What are
/r/Beginning_Photography's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Beginning_Photography:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Beginning_Photography:
GIMP
Affinity Photo
darktable
Shutterstock
digiKam
Facebook Marketplace
Slickdeals
Unsplash
Hugin
Stellarium
AlternativeTo
Weblium
Jet.com
Rocketr
Netlify
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Beginning_Photography:
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom CC
Canon Camera Connect
The most popular reviews in /r/Beginning_Photography:
Lightroom actually serves a different purpose than GIMP. GIMP is more akin to Photoshop. If you're look for free and/or open-source software, you could check out Raw Therapee or DarkTable if you're on Linux or Mac.
35mm f1.8 lense. Best all purpose lense you can buy. $166 on Amazon right now which is actually a really good price.
Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2PPT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0MknAb6CPCJ62
As far as rain or dust goes. You can either (depneding on budget) just use some plastic bags/trash bags to cover your camera or get an actual cover. I usually keep these one time use sleeves in my bag just in case. This is probably the best option considering you are just getting into photography i assume. Further down the line when you get more into it, you could get a legitimate rain sleeve for your gear.
As far as temperatures go, modern DSLRs are very tolerant of weather for the most part. Usually can operate in below freezing or above 90 degree weather. The best thing would be to read your user manual though. That should give you a safe temp range. Usually, you'll be fine if you stick close to that range. Going a bit outside of it won't hurt the camera.
When it comes to humidity. Generally speaking you shouldn't have a problem with this unless you are changing temps very rapidly. Even then you'll rarely have a problem, but to be safe you could stick a few of those silica dry packets into your camera bag. I have a few friends that do that when they go out to shoot in snowy/icy conditions.
Sounds like you moved rather than copied those pics. If you have them copied to your pc then just look at their exif data (right-click, properties, data from your filemanager). If you've lost all your pics then:
Your shot composition is nice. Got a good sense of how to frame and keep it interesting.
I'm learning as well and here's what I am doing to get the basics.
I bought the book Stunning Digital Photography by Tony Northrup. Kindle edition is 10 bucks and comes with videos. It will get you a good grasp of the basics (rule of thirds, lighting, etc...)
I also watched a tutorial on my Camera OM-D E-M10 from Tony as well. His tutorials are a good overview of the features of a camera. Here's one for your model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmWBW8aZSS0
And I also bought classes at http://kelbyone.com/ for 10 or 15 bucks a month. If your diligent, you can probably make your way through them all in one month. Very helpful to get another viewpoint of the basics.
Affinity photo... $49. It's not Photoshop, but it can do much of the same processes, and it's designed to take advantage of modern CPUs and gpus, which is more than I can say for Photoshop. Definitely worth trying out.
Well not tying, but generally a tripod will have a hook on the bottom that you can attach a weight too aka your backpack. Check out the hook on the bottom. At least that's what I do.
Now for tripod recommendations, what is your budget? If you don't want to spend a lot, want the tripod to take on this vacation & last a few months, then i'd just recommend the amazon basics tripod in the link above.
If price is not an issue to you (it might be considering wowair and not wanting to pay for checked baggage lol) you can get this. Same extended height as amazon's, but it is more compact when closed. Amazon closes at 25", manfrotto closes at 17".
There are a lot of affordable options on Amazon. The two items below both come in at less than 3.5lbs and are within your desired height range. Carbon fiber will be lighter than aluminum and will dampen vibrations better, so I think its worth extra cost if you'll be biking/hiking with it.
There is a free lightroom app for iphone and android that incorporates a lot that you can do on the full computer version. Filters in other apps are a great shortcut, but you can check out how manipulating different aspects of the image like exposure, clarity, saturation, etc change the final image and see what you like. Lightroom is what a lot of pros use for post-processing (again... I am far from a pro).
It's all a matter of viewing distance, like you mentioned. A few years back there was an iPhone campaign where they shot full billboards using an iPhone. The DPI was very low, but they were always being viewed from hundreds of feet away from the freeway. But if you want a large image that people will see from very close, then you must have enough pixels to achieve both large size and high DPI. Either shoot with a high-megapixel camera like the Fuji GFX100 (102 megapixels), use film, or just don't worry about the DPI since large images aren't typically viewed from that close.
That being said, a 24 megapixel image printed at 5' by 3' (about 70 diagonal inches) would print at about 100dpi according to this calculator, which isn't too bad really!
The 102MP Fuji sensor (11,648 x 8,736) would print this same size at 208dpi.
This d3400 bundle is a pretty good deal https://slickdeals.net/f/10098120-nikon-d3400-dslr-camera-18-55mm-vr-70-300mm-f-4-5-6-3g-ed-lenses-refurb-380-after-20-rebate-free-shipping?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1
You could add a 35mm f1.8 or 50mm f1.8 and still be under $600.
If by photography business you also mean stock photography business, check out my YouTube channel. I'm making a series of videos on how to sell photos online, since I'm doing it since 2008, and I started as a noob. http://www.youtube.com/IvanPaunovicDreamframer
Thi is my portfolio on Shutterstock, my best selling stock photo agency: https://www.shutterstock.com/g/Dreamframer
Nikon View NX2 and Capture NX-D are free to download from Nikon USA.
I have abandoned those for Adobe CC, Photoshop and Lightroom for $9.99/month, but Nikon software does work.
Then there is Gimp. https://www.gimp.org/
Just for fun, I downloaded GIMP and played around with it a little. It's cantankerous to use, but it gets the job done.
I found this tutorial, which features a good technique for achieving the shadow-lightening you are going for. I used it and was able to do this, which transformed it ever-so-slightly. Couldn't do much with the version of your photo that I downloaded, but if you shot in RAW or have a higher-quality version with better shadow detail, the method in the tutorial may work. I think, though, that there just isn't enough detail in the shadows to be able to pull anything out at all- the image is exposed for the highlights, and the shadows just have no detail left.
As far as overall critique, I think the image could be cropped over on the left to reduce some of the weight of all that dark, featureless area. Shooting a the same thing RAW and/or bracketing the shot would let you go back later and merge the correctly-exposed parts of the image with HDR or similar.
The pose is a little stiff- I'd have your subject turn their head a little more towards the light slightly to pick up skeletal and skin detail on the right side of the face. Maybe relax the shoulders, and turn them slightly as well.
The bright leaves at the bottom of the frame are a little distracting.
For the price, and the fact Im just starting out, you cant beat the Amazon Basics DSLR Backpack. Quality and design have held up great for me.
AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Cameras and Accessories - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VPE1WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RJXSybDA2K3DX
Its a little more than your budget (by $20) but I recently picked up Rangers 57” with ball head from Amazon for my a5100. Its bit heavier/longer when closed than my preference because I want to take it for hiking and travel, but not actually bad when secured in my bad. Its pretty great with solid metal parts and sturdy, including a hook to hang weights to increase the stability. It also has a leg that can be detached and used as a monopod as needed. If especially for indoor and stationary subject it should more than meed your needs and should last quite a while. And unlike some cheaper tripods it does also have 2 bubble levels (one for landscape and one for portrait orientation) which are a plus. Only things not present that I can think of, but you wouldn't need necessarily, are feet spikes, a longer arm for aiming and a built in remote.
You can find some for cheaper, but I did a lot of research into that and this one actually even swayed me over some more expensive ones. Its a tripod that is of solid construction to where I think you'll only have to upgrade because your needs or finances change for a really solid price.
The Nikon D3400 has Bluetooth, and would be a fantastic entry level camera. As this is a current model, you probably won't find many used, but it's relatively inexpensive ($400 for basic kit on Amazon).
I started with the D3100 and moved up to a higher model body. It'll do all of the core DSLR type photos you want, then you can decide to upgrade when the time is right. I'm sure there is a comparable Canon model as well.
I use https://www.amazon.de/Wireless-Trigger-Speedlite-Universell-Olympus/dp/B00CM9UK3Y or https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U from US amazon myself. They are cheap, and haven't caused me any issues. And they are cheap enough that if something happens to them, I can just buy another set. Now I do use manual flashes, so these do not handle TTL or allow you to adjust settings remotely, but I prefer simplicity, so there is less to go wrong.
Thanks for the reply! I've found several 50mm 1.8 lenses on Amazon that are significantly cheaper. Like this one:
And this one is even more inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-Aperture-Cameras-EACHSHOT-Cleaning/dp/B01HEZK95Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540073786&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=50mm+nikon+lens&psc=1
Is the quality of the image significantly better with the one you recommended? Can I take pictures like the ones I posted above with one of the less expensive lenses, or do you really recommended the one you linked on BestBuy?
Thanks so much for the help!
I have the Amazon basic version of this and its pretty great. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-SM1603111P-Camera-Sling-Bag/dp/B01FRDSAYW/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=amazonbasics&qid=1554153202&rnid=493964&s=electronics&sr=1-11
Here’s a dirt cheap clone of the cam link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089YF1K2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ejemFb94E9M22
I bought one off of eBay and it has a bit of a delay (like 400ms) but you can fix that in your streaming software. HIGHLY recommend for the price
I had a great piece of kit that I ended up losing in a river several weeks ago when my canoe tipped over...
It was a Nikon D3300 w/ Sigma 17-50 F2.8. I don't think there is a lens that gives you better bang for the buck, and it is exclusive to crop sensors and decently priced at 300 bucks give or take.
I like how you are looking to mirrorless, and I would absolutely go Sony mirrorless if I was getting started, but unfortunately, there's a not a 3rd party that does a 17-50 equivalent and so all you have is the sony lens which runs you like $1200 alone - YIKES!
I am a Nikon man because that's where my journey led me, but I would look to canon for their superior auto-focus in DSLRs (also articulating screens are more common on their crop models) and pick up the sigma lens. One of their crop sensor DSLRs from the last few years should all be relatively the same.
Good luck!
Ah thank you. That simplifies it for me... So for this listing... https://jet.com/product/Nikon-50mm-f18D-AF-Lens-Import-for-Nikon-DSLR-Cameras-I3ePro-BP-CC-Microfiber-Cl/34a16819bfce4c9e9b7abda1e3743380 They should have also included the D5500 in the list of unsupported AF devices.
First off and camera is better than no camera if you want to take pictures. I think it depends on your learning style but I learned mostly all the beginner stuff I know through YouTube and going out and practicing. Then from there I met local photographers and tagged along to learn more tips and tricks. If that wouldn't work for you, there are classes(Ones i've seen seem to be over priced). And tons of books. I have a few books, but I founds this one most helpful. And I used these tutorials.
You can buy one of these big light reflectors, point warm light to it and you should get a gold look.
couple of suggestions
- change the title of your post - 'question' doesn't really say anything since pretty much every post on here is a question
- doesn't really matter what camera you get if you are just starting out. The basic controls and the techniques used to take a good photo are pretty much the same for all of them.
- You can get something like a canon rebel T7 brand new with a lens for under $500 https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Rebel-T7-18-55mm-II/dp/B07C2Z21X5/
- However, if you want a point and shoot - then just stick with your phone. There's really no point in getting a dslr or mirrorless camera if you just want something that you are going to keep in auto mode all the time. If you want to learn how to adjust the camera yourself and if you want to edit the photos rather then having the camera do all the edits, then forget about point and shoot. Look at something like the camera I linked to - doesn't have to be that specific one. That's just an example of a good camera you can get, new, with a lens, in your budget.
- I would look up some tutorials on exposure theory BEFORE you buy a camera. Right now you are asking to buy the equipment before you even know what any of it is used for. There should be a sticky post on this forum with some links to beginner tutorials. Or google one. You should at least understand how shutter speed, aperture, and ISO affect your image. Once you know at least that much, then you should have a little better idea of what you might want/need.
- The 'film simulation' is something you can do when you edit the photo. Has nothing to do with the camera. That's also something else you should look into - post-processing. Again - if you don't want to edit your own photos and just want to apply filters, I wouldn't bother getting a camera. I'd just stick with your smartphone.
I am transferring the photos by pulling the card and uploading through a card reader.
No, VR is on when I am on the tripod.
The cardinal picture was through a window, but the blue bird was not.
There is a B+W UV Filter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BZLCL) to keep me from scratching up the lens.
Look at the camera. As others pointed out why such I high ISO? If you don't know the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture then grab Bryan Peterson's book Understanding Exposure. It's easy to read, good examples.
Knowing you're not going to make a silk purse from a sow's ear you may as well learn from it. Looking at your pic... you have brights you want to darken and you have darks you want to brighten. Read some tutorials, watch some youtube videos. The burnt whites in the sky show why you just can't punch up the exposure level. A contrast mask is a good method to darken the brights and lighten the darks, introduces you to colour curves, and gets you comfortable with layers.
I hate to bounce around software but lots of tutorials for the gimp:
Contrast Mask. https://www.gimp.org/tutorials/ContrastMask/
Colour curves. https://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Basic_Color_Curves/
Once you darken your brights and brighten your darks you then adjust the individual curves to pull up or pull down the highs/mids/low. A little bit goes a long ways. Lets make an arbitrary rule and say 90% of the time you never want to go further than one graduate and half a graduate often gets you all the bang for your buck.
That's Ok, actually. You can still pull EXIF data from the image after it's saved to the computer. See if you can find it. It will tell you the exact shot settings that the camera used.
Im going to use this as a reference for some practice this weekend, thank you!
I would say I am about 4 feet away from my subject but it varies because my location is always different.
I am using this 90mm neewar soft box for my key light and I always feel like it is too harsh. The subject always look way to shiny. Is this fine to use as a key light soft box or is it just how I’m using it?
Neewer 36 inches/90 centimeters Photography Portable Speedlite Flash Hexadecagon Softbox with Bowens Mount Compatible with Neewer CB60 CB100 CB150, Aputure 300D II 120D and Other Bowens Mount Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTI9QBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EEZ2M31B80TMRNFMVGTV?psc=1
As I suggested, pick a camera that you can afford - there is no "right" camera for beginners. Look for one that allows you to shoot in Auto and manual modes. Using Auto mode allows you to focus on learning what makes a good photo. After you get more experienced, you can utilize Manual mode and manipulate the camera to enhance your photographic skills.
Most DSLRs allow you to choose to save your images in RAW or JPG format (or both at the same time). On my Nikon, it is called Image Quality and I have the choice of using RAW, RAW & JPEG or JPEG (Fine, Normal & Basic compression). I have mine set to RAW Fine - it saves the image in both formats.
Save for cropping, I don't mess around with my images all that much: with digital imagery, I can afford to take as many images as I like to get things the way I want. But it's nice to have the option of editing so Irfanview and Paint.NET both are installed on my PC. I download them from https://ninite.com/ to be safe from PUPS.
There are several popular options for free and paid image editing software. I listed some of them above.
One thing I cannot stress enough is backing up all your images. Don't save everything on one or two SD cards. I have copies of copies. I also save my images on my PC AND I have an air-gapped external HDD drive that I use to backup all my images.
The hardware you need can be pricey such as the Spyder Pro by datacolor.
However, the software you should use is open source (free to use), which is DisplayCal. There are various tutorials on YouTube as well as documentation on the main website for the program. Regardless of which hardware you use that program is the way to go.
Ok, so the best would be to have food nicely lit. The light is important when you take photos of the food. Also, be sure that the surface the food is on is clean and nice. It can be just a white background, or tabel, or anything you want, but it has to be clean. There is nothing worse than seeing dust, dirt, or God forbid somebody's hair close to the food (and trust me, it happens lol) Then, during the editing make sure to add some vibrance on yellow, orange, red and green colors, and if shadows are too harsh add some light to them as well. Some inspiration: https://www.shutterstock.com/search?search_source=base_landing_page&language=en&searchterm=food&image_type=all
You will get better answers than my own so I'll kick out:
Brian Peterson's line of books are good. Understanding Exposure being my favourite; past that, you want to look at everyones.
I have an old black and white photography book that's interesting but predates isbn so sorry, talks alot about contrast which is good for both color and b&w.
Hugin's (http://hugin.sourceforge.net/) gallery has some ideas, if you wade through, https://www.flickr.com/photos/wimjee/44263432700/ .
I'll second the wrong tool for the job. But, I don't have the prints infront of me either.
>... well above my scanner size (up to 18 x 24 inches).
That's only four 8.5"x11" taped together. If you don't want to spend money then:
-- Scanner. Scan section and then stitch them together. Hugin, enblend actually, will do that easily (only x & y shift) so I'm sure your lightroom and such can do the same.
http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/scans/en.shtml
-- Camera. Maybe a grey card and/or colour chips in frame to adjust the curves. Any DSLR who will save in RAW format is an advantage over what you have but, is also disadvantaged when compared to a scanner.
I googled and found resplashed but it looks like maybe you meant the Resplash app which goes to Unsplash. Can you tell us what you like about it?
Sorry how about https://www.darktable.org/install/#windows
Alternate to Lightroom, free and open source Gimp also free open source a formidable combination. I haven't seen any of your work so I can't offer any suggestions.
If you're open to play the try digikam (linux). All major distros should have a kde spin.
Late Edit. Damn, /u/georgy_boy beat me to digikam. Shotwell might scratch the itch in gnome.
I'm not a fan of the monthly subscription model for Adobe Lightroom, so I use ACDSee Ultimate 10 for digital asset management and most of my editing. Anything that requires more advanced correction I'll take into Affinity Photo.
I had a d5100 which is next step from the d3400. quality of pictures are only slightly better than some of the high end phones. If you dont want to spend much maybe you should buy her a set of phone lenses and a $50 (one time purchase) of affinity photo , a lot cheaper than photoshop, so she can edit her pics.
I have made my portfolio on Weblium. They have a ready template for photographer portfolio. Looks great. https://weblium.com/photography-website-templates
Cool when you can apply several filters at the same time like in the Laika app cool when you can apply several filters at the same time like in the Laika app Laika AI Photo Edtior
Cool when you can apply several filters at the same time like in the Laika app cool when you can apply several filters at the same time like in the Laika app Laika AI Photo Edtior
>105mm Nikon macro
Or, what about the Nikon AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G Close-up Lens for Nikon DSLR Cameras I am just trying to stay in this price range hahaha
This is the same situation that led me to buy the Nikon D5600 I believe I got it for about $700 on Amazon and it came with a kit lens and also a zoom lens that goes up to 300mm perfect for newbies like myself, I took it to the zoo and it takes good pictures of you leave it on “P” mode while you learn the ropes, it is a very easy camera to pick up and learn and it has an articulated screen that you can rotate any way. As far as the perfect pictures you’re expecting. It can be done with lots of practice and worse case scenario you can use Lightroom for any mobile phone. The D5600 has built in Bluetooth so you can download pictures straight to your phone and edit them if you want. I’ve had it for a year now and I’m getting better at it. I would recommend that camera if it’s on your price range. It’s also fairly small and don’t weigh much. So perfect for you to carry around your hiking trips.
Edit* this is the bundle I got, but I got it much cheaper last year for $700.
Nikon D5600 DSLR with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR and 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR2D0OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3J0AHV72HWVGBCFKNTQA
Thank you very much! Found it on amazon. It's:
"Movo BWS1000 Blimp Microphone Windshield Mount and Vibration Protection System for Shotgun Microphones"
u/valltekk Just to chime in with my limited experience but hours upon hours of researching tripods, I agree, don't go too cheap. I was going to get an Amazon Basics tripod, they had it listed as a bestseller with like 4k reviews...until I read the 1 star reviews. Tons of people complaining about an arm or other failure causing the tripod to collapse and smash their gear.
I ended up getting a Manftotto 290 light, it's aluminum and can only hold 8 lbs of gear but it's also half the price.
I also bought some portrait lights that were super cheap, like $50 for three stands and two umbrellas. They're not bad for the price but I recently got a speedlite and a mount for that and they are too flimsy to hold it and the softbox. Keep in mind though, the speedlite and softbox are a lot heavier than the lights and fixtures it comes with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the Amazon Tripod and I love it. It weights next to nothing. It costs $23. I've used it a lot and never had any problems.
AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Cameras and Accessories - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VPE1WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s8fUyb3KS1A59 I've been rocking the amazon basics for years and I love it personally! Also I vape a lot (ya of course I'm gay) but I love the waterproof pouches so I can store juice and shit on hikes without it leaking onto my camera gear
Pentax K-50 is weather-sealed and dust reiststant. $425 for body and lens on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Pentax-Digital-Camera-18-55mm-f3-5-5-6/dp/B00DBPKAAG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1489365495&sr=1-2&keywords=pentax+k-50
The first thing I wouldn't buy, whatever fluid it comes with is probably unnecessary. I'd get something with a lens pen, they're hella convenient, brush on one side, other side for greasy smudges. You can just throw the lens pen in your pocket when you go shoot as well. A blower can be very useful as well, but since it's not too practical to put the blower in your pocket, I wouldn't get a blower that's combined with your brush. This cleaning kit is really good for the money since it comes with sensor cleaners as well Altura Photo Professional Cleaning Kit for DSLR Cameras and Sensors Bundle with APS-C Sensor Cleaning Swabs and Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWNEUIM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nlgezbZ3SBK65 I had bought just the brush and blower for like $8, but I wish I had seen that and got it instead. As far as filters, many people, myself included, just buy uv filters and leave them on all the time for protection. They will prevent dust from getting on the front element of your lens, but that just means it'll get on the filter instead... I wouldn't buy Polaroid ones though as they usually make shit. The Amazon basics ones are pretty cheap though and seem to be working well for me. I wouldn't bother buying lens hoods separately, just use your hand if you need it.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
I have the Vanguard Alta Pro 264AB which I love. They have several to choose from. I bought mine on amazon. Great quality and price. I read alot of reviews and watched alot of you tube reviews on it before I bought it. Happy hunting.
> Any advice is appreciated just for fun.
Sorry for the amazon link. I couldn't google anything elsewhere. Google's almost useless but, I digress.
Bryan Peterson, Understanding Exposure.
https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Photographs-Camera/dp/0817439390
Late Edit: Looks like he's pushed a fourth edition. You probably want the fourth.
I had a spot on almost ever photo I was taking on my Nikon, see this picture, sorry for the low imgur quality but you should see the spot I circled. Not sure if it is the same as you are getting...
I bought this cleaning kit on Amazon had to do the cleaning twice, no more spots!
Can you link me to the Amazon product page for this? I can't seem to find it; I can only find this one, which is the same price as the D3500 with kit lens.
Cool, do you think maybe something like one of the below options on Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K8WY2YR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A18MRNVFP6GLO6&psc=1
Ha thanks I had a feeling that may be the case. Not to push Amazon (only reason I'd like to use them if possible is BC i have a $400 credit there)
These seem more basic/along the lines of essentials only if you'd take a quick look?
I have the Amazon basic version of this and its pretty great. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-SM1603111P-Camera-Sling-Bag/dp/B01FRDSAYW/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=amazonbasics&qid=1554153202&rnid=493964&s=electronics&sr=1-11
Second the Canon M50! Also, once you get used to the kit lens look into the EF-M 22mm lens. Perfect for portraits and more Depop-style shoots.
I have had great experiences with this LimoStudio light set. Perfect for products, photos, videos, streaming, etc.
​
Idk if David Busch has one for that particular model, but I've used his books for a couple of cameras and they've been much more helpful than the official user's manual. You can skim or skip if you already some stuff, but it's well worth the 4 hours to learn your camera inside and out.
You have to be careful going too wide. The Grand Canyon is already a wide vista, so the temptation to use an ultra-wide is there, but it's already a pretty wide angle with your normal field of view. The wider angle the lens, the further away it makes things look. The further away the smaller.
You may find that you want something more telephoto to get more dramatic shots. If i could only take one lens on a 1.5x crop body, I would probably want a 24mm lens (36mm effective). Then I would perhaps stitch together a multi-frame panoramic. Even your 50mm lens (75mm effetive) can be used to take multiple frames and then stitch them together.
The 10-24 is an effective 15-36mm and that could be a good choice. The 16-85mm is little above your budget: https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-16-85mm-3-5-5-6G-Vibration-Reduction/dp/B0013A1XDE
But that's an effective 24-128mm lens which is fairly wide angle to moderate telephoto, and gives you more flexibility to get a variety of shots. You would hate going on a trip like that and basically cmoe back with only ultra-wide angle images.
Personally I don’t like dedicated camera bags.
I like this insert that can go I to any backpack. Holds my pentax k3 and the 24-70 with extra batteries and card holder.
Tenba BYOB 9 Camera Insert - Gray/Black (636-222) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KT7GJGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yzmlFb7DGTGVM
My lens goes in here before the insert
(3 Pack) Altura Photo Thick Protective Neoprene Pouch Set for DSLR Camera Lens (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Olympus, Panasonic) - Includes: Small, Medium and Large Pouches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ZM95E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XBmlFbVTM7BPJ
Not different focal lengths. You should keep the same focal length and physically move the camera.
Use one of these:
I just got the Amazon Basics holster and love it; also my light carry everywhere camera is the Panasonic g7 with lumix 14mm lens.
About a month ago, I picked up this LowePro Truckee pack for around $28 on Amazon. It's a normal backpack, not a sling, but it's quite small and minimal, and will hold one camera and up to 3 lenses. There's a water bottle pouch on the side, a laptop sleeve on the inside, and room for a change of clothes or other small personal belongings.
I use this thing all the time for day trips when I'm going into the city or on a short adventure. It's currently $23. No idea why it's so cheap because it's a trusted brand and the bag is quality. For that price you absolutely can't go wrong.
Idk how well it would do for Milky Way shots but I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the portraits this cheap lens I got off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E38TZDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C7yVEbQGK6RH1
This is the one I have. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1403803-REG/neewer_10081788_nw670_ttl_single_flash.html/amp
This is the one I’m looking at getting for the primary or secondary flash. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Camera-50DT3I-Cameras/dp/B00E3K94T6
Even if buying from SanDisk directly? Didn’t know there was much of a difference in SD cards but I found out it’s good to have smaller ones than one large one in case of failure etc
SanDisk Ultra 32GB Class 10 SDHC UHS-I Memory Card up to 80MB/s (SDSDUNC-032G-GN6IN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143RT8OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HWZLDbKTHD4WG
I have a 35mm 1.8 prime lens and a sigma 17-50 2.8 as my set up. They’re both crisp lenses and allow me to get most of the pictures I want to obtain. The low aperture allows for a nice bokeh. With the crop factor the 35mm is closer to a 50mm and the sigma is closer to a 25-75 which gives you a good range, not too wide or too zoomed in. The sigma is on sale at amazon for around 290.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A6NU3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p8EzDbZF2WVH1
I do what the other redditor does: backups in NAS RAID 1 ( two hard drives in mirror so you have same info in both). You can find one of 2TB for like $300 on eBay and this gives you a lot of peace of mind. Mine is this one but there are many options out there WD 4TB My Cloud EX2 Ultra Network Attached Storage - NAS - WDBVBZ0040JCH-NESN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWH04EW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aIffDbFDQXPYY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PV0IEDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Would that work? it's a sling not a backpack so I feel like it will have no problem fitting
I just purchased a D5300 with the 18-55 VR kit lens, and have the 70-300 VR on order now. I'm new to this, and it's my first "real" camera that I've had in 30+ years. If I enjoy it and want to spend more money I'll probably get a wide angle for astro next.
My 5300 had the option to come with the 18-140 AFS VR and I think that's a much better option than going all the way to 300 for a zoom, that kind of distance, like other's said requires VR and tripod/remote.
But really the lens I use all the time is the 50mm Prime. Seriously if you shoot people at all you need this lens, or even things in relatively close proximity. I can't tell you how awesome a 50 prime is for shooting.
That thing is almost always on my camera and I'm constantly shooting great pictures with it.
Canon has an app called ‘Canon Camera Connect’ for both iPad/iPhone and Android devices which allows you to transfer images over WiFi. We have the same camera and I use it almost all the time to transfer my photos.
for Apple: https://itunes.apple.com/ph/app/canon-camera-connect/id944097177?mt=8
for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.co.canon.ic.cameraconnect
I just started using it this week. But this one works pretty well so far. DSLR Remote
Then there is Helicon Remote, I didn't try it yet.
I bought this one. It seems to have jumped up in price a bit for whatever reason...if you shop around a bit you might find it for around £140ish instead.
I've heard this mentioned a few times. Do people actually use ring lights for product photography? Like the diva? I can't imagine this would give you as much control as a larger diffused softbox? And would the ring not be visible in the reflected glass? I imagined that ring lights are primarily for portraits or video tutorials....
This is the one I have: Case Logic SLRC-206 SLR Camera and 15.4-Inch Laptop Backpack (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DW99H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WlCzBb7D23094
I can attach my tripod to it and put my laptop in it. Lots of room for lenses and misc items.
i would recommend this photo kit if you need them - Pretty solid little setup for the price once you iron the backgrounds! I didn't expect anything mindblowing, but I really like the size of the backdrop frame - it's large enough for what I need. Just be careful about not accidentally knocking anything over because it's so lightweight.
You will probably end up finding a 70-300. I got one in a deal with a d3300 a few years ago. If you are unsure whether you actually need the lens, get the one made by tamron for around £100 which is decent https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamron-AF-70-300mm-4-5-6-Macro/dp/B0012UUP02/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532606803&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tamron+70-300
If portability is the concern, there is the option of a mirrorless camera.. Again, you could pick something up within that range (though I will say I'm not as familiar with those options, but plenty of other people around here are if you ask.)
Honestly, with cell phone cameras being what they are, I think mirrorless would be a better option for you. They're emerging tech, while P&S is starting to go the way of the dinosaurs.
Just a thought :)
Edit: Here’s an example of one, reasonably close to your price range, that appears to take gorgeous pictures and still has a small body:
Sony Alpha a6000 Mirrorless Digitial Camera 24.3MP SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Black) w/ 16-50mm Power Zoom Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8BICB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_HpPZAbDNDK6YW
Again, I’m not an expert in this (or any photography field, really) but I just want to point out things you may not have considered before you spend that much money on tech that is limited to what you pull out of the box (as opposed to expandable with better lenses) and fairly widely regarded as becoming obsolete.
>...Are there any free (or not free, even) resources that I can look at that I'd be able to get the hang of in 5 days, or that I could refer to while there? ...
I have the 3rd rev.
It's continuous.
These are the lights
Safstar LED Continuous Lighting Kit Photo Video Studio Photography Softbox 20"x27" LED Dimmable Light Kit for Portrait Video Shooting with 2 Stand and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074ZL5TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_l6q6rkcbRQD3k
Give me a few, and I'll post a few examples
There is a common DIY solution mounting the tulip shade backwards and using rubber bands on the tulip shade to hold a piece of welder's glass https://www.amazon.com/Forney-57052-Replacement-Hardened-Shade-10/dp/B002YCJFYO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518810986&sr=8-3&keywords=welders+glass against the filter ring.
I bought the following set of lights and controller. I have heard the lights can burn out if used too intensely. I am working on turning a room into a photo studio as well. I figure that 2 lights is a good enough start.
I got a Vanguard Alta Pro to replace my first cheap tripod. I chose that one because it seemed to be more flexible than most. I find it to be more than stable enough for time lapses although sometimes I do find it a pain to carry. I think it might be in your price range?
Rather than me try to describe all the different ways you can set it up these pictures do a fine job! https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003WKOENO/
NO! Older flashguns have high trigger voltages which can damage modern cameras. Moreover ' work' is a vague word. Ok, the flash will fit the hot shoe (there are a few exceptions) and fire but then it depends on what functions you want. At $60 you can get a Yongnio or Neewer gun with manual controls. That means you can regulate the output of the flash manually. Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Speedlight-Flashlight-Olympus/dp/B00I44F5LS/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1508374113&sr=8-22&keywords=yongnuo%2Bnikon&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW
There ya go. Basic manual flash. And cheap enough that you can buy
https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/
To go with it
I poked around and saw the Olympus E-PL7 new on Amazon for $250, that includes the 14-42 lens. They are pretty similar but the 7 has some nice extras, like built in wi-fi.
I'm not sure about the 40-150 lens, it can range in price depending on which one it is. Did they list a model?
There are three versions of the 55-250mm IS: original IS, IS II, and IS STM. Be sure you get the STM version, it's very sharp, quiet, and focuses instantly.
Depending on where you live, you might be able to get it used for $100.
If you're just an average photographer, try a variable ND filter.
https://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-Variable-Neutral-Density-77VND/dp/B004Z55VP0
That one is almost too large, but if you get somethig like a 72mm, and use a step up ring, you can use it on most lenses that you will get.
That would mostly depend on what you want to use it for and how tall you need it. I currently use this one. I find that it is a nice balance between a hefty tripod that won't blow around in the wind, and something light enough to carry on a short hike. You may want something heavier or lighter, taller or shorter... Just depends on the situation.
Just seen your edit, that lens looks very cool, I'd love a good wide lens for shooting skateboarding.
So you've got a decent wide, and your kit lens covers 18-55mm, but your kit lens is limited to f5.6 and above when zoomed in.
I'd suggest getting a 50mm prime around f2. You'll get a taste for a little bokeh and can experiment more with depth of field.
Personally I bought a £10 adapter and a bunch of old manual lenses from ebay. I got a 50mm f2, 28mm f2.8 and a 35-105mm f2.8 all for ~£20 each.
It also depends on your budget - with landscape photography it's best to have as large a sensor and megapixel count as possible. That's how landscape pros get those really detailed shots.
If that's what you're going for, then check out the Nikon D810 or Canon 5DS.
That being said, I know those cameras are super expensive for most people. And if you're just doing it as a hobby you don't need the top top top of the line gear - you don't need to go overboard with it.
If you're never going to be printing out your photos, megapixel count is not a concern.
Some mid-range DSLR options could be the Nikon D610 or Canon 6D, these are both solid cameras (I've owned the Nikon for several years now and it's been a great camera). These are entry-level full-frame DSLRs, both around 24 megapixels so that's plenty for landscapes and 99.9% of purposes.
I would also check out the Canon 7D Mark II or the Nikon D500, which looks like an amazing camera. These cameras will double nicely for action cameras if you're ever shooting fast-moving subjects too.
If you wanna keep it more towards your original budget that you paid for your Canon, take a look at these mirrorless cameras:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Alpha-Mirrorless-Digital-Camera/dp/B00I8BICCG/ref=zg_bs_3109924011_5
It's on sale for $36.00 on amazon. Here!
I think the low price is worth those risks due to me being only a beginner. How would you compare the first link that you saw with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017D7W57S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Agree w/ /u/fuqsfunny (I think I keep doing that w/ you heh, I'm new here) that they don't look that grainy or underexposed. The easiest solution is to do what you're doing, shoot raw, big aperture, and add noise reduction if necessary. Nothing to learn and spend. For a website you probably don't need super high res so the noise won't be as visible.
If you do want to go flash what kind of gear do you have? Assuming a canon or nikon DSLR a yongnuo yn560 IV for $70 is an affordable way to start with built in wireless triggering (to fire the flash off the camera). It's manual though so if you want TTL (where the camera choose the intensity of the flash for you) the YN568EX is $100 and the cheapest way to go. There's definitely a learning curve so prepare for that. I don't know if you're on some kind of deadline for this. No doubt a flash would give you more options if they're moving like stopping a jump in mid air but to make it look good it's not as easy as popping it on your camera. But, if you're already committed to photography in general you can't go wrong buying a flash even if you don't use it much on this project. It's an investment you'll use elsewhere for sure.
All that said, you're in control of the shoot right? This is as opposed to only observing a class and taking pictures. I say that because you may have the opportunity to pose them. If they could hold a position you could lower your shutter speed and ISO to get cleaner shots. I mean, this won't work for everything like the jumping or trying to get some real emotion during a spar but something else to consider.