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I have six of this version (same company) and they've all lasted over two years at this point. Electronics just randomly break sometimes. That's not always indicative of the quality of the company. I use them in my leopard gecko enclosures and my blue tongue skink enclosure.
PS Yours should still be under warranty if it's only been six months.
Amazon or I think Petco ships. Here’s some waxworms: Josh's Frogs Waxworms (25 Count) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX2CQYP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WVO-Cb145JVEG, I saw Petco sells and ships small cups but my phone isn’t let me send the link for whatever reason
Amazon! Edit: Here it is I got it for $20 tho
Yes. I'll be replacing the damp paper towel with moss some time this week, the store was out of it so it's the best I could do! The water dish on the right has a little spot in it for food but I put calcium in it instead!
Unsure if this is allowed. Please delete it not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGR98VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3BGSC99HSZ0HQB25V5RB
This is the exact camera that we got for our nighttime setup :) we love it.
Get a hidey rock like this:
Exo Terra Gecko Cave for Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHD00/
Keep the moistened moss in there so your gecko has a place to shed. They don’t like doing that out in the open.
The doc was not sure if it is a burn or infection. She recommended checking the safe distance printed on the light bulbs I'm using on his terrarium, and moving them further away if they're too close. I bought this light mount and some pieces I can mount horizontally.
Just need the UVB bulb. Plants will grow better under it than LED anyway.
I prefer Powersun over SolarGlo. Seem to last longer. But 10.0 UVB would be too intense for most tropical geckos. Acadia is a good brand too but usually not available locally.
Just replace the bulb after 6-8 months. Even if still working, they're not putting out UVB anymore. Just a normal fluorescent light bulb at that point. It's necessary for your gecko to absorb calcium and avoid a vitamin D deficiency. You could dust the feeders with Calcium with D3 but I always used both to be safe.
The main reason for raising your light up is airflow. You're gonna want good air flow And good humidity. That light as is blocks a lot air flow.
Whatever you go with, good luck!
The hexagonal one is a Jelly Belly jelly bean jar. The right one was an animal cracker jar. Walmart sells big jars of cheese balls that are perfect as well. The M&M jar in the middle can be bought from Costco. These Skittle jars are the same size as them.
Yeah, like I said, one small side vent and one vent on top I think is ideal for lighting and air flow. Just not too big of holes. My small M&M jar dries out too quickly for my liking due to how big the holes are.
Definitely get either a heat emitter or specifically night time bulb (they’re usually blue). The red light at night interrupts their day/night cycle and can cause shedding issues. I’d also recommend switching substrate to tile/aspen/paper towels or a natural more dry substrate (but NOT calcium sand/lots of normal sand since that can cause impaction). Leopard geckos can easily rip their nails out when they get caught in repticarpet. And like someone else commented more hides and enrichment is always good. This is a great start though!
Edit- Link for the exoterra night heat bulb: https://www.chewy.com/exo-terra-night-heat-bulb-reptile/dp/123961?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12713121116&utm_content=Exo%20Terra&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V2o9Uu9FxAam_mu-VPHidkmc&gclid=EAIaIQobC...
Nature Zone SNZ59231 Appetite Plus Reptile Concentrated Solution, 2-Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_07YWD98EH9KFABA4CFQ2
This is what I used when my beardie was sick (in addition to meds from the vet)
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Looks stunning though I would make two maybe three changes, I would for sure put a cage over that heat lamp so a jumping gecko doesn't one day land on it and gets burned and I would cover the sides with a black film (something like this). Covering the sides will make the gecko feel more securing increasing the chance it'll spend more time further out in the enclosure. The last maybe change is to add some natural vines to go across the entire scape, to provide a bit more crawling space further up and out in the terrarium (perhaps adding some more air plants to them) certainly with one passing close to the heat lamp.
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 240+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Thanks! I got mine from Amazon.
WACOOL Magnetic Reptile Ledge, Acrylic Gecko Feeding Ledge with 6PCS Cups, Reptile Food Water Feeder Dish for Geckos Iguana Chameleon Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WFK963Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A1AA636VM4029VZE72JD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Unfortunately, it says it's currently unavailable. I know that most reptile shops have some variation of them available. I saw some on Josh's Frogs, and Pangea. Just search for gecko feeding ledge.
You can just Google reptile thermostat or go to a pet store and look for something called that. It’s a device where you plug in your heat devices and you can set the temperature range that it produces. It’s super important to prevent burns from the heat device heating up too much and it’s also important to make sure the heat doesn’t get too low either.
Here is one that I use
But anything similar is helpful
OP: This gecko needs to be on a reptile specific blended fruit mix. I highly recommend Pangea Growth and Breeding, as well as their other flavors. Repashy is another good brand. Just mix a little with water in a little food bowl daily and it's good to eat. It's not too expensive and it last a long time, longer than insects. Your gecko cannot eat only insects. Insects should be only once in a while.
Mealworms being dangerous is a myth. With proper heat, they are fine to digest. However, that proper heat is usually only suitable for species like leopard geckos. I recommend other feeders like crickets as an occasional snack.
Pangea Gecko Diet Growth and Breeding Formula https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XB9PWBX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QY7X8H8EQK2EX185QT6C
MRTIOO 100 pcs Crested Gecko Food and Water Cups Feeder for Reptile Feeding Bowls for Lizard and Other Small Pet Ledge Accessories Supplies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QC53MFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DP0C40VVB01X07K4EG2M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Its amazon blink camera! It often goes on sale about 25%-30% off: https://www.amazon.co.uk/introducing-blink-mini-compact-indoor-plug-in-smart-security-camera-1080-hd-video-motion-detection-works-with-alexa/dp/B07X37DT9M?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1 :)
SunGrow Reptile Hammock, 12.6" x 16.5" x 12.6" (32x42x32cm), Authentic Hand-Woven Seaweed, Includes 1 Lizard Lounger, 3 Suction Cups and 5 Feet Leather Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RXZZ9VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RE3Y0CZ85FHPW5MD0XQK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s a thermometer I’m talking about a thermostat like one that you plug your lights into to keep them at a certain temperature a really good thermostat is the 600w exo terra (I use this one) it’s a bit pricey though. I would also recommend getting a new thermometer since those exo terra ones are really shitty I use these ones and they work really well also double as hygrometers https://www.amazon.com/AikTryee-Hygrometer-Upgraded-Temperature-Greenhouse/dp/B07QMZL448/ you need a thermostat for any heat source especially one that’s 100w those will produce wayyy too much heat and burn your gecko
Besides the red lamp, it's quite exposed being glass on all sides. I would use some film to cover up everything but the front. Something like this.
https://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets/avipro-100g-probiotic-%28online-only%29#
This is great for a booster and can be put into drinking water!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vetark-Professional-Critical-Care-Formula/dp/B00393SPOS
This one is the special food!
Things are most likely okay and the gecko is just taking time to settle in. Its important to make sure there arent any illnesses or parasites though!
Once the gecko is clear on stuff you can hopefully relax more about it.
Make sure you ask what can be tested fecal wise at the vets, sometimes they cant test for everything and you might need to see if there are labs that can do it. I have a good one in the uk if you are here too.
This tank looks brilliant so far and the fact that you are making sure it is right before buying the animal is so great. Having seen some shit enclosure on reddit today, it is good to see that some people new to the hobby, can do things how they are supposed to be done.
One recommendation I have is to get something to cover up the sides of the enclosure, that way the gecko will feel a bit more secure increasing the chance it'll stay further out in the enclosure (more visible to you). The cheap and easy way to do this is with some cardboard taped to the sides of the enclosure, but with how nice it is looking so far, that would sort of be a shame. I would recommend using some sort of film, something like this.
A bit of a shame you can't really add UV lighting though.
Congratulations! :-) Would it though be possible for you to add a lot (like 100%) more vines and plants and bark (natural or fake) that would be great. It's far too little hiding place for it and far too little climbing options. Put in sticks and and have them high up (the like to sit up all high). They like to have a hiding place like a cave or a coconut to sleep in.
You don't need UVB light for the gecko (unless it's for your plants) and you don't should have any heating lamp for it, they don't need it unless you keep a normal indoor temp between 21-24C.
So first of all, have you tried the "lipstick" method of feeding insects? Sometimes geckos won't feel like hunting live insects, but if you kill them and expose their guts on the geckos' nose. Then the gecko should gobble the bug right up. This works especially well with a variety of feeders, like mealworms, silkworms, dubia roaches, and hornworms, as their gut to exoskeleton ratio is relatively high.
Second, feeding high fat and protein foods will really help the gecko gain some grams. As mentioned above, you could feed dubias, silkworms and hornworms, which are really nutritious feeders. You could also try waxworms, which, while are usually a poor choice of feeder due to their high fat, work wonders on helping an underweight gecko recover. If you don't have access to any of these insects, you should feed the gecko an insect rich pre-made diet; I personally use Pangea's Growth an Breeding formula, which is very nutritious and contains lots of insect protein, great for helping geckos gain weight. The same lipstick technique can be used with gecko diet too; just rub a tiny amount on your gecko's nose, and when he starts to lick it up, hold a small spoon/finger/stick covered in food up to his tounge, and he should eat it without issue.
Please get two probe thermometers, preferably that also show humidty, and put one on the hot side and one on the cool side. These are mandatory for keeping a healthy gecko, and they're cheap. This listing comes with two for less than $10. I also recommend a thermometer controlled outlet for keeping basking temps in the correct range. I have one connected to the ceramic heat emitter for my leopard gecko and he loves it.
I would trust the digital one over the analogs,, i'd also remove the ones that use glue/adhesive because it poses a risk in the future when the glue starts to break down. ive seen many herps get stuck on the glue from analog readers and its very sad. i have a thermometer / hygrometer like this in my frog's tank that way the actual unit itself isnt in the tank and the probes are inside and use suction cups
Im using one off Amazon I think this is it
Wuhostam 2 Pack 100W Infrared Ceramic Heat Lamp,Black Reptile Emitter Bulb for Pet Coop Heater Chicken Lizard Turtle Brooder Aquarium Snake, No Harm No Light, ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXD4SMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BRQ49MMZEDV9VWCVCSEH
I’m not using incredibly high temperatures it’s just that there’s plastic on the cover of the tank less than 6 inches from the bulb that gets burned, I try to keep it on around 73°F
I do like the Thrive brand lamps, but they don't have dimmers built in. If you have a Lowes, home depot or even Walmart nearby they might have manual dimmers that you could use. As an example.
A heat mat on the bottom won't do much in a bioactive setup, the heat wouldn't penetrate the substrate. I know some people stick a heat pad on the side of the enclosure so they have a warm patch they can hang out on, but regardless a thermostat is really a necessity with any heat source - both to protect the animal from burns and yourself (unregulated heat sources can be fire hazards). With heat mats you can use a cheap on/off thermostat - ones like these will work ok and are only about 17 bucks (this is all assuming you're in the US of course).
Yeah it's quite unique. It was a bit pricey but I can't say I regret the purchase. Here's the link incase you're interested. There are cheaper alternatives but you're paying for good quality and longevity with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GD87X4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_NR86BFTBCZ1S5C6VPVX2
On top of the cage, you use it exactly as if it was a heat lamp it just produces no light. Considering your temperatures I'd go for a 25, maybe 50w. But you have to make sure you have it hooked up to a thermostat like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=20NW6DLVFTNRQ&dchild=1&keywords=reptile+thermostat&qid=1613978157&sprefix=reptile+thermo%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-5)
At least for cresties 21c-23c is the sweet spot, with anything below 19c being too cold and above 27c too hot.
cresties are pretty sensitive to heatstroke, having them above 80f/27c for an extended amount of time can be quite dangerous to them, so whatever way you decide to heat its absolutely necessary to have a thermostat hooked up to control the heater, like this one .
My favorite heating source is a ceramic heat emitter, because they are super cheap, last forever, and don't emit any light so you can have them on during the night.
Something like this might be a little more fit for a crested 🙂 REPTIZOO Mini Reptile Glass Terrarium,Front Opening Door Full View Visually Appealing Mini Reptile or Amphibians Glass Habitat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJZPYGZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p8IFFbZCSQQRG
Something like this should work just fine. Put the temperature probe in the tank above the heat mat/ in the warm hide, plug the heat mat into the thermostat and the thermostat into the wall. Then set your preferred temperature (I keep my leopard gecko at 90/91 Fahrenheit) and you’re good to go! heat mat thermostat
Any light fixture will do, depending on what his enclosure looks like you can add a dome fixture for relatively cheap or a hood if he’s in something like an exo terra or zoo med terrarium. Any LED bulb from Home Depot would be fine usually but it all depends on the temperature and on how much heat is needed.
Again, the main objective is all about temperature. If you get a thermometer and measure the temperature that you currently have then you can mess around with adding either LED’s or low wattage bulbs (like 26 watts) from petco or petsmart if it’d take less of the guesswork out for you :)
My guy is in an exo terra terrarium so he has a matching hood and the two led bulbs. I’ll link both of them here, but again I live in Southern California so for like 99% of the year I don’t have to worry about heating it up but mostly just cooling it down
I'm not entirely sure if it's safe to use a uvb bulb. I would just get a low watt daylight bulb like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Repti-Glo-Fluorescent-Terrarium/dp/B00101JIA6/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1539478371&sr=1-9&keywords=exo+terra+lamp
I believe this is the one I use, but it would need to be put on a thermostat to make sure it doesn't overheat. I have mine under the "warm" side of the tank with a hide over it so they can feel secure and warm their bellies. I use paper towels on top. Then then cool side is where I have the humid hide for shedding assistance :)
Aw, poor baby! She is very lucky to have a caring home! Unfortunately not all PetSmarts are created equal and it sounds like you guys had a run in with a bad one :( I'm very glad they gave her to you so you could get her back on her little feet! I have a few Cresties that used to love love love crickets and now turn their noses up at them, so sometimes their tastes do change as they age. Have you tried Dubia or Black Soldier Fly Larve ("Calciworms")?
Crested geckos technically do not need a heat source. I live in a particularly cold area so I use a heater to buff into the higher 60's in the winter (just to be safe). If you go the heat route do not use a regular heat lamp bulb. Non light emitting ceramic heat bulbs are a must. Also never use a heat lamp without a thermostat like this one to regulate its temperature.
I agree with the cork bark comment (and their plant ideas), but with the top stuff, I like these: https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Vines-Pothos-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B0009YEB70 Just anything similar to give it more shelter up top and not be out in the open.
Dubias are substantially better nutritionally. Crickets second. Mealworms last. This is the same for all 3 species, but cresties and leachies don't need bugs with a complete powder diet.
Also, sorry. My brain did a little switch up there. Had my mind way back on buying stuff from pet shops. Pangea is what I use. The complete with insects. Both are just fine, they just use different sources of protein and have different flavors. Get small containers in different flavors of both varieties over time if you can. You might find that they really like one more than another. Off the top of my head the watermelon/mango and with insects versions of pangea I'd try, and the repashy classic, grubs n fruit, and purple cgd. In that order. 1/2 lb of pangea lasts me about 3.5-4 months between my current two cresties and a leachie. The little 2oz and 3oz sizes either brand sells would go pretty quick. Store them in the freezer in airtight containers and they last a really long time so you could switch around.
I ordered this one https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000MD3MFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I called my local pet store and their reptile specialist said to take tank temps and then tell him about it and he will figure out what may be reasons why she is not eating
Unless your sick girl looks like she might shed, I would give the healthy one the wet hide and the sick one the dry hide. I doubt the problem is humidity and usually dry heat is better for sick desert animals.
Did the ball python apologize after it bit you? Mine would.
I know the feel of having to drive hours to get anything. Do you have a small local pharmacy? They should have the syringes and pedialyte. It will be in the baby feeding supplies section. Make sure you get unflavored, the flavored one is gross. (I tasted it when my parrot was sick a few months ago. The plain kind is fine.) You can syringe her just that for now to get her some electrolytes. That and some mealies in the blender would be excellent too. The mealworm/pedialyte mixture might even be accepted off a spoon, if it's enticing enough.
It's pretty unlikely that it's a genetic problem if she's just a mack snow. Beautiful morph though.
Just out of curiosity, what does she think if you crush a mealworm's head with a spoon and then offer it?
If you have amazon prime or are willing to pay for faster shipping, This grub pie would be perfect.
Added the heat lamp about last Monday. I'm using this lamp with this bulb
She's a little over a year old. I believe her birthday was in October/November. She hasn't been eating as frequently (every 2-3-4 days), leading up to this almost week and a half without eating. I'm not sure if that's a normal decrease or not. Either way, I'm regulating the heat a bit more right now, so we'll see if that helps at all.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Calcium-without/dp/B000UJPHL8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1449480666&sr=1-5&keywords=reptile+calcium is what I use for my leo. I have a much smaller container of the same brand that has vitamin D in it that i use rarely. I probably would not suggest using a UVB light- they come out at dawn and dusk so a bright light would quite possibly confine them to their hides, as they would assume it is daytime by the light.
Did you ever try using a UVB light? Make sure you know what kind of light to get before purchasing. I would recommend a desert light, as they come from the deserts of Australia. For instance, I have a leopard gecko that would require a desert UVB versus a tropical UVB. Also, please note that UVB lights stop emitting ultraviolet rays long before they stop emitting light, so replace them about every 6-8 months, even if it looks like they didn't burn out yet. Finally, if your cage is pretty small (ex: 10 gal) and the UVB light shines light in the entire cage instead of half of it, then turn it off at night to simulate nocturnal activity. this is the kind I use for my leopard geckos, and would probably work on beardies, too. I prefer Exo Terra's and Zoo Med's products over companies with lower quality products like Zilla. Hope this helps! Good luck with your pet!
As a pet store employee myself, try not to rely solely on pet store employees for your information. They often get little formal training on the care of the animals (this is especially true at large chain stores) so they may know the basics but any additional knowledge they have is going to come from individual research and personal experience. There's a chance they might really know their stuff, but it's always a good idea to do additional research on your own before purchasing a pet.
The heating pad needs to be on the bottom of the tank. Leopard geckos need this heat on their belly to help digest food. You want the floor above the heating pad to be at 90F, so I suggest you buy a digital thermometer with a probe like this so you can see the actual temp of the ground. Those dials only show the ambient temperature and aren't very accurate. If the heating pad is too hot (and they often are) you can either get a thermostat (which is pricey but easy) or a lamp dimmer (cheap, but you may have to adjust it daily). As other people have said, the lights aren't really necessary unless your house gets cold. As long as he has that belly heat that should be enough :)