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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086QHRLRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v5SxFb40VYA9V
If you don’t want to spend a fortune getting ripped off at MiniMotors for a kiddie bar, this is a nice alternative. It goes on the handlebars. I haven’t found a cheap one to go on the stem yet.
Hi, I use this for my Dualtron Thunder 2 - works on the Sigfox network, no sim card and it alerts me to unexpected movement. Needs to be recharged about every 2 months.
Valve extenders from Amazon, X AUTOHAUX 4 Pcs 39mm Screw-on Valve Cap Stem Extension Wheel Tire Cap Extender Adapter for Auto Car Truck Chrome Plated Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6VM6KZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JY8XY7XXWDRNC447DFKG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ok so I had this same problem last week, there might be a better solution but I’ve read somewhere to buy this tool that i’m linking, honestly works great with electric pump.
Barrel nuts or binding screws. Something like this
Witlans Chicago Binding Screws Assorted Kit,90 Sets 304 Stainless Steel Phillips Chicago Screw Binding Post Screw Kit for DIY Leather Decoration Scrapbook Photo Albums Bookbinding(9 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089YSR8W1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8G6TVD19AMA23W4BKWAG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just did a full brake bleed on my Victor using this kit from Amazon. One of the screw nozzles will work with the zoom brakes (check this video).
I think you can get replacement pads directly from the MiniMotors site.
This one looks similar to my Atom Night Ripper. Haven't seen or used this one though.
2 screw and 2 barrel nuts
binifiMux 10-Set M8x25mm Rivet Countersunk Hex Socket Cap Bolts and Hex Head Barrel Nuts for Furnitures Cribs Chairs, Nickel Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKWW4H8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_93YJ89AFTS7RP9KBMG0C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2 screws and 2 barrel nuts like this
Hello,
Firstly, thank you so much for this post. It is the most helpful thing online right now for those that are looking to upgrade their thunder to the MT5e.
I have a question which I hope you don't mind.
I found this brake bleed kit that works with Magura on amazon. They have two models, one with all-metal adaptors, and one (MUCH cheaper option) with plastic. Do you think the plastic version will work ok?
These are what I've been using for my Spider: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXS8V7N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I had a different tube previously, also off Amazon, but it only lasted about 300 miles (stock tubes also lasted about 300 miles). Have done about 100 miles on the new tube, so don't know if it's any better yet - but I've had more issues with other tubes and the stem valve being made of metal that's too soft, and hard to access. These are pretty slick.
>I'm guessing the manufacturing tolerances aren't aerospace-grade so each upgrade may be a bit different.
That is likely, which is why you made the right call buying 2 spacers, they don't cost much anyway. I was just following advice from someone from facebook group.
>Maybe I got lucky, but they came out with no rubbing almost right off the bat.
I can only guess that quality consistency of Xtech calipers may not be so great, but that would make sense, because they are very cheap.
>Critical Info: You must order two rear brakes. If you order the standard pair, you get a rear and front mount -- but the spider is designed such that both mounts are "rear" style mounts.
I bought the whole set including rotors from Aliexpress. Regarding the adapters now in retrospective I think it's best to use the original brackets + Shimano 18cm adapters. I don't have a picture of my rear wheel, but I think I just used the original bracket and a bunch of washers. I remember the height was a bitch to adjust and I still didn't get it 100% in the end.
I used a coil repair kit on the deck tread and it worked better than I expected, in fact that standard M5 screw is now tighter than it originally was.
I'm not even sure if the disc resonant vibration can be fixed - my suggestion would be to change the discs. I've changed mine to Magura Storm HC, but I can't test if the problem is gone yet because my second controller fried and this broad Freda from KWK keeps stalling with the replacement ��
This may be a stupid question, but why couldn't you slit the rubber grommet entering the battery compartment so you don't have to remove the securing nut? I understand the grommet is there for waterproofing, but a razor cut shouldn't compromise integrity that much if at all. If you're really paranoid you could use a bit of liquid electrical tape to make everything watertight afterwards.
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And thank you again for this writeup. Great stuff.
Disappointing about the brakes. It’s really annoying that they didn’t put the disc brake on the opposite side of the motor cable... I think it would have been a pretty easy mod if it weren’t for unsoldering the motor cable etc. One potentially very easy change would be replacing the brake cables with compressionless housing. I did this on my Zero 9 and it made a HUGE difference, about 30min mod Jagwire Pro Brake Cable Kit Mountain SRAM/Shimano Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0WYVCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lVy4Cb2GNRT7N
>Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.
Interesting, I wasn't aware of this one. Indeed could be really useful.
The only downside that I see is that you'll most likely have to remove the rear motor cable connectors, because you'll need to remove the rubber nut cap. When I was changing my rear brake disc last week, I managed to do that without removing the connectors.
Front motor cable connectors though have to be removed every time - otherwise it's just fucking impossible to pull it through those tight holes of the front suspension.