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> darktable is an open source photography workflow application and raw developer. A virtual lighttable and darkroom for photographers. It manages your digital negatives in a database, lets you view them through a zoomable lighttable and enables you to develop raw images and enhance them.
Ok well that's cool. I assume it works pretty well? Or else people wouldn't be excited about it? ha ha. I don't know anything about light tables or dark rooms ... or dark tables >__>
Darktable is really good as well. It took me virtually no time to learn to use it, it was that intuitive. I just clicked stuff that did what it said it did. The only thing was that it took about 1 minute for me to figure out how to export, but other than that it's a fantastic program.
I don't want to sound too negative, but...
> Avoid: Adobe ... Lightroom
> Instead use: a bunch of programs that don't even try to do the same thing as Lightroom
I wonder how many other things in the list are like that.
At least mention Darktable -- I've not used it myself, but at least it is trying to do what Lightroom does.
> Avoid: Google Drive / Dropbox / OneDrive
> Instead use: stuff you need to self-host
Yeah, I'll get right on that.
> 2FA: Avoid using apps that won't let you export your keys easily.
Huh, my attitude is I want it to be as hard as possible to export keys.
> Avoid: media streaming platforms with content
Right.
If you are looking for LightRoom replacement, try DarkTable ( www.darktable.org ), it is probably much closer to what you want (coupled with a bit of GIMP if really needed).
Importing is only a way to make darktable aware that pictures exist in a folder. Such pictures will be referenced in dt's database (the library). If any other piece of soft changes these pictures externaly (delete, move, rename), darktable is not notified of the change.
> Can't I set darktable to just watch a folder (my photo library folder for example) and just show new files as they come along?
No. There are issues associated with this design, not to mention performance penalty at startup, in general it is not advisable. However, you can re-import folders you already imported (manually, that is) and this will get you the result you want (new pics will be added, old ones will just be kept as-is).
See also https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/overview/sidecar-files/
I think the actual term is Luminosity Masking, but Darktable calls the feature parametric masking.
Here's some more info about it:
http://goodlight.us/writing/luminositymasks/luminositymasks-1.html
https://pixls.us/articles/luminosity-masking-in-darktable/
https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/parametric_mask.html
I still have a lot to learn, but I'm pretty happy with my first attempt at using it.
Darktable ( https://www.darktable.org/ ). Took me a while to get into it but I prefer it over Lightroom now. Works on Linux, Mac and Windows.
The transition shouldn't be too complex depending on your workflow. I do 99% of my post in darktable and on rare occasions I use Gimp.
>I haven't heard of Darktable. Is it similar as in being non-destructive, lens correction, etc.?
>darktable is an open source photography workflow application and raw developer. A virtual lighttable and darkroom for photographers. It manages your digital negatives in a database, lets you view them through a zoomable lighttable and enables you to develop raw images and enhance them.
As strictly a hobbyist photographer, I refused to pay for lightroom, so I've started using Darktable. Free and Open Source, works on Win, Mac & Linux, and, works pretty damn well for what I use it for (mostly bumping exposures and cropping).
There isn't really many choices: darktable and RawTherapee seem to be the most mature software for this. If you're looking for an easy way, just use JPEG and edit them software like GIMP. This works fine in most casual/hobby situations. Otherwise, you might as well invest some time to learn more specialized software.
The order the modules are applied is fixed by the program and the order shown in the user interface reflects that. It can't be changed.
I use Darktable for my RAW editing. It's really good. As I just edit photos every few month, buying a Adobe subscription would not be a smart decision.
Windows also lacks a good and consistent Terminal/Console. Right now you have to deal with antiquated CMD, PowerShell, beta Bash for Windows or hacky Cygwin.
Lightroom actually serves a different purpose than GIMP. GIMP is more akin to Photoshop. If you're look for free and/or open-source software, you could check out Raw Therapee or DarkTable if you're on Linux or Mac.
I'm working on learning how to do this, esp for darktable, which is currently at 2.6.0 by their dev team, but is starting to get stale in repos:
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| Repo | Package | Version |
|---|---|---|
| Community | darktable | 2:2.6.0-1 |
| AUR | darktable-git | release.2.5.0.r220.g19407a592-1 |
I've currently got it installed via tarball, so I can verify that it works in x86_64.
If you just did a clean install, now is a good time to wipe Windows again and give it a try. If you find it isn't for you, wipe again and put windows back on. You can of course also dual boot, but since you just wiped, using a single install and forcing yourself to use Linux for a while is a good way to get properly acquainted with it. Otherwise you might get into a habit of booting windows because you don't feel like spending the time working with alternative software.
For games, if what you want to play isn't available natively on Linux, Lutris is a great way to quickly get playing a lot of games. It simplifies a lot of the manual work you'd normally have to do using Wine or PlayOnLinux. https://lutris.net/
For photo editing, Darktable, Krita (primarily a drawing app, but has lots of photoshop-like features), GIMP
Modern desktop linux isn't difficult to use.
I rarely ever see people suggest it as a first distro, but I really do think Solus is a great option for a brand new Linux user. It's extremely user-friendly and "just works" out of the box, not to mention it looks fantastic and has a great curated software center. Linux Mint is usually another go-to beginner option, but its' appearance can be a bit drab/off-putting until you start customizing the theme.
Well, the first thing you can do is watch the exposure meter in your camera to avoid under/over exposed images. If you keep an eye on it, you'll often times save yourself the hassle of moving sliders in post.
As for recommendations, i personally use the Lightroom+Photoshop subscription bundle, for like 15 bucks a month. Of course there are other free software, but i'd say Lightroom is among the most commonly used.
As for free programs, you can check out GIMP and Darktable. Check out some videos on Youtube to get a feel for it :)
//nearly forgot
If you shoot in RAW format, i'd say go for Darktable, or Lightroom.
If you're shooting standard jpeg, you're fine with some light postprocessing in GIMP.
Obviously it depends on how serious you are about photography and your goals. For a pure hobbyist having fun shooting JPEG and sharing it with family & friends, you're gonna be completely fine with GIMP. And if you're just starting, even better. I encourage you to be just a tiny bit critical about the stuff you shoot and you'll soon be learning a lot about lighting, composition and so on.
Use Lightroom for organizing large catalogs of photos, it is the best tool for the job. If you prefer to not shell out the money for Lightroom you could consider Darktable (open source) which does a similar albeit not as good a job at cataloging photos. Darktable works best in Linux, but does have a Mac and Windows port.
You’ll need to develop the raw file first, then you can edit the results further in GIMP.
A couple of great options:
I really only use Darktable, but have Rawtherapee installed as well. I have found that out of the box Rawtherapee does a better job at noise reduction, but I don't have enough experience to give any tips.
With Darktable this is the tutorial I've followed to get pretty good results. This is the same method recommended on the Darktable manual under section 3.4.4.3. Denoise – profiled.
With this technique I like to set the non-local means patch size to 4, and with both set the strength really high (sometimes even maximum) while using the opacity to tune the strength of the denoise.
The lens correction module in Darktable is really supposed to be just be a one click thing for the most part, the only setting the manual says you need to set yourself is the distance to the subject which I've never found makes a difference really anyway. The results I get seem reasonable to me, but I've never actually verified the correction myself. Could it be possible there is an error in the lensfun library for the lens you are using?
Why?
I tried it back in the middle ages when it was @ version 1.6 or something, was very disappointed. A gave it another chance a few months ago, and found it somewhat better. Played around with it with some raws, learned about base curves, whatched youtube videos by harry durgin, finally learned how to properly use noise reduction (all my high iso pics were displayed far to noisy). Somewhere along the line i came to realize that darktable is extremely powerful, it just requires some basic knowledge to be unleashed. It's worth a few hours of trial and error and learning from the manual or the book, or harrys videos.
There is a windows binary for 2.0 version floating around. But I have not tried it.
Darktable is the reason why I still dual boot to linux on my desktop. Awesome program.
That said, I never tried lightroom.
Hey OP, du kannst aus deinen Fotos viel mehr rausholen wenn du sie ein bisschen bearbeitest. Grade wenn man mit einer DSLR RAW schießt, steckt in den Fotos noch viel Potential was man mit einem passenden Programm und etwas know how rauskitzeln kann.
Hier dein Foto etwas bearbeitet, nur als Beispiel, was man selbst aus einem JPEG rausholen kann.
Hier sind noch ein paar Beispiele aus meiner Sammlung :-)
Persönlich benutze ich Lightroom, das ist aber (meist Ü) nicht umsonst. Eine Alternative von der ich schon gutes gehört habe wäre zum Beispiel <strong>Darktable</strong>
If you must run Photoshop, Linux is not for you.
On the other hand if you're open to alternatives there's plenty of good photo editors, the most known is Gimp, I would suggest to check Darktable and Rawtherapee out.
Darktable is an open-source lightroom alternative, I've used it for a few things but unfortunately, it doesn't support my Z50 yet so I have to wait.
> Lightroom fan, although now I'm concerned about the direction with the big push to the cloud.
You should check out darktable then. It (from what I've heard, I never used lightroom, only darktable) has feature parity with lightroom and is free as in freedom and beer, doesn't push for the cloud and has cross-platform builds.
The album link works fine for me on desktop, but on mobile I had to remove the /all at the end of the URL (so it's just https://imgur.com/a/tfkp5/). Imgur ¯\(ツ)/¯
DarkTable is a free open-source option that works on MacOS and Windows, as well as Linux. Install instructions for MacOS.
There are 2 reasonable ways and 1 kinda stupid way that I can think of to do this.
One is to create a copy of the image in the Dark Table, which will treat the copy just like any other image, allowing you to edit it separately.
I think this feature is called "Duplicate", just go to the lighttable, select your image and hit Ctrl + D. Bam! you got a copy. (Note: This also copies the history stack.)
The other way is to create a custom 'style'. If these are edits you make a lot, this is the way to go. I don't actually remember how to do this. maybe this is the link: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/ch02s03s08.html.php
And, the 3rd, kinda stupid way to do this is to have another image you don't care about. Take your image, go to the lighttable mode, and in the history stack area, hit 'copy all', select your other image, and 'paste all'. Now you are using that other image to 'save' the settings from the first one. This way is not recommended.
This isn't the original project page of Darktable but only the Windows build by an independent guy, who wants to make sure that the original devs don't get bug reports for the Windows version.
With a build for Windows available, this might be the start of them supporting Windows officially. But it might also not be, as I have no idea how the DT devs and the creator at partha.com will handle this. But the devs from Darktable have already stated before, that they'd support Windows if someone is willing to compile and support it.
Bit depth
The number of bits used for each color channel. More bits means less posterization/color banding. from this section
I believe by default the files get put into a subfolder titled darktable_export, check in there for your photo. It will be exported in the format that you have selected (jpeg, TIFF, etc). In the export module under the File Name box at the top you can specify the location that the files are exported to, and what the name is. The XMP file stores what modules and their settings have been used to transform the raw/input file to your finished product. The Darktable user manual is pretty good at explaining all of this and I recommend you have a read here. There's also hundreds of videos on youtube for getting started with Darktable. Personally I enjoy Bruce Williams on youtube here.
This is available in Debian. She'd have to have a bit of computer savvy to use Crostini to run it, but if you can follow a tutorial you can figure it out.
That said, most professional editing software is still written for Windows / Mac, and if I were buying a computer for photo editing it wouldn't be a Chromebook.
HAHA. That is awesome to me. I've always been a big believer in using video editing software to do that because, well, it works. I'm a video guy, so I totally get that, but it's like using a flame thrower to light a candle.
Not a gimp user so I can't help you there, but have you heard of https://rawtherapee.com/? I used many years ago so can't speak on it's modern functionality, but it's probably less of a flamethrower approach to the issue.
Found https://www.darktable.org/ too, but no experience with it.
Siril is completely free and I've found it to be very powerful (https://www.siril.org/), more so than DeepSkyStacker. darktable is also free and is a great RAW processor (https://www.darktable.org/). Both are available on Windows.
I saw your recent post of your own processing, and I think you did a great job with what you had. I prefer orienting the photo so that M110 is below M31, but that's personal.
I went to your image again and applied a ridiculous asin stretch in Siril, and I think I've brought out more color, but at the cost of also showing a lot more noise: https://i.imgur.com/mCsEMCV.jpg
FWIW, I use Adobe CC professionally, primarily InDesign, Illustrator, Photoshop, and Acrobat.
Personally, I wasn't going to pay Adobe a dime, so I invested in the Affinity suite (Photo, Designer, Publisher) from Serif. No, the apps are not quite as polished as Adobe, but they don't have decades under their belt either. For the asking price and what you get out of them, I consider them well worth the investment.
I primarily use page layout programs, with InDesign being the flagship. I've used them all. Scribus works...but it's got a steep learning curve. Free is free though. If you're not making multi-page books, magazines, and catalogs constantly - Affinity Publisher and Quark will work just fine. I still think InDesign is the best page layout app on the market, but I don't need all the advanced features for what I do at home.
Affinity Photo is great, but it's not the best RAW editor. If you're looking to develop RAW camera files, check our DarkTable (and the crew over at r/darktable) or RAWTherapee. They're both extremely capable apps.
thats normal for new cameras... if its the same sensor as the x-t3 just rename the camera model with "exiftool" to x-t3 - until the x-t4 is supported...
​
more details about camera support here: https://www.darktable.org/2012/10/whats-involved-with-adding-support-for-new-cameras/
You can use a graphics card to speed up some things, for example Darktable uses OpenCL to accelerate some processes. > That's where OpenCL comes in. OpenCL allows us to take advantage of the enormous power of modern graphics cards. Gamer's demand for high detailed 3D worlds in modern ego shooters has fostered GPU development. ATI, NVIDIA and Co had to put enormous processing power into their GPUs to meet these demands. The result is modern graphics cards with highly parallelized GPUs to quickly calculate surfaces and textures at high frame rates.
> You are not a gamer and you don't take advantage of that power? Well, then you should at least use it in darktable! For the task of highly parallel floating point calculations modern GPUs are much faster than CPUs. That is especially true, when you want to do the same few processing steps over millions of items. Typical use case: processing of megapixel images.
That said, the high end cards won't give you as much bang for the buck as the mid range cards.
Off course. The problem and solution was on Ubuntu 14.04 and I don't remember if it was needed on 18.04 too. If you have problems with activating OpenCL in Darktable, then these old notes might help you (old notes with old version number):
- install nvidia-352
- remove nvidia-libopencl1-331
- install nvidia-cuda-toolkit ocl-icd-opencl-dev nvidia-352-uvm libcuda1-352
The key here is the official opencl library coming with nvidia was not right and because it could not coexist with the one in ocl-icd opencl, it had to be removed. Used this 4 years and it worked and never experienced problems regarding OpenCL. It speed up Darktable significantly, when internal filter on/off changes caused 20 seconds pause, now it was only 1 second!
As said before, I don't remember if I had to do this in Ubuntu 18.04 too. If OpenCL with Nvidia is greyed out, then try to remove nvidia-libopencl1-331 first and then install ocl-icd-opencl-dev.
And btw, here is an old page about OpenCL usage in Darktable: https://www.darktable.org/2012/03/darktable-and-opencl/
I am not aware of faststone.
I left the windows desktop/laptop about a decade ago because I could not do what I wanted. See my post about this here:
Also see my series on Linux for Photographers
You could also look at darktable https://www.darktable.org/ which looks like it is available for windws, macs and linux. It is free open source.
https://www.darktable.org/install/
Get the installer from there.
For a lot of these open-source projects, "unstable" just means "latest"; you rarely have big rewrites that actually cause instability.
Have you checked out Chapter 2. Lighttable?
Here's a snippet:
> In the center of the bottom panel you have an option to choose between > zoomable lighttable view or filemanager view of the thumbnails. In zoomable > lighttable view, scroll with your mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Moving the > mouse while pressing the left mouse button allows you to navigate through > your collection. In filemanager view, you can can change the number of > images in each row, using the slider next to the filemanager option, or by > using ctrl-(mouse wheel). Use your mouse wheel to navigate through your > collection.
It also mentions some keyboard commands, these in particular might be of use to you:
z- fully zoom into the image while the key is pressedctrl-z- fully zoom into the image and show areas in focus
Apparently Darktable has fully non-destructive editing on photo image data.
It also has perspective correction. :)
It's open source and it works on Linux.
From: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/ch01.html.php
> darktable keeps image information in an sqlite database for fast access. The default location of that database file is “$HOME/.config/darktable/library.db”
First if all, what camera do you use? If its a fuji or sony, then capture one has a free version of their app for these cameras. If not, then maybe look at darktable or rawtherapee. These are probably better than gimp at manipulating the colours.
For the editing side, really, if youre not doing this as a job, just do what ever catches your eyes. Analyse what you like about other peoples photos and try to implement that into your own photography. Also, try to follow creators that inspire you. Learning from how they frame shots and how their colours are is a great way of improving your own photography.
For the actual process, I personally start from the simpler things (exposure, highlights and shadows, wb, crop) then the curves and finally hsl and split toning. Play around with the settings. Just drag them to the extremes and youd know what they do. Dont pay too much attention to the histogram. Its a good way to judge your image, but it shouldn’t be the be all end all. Sometimes an over and under-exposed and image can look better and bring a different feel to the image
Hope this helps!
Your raw files absolutely need editing. Most cameras can be configured to shoot raw/jpeg simultaneously. Try that to also see the developed jpgs. And you can still keep the raws, or try to edit them yourself.
If you want to try out editing your raw files without having to pay for Software take a look at https://www.darktable.org/
It’s a free software that is available for all the big platforms, and it is really powerful. I personally use Adobe products, but Darktable is a good point of entry, to see if you actually like editing.
Have you tried $(FILE_NAME) instead of $(SEQUENCE). I don’t use this function but but it looks like $(SEQUENCE) uses sequential numbering to denote the order in which the files have been imported. FIRST_IMAGE_0001.jpg is imported first and xxx_0002.RAF is imported second.
https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/3.6/en/special-topics/variables/
It never makes a copy, it uses a sidecar file to store the "edits" to the photo that are only applied on export.
​
https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/3.6/en/overview/sidecar-files/sidecar/
You're using Windows, so you need this part from the darktable website: Install Microsoft Windows
The download link points to the latest exe version (3.6.0.1 for win64).
Aside from DPP, you could also try an open source RAW converter, like darktable or RAWTherapee, (instead of Lightroom) and a photo editor like the Gimp instead of Photoshop.
RAW converters let you view RAW files and do non-destructive [mostly] whole-image adjustments. These adjustments are saved to a database or sidecar file, and are only applied when you export the results of your editing, so the original RAW file is never modified.
A photo editor, however, will actually save changes you make to the file itself (though you can set up some undo capability), but can give you more pixel-level freedom of editing (e.g., compositing with masks and layers).
Most photographers like to use both types of applications, but will do most of their work in a RAW converter (although some Photoshop folks prefer to use Adobe Bridge and Adobe Camera RAW instead of Lightroom's Library and Develop modules).
Can I by any chance interest you in wavelet decomposition built directly into raw processing software such as free/libre app called darktable?
On this front, Darktable is basically the best photography workflow application and raw developer tool you can get and its also open source.
There's a lot of good creative tools that are free now, just not enough people know of them so they remain hidden.
I personally use Capture One Pro. Not cheap and has a learning curve, but the company's YouTube page has a ton of tutorials to help you learn. They have a free trial, too. Lots of other people use Lightroom. It's industry standard. But it does cost a monthly subscription fee instead of a one time cost.
There are also some free photo editing tools like Darktable and RawTherapee.
Regardless of which one you choose, make sure you're shooting your photos in RAW format, not JPG. RAW files give you much more editing leeway and will look way better after your edits.
Looks like your scans are decent, just gotta sort out your white balancing!
I've had a V500 for years and I use VueScan (paid license). Even with the V500, properly white balancing (and color balancing if you're a masochist like me) is difficult. Just watch a bunch of youtube videos on other people's processes and you'll get the hang of it. BE PATIENT! There's plenty of folks just like you out there taping their negatives to flatbeds and making it work.
If the V500 is out of your price range for now, perhaps you can purchase or DIY something like this. Newer smartphones have camera sensors plenty capable enough to make a decent scan.
I also highly recommend a post-processing software like Darktable (free). I'm a lazy mfer and often just post-process my photos in Google Photos, but Darktable affords you an excellent amount of control over your scans, and can even allow for some automation.
Why are you recommending the RGB curve module for adjusting contrast when it is a display-referred module? It is under the "Modules to avoid" section of the scene-referred workflow described in the user manual found here: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/overview/workflow/edit-scene-referred/
There's CA correction in camera, but that isn't great. I would shoot in RAW, and go to lens corrections and start there. If your lens doesn't have that, you can correct it manually. You don't need anything fancy, you can do it in Darktable(that's free & open source).
As I understand it, while you can pick the modules and adjust them in any order you like, Darktable decides the order in which modules are actually applied to the image.
https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/darkroom_concepts.html
Does it even run Linux? If not it may be a while until someone who is both a MacOSX user and has their newest laptop appears and is willing to build and package it.
The instructions on https://www.darktable.org/install/#macos say good luck and that's from the x86-64 era.
I don't think you should try to process Raw files with GIMP. GIMP isn't a raw processor.
Which version of Dark table were you using ? What is your camera model ? Is it in the list of supported cameras here ?
https://www.darktable.org/resources/camera-support/
I personally don't have any issues with darktable with editing files from my Canon cameras. The exposure looks fine. I used dark table with 40D, 7D, 5DS and G3X. Didn't have issues with any of them. I also use Capture One and did use DPP occassionally. Didn't notice anything majorly off with dark table compared to either of them. Of course the default tone curves that each of these apply would be different but it shouldn't result in image being extremely under exposed like you are mentioning.
Not a hundred percent sure it'll work, but maybe in preferences? There's a section to change your default shortcuts.
This might be useful too: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/shortcuts.html
> can't open raw files on gimp
try https://www.darktable.org/install/ or https://rawtherapee.com/downloads/ instead.
Sounds like the RAW processor in windows is "the problem", so the fix will be not to use that until Micro$oft solves that.
I know you are looking for software to organize and don't do edits, but since no one seem to have any definite answer, I'm going to suggest some that I believe have the capability, you just have to ignore the editing tools.
HDRMerge or Luminance HDR might work. Darktable also has an HDR function that just combines all the data from the RAW files, but it's a full-blown RAW Processor and is probably too much for your needs.
In case you have a need to post process your photos from a DSLR, there is Darktable (https://www.darktable.org/). Feel free to go though pretty good User Manual (https://www.darktable.org/resources/) if needed.
I've been using Darktable for the past two years. It looks similar to Lightroom and has most of the features, but is completely free.
RawTherapee is another free application, but I haven't used it so I don't know how it compares to other software.
If you really want to nail the SoC jpeg looks in darktable and are willing to spend a little time to do so, darktable-chart is a great tool: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/darktable_chart.html
Easiest way I found:
- Install darktable
- open your image
- go to the darkroom tab and pick the colour group
- play with the settings until it looks better
- go back to the lighttable tab and export your image to jpg
Thanks! Sure: * ISO 100 * f/9.0 * 1/10 shutter * On tripod * Canon EF-S 55-250 zoom lens, zoomed way in * Developing: RAW denoise, crop, black point (done with the badass open source RAW developer, darktable)
What type of file is this? as in a .jpg .gif or a raw file like .cr2 or .raw?
what happens when you just press the spacebar key on the file in finder, does it display ok? what about in another program?
If you have a newer DSLR camera and are shooting in raw format (or if someone has given you a raw image) then you will need to update OSX so that Preview is able to decode the raw photo properly. Another method if you don't want to update, would be to load it into a program that can read the raw file properly and use it to convert it to JPEG or TIFF with a free program like Darktable https://www.darktable.org/
Maybe you want to try RawTherapee or darktable. It's free and opensource, but do not underrate it for being free. Give it a thorough spin and see if it can be useful to your workflow. :)
RAW camera samples can be submitted to raw.pixls.us. There used to be rawsamples.ch, but it appears they moved away from that. Here is a 2017 blog post from darktable announcing the new raw.pixls.us service.
This is a long shot, but make a copy of your raw file, and try editing the EXIF data on the image to an older camera that is supported.
This might sort of work.
Another long shot option can be found here: https://www.darktable.org/2012/10/whats-involved-with-adding-support-for-new-cameras/ but it's way more work, and pretty complicated.
The Darktable manual itself recommends the levels module over the exposure module for black point adjustment:
> A black level adjustment is a basic tool to increase contrast and pop of an image. The value defines at what threshold dark gray values are cut off to pure black. Use with care as the clipped values can not be recovered in other modules further down the pixelpipe. Please also have a look at the tone curvemodule (see Section 3.4.2.3, “Tone curve”) and the levels module (see Section 3.4.2.2, “Levels”) which can produce similar results with less side effects as they come later in pixelpipe.
I don't think it's a professional team which makes money out of it, that's why they refuse to do a windows build even if it is feasible...
edit: cf. https://www.darktable.org/2015/07/why-dont-you-provide-a-windows-build/comment-page-1/
There is the snapshot feature which accomplishes roughly what you want to do but in a different way. It works on all monitor sizes, although it doesn't seem quite as convenient as what you described.
UFraw is a bit tough to get used to using, in my opinion. It used to be the only game in town for open source processing, but we now have much better alternatives I think (https://www.darktable.org and http://www.rawtherapee.com).
I'd recommend trying one of those (darktable is only Linux/OS X, RT is all three). Devs for both programs (and other users) can be found at discuss.pixls.us if you need a hand (or just ping me here and I'll try to help).
Darktable
​
BEST open source RAW editor out there. Super powerful, alittle tricky to use at first but has produced 100's of quality images for me.
You're welcome.
You can also check out RawTherapee / Art, DarkTable too, they have quite complicated color correction controls (which means learning curve).
Im confused by the question, if your trying to dodge a fee to cancel the subscription, i cant help. But if your after a free replacement for photoshop, checkout Darktable an open source photo and image editor. https://www.darktable.org/
Packages for darktable 3.8 are already available on OBS (linked from https://www.darktable.org/install/): https://software.opensuse.org/download.html?project=graphics:darktable&package=darktable
(These builds are official enough to be linked directly from the darktable.org website.)
I'm sure the Flathub version will be updated soon and various distros will build their own packages within the next few days.
So, for now, you can download from the Open Build Service or wait a couple of days if you'd like a package. But Linux users do have release packages in some form already.
Ähemm ... Darktable ist ein RAW Entwickler und ein Verwaltungsprogramm für Blder, kein typisches Programm, um Bilder wie in GIMP zu bearbeiten. DT brauchst du dir übrigens auch nicht zu Weihachten wünschen, es ist kostenose Open Source Software, siehe https://www.darktable.org/install/.
Alternativ dazu und auch kostenlos: rawTherapee: https://www.rawtherapee.com/
Sie "kosten" durchaus etwas, nämlich Zeit für die Einarbeitung. Ü
I recommend reading at least the first few lines of this.
https://www.darktable.org/2016/10/raw-overexposed/
It seems like there might be a couple LAYERS of settings that resulted in that pinkish purple cast.
I have never used darktable, so I have no idea past this but I just Googled about its warning color and this came up. If that isn't the issue, I don't know
Reviewing and merging PRs is one thing, add support for other platforms is another thing. I suppose most people do that (I do, too).
But a lot of projects that don't offer a windows build don't do that because no one showed up and added support for windows and commits to maintaining it. If they would, I really doubt that anyone would refuse that. So yes, it boils down to "should Linux devs that are not familiar with windows and don't use it themselves work on windows support."
For example, the darktable project didn't provide a windows build for a long time got this exact reason: https://www.darktable.org/2015/07/why-dont-you-provide-a-windows-build/
I can assure you that providing windows binaries for an application is a lot of work. And I'm not talking about python scripts where adding cross platform support is comparably easy. Desktop applications written in C/C++ require building dependencies for each platform, dealing with linker issues, dealing with MSVC runtime problems, building an exe file...
I had to do this for a pretty large FOSS project where we switched build system and therefore had to rewrite the packaging scripts in CMake. And even though we have a lot of downloads (>100k/month) on Windows/macos there was no contributor who stepped up to work on this. Every single core dev uses Linux. I wouldn't do it again and rather drop windows support than doing this tedious work again.
Have you tried Filmulator? The lead dev even posts in this forum.
If that's not doing the trick, then check out darktable's new filmic rgb module. It's designed to handle highlight rolloff like film does, which might help getting that consistent feeling. It can be used with the new Color Balance RGB module for some really powerful colour grading capability.
For a general darktable scene-referred workflow, you're looking at something like:
- Correct exposure in the exposure module
- Adjust white balance in the Color Calibration module
- Set highlight compression in the filmic rgb module
- Set shadow compression in filmic rgb
- Set contrast and saturation in filmic rgb's look tab
- Retouch (if desired) with the retouch module
- Dodge and burn with the tone equalizer module
- Grade your colours with the Color Balance RGB module
- Pick a LUT (if desired) with the lut 3D module
You'll also want to pre-set a couple options to fit your workflow and save them as default, for example you may want to:
- Enable the denoise (profiled) module and set it to the auto profile in wavelets auto mode
- Switch to a dual-demosaicing method (RCD + VNG4) in the demosaic module
- Enable the hot pixels module and enable "detect by 3 neighbors"
- Enable the local contract module and disable the sharpness module (the former is scene-referred, the latter is not)
- Enable or disable the lens correction module to fit your preference
- Enable and set the grain module (if desired)
- Set the output color profile module to the setting you want
> I know Windows has sleep but that doesn't work in-game. Just something I haven't seen mentioned yet.
That has nothing to do with this functionality whatsoever. The goal is to stop a running game and resume it very quickly without the typical loading times first for the main menu then for the last save point/level. The closest analogy here would be save states from emulators, except this is low level functionality, which I assume will be compatible with Deck's specific hardware and do heavy lifting work in kernel space.
Suspending, as in power management, can actually work with certain games under GNU/Linux. And sending a stop signal works very well too.
Optimization for drivers would be another point. Windows might just run, but far from optimal. Performance wise and battery life alike. Yes it's a PC, but Valve isn't going to put effort into compatibility and optimization for a competitor. They might not actively block it and even encourage experimentation, but that's it.
If this ends up like the Darktable situation, where Windows users really wanted a fully featured release of Darktable, and they were in numbers, but they didn't really want to volunteer and put effort into it, well then, good luck.
Limited input hardware support might be yet another aspect.
Lastly, official support from Valve. I don't see how Valve will just spend their resources trying to troubleshoot some Windows issues with their hardware. It's released with their OS and probably only that OS will get support. Even other distributions might get affected here.
All of this was mentioned several times during the first big wave by the way. Consider yourself lucky for missing it.
On the processing side having a software that has a vectorscope helps a lot :
I'm not sure if there's tools that do color matching between files, but in theory that should be possible too.
> photo editors
oh i see, cos i thought you want a application for digital art
i use Krita for line drawings mainly, and the UI is better than GIMP to be honest haha!
hmm for photos, you can give another application, Darktable, a look.
https://www.darktable.org/about/features/
https://www.darktable.org/install/
I don't shoot Sony, but I've never heard about color or noise issues about their cameras. I would recommend using a different RAW editor as a first step and work from there. Darktable comes to mind. Even Lightroom.
Liquify ist used to to distort pictures. As discribed here: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/module-reference/processing-modules/liquify/
Everything works fine with single dots. But if you use the curve function, which works by clicking the curve tool and then picking several dots. Then the arrow that is set at every point gets interpolated.
As you might be able to tell this works fine for the first three points. And between point 4 and point 5. Unfortunately between point 3 and 4 the interpolation seems to go the other way around.
I can only assume it has something to do angles around 0. I would suggest you get some image with a more or less straight line from top to bottom and pick around 5 points along that line. And then set all of the vectors to go left and some slightly up and others slightly down.
I had a feeling this is a nieche module, but the fact that I could not find this issue anywhere still baffles me.
I also looked at the source code but unfortunately my c skills are not quite on the level they would need to be.
darktable has a module to do this https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/module-reference/processing-modules/color-mapping/
You can have a newer version of apps by enabling a PPA on Ubuntu: "If you need a newer version than what is included in your distribution, check out the third party packages section" Source: https://www.darktable.org/install/#ubuntu But be aware that the latest releases aren't in the official repo for a reason
If you want to try openSUSE ready out of the box I'll suggest to try Gecko Linux which really is just openSUSE but easier.
Manjaro is also a good option. They're a company now, so the Enterprise requirement is filled
IMO, none of them are really "bad". You can still adjust the shadows and highlights of a JPG (you don't necessarily need a RAW, though it will buy you more latitude). You could probably run these thru whatever app Nikon provides (I use Canon's Digital Photo Professional, for example) and improve the JPGs. Alternatively, you could try darktable, which has a steep learning curve, but works pretty well (one of the old pictures would probably benefit a lot from the dehaze process).
If you have Lightroom already, all you have to do is invert the tone curve. You can even save it as a preset. :)
If you really need free free free, darktable is a good FOSS analog to Lightroom that runs on OSX. You can use the negadoctor module in darktable to process negative images.
If neither of the Raw converters on your system can open these DNG files, then GIMP won't either - as I wrote it uses these applications to import them.
Now, according to e.g. https://www.darktable.org/resources/camera-support/, Darktable should support DNG, so maybe the issue is with support for the the specific DNG files your phone produces. This would be something you should report to Darktable.
I don't use it myself, but one of my photographer friends is a big fan of the open-source Lightroom alternative, Darktable. I don't think it's quite ready for primetime on the M1 processor yet, but it looks like the community is working on it.
What version of darktable are you using? It looks like you're using the old import defaults, and not the new ones that use filmic rgb. I would suggest trying the new settings before changing the import defaults. https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/overview/workflow/edit-overview/
DarkTable is the open-source equivalent of Lightroom. If the camera is in the database you can undistort the photos but as u/ChinaMan28 pointed out this will crop your images. There's also Hugin for another GUI, or OpenCV for scripting a solution. Photogrammetry softwares do their own lens calibration so these steps are kind of redundant.
I've processed Micasense imagery without GPS for 5ac., 100ft AGL. I also had an RGB layer from the same flight so to make the Micasense work I pulled four "control" points from the RGB ortho, and also added >10 manual tie points. You could possibly use Google Earth to do the same thing.