Just an FYI those panels are fire hazards. I would recommend a whole panel replacement. However they do make replacement breakers. I would also recommend hiring an electrician to enter the panel. There may be other issues inside.
Yeah they make switch covers that prevent you from turning the switch off. They have magnetic ones and also ones that just screw in replacing the existing screws. Here's a link for one on Amazon they got them for decora style to, but you can pick one at any hardware store. switch Cover
Could be the transformer feeding door bell have out and fried. If you have access to a multimeter check it for power.
It should look close to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQY88I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P600477Y9EPVC4PS01XY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This might be what you're looking for.
You need an adapter.
Link to adapter
You'll have to cut the wires coming out of the motor and terminate them in the end piece.
>is there a product that i can plug inbetween the light and the socket that can be used to turn it off or on.
or motion sensing control for the light, and bypass or leave the switch always on.
You’ll need to get your hands on one to figure out the connector style. Can’t tell from pictures.
Then just order a 7.4vdc power supply with at least 2amp rating.
You might be able to find a cheaper one, but here is an adapter on Amazon which is made for that purpose.
edit: It has a built-in 15 amp fuse so the range itself is protected, and the wire from the receptacle to the breaker box can already handle the 40amp breaker. This reddit post has more info.
With it being cloth wire I’d personally cut out the siding around the existing box and buy a weatherproof extension ring. I’d rather have that wire stay enclosed inside a box instead of being open to the vinyl.
You can get a basic multimeter for almost literally a couple of bucks on Amazon. I would suggest grab a cheap one and upgrade if you find it lacking.
I've used the one linked below for my home electrical wiring needs for a few years now. Mostly just making certain I know which line is hot and which is load. :)
There are timers that let you pick which parts of a 24 hr cycle the power will be on... Get one of these and you can select any custom.interval by just picking which segments are up and down. It's not just a button but is the simplest solution i know of.
The picture shows 2 GFCI's but these covers include inserts to facilitate just about any configuration. A switch and duplex or GFCI isn't uncommon.
The comment above is correct. Under the current cover is just a standard switch.
I’ve purchased these generic versions for two different chairs my parents had after their puppy chewed the old ones. They work great years later.
IKOCO Lift Chair Power Recliner AC/DC Switching Power Supply Transformer + Power Cord … https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXG9TQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_aWROBb3B717Y7
Is this one with the burr-grinder or a blade grinder? I've seen reports of (carefully) manually spinning the blades when attached sometimes does magic to eliminate the "hum, no grind" issue.
Otherwise, it should still work as a drip coffeemaker if you purchase ground coffee or have another means to turn your beans into grounds.
You can get a bluetooth or wifi controller that integrates with an app through an arduino at adafruit.
Have that control a relay that can handle the voltage and current.
You can check sites like adafruit or sparkfun.
They usually have good step by step guides. But this is more for embedded systems and that might be more a advanced than you want.
Check this as well, more simple solution: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F1FYF7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MZ117R6XGCSMWQ8EN528?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is correct. Not sure why you're getting downvoted. Example
Then there’s this:
Klein Tools ET310 AC Circuit Breaker Finder with Integrated GFCI Outlet Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FXGFV1PN82409WFXHEM2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Unless you’re looking to do minor construction and patch the wall you’re stuck with a two gang box.
You can get a - 1 S / 1 Blank - plate if you want and ditch that unused switch like this
If it is internal to the motor it's probably a thermal protection cut off. Some are auto reset, some are not. Typical temperature range is 80 degrees - 130 degrees C. You can buy a box of generic thermal fuses pretty cheap.
First you should measure the motors amp draw (after jumping out the safety device.) and compare it to the nameplate value. If it is drawing too much power you likely have either bad bearings or a short in the windings and that is the reason the safety device failed.
MoCA Is the answer - basically it allows you to run Ethernet over a coax cable, and have it coexist
You need a MoCA adapter at each end
Different versions (1.0, 2.0, 2.5 or 3) will be dictated by the networking speed you need
I’m sure 825watt is only going to be a peak power rating (not locked rotor though) but their truck battery almost certainly can’t provide the necessary 70a. in fact the alternator probably can’t either.
I get the feeling Op is going to be breaking things
Op should consider a manual trailer dolly
I just took a sheet of paper and wrote everything on that and taped it to the inside of the door lol but you can also get these if you want: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785PYVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZPRPDZA519PFV53ECVMB
I added a front pic of the breaker. Is this one from amazon a match? The only difference I see on the label is the Hz rating on the existing one says 50/60 Hz and the amazon says 60 Hz.
I appreciate the feedback.
As per the title my Siemens circuit breaker is Type QAF but the one I bought is type QAF2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8BVJ9I
The new circuit breaker is smaller than the QAF one but it looks like all the connection points are the same.
Is the new one a proper replacement for the existing breaker? Hope somebody can help.
You could always get a smart switch, and let it work off of that. (Batteries remote as the second switch)
Something like this
To get the desired effect, without running more wire.
This is a rather unique problem. Usually when people break the screw holes I would recommend these G-clips which work great in my experience. But you've blocked the hole entirely, so you're pretty much going to have to replace the box.
Replacing the box isn't hard, it's just a pain in the ass if you don't have enough slack on the Romex to pull it out of the integrated cable connectors and put it back in.
Why not get an Emporia Smart Home Energy monitor. I can measure consumption at each circuit real-time or over a period of time. I can also setup notification triggers as needed.
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering
It is supposed to have fuses, such as (I believe) these:
If you wanted a non-fuseable one,
Thanks. They use 0.552 watts each on high so I'm going to order a 2.5 amp switch. From what I've read online, the variable switches (dials, not the 3 or 4 level switches) seem to cause humming in the fans.
Yaaa I'm thinking I'm going to go that route. Seems like a lot more work, but I really want to update those lights. I believe it's a 100mm hole but I'll have to double check when I go ahead and drop the current light fixture out. So if I'm understanding you correctly, something like in the link below should work fine as long I get one that fits the holes in my ceiling? The wiring seems like it should be as straight forward as wiring can possibly be. Anything I should be looking out for?
Thanks for all your help
Definitely get a new one, do you want to wait for it to burst into flames?
And keep your new one clean, it will make it last much longer.
Use onenof these, this one in particular because it will give him a new job (they also have a volcano)
The actual prong portion rotates to accommodate any ground orientation.
If not, search "90 degree extension cord" for a lot of other options.
Edit: look at the pictures to see the other end. Not sure if thats a typical female end. That might be specific to some electronics that get fed with a female power cord.
this might be more what you need
Thank you for those links but I don't need an AC photo sensor. If anything I'd like to convert the AC lights to DC.
But based on your DC search I found this on Amazon which seems like it should work. Am I looking at the right thing?
I have one of these but there are many different ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9Y6ZFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V9W Led Class 2 Power Supply, IP44 Waterproof LED Adapter Driver Transformer for Christmas Tree, String Light, Projector Light, Lawn Lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FX489GP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_f5pEFb9K9KWHC
This looks similar to the connector you need just that they also give a transformer but it is not the same voltage conversion that you need. I assume you could use the connector from that kit.
Yes. That will work.
It would be nice to extend them or use a wago connector.
I would shrink wrap to make sure any possible exposure to a live wire is eliminated/reduced if you do pigtails or twists if you happen to not use connectors.
You could do that (although it's not recommended).
A normal power strip and a few of these would be a much better way to go with less work though.
If you want to play it 100% safe:
Grab an antistatic mat, and something like https://www.amazon.com/StaticTek-Adapter-Universal-Connection-Unbreakable/dp/B071J61CSV this. Attach both the mat and your strap to earth ground (or don't, and clip both alligator clips of mat & strap to each other. Up to you.)
Lay those ESD bags with the computer components and computer case on the mat, then open it up and you can then lay the bare computer components on the mat and assemble everything. Since everything is at the same electrical potential, no static discharges happen.
That being said - I've seen lots of people just YOLO it and clip the strap to the computer case or to earth ground and call it good. Most of the time it works out fine, cause' normally the room isn't super dry and staticy. I've done that for most of my computer builds, only fried a memory stick or two so far. I've since started using a mat :)
hello I know a normal outlet won't fit in the box, because the screw holes don't line up with anything in the box (that I've tested at the store). Additionally there are no round faceplates for round boxes that allow for an outlet in the center. So my assumption was there needs to be an outlet with an integrated cover, something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5042-Duplex-Receptacle-4-Inch/dp/B000HEHCAU/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=round+outlet+with+cover&qid=1600088839&sr=8-6
I have a plastic box though, and didn't think this would work with it.
Yes. Replace the breaker with a 15 amp and install an outlet using wire nuts and some short pigtails. This way if you ever had to swap it back it would be very easily done. You can always use wire larger than it needs to be, just not smaller. Pigtails may be required at either or both ends.
You can also purchase these if you want a more turn key solution. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ246JP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DQZtFbCG68GQC
Both the cords say 125v.
The washer cord says 7A the dryer cord says 15A.
I plugged both of them into my American (120volt) outlet and they start up and everything is fine.
My concern is if I use them for extended periods as a daily washer dryer It may fry the appliances.
Looking at washer sticker it reads: 100v / 50/60hz / 340/400W
The dryer sticker reads 100V/ 1275W / 50-60hz
Hows this transformer?
Or this one looks better? More accurate?
Thanks for the help!!
Something like this should work:
PK Power AC/DC Adapter for Budweiser Bar Light LED Lamp Beer Bar 18VDC 3A Switch Mode Power Supply Cord Cable Charger Input: 100-240V AC Worldwide Use Mains PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTGHDTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ggXqFb1GN5QG7
If the plug doesn’t fit, return it. Rinse and repeat. Or bring the light to a store that may sell cords and try to match it up yourself. I have a hardware/electronic store near me that would more than likely have a cord that would work, but not sure what you have at your disposal.
it's prolly a ground loop issue. If it's fixed via sub I guess it's fixed?
But if you want to you can get yourself a ground loop isolator to see if that fixed your issue
Thanks for the creative thinking.
I could make a hole on the other side of the wall, which is in a bedroom that doesn’t have any wallpaper issues. It would still require me to patch it up. I don’t have those skills and I’m not thrilled about paying to have it patched just to settle my OCD about light switches.
Also I do believe the wires are stapled. So running it with the current line is probably out of the question.
Part of me is thinking to leave it as is, eventually we want to redo the bathroom but that’s like 10 years away when my kids are teenagers and need a more functional bathroom where they can plug in hair dryers etc. At that point we would tear it down to the studs and redo the whole thing, then we could redo the wiring.
With that said I DO want to add a GFCI outlet there so that I do have power in the bathroom and I can GFCI protect the light switches (which currently are not). That seems like a very doable project if I replace both switches with a dual-rocker switch (like this one from Aqara) and use the 2nd gang for a GFCI receptacle. Alternately I could expand it to a 3-gang box to add a GFCI and run it in series with the switch circuits.
Cut the set in half and put one of these on the new end. You can make these sets any length you need. Much safer than covering them. It also gives a nice custom length look.
The corresponding female is HBL5269 if you want to still use the part you cut off as its own set.
Noga also has some other models that may be more suited with other attachments. They have one with a conical blade thats good for cleaning out counter sinks but haven't used it. I've seen it used on youtube and looks pretty good.
I've got the Noga brand That I really like with the angled blades that curve.
Simply Automated V3WAY-A Anywhere... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D13HSMG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I've installed these before. If you buy them you just have run power to each one and a switch leg out of one of them. They work well and are not wireless but communicate over the wire. Might be a problem to replace in 10 years but they will probably have somethung even better by then...
Overloading a breaker should cause it to trip, turning everything off. (Unless you've got a Zinsco or Federal Pacific or some other obsolete or recalled breaker box.)
Overloading a circuit (or using a long chain of extension cords) might cause the voltage to drop too low. You can measure voltage while using all your devices with tools like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Receptacle-Electrical-Klein-Tools-RT250/dp/B08QW7K1JJ/
The accuracy of a TDS meter might be affected by the power input voltage. Better to use a regulated voltage source, such as https://smile.amazon.com/Step-Down-Waterproof-Miniature-Envistia-Mall/dp/B07PNWPLRY/
The current light is: https://www.amazon.com/Ushio-3000059-CF26DE-G24q-3-2700K/dp/B004NEI718
I am not sure if there is ballast in the fixture that i need to remove in order to replace the CFL by LED or if the existing CFLs could be replaced as is with LED lights.
> It's not a "standard" part that is intended to be used on it's own.
bah, check dimensions but appears to be three pin oneway/polarized molex.
> Does it have a CSA/UL (or other) safety certification label on it?
Unlikely, given the generic Chinese branding. The one on Amazon claims to be a surge protector, with no evidence.
This style of cover plate can have the edge sliced off without looking quite as terrible, and hide any missing screws you might need. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NTCR2JC/
Eazy. Get this . glue it to the tennis or other ball, black out lights that you dont need.
Is 13 amps not enough?
Goof rings. I only learned about them this year from a co-worker, lol.
I'm sure there's cheaper options, but this is what you want to use. It's the cleanest fix, no messing around with caulk and makes future work on the lights possible. Put one on all the lights to make it match, and no one will ever know!
That would be the best way to do it and patch the difference in holes in the sheetrock. A brace similar to this
What I've done in new construction would be to cut a 2x4 or 2x6 and mount the box to it and nail it to the joists so that the box is flush with the ceiling, with the paddlefan boxes we used it was an inch and an 1/8th from the bottom of the joists. At least 3 nails on each side. Found red wire nuts were about that same size so I'd set the board on top of those
> Got it. So I wasn't misunderstanding you and you do have the water heater connected to the grid. It doesn't matter how many switches, disconnects, GFCIs, or breakers you put between the panel and the heater, it's still connected to the grid,
So, how about this idea: Install a plug on the water heater wiring harness, install a 20A 240V outlet on the wall of the water heater closet, and plug the water heater in? I could use this receptacle:
And this plug:
When I want to run off solar, I would unplug the water heater from the wall, would that mean it's no longer connected to the grid? My inverter isn't connected in any way other than through house lumber to my service panel or any part of my house's wiring. Would that be NEC compliant? I have the 2017 here, my AHJ has adopted the 2021, but I doubt there will be any changes in the section(s) that would cover this.
Hey - the answer is yes, you're looking at ~$25.
If the home you live in is built since around year 2000 [citation required], the electrical plugs in your kitchen have 240v at each receptacle. That way you can plug your toaster into the top plug, and your coffee maker into the bottom plug. Oversimplified, the duplex receptacle can be described as having two power wires: "-120 volts" and "120 volts". You probably didn't bring a Euro plug over with you, and they're hard to buy in NA (I've tried). So you're going to replace the wall socket in your kitchen with a 6-20R. Then you're going to cut off the end of your deep fryer cord, and put the wires into one of these things. That's it - it will work!
Someone is about to comment about me suggesting a 6-20 instead of a 6-15 receptacle - It doesn't matter because the breaker protects it all. Your power use is low enough that you can use either (but make sure they match). If you can't figure out if you actually have 240 v in the kitchen... then you're stuck with an electrician, which is a heck of a lot more than $25.
Standard inside wiring, small subpanel, ground rod, put all breakers on one leg, feed that leg with a 15 amp input:
The complicated part will be bonding, you will have to research the specific inverter you are using to see if it has neutral ground bonded internally, or maybe you will need to temporarily bond neutral ground in the panel (until it becomes a subpanel later). Some cheaper inverters are 60v-60v and cannot stand to have neutral ground bonded at all which will not be safe.
Some assumptions: you've bought a used dryer, based upon it only having 3 wires.
Once I read in the comments that you have a 3 wire plug, I thought of cheaper solutions: adapter
The linked adapter is for RV's; you'll have to search around for the specific adapter you're seeking.
Alternatively, you could replace the receptacle, which is probably easier than replacing the dryer cord.
Here's where to find the name of the receptacle you want. If its not a 10-30, 6-30, or L6-30; definitely check back before proceeding.
Also - notice that the wiring of a 6-30 and 10-30 are different - if you didn't notice that until I pointed it out... Electrician's are cheaper than house fires :)
Finally, note on that link, "clothes dryers" are expected to be 14-30; four wires. Just saying...
> 6-20p to 6-20r adapter
Isn't that just a 6-20 extension cord?
> 6-20r to 10-50p adapter
For this adapter to be remotely safe, it must have a 20A circuit breaker, and you must verify that the 10-50R neutral pin is equivalent to ground, i.e. it connects only to a panel where neutral/ground are appropriately bonded. This configuration "seems safe" based on my understanding of Physics, but it still violates code to repurpose the neutral pin as a ground.
The correct solution is to reduce the breaker from 50A to 20A, and replace the 10-50R with a 6-20R, assuming that the smaller breaker/receptacle are designed to accept heavy-gauge wire.
I assume you mean these, right? https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-NM94-25-Button-Connector-25-Pack/dp/B00422M1X6
If yes, I'll give those a shot before removing the box. I agree it's the best option but it's also hard because they're 100 year steel boxes which are very non-trivial to get out; and it's just for the light fixture.
I'd never heard the term "jones strip" before so I had to Google it.
I think you're talking about this?
Personally, I'd call that barrier strip.
Different type, I was thinking of this...
Which I'd also call barrier strip, which Id also guess is kind of confusing if there's different types.
>It likely another knob or locked tube - or possibly a tap in the wall with a bunch of knobs.
No, pretty much know this is the last one because it is a few inches up to the ceiling where the wire comes out again. You even see the wooden board on my picture ... it's just a few inches from there.
So my question is really if there's a good way to yank it out of this thing (or at least things that increase the odds).
> Put a telephone toner on it and follow it around…
I wasn't aware of something like this ... might be useful for future debugging. Will something like this do? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742BHJDF
You'll need a DC transformer so you don't fry it.
This one might do the trick, it even has an adaptor with a place to land the wires.
If you mount a plug behind where you want to hang it you could hide the recep in a recessed box
If you can't reasonably access the floor, one of these https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Corduct-Overfloor-Protector/dp/B000BVXVTA/ will protect the wire from damage and protect feet from tripping.
Wiremold is owned by legrand, a reputable electrical component company, so i would trust them over random amazon brands.
I recently came across one of these… I bet it would be great for heating a solid rod https://www.amazon.com/TOAUTO-Automatic-Graphite-Crucible-Furnace，DHL/dp/B0814HF9DV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3JBWLGY9SSUFA&keywords=electric+forge+kit+for+melting&qid=1660517530&sprefix=electric+forge%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1-spons&p...
Or a lot less heat but probably still enough
Do you think if I got a custom mulling rod/loggerhead like this this I could heat it up with an induction header like this but maybe space the coils out more to heat up a longer area on the iron?
Get one of these Check this out! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QW7K1JJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_Q7DH2G9C84H8J15CGVVW
Along with an electrical tester plug it into outlets find last outlet that works in circuit check that box see if there is a loose connection on hot or neutral. use electrical tester test black to white see if you get 120v if not check black to ground if you get 120v you have lost the neutral.Depending on how they wired outlets if they are plugged in the back most likely a loose connection.
If you’re into hot water that much… check this out friend:
Can supply about 100 cups of near-boiling water per hour.
Only a 15A circuit away!
Best to buy a non-lethal High Voltage Generator from amazon for $10, doing a capacitor/diode line voltage doubler is what death is made of...
But these kind of adapters are frowned upon for being used for wrong stuff. Normally the circuit is correctly sized for the dryer only and you're not supposed to be adding other stuff to it.
Basically need this but instead of the bigger 3 prong I need another of the original 4 prong
Did he just chew the plug end off the cord? Depending on how much length you have left, you could probably just get a two prong male plug.
I've used this on a bunch of telecom. Works fine.
Our house is all electric, and runs about $350 in winter and $300 in summer.
Last year we lost power for four days and ran on a whole house generator, burning $300 in propane every day. But it was dead winter and worth it.
Water heater is second to the heat/ac in usage. I use this. https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08G37ML2R
Related question. Not an electrician. I've worked with these wafer led style lights a few times and have a hard time getting the included box to close if there is much more than 2 to 3 inches of wire in there, is there a better solution? So far my strategy has been to try to leave extra slack in the run so that the clamp could be moved if it ever needed to be.
That adapter is unconscionable. Despicable that Amazon would sell them. NEMA plug designs have different blade configurations for safety purposes.
So no. Don’t do it. Just because some unscrupulous asshole sells an adapter to make it fit, doesn’t mean that it is safe.
I would suggest that you use something like this box extender or you can go the difficult route and install deep retrofit boxes post drywall.
Pick your poison, but I’d go with option #1 if were me.
Where’s your place?
Here’s a USA listing: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1281-W-15-Amp-277-Volt-Single-Pole/dp/B003AUK07K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=26OOKSFPG5T4P&keywords=leviton+1281&qid=1659362248&sprefix=leviton+1281%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-2
I did forget to add that if my usage guess is correct some of those water booster pumps are really low wattage. Here’s an American one on Amazon 90w at 110v. (Why 110 and not 120 I don’t know), at 230v it would be half that.
You’re basically wrong. OP stated the ratings of his switch elsewhere in this thread and his intended usage, I wouldn’t use the switch for the purpose, but he was within its ratings.
Here’s a similar switch on Amazon where the ratings are clearly visible also look around your house, it took me 20 seconds to find a similar rocker style switch in the handle of a Dirt Devil vacuum that draws 8amps at 120v.
It’s not the style of the switch, it’s because OP said it doesn’t fit in a switch plate for his country.
One more point, I’ve been to both India and Mexico where standards are lax compared to US and Canada. In other countries people don’t use such standardized products to comply with code like we do here in North America.
So you substituted this:
For the original 120v halogen globe as specified on the sticker
The LED light is a 12V device, it's only meant for 12 volts, not 120 volts.
That's why LED light popped.
Well, I'm trying not to damage it in case this whole project goes to hell and I have to send it back. This is called [Univeral Garage Door 2 Conductor Bell Wire(https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Conductor-Control-Station-Genie/dp/B0149ILQ10). Does that seem like a reasonable thing to try?
ALITOVE 24V 1A 24W DC Power Supply Adapter 100~240V AC to DC 24 Volt 1 Amp Converter 24 vdc 1000mA 800mA 600mA 400mA 200mA with 5.5mm x 2.5mm 2.1mm Plug for LED Strip Light CCTV Camera DC Pump
OK got it! I can do that. When you say the cord needs to be CFGI protected would it be sufficient if i get one of these between the cord plug and the indoor outlet?
By "9V lithium", do you mean one of these?: https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-2-Count/dp/B01684J7P0
You don't have to worry about overdischarge if the battery isn't rechargeable, but this seems rather pointless because the battery will be dead in minutes.
Thanks for the reply. These are the TEC's I'm interested in testing: https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Heatsink-Cooling/dp/B01IT8SAZG/ref=sr\_1\_9?keywords=thermoelectric+cooler&qid=1658515833&sr=8-9
Sorry, forgot to say it's the output voltage from UPS that's being reported as high when connected to the NAS. Everything connected to the UPS right now has that 100V-240V range.
Any reason for me to get anything better than something like this $10 from amazon?
A 12V or 24V battery charger like this one can handle a voltage drop down to 70V AC.
Use that to charge a buffer battery, and then power the RV with a sine wave inverter.
As mentioned, I'm trying to re-wire or house my dryer and I'm lost.
Can I just buy this adapter, plug it in, and run?
If not, what cable do I need to re-wire this to a 4 prong? Where / what is the ground wire? Every instruction I see / read has a green cable and I have no green cable.