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Just an FYI those panels are fire hazards. I would recommend a whole panel replacement. However they do make replacement breakers. I would also recommend hiring an electrician to enter the panel. There may be other issues inside.
Yeah they make switch covers that prevent you from turning the switch off. They have magnetic ones and also ones that just screw in replacing the existing screws. Here's a link for one on Amazon they got them for decora style to, but you can pick one at any hardware store. switch Cover
get a 120volt coil contactor. this one supports a 30amp load at voltages up to 600 https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-C25BNB230A-Definite-Contactor-Inductive/dp/B008KNANXI
use a standard off the shelf wifi outlet to sent power to the contactor.
Could be the transformer feeding door bell have out and fried. If you have access to a multimeter check it for power.
It should look close to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQY88I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P600477Y9EPVC4PS01XY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This might be what you're looking for.
You need an adapter.
You'll have to cut the wires coming out of the motor and terminate them in the end piece.
>is there a product that i can plug inbetween the light and the socket that can be used to turn it off or on.
or motion sensing control for the light, and bypass or leave the switch always on.
You’ll need to get your hands on one to figure out the connector style. Can’t tell from pictures.
Then just order a 7.4vdc power supply with at least 2amp rating.
Like this
You might be able to find a cheaper one, but here is an adapter on Amazon which is made for that purpose.
edit: It has a built-in 15 amp fuse so the range itself is protected, and the wire from the receptacle to the breaker box can already handle the 40amp breaker. This reddit post has more info.
With it being cloth wire I’d personally cut out the siding around the existing box and buy a weatherproof extension ring. I’d rather have that wire stay enclosed inside a box instead of being open to the vinyl.
You can get a basic multimeter for almost literally a couple of bucks on Amazon. I would suggest grab a cheap one and upgrade if you find it lacking.
I've used the one linked below for my home electrical wiring needs for a few years now. Mostly just making certain I know which line is hot and which is load. :)
There are timers that let you pick which parts of a 24 hr cycle the power will be on... Get one of these and you can select any custom.interval by just picking which segments are up and down. It's not just a button but is the simplest solution i know of.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00366JSNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_O7wbGb6Z3A4CJ
The picture shows 2 GFCI's but these covers include inserts to facilitate just about any configuration. A switch and duplex or GFCI isn't uncommon.
The comment above is correct. Under the current cover is just a standard switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKB3H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KSegFbB6XS22M
I’ve purchased these generic versions for two different chairs my parents had after their puppy chewed the old ones. They work great years later.
IKOCO Lift Chair Power Recliner AC/DC Switching Power Supply Transformer + Power Cord … https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AXG9TQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_aWROBb3B717Y7
Is this one with the burr-grinder or a blade grinder? I've seen reports of (carefully) manually spinning the blades when attached sometimes does magic to eliminate the "hum, no grind" issue.
Otherwise, it should still work as a drip coffeemaker if you purchase ground coffee or have another means to turn your beans into grounds.
You can get a bluetooth or wifi controller that integrates with an app through an arduino at adafruit.
Have that control a relay that can handle the voltage and current.
You can check sites like adafruit or sparkfun. They usually have good step by step guides. But this is more for embedded systems and that might be more a advanced than you want.
Check this as well, more simple solution: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F1FYF7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MZ117R6XGCSMWQ8EN528?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is correct. Not sure why you're getting downvoted. Example
Then there’s this:
Klein Tools ET310 AC Circuit Breaker Finder with Integrated GFCI Outlet Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FXGFV1PN82409WFXHEM2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Unless you’re looking to do minor construction and patch the wall you’re stuck with a two gang box.
You can get a - 1 S / 1 Blank - plate if you want and ditch that unused switch like this
If it is internal to the motor it's probably a thermal protection cut off. Some are auto reset, some are not. Typical temperature range is 80 degrees - 130 degrees C. You can buy a box of generic thermal fuses pretty cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719DHV9P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First you should measure the motors amp draw (after jumping out the safety device.) and compare it to the nameplate value. If it is drawing too much power you likely have either bad bearings or a short in the windings and that is the reason the safety device failed.
MoCA Is the answer - basically it allows you to run Ethernet over a coax cable, and have it coexist
You need a MoCA adapter at each end https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KV2YYL/
Different versions (1.0, 2.0, 2.5 or 3) will be dictated by the networking speed you need
I’m sure 825watt is only going to be a peak power rating (not locked rotor though) but their truck battery almost certainly can’t provide the necessary 70a. in fact the alternator probably can’t either.
I get the feeling Op is going to be breaking things
Op should consider a manual trailer dolly
I just took a sheet of paper and wrote everything on that and taped it to the inside of the door lol but you can also get these if you want: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785PYVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZPRPDZA519PFV53ECVMB
I added a front pic of the breaker. Is this one from amazon a match? The only difference I see on the label is the Hz rating on the existing one says 50/60 Hz and the amazon says 60 Hz.
I appreciate the feedback.
As per the title my Siemens circuit breaker is Type QAF but the one I bought is type QAF2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8BVJ9I
The new circuit breaker is smaller than the QAF one but it looks like all the connection points are the same.
Is the new one a proper replacement for the existing breaker? Hope somebody can help.
You could always get a smart switch, and let it work off of that. (Batteries remote as the second switch)
To get the desired effect, without running more wire.
This is a rather unique problem. Usually when people break the screw holes I would recommend these G-clips which work great in my experience. But you've blocked the hole entirely, so you're pretty much going to have to replace the box.
Replacing the box isn't hard, it's just a pain in the ass if you don't have enough slack on the Romex to pull it out of the integrated cable connectors and put it back in.
Why not get an Emporia Smart Home Energy monitor. I can measure consumption at each circuit real-time or over a period of time. I can also setup notification triggers as needed.
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TX3M6BED1038R6JT8RR8
It is supposed to have fuses, such as (I believe) these:
https://www.amazon.ca/30-Amp-Cartridge-2-Pack-Femule-54225/dp/B0074RHROO/
If you wanted a non-fuseable one, https://www.amazon.ca/Siemens-WN2060-Disconnect-60Amp-Non-fused/dp/B0052MAR1I/
Thanks. They use 0.552 watts each on high so I'm going to order a 2.5 amp switch. From what I've read online, the variable switches (dials, not the 3 or 4 level switches) seem to cause humming in the fans.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0887NK82S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_QWOZFbHQDT2XE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yaaa I'm thinking I'm going to go that route. Seems like a lot more work, but I really want to update those lights. I believe it's a 100mm hole but I'll have to double check when I go ahead and drop the current light fixture out. So if I'm understanding you correctly, something like in the link below should work fine as long I get one that fits the holes in my ceiling? The wiring seems like it should be as straight forward as wiring can possibly be. Anything I should be looking out for?
Thanks for all your help
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ND1L263/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_VcHQFb3HPV6NP
Definitely get a new one, do you want to wait for it to burst into flames?
And keep your new one clean, it will make it last much longer.
Use onenof these, this one in particular because it will give him a new job (they also have a volcano)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICPU7S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_mudQFbTZB6ZKG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The actual prong portion rotates to accommodate any ground orientation.
If not, search "90 degree extension cord" for a lot of other options.
Edit: look at the pictures to see the other end. Not sure if thats a typical female end. That might be specific to some electronics that get fed with a female power cord.
Thank you for those links but I don't need an AC photo sensor. If anything I'd like to convert the AC lights to DC.
But based on your DC search I found this on Amazon which seems like it should work. Am I looking at the right thing? https://smile.amazon.com/Pack-Photocell-Switch-Photoswitch-Sensor/dp/B01M1O3C1V/
I have one of these but there are many different ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9Y6ZFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V9W Led Class 2 Power Supply, IP44 Waterproof LED Adapter Driver Transformer for Christmas Tree, String Light, Projector Light, Lawn Lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FX489GP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_f5pEFb9K9KWHC
This looks similar to the connector you need just that they also give a transformer but it is not the same voltage conversion that you need. I assume you could use the connector from that kit.
Yes. That will work.
It would be nice to extend them or use a wago connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Assortment-Splicing-Electrical-Stranded/dp/B07NPGV7G2
I would shrink wrap to make sure any possible exposure to a live wire is eliminated/reduced if you do pigtails or twists if you happen to not use connectors.
You could do that (although it's not recommended).
A normal power strip and a few of these would be a much better way to go with less work though.
If you want to play it 100% safe:
Grab an antistatic mat, and something like https://www.amazon.com/StaticTek-Adapter-Universal-Connection-Unbreakable/dp/B071J61CSV this. Attach both the mat and your strap to earth ground (or don't, and clip both alligator clips of mat & strap to each other. Up to you.)
Lay those ESD bags with the computer components and computer case on the mat, then open it up and you can then lay the bare computer components on the mat and assemble everything. Since everything is at the same electrical potential, no static discharges happen.
​
That being said - I've seen lots of people just YOLO it and clip the strap to the computer case or to earth ground and call it good. Most of the time it works out fine, cause' normally the room isn't super dry and staticy. I've done that for most of my computer builds, only fried a memory stick or two so far. I've since started using a mat :)
hello I know a normal outlet won't fit in the box, because the screw holes don't line up with anything in the box (that I've tested at the store). Additionally there are no round faceplates for round boxes that allow for an outlet in the center. So my assumption was there needs to be an outlet with an integrated cover, something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5042-Duplex-Receptacle-4-Inch/dp/B000HEHCAU/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=round+outlet+with+cover&qid=1600088839&sr=8-6
I have a plastic box though, and didn't think this would work with it.
Yes. Replace the breaker with a 15 amp and install an outlet using wire nuts and some short pigtails. This way if you ever had to swap it back it would be very easily done. You can always use wire larger than it needs to be, just not smaller. Pigtails may be required at either or both ends.
You can also purchase these if you want a more turn key solution. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ246JP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DQZtFbCG68GQC
Both the cords say 125v.
The washer cord says 7A the dryer cord says 15A.
I plugged both of them into my American (120volt) outlet and they start up and everything is fine.
My concern is if I use them for extended periods as a daily washer dryer It may fry the appliances.
Looking at washer sticker it reads: 100v / 50/60hz / 340/400W
The dryer sticker reads 100V/ 1275W / 50-60hz
Hows this transformer? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLYFNU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3MUsFb4ZE4XMP
Or this one looks better? More accurate? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CY8HDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FWUsFbP8NDKH3
Thanks for the help!!
Something like this should work:
PK Power AC/DC Adapter for Budweiser Bar Light LED Lamp Beer Bar 18VDC 3A Switch Mode Power Supply Cord Cable Charger Input: 100-240V AC Worldwide Use Mains PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTGHDTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ggXqFb1GN5QG7
If the plug doesn’t fit, return it. Rinse and repeat. Or bring the light to a store that may sell cords and try to match it up yourself. I have a hardware/electronic store near me that would more than likely have a cord that would work, but not sure what you have at your disposal.
it's prolly a ground loop issue. If it's fixed via sub I guess it's fixed?
But if you want to you can get yourself a ground loop isolator to see if that fixed your issue
amazon(dot)com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
Thanks for the creative thinking.
I could make a hole on the other side of the wall, which is in a bedroom that doesn’t have any wallpaper issues. It would still require me to patch it up. I don’t have those skills and I’m not thrilled about paying to have it patched just to settle my OCD about light switches.
Also I do believe the wires are stapled. So running it with the current line is probably out of the question.
Part of me is thinking to leave it as is, eventually we want to redo the bathroom but that’s like 10 years away when my kids are teenagers and need a more functional bathroom where they can plug in hair dryers etc. At that point we would tear it down to the studs and redo the whole thing, then we could redo the wiring.
With that said I DO want to add a GFCI outlet there so that I do have power in the bathroom and I can GFCI protect the light switches (which currently are not). That seems like a very doable project if I replace both switches with a dual-rocker switch (like this one from Aqara) and use the 2nd gang for a GFCI receptacle. Alternately I could expand it to a 3-gang box to add a GFCI and run it in series with the switch circuits.
Cut the set in half and put one of these on the new end. You can make these sets any length you need. Much safer than covering them. It also gives a nice custom length look.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016X3UFTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_emshFbHH9AYZH
The corresponding female is HBL5269 if you want to still use the part you cut off as its own set.
Noga also has some other models that may be more suited with other attachments. They have one with a conical blade thats good for cleaning out counter sinks but haven't used it. I've seen it used on youtube and looks pretty good.
I've got the Noga brand That I really like with the angled blades that curve.
Simply Automated V3WAY-A Anywhere... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D13HSMG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I've installed these before. If you buy them you just have run power to each one and a switch leg out of one of them. They work well and are not wireless but communicate over the wire. Might be a problem to replace in 10 years but they will probably have somethung even better by then...
Your ring looks like it is too tight. Can you get that off easily?
Also, instead of burning your house down, buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Foot-Indoor-Extension-Footswitch/dp/B00QMIQMLA/ or get a smart outlet like others have said.
As eaglescout noted, use something like these, Amico downlights. Less than $8 each, very bright, very easy to install, look great, dimmable, and you can set them at 3 different color temperatures. You can also get them with 5 settings, and in a 4 inch size. I just installed 14 of these to replace old, non-IC can lights. Now I burn 12 watts each vs 65 each, and I have lots of insulation over top of them in the attic. You just need to remove your old ceiling recessed box, cut a 6-1/4:hole in your ceiling, land your wires in the new light junction box (they even provide the wire connectors), connect the low voltage cord from the junction to the light, and install the light in the hole. You might be able to borrow a 6-1/4" (or 6-1/2) inch hole saw. Or, if you are doing a lot of these lights, buy one. Be warned, you may also want to install a compatible dimmer switch. Easy to do as well. I used a Lutron Diva dimmer. You could also go with a smart dimmer.
Or
"Country of origin" is just where it's manufactured, and knowing how big Leviton is I bet there are multiple manufacturers of this product around the world. CoI is important in some countries due to things like import restrictions and tariffs, so if you're thinking of buying these in one of those countries then knowing CoI is important. If you really want to get weird, you can get a combo 120V/240V duplex receptacle:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-16292-W-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B000U39RXI
I doubt it is for AC power, might be a DC input for a converter.
I'd just get a DC converter cut off the plug and solder the wires to the battery terminals.
I'm referring to these type of lights. Driver is in the junction box. Low voltage from their. LED ceiling light
I wired it as the manufacturer suggested.
In the last picture on the listing, it shows the same wiring diagram that was included with the switches.
The only thing that I did “different” was I put a blade fuse holder in the + terminal connection and put in a 15a fuse. To my understanding, even turning the switch on with nothing connected shouldn’t blow a 15a fuse immediately. So I’m trying to find what I did wrong or where my short is.
Just found this comment. I have been using a 16ga cord for a while to run my whole laptop setup which includes the laptop, huge monitor and external speakers. I am guessing something like this would be best: https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Indoor-Outdoor-Black-Extension/dp/B07KKLGBH2/ref=sr_1_18?crid=3SX88DQ7WLSM9&keywords=12+gauge+extension+cord+6+feet&qid=1670390536&sprefix=12+gauge+extension+cord+6+feet%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-18
Did not even know of the danger. Thank you!
Wagos are dirt cheap.
Replace them every 3rd time or so.
Or just replace them with some off the shelf connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Twippo-Automotive-Electrical-Connectors-Waterproof/dp/B09HV4F6H5
To clarify, this is what I'm talking about not an actual GFCI outlet in the wall.
The wall outlet is not getting hot, just the adaptor. It's around the light area in the top middle, not the part I have it plugged into. Do you think my outlet is good?
$240 a year to open a garage once a week during summer for my zero turn mower seems like a waste of money. I keep my car parked in the car port so I don't use garage for anything else other than storage and my mower. In addition on my house that is 40 feet away I pay an additional $20 a month connection fee, and $10 a month for the street light. Then I actually have to pay for the usage of power. If I can get the garage figured out I might do a little solar panel for a light fixture as well.
I found a 12v solar panel for $34
I found a 12v Battery for garage door is $17 that seems to need replacement every 2 years.
Are these not viable options for a garage door? What else will I need?
So to route a line from my house I would have to go under my driveway or break up part of my driveway, which is not something I intend to do anytime soon. This might happen in the future if I start utilizing my garage as an actual shop.
Looks like a 4-pin mini DIN or 4-pin DIN depending on the scale, (no banana in photos).
I've got a few old devices that use a 4-pin mini DIN for power supplies that need both +12v & +5v, with a pinout like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Accessory-USA-4-Pin-Adapter-LaCie/dp/B074353R76/ This was common for external disk drives.
Looks like you could rig a replacement for this by two +15v power supplies. Use one supply as labelled (GND and +15V), and connect a second supply with +15v of the second supply to GND of the first supply, and GND of the second supply to -15V.
That works too. I have just been using receptacle spacers though. The little rubber/plastic pieces that you stack under the mounting screws.
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSP-24-Receptacle-Spacers/dp/B00ATOYNA0
I see, this is the transformer I bought. (I guess I'll return it)
https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B098749JP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think the breaker is 20v but still not enough since the plug is 15v.
I'll ask to installa a new breaker and a socket too I guess
There are a ton available on amazon, and even home depot, that don't have a fuse. The trick is finding ones that have the fuse. I found these that might work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Male-Plug-fuse-SPT-2-Green/dp/B08N2SLWVC/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_14?crid=3D70O75DZ8LC9&keywords=replacement+electrical+plugs+%22with+fuse%22&qid=1669685959&sprefix=replacement+electrical+plugs+with+fuse%2Caps%2C321&...
These days Cherry makes a lot of options with different feel. People even buy testers to figure out the feel and response they want. https://www.amazon.com/Griarrac-Mechanical-Keyboard-Sampler-Testing/dp/B07QZNNB16/ref=asc_df_B07QZNNB16/
This looks like a RGB LED strip cable https://smile.amazon.com/iCreating-Connector-Conductor-Controller-Solderless/dp/B074G48LWQ
You can do it, but you would have to buy a 4.5 volt DC power supply. You can use the power supply I have listed below. They have a plug where you can inset 2 wires. It's the bottom one with the green head. Dial it to 4.5 volts, and you're good to go.
I had these on hand, so that’s what went in.
https://www.amazon.ca/Eaton-Resistant-Decorator-Receptacle-125-Volt/dp/B001CE95O0
If I have another failure I’ll be sure to upgrade the outlet next time around.
So just to clarify, if I bought 2 surge protects of 2amp maxes and plugged in 4 devices each , could I plug both of the surge protector into an outlet like the one in the picture : https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNT1-W-SmartlockPro-Non-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B013OVCB58/ref=asc_df_B013OVCB58/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216506979975&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14996504536991901926&hvpone=&...
Just want to make sure I understand correctly
Ok, what do you think of this one? It doesn't seem the BEST, but, there is a 3D printed mount available for my rig:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Protector-Charging/dp/B06XWJGL7C
I would plug into here and then plug this directly into the wall, no daisy chain.
What do you think of this one? It doesn't seem the BEST, but, there is a 3D printed mount available for my rig:
Incompatible with devices like this one, though: https://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36038-Protector-Rotating/dp/B00ZKSTU9O
Random example. The colored rings indicating the size of wire is a hot-melt glue. Melt the center on overlapping wires, and seal the ends with a heat gun around 550°F.
I used these for the first time and so far so good: SUNVIE Fastlock2 Low Voltage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JVSTD6M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I live near n the Los Angeles area so rain is not much of an issue. We did have one heavy rain and one smaller rainfall since I installed my new lights using these connectors. I also have a sprinkler system in use.
I did use a bit of electrical tape to better secure each connector.
I did start off by saying it should be safe if you get a decent quality one.
But in general it's better not to use any adapter if you have the option of avoiding it. Using one here means you have the weight of a larger 16 A plug and an adapter when you could just put a 6 A plug directly into your UPS. A 16 A adapter may also block access to the adjacent 6 A socket, though that migh not worry you if you only have the PC to connect. 6 A to IEC leads are readily available to you random example.
If you really need to know wire sizes or might run into this again Burndy makes a wire mic tha will give you the size for solid or stranded. https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.ca/Burndy-591200-Wiremike-Measuring-Device/dp/B01HTZHWEA&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjUk8zj55b7AhVTm4kEHUWmAssQFnoECAoQAg&usg=AOvVaw2wH2lldajlyoVMR7NdCHSc
What do you think about this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093QF2WKB/?tag=akfnfal-20
I read on Amazon from a customer said the pump was 7amps. So if I get this one that should work, right? I kinda like these converters since they are (allegedly) Water proof.
looks great thats usable here in the usa, it looks like this is the right adapter maybe
You're talking about this thing right? I didn't even know this was a thing! Thank you for your help!
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-101-P-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84
Haha, it actually doesn't look that bad once everything is installed. Here's the light fixture:
These are the actual lights. sylvania lights
It's a crimper with multiple dies: https://smile.amazon.com/HKS-Ratcheting-Crimping-Tool-Non-Insulated/dp/B091Q5YKZT
The non-contact tester was just to identify breakers a while back. I used a receptacle tester to confirm the outlet's powered up. Should've specified, my bad
I tested power off at the main breaker with a multimeter. At the outlet, I used a receptacle tester (something like this) and with the mains cut off it stayed lit, and anything else I plugged into it obviously worked.
You’d have to check them but it’s quite likely all of your adaptors (“wall warts” as some people call them) produce a different output voltage for their specific device. For most situations it wouldn’t be practical to design and build a custom power transformer/rectifier to power them all.
There are products like this “widely spaced power strip” that might at least help you keep things better organized? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNWKS3S/
Disclaimer: I worry about answering these questions because they often lead into the world of poor quality online adapters that violate NEMA standards and/or electrical code.
If you have a 4-prong dryer receptacle (NEMA 14-30R) fed by 4-wire cable to a 30A 2-pole breaker, it’s possible to safely adapt this to an RV NEMA TT-30R. Here is an example, but it’s not UL listed which is a deal-breaker for me.
BTW, you cannot safely adapt if you only have a 3-prong dryer receptacle (NEMA 10-30R) because your RV requires both a neutral and a ground, which a 3-wire dryer connection lacks.
​
Are these line voltage (120V) or low voltage (12V or 24V) smoke detectors?
Low voltage smoke detectors are powered from an alarm box, which is usually powered from a transformer and one or more batteries. Check whether the alarm box is powered.
If they are line voltage or were powered in the past, the most likely failure is a bad/intermittent wire connection.
Trace the power wire with an RF signal generator and RF signal tracker, something like: https://smile.amazon.com/Electrical-Wire-Tracer-Continuity-Automotive/dp/B08L6NYQYK
How many volts is your LED neon? First you need to make sure it and find a proper adapter that fits it. If it's a 12V neon sign, I recomand this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099Z4DZFS?ref=myi\_title\_dp