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That's a pretty blurry photo, but it looks like it calls for a security hex bit, size unknown. Something like this would include what you'd need.
https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/the-essential-woodworker
https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Furniture-Making-Ernest-Joyce/dp/0806971428
If you also search Google Book that are free, Griffin and others will show up for free as they are out of copyright.
I have a first aid kit on a hook on the doors of my handtool cabinet; something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/First-Aid-Only-Weatherproof-Plastic/dp/B009HQOO0U/ref=sr_1_46?dchild=1&keywords=osha+first+aid+kit&qid=1625618825&sr=8-46
Never had to use it (knock on wood), but its there if I do need it.
I'm not surprised, lose the microbevel for rough work, and sharpen the irons you are using at 25 degrees. IMNSHO, microbevels are good for final surface prep only (e.g., smoothing) and not for rough stock prep; so its no surprise to me that you are visiting the stones as often as you are. Personally, I think microbevels are overhyped, and have limited application, again, for final smoothing, but unless you have very squirrley grain, you sacrifice little by going to the standard 25 deg bevel. Oh, and don't "oil" the sole, use paste wax, or apply some paraffin wax (called petroleum wax in the UK), which works wonders. The latter comes in bars, like soap, and you just apply some to the sole whilst working. https://www.amazon.com/Gulfwax-Paraffin-Wax-1-Lb/dp/B00NE6BBR8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=gulf+wax&qid=1620677835&sr=8-3
good luck, and keep working!!
If your dad wants to do nice dovetails, he needs a good dovetail saw. Even a cheap chisel can be made very serviceable, but a good saw makes a world of difference.
You can easily spend more than $100 on a nice dovetail saw.
I do not own this saw, I've just heard this website highly recommended
If your budget is like mine, this might be more in your range.
I know you said budget friendly but this is literally the most important thing you own as a hand tool woodworker. None of the other tools matter if they aren’t sharp. I’m noob and f’d around with stones for a while but the dmt plates are what allowed me to really get my tools sharp. And a honing guide. No shame in using a honing guide. https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Sharp-Diamond-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B01FPP46W2/ref=mp_s_a_1_13. Just my opinion based on my own experience.
Chris Schwarz blue workbench book https://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Revised-Design-Theory-Construction/dp/1440343128/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8NHTHC4AQ85JGSPPWMEA is a good resource that discusses the pros and cons of many vises. If you don't want to buy it (its a really good book so I would suggest you do) you could see if your library has it. It helped me in making some decisions about vises.
You’re looking for this.
Woodraphic Professional Dual Function Scriber Gauge for Measuring and Marking - All in One Aluminum Steel Framing Tool for Professional Carpentry Use - 8 inch Imperial https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8S8KZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JVPC9FTD4B95S5Q4F043?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
FWIW, I've been having good luck with a basic vise screw from amazon built into a leg vise. I put it together about 6 months ago.
The bench is even outside (though under a carport, so no/minimal rain) and the screw hasn't rusted at all even though I still haven't gotten around to coating it with finishing paste wax. Maybe the humid summer will change that...
Fair enough. Right now it's a Dali piece.
Edit: I guess I trusted the sales page too much which states it is "ideal for hand cutting mortises"
Try mutton tallow, heavy duty especially for salt air environments. https://www.amazon.com/McQueens-Mutton-Tallow-Flande-Carnero/dp/B01N096GFA/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=mutton+tallow&qid=1600218963&s=hpc&sr=1-2
Milescraft makes a drill guide that essentially does just this, it works pretty well from what I've heard.
I have a “dust right” can from Rockler that connects to my shop vac. I clean up shavings all the time. It doesn’t collect ‘everything’. Maybe 5% of the smallest stuff will go to the shop vac. But it works more than well enough, is mounted on nice casters, and doesn’t take up much space.
Dust Right Dust Separator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHGJC8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4RliFb0SAKBQZ
To add. I could just use my shop vac. But the canister would fill up pretty quickly. And yes, the inlet of the shop vac would probably clog sometimes. The dust right never clogs.
I just picked up this one off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCW6BAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rHZrFbNSXYF98
It’s a Narex and I really like how it’s thin compared to other marking knives. I’ve found it helps a ton with transferring dovetails.
Looks like an SDS chisel.
Example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-P-25111-Chisel-30X170-Multi-Colour/dp/B000UYZK06
I've only had it about a year, but it's holding up well even though my bench is outdoors (under a carport, so mostly protected). I wiped a layer of regular paste wax finish onto it and that's all I've done to treat it.
It's not quite as cheap as Rex Krueger's $30 vise but it's a lot less work to install, haha
Rust is caused by humidity in the air, and temperature changes that condense the water from the air upon the tools. Chests help with this as it moderates the temp swings, and also controls the humid air flow.
You can also get some bulk desiccant on Amazon (used for drying flowers) to put in cloth sacks that will absorb the humidity in the chest; or a "Goldenrod" device (used for gun safes) that you plug in. https://www.amazon.com/GoldenRod-Original-Dehumidifier-12-Inch-725721/dp/B00D1WYXR0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2ABEHO17IIU2N&dchild=1&keywords=goldenrod+dehumidifier+for+gun+safe&qid=1628017385&sprefix=goldenrod%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-5
I don't have those extreme humid conditions, so I just have a bottle of Camellia oil and wipe them down after use. https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsubaki-Japanese-Maintenance-Camellia/dp/B001TPFVHC/ref=asc_df_B001TPFVHC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198077680239&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17339704598038884629&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h...
The tape? Its about $18 on amazon. Regarding the plexiglass parts for the shooting board, yes, it is a bit pricy. But it is a jig that will last a lifetime.
that could work, we have folding saw horses and I can get a piece of plywood.
If I go with such a setup, I guess I would need something like this to hold wood pieces tightly?
Looks like a good one. I have the 7-inch Ryoba from Suizan: https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-japanese-ryoba-double-woodworking/dp/B07HGQXXWC/
I like it, but it’s a bit small for big resawing jobs. Seriously considering getting a rip panel saw for anything over 8 inches thick or so. I’ve had to resaw panels along the thin side lately, and it can get tedious and tiresome with a short saw.
I disagree with this opinion. I suggest what u/Lord_Greezer had recommended. Try both. And you CAN get a cheap backsaw for far less that $70. This from Amazon requires very little setup for the cost. You can pickup a saw file from Harbor Freight for a few bucks and have a saw that will last a lifetime, assuming you like the western style (if you do, you're going to have to learn to sharpen a saw anyway). Nothing wrong with either, just try both and find what works for you.
If you are completely new to woodworking and don’t have any tools, there are things that you should get before worrying about chisels.
When you do get them, you will also need a good wooden mallet to strike them. Keeping them sharp/honed is very important, so you will also need sharpening tools. I personally use a Norton Whetstone that has that has 4000/8000 grit (this one).
If you are on a limited budget, I suggest starting with a small cheap set from Home Depot or something. Either that, or individually purchase one or two quality vintage ones. I’ve got a handful of awesome vintage chisels if you are interested.
I got this one on sale like 6 months back:
It’s pretty great and I don’t have any complaints
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086VXP2VV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_-wWXFb9MADKX4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the ones here. They don't claim to be a name brand. It's just some cheap Chinese Amazon brand, that put out a promo code. Probably not super accurate but for woodworking it's fine.
Rather than trying to find one to restore, I took my chances with an off-the-shelf cheap-o plane from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUKBS). I just got tired of visiting Craigslist every day and fretting over which vintage plane would be better to restore on eBay. There's dozens that seem in pretty good shape and in need of a little TLC, but too many for a novice to choose from. After a couple of weeks of indecision, I just went with the one from Amazon. I flattened the sole and sharpened the blade, and it produces shavings! Since I have no idea what I'm doing (and haven't built my shop yet), it's good enough for me. I just chock up some scrap wood in a small vice and keep taking shavings off every night or two.
Also, hello from E. Brainerd!
Okay... Yeah, they each have their place. I've got lots of F clamps too... Got most of them from Amazon. I have several sizes of these (be sure to get Heavy Duty): Jorgensen 3724-HD 24-Inch Heavy-Duty Steel Bar Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005R1HY ... Search the same name as that... Seems that listing is old.
HD sells these same clamps under the Bessey brand. Lowes has them too. Woodcraft and Rockler will also have them (is start at one of those if you have one in your city). Just be sure to get the thicker heavy duty ones. When you look at specs, the clamp pressure is listed. If there are multiple, get the higher one. Small sizes are all lower pressure but the larger ones come in light and heavy duty styles.
All the brands are exactly the same at the heavy duty higher price point. The only difference will be color. The only differentiator will be handle quality (sometimes) but those are replaceable.
Thanks! I got this set on Amazon that includes 300, 600, and 1200 8x3 plates. Great plates and absolutely incredible customer service. Accidentally sent me 2 of the same plate, they said keep that one, they’ll send the correct one. Porch pirate stole that one out of the box and left the empty box-I didn’t put the facts together to realize it was a porch pirate until after I requested the replacement-. They sent another replacement stone! All my correspondence was directly with the company owner via his cell number which he freely gives, can’t recommend them enough.
Dozuki is for dovetails. This one is more general purpose.
SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-nKFbX4N5KZF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My guess is that you are distressing new assembly to make it look like an antique, right? I use a Shinto saw rasp to imitate the effects of rodents on furniture. A coarse or bastard cabinetmakers rasp will also do the job. (I also us a big ring with about 50 keys on it to imitate the effects of children.)
I used this stuff when I glued the leather on my vice. Super easy to work with, and all I did was wrap the leather so it went on the face, top and bottom, and about 1/2 inch on the back of the wood piece, and it's been on there real solid.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743MDKK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZjEnFbHJ7WYCK
I have these Narex chisels. They are certainly much nicer than the cheap plastic handled Stanley I have.
Make sure you have a good way to sharpen. Also I'd recommend getting a cheap beater chisel around 3/4". Good for scraping glue and other things you shouldn't use a chisel for but will anyways
Nice set up! That’s a good idea with the tote, I don’t have a really good way to store my stones yet, I just throw them on a shelf. A lot of people make them out of scrap leather but of course when I went to make one I couldn’t find a single piece of leather, so I just bought this one on Amazon
My setup:
- 300 grit super cheap diamond stone (also used for flattening my other stones)
- 1,000 grit shapton glass ceramic stone
- 16,000 grit shapton glass ceramic stone
- Kurd Kutter spray as my lubricant for diamond stone.
I use a neat little stone holder I got off amazon: holder
I also found a super cheap, but decent sized tote from Home Depot that has a lid which had a lip on it. I can clamp the lid down to my table and the lip keeps water or slurry from going everywhere. Plus I store all my sharpening stuff in it between sessions. (Here is a link to one at Lowe’s: tote
I’d really like to get a strop, but I don’t have one yet. Any good recommendations?
I accidentally cut the tip off my left index finger using a marking knife (was talking to someone while marking out joinery and wasn't paying attention), so if I'm going to be doing a lot of marking I'll put this glove on my left hand (the one that's holding the square): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CX2C1D3
I wear these DEX FIT gloves a lot of the time (scrub plane, pull saw, lifting larger pieces of wood, etc.). I take them off when doing precision chiseling or measuring though:
https://www.amazon.com/DEX-FIT-Resistant-Comfort-Washable/dp/B074DV268M
Have the same one. I had issue replacing the grinding wheel. Hard to find one with spindle that small. Ended up putting one of these in the middle of the new grinding wheel as a spacer
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009Q737OY
Some styles of furniture, like Arts and Crafts or Shaker, are more hand tool joinery based than others. I really like this book for Arts and Crafts furniture: https://www.amazon.com/Drawings-Craftsman-Furniture-Revised-Expanded/dp/1497101107/ref=asc_df_1497101107/? It doesn't have techniques but it has a ton of shop drawings showing the joinery of each part. Pick something small and start building!
Some cheap chinese maker. Looks identical to this one, which is a POS if they are selling it for $15 new!!! Hard pass on FB, they are looking for a sucker unless they are selling it for $5 and ship free. Take a look:
I started out with these exact ones. They were ok for chisels but not for plane irons. Not wide enough. They don't do well if you're working more than just occasionally.
I upgraded to the Ultra Sharp Diamond Sharpening Stone Set and never looked back. They are just a few extra bucks more and they work much more efficiently compared to those.
Here’s a link for anyone interested.
I rather wood or hard plastic/nylon (I usually use this thing )
I think rubber is the only 'wrong' answer.. you don't want to reduce the force of the hit you want that nice hit, I mean I think most times if you're doing it right you don't need much more force than you'd get just letting the hammer fall on its own..
unless you're morticing then you really want to give it a good whack
General idea would be to make sure the back fence is also square to the non coping side with the plexiglass that runs on a router fence. Mount it to my bench and go at it. I could rabbet it on the outside as well but. Thinking running along my benchtop would be fine?
The theory of rust on tools is not simply a humid environment, but the changes in temperature that allow for the water vapor to condense on the metal, so you either treat the metal with a protectant (I use camellia oil) wiping down with a oil rag before storing away, reduce the humidity in a closed storage container (e.g., chest) with dessicant (the kind they use for drying flowers and sell on amazon works well), or use a "Goldenrod" which deals with both temp and humidity: https://www.amazon.com/GoldenRod-Dehumidifier-Installation-Operation-Prevention/dp/B00D1WYXR0?th=1
All are tried and true solutions. Shipwrights who deal with coastal humidity (and salt) have been known to use mutton tallow, I have a can of McQueens I got a long time ago from Lee Valley and put it on the planes in my traveling toolchest, very effective but you sort of have to wipe it off before using the tools. And a very small amount is all that is needed, a little can has lasted me over a decade.
Everyone is really over complicating a simple issue.
Something like this will self center and quickly enlarge the hole. The specific bit will depend on what size drill you have and how thick your wood is. But it is really a simple matter.
1: Control the humidity. Your wood requires this too.
2: Control the temp(it affects humidity)
3: Like someone else mentioned, cover them in a light oil. I use camilia oil because that's what Lee Neilson recommends in their video.
4: Get something like this to take the rust off(also from Lee): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GACU1Q/
You want to look for a lower voltage and higher amperage. 5V is the max you should need. Any more and you are wasting power that could otherwise go towards speeding up the process. You can look for high current low voltage switching power supplies online. Or get a DC to DC buck converter and use the 12V supply you have now. You ought to be able to get 4V 15A. Here's an example of one.
The other half of it is you need a lot of surface area on your anode. Basically you need about the same surface area for the anode as the surface area of the part you are doing. And don't fall for that "sacrificial" electrode nonsense. All that brown stuff that comes off iron anodes is just newly formed rust and I doubt it enhances the conductivity of the solution. Find some sheet graphite and use that. If you are running the right voltages and using inert anodes the electrolyte should last almost indefinitely.
Good to know.
There’s also this one. I haven’t used it but I like the angled blade for easier sharpening. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077V2R7J2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OE4BDU5TJVY6&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw
I've got got hand stiched, vintage machine made and for the money these are a deal any way you slice it. There on the fine side but great for tool and handle making they are great on I wouldn't go with out them in my kit. Golden Wood Rasp 4Piece Set, Fine Cut, 4"-6"-8"-10", Tapered Rasp for Wood, Leather, Soft Metals, Soft Plastic, Big Comfort Massage Handle Grip, Quality High Carbon Steel Rasp File 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMVPMWM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_VA8G39WN6EGJJAWG4CDH
Gets it done for me. I am getting the larger format cheap plates to give them a try.
Im using plates like these. There are many many sellers of these but they are practically the same.
There’s also larger format thin Diamond plates without the hex pattern.
I use this on my (power) jointer bed. It's a useful width and sticks and then removes without much fuss (though I wouldn't leave it for long unless you wanna really work on cleaning it off).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T8BJ3TQ/
180 then 220 has worked for me simply because that's what I stock. You could certainly want to go higher than that but I'm no expert and 220 is about as high as I end up sanding wood.
I bought these a couple years ago and they work great for my needs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1W616C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think the important part is to look for a holdfast that has been shaped from a tube of steel, rather than cast into the hook shape. That will give you more spring and won't break.
Thanks; I think I'd stumbled upon those before and they also have pins rather than holes. BUT the random other crap Amazon gave me in the search did lead me to this, which looks like a later/modern version:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00024380S "LENOX Tools Hacksaw, Close Quarter (20908908)" ... The description says 18" but the tag in the photo says 6".
and blades "LENOX Tools Replacement Blades for Compact and Close Quarter Handsaws, 10-Pack (20906906)", but it says those are 6 inches, which might be too long (I realize "6 inches" is nominal; coping saw blades are called 6", even though they really 6.5").
I like the Swann Morton blades. Yes, I know they're double beveled, in my experience this makes no difference. I've used several orthodox spearpoint marking knives and I've been disappointed with all of them. The SM blades are sharp as hell and if one breaks or gets dull I just swap it out and I'm back to work. Also I made myself a fancy ebony handle, but the one included in the link above works just fine as well.
> I bought japanese camellia oil for tools. It works great.
Yup. The stuff they sell as "cosmetic" camellia oil has impurities, etc., that cause gummy residue. i got this bottle and it's lasted many years already:
I keep a couple small planes around for chamfering edges quickly, setup a bit courser than my block plane is normally. That level quality is very cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-101-Small-Trimming-Plane/dp/B0006V6LSS
IMO that sort of plane is basically disposable. I'd ditch the x-acto
How to true a combination square from Fine Woodworking.
See also, the Essential Guide to the Steel Square book for all other squares.
They are still around in larger sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-21325-Ford-Auto-Wrench/dp/B071F1Y6JM
There is a revival of another wrench from this era, the Metmo grip:
https://www.metmo.co.uk/collections/frontpage/products/metmo-grip
They are still around in larger sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-21325-Ford-Auto-Wrench/dp/B071F1Y6JM
There is a revival of another wrench from this era, the Metmo grip:
https://www.metmo.co.uk/collections/frontpage/products/metmo-grip
whoever "they" is, they are misleading you. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-960-Contractor-Grade-Angle/dp/B0000223QX/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=8MzAs&content-id=amzn1.sym.e4bd6ac6-9035-4a04-92a6-fc4ad60e09ad&pf_rd_p=e4bd6ac6-9035-4a04-92a6-fc4ad60e09ad&pf_rd_r=9JPZZ7B98JDDJQ18RNVT&pd_rd_wg=rb7Kj&pd_rd_r=493eb5c1-9ecb-433b-b630-b5f7b1867b10&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
NJ as well here. Changes in temperature are your enemy, that's what deposits water on the tools. The steel remains colder for longer and humidity condenses on the steel, producing surface rust. Lots of temp swings in a garage. Best is to make a chest and keep your planes and chisels in it. Desiccant in the chest also helps, put in cloth bags and you can dry it out: https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Quart-White-Silica-Desiccant/dp/B014VM4AZI/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=silica+gel&qid=1660856211&sr=8-14
Also, Camilla oil works for me, https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsubaki-Japanese-Maintenance-Camellia/dp/B001TPFVHC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LVEWALNGCFSO&keywords=KUROBARA+100%25+Pure+Tsubaki+Japanese+Cutlery+Knife+Maintenance+Camellia&qid=1660856385&s=home-garden&sprefix..., I keep a rag infused with it and wipe down tools before putting them away, a little goes a long way; I've had this bottle for over 9 years now and its still half full. Good luck.
Well hell yeah, let's find the eff out. I just got my copy of this guy in and I've been learning about all my wooden planes all weekend.
​
Got a photo of the makers mark on the toe of the plane?
I use a knife I have with waves - a corregated knife made to give that wavy appearance to each cut
like this but mine was 50c from estate sale and id thinner , easy to hold and use https://www.amazon.in/Fruit-Salad-Designer-Cutting-Knife/dp/B07MJ5S5JX
Thank you
And it's not japanning. Japanning is an asphalt based finish that needs to be baked on. Not only does it take a long time, but it's also 110 in my area this past month and I've been taking great pains to not run my oven
This is spray on engine enamel, which I've seen other people recommend since it's got good adhesion and durability
For the painting job, first I brushed/sanded it down to bare cast iron to get all the rust and what little of the original japanning remained off. After that I taped off the areas that needed to stay bare metal (sides, sole, where the frog contacts the bed) and plugged all the screw holes. Then applied about three coats of the enamel
Best practice would probably be to prime first, but I have one other plane done in a similar manner that's seen about a year and a half without any issues so far
Spiritz a small rag and wipe down tools after use, keep the rag with the bottle. A little goes a long way, and the oil does not contaminate the wood.
If you have a really challenging environment, then use this: https://www.amazon.com/McQueens-Mutton-Tallow-Flande-Carnero/dp/B01N096GFA Tallow was historically used widely to treat tools; this works best in coastal environments, I know a wooden boat builder and he swears by it; again, a little goes a long way.
Humidity and temperature swings is what causes cast iron and steel to rust. If keeping them in your garage is you only option, make a chest; Chris Schwarz has several designs that are excellent, the dutch tool chest in particular. I have a friend who is in your same situation; he made a wall hanging cabinet with doors that closed well, and put in one of these: https://www.amazon.com/GoldenRod-Dehumidifier-Installation-Operation-Prevention/dp/B07W8JFN2F and it has worked out very well for him. Also, oil your tools with camellia oil, a little swipe with a spritzed rag goes a long way, I use this on my tools which are kept in a closed wall cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsubaki-Japanese-Maintenance-Camellia/dp/B001TPFVHC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=QMUZ3PBMES7H&keywords=KUROBARA+100%25+Pure+Tsubaki+Japanese&qid=1658494473&s=home-garden&sprefix=kurobara+100%25+pure+tsubaki+japan... and one bottle lasts a long time. Good luck.
You got some old inventory stock. When you see it on Amazon for $28 a can, you know the sharks are out there . . . https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Paste-Wax-1lb/dp/B0000DIWIM
Meh. Regular past wax and treat with pretty much any oil, I prefer Camillia, and no issues. No need to twist your mind around this. If you're in a very salty coastal environment, use this: https://www.amazon.com/McQueens-Mutton-Tallow-Flande-Carnero/dp/B01N096GFA?th=1
It's bulletproof, got that tip from a shipwright.
Either enclose the till as a cabinet, or make a chest. No other way around it. Also, for extra insurance if you enclose either way, consider one of these:https://www.amazon.com/LOCKDOWN-725741-GoldenRod-Dehumidifier-Rod/dp/B00D1WYZ1Y/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YNF27ZF146ZX&keywords=GoldenRod+Dehumidifier+Rod&qid=1657159290&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=goldenrod+dehumidifier+rod%2Csporting%2C113&a...
they really work.
If you can’t buy a drill press consider something like this https://www.amazon.com/Multifunction-Adjustable-Workbench-Universal-Aluminum/dp/B07L3NCN9P/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B07L3NCN9P&psc=1
It’ll help to keep the bit from bending, and make it a little easier to keep a consistent width pilot hole when peck drilling.
So effing brilliant. Just bought a cheap pair to beat on so my "good" speed square remains square. Mr. Pen Metal 7 Inches Rafter Square, Carpenter Square, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLBJ63S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XDEGY96JS2VBCTMZBVCY
Not the best but will get you through till the best is avail https://imgur.com/a/RjK7lbZ $69.00 till the more expensive comes in https://www.amazon.com/MKC-Professional-Chrome-Vanadium-Hornbearn-Woodworking/dp/B08HVLTWVD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=mortise+chisel&qid=1653882956&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFHTk5VUUJSNEtPSFQmZW5jcnlwdGVk...
The better ones have a knob on the bottom to lock them. It doesn't get in the way and holds the blade much firmer.
This is the one to get if you are buying new:
https://www.amazon.com/Sliding-T-Bevel-8-Blade/dp/B0037XS27A
MKC Professional Woodworking Cabinetmakers Mortise Chisel set Chrome-Vanadium Steel with Hornbearn Handles for Carpentry, Woodworking, Carving, Craftsman, Set of 3, 1/4”, 3/8”,1/2” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HVLTWVD/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_1G1Z2A9M06TR77B22GR8 *For best deal good deal low dollar
Here's my top 3 chisel sets on Amazon I've handled flattened 2 of each sets of bench chisels and one set of the mortise chisels. Narex 6 Piece Set Unhandled Premium Chisel (6 pc set 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. 3/4 and 1 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T816DN9/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_Z01FY6WKKKMFF0JDEJ41 you might have to make a handle or 6....
If you only have to detail one small section by hand, #0000 steel wool is quick too. I prefer brass brushes because they leave a little coating that adds character and prevents rust a little bit. I still shoot for a light coat of synthetic oil (ala; Paul Sellers Rag in a Can).
Gear Shield Versa Oil Advanced Odorless All Purpose Synthetic Lubricant - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084Z6YTFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G0CK1ZWVTHBXB3NPRVAB
Odorless!! And the needle applicator is very fine. A little goes a long way!
I suggest buying the following link cool Propagation Station to your girlfriend or boyfriend is the best choice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JW4NZK4/ I bought for my husband for Father’s Day gift.He loves it.
Home depot and lowes have pretty good sandpaper. Also check auto part stores for wet/dry paper. If you can't find that, then buy dive from Amazon
Link to some self stick sandpaper.
I’ve recently discovered vaughn’s bear saw brand. I think it’s a rebranded zet saw(Z-saw), which I think is a brand from Okada Hardware Mfg.
I first learned about zet saws when I found/bought on a used zet saw guide. They are well made tools: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8SL44E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GAV3Z6JRQVVPYYR2ZDWD
The blade on that is the exact size of the bear saw. The only difference is the laser engraving on the blade.
Also, shipwrights I know swear by this stuff in a humid, salty water environment. Back in the day tallow was used by many craftsman to protect their tools. When I put stuff into long term storage I use this.
I would recommend a rali 220 https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01F8RHYOY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YTYZBQQCRH7SQ95NY91D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It is a good one and it easy adjustable, the only drawback is that it has razor blades and if you can't really sharpen them on your own.
I’m feeling like a middle-man opportunity is upon us. $162 plus $20 shipping… $182 = €164 plus our handling fee of €10/ea…
STANLEY Sweetheart Chisels Set, 8-pc. (16-793) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051PCQ7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7RSBRXBZA9VN55K3NNKG
If we sell a million sets… we’ll be rich!! 🤣
Well, enjoy your new set. They are classic. I’ve got a drawer full of orphan chisels. Only one matching 4-piece set of Narex Richters. I’ve always liked those 750’s.
It should be in the sidebar. Is it possible I'm the only one seeing it?
Actually, for $10 more you can get a #778, with dual fence rods, on Amazon; these are not precision planes, hard to screw up, and this one will do everything a vintage Stanley will do. https://www.amazon.com/Faithfull-FAIPLANE778-No-778-Rebate-Plane/dp/B000C750EM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=SIN9AH68OREE&keywords=Faithfull+78&qid=1647391569&s=hi&sprefix=faithfull+78%2Ctools%2C64&sr=1-1
You need a 10A power supply
Some laundry soda
And a container with water. Some rebar or cheap iron you don't care about as well as thick gauge copper wire. Negative lead goes on the rusty item, positive goes on sacrificial metal. Turn the machine to 10 amps and rotate the item in the water occasionally. A few minutes and the rust is gone.
Look up electrolysis rust removal. It's pretty quick and you can use the same set up for electro plating
the LV skew rabbet is simply a pleasure to use and works very well, so I agree the value add is there. There's always the upgrade to a Record 778 with the dual post fence (or the Faithful knockoff, as these are simple planes and not much can go wrong https://www.amazon.com/Faithfull-FAIPLANE778-No-778-Rebate-Plane/dp/B000C750EM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2MG0LTCZ6XGP4&keywords=Faithfull+No.778&qid=1646757965&s=hi&sprefix=faithfull+no.778+%2Ctools%2C46&sr=1-1).
If you get tempted to get a shoulder plane, the LV Medium is the best pick. And while I have the now apparently discontinued LN #98-99 side rabbet, I've heard good things about the LV one https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/joinery/60012-veritas-side-rabbet-plane?item=05P4401 These are very handy tools that you don't use much, but when you do, they are amazing.
Again, I;m in the "fill in with joinery premium tools" camp, as putting in a new Hock iron (I've never needed the chipbreaker and use vintage ones so long as you tune them to mate properly) into a vintage Stanley bench plane that is in good working order will get you very good performance.
This would definitely get you buy I've owned both of these! Also if you can justify the cost of hand stitched rasps I highly recommend it! https://www.amazon.com/Tapered-Leather-Plastic-Comfort-Massage/dp/B07JMVPMWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=27RCIK28ICW9D&keywords=wood+golden+rasp+rasp&qid=1646572992&sprefix=wood+golden+rasps+rasp%2Caps%2C293&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=Wood+Rasp&qid=1646572942&sr=8-16
I found a couple avenues for my planes. - This kit by stanley actually has the old imperial screws as well. Stanley Kit 3 Bailey Plane Screws & Nuts 1-12-702 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015QDL5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HYGEKVF35Y12MW2C1593 unfortunately it was not sold by Stanley in the us, but their customer support pointed me to overseas stores i can obtain them from. - by contacting local irl woodworking associations. They pointed me to one very nice local collector/tool reseller who helped me complete my collection and complete the missing hardware for my planes. I am in the bay area, I was pointed towards Peter Niederberger - while looking up Peter, I found this directory. Do not know how reliable each entry here is, so please do your due dilligence. https://www.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/tools.html
A while ago I saw a recommendation for using Duplicolor Engine enamel, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXVQ, and used it on a #5. It came out perfect and wasn't too thick. Plus the person I gave it too can season the plane in the oven with their other cast iron /s
I'm starting to figure that out lol. I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L3F9NJP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you think screwing the brackets in studs would make a much greater difference than these wall anchors?
$50 is a ridiculous price for a rusty piece of this plane which is $45 new.
I bought this one for $50 but it's a genuine 1954-56 one.
There is a big voucher on this stone on amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DWS-CP8-FC-Classic-Double-Sided/dp/B004RZJ0F0?th=1
Very well reviewed, Stumpy nubs recommends it for example (Trend might be a sponsor but I trust the guy personally). At that price it's unbeatable IMO.
Link for those interested: uxcell Door Cabinet Closet Drawer 7mm Dia Brass Ball Catch Latch Catcher 20pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G76RF2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_C8GW688QR1V544P8CHMM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1