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Might be your solenoid went bad. Mine did same thing, press accelerator get the click but no movement at all and then cart would lose all power, but maybe yours is still getting a bit of current to allow it to move slightly. Easy enough to replace yourself! golf cart solenoid on amazon for 36v
Not sure I fully understand what you're saying here, sorry.
I'm familiar with trickle chargers, but all the ones I've ever seen were "dumb" chargers - - on when turned on and off when turned off, no voltage sending or auto on/off. The problem with that is that even at a super low setting like 2 amps, six months is gonna leave you with dried toast for batteries. Club Car chargers/OBC setups are supposed to kick on automatically to do a maintenance charge, but in my experience that rarely if ever works.
I really think your best bet is something like https://www.amazon.com/ezOutlet3-Internet-Enabled-Android-Controllable/dp/B0861NX6H2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Web+IP+Power+Switch&qid=1619969257&sr=8-6 that can turn an outlet on remotely one weekend a month or something to kick your "smart" charger on. Or maybe chain a pair of mechanical weekly timers.
Got that right. Looks like this thing.
New 73290-G02 Reverse Buzzer Continuous Tone 36V 48V for EZGO 1996-current Electric TXT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZR46XBX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y0ZJD003K2Y9NE3PC1BH
I picked this up on Amazon. Works pretty well, only had to drill two holes. Take a couple minutes to take on and off, simple really.
Honestly the best thing to do is send it back and buy something like this. https://www.amazon.com/DROK-090692-Waterproof-Voltmeter-Measurement/dp/B00IG1AYEW/ref=sr_1_102?dchild=1&keywords=golf+cart+voltage+meter+48+volt&qid=1621956825&sr=8-102
That gauge is almost totally worthless. Without knowing the actual voltage of the pack you can't really know when the batteries are low.
If you do want to hook that up you just need wires to the positive and negative on your pack and then attach them to the gauge. Run them to the same position that the wires running to your controller are attached.
I have a 36V EZGO and just added a 36-12 converter for <$20. That way it's pulling power from the whole battery pack... and I don't have to recharge one special battery separately.
The input range is actually 30-60V so it would work for your setup as well. What kind of accessories are you planning to run?
I bought these in July of 2019
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQVX3JW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are already completely fried and need to be replaced. Let me know if you find something more durable.
Here you go:
Here is the amazon link,
Nilight 39Inch 252W LED Work Light Bar Spot Flood Combo Fog Light Driving Lights Offroad Lighting for SUV UTE ATV Truck 4x4 Boat,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NZH5XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-gKeEb8XXTE99
Get the wire harness that is made for this as it comes with relay and is prewired. Really good value.
Here's what you need. It's 20 amp, but unless you're running a ton of high-draw accessories all at once, it'll be sufficient. They're simple enough to wire; the 'Input' she goes to the battery, the 'Output' side goes to whatever 12v device(s) you want to power. I run a head/taillight kit, USB ports, and ground effects lighting off mine, and it works perfectly fine. (And I have a similar LifePO4 battery).
Hello, buddy. Glad that you like our new floor mat, our product is on the Black Friday Deal. If you have any issues, you can contact with us directly. Here share you the link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG394Z95
Or you can search the words "ezgo txt golf cart floor mat" then "sort by New Arrivals" to find it out.
The easiest thing to check is your cables,. Make sure they're clean and properly turned. If they are, then you're probably either looking at a failing solenoid (not super likely, imo) or, more likely a failing MCOR. Yours should be this one. It could also be the motor controller, but let's go with the cheaper option, first. :)
Do you know if this is the correct part for a 2011 TXT? speed sensor
It's also possible that the relay in your charger has decided it's had enough of living. Not an uncommon issue; I've replaced quite a few of them over the years. It's not hard to replace: just remove the charger's cover, remove the small bolts holding the relay in place, swap the wires one at a time from the old relay to the new, bolt the new relay back in place, put the cover back on. And they're cheap, so even if that's not the problem, you're not out much. And if it is the OBC, don't bother replacing it; too expensive for what it does. Bypass it by clipping the black wire coming out of the back of the charger port (leave yourself as much length as possible), then, using a butt connector, add enough new wire (of the same gauge!) to reach the last-negative battery terminal, put a ring terminal on it, and connect it directly to the last-negative terminal. Then buy an aftermarket charger. I've had good luck with these., but there's plenty of options out the. Best of luck!
It sounds like your speed sensor may have failed. It's pretty common, and thankfully it's an easy and cheap fix! It's located on the motor (though for the life of me I can't remember if it's the left or right side). The outer part comes off with a couple of screws and a modular connector. The magnet is held in place with a hex screw. Likely it's only the magnet has failed; the tiniest crack is enough to render it useless. Replace both parts anyway, just to be safe. Be careful when reinstalling the new magnet; you want it tight, but not so tight you crack the new magnet). A simple test to check speed sensor functionality: with the brake off, push the cart. If you can roll it more then a few feet and the cart doesn't beep at you and slow down, the sensor has failed. Note: Sensors vary depending on which motor is installed, and if the cart has regenerative braking. This is one of the most common types If yours looks like this, then that should fix your problem. I had a cart in my shop last year that came in doing 8 and left doing 17 after I replaced the sensor. Best of luck!
How do you other wires in the system look? Are they big enough? Especially at the ends- is there any sign of heat up, degradation, or, bad connections to the crimps? The easiest explanation is a loose connection at the battery.
Regardless of what the issue is, the root of your problem of an overheated lug is a high resistance point in the system. So, sorry if this is captain 👨✈️ obvious, but you have a bad connection at or near where it burned up.
This would be exasperated if it was heavily loaded, as you’d be pulling full or near full current the whole time.
All the above could cause it. I was able to replace the lug with a new one per advice I found on here and fixed mine. If you want to be proactive (I did this too) they have nicely made full cable sets on Amazon $40.
Golf Cart Battery Cables Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PQC3WQK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Good luck!
would this work? It's just an electrical connector (mine has a 6 pin connector as well) so does cart model number much matter?
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DGCZLSZ/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A10XJE5MEQEKRY&psc=1
We also have the same cart with the same batteries. I don’t like suggestion Amazon links but here’s the one I installed almost two years ago: Amazon
Not sure if the bluetooth will output, it's probably set to input only (so your cellphone audio will go to the radio, and out the "car" speakers, not radio bluetooth out to bluetooth speaker). The Q&A says it will, but the description etc says otherwise (and maybe the translator didn't get the real question).
Do you have a hole to mount it in? They make kits if not:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JH9GVVF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_RWFX595XBCYCSMZGKTH1
Otherwise, just ground, accessory, and constant power (and antenna if you want radio, and you might have to do speakers as mentioned)
Also, the radio linked doesn't seem to actually support car play, it does car mirror like a lot of cheap ones do. (Even though the title says it, the description and reviews say otherwise, be careful!) although I see a bunch of other radios that say it more explicitly for even cheaper if you search.
I use a Lester Summit Series II, but I also am pretty sure that our old charger was part of the reason one of the old batteries exploded while driving. The price has gone up (on Amazon) since I bought ours a year ago, I was kind of hoping to future-proof myself in case I want to upgrade to 48-volts or lithium batteries next time (currently have 36v lead-acid).
Interesting. Everything I’ve read said not to leave it off the charger that long
This is the charger I got. They state “The third stage is a trickle charge stage to keep your batteries topped off. The amps during this stage are 6A”
So, do you think as long as I fully charge it before leaving I could leave it unplugged for a few weeks?
I use one of these. Goes thru the steering wheel and roof frame. Obviously if a thief wanted it he could cut the wheel or frame but it is a good deterrent.
You can go th the auto parts store & get a marine type terminal to go over the remaining post & it will have a stud on it. Just dont use the provided "wing nut", get a real nut.
Heres an example.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GXYJS1B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I was thinking of hooking this up to it? and maybe add a fuse block so I could see if I can hook other devices up to it in the future.
Amp caddy has different options. It has a claw that you can attach it just about anywhere - I’ll take mine off and attach it to our tailgate tent at the beach.
Golf Speaker with Mount, 40 Watt Bluetooth Portable Ampcaddy Version 3 Pro Max Bluetooth Speaker and Mount with Loud Stereo Sound and Bass Boost, 12-Hour Playtime, Extended Bluetooth Range, Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YNKNTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_P9WWNWK647Q9ZY1MZFFF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just mounted this to our ClubCar. Mounted to the rear of the roof, ran the wired down through the roof support and into the battery compartment. Looks great.
Yes clean as mentioned previously. And also add a protectant. I like brush on rather than spray as it is neater.
NOCO NCP2 CB104 4 Oz Oil-Based Brush-On Battery Corrosion Preventative, Corrosion Inhibitor, And Battery Terminal Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AWO4NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PP3RR118Z72QYSPTHQDZ
For the amount of added cost for the eco charger I may just do ring terminals from the batteries to an SAE plug. Then wire another SAE plug to the charger and not mount it in the cart.
I spoke with ampere time regarding this charger.
43.8V 8A Quick Charger for 12S 36V LifePO4 Battery Pack with Cooling Fan Smart Auto-Stop Electric Bike/Car/Forklift Smart Charger with M8 Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JCCKRP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9K89XX34ZCF20M3PJ9NY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They said it will work but will take 12.5 hours to charge? This is an 8 amp charger as opposed to the 2.5 (i believe) charger you recommended. Re
It does seem to take 5 hours to fully charge instead of 1 or 2. Im not particularly in a rush and I have solar panels but for $50 the price was right. There are $300 chargers out there but I couldnt find any that went over 36V and I needed at least 40V. Maybe this will be an upgrade I do in the future to a higher amp charger.
The old charger for the lead acid had whats called an SB50 plug so I clipped the ends of my new charger and wired it into the SB50 connector below. I guess depends on what year/model carts but Ive seen a variety of different connectors. I could have directly wired/soldered everything up as well but I wanted the option to detach the charger if ever need be.
I bought the 54" Ark Motoring rack found on Amazon. I didn't have crossbars to attach the rack to the cart so I customized a crossbar platform to fit the rack out of cedar and attached it roof with screws and rubber washers.
Totally just stalked this FB post but found this little buddy in Sherwood which would be a much better deal if you can swing the extra cash:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/235547217797059/
Not sure if you require gas but these 48v club cars will do ~20mph (with controller speed code 4 set by dealer) and go for 15-20 miles on a single charge.
I bought an amp that is blue tooth and I just stream my Spotify. No FM radio here is a link to the amp
BOSS Audio Systems MC900B 4 Channel Weatherproof Amplifier – Bluetooth, 500 Watts, Bluetooth Multi-Function Remote, Full Range, Class A/B, 4-8 Ohm Stable, Aux-in, RCA Outputs, USB Charging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IBI518Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_5JN92JPA1DB1641DFAV7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>https://offerup.com/item/detail/532651661/
It realy depends on controller type and throttle of the DS and the year of the precedent. Since it's a 2004 DS, it will probably have an IQ controller or it still could be a series controller. If there was a picture of the f/r switch, I could tell you which controller it has. The throlle on the DS is probably an mcor.
If the precedent is newer, it will have an excel controller but if it's older, it could have an IQ controller. The bigger concern is the type of batteries. If the precendent has 12V batteries, I would definitely go with the DS. We tend to take the cart out for hours at a time and 4 x 12V batteries just don't have the run time or life span of 6 x 8V batteries. If you're in SC, then cold isn't too much of a factor but 4 x 12V also are the worst in colder weather (<50 degress).
Overall, it really depends on your usage. Dependning on where you live, it makes a difference how long and where you can drive. If you're looking for something to ride around the yard or subdivision, then it won't really matter which battery type it has.
I've owned plenty of both DS and Precedents and while the precedent looks newer, I think the DS it a better contructed cart. There is a lot more plastic parts on the precedent, most of the bolts are metric, and I find the DS to be roomier in the front seat.
So basically, it both carts have 8V batteries, it really is going to boil down to your preference on the physical appearance and if you care about the contoller type.
I asked for pictures of the batteries to check the date. Want a club car electric and plan on doing upgrades myself so just want something in decent condition with newer batteries, trying to go under $2500. I also like the older body style of the club cars like this one and blue is my preferred color. Anything else I should know about this year/model?
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There is also this one that is more expensive but is newer, has nice rear seat. https://offerup.com/item/detail/532651661/
It's tough on a six-pass. If you were to buy an enclosure for it, you can get one with space at the back to cover your bags/bagrack, with a zipper halfway down for access. But the 6p enclosures are pricey. A cheaper option would be something that just goes on the bag itself, like so: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Wedge-Easy-Access-Cover/dp/B000BT7E8Q
They make it for the g16-22 body.
10L0L Golf Cart Deluxe LED Light Kit for Yamaha G22 with RGB Headlight Daytime Running Light Low High Beam Turn Signal Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8N65B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DYFG9WF1T8DC42E33TZF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I installed the entire kit except for the brake pad. I don’t need brake lights and I am not fond of the pressure pad application. Otherwise I did this all from a fresh start. No lights were cut out on my body.
Waterproof Monitor DC 4.5-150V 12/24/36/48V Volt Battery Meter Voltage Tester Automative Electric Cars Gauge Golf Cart E-Bike Bicycle Motorcycle Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NZV7K3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apanp_w9CJJVF5ykjuI
I bought a voltage reducer that has 3 input wires Positive, Ground and Key Switch.
I wired the reducer to each and when I turn off the cart with the key my voltage reducer is then off and all accessories are off. I actually installed a fuse block to the output of the voltage reducer and attach all the accessories to the fuse block. It makes it a lot easier to manage the accessories.
If you bought a voltage reducer that doesn’t include a key switch wire then I believe you would need to install a relay from the key switch line. The key switch line is not rated for the amp draw of a reducer.
You other option is to install the reducer direct to the battery but put it on a switch. Kinda annoying but that would work.
This is the one I use on my carts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Voltage-Reducer-for-240-Watt-20-Amp-Battery-Pack-48V-Step-Down-Reduce-to-12V-/223540425580?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
This is the fuse block I use: Ancable 6-Way Boat Fuse Block with Ground, 6 Circuits ATC/ATO 12 Volt Fuse Junction Block with 24 Pcs Fuses Included, LED Light Indication & Damp-Proof Cover for Automotive Car, Boat, RV, Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L36VMP5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZND028EXTWTSVM2SH2DP
CLUBRALLY Golf Cart 4 Fender Flares-2 Front and 2 Rear fit Club Car DS Precedent,Yamaha G22 G29,EZGO RXV and TXT with Stainless Steel Screw kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KZRMC7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P9MQE0H8EZ73YV8BATTQ
Thank you! Any suggestions? Looking at this one currently. Also attached serial number info.
(https://imgur.com/a/Tf5Xuks/)
10L0L 48V 20A Fast Charge Golf Cart Battery Charger,Intelligent Battery Charger for Golf Cart with Connector Plug for Yamaha G29 (Input 110V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XKDH7XD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S2M1KMBN2TPGX3N7D6WK
I ended up going with a FORM. I don’t want to wait 2 weeks for Amazon as in my experience things that show that long of a delivery window often get lost. I also looked at their site and they are sold out so I’m not optimistic that Amazon would be reliable. the FORM has good reviews and an 18 month warranty. I looked at the Lester but couldn’t find one that fits my cart. Fingers crossed I didn’t screw up. Appreciate the help guys.
FORM 15 AMP Yamaha G29 Drive & Drive 2 Battery Charger for 48 Volt Golf Carts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0859KVF7L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0YZQAFZFPAESS7NPNDEC
It's not good for the batteries to run your 12-volt accessories off just two batteries... they won't discharge at the same rate as the other four and it'll cause premature wear.
What I recommend (and have installed on our 36-volt EZGO) is to buy a 36-volt to 12-volt reducer on Amazon. You connect it to the entire pack, and then you can run all your accessories from the reducer which is now pulling power from all six batteries evenly.
Here is the one I am using: dkplnt 20A 240W 12v Golf Cart 48V 36V to 12V Converter Voltage Regulator Reducer Transformer Waterproof with Fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KDFQ4JT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_DH5F9X39WH069FAV23P8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's how I have it installed... the wiring is really simple. https://i.imgur.com/XAtb46r.jpg
Sounds like your MCOR is bad. It's an easy fix with several videos on YouTube. Here's the part. https://www.amazon.com/10L0L-Accelerator-Controller-103327901-Precedent/dp/B07PDRMC6G?pd_rd_w=xjwoo&pf_rd_p=bd21ac36-fc3c-469f-acce-68814d02eac3&pf_rd_r=X95G45RHEJ35QHM4C6G9&pd_rd_r=aed74a9f-53d9-4b80-b2b5-675baf1d3613&pd_rd_wg=qpe...
SELTERM UL Listed Marine Grade Wire Lugs, Battery Cable Ends, Tinned Copper Eyelets, Tubular Ring Terminals, Closed End Crimp Connectors — (8 AWG to 250 MCM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073FCHTRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PKFAKQWFC5Q4J5J1Y79Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I used these in 1/0 and they seemed like they were pretty nice but I guess I’m not sure what would make them better or worse
10L0L 4 Passenger Golf Cart Cover Fits EZGO, Club Car and Yamaha, 400D Waterproof with Extra PVC Coating Sunproof Dustproof - Two Side Zippers (Both Driver and Passenger Side) - Black Army Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9CNC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N33X6KV98PRWKV680Y9R
This is the one I have and it is pretty good quality. Has elastic around the bottom for a snug fit and has a strap that goes under the cart to make sure it stays on.
Not an overhead system, but the Ion Surf fits perfectly in the dash. We use one on our Precedent and the sound is great.
If you go the simpler route, take a look at this. I bought one and couldn't be more happier.
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This is a link to a kit on Amazon. It has the rectifier, relay and breaker. Though you may only need the rectifier, it's nice to have one of everything. It's likely the rectifier, as it's the only bit on this charger that would cause a short other than the transformer. If that's the case buy a new charger. I would recommend the Lester Summit II.
I didn't want mirrors hanging out on the sides - too easy to break, I thought - and I wanted to see more than what's right behind the cart, so I went with this panoramic one. Very happy with the outcome but it does take a little getting used to. No problem with vibration for me, but I mounted it as far forward as I could.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0856YGT3Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wireless remote on/off switch to replace the keyed alike systems we all have. After pouring thousands into my custom cart, it bothered me to know that most CCP keys could turn it on and drive off. This removes the wires from the key switch and gives you two long distance wireless remotes to turn it on and off instead. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CQGXCRT/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_73Y6FbMPGKFNM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Golf carts have what is known as a "starter/generator". Automobiles have a starter (which uses battery power to turn the engine at startup, to create compression in the cylinders so the gas will combust) and a separate alternator (which recharges the car battery using power provided by the combustion). On golf carts, these two functions are combined into a single device, the starter/generator (or s/g), which turns the engine initially, then acts like an alternator once the engine is running, in order to recharge the battery.
Your starter/generator will be mounted above and behind the engine and have a pulley connected to the smaller of your two belts. The s/g itself will look something like so:
I have a 2008 club car precedent. Just installed seat belts as they’re required where our cart runs. Bought this kit from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XKGR957/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.jvFFb2J52X6K
But then I also needed a bracket to anchor the seat belts to. Your Precedent might need it too. Picked one up from Buggies Unlimited for $30.
Amazon has a lot of this stuff. The below link will probably work verify the cart and year. If you are going to buy a few things check out buggies unlimited or golf cart king. Both have all of these accessories and parts and often have deals.
10L0L (2 Rear Shock Absorbers for Club Car DS Gas Electric Golf Cart 1988 & Up, G&E 2004-Up Precedent 1013164 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVBJ29L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vstDFbDE1CRKS
Craig’s list, offer up, let-go will be $200 ish. Amazon sells a small 36 volt charger. Takes longer to charge (5x longer) but does the job just fine. Make sure the plug is compatible with your year.
Just installed this last weekend. It looks awesome. Shouldn’t be hard to wire it to your light switch but you’ll need to add longer wires. You’ll need to get a voltage reducer too. They’re cheap on amazon.
There is a guy on Amazon and Etsy that does it. Same guy, sometimes the prices are different, I went with the cheaper of the two, here is an example:
Club Car Pre-2000 DS Custom Golf Cart Front Seat Cover Set PLUS Rear Seat Cover Set Combo - TWO STRIPE STAPLE ON https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTC5SMX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4cgfEb8AFAC2P
Well, you could go this route:
https://www.amazon.com/EH29C-Robin-Remanufactured-Engine-Outright/dp/B01KYJA46Q
(Note, I am NOT sure thats the correct engine, just an example)
There are a few shops that will provide a rebuilt engine and you ship yours back as a core. Might be a good way to save some $ if you dont mind wrenching. You might need to get a few tools here and there, but you could probably swing it. Hardest part is getting the clutch off and the old engine out.