What are /r/fabrication's favorite Products & Services?

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Chicago bolt. https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Assorted-Leather-Fillister-Binding/dp/B08XYP4FDX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Chicago+bolt&qid=1625799301&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEQUtOSVA1UkxVN04mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9Q...

This is by far the best I have found, it's a solvent like WO #4 and I have never experienced fogging from it. You really shouldn't over clamp when using solvents especially if you want a perfectly clear mating face, also don't use them in the cold

Really? I fabricator near me said it’s a $400 job max

he said All you have to do is cut off the front roller and weld it horizontal. He even said if I can find a saw just buy 2 place them together then cut off the front. he Said basically any bike trainer will due https://www.amazon.com/ROCK-BROS-Adjustable-Foldable-Resistance/dp/B083QFHVBQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3L60IAIL7A7CT&keywords=Bike%2Broller&qid=1663934986&sprefix=bike%2Broller%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.304cacc1-b508-45fb-a37f-a2c47c48c32f&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVERZWEhRR0RMSUhDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDQzMTMzQ0RORFpBT0JKV1VGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMzMwMDMzR0RXQkM1S0xZSjdLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1.

as for the platform he said he wouldn’t even charge. He said u can buy the base, it’s just apiece of wood and hD sells handrails. It’s as easy as screwing handrails to the board. Add grip tape for $20 and done. He was exposing most of the cost is shipping and he was right, it’s like $600 with $700 shipping

I’m a nerd for hardware and fasteners. If you’re into that Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook has some good info. Carroll Smith’s books are pretty good in general for racecar stuff. I realize that’s a pretty niche area of fabrication.

This

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08287HSJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works great. I've cut 3/8" plate like cutting plywood.

Convert to decimals (divide the fraction ) and have a handy CHART on the wall that shows what the fraction of your decimal is .

I just bought this one a few months back.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV7WW0?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

It works well. Astro does make quality stuff, even though it seems like a hybrid astro tool (ONYX). You need some good air pressure to get the flange defined. Only thing I'm not sure about is the hole puncher seems to place the hole very near the edge of the panel. Maybe this is by design, but I would like it inboard a bit more. You can always drill those by hand.

Check places that supply leather and leather tools, they usually have a large assortment of buckles. This isnt the thing youre going to walk into a fab shop and ask for a half dozen of they would charge you a fortune, blacksmith maybe but expensive.

Or start with this and add the strap.

https://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Free-Bottle-Opener-Buckle/dp/B07QPQ95LR

I own a Hobart Handler 190. I had to wire up an outlet for it in my garage and add a breaker, etc., which was a bit of a pain to deal with but I'm happy I did it because it's a nice welder. I only do FCAW with it, but it can do MIG, too. For me, it's way overboard but I bought it thinking that it would be nice to have the power and never need all of it. It would never work for auto stuff unless you're needing frame work done. It burns through almost anything thinner than 18g. I've done some stuff as small as 20 and 22, but it looked horrid. But bear in mind that was with FCAW. Using MIG would probably have better results.

In retrospect, I almost wish I would've started with TIG and have plans on buying this. I've heard good things about Primeweld, so I'm going to give them a try for my first TIG machine.

This what I have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08287HSJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's pretty much just a circular saw with a special blade. I can easily get an old table saw with a 2hp motor. I have a fresh rebuilt 6hp 220v motor sitting under the bench. That would probable be enough. :)

The consensus is that it'll probably kill me, so I'm most likely going to figure out something else. Right now I cut down sheets with this saw, the plasma, or a hand-help air shear. Then I true up the cuts with either the shear or the bandsaw depending on thickness. I wanted to eliminate the first step, but I think I'll trade not injuring myself for a bit more production time. Maybe I can balance hospital bills with the cost of a CNC plas table.

What I'm trying to make is these: UNISTRUT Genuine P2950-EG 4 Wheel Trolley Assembly for use with P1000, P1001, P5000, P5001, P5500, P5501 and All 1-5/8" or Taller Strut Channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN9UA0S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_X42P45EE0WYRV25CX44H

I was thinking that the shaft would wander and catch the side of the guide rail if I didn't secure the bearings to it. Ultimately I thought maybe I would just go out and get a cheap welder from Harbor Freight and teach myself how to weld, however that would make the bearings non serviceable.

Back to the point though, the reason why I brought that up is when I looked up the retainers there were several different styles and I was wondering if you had one particular one in mind that you think would be good for this application?

I prefer air powered snipping tools for this, personally. I have more control than I do with a cutoff wheel. Then I can use other tools (files, a dremel, etc) to smooth out the edges od the shapes.

I just went through this. The biggest thing I learned was how many lumens (how much brightness) I needed. For a 1.5 car garage space with high ceilings and (dark) barn wood walls, I found that 12 LED strips each 48" long and about 2000 lumens each was enough.

I used these ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNPL2VC/ I rolled the dice and got them used. No issues.

Limited-time deal: Sunco Lighting 6 Pack LED Utility Shop Light, 4 FT, Linkable Integrated Fixture, 40W=260W, 6000K Daylight Deluxe, 4100 LM, Frosted Lens, Surface/Suspension Mount, Pull Chain, Garage - ETL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LHCB956/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_3ETRKM2XVYA3PNAW1NFG?psc=1

It was like these, but looks like price increased

It has brackets on the 4 corners like these. Doesn’t move around on me at all and doubles as a seat if anyone is with me

I try not to use die grinder unless it is completely necessary. I use the hell out of hand held belt sanders. buy high quality belts for them and they will grind away metal really well.

What are you connecting to on the back of the panel?
Is the reason cleats are not an option because you'll see them through the mesh?

My first thought would be an angle iron mounted to the wall that would allow the panels to sit flush the wall and have a screw/bolt/pin at top and bottom to prevent it from coming away from the wall.

Not sure on the weight of these, but I might suggest this type of anchor.

Sorry to ask you one more question but could I use a tool like this https://www.amazon.ca/Riveter-Riveting-Setting-System-M3-m12/dp/B00R1FYLWU to remove the riv nut on the defects instead of buying a non 12 V drill?

Also, which rivnuts should I buy and prefered material?

So if I understand correctly, you want to attach a winch to one of these? https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45030-Trailer-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B000P3WW12?ref_=Oct_s9_apbd_oup_hd_bw_b141yn&pf_rd_r=22JMKK6ZNNBXA2BZES2Q&pf_rd_p=85a60357-a350-5582-a722-5320d3d39362&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=15737261

I'd cut the front off it, weld a plate to the front (drill the holed before welding) and you're set. In terms of making sure it's strong enough, trust the professionals. It will likely seem expensive, but this wouldn't be the time to go for the lowest bidder.

So mine is not the best process but was most economic based on materials I already had. The best method ive seen would be with a furnace or propane foundry. What I do is use a charcoal starter as my foundry with combination of lump charcoal on the bottom and arpund the crucible, I use a heat gun for supplying my oxygen, you can use a hair dryer but I wasnt going to use my wifes. I use a fire extinguisher that I cut in half I believe amazon has crucibles for 30 bucks but as long as what your melting doesnt exceed the temp of your crucible than you'll be fine, once I have melted cans or anything I find small enough to fit in the crucible I use thick leather gloves and pliers to grab the crucible and pour into ingot molds the mold I used is in the link be sure to give it ample time to cool down, I suppose once you had a good supply of ingots you could clean out the crucible add your ingots and pour it into molds, you could also use kenetic sands for molds as its very shapeable and it doesnt melt or burn hope this helpsmold link

I worked at a commercial kitchen hood manufacturing company and we used a product very similar to this to put the grain back into what we would grind on.

Walter 07J446 COOLCUT Linear Finishing Flap Abrasive Drum - 60 Grit, 4-1/4 in. Surface Finishing Drum. Finishing Products and Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O9J5Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i7HYCbRJPA62Y

Thanks! I'm struggling a little figuring out exactly what you're referring to on google, though -- are we talking about a "multi-finishing wheel"? Or something else? I can't seem to find anything in green...

That's pretty slick, 90 angle clamps have always sufficed for me, but they aren't going to be cheaper that that set-up, I suppose.

The idea with the upside down jigsaw held in the vice would be to give me more control of the workpiece and greater visibility of the cutting area, almost like a tabletop saw. I take it this would be a bad idea.