you can find a new/refurb d3300 for same price on amazon with kit lens
Contact Nikon customer support. They may take your word that it's failed and just ship a replacement. Otherwise, you'll have to buy a replacement. Amazon has them for $15.
In your position I'd keep the 18-55 until you get a replacement. The 35mm has the same field of view as 52.5 lens on an FF body so you won't have anything at the wide end and there is not a lot of money to be made selling kit lenses, so keep it for the moment.
I have an Amazon Basics sling backpack that I'm very happy with. It's nice and light, can easily take a body, two lenses and other bits and bobs (battery, filters, etc.) and it's really well padded. Good price too.
The original, full title is "LC-52 Snap-on Front Lens Cap 52mm" - you should be able to find one in almost every camera store or you could order it from Amazon - maybe it'll make it in time: https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-LC-52-Snap-Front-Lens/dp/B00006I5J7
The wireless remotes I am referring to are completely automated intervalometers.
I have the Pixel FSK which currently costs $30 on Amazon. It allows me to set completely arbitrary exposure times, and Intervals. It also allows a delay to be set on the interval, and intervals to be repeated.
E.g. I could program it to start shoot a series of 10 photos with a 15" exposure and zero delay between captures every 5 minutes starting half an hour from now. It can automate bulb exposure and can do exposures as long as you want.
There are also plenty of tethered software options that could allow you to program completely arbitrary exposure values as well.
Well, the first thing you can do is watch the exposure meter in your camera to avoid under/over exposed images. If you keep an eye on it, you'll often times save yourself the hassle of moving sliders in post.
As for recommendations, i personally use the Lightroom+Photoshop subscription bundle, for like 15 bucks a month. Of course there are other free software, but i'd say Lightroom is among the most commonly used.
As for free programs, you can check out GIMP and Darktable. Check out some videos on Youtube to get a feel for it :)
If you shoot in RAW format, i'd say go for Darktable, or Lightroom.
If you're shooting standard jpeg, you're fine with some light postprocessing in GIMP.
Obviously it depends on how serious you are about photography and your goals. For a pure hobbyist having fun shooting JPEG and sharing it with family & friends, you're gonna be completely fine with GIMP. And if you're just starting, even better. I encourage you to be just a tiny bit critical about the stuff you shoot and you'll soon be learning a lot about lighting, composition and so on.
NEEWER has some cheap ones on Amazon. They're not super loose (at least at first) but they should loosen over time allowing for smoother movement. Some people replace the grease on theirs.
I have this one. This is carbon fiber, the aluminum version is cheaper.
Although I don't necessarily think you need a gimbal head unless you're doing fast action or wildlife. A sturdy tripod with no center column and a bigger ball head is probably a better idea for landscape work.
The Nikon logo is a trademark. A 3rd party cap carrying the Nikon logo is going to be a counterfit product instead of a knock-off. Amazon isn't big on selling illegal goods. If you place an order for the LC-52 lens with the Nikon logo, it comes from Amazon, and it isn't an OEM cap, contact Amazon and they will take care of it.
That one looks legit to me. I'd certainly feel comfortable buying it.
Check out amazon. I recently bought a cheap $8 wired remote which also does bulb mode and helps in autofocus.
Here’s the link for the one bought. should work with d3500 as long as you’ve a plug in option-
Kiwifotos MC-DC2 Remote Switch Shutter Release Cord for Nikon Z7 Z6 P1000 D750 D5600 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3300 D3200 D3100 D7000 D7100 D7200 D7500 D610 D600 Df D90 and More Nikon SLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D9Y331/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o.sMDbER2S8H1
If you're just holding the flash off to the side while shooting ( no flash stand or anything) maybe consider a simple TTL cord like this.
If you are looking to grow your speedlight kit and go wireless with TTL capabilities Look into Phottix Odin system. It works well with Phottix branded speed lights as well as Nikon speed lights. It's cpable of using the Nikon infrared creative lighting system.
*Edit: redundant words
Your phone is probably believe it or not possibly your best option. Unless you are looking to learn more as you use a camera with the thought of upgrading in the future as you learn to use the camera you have. The d3500 can be found in that budget range on Amazon. Nikon D3500 W/ AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWKDLGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TK4CGMHBFZK4D820C58R?psc=1
You can also find bundles with cases other lenses and what not for more money.
i bought these from amazon
honestly, the plastic bag with a rubber band from the youtube video is just as good imo
As far as I know, gfycat accepts mp4 files (presumably in h.264) format.
Handbrake is an amazing, free, cross platform tool for turning any video into an mp4. I think it's possible, though you would have to research the process, to cut the video from your camera down to just the part you want to turn into a gif.
Ultimately Handbrake is just a wrapper for ffmpeg, the Swiss army knife of video editing. If you can learn enough ffmpeg, you can do anything, but it's got a steep learning curve.
Edit: Here's how to trim a longer video to just the clip you want with Handbrake: http://superuser.com/a/1048753
> I don't have an SD card reader unfortunately
You can change that, buy one.
That's how I do all my cameras, video cams, MP3 players, smart phone, etc. It's just faster this way. Pop out, pop in, speed and it just works. So advise to you to get a SD card reader.
Nikon corporate is terrible about allowing access to parts, but they're extremely protective of their brand perception. If you contact someone at Nikon, they'll make this right. I'd try someone like this guy. Send printed letters and photographs, and document all your interactions.
If they're going to insist on performing all repairs, they're going to either have to do it properly risk losing customers in droves.
If the damage could have been caused by the shipper, you should file a claim with them.
I've done some digging... This may be related to poor connection avoidance in Android 5.0. One of the new features of this platform is that Android may avoid WiFi networks that don't provide access to the internet.
Unfortunately, I don't have an option to disable the feature, so I can't confirm. When I have more time I'll dig further.
I own a D5300 with a prime 35mm lens and can honestly say it's a great camera for the price.
A sample shot located in Wales...
i Found a webpage that tracks prices and I found the answer, yep it changes fairly often :)
its been as low as 399new and as high as 496 new in the past year, so I guess I just wait to buy it :)
I just bought a D5300 2 lense combo from Costo and couldnt be more happy with it. $1177 got me the camera 18-55mm lense, 55-300mm lense, 2 batteries, 32gb card, training dvd and a nikon bag.
Exiftool. No need to script anything. Exiftool can batch process time shifts or other tag editing.
For example, if you need to subtract 1 day, 3 hours, and 5 minutes, then your command would be
exiftool -time:all-="1 3:5" -ext nef /target/dir
exiftool -time:all-="1 3:5" -ext nef /target/dir
Change the -= to += to add time.
Exiftool is incredibly powerful when it comes to editing metadata. The exiftool forums are very helpful if you need more advice.
Yep, I had the same issues with my D90. I upgraded to a D7200 and I'm comfortable letting auto-ISO go up to 1600. There is less noise, and less of the obnoxious chroma noise.
If you're shooting RAW, you may want to look at noise reduction software. Nik DFine is free. Topaz Denoise has a free trial period and is less expensive than a new body.
Your camera will work with the latest AFP zooms.
You may need to update firmware.
You want the VR version!!!
The AFP lenses focus faster and are pretty sharp.
I have these. Recommend them both.
This is for when I need to bring everything. It’s big, but I’m pretty big so it fits. If you’re smaller it might be too big.
> Lowepro Slingshot 302 DSLR Sling Camera Bag
And this when I want something smaller. It’s only got room for body, 70-200, and 50mm lens.
> Lowepro Slingshot 102 DSLR Sling Camera Bag
It's pretty interesting. It was there yesterday but is no longer available via Amazon. There were a few hundred reviews and they seem to have been removed.
Not sure if it has something to do with this.
I have a Duracell replacement for EN-EL14 (same as the EL14a, just a slightly lower capacity so you will need to recharge sooner). Works like an absolute champ for me in my D3300... I'm not sure which country you are in, but for US you can get one over on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Replacement-Camera-Battery-EN-El14/dp/B00E3AA34Q/.
Mount at Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Bayonet-Mount-18-105-55-200/dp/B005HTP7MK
It does not look too hard if you are patient and reasonably dexterous.
If it means anything to anyone here, the D7500 is $100 off at Amazon today.
It's embarrassing that some in this reddit are so caustic and unhelpful. Your situation is difficult.
The problem with an electronics shop is that probably nothing they have matches the physical connections on the D3400 EN-El14 or 14a battery. It's a little more likely that a camera shop could assist you, but if they don't already have an out-of-box charger it would cost them to help you. And a full charge from empty takes about 2.5 hours.
The EN-EL14 uses the MH-24 charger. Specifications on Nikon's web site suggest this charger is kit for at least these cameras: D3200 D3300 D3400 D5100 D5200 D5300 D5500 D5600 D7000 D7100 D7700 D7800 and a couple others. Perhaps a local camera store could put you in touch with some local user of one of these. Or a local camera club?
Unsure whether the MH-25 charger for the EL15 used on many larger bodies would even fit the EL-14 battery. Can't test that here.
Some local on the net might volunteer to help you, but Italy is a looong country, so more specific identification of the city or cities to which you travel might help nudge a potential Samaritan.
Amazon appears to work in Italy. You could order to ship to a hotel or wherever you'll be in a couple days. Here's the authentic Nikon, and there are cheapo 3rd party units that you might or might not trust in emergency.
Just remember - you can always throw a FX lens on a DX camera with no issue. Picking up a good all around prime lens for the D750 would give you a good lens for the D7000, just with the crop factor.
For example - I used to shoot on my D90, it is what I learned on. I only bought FX glass so that when I went FX eventually, I wouldn't have to get rid of all my stuff. If you want a good budget prime, I basically learned photography on my FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8. You can get one for less than $100 used, even on Amazon, or you you can "splurge" and get a new one for $131. Such a great lens - and it's all metal so you can be pretty hard on it. It would be 50mm on your D750 and closer to like 85mm on your D7000
On this occasion, since the spider was so deep in the brush, I mounted the head of the strobe on my camera with one of these:
But often in the field, I will mount the strobe on a tripod and diffuse it with a 36-inch softbox. It looks completely ridiculous for macro but it creates such soft light.
You could use Stellarium on your computer, or Sky Map on your cellphone. They feature a "time travel" mode, where you set a past/future date and time and you will presented whith the correspondant position of the stars. Be sure to set your own location first. So, you would set the date and time when you took your picture, then point with your cellphone to the most approximate direction as when you took the picture, and you'll know the names of the celestial objects. If using your computer then you would also set your location first, then the past date, and then you would drag the sky to the approximate direction as well.
You could try the app DslrDashboard, but you'd have to pair the D3300 to the phone using a WU-1a WiFi adapter in order to get WiFi connectivity. I've used the app with my WiFi-compabible D7200, and it works very good!
Haha. Well, look what staying up until 4:30am can get you. I found a better deal here which my total came down to $127.71 after applying the discount code. If you wanna go for one or know someone else, the offer is good until they run out of it.
Well, I think you intentionally dragged me there to play around with this new toy before the gas starts kicking in again.
Anyhow, you are welcome. I just added you as a friend (not sure how befriending works on Reddit). Also, hit me up if you have any questions about my hobbies, or share/wanna involve in some of them. :)
This is the link for where I bought mine (not VC version)
Jet.com has some package deals with the VC one too. I think it's around $1400
It can be used as that. It's a pretty sharp lens. Lightweight too so it's easy for walking around.
I searched Flickr for D7000 and 35mm 1.8g
I’ve been experimenting with this other profile I found called N_Gamma which I find to be much better than Cineflat. It’s not free though, but cheap enough that I just bought it after watching a YouTube video about it (just search for nikon n_gamma). You can buy it here - https://gumroad.com/l/AbfIg
You can use this photo as a guide.
I worked my way from 15 seconds to 30 seconds.
Here is one from my D800 I took this summer.
You ever see shots at night of street lamps that look like there are stars or beams of light flaring from them, kind of like this? Those beams typically only occur from stopping down, but my shot was wide open.
Here, to prove you wrong. 200-500mm on a D5100. At 500mm, cropped a whole lot in post.
Yes, I looked at official moon shots from Nikon with the P1000. But here we have equal, if not more detail, from a DSLR body approaching 9 years old as of today. If I had a newer crop body with more megapixels (even a D3400), there would be even more detail.
The P1000 just doesn't compare all things considered.
Edit: Official Nikon shot, under "Overview" and then "See Sample Zoom Photography", shot 2
If you call that "not even close", I'd seriously get your vision checked. All the Nikon shot did was further crop and take the pic right before a full moon for some shadow / depth to the image.
Hey valleyblog, not sure if your question was answered yet or not, but I read this thread this morning, and it gave me SOME confidence that Nikon will continue to ALLOW us to use NX2 after support has officially ended...
Hope this helps.
I'll save you over $2400.
Download the free trial of one of the versions of Portrait Professional and try it out with some of your existing photos.
Bear in mind that the default settings tend to way overcook things, but you can achieve some very nice results with a little fiddling,
Love my Nikon 200-500 (on a D7100). It's sharp, the VR is awesome, but for the f5.6 and the higher ISO i have to use sometimes, i probably upgrade my camera.
I guess that's less of a problem with a D750.
Same might be true for the variable aperture of the tamron. This
150-212mm 213-427mm 428-600mm
is a snippet from the-digital-picture.com site, listing zoom lengths for the 3 f-stops between 5 and 6.3, and 6.3 kicks in at around 400mm.
It might not be a dealbreaker on a full frame, but my D7100 is happy about every little bit of light ;)
Here's one of my bird shots, but he was pretty close,
I think all of the birds there are shot with the 200-500, usually wide open, and that whale too of course ;)
Hey...Just saw your flickr...Love your pics man. The clarity is awesome, especially like the one with boats and the statue of liberty in the distance, also your monochrome stuff is nice.Did you use 17-50 on these ?
Do check out my work also at https://www.eyeem.com/u/internaleye
Everything I know from Imagemagick I learned off of their website documentation http://www.imagemagick.org/script/command-line-options.php There's a lot of information there.
You're not likely to get the exact same colors. Keep in mind that any RAW processor will look a bit different from another, the trick is just getting it close enough. If you know a bit about ICC profiles, you can tweak the input profiles that imagemagick/dcraw apply, or you can do more complex things like color-matrix or Hald Color Look Up Tables
I'll be honest my knowledge of Imagemagick can be plotted like a roller-coaster. I work on a project and I get really really good at it, then I don't use it for a year and a half and forget nearly everything and have to take a day or two to get back into it again (and catch up on what methods have been changed/added/deprecated) when I start working on the next project.
I'd stick with the 18-55mm VR II and a 35mm f/1.8 ... both are outstanding lenses for closeups (28cm and 30cm focus near limit respectivly), and as long as you get the new collapsible 18-55mm it will have great VR for video.
Just make sure you don't have autofocus on when shooting video.
I have used my D3200 and 35mm f/1.8 combo a great deal lately, leaving my D610 at home. Got to say I am blown away by the punch that little camera delivers. I have a set at flickr if you're interested. Not any videos though.
Ok I’m gonna try and walk you through this, sounds like the first thing you need to do is download a program to your computer called 7zip https://www.7-zip.org/ it’s open source and I use it for all my file extraction needs. Once it’s done downloading, the next step is to install it. Should be a fairly straight forward process. If you have any trouble let me know. After it’s finished installing you may need to restart the computer, if so prompted, do it. Once you’re rebooted, go back to your downloads folder and right click on the F-D7500-V110W file and select the extract option, it should pop up a dialogue giving you an option to choose where you wanted to save the extracted files to, click the little folder option button on the right and choose your memory card as the location you want to extract the files to. Once it’s done extracting and saving to the card, pop that bad boy into your camera. From here you’re gonna need to go through the menu features on your camera and find where the firmware settings are located, usually it’s in the wrench looking menu options. Once you find the firmware tab it should give you the option to install from there. Hope I helped, LMK if you need me to clarify anything and good luck, you got this!
I've had my D750 since 2015. It's a workhorse. I had the same issue with the eye cover until I got one of these.
Soft Silicon Camera Viewfinder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2YDSFW
Hasn't slid off since.
I use Kase Magnetic filters with my Z6. It works incredibly well. But you have decide how often you want to use ND filters and polarizers to decide if you want to get a great system or something that's just good enough. I purchased the filters in 82mm to go with the 14-30mm and purchased a 72mm step magnetic ring for the 24-70 F4. Having used cheaper filters in the past, I'd recommend just splurging on a nice kit if you think you'll use it often.
You want something like this. Some sensor swabs bundled with sensor cleaning fluid.
The artifact looks to me like the shadow of a stain on the sensor cover glass, like a residue of a drop of water that dried up, leaving behind the sort of mineral stain you see on wine glasses and such. You'll need a drop of cleaning fluid on the first swab to dissolve the stain. Then swipe again with a dry swab to get any remaining fluid off.
I don't know what else to tell you. I just tried mine for the first time the other day and all went well. I still prefer to do it the way I had been doing it with a SD card reader. That way no messing with cables etc.
You can put an order for one in through Amazon right now. I pre-ordered a couple of weeks ago and they updated my estimated delivery to 07/11-07/19.
If you're going to use the camera in a fixed position, I think digiCamControl (free) is a really good option to connect it to your computer and record video from there. The 'Virtual Webcam' program is better for livestreaming (lower quality), while the normal program lets you see the live view display and control recording as if you were using the camera directly.
Alternatively, if you have an Android phone and an OTG adapter (to connect your phone to the camera), you can use qDslrDashboard (USD 9.49) to see the live view display and control the recording. You might even be able to get a phone mount for your hotshoe for a relatively cheap portable setup!
Maybe a speedlight? An external flash that can be used off-camera (with a wireless trigger) or on the camera's hotshoe. You can get very creative with two speedlights and a trigger, like this well-priced Godox kit.
Do you actually want a macro lens? You don't need one to photograph the moon and animals—unless the animals are bugs! A macro lens lets you focus very close. The kind of lens I think you're looking for is called a telephoto lens.
For the subjects you mentioned, the telephoto zoom lens you linked to is just okay. You can do better. I would recommend the Nikon AF-P DX Nikkor 70-300mm VR. Yes, if you buy new it costs more than twice as much as the old Tamron. But the image stabilization (VR) is very good to have if you want to shoot at 300mm without a tripod all the time. I hope you can find a used copy of the Nikon lens in your country.
You're correct, it's completely manual. https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-Adapter-Mirrorless-Camera-NZNK/dp/B003JFRVD2/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=Nikon+Z+mount&qid=1610894160&s=photo&sr=1-13
It can run on a CR1 (DL1/3N) battery, but it's much easier to find two LR44 (also called A76) batteries. For example, here is an a six pack from AmazonBasics. They're a little pricey but they last a looong time.
A CR1 battery is sorta like two LR44 stuck together. I don't know how you found that link in your post but that's a CR1220 which is totally different. Here's a CR1 battery.
^^^ this. I'll add that I have this set of JIS screwdrivers and they're great for lens/camera repair (a must have if you work on any Japanese camera gear).
Yes, you can tighten those four screws yourself—but here's a couple of things to be careful of:
I thought there was something else I wanted to note, but I've forgotten what it might be. Good luck! And good on you for wanting to fix this little treasure.
but thats not an extreme pro SD card though as what you said is best, so i found this one ?? https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Extreme-SDXC-Memory-Class/dp/B07H9J1YXN/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sandisk+extreme+pro+sd+card&qid=1608227217&s=computers&sr=1-2
An intervalometer is going to be your best bet.
BackyardNikon and the like don’t support it due to Nikon not releasing an sdk for the lower range models. Meaning other programs can’t connect to the camera.
here is a cheap intervalometer I found on amazon you can set however long of an exposure you want with it, they even make wireless ones too.
I used one of these
NEEWER S-Type Bracket Holder with Bowens Mount for Speedlite Flash Snoot Softbox Beauty Dish Reflector Umbrella https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00JAAXH1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_VW.XFb189QH2C
Nikon says yours is Mini C HDMI, not sure if you're UK but on Amazon it's this one
I don't know if it works but just be aware the manual says not to use live view for extended periods of time, if you see smoke turn it off immediately.
I can vouch for the flashlight....it's marvelous. It definitely helps with not having to deal with color cast in post hardly at all. Also, the CREE bulbs will do a color cast, so pick up the Nichia based one Amazon Link
Other mentions of lonelspeck.com are spot on. It's a top notch resource.
One thing that I commonly use for astro stuff is hand warmers to keep the humidity/dew from forming on the front element. I have not had the chance to shoot in Utah (yet) so I don't know if this is something that needs to be kept in mind or not.
I think the grip deal is over. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCL7K14/ref=twister_B00PHRVYZG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon has the grip bundle but BH does not on the D500.
I'm guessing things are winding down so strike while it's hot. The D500 is only one year old so it won't be replaced soon. The D750 is 3(?) and replacement has been rumored for a while.
I bought a slightly used Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 off Amazon a while ago, it works great on my D3300. It's not cheap but you might be able to find a deal on a used one.
Definitely get the D3300.
1. Built-in sensor cleaning
2. Microphone jack for better quality audio recording with an external mic
3. More powerful built-in flash
4. Can be used with the Nikon ML-L3 remote or the cheaper AmazonBasics Nikon remote
Advantages of the D3400:
1. Snapbridge. And that's basically it.
You can purchase the D3300 with Nikon's newer [2016 model] AF-P 18-55mm VR lens from Amazon for only $400.
$1455 from Nikon refurb
$1429 on Amazon refurb
Third party flashes (Godox, Flashpoint, Yongnuo, Neewer) are quite good, and so are their radio triggers.
For cards, your D7200 has two slots. This can be important for redundancy if you shoot paid gigs, since a corrupted/lost card would be a bad thing.
Cards do come in different speeds, which will affect how quickly your buffer clears (important for sports where you may take a burst to catch the action). I’d use a pair of fast cards at smaller capacities (32 or 64 GB). Two 32s shooting raw gets me ~1300 shots, which has been enough for all but one or two events I’ve shot. I keep spares in my bag to swap during a performance’s intermission.
I use the cheaper Amazon Basics Sling and it holds my D7200 with 18-35 attached, 50-100, and 8 extra double As in the main pocket, with a flash, 50mm lens, wireless trigger, and a few cleaning supplies plus earplugs in the top. Barely. You can strap an additional flash to the outside if need be.
Do you have any lenses from your DX days that will work on a full frame?
I shoot the with D750 as well - I'd say my favorite piece of glass I own is my Nikon AF FX NIKKOR 50mm F/1.4D. It's the older version of the lens, but it is so well built. It has never failed me - and it basically never leaves my camera. You can find it here on Amazon. I actually also own the AF-S FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G - which does autofocus a bit faster/smoother - or at least it did when the af system on it was still working. Apparently it is normal for it to stop working reliably - and it has to be sent in for repair.
I really am a sucker for a fast prime lens.
What about the lens cleaning feature the D3300 came with?
Can you please provide the amazon link for that D3400 bundle with the newer lens you found for $500? I can’t tell which one is the right one from the list of cameras shown.
I found this one:
Nikon D3400 24.2MP DSLR Camera w/AF-P 18-55 VR & AF-P DX 70-300mm VR Dual Lens Accessory Bundle - (Certified Refurbished) (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077829KK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p.0zBb36ED474
Both VR lenses and not sure if everything is refurbished by Nikon or just the lenses however seems like a good bang for the buck.
Just buy a Domke gripper strap for under $20 off amazon. It will come with metal rings that you can attach to the lugs on your camera body. Just attach, adjust, and enjoy. I have 2 of these Domke straps for my film SLRs and have no problems.
There was a similar thread a few days ago. Through hearsay OP claimed the body had the same dimensions as a D5500/D5600. If this is true, and if you're interested, I have a Mieke grip with external remote i need to get rid of since I exchanged my D5600 for a D7500. If you're interested, shoot me an PM, $50 shipped to the CONUS. Its only been used a couple times and should be in mint condition as i've owned it for like 2 weeks (can prove with a Amazon receipt).
Do yourself a favor. I also have a 3400 and I've been using the 10-20mm Nikkor lens for a couple of years. Buy the ICE 72mm ND Filters on Amazon. It comes in a set of ND 10, 6, and 3. I mostly use the 10 stop filter in the middle of the day for 3-5 sec exposures. Takes your photography to the next level.
Got the refrub from Andorama but Amazon has refrub also.
I have a D3300, grabbed this off amazon a while ago and it works perfectly fine (I'd be surprised if it suddenly would lose compatibility on a later gen: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Remote-Control-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/?th=1
Supposedly it keeps draining the battery when it's in, so just take it out whenever you're not using it, just a head's up
Thank you for the kind words!
This photo actually has no diffusion. I saw this spider while in the backyard so I ran inside to grab my gear but I couldn't find my diffuser. So I just went without it as I didn't want to miss the shot. I powered the flash down to 1/128 and crossed my fingers I wouldn't blow out the highlights. You can see the fresnel-head shape in its eyes.
However, normally for diffusion, I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Diffuser-Eliminate-Foldable-Storage-Accessories/dp/B07VHPSGJX/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=flash+diffuser+pop+up&qid=1595858896&sr=8-23 It's simple, lightweight and works very well.
Just a few tips that in my opinion is good to know.
USE RAW FORMAT
You need a place with minimal light polution.
Stativ, lots of time, a remote for your camra, if your phone has infrared senor no need for a separate remote, you can use your phone. My Huawei P20 pro has that, or Samsung Galaxy S5 and S6, also Huawei Mate 10 pro, 20 pro.
Here is the app i use: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dslr.camera.ir.remote.full
Important: FOCUS: Must be on manually. How to: Turn live view on and point your camera to a street light or a light further away and press the zoom in button till you can see the light on your screen, now you can easily focus that light.
Now point your camera towards stars and have fun, just take care not to touch the focus ring again.
Lightroom or similar for Editing your pictures.
If you want to know more, just ask.
Apps i use for help
Light polution app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pa.lightpollutionmap
I use Camera Connect & Control which works great as long as I make sure to put my phone into Airplane mode before enabling wifi and connecting (this holds true for WMU btw also).
There is also Helicon Remote which I recall having issues with but I believe that was before I discovered online the Airplane trick. Also its $48 and I don't recall seeing anything superior in it over Camera Connect & Control.
I dont know if its possible on iphone but it is on android.
You need the wifi nikon dongle and a app like this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.BrainyLantern.slingShot
I use the same app on my d5300 and really love it and think its much better then the official nikon app that is straight crap.
Save some money, if your phone has an IR blaster, use this app.
It works perfectly on my D3400 and I have a Samsung S6. You just have to put it into the correct shutter mode via the release mode button.
Get yourself a depth-of-field calculator app and spend some time fiddling with it. It's very educational.
I use one for Android called Hyperfocal Pro.
If the water was fresh and reasonably clean, you could try packing the camera in a plastic bag for a day or two with some number of these dehumidifiers, changing if they become saturated. Take the battery out first. Probably won't work, but inexpensive and worth a try.
If a camera, lens, or anything else has been exposed to water, don't leave it indefinitely in a sealed container -- nearly guarantees mildew eventually.
Pay attention to the actual speed too !
The "class number" only guarantees a minimum speed, it's a specification, but for instance both these two cards (here and here) are class 10, one goes up to 95MB/s, the other one is 30MB/s, the end result is not the same at all ;-)
I must have deleted my post - I am pretty sure this DOES have a focus motor.
Q&A from BH:
"Will this lens work in auto focus for the Nikon D3200?"
Marshall on Aug 11, 2014
Best Answer: Yes it will. The lens has the required built-in motor needed to autofocus with the D3200.
This VidPro bag has lasted me over a year with hardly any wear, it's large enough to hold my tablet, plus a D5200, SB400 flash, an 18-55mm lens, as well as a 70-300mm lens, all inside of the compartment, using the dividers to seperate things out. On top of that, I keep the charger, various cords, and all my cleaning stuff inside the various pouches, as well.
If you want to spend a bit more I've had the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 for almost a year with my D5300 and its awesome. (all the night shots I posted on reddit were captured with that lens, and most day time shots too)
I'm using this one, mainly because it's got tons of room.
It's held up well. The only drawback is that I wish it had a handle on the top but I'm dealing.
I used to own Lowepro Shoulder bags but as my kit grew, I needed more space.
So i have a Dakine Quest 28L Photopack. it's got room for my D700 with lens attached, D7000, 2 primes, a zoom and a flash. it's also got a waterproof deployable poncho thing (for the bag) and a tripod/monopod holder. It also has a separate padded 14" laptop compartment. Its got waist-straps and chest straps to spread all the weight evenly. very good lumbar and upper back support once everything is cinched down. I love it for the quick access flap on the side and the upper compartment has room for other things that you'd need for a day's shoot. I travel with it as my carry-on, never had any security issues.
But for walking around it is a bit on the bulky side and for when I don't need all my gear I have a Dakine Upload 8L shoulderbag. Room for one body and zoom lens (think 70-200) with side pockets that you can cram a flash and a prime or 2 with clever packing. I'm kind of annoyed the updated it. I think the newest model has a tablet compartment now.
Why Dakine? I've been buying Dakine luggage for awhile. I think they've earned the reputation for being a sort of Samsonite for Skater/Surfer/Snowboarder crowd. They're tough as nails, thoughtful features and they look pretty damned cool.
The timing of this thread is great. I am in the market for a new bag. Currently I have and use the: LOWEPRO SLINGSHOT 302 AW CAMERA BAG. http://www.amazon.com/Lowepro-SlingShot-302-AW/dp/B0036AYTWG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428500075&sr=8-1&keywords=LOWEPRO+SLINGSHOT+302+AW+CAMERA+BAG
It's good but I'm running out of room in it. So I am looking for something else.
LunaSolCal is the app that I use (and usually recommend here) to have a better understanding of the movements and timings of just the sun and moon. Now I plan better, both the location and time for night sky photography.
It's all good :) I'm not an expert in photography or video by any means but I've worked in the fields in some capacity for years. I think a lot of people who never worked in film (as in motion picture film) don't automatically make the connection. DSLR video needs to be treated a lot more like film and less like a camcorder or whatnot. Live autofocus and depth-of-field aren't like what you see on camcorders so you need to set up shots and use some sort of follow-focus for smooth changes on the fly. And like with film, you typically record audio separately from video so all of those film audio techniques come back into play.
Sometimes I will use an external mic plugged into the audio input of the camera to have everything in a single file but it's often just as easy to use my external mic and a dedicated digital recorder like a Zoom H4n for audio and sync it in post.
I figure if you're using that mic (just googled it and see it's only USB) it will be easier and more effective to just record audio to your computer and video to the camera. Trying to capture live from the camera while also recording audio from the USB mic could be more trouble than it's worth.
Still, if I was looking to do DSLR video with computer-recorded audio from a USB mic, I'd just go with the clapboard method. I'm sure you could also use something like a phone app that flashes the screen and makes a simultaneous quick "blip" of sound. Here's one for Android and I'd imagine there are others on the Play Store or the Apple store if you use an Apple phone.
My first good camera! If you are going to be shooting with it, get one of these pronto:
Rubber Eyepiece for Nikon FM, etc.
Highly recommend this book
The large number of pixels make the system very unforgiving of camera shake. So practice good handholding technique. OTOH the incredible high ISO performance means you seldom need slow shutter speed.
Yes, that would work. I had an inflatable one for years in my travel bag. Something like this
You can get something that attaches with velcro around the head of the flash. It's like a big light box that has is diffused on the front.
Something like this.
I am at work now, but as soon as I get home, I will link you some pictures that I took and some that I expect to be able to take.
For now, I got this sweet deal before it expires at 11:59pm today. They usually run for $350 and now the deal is for $147.99 (another $25 off if you make your total $150).
I am gonna play around with this new toy and see how it's different from my stock 18-55mm Lens
I feel it's very important to note, if you're planning on shooting video, that the D5300 shoots 60FPS at 1080p. The 7100 only does 60fps at 1080i. I just got a D5300 a few months ago and LOVE it. Here's some sample footage.
A couple of great options for her. The 85mm f1.8g lens is pretty much your gold standard portrait lens in that budget. Another option that is a great all around lens is the 105mm f2.8 vr which is decent for portraits but is excellent for closeup shots of small things (macro photography). Both are under $500.
You're looking for a follow-focus.
Basically any card is going to be a lot slower than the buffer. If you aren't shooting past the buffer you can maintain burst speeds.
Also from a reliability standpoint, just get whatever speed of Sandisk Extreme Pro UHS-I fits your needs.
Note: don't waste money on the faster and more expensive UHS-II cards, the D7500 doesn't have a UHS-II bus.