are several ways you could check voltage:
Some motherboards will measure and display the PSU's 12V, 5V, and 3.3V outputs in BIOS. Additionally a program like HWinfo64 may be able to display these measurements in software (depending on support from the MB). This isn't necessarily the most accurate or reliable measurement, but certainly the easiest.
A purpose built PSU tester can be used to safely and easily take an external measurement of the PSU. Readings from these are quite accurate, although they can only test at 0 load.
You can also measure with a multimeter, you just need to be careful as there's more risk that you accidentally short or damage something. For added safety, you can disconnect the PSU cables from the system first, and jump start it for testing.
Seagate externals use a standard 2.5" SATA hard drive inside. You can pop open the plastic housing to remove it, and connect the drive internally to a desktop PC. There will be a tiny circuit board, probably covered with foil tape, that is converting the SATA ports to USB.
If you only have a laptop, you could also try connecting the drive with a SATA-USB cable such as this: Amazon link. If the drive itself is failing, then this connection won't be as reliable as a direct SATA connection to a desktop motherboard... but it will still allow you to rule out whether the issue is just the USB bridge board, or if it's the drive. And since you say this is "extremely important data", you should be sending the drive to a professional lab if it doesn't work correctly with the new cable, or if there's any other signs that the drive itself is faulty.
/u/whatisapurpose, Looks like your comment got removed due using a shortened link, I can only see it on your profile. Here's the Amazon link for others' convenience.
Have you checked if this is a Toshiba manufactured SSD, which is apparently not supported by this adapter? Manufacturer name should be printed on the drive's label. Other than that, it's possible the SSD is just beyond software and DIY recovery and needs to be sent to a pro.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQPKJXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thank god. Here is the Amazon link.
> Guy at the apple store told me it was the gpu that died, although I’m not really sure because when the battery died it successfully showed the charging logo.
FYI, some 2013 MBP models use an Nvidia GPU in addition to the Intel iGPU. In this case, it's plausible for the Nvidia GPU to have failed rendering the machine mostly unusable, while basic display functions like the batt indicator and sometimes the white boot screen are still possible via the iGPU. Can you provide the exact Model No. and EMC No. of the mac (printed on the bottom cover)?
The SSD not displaying any capacity usually indicates a hardware failure. It's maybe possible that you're using an incompatible adapter as well, although I suspect you wouldn't see a name or any indication of the drive in that case. Some of the early Apple PCIe SSD's are actually not using NVMe protocol, but are using something slightly different called PCIe-AHCI. If this is the case (which I'm not 100% sure), some NVMe to USB adapters will not support the drive depending the specific controller chip that is being used by the adapter.
Mac SSD to desktop PCIe cards such as this (amazon link) are a more reliable method of accessing the drive for this reason.
https://www.insidemylaptop.com/hp-zbook-firefly-15-g8-disassembly/
Open the bottom cover, remove the SSD. Connect to a working computer with an adapter such as: Amazon Link. (There are cheaper NVMe adapters out there, just linking this one because I have it and know it works reliably). As long as the SSD is healthy it should be recognized by a USB adapter.
A possible hurdle you may encounter is if the SSD is encrypted with Bitlocker or other full-drive encryption. With Bitlocker, you will prompted for a 48 digit recovery key to unlock the drive. This recovery key may be available through the Microsoft account that you signed into the computer with, or your company's IT department may have the key if they configured your account on the computer.
> IDE drives, since motherboards haven't supported those for the longest time
You can actually use a SATA-IDE adapter such as: Amazon Link, which allows direct access to the drive. Not sure if these are technically as good as native IDE, but certainly more reliable than USB. And of course a different version would be required for 2.5" IDE.
Would it be possible to read the rom from U12 using this https://www.amazon.co.uk/AITRIP-EEPROM-CH341A-Programmer-Adapter/dp/B08H8BR1LZ and flashing it on the donor board?
D3 doesn't beep for continuity and neither does R60 but R43 does. Somehow I may be doing it wrong? I'm just touching the solder at either end of the components. D3 shows 0.456v in diode mode the correct direction, and 0 the other.
That block of pins is an adapter that you can pull off, underneath will be standard laptop IDE pins: https://i.imgur.com/JTZ5JPl.png
You can then connect it using an adapter such as this: Amazon link. If the drive is still in healthy condition, you will be able to simply copy the data. If has any issues, then it may need further steps for safe recovery, in which case you should make another post for more advice.
I tend to use readers for one specific type of memory card. So for SD I use dedicated readers, not a 200-in-one type reader. For SD I am using https://www.amazon.nl/Sony-MRW-S1-Speed-UHS-II-SD-geheugenkaartlezer/dp/B06XSCHJY8.
If that SATA cable doesn't have a 12V power adapter then it's not going to spin up your drive. You require an adapter such as this: Amazon Link.
Don't bother neither of those will work with your laptop they are for a desktop.
You need something like this https://www.amazon.ca/SinLoon-Converter-Cable-Adapter-5-25in/dp/B08KT3F998/ Link for amazon canada.
This is nothing more than this exact adapter with a 3x markup. Literally identical, they couldn't even be bothered to at least print their own brand name on it. These are nothing special, they'll connect a healthy IDE or SATA drive to your computer. If a drive is damaged at all, USB interfaces like this are unsuitable to attempt recovery.
> they don't appear as drives on either Mac or Windows computers
What exactly do you mean by this? If you plug it into your Windows computer and check Disk Management do you see nothing? Or do you mean that they just don't appear in file explorer? Can you provide the model numbers from these drives?
Did these drives come out of their own separate enclosures, or where there multiple drives inside one NAS? Most external NAS boxes like this are tiny Linux computers, and they drives will typically be formatted with a Linux filesystem, ext2/3/4. This is not natively supported by Windows (or mac) so there will be extra steps required to access the data. If the drives were password protected, then they might be encrypted as well, and there may not be any way to decrypt them without having a working enclosure and of course knowing the password.
Here's a link to the LiveCD mentioned above. Burn it to an empty USB flash drive using Rufus.
You can't work with a faulty drive using a USB adapter or enclosure. USB is unreliable and unpredictable when dealing with failing drives. If the PC you're working from has an internal M.2 SATA slot you can install it there, you may need to swap it with your current boot drive which is fine since you'll be booting from the USB Live OS to perform the clone. Putting the drive into a SATA adapter like this and then connecting it directly to a motherboard SATA port is a suitable option as well.
The target drive (drive you clone to) can be connected via USB or internally, doesn't matter. But the patient drive must not use a USB interface.
I checked the HDD & noticed that it does use CHS. I do have a Promise Technology Ultra66 EIDE Controller PCI Card (Like the one seen here.) that I am wondering if I could try using with this old HDD? I don't have the drivers & software for it though.
> I am primarily concerned with getting picture and video files from the drive, but word and other office files would be good too.
How important is this data? Is going to a specialist an option?
> The drive is a 1TB Seagate BarraCuda (link to product: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Hard-Drive/dp/B01LYNQXCP?th=1).
The listing says ST1000LM048, but it’s not uncommon for an equivalent drive to show up when you order online.
> The drive is not beeping or making an grinding or ticking noises, it just stopped responding. I took it out of the enclosure and plugged it directly onto my PC motherboard and still couldn't get it to respond. When I try to open it or do anything with the drive listing in File Explorer, it takes a long time to respond and then gives an error message saying it is unable to read drive and to do a scan and repair.
That is probably the single most common symptom of physical failure
> I allowed Windows to scan and repair but it didn't change anything.
Despite appearing to have made no difference, this is one of the worst things that could possibly be done.
> Any recovery software out there that might be good for this situation?
The only remotely safe DIY thing you can do is clone it with HDDSuperClone or DRRescue and scan the clone with competent software. Do not scan the drive directly with any data recovery software. If this is worth anything to you though, go to a specialist. If that isn’t an option right now but the data is still important, you can keep it disconnected from power for years and years without it degrading any further
My point is anyone keeping their seed on a hard drive or SSD is doing it wrong. This will last forever: https://smile.amazon.com/ColdTi-Cryptocurrency-Storage-Anti-Tamper-Unbranded/dp/B077CYKHZ6. Anything buried for 100 years will be so obsolete that it may be hard in that aspect (no tools to support the interface). But, if the platters inside are still good, they can likely be recovered, if the tools still exist.
I can't find any USB / SATA adapters for this SSD, but you can get a PCIe card which will let you install and access it in a desktop PC:
Maybe someone else knows a more convenient option, but there's not much out there for these mac proprietary SSD's.
Can you post a picture of the SSD, or at least give an exact model #? Looks like this brand makes replacement drives for Macs (Amazon Link), so maybe you have a drive with an apple proprietary connector?
Hey, thank you for the response, I really appreciate it! The Drive Model is a Seagate BarraCuda 2TB Internal Hard Drive HDD- 3.5 Inch Sata 6Gb/s 7200 RPM Drive. Identical or extremely similar to this: https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Barracuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07H2RR55Q/ref=sr_1_1?crid=DJN7JKXWE8P1&keywords=2tb%2Bseagate&qid=1649122691&sprefix=2%2Btb%2Bseagate%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-1&th=1
I have stopped using the drive, and have not used it very much since deleting all the photos and videos with the exception of maybe 20-30 photos, and a potentially a few updates for some video games. The drive still has approximately 700 GB free, and I never filled the drive, or had to delete things to make storage. I tried using DMDE, and I believe I did a recovery, however the program goes a little over my head. All that appears to be found was some random png's that look like temp files for video games (I hope that makes sense, I do not know any terminology) I tried to use R-studio but encountered some problems and will try to use UFS, and getbackdata tonight. Any advice on how I can conduct a "full scan". I think the data should still be recoverable but I may not be looking in the right places, or using the programs correctly. Any idea, why I am unable to find the photos and videos? any tips or additional suggestions are greatly appreciated as these photos mean a lot to me!
I can go one better and link to the model itself: USB 3.0 to SATA Adapter for... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07JGT17B8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It responds to it in the same way as it does to the original WD enclosure. I tested it on a 2.5 inch sata drive and it works fine on that one.
If the drive was seen in both Windows and Mac it must have been formatted exFAT at one time. If it is now APFS it may have been accidentally reformatted.
You can try DMDE (dmde.com) which allows you to save a significant amount of data free.
Not UBCD, it's extremely outdated and I don't find any of its disk tools to be useful. Never used System Rescue, but it doesn't seem to include much either.
HDDLiveCD is good and comes with useful data recovery tools preinstalled such as HDDSuperclone, ddrescue, and DMDE. You can also use Rufus or certain other bootable tools to set up any Linux distro with 'Persistent storage', which allows you to install software and customize however you want and all changes will be saved.
Hiren's Boot CD is another possible option, it's Winidows PE with many tools preinstalled and no setup required on your part. This includes some useful software that is not available on Linux such as HDDScan for drive testing and various good cloning tools (for imaging healthy drives only!). It also comes with a lot of crap software, so do your research with what you're using. Win PE should not be used for failing drives, better to clone using HDDsuperclone / ddrescue on Linux first.
I think it depends on what version of iOS is on it. Is the phone backed up to a local drive (Windows, Mac OS)? Backed up to iCloud? Have you wiped this phone of data, or is it still on the phone?
There are utilities that can pry into the backup file. Which is the easier option than trying to get if off the phone directly. I think you would you would possibly need to jailbreak it for that. (earlier versions of iOS on the iPhone 4 may be easier than newer ones). Other than that, accessing the files directly from the phone.
I use this one. https://imazing.com/iphone-backup-browser-extractor?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzPuilMHN9QIVmMCGCh2Q1gZbEAAYASAAEgIS1PD_BwE
I originally got it to copy all the text and voice mail off of my mom's phone for her. But it does pretty well at retrieving files. Especially from the backup file that would be stored on your computer. It is not a disk recovery application though, like R-Studio or UFS Explorer. So it won't help if you don't have a backup or if you've wiped the phone.
If you've wiped (reset) the phone without a backup, I don't know what your options are. Most likely it's similar to an SSD and might not be recoverable. But a recovery pro on here would be much better to answer that.
83% suggests to me that you read 5/6 heads and you will likely not get anything more without the assistance of a professional data recovery who can perform a head change.
You might want to install ddrescueview and get a visual of how the damage is spread out.
The power plug is called Molex, it is supplied by the PC's PSU. If the PSU is newer, and doesn't include this cable, you can use a SATA to Molex adapter such as this: Amazon Link
<3
You can get an adapter that'll go from "IDE" to USB. Make sure to buy one that has it's own power...like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB-SATA-Adapter-USB2SATAIDE/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_8
(I haven't used that one, will have to do a little research - I can't find the one I bought a few years ago but they all do mostly the same thing, interface between USB and your drive)
I just had to do this with a galaxy s10+ that got run over.
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https://www.amazon.com/QGeeM-Adapter-Charger-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07Y6F74F1
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Get one of these (make sure it's one that can accept external power) and plug a usb hub into it for a keyboard and a mouse. plug the device into your phone, as well as a TV, and cross your fingers. You MIGHT have to press something on the screen with your finger, so watch a couple youtube videos on the super simple "how to" videos for this, and see if there's an on screen prompt you have to guess the location of with your fingers. might be some trial and error...I ended up going to my local best buy and getting 2 or 3 different types, since they tend to be hit or miss with HDMI. I can't remember which one i ended up using, but it does look like that one, so maybeee ??????
All in all, you should be able to figure it out once you've got a screen up.
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Good luck!
The cable at least is a standard USB Type A to B male to male cable:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Not sure about the power supply, but any generic power supply with the right volts/amps should work, if the drive is good.
APEMAN 1440P&1080P Dual Dash Cam, 1520P max, Support 128GB, Front and Rear Camera for Cars with 3 Inch IPS Screen, Driving Recorder with IR Sensor Nig https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRV85NP/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_ZqJhEbq6B2CNn
Try booting some older live linux distro - probably off from CD drive, if it works :) see if you can access files from there.
Windows 95 used FAT file system, so HDD should be on the smaller side, less than 4 GB - you say you see HDD but not files? Did you try to make image out of it? Alternatively, you can boot live linux, more modern, on your PC and connect that HDD through USB adapter to linux, see if anything is visible.
Can you boot that PC? If you can, and if you have attached CD writer, you can write all files to a CD with software like Nero Burning Rom - you should find old version, though, something like v3 or v4. Alternatively, you can link it up to a network, and FTP it, or share it, although it was quite a long ago since I've last saw Windows 95 to say how to do it. I'd put up FTP server on newer machine and ftp from windows 95 to the server.
There are a lot of options, but they all depend on your knowledge and will :) I'd do it for fun, but I think I'm too far away for that :)
Hi, if you have previously stored your iTunes backup files on any other external storage, then just restore the data back to your macOS and use it. However, if unlike thousands other user’s, you do not have any data backup available, then there is no other free solution available. Also, if possible then use some data recovery software that can help in retrieving the deleted iTunes backup data. One free to download software suggestion is here: http://download.cnet.com/Stellar-Phoenix-Mac-Data-Recovery/3000-2248_4-10745424.html Let me know whether you required any further help!!!
Have you proper backup available using Time Machine or third party utility? If yes, then just restore the data and use the lost Mac files and folder. Otherwise, if the data is valuable then try to use some data recovery software like this to retrieve them.
Hi poisoner,
Both Easeus and Disk Drill (mistakenly you have written Data Drill); both data recovery software uses different algorithms for recovering the deleted or lost data. It might be possible that if you try some other data recovery software, then it will give other results after the scanning process gets completed. The reasons you should try data recovery with this Mac data recovery software is the availability of RAW Recovery and Deleted Volume Scan (including recovery). You should apply file filter for specific file types and check if the software can bring your data back as you require.
First you can try the demo version of these below software and check for the repairable files in the preview mode. Once sure of your files, you can go ahead to buy the software.
As you have mentioned that your hard disk partition is showing RAW. So , I can suggest you to go with BitRecover Data Recovery Wizard as it supports data recovery from RAW partitions. Get the application from http://download.cnet.com/BitRecover-Data-Recovery-Wizard/3000-2094_4-76442400.html
The hard drive partitioned map has been messed up. I am not sure if Disk Utility will repair that it will require rebuilding the partition map of your HDD. Try Stellar Phoenix Mac data recovery V7.0 and scan this disk for file recovery. The software should mount this drive so that you can proceed with the scan. Let this tool scan your drive so that you can come to know about the chances of recovery.
If the metadata is intact, it's probably just a codec issue. Essentially your computer doesn't know how to decode the video. Try installing this: http://download.cnet.com/Windows-Essentials-Media-Codec-Pack/3000-13632_4-10662709.html
Download a copy of UFS Explorer. Depending on your setup, you should be able to either see, or select the LUN via the 'open' tab at the top. Scan the volume for lost data. DO NOT save and data back to the LUN.
https://www.ufsexplorer.com/ufs-explorer-standard-recovery.php
Sure, the biggest problem for data recovery in most cases is extensive use of the drive which causes data overwriting, rather than the other way around. Try UFS Explorer (https://www.ufsexplorer.com/ufs-explorer-standard-recovery.php), it supports HFS+, so you can see what can be recovered.
Well, you could use a "live" system by creating a bootable usb drive with a linux OS. There are tools like YUMI – Multiboot USB Creator
From the page: > Use it to boot from USB your favorite Live Linux portable Operating Systems, Linux and Windows Installers, antivirus utilities, disc cloning, backup, penetration testing, diagnostic tools, and much more. This Universal USB tool makes it easy for anyone to create their own customized multi purpose Bootable USB.
Using that tool allows you to prepare a bootable usb drive with a multitude of tools and operating systems, it has a built-in list to choose from.
Or you could follow the steps from the ubuntu page and install it via Rufus:
https://ubuntu.com/tutorials/create-a-usb-stick-on-windows#1-overview
Either way you plug the prepared usb device into the laptop and boot from it. You might have to manually select the usb drive by pressing a key when starting the laptop, often DEL, F2, F8, F10-F12.
Then use the tool of your choice to browse the harddisk, should it be encrypted you won't be able to access it.
Here you go my good Sir:
Here is the logfile: https://gofile.io/?c=sAssrd
I know some people are particular as to what file sharing sites they trust, so let me know if gofile.io isn't acceptable to you.
The drive was part of a hybrid drive system, the SSD of which is still in the iMac (the iMac is now running again using an SSD as the main drive).
Many thanks for your help!
I use this one to get info off of iOS devices. https://imazing.com It’s not free, but does occasionally go on sale. I’ve always preferred Apple products, but it’s definitely more if a walled garden type environment.
Agreed, it’s very basic. It has none of the backup/temp file features of proper word processing software.
You have a few options: there is the Office 365 online stuff that’s free, but it’s online only.
Google Docs/gsuite is great, and your school may already be using it. You just need a gmail account.
If you want to avoid too much web-based stuff, then Libre Office is for you, absolutely free and 100% legit. It does everything MS Word does, and it is compatible with it, if you save your documents as .docx
I am sorry, I should have clarified it from the beginning. I looked up the PCB number and found the exact model of the PCB, which I replaced and swapped the ROM. It is a 100809471 RevA, which is a Seagate PCB. The Label on the harddrive looks like a non-OEM Version, a recertified one, here is the link to the drive: https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B07M71TZ78/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VSZ2B5ZEJQWK5D2C7TGE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I know of the delicate components inside and the dangers of any dust inside a hard drive, that is why I opened it in a dust-free environment, which I have access to through my employer.
I have not seen that particular adapter, but it looks like it has been designed for 2.5" drives that work on 5v which is supplied via the USB port. But 3.5" hard drives like yours need a 12v supply, so the drive will not spin up with the 5v supply from your laptop. You need something like this which plugs into a power outlet. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-External-docking-station-drives/dp/B00U8KSLA8/ref=sr\_1\_5?keywords=startech%2Bsata%2Busb%2Bdocking%2Bstation&qid=1639666745&sr=8-5&th=1
Does that SATA adapter you're using have a power brick that plugs into the wall? If not, this adapter doesn't provide enough power for that desktop drive and it is simply not even spinning up.
Your adapter needs to be something like this, with an external power adapter.
I was looking at those just wasn’t sure if it was right, says 40 pin. So this thing is all I https://
I use this one. Maybe it isn't the best, but will do the work https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sata+ide+to+usb+cable&qid=1638830205&sr=8-3
3.5" IDE to USB Adapter with molex power
Here's a link for an idea, I haven't used this one personally but it should do the trick.
There can’t be USB in the mix at all — it obscures certain commands that are necessary for delicately imaging a failing drive and will slow down recovery a lot. The drive is on borrowed time, you want to clone it fast
Someone more familiar with that model can probably give you a better idea of how successful you’ll be as well as any quirks it’s known for. Unfortunately I don’t know it, so my advice will be generic. It would be wise to wait for someone that knows that drive to show up before you plug the failing drive again.
With the failing drive disconnected, create a bootable flash drive with HDDLiveCD using Rufus. The two best cloning tools for failing drives are both free and both pre-installed on that. You could manually install them on a different Linux OS, but having them installed and configured for you is just easy.
Then follow the DDRescue guide in the right margin of this subreddit — keep an eye on it and stop if read errors suddenly start piling up.
Yeh, that's definitely malware. Not a chance in hell the FBI would ask for BTC as a payment method. (although they will quite happily 'confiscate it' and auction it off later)
What OS do you use? There may, and it's a very small may, be able to recover some of the files in an unencrypted state.
See this article that was written for the CryptoLocker virus that I suspect you have a variant of. It's via Bleeping Computer, which is a fantastic resource for all things Infection. You may (may) be able to access some unaffected files via Shadow Explorer/ Shadow Volume Copies.
Thanks!
For option one I’m really struggling to find the correct adapter. Would this be it? https://www.amazon.com/GODSHARK-Adapter-MacBook-Controller-Converter/dp/B07QL57V8F
If so do I need to by a separate usb piece?
No, this adapter requires installation into a desktop computer.
What you're looking for is something like this: Amazon Link, which claims to support 2013-2015 SSD's. Disclaimer: I have never used this particular adapter or brand, so I cannot confirm its functionality or reliability.
The easiest way to clone a drive is, what I assume is physical hardware like This ?
Hello thanks for your response.
My current OS is windows 10, This is the exact same model I have, but my friend got it from a local shop probably, I unplugged it for now.
If you did a factory restore, my guess is that you chose "Fully Clean The Drive", which would do a format of the drive.
I don't know how much luck you're going to have unless you use special tools. You might need to check with the folks over at /r/computerforensics/
If you want to try something free in the meantime, try FreeUndelete - just make sure to read the whole section under "Proper Usage Techniques".
This is super important. Don't skip it. -- If your files are somehow still on the drive, you don't want to overwrite those sectors by installing the program to that same hard drive that you're trying to recover from, so either download to a USB or another hard drive.
UPDATE:
Minus 1 points. Wow. Post a useful comment, get downvoted. Love you guys.
Try FreeUndelete - just make sure to read the whole section under "Proper Usage Techniques".
This is super important. Don't skip it.
The photos are likely still on your hard drive - but if you download or install the recovery program on your hard drive, those sectors could get overwritten, so either download to a USB or another hard drive.
Then read my other comment about undoing that setting on your PC.