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TL;DR - What you need for the current crop of infrared black and white films is an "R72" filter.

Hey, i'm currently shooting an infrared project for my photography degree.

True infrared films are now extinct and what we are left with are "superpanchromatical" black and white films like rollei superpan, rollei infrared, ilford sfx. These can access the "near-infrared" part of the spectrum just out of reach of the human eye.

^((Side-note: rollei superpan and retro 80s are) ^(great) ^(normal black and white films))

When I was assembling a kit to do infrared trichrome photography (see attic darkroom's youtube channel), I didn't check the filter cutoffs and went for another infrared filter (a Lee Polyester 87C). When I pulled my film out of the tank there was nothing on the infrared frames. I checked the cutoffs and that filter's frequency range started at wavelengths too long to be picked up by any of the films available today.

I ordered a Hoya R72 and it worked immediately. My Canon EOS 30 meters perfectly straight through it, giving 100% perfectly exposed negatives so far. I got a large 67mm one for £55 ($66) though im sure you could get a smaller one for cheaper from a local reseller.

If you spot a deal on a different brand, just make sure the cutoff isn't higher than about 720nm.

Send me a message if you want any more info about this stuff!

All film has a rated iso on it, color plus is 200. you need a meter to calculate the ideal shutter speed and fstop. You can not change the iso of the film, although you can push and pull. And develop for a higher iso, this has to be factored in for every shot. If your camera does not have a built in light meter there are apps at least on Android that seem to do an ok job https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.willblaschko.android.lightmeterv2.free

Shot 4 rolls of Kodak Portra 400 Color Print 35mm Film on my Canon AE-1 and they all turned out like this. I've been using this camera since 2020 and never had a single issue. This was my first time buying this film (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001ZVXJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so my gut says its that.

Completely impossible. Canon EF lenses are fully electronic and require an electrical signal from the camera to control the aperture. They won't even work or adapt to Canon's own, older FD mount cameras, let alone one from an relatively obscure (though awesome) brand. No such adapter exists, and none will likely ever exist, unfortunately.

Now, Topcon lenses on a newer mirrorless camera, like an EOS R, that can easily be done, but not the other way around.

Something to keep in mind about adapting lenses: old lenses can usually be adapted to newer cameras, specially mirrorless. Modern lenses can usually never be adapted to older cameras.

Only benefit that occurs to me is the incident readings that are preferred in very contrasty scenes. The internal meter will either average the scene, give the center a bias or --like the case of more recent cameras- use a smart matrix. The incident meter will read the light reaching the scene, not the scene per se.
Did you know you can use your phone camera/s as a very advanced light meter? In my Android phone I use one that, while not being free it's the best I've found.Just $2 and the name (roll drum) is LightMeter, surprise!

This page has some good info...

At home - https://www.amazon.com/Plustek-OpticFilm-8200i-SE-Scanner/dp/B008ASJ2Z8

@ $20/roll it would soon pay for itself if you take a reasonable number of photos. It gives you control over the scanning process, but you have to do the scanning yourself.

Camera Light Seal Foam 250 X 125 X 1.0mm(9.84 X 4.92 X 0.03 in) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014Z09D8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0MPWDHFRVYKJX74V9D04?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can probably use this one. Seems the same as the canon Ae-1. I just replaced mine a few days ago. Have to find out how they come out after I send in my rolls.

1.5mm should work.

its not an automatic lens, its a 100% manual lens. (7artisans 25mm)

7artisans 25mm F1.8 APS-C Manual Focus Fixed Lens Compatible with Fujifilm Fuji Cameras X-A1 X-A10 X-A2 X-A3 X-at X-M1 XM2 X-T1 X-T10 X-T2 X-T20 X-Pro1 X-Pro2 X-E1 X-E2 X-E2s - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F81XWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BVAZE56YFAEKM0PHQ6EH

People being all technical about prints in darkroom and shit make me laugh.

99.9% of everything in photoshop was used in real life. That includes……the air brush.

Photos were manipulated to hell and back, especially commercial photos. Especially landscapes etc.

Edit away.

What ISNT okay is changing color to black and white. But coloring black and white is okay (it gives a certain look that makes it obviously look colored). Kind of a double edge sword.

People often have this wishy washy idea that photos were just taken perfectly with no post work done. Ansel adams’ work looked boring, until he applied several masks, unsharp masks, dodging and burning, resizing etc to his images. Same goes for color work, Images were airbrushed, they were dodge and burned as well.

There’s no such thing as an “unedited” photo. If photos were historically unedited, photoshop and all of its tools would simply NOT exist.

This must be some newfangled hipster love affair with film that things should be left in their original state.

Photos have always been manipulated and edited.

Edit to your hearts content until you get the image you want. Keep it as true to the original as you can, but still edit. Want to remove a tree? Go ham, yes they did that too (it’s called masking), want to saturate the sky a bit more? They did that too. Want clouds? Add them, they did that as well.

Do whatever makes you happy, because at the end of the day, no one will know it’s edited unless you tell them.

ansel adams photo

if editing was so bad, ansel adams would not create a book on it. this is just one of the many film photo editing books out there

Let’s stop this puritan crap. Thanks

Thank you! Got this effect through a mixture of long exposure + a small LED I have. You can find the light here (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SCJV3PZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KRQ8S1P15JYBM0BZEX9M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 - pretty cheap, fairly versatile, but there’s other options out there). Also used a tripod for my camera to fully capture the exposure sharply - I think this was ~8 seconds.

I’m pretty sure they’re universal given the cable for my 1917 Hawkeye camera also fits my Minolta SRT101 which is from 1976. And I haven’t really seen any different mounts for shutter release cables when I visit my local camera store.

I’d say it’s safe to assume they’re universal, check this one out

Hope this helps. Take some great pictures!

I honestly didn't l don't remember exactly. It was years ago and I lived in the States at the time. It was either a craft store like Hobby Lobby or something like Target.

However, a quick Amazon search yielded this:

Horizon Group USA 30 Rainbow Colorful Foam Sheets 5X 8.5, Multipack Assorted Vibrant Colors, Great for DIY Craft Projects, Multicolor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZPJ18V/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_G39J7M0YRXYN6W6F6YQ8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hope that helps.

I use Lightroom. It's $10 a month though. https://www.darktable.org/ is a free alternative. There are two slide to adjust the temperature and tint. red/yellow/white/blue spectrum and green/magenta spectrum. You can use a part of the image that should be grey with a pipette tool to help.

Do note that the FT QL is fully mechanical camera, so a battery is not required to actually use the camera and take pictures, it's only for the meter. You can also use a phone meter app, if you wish.

Now, with that out of the way, if you do want to use the meter, there are two options for this:

1. Wein Cell MRB625 Zinc Air battery, is a direct replacement for the old 1.3v mercury battery. Pop it in and it works. Only downside to this battery is that it has a very short life-span once it's activated. I think it lasts only a month or so.
2. Modify the camera's electrical system with a specific diode which will bring down the current of a 1.5V battery down to the 1.35V required for the meter to function correctly. Once done, you'd be able to use any 1.5V button battery with an adapter.

I've personally modified my FTB QL with the diode, use an LR44 to 625 adapter and use an LR44 Silver-Oxide battery. If you go this route, avoid Alkaline batteries, because once they start running low on juice, the voltage drops as well, throwing off your meter. Silver-Oxide maintains a constant voltage throughout its lifetime.

First of all, the mercury battery that this camera was designed for has been out of production for several decades, in the US. The camera will take pictures without it, but the meter won't operate. You can either use an external meter or meter app on your phone, or buy a Wein Cell battery, but once activated, they have a short life-span.

Get some cheap film to mess around with. There's Kodak Gold 200 and Fujifilm C200. Both are good films with nice flexibility and color.

https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Converter-Capture-Support-Windows/dp/B087TDN2FL/ref=pd_sbs_4/136-4599555-0785812?pd_rd_w=gBFYG&pf_rd_p=4000a2c8-62c0-4a6b-85f3-aec02d49c163&pf_rd_r=1N94M8BG8HYV588XHXM9&pd_rd_r=1c97ae98-562e-4401-86fa-871bf44e0b15&pd_rd_wg=AYgZR&pd_rd_i=B087TDN2FL&psc=1

These are super useful to have. You’ll never have this problem again.

Film Leader Retriever FILM PICKER for 35mm Cassettes Safe Films Extractor (Original Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DN1080U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JR07F28EB060Q5RRJJ75

>Do you mean 28mm?

No - lens cap sizes are the same as the filter size, which for the lens in your photo would be 58mm. 28mm is the focal length of the lens (3rd & 4th picture). In the 1st & 2nd pictures, the writing there is for the filter.

Something like this would work if you just want a cap, and don't care if it looks like the one that would have originally came with that lens.

Why not just get a neoprene or foam camera wrap that can keep your gear safe in your bag, and then just remove it when you want to shoot? You should have a strap on your camera when out shooting anyway...

https://www.amazon.com/kilofly-Neoprene-Velcro-Adjustable-Protective/dp/B07PK1P2PX/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=camera+wrap&qid=1612802486&sr=8-5

1/250, iso 100, f8? 1/250, iso 200, f4?

I'm curious because it seems overexposed. Still have detail in the highlights, so it's not clipped...but it's pretty hot.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plug.photo.shutter_speed

I use these in mine- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4IVKRG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternatively, you can use it without batteries if you don't need the meter. Make sure you cover the light sensor above the lens though, as it draws power when it senses light.