What are /r/dbotcorexy's favorite Products & Services?

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Would either of these work (PCB vs Aluminum)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-heatbed-MK2A-300-300-2-0mm-12v-RepRap-RAMPS-1-4-PCB-Heatbed-Hot/32695519221.html

or

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-RepRap-3D-Prusa-Mendel-Printer-MK2A-300-300-3-0mm-Heater-Bed-RAMPS-1-4/32668984871.html

The shape of the cooler doesn't matter as much as you might think. What is important is airflow, and those square fans don't deliver much of it. Look for one based on this kind of 12V blower fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BMX2S6/

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNEQKC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLFhBbRREHBHC

Voltage ratings for stepper motors isn't as important as the current rating, but they'll run faster on a higher voltage.

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=284828.0

I know this is old post but when i frist build my D-Bot is couldn't get the gantry to move worth a damn. It all stemmed from the awful Chinese bearings in the wheels. The worst part was that it was nearly impossible to get the bearings out of the wheels without nicking the delrin.. I endded up getting all new wheels from open builds and some good quailty bearings. Everything moves like butter since. I truly believe its worth the extra $$

What bed are you using? If its aluminum, you may want to go 110v rather than 12/24v because its got much higher thermal mass and takes a good bit more energy to heat up. If you're going PEI on top, its also a thermal insulator, so you need a bit more oomph to get it heated up quickly.

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70

It heats up the bed very quickly, maintains temperature very evenly, and is extremely well made. You just need to get a DC/AC SSR to control it. The Duet will report a warning that its overpowered when you run the heater calibration on it, but its overpowered in a good way. I installed a second dedicated power switch and plug on the printer for the 110v circuit, so I can power the Duet with the bed shut off or unplugged (which is safer for screwing around with the printer).

Make sure you run a line from the ground pin on your 110v feed to the aluminum frame on the printer, so if you ever get a short, it'll run power to ground and trip a GFCI outlet/breaker rather than making you dead when you touch it.

It took maybe three weeks to get, even from Amazon, but I think it was worth the wait.

Edit: if you go that route, I uploaded to Thingiverse a protective cap for the particular solid state relay I used that better protects the 110v circuit from accidental contact: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2497356

Thanks for the safety advice, that's obviously something I want to be careful with. I'm looking at getting this keenovo 200x300mm heater and this SSR. What kind of fuses do you recommend for something like this?

My Chinese one capped out. Got this one a week ago. So far so good

WerFamily SSR Solid State Relay SSR-40DD DC-DC 3-32V DC / 5-250V DC / 40A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPT9GG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3p0vzbECND6MA

I live in Germany, so not sure how much use my sources would be. But in essence, it's one of those https://www.amazon.com/Aupo-Thermal-Fuse-Cutoff-BF184/dp/B0124KO99G. They're quite easy to integrate into the circuit - my silicone pad had 2 wires for AC. One I've connected directly to the line voltage in the plug, one to neutral through the SSR. I've cut the line wire quite close to the heater, soldered the thermal fuse in the break and then covered with high-temp RTV silicone (something like https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-31314-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B00ID8IUJY/). And then once it hardened, added some more silicone. So it wont fall off or whatever. Maximum bed temp is set to 140 in my firmware, with the fuse breaking at 167, so I've got quite a bit of a leeway here. The downside is that if it does indeed fail - you're in for a lot of cleaning, it's not easy to rip that stuff from the silicone

Also if you do go down this route, I'd suggest looking up for to solder those fuses - I've destroyed the 1st one I've tried. Apparently, if you heat a thermal fuse with a soldering iron, they trip (who'd have guessed). What did it for me was soldering to the legs while the body of the fuse was submerged in icy water. I've also slid some heatshink on the fuse body and legs because the body is not insulated from the legs. All in all it was a bit of work but now I'm reasonably sure that my awesome 600W heated bed won't kill anything or set the house on fire.

It's the same one I've bought except for mine being for 220V. You should be around 6 A at 110 V, so your SSR should handle that without a trouble. Keenovo recommended me to use a fuse for around 165 Celcius, so unless you want your bed to go hotter than that I'd stick to that. They also mentioned the maximum suggested temp for their heater being 233, but I really wouldn't go there.

At a quick glance, found this guy on amazon https://www.amazon.com/THERMODISC-G4A01167C-FUSE-THERMAL-pieces/dp/B011CQKYEW. But there are a lot of 10 amp 250V fuses in that form factor with different temperature ratings out there, so just pick up any at your favourite electronics vendor. It's a bit tricky to solder them and you should insulate it pretty well, but in my case I felt it was worth it just for the peace of mind.

I used a miter saw for my dbot but in the past I've cut a lot of extrusion with my small circular saw with a similar setup and this blade has worked really well. Not real cheap though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XREDX2/

Yes But only 1 motor Turns if I swap the pins on the control board then then that one moves and not the other.

Yes.

Control Board

Hey, that's my saw! Too funny. Just make sure it is straight and true. It worked great for my D-BOT. Just be ready for tiny aluminum shavings to go flying all over the place.

Use a machinest square to check the saw, something like this - https://www.amazon.com/BL-123-Precision-Steel-1-2-3-Blocks/dp/B00092CJC6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497885240&sr=8-6&keywords=machinist+square.

yes, but you need the right size. Red is the smallest size you can get at the local hardware store, but it is too big for most 3D printer wiring. I got a bag of smaller ones on amazon and they worked great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFFKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: You can do things to make the red ones work like folding the end of the wire over to double the thickness, but the ones i listed were just a lot easier to work with.

I've been working on this for some time now. I followed cfeniak's build over on OpenBuilds and then stumbled on @spauda's version on Thingiverse. Since then I've been going crazy with ideas... but mostly just crazy.

Anyway, I've posted this for your feedback and discussion. How big is too big? What are the downsides? Upsides? Risks?

For what it's worth, I have suppliers lined up for the 600x600 heater, 550mm linear steppers and (hopefully) the borosilicate glass.

Also, I'm really interested in what people think about running the RM2-2RS bearings on the V-Slot. I've used them on my CNC router build and they're awesome, particularly when combined with eccentric spacers, but that was steel on steel.