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https://www.behance.net/gallery/28058837/Munich More images from the same Photographer.

EDIT: Wow, being downvoted to hell for providing more work by the same artist. Probably time to leave this sub.

Hahahah. I used only Lightroom

• Exposure +2.00
• Highlights -100
• Shadows + 100

And after I worked with the tones curve. Once the exposure was fixed, I worked on the colors. :)

If you are interested some time ago I wrote about my Workflow: Workflow in Lightroom

Thank you mate! Some time ago I did a guide on editing with the same technique, the process is the same so take a look here (Pink Vibes, Tutorial)

In this case I have not changed the tones of the photo much, the photos were taken at dawn I only worked on the hsl, very little calibration (maximum 10 points per value) and no split toning.

If you have any other questions I am available :)

You should ask the owner, he originally rose to fame on Reddit! Any time his stuff pops up he always answers

Can't remember his reddit name but this is his flickr stream

Oh sorry, thank you!

Some time ago I did a guide on editing with the same technique, the process is the same so take a look here: Pink Vibes, Tutorial

Good job, well executed. Man, I cant for the love of my live get this done (tried so many times). My postprocessing skills aint that bad, but I just cant execute the "babyfied-style" :(

Would it be too much to ask for a small tutorial?

First off, good on you for trying to get a look for yourself and not just hitting a preset and be done with it. Also, opinions are obviously pretty subjective, so here's mine:

Honestly, I think it's a bit too much. Your shadows feel like they are clipped to much, and your red is clipping in the highlights. Take this one for example: https://www.flickr.com/photos/zeherfoto/14044537105/in/set-72157644425620763

• The red blouse has a weird clipping texture on it. The detail is lost where you'd expect there to be detail
• You get some weird edges around contrasty blue areas. Take the tent-roof on the left for example
• Behind the guy with the blue checkered shirts, there are a lot of small blue objects. Because the intensity of the blue is so high, these little things become distractive

My advice? I've learnt that, in order to achieve a generally pleasant aesthetic, do what you like and than do half of everything. If you've upped the clarity by 10, make it 5. If you've clipped the shadows at 15,15 make it 8,7. Etcetera.

This feels like it's just too much. But I can fully understand why you want to have a look to your images, opposite to the first two examples of your post which feel "plain" in these days of heavy processing. But still, don't overdo it.

Here is the RAW file.

I like the simplicity of this photo but fiddling with it in Lightroom I can't really find anything to do with it. Is there a way to process it to make it more pleasing or is this as good as it gets?

Clean up the sky, push the blue luminance and sat up a good bit. Correct keystoning, lift shadows (less contrast). Play with the green tone, should be more playful/vibrant. Pull the RGB values from his images and try to match them, Adobe Color is good for that.

Full disclosure: I didn't create this tutorial, it's just something that I found on Behance.

The artist is Breno Bitencourt: Behance, Website.

I've done some LE stuff for a while now , if you're shooting during the day you'll need a strong ND filter (ND110 atleast), which will allow you shoot long during the day. Most of the editing is done in Silver Efex Pro, which is a very good B&W conversion program. Often photographers will use Gradient masks too. I've played around using Gradient Masks and whilst they are fiddly they can create some great stuff.

Joel Tjintjelaar did a fantastic video here using is iSGM technique using gradient masks. (Bottom Video, interesting bits start at around the 8 minute mark.

The film look is blue shadows and yellow highlights and / or green and orange. It's based (for people who didn't know) on the skin tones looking yellow or orange during sunset and sunrise. This is a film editing tutorial, but it's done by the guy who did the coloring for Transformers, Where The Wild Things are, etc. He explains why it's done though. You can also add grain and / or top and bottom bars for a 16:9 ratio if you want it to really look like a film still. The above photo example is okay, but I think it looks a little sickly. This page has a great list of photo examples that I think represent the actual film look more, and less of a 'lomo filter' effect.

Enjoy! (Keep in mind, I did not write most of these, I only collected over the years and kept them for reference. )

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0BwnNKJCmZgz9ZDU5ZjBiM2EtMDI0OC00YjdiLTkxYjgtOTY2NDllMzQ3NGNm&hl=en_US

patch tool can do the trick! Takes a little time, but the results are worth it. You can use it by selecting lighter area and then dragging the selection to darker. Patch tool blends the two pretty well. Fool around with it for a while. It has saved me couple of times!

http://www.ehow.com/how_2192913_use-patch-tool-photoshop.html

If you are worried about your security and privacy of who owns and can read your files on another entity's server (with most top search results yielding less-than-reputuable megacorps), self-hosting might be good option for you and clients. Syncthing and Sia are cross-platform, open-source options recommended from the PRISM Break project for file sharing.

Hi there!

My name is Claudio Guglieri and a friend of mine sent me this thread by email! I took the picture used as reference here so I can answer your question.

This picture was surprisingly easy to take and retouch. It was taken at home with a pretty simple setup. I used a white poster board as surface, a standing lamp and the natural light coming from a window from the sides. These 2 sources is why you see double shadows projecting from of the branches.

I used a Mark III, 24-70 mm ƒ/4.0. I believe the camera made a big difference here.

Finally the retouching phase was fairly fast but I made sure I enhanced colors and lighten up the background enough to avoid grey areas. A normal trick is to always double check the extreme contrasted version of the pic with 'Levels' in PS to make sure the whites are correct. I created an animated gif and posted it on dribbble a few days ago. Check the link below and let me know if you have further questions.

https://d13yacurqjgara.cloudfront.net/users/59138/screenshots/2490126/attachments/488622/loveletter_attachment.gif https://dribbble.com/shots/2490126-A-love-letter-to-freelancing-Guglieri-com

Thanks

I am not a sports photographer so take this with a whole can of salt, but I'd say that there's three primary things going on.

1. Shoot with a relatively long focal length to achieve that depth compression of the stadium against the player, BUT also keep aperture relatively high to maintain a large DoF and keep the stadium seats somewhat in focus. You want just a slight blur on the seats but not crazy enough to turn everything into blobs.

2. Use those powerful stadium lights as hairlighting (have your subject block out one of the stadium lights). Hairlighting always gives things a very cinematic, epic feel. Makes subjects look larger than life, which is what we want here. These players aren't just players. They're god damn warriors.

3. Red and green are complementary colors and thus pop out when they're against each other. One tool that I love is https://color.adobe.com. This will show you all the different color theories that are commonly used by photographers. Start spotting these colors when you shoot and make them work together to emphasize subjects. I think during postprocess, this guy must have upped saturation on the reds and greens, maybe even adjusted hues to make them more complementary, and then did a slight desat on the other colors.

Anyways, that's just my two cents.

Something like that might do the trick. A simple dot texture.

Of course, you could go further and add a displacement map to all channels to simulate a printer and have something more accurate.

Of course, as I said before I did a post on Notion about my workflow some time ago, it is not a tutorial on this particular photo but it helps you to understand how I work and how I get this result.

However, if there is a need I can do another one for these photos, in the next few days I will post them on Instagram and if they are successful I will make a video on these photos;)

>Hey I’m super curious about these post processing posts with the colour blocks at the bottom. Are you using those blocks as references for colour and making changes manually? Or are you able to input those values so that the computer sets different luminance values to those specific colour codes? Or is it just to show us the colours you were going for? Basically what are the colour blocks at the bottom for?

None of this, the palette (blocks of color) is just the result of my post-production.

In reality I had started exporting them (via color.adobe) to check the balance between the colors and to see if there is any shade that did not harmonize with the others, but I don't deny that by now inserting it is more an aesthetic question and a way to share my works.

You can add them all to a "collection" in Google Docs and make them public. I wrote up instructions as a Google Doc and shared the collection so you can see what it looks like

I bought one of these a few months ago when it was ons sale at B&H. It's a handy tool to have, but the bundled software is horrible. I ended up with a weird color cast and neither of my monitors were close to matching. I use DisplayCAL and its worked well for me so far. My monitors don't match exactly, but they're very close. Ever since I picked up a PRO-100 and started printing myself, color calibration has become a key part of my workflow. Between the Spyder5 and DisplayCAL what I see on my screen is what comes out in print.

I'd like to see more exposure given to the free/libre open-source image editing tools. The subreddit's design (which is very nice, BTW!) is very Apple- and Adobe-centric at the moment (I'm looking at the images of cameras and Adobe products at the bottom!). Don't get me wrong, I understand that Photoshop and Lightroom are probably the two most used bits of post-processing software on the planet. But they aren't for everyone -- they cost money and they do not support some people's OSs.

I use the excellent Raw Studio to process raw files and I then use GIMP to further tweak them. We should show them some love, too! :o)

Sharpen, bring the whites down a bit + kill highlights. Desaturate (not too much). Expose well. Bring the blacks up to a bit more of a grey (in this case, a brownish-grey). A lot of this is in-camera though.

I didn't think it was desaturated because the palette is so nicely balanced, but check this out: analysis. It seems to be pretty washed out.

Edit: you can do most of this in-camera if you shoot with a flat colour profile.

Piggybacking off that comment (because I think it's the best answer in the thread so far), not only changing the white balance but also the exposure would probably help. Of course, if you did all these things while taking the picture, you'd get better results than in postprocessing.
Messing around a bit with the brush tool might help with a pseudo-fog, too. Also, google's nik collection has color efex pro which has a graduated fog filter, and google's nik collection is free (so I'd highly recommend it, it used to cost quite a lot, and it's got some really powerful tools).

Since the background behind the bar is mostly overexposed sky, you can try to use an adjustment brush on the bar to completely blow it out and make it as white as the background. Will be a pain in the ass though.

To soften the skin your best bet will be to download the Nik Collection since it's now free and use the dynamic skin softener in Color Efex Pro. Not as good as manual retouching in Photoshop, but it's pretty snazzy as long as you don't go overboard.

ibreakphotos is right about the difference in light temperature. Again you can try using an adjustment brush to correct it, but it will also be a pain in the ass and won't be exact.

I use Nik Sharpener Pro. I like that it has output presets for different media and viewing distances (I work in print as well as web). It allows me to get the right amount of sharpening much more quickly and confidently than using the hi-pass method. It's not free though.

Adobe has their own browser-based colour wheel, and you can choose different harmony rules for it. Not sure if there's an app or if it can work on mobile, but it definitely helps.

Adobe Color for anyone who's interested/not used it before.

Use a dedicated panorama merging tool for the best results, they provide heaps of tools to tweak the alignment of your images. For example, PTGui is really excellent for this: http://www.ptgui.com/ , it has special control points you can add to ensure that vertical lines stay vertical in the final merge. Even with its fully automated stitching, I've never seen errors like this.

Hugin is a free opensource panorama merging tool which is based on the same backend as PTGui (that's Panorama Tools). I haven't tried it out but I've heard good things about it, http://hugin.sourceforge.net/.

I can try merging your source images in PTGui for you if you post them somewhere to see how well it does.

What about this?. I think maybe it's all of those trees on the mountain that make it look too sharp. Landscape sharpening is tough for me haha.

That was super helpful and very informative. Here is a link of Trashhand's skillshare class he made to teach people. For those who want to watch it and contribute more to this topic.

http://www.skillshare.com/classes/photography/Cityscape-Photography-Capture-Your-Citys-Story/62903648?via=my-classes

Makes sense. You're no longer looking at a face, you are looking at a thing which make contain superficial flaws.

There was a freehand drawing book titled, 'Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain'.

The same concept was used in the book. Turn things upside-down. Then, you don't look at eyes, and skin, and fingers, you only see things with color and texture.

Thank you mate! Some time ago I did a post with my workflow, maybe it can be useful to you :) (Pink Vibes, Tutorial)

In these photos I did most of the work with the color temperature, the original photos were much more blue-inclined, so I put a radial filter with a luminance mask that tends to orange

Hi mate, thank you I did a tutorial some time ago, this is the link:

https://www.notion.so/Pink-Vibes-Lr-Ps-f001767055354ab7a8f07162e08077a9

I hope you find it useful

if you are referring to the color I wrote a tutorial here: Lightroom Workflow

If, on the other hand, you talk about the double exposure effect, I wrote in another comment that I will do a tutorial on My instagram on how to get the effect with photoshop in a few days (Tuesday probably)

> The lights are patchy and uneven.

That was my first observation - particularly the bit above the door.

I noticed it immediately because it's what always happens to me. I have no choice but to light paint, because a lot of my photography is in tunnels, bunkers, and other hard-to-get-to dark places that don't let me drag in huge amounts of lighting gear, and lighting evenly with high-powered torches is really challenging to learn.

Example here

I like the effect, though, and wish there were more comments providing advice on how to do it better.

I like it though! What are the differences like on your monitor? I had some issues with my shadows and my greens when I looked at it on a different screen.

My final version ended up here, quite a radically different look! I know it's nothing new but it's still amazing the difference in mood a few tweaks can make.

I shot only portraits, heres my (not really that interessting) workflow:

Gear: Nikon D7000 + Nikkor 85mm 1.8G
Import RAWs into Lightroom
Delete bad pictures in Lightroom (blurry, bad pose, duplicates)
Select the "money shot" (if I landed one) and bring it right into photoshop.

From there I use the classic stuff fpr portraits

Make black / white background 100% black / white using the threshold adjustmentlayer + levels (trying to get away from these kind of boring backgrounds though)
Decide where I want the image to go and act accordingly with hue/sat, levels, selective color and vibrance layers to get the color / mood I want / need.
Frequency separation for skin retouching.
Dodge and burn layer for....yeah, dodging and burning.
Depending on the image here and there a layer for makeup (softlightlayer + paint with brush + gaussian blur).
Near the end of the retouch I started to use a quick dodge and burn I learned the other day from phlearn, opacity depends on the image (usually 15-25%, highpass ~60px)
Highpass layer for sharpening (mostly 1.8-1.9px)
Save as TIFF / export as JPG for 500px etc.

The basic procedure is

1. open one image in gimp

2. file -> open as layers and select all the other images

3. You have four layers. For the top three layers right click the thumbnail and select "add layer mask". Select "Black (full transparency)"

4. You merge the images by painting black and white on the layer masks. You want to use fuzzy brushes to make the transitions smooth. To make each dancer appear you want white where they are and black in the same location on any layer above the layer you are working on.

It gets a bit tricky where the dancers overlap, but just keep working with fuzzy brushes of different sizes (use the scale slider in the brush tool). Remember to reveal the dancers and their shadows.

I have had a go at it and the results are here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1x9wj0jwlx900e8/dflUXK4iUL

I included the gimp (xcf) file so you can load that to see what it should look like. You'll want to work on the full size images for the best results.

*Edit for clarity.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!

Here is link number 1 - Previous text "LUT"

^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Okay, here is my exiftool batch file:

> exiftool.exe -exif:FocalLength=35 -exif:FocalLengthIn35mmFormat=35 -exif:FNumber=2.8 -exif:SubjectDistance=10.5 *.jpg

What it does: FocalLength is your focal length, in mm. FocalLengthIn35mmFormat is the equivalent focal length in 35mm format- if you have a crop factor it should be calculable from these two numbers (FocalLengthIn35mmFormat/FocalLength). FNumber is your F stop, and is used to calculate your APEX Aperture Value (2*Log[FNumber] in base 2). SubjectDistance is distance to your focal plane, in meters.

Honestly, a lot of what they do follows the same techniques.

• Most are not clipped (no high contrast; fairly neutral exposure -- even when the sun is directly in the photo)

• The few over-exposed shots are still very low contrast; looks like they raise the shadows a lot

• Increased Whites slider to get whites whiter without over-exposing highlights

• Dark parts of image are crushed (no deep/rich blacks; all a little faded -- this can be accomplished with Curves and/or negative contrast)

• Split Toning (warmth added to highlights, coolness added to shadows or green/purple); check out Adobe's complimenting colors Color Wheel.

• Slight desaturation (this is to enhance split toning IMO)

Also, notice that most of those examples are shot on fairly neutral/cloudy days -- they're low contrast by choice in edits and by choice in photos used.

mogrify -crop 640x480+50+100 *.png

where 640 is the width, 480 the height, 50 x origin, 100 y origin (top left corner)

mogrify is a tool of ImageMagick (and of course GraphicsMagick) a cross-platform program.

Hi Chris, the long "wait time" of the Sony recording a single RAW file is simply the nature of in-camera image processing hardware circa 2003. RAWs are big uncompressed files compared to JPEGs, and upper-tier pro bodies of that era weren't much faster (relying on large image storage buffers to improve performance). Sadly, other forums confirm that the F828's write speed is the same regardless of the memory card... so shooting RAW will require appreciating some patience.

I believe Irfanview is free and supports the Sony RAW format. Goodluck with the job search!

here's a quick lightroom preset
The flare cant be done in lightroom easily, it contains too much destructive wash out. Just play around with transparency on a cream gradient in photoshop.

It'd be easier to just share the PSD. The base layer is two straightened and cropped exposures combined, the other layers are just simple color and brightness tweaks.

This one's different from the two photos above, but it shouldn't take you much to get it looking like those if so desired (I had a change of mind how I wanted it to look, so the new PSD reflects that).

Here's the resulting JPEG from that PSD.

The photo isn't edited in any significant way - the colours just came out like this. It's cropped a little, I tweaked the contrast curve and white balance (because I found the original colours even more hideous), corrected lens distortion and chromatic aberrations, filtered out a little noise and sharpened it a little. I can't really do any post processing beyond that.
The only thing that comes to mind is that I should've used a wider aperture to avoid the stars around lights, but then I'd have to use a higher shutter speed which would probably cause some cars to appear in the picture. I prefer a couple of thin light streaks to whole cars.
I don't really "need" to save this picture, I'm just curious what somebody with the appropriate skills would do, because the church looks beautiful in real life and this picture just doesn't do justice to it.
Thanks for your help.

EDIT: RAW file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzGjKDqb7R8HdkhnazhKNUt4OGs/edit?usp=sharing

Thanks a lot for the help! My second draft can be found here, for anyone interested. Your explanation with the planes helped me a lot visualising how the lines should allign, even though it was a little hard to get everything right, as well as trying to think of it as 3d points in a 2d image, so to speak.

I really wanted to have the brown building in focus, because it looked really great to me with a miniature look, but you were right, I couldnt leave it in focus without screwing everything up, so I manually masked out all of the columns. I cleared up most of the bleeding with curve adjustments or hue/saturation layers where I drastically lowered the brightness, is there anything else I could do to get rid of it even more?

Oh, and I simply overlooked the top part of the cylinder, since I started of with a blur, a layer mask on top of it, and a gradient that I then tilted (so it would allign with the lines of the picture), so the top part got left out when I moved the gradient on the layer mask around. The transitions were a little too harsh, so I only used a soft edge brush to make it blend in a little better, I'll tilt the whole thing again once I'm done with the details.

Sorry I forgot to add a link to the RAW file.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4eqhorbQGTSX0hYUFB1Yzd1MHM/edit?usp=sharing

The only edit I made was cropping it so that the fingerboard would be more or less horizontal.

Hi /r/postprocessing. I'm very new to photography and post-processing. This is my first try at post processing a milky way shot (Canon 70D, Tokina 11-16 @2.8, 15'', ISO 3200).I use Darktable on Ubuntu 14.04, and essentially have no idea how to properly edit a shot. I played around with the sliders, but I'm pretty sure you guys have better ways to edit this picture and suggestions on how to better myself. The RAW can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0VjIunDiCAJVkQtdU5TM05zbTg/edit?usp=sharing

You can just tell me or check out a different DNG file. (terrible quality. Sun in the shot etc.)

Also, is this normal for RAW output from some cameras? All the examples I've seen don't have tints like mine.

Thanks mate, i started on Lightroom (if you want some time ago i did a tutorial about my workflow HERE) after that, I continue the work on Photoshop in this case i did a highlights mask with TK8 plugin and blurred it after i applied a Gradient Map

If you have other questions, ask without problems ;)

Some times ago I did a tutorial about my color grading

https://www.notion.so/Pink-Vibes-Lr-Ps-f001767055354ab7a8f07162e08077a9](https://www.notion.so/Pink-Vibes-Lr-Ps-f001767055354ab7a8f07162e08077a9)

I hope this can be useful for you, if you need anything else, ask I'll be happy to help you :)

>I love this! Can you explain a bit about what you did?

Sure, my english is poor but i hope to be understood, if you don't understand something let me notice :)
First of all I lowered the contrast (-24) and exposure to make the environment darker, slightly raised the higlights, the shadows and the whites, not the blacks.
Texture, Clarity, dehaze, vibrance and saturation to your taste, I only changed the clarity (-12) to accentuate the effect of the smoke.
HSL according to the photo and tones you want to edit it
Very high split toning in this case
Higlights saturation +60
Shadows saturation +30
Calibration also, I lowered the blues to -40 saturation and Hue to -60, the reds saturation to -10
This is a small summary if it may interest me some time ago I also published my workflow :) THERE

Hi mate, thank you!

Some time ago I did a guide on editing with (almost) the same tones the process is the same so take a look here: Pink Vibes, Tutorial

And Photo unedited :)

Hi mate, i did this tutorial some time ago at the end there is possibility to buy my 8 preset with a discount of 50%, only 5€.

Workflow in Lightroom

Sure, check out this page that was posted here a few weeks back. Pretty much at th end is where the gradient map is applied: https://www.notion.so/Pink-Vibes-Lr-Ps-Workflow-f001767055354ab7a8f07162e08077a9

Hope this will help you! :-)

Hi guys, after posting these photos on reddit in several people asked me for a guide on how to make this look and I decided to do a little tutorial, I hope it will be of help and inspiration for many of you

https://www.notion.so/Pink-Vibes-Lr-Ps-f001767055354ab7a8f07162e08077a9

Please be kind, if I have made a mistake or skipped something please let me know so I can improve.

You guys are awesome.

I am new to PS and had a little trouble figuring out exactly how to execute what you were saying.

I had another 12 photos to the pano that I wanted to stitch in, but my computer was struggling to stitch 24 together. I ended up stitching 4 sections of 6 photos together which actually ended up getting rid of the seams, then edited in LR, adjusted some stuff.

Clearly I need to get better at PS and LR, but, just for curiosity sake, here is my finished product.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/119416126@N08/14219918742/

Ravi, respect all your work and I love your style of editing. To be honest, I've been trying to crack it for the past day and I think I'm close :)

I'd love you to grace us with the original of this photo:

https://www.instagram.com/p/7Rklocj1yU/

Do you mean something like this? Cable Matters USB C to DisplayPort Adapter (USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter, USB C to DP Adapter) Supporting 8K 60Hz Black - Thunderbolt 4 / USB4 / Thunderbolt 3 Compatible with MacBook Pro, Dell XPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7ND921QC6J7DTNE6KXCV

I use a hub because I need various usb ports (mouse, keyboard and headsets) and I think that's what causing the issue. Or should I try a cable like this before changing the hub? Cable Matters USB C to DisplayPort 1.4 Cable (USB-C to DisplayPort Cable, USB C to DP Cable) Supporting 8K 60Hz in Black 6 ft - Thunderbolt 4 /USB4 /Thunderbolt 3 Compatible with MacBook Pro Dell XPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J6DT070/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RBHTF8CJJ59664JNZ1FZ

I tried out Gimp (Thanks dkman22!) and it's kind of complicated (for me). I did find one video that simplifies what I'm trying to do. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJvKPgCHof8&feature=share It only combines three images, so you'd have to be sure to get one shot that is mostly exposed well, one that is exposed for the darkest areas, and one exposed for the brightest areas. This worked okay.

I also found HDRpad, which makes it all extremely simple and combines more than three images, so you can shoot lots of images over and underexposed and HDRpad automatically blends them with an okay result. http://download.cnet.com/HDRpad/3000-12511_4-75335523.html#editorsreview

I think I'll stick with HDRpad for now, unless I find something better. It does the job I wanted it to do without much room for newbie error.

Click the photo for full resolution :)

Original photo can be found here: https://pixabay.com/photos/person-road-street-buildings-rain-5843476/

You can download my version here if you like it! https://imgur.com/a/d38Rhb4

Close! It's the Catawaba Valley and some other parts I'm less sure of in the blue ridge. I took it from Macfee's Knob. It's a pretty good hike if you live nearby! Here's the rest of the view https://www.flickr.com/photos/bfunder94/14102696961/

Thanks for the reply. I didnt sharpen yet, this is usually my last step before exporting. And then its usually a highpass-overlay-layer with 1.8-1.9px on the eyes and mouth.
Which part of her face do you mean by being a bit cold? Can you elaborate on that?

The head angle was intended because I got already soooo many pictures of her - and theres only so much you can do to "spice up" / make it different when taking portraits. As you can see on my 500px profile all my portraits look almost the same (pose wise). But I dont have the space for full body shots :(

It's one of those things that maybe if you hadn't brought it up, I wouldn't have noticed it, but the snow in the mountains looks too bright against the cloud cover. Like in these pictures, the snow is a darker grey or here where the snow has a bluish tinge. The snow should be almost reflecting the sky above it.

>thank you for your feedback - as someone who is just getting into photography and editing, what would you say is a color that compliments the green? - i did read that red does, but i cant see how?

You can use the instrument from here. This instrument can provide analogues and complement colors.

I am in the process of getting some retouching work into my portfolio to apply for a contract position editing photos of jewelry. The work will include retouching skin, outfits, hands, jewels and metal. This is the first image I've specifically done for the application.

I am looking for feedback regarding all aspects of this image--skin tone, texture, and whatever else that may come to mind. I was not the photographer and got this image from here.

I used frequency separation and a dodge/burn layer to touch up the skin and used a combination of techniques to try and reduce the number of flyaway hairs in the image, while keeping a few so it looked more realistic. The skintone in the original stock photo had a bit of green cast, so I also tweaked the tones of the skin with a curves layer in Photoshop.

Thanks!

When using a film camera, a double exposure would mean not winding the film after taking a picture and then taking another one, so that the single film square would contain the images from more than one photograph. You could combine this to do some really cool stuff with it. The term "double exposure" just means "exposing the same piece of film to light twice". With digital there's no film, so the sensor records the light data to memory then if it has built in double exposure capabilities it combines the second image with the first.

Here's some examples of how it can turn out https://www.flickr.com/groups/double_exposure/

You can probably find Photoshop on any torrent site, if you don't want to pirate you can use Photopea it's pretty much the same as Photoshop, you can run it on your browser, you'll find most of the tools.

Thank you so much! You put into more plain words what ianinmf was trying to say. The example you gave was more than helpful. Here's what I came up with with another set of photos.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6t0izevxpr7fta5/composite.png

Thank you so much again!

I was never satisfied with my calibration with the manufacturers software. Give DisplayCal a try, you've got nothing to lose, but I found it always gave a near perfect match, even between radically different displays.

Buy second hand device that is not supported on modern operating systems but which is supported by 3rd party software like DisplayCAL. See list of supported devices by DisplayCAL here.

I have obtained my calibration device for ~$35. Not supported by original software on Windows>7 but working fine with DisplayCAL.

I have found UFRaw almost imposable to use in practice. I'm sure that it is a capable piece of software, but it doesn't seem geared-up for photographers.

As well as Raw Therapee, I would also recommend checking out RawStudio.

If you don't want to download any software and want a pretty simple way to create a collage, try using picnik. They have a collage maker on that link, though I personally haven't tried it myself.

Very similar: https://creativemarket.com/victoriabee/3308168-NEW%21-Mobile-Lightroom-Preset-BAILEYS

With minor edits, you could get 100 % exact result. I'd consider buying it, look at what adjustments it does and edit to your liking.

Here's a tutorial that shows how to do this in Lightroom: https://creativemarket.com/blog/2014/07/14/how-to-achieve-that-crushed-black-film-look-in-photoshop-and-lightroom

In their example, as in your photo, the blacks have been crushed (they're uniform rather than a gradient), but their tone has been brightened (which is why they use a curve).

The noise reduction applied to this one is too heavy. The one you originally submitted has more noise and details, but has a lower resolution. If you have Photoshop, you can try Nik define and see how far you want to remove noise vs how much details to keep.

I bought v3 of Detail back in the day, and I've used ReMask through version 5.

They each did their job well, and the UX was decent, but I haven't used either in a couple years though.

Between LR, Nik and Photoshop's improved selection tools. I rarely feel like I need to reach for another 3rd party plugin anymore.

I'm with /u/WhiteRabbitPhotoshop If Adobe hasn't already suckered you in to their Photoshop subscription you should check out the Nik collection first since it's free, powerful and reasonably intuitive.

If, and only if, you still can't achieve the look you're going for efficiently then the Topaz plugins are worth it.

Just my 2¢.

PS Nik may not be free forever since it's been acquired by DxO, and it's back in active development. It's still downloadable via Google's site, so grab it just in case. https://www.google.com/nikcollection/

haha this was hard to find. Here is the link to the Acorn software website and a review

No longer true.

https://topazlabs.com/ai-gigapixel/

Uses machine learning to figure out what the new pixels should be, based on a large corpus of existing photos. Does a pretty nice job of 3x'ing many different types of subject matter in my experience.

I've got a separate one I just recently started for photo work, but my stuff is usually not very exciting since I do mostly product stuff.

@kgennarophotography

@trwolfie (https://www.instagram.com/trwolfie)

I'm a rock climber, so I like to take pictures of rock and stuff. I'm also a freerunner, so there are a couple of action videos. I recently got a decent camera, so there's some general nature/wildlife shots more recently. :)

darktable has a module to do this https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/module-reference/processing-modules/color-mapping/

Darktable has a "framing" module for doing this: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/module-reference/processing-modules/framing/

What software are you currently using for raw development or post processing? There's a decent chance it already had the functionality.

Hello,

You could give a shot to Darktable or RawTherapee, both work on Linux, Mac and Windows and are free.

I've tested both when I was looking for a free alternative to Lightroom.

As I said in the previous comment, there's usually multiple ways to deal with something in Darktable. For color work, you may want to look at the modules color zones, color correction (highlights and sadows), and color balance (kinda like split toning, but more powerful). There's also color look up table in case you want to target a specific color. If you don't find these you may need to enable them in the more modules options on the bottom right corner.

There's a whole user manual for DT, which explains the modules and their use cases as well, but probably use this when you feel your way around it, because it's very daunting at first.

• Affinity Photo is a good Adobe Photoshop alternative.

• Affinity Designer is a good Adobe Illustrator alternative. (For vector work)

You need a program that will do photo stacking such as Photoshop or Affinity Photo. With either program you can import the group of photos and it will automatically align them, creating a single image which will have reduced noise levels. Here is a tutorial on how to do it in Affinity; also the program is on sale right not for $35 which is a steal for everything it does.

GIMP will allow you to see the effects of jpeg compression if you want, but I’m not sure if it’s “lightweight” enough for what you want? You could try it and see if works well for you (https://www.gimp.org/downloads/).

https://www.wetransfer.com/downloads/b71d7e61530eed787c68d2e6c794185e20161120170014/d306b17c14062efcab5f757d93d5a6e120161120170014/8cb809

here's some recent images that i've been trying to get the same look. I know that there's some differences in clothing and lighting so it's not going to look exactly the same, but i can seem to even get close. I'll take your advice and look at some film color grading tuts, because i agree, there's not a lot of great online tutorials on photo editing.

I look forward to seeing your go on these if you have the chance!

I use exifrenamer and throw my DSC_6789.NEF files at it. It works flawlessly, has a preview mode of what it will do, and a fairly expressive way of renaming files. It can even time shift to normalize for time-zone issues.

I've got it configured to rename said files (say it was taken on 2015-01-10 at 12:34:56) to 20150110-123456-6789.NEF. This practically gives me a unique identifier across multiple cameras, even on the same shoot.

I don't know an automated way to do this, the only solution I'd come up with would be writing a program in processing that does this pretty much manually. Either way I'm curious, what do you need this for if I may ask.

Cool when you can apply several filters at the same time like in the Laika app cool when you can apply several filters at the same time like in the Laika app Laika AI Photo Edtior

Try The Image Processing Handbook

Thank you, it was just a cheap generic small LED panel I bought from Amazon years ago.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=led+panel&qid=1586887778&sprefix=led+panel&sr=8-15

This is the closest that comes to it without looking too hard

Honestly pretty much any modern IPS display nowadays from a reputable brand will be fine, especially for non-professional work. Dell, LG, BenQ are the names you'll see most often at a consumer level.

Another thing to keep in mind is resolution. A lot of people have issues with 1920x1080 on anything larger than a 25" monitor because the individual pixels start to become more noticeable. Unfortunately a jump in resolution also means a jump in price though.

I'm currently rocking this but I got it on sale a couple months ago.

Looks like there is room for 1 additional stick of ram, you can get something like this to double the amount available: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-PC3L-12800-SODIMM-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511889953&sr=8-1&keywords=ddr3l1600+sdram

Though, what you could do is opening up the task manager when you have Spotify and LR/PS open and see how much RAM you have left. This will tell you if RAM is indeed a problem (I suspect it is, as LR/PS uses a lot of RAM).

Another contributor to the issue would be the 1TB HDD. Usually laptop hard drives are spin slower and thus the lower read/write speeds. When your laptop runs out of memory, Windows will attempt to use your hard drive as memory swap, since the hard drive is slow as well then you are waiting a long time and Spotify would stutter due to lack of memory and slow read/write.

So here's what you could do:

1. Add an additional 8GB of RAM.

2. Purchase a SSD, something like (I'm not familiar with UK prices, may want to shop around):https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P73B1E4/ref=twister_B013ZJ4EWC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

3. If you do get the SSD, what do you do with the 1TB that you had before? Two options: external enclosure, so you can use it as a portable, or get rid of your DVD drive and buy an adapter to put your 1TB drive where your DVD drive used to be.

With the suggestions above, you'll end up spending probably close to your $300 limit, but no new laptop :(. I did have a look on Amazon and the closest laptop that's got 16GBs of RAM and 512GB SSD is selling for about $800, though it does have better graphics card and CPU. Though refurbished laptops are selling for $450 to $700, maybe you can consider those, but be wary of the warranty.

I'm not sure if there are any books in digital image post-processing written at academic level...

But books by Dan Margulis certainly come close to that. It was recommended by a veteran photographer following a conversation on color theory in photography. It's not free though.

Also, I don't think you'll get any in-depth academic stuff in the form of books without paying. You certainly can try searching for academic papers but these are likely to be on experimental topics.

Thinking that you might benefit from one of these.

Calibrate, then look at your previous attempts.