You could use a keg charger (like below) and a jockey box.
MRbrew Keg Charger Dispenser, Mini 0-60 PSI CO2 Regulator Keg Kit, Portable Cornelius Beer keg Regulator with 3/8'' Thread Adapter & Gas Ball Lock Disconnect & Stainless Steel Hose Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HFZC71/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QFVXT9KBEYFCW2B4S960
Not sure what you typed makes sense...
You want to make a kegerator OUT of a keg?
Everything else you posted is subjective and depends on your preferences or what you want to accomplish.
If you want to build a kegerator, you can buy a fridge and this kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036UTZL6
It's the exact one I bought, and I found a $100 upright fridge/freezer combo on Craigslist.
If you want one basically ready to go, search for kegerator on Amazon or Costco and you can have one on your doorstep for less than $400.
Keep in mind you will need to find a place to fill the co2 tank before you can pour.
Both on Amazon.
CHILDHOOD Stainless Steel Kegerator Beer Drip Tray for Universal tap tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BCBSP2H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OX-NCb9E186Y0
PERA Draft Beer keg Faucet with Flow Controller Chrome Plating Shank Tap Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PD8N3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CY-NCbH91DJTW
You might look into a unit like the ITC-308. It's fairly cheap.
Just set the kegerator thermostat as cold as it will go, and plug it into the unit. Then tape the thermometer directly to the keg, halfway up it, and it's the closest thing you're going to get to a direct measurement of the beer temp, which you can then control to your liking with the unit. It should give better consistency than a built in thermostat, since it takes the measurement directly from the keg that way. Just a thought.
This is apparently an error code for a communication error between the display board and the main board. Unplugging the molex connector and reconnecting may fix this, but it may only be a temporary fix.
If it keeps re-occurring, I'd buy an Inkbird external temperature controller, and control the kegerator with that.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Itc-308-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B011296704/ref=sr_1_11
I like the suggestion of a timer to induce a defrost cycle I've never thought of that...just be aware of where that moisture will go. in my case it likely will just end up on the floor through the bottom but assuming there is a way it gets caught in a pan of some sort you should be good.
Also the simpler solution is the the door seals...latches can also work to hold it tightly closed without replacing the seals. some small self tapping screws can be used without much fear of hitting anything important since its right on the edge but of course I can't guarantee anything hah
No problem! So three things that I would consider....
If the danby doesn't have a fan on the evaporator, you can control the temperature with something like an Inkbird. Set the dial to all the way cold, and plug the kegerator in to the "cooling" outlet on the Inkbird:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
If the T-stat is defective, you may have to bypass the T-stat.
However, there are other things than cause the foaming...
instead of having to swap the lines between connections, you can get something like this https://www.amazon.com/PERA-Coupler-Adapter-Disconnect-Conversion/dp/B07XRDP3FV
That is just an example there are plenty of adapter kits out there.
it allows you to create a coupler that just hooks up to the normal ball lock connections and you never have to swap them to switch between commercial kegs and homebrew. If you decide you want more homebrew kegs you can just adapt another coupler etc.
also yes on the 10 ft lines. don't even try 5 ft...
in terms of the manifold/pressure....I only have 2 taps, and I have a dual regulator, but honestly I rarely use them at different pressures. It really depends on what you plan on serving and how often you want to force carbonate your homebrew. you could for instance just shut off the valves to the commercial kegs, turn up your pressure for 24 hours directed to the homebrew keg, and then turn it back down. But if you plan on serving a seltzer alongside an ale etc...you might want to look into a dual regulator. That can always be added later on though or build it yourself...not a big deal.
welcome to the fun and cheers!
I got this one off of Amazon: Link
I got the 25’ one and cut it in half so I have two 12-1/2 ft lines (one for spare). It helped tremendously. I needed to increase my pressure to equalize the keg and the longer line definitely helps reduce flow and foam at the tap.
I use external temp controls on my two units. The one I keep my kegs in I keep the temp probe submerged in a jar of water. This unit works well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVBG8K1/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I saw a few people on here talking about longer lines making a difference. I was really skeptical, but I figured it was worth a try. I went on Amazon and found a beer line.
I installed it, and my foam issues went away. I was amazed.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D44504M7JH791G6A2PFD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This can make a significant positive difference to the amount of foam. Make sure the pipe is well positioned in the tower, to ensure it remains cold. The amazon one has been working well for me for some time.
Coldtower Kegerator Super Tower Cooler with Rocker Switch (Upgraded for MAXIMUM cooling) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KC070SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RH338RG0VVD5KVR5NPPM
Chalkboard Beer Tap Handle For Homebrew Kegerators | Beer Tap Handles White Chalk Marker Included! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SYBLSZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4TBXG4B6H45ZNXXFDDAC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get a longer line. I had the same issue. I changed to a three meter ten foot line and the difference was night and day.
No matter what adjustments I made when I had the five foot line could get a non-foamy pour. Since I put in the new line, I've had no issues.
I use a silica gel canister like this to keep down humidity in my kegerator. I recharge it in my oven every few months.
BREAKING: I finally found the damn thing.
No search term I used brought one up anywhere, until I tried to search for the thread pitch to have a buddy with a lathe cut one for me, then it popped right up. I'm also getting one of these guys:
Thanks to everyone who looked into it though.
I use one like this.
I have this one but there are ways to DIY a lot cheaper, videos on youtube.
Thank you for this advice. Based on the comments I have previously received, this is my plan:
Does this sound feasible? And if so, can you please confirm my understanding of your final comment.
> In the latter case you'd have the primary running at e.g. 20psi, and put a T inside the kegerator and route that to the secondary regulator which would then drop the other gas line to e.g. 10psi.
You are saying that if my desired PSI for EACH line is 10psi, then the psi set at the regulator would need to be 20psi - thus distributing 10psi to each of the lines coming out of the distributor?
I really do appreciate your time on this. Thank you in advance!
I agree, it does sound like a thermostat problem. I'd use one of these temp controllers:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sr_1_3
Homebrewers use these all the time on fridges and chest freezers to control temperature. Turn your thermostat all the way down to the coldest setting, and plug the kegerator into the cooling outlet on the inkbird, and run the inkbird probe past the door seal into the kegerator.
This should work temporarily until you can get the thing fixed.
This coupler kind of sucks, because it has hose barbs instead of beer thread. And you're right; inline disconnects are the only way to do it with that one.
But if you wanted to buy a new one, you can add these adapters to it, and then you can use ball lock disconnects on your beer and gas lines. It's super convenient to swap out kegs or different kinds of couplers in case you get something unusual.
https://www.amazon.com/FERRODAY-Ball-Lock-Coupler-Adapter/dp/B01M7VKJWJ/ref=sr\_1\_1
Hey, so I picked some of these up to thread onto my sanke coupling.
You could sanitize and purge your corny, then connect a jumper between the liquid post of your commercial keg and the liquid post of your corny. Then connect your gas in post on the corny to a line that just goes into a cup filled with sanitizer.
Once you connect low pressure gas to your sanke's gas post, it'll transfer mostly oxygen-free beer to your corny.
The only thing is, you may want to weigh it regularly during transfer so you know when it's full.
Maybe get an external temp controller like used when making keezers. Something like this.
Inkbird Heating Cooling Plug in Temperature Controller for Monitoring Temperature ITC 308 Thermostat https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MNQNV9N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SZ3DY6W027021JD65JAR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
US : QBQFR7VN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F9CQN4K ( 10% code +20% OFF Coupon on the page) Please order from Amazon US website directly.
After receiving the unit, wish you could feedback your using experience on the product detail page.
US : QBQFR7VN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F9CQN4K ( 10% code +20% OFF Coupon on the page)
Please order from Amazon US website directly.
After receiving the unit, wish you could feedback your using experience on the product detail page.
This is what I'm doing, you can zero the dial when the keg is empty for accuracy. One pint is one pound. The challenge is finding a scale thin enough for the keg to fit with the tap attached, with a big enough platform for a keg to sit on, and without a protruding display or something that prevents the keg from sitting on the platform. Here's the scale I'm using, it's big enough for a sixth-barrel keg but the protruding display means it doesn't work for a half-barrel. It's a bit thick too, some kegs are a very tight fit against the top of the kegerator.
I'd invest in a fan that is designed to shoot air into the tower. Amazon sells quite a few. I ordered this and it works great with the housing and hose aiming the air directly into the tower.
Yep- right now I only have 1 pony, but usually I have 2. Will be ordering my Christmas seasonal here in the next 4 weeks so will be back at 2 soon. I haven’t got any of my upgrades at one place. I just did a lot of research about what to upgrade then looked for best prices.
I think I bought most of the components (I’ve upgraded everything except couplers) from EBay or Amazon. I buy all my tap handles from EBay— you can get some great buys on there if you do some digging. If you are starting from a complete stock set up my number one recommended upgrade would be some forward sealing faucets to avoid sticking & sanitary reasons. I bought Perlicks (flow-control) but there are other options out there depending on your preference . My C02 tank came with unit and I get it filled at a local welding shop for 16 bucks.
Another cool upgrade that’s cheap and effective (if you don’t have a deicer) is getting one of these to put in cabinet- it’s really effective in keeping ice off the coil and I don’t think a lot of guys know it’s an option:
New and Improved Eva-dry E-500 Renewable Mini Dehumidifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD0FN8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WY4RD5KBB35QF8NVDFEG
CMBecker Deluxe Beer Faucet Wrench and Tower Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OHMHL7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_24862ANSRPX91364VVWJ
Try this wrench. This is what I used when I had a three tap tower
Looks like a sankey tap. Will work on most US commercial kegs.
You're have to get posts for the gas in and bev out, obviously.
If you have a homebrew keg setup already, these posts are all you need to connect to your existing ball-lock gas and bev lines: https://www.amazon.com/PERA-Coupler-Adapter-Disconnect-Conversion/dp/B07XRDP3FV/ref=sr_1_6_sspa?crid=11MVD6LJX11MA&dchild=1&keywords=sankey+to+ball+lock&qid=1629985111&sprefix=sankey+to+%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-6-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQkhGNUxaSTNWNTI0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzE1MjI4MjlNS0FSS0pCOFUyUSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODI5OTI3M09HSkRWUUM1QU1TUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
If you have a different setup you'll need to find the appropriate posts (be is hose clamp or MFL).
Hmmm... It's a possibility that it has gone bad. If you can I would remove anything you don't want to freeze and set it for freezing temps for a few days. See if it maintains a consistent temperature.
If it holds steady at freezing temps, and you are willing to spend a little money, I like the inkbird thermostat.
Great results so far when cleaning: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2P4TKQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Good luck!
Made my own with these guys: Beer Tap Handle Standard Ferrule and Hanger Bolt Set, 5 of Each (5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5W8O0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1W6614X6RPQNCCRV12KJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B0026GZU0Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F8+beer+tap+handle+nut&qid=1617817359&sr=8-4 Something like this. Pre drill the tap handle and then sink the nut with a screw driver. Check YouTube for some videos. It can be finicky.
I got this one on amazon for $30, and it works pretty great. Relatively quiet, and keeps the tower really cool. You could probably DIY something cheaper but I decided to be lazy on this one.
If you're crafty and want to experiment around with a draft tower cooler they're pretty easy to make. I bought this fan for $12 off amazon and then just hot glued on a funnel that I made from a milk carton and then attached a hose up into the tower.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMJC9NT
I used a 12v wall wort power supply from an old printer that I had laying around. It's not super pretty but it gets the job done. The tower will sweat if its hot and humid enough. Here's a few pictures.
Just be careful on where you coil the beer line, I coiled mine on the top and the cold plate is on the top rear of my kegerator and the beer line got too close and froze. Didn't have any beer and was really confused for quite some time!
If you're crafty and want to experiment around with a draft tower cooler they're pretty easy to make. I bought this fan for $12 off amazon and then just hot glued on a funnel that I made from a milk carton and then attached a hose up into the tower.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMJC9NT
I used a 12v wall wort power supply from an old printer that I had laying around. It's not super pretty but it gets the job done. The tower will sweat if its hot and humid enough. Here's a few pictures.
I honestly don’t know what the kegs are like, but this might be a good lead. Still a little expensive, but I doubt you’ll find anything much cheaper. I think the cost of the co2 cartridges can add up too.
Best of luck!
How long is the hose? (10' is usually the recommended length)
5' - specifically These
when we're the kegs moved last?
Very gently moved a few feet morning. I Knew I was calibrating so was very gentle to not shake them up. They have been in my kegerator for 3 and 6 days.
Is the hose coiled above the keg?
Yes.... or at least the best I could get them. Not perfect coils, but coiled for the most part.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Coupler-Kegerators-Dispenser-U-S-Solid/dp/B073DM1Z6F
This a link to the style of s type I bought. I’m looking at other s types that look a bit different. Also when I remove the safety spear, I have to wedge a relatively large bit of metal in there, instead of just a coin.
Don't base you decision on whether or not the model that you want comes with a tower cooler. Buy what's best for you, then buy the tower cooler separately if it doesn't come with one.
Sounds like a start relay (from what I know about refrigerators.) Not sure how you can replace it on your specific model. It’s probably possible.
Maybe get one of these if you can’t find the exact relay: Wadoy RCO410 3 in 1 Compressor Hard Start Capacitor Kit For Refrigerators & Freezers 1/4-1/3 H.P. 115VAC https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0723BN9Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7NoJFb4Z9GVTF
For a tower cooler or just to move air around?
I have this blower fan installed with a hose on the end and it blows cold air into the tower. I only turn this on a few hours before I'll be drinking.
If it's just to move air around it would probably be best to just keep it running to prevent cold air from settling in the bottom and warm air at the top. The fan will probably only use around 20 watts so it's not like it's going to be expensive to run or anything.
The Weekend Brewer Ball Lock Cornelius Corny Keg Gas Line Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0NWF15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z-RpFbCVV95FB
These are pretty common. Search online. This may work if you remove the extra corny keg piece.
like this, but i got them cheaper from somewhere. keeps the bugs out, and the brush can clean it.
I agree with Old-ETCS that there’s something odd tapped into there, it should normally be just the barb and a hose clamp on that end. Also your tube is hitting the top of your kegerator, causing some strain on it, which could be pulling it in one direction. Maybe try a 90 degree elbow like this. elbow
As someone else mentioned, the easiest fix is probably the cooler fan - it's a simple device that takes the refrigerated air and forces it up into the tower. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Coldtower-ST-Kegerator-Tower-Cooler/dp/B00IGBTZDI/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=cold+tower&qid=1595251771&sr=8-3 .
Usually it's just screws and nuts. The nuts will create pressure to hold the tower in place. Mine has a little rubber gasket ( https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Tower-Gasket-Kegerator-Repair/dp/B01LYT9PBW ) which sits on top of the kegerator below the bottom collar that was also linked in this thread.
this cheap one from amazon
and to add: i did have it sitting on my desk for a few days while waiting, and it seemed to stay consistent to the air temp in the room
I have a similar model (although it's labeled as Kegco, it looks almost exactly the same) and it will fit two 1/6 kegs or one 1/6 and one slim 1/4, but it won't fit two slim 1/4 kegs. A reviewer on Amazon posted the same thing.
There are cheaper options out there though. Just gotta look around
Edit: looks like the link doesnt work but I just searched Amazon
I would say a tower fan like this to control temperature in your tower and also a thermostat like this Johnson controls to keep temperature consistent. Also forward sealing faucets like perlicks to prevent your tap handle from sticking.
I use this. It's a little pricey considering that it's just a weed sprayer adapted to a beer line coupler (you could figure this out yourself for cheap), but it makes everything simple. The amount of cleaner needed per treatment is about a shot-glass full, so that cleaner lasts a long time.
And I usually clean after every keg, but not always. Really as long as your home environment is clean and your beer lines are running (not dormant for weeks), you could clean pretty sporadically if you really wanted to, but I prefer to clean them.
It's not really time consuming. Just hook this thing up in between a keg change. Run a jug with cleaner through it, then run a jug of clean water through it, then tap the next keg.
I bought this and I'm very happy with it.
However, I ended up upgrading the drip pan to stainless with a drain. I also put in a tower cooler. So by the time I spent more money on upgrades, I probably got awfully close to the price of a commercial model, which already has those features. I might have gotten something like* this* in hindsight, since those features are installed. But either way. I'm happy with what I have.
And for that money, I'd get dual taps. I like having 2 beers on tap, and most of what I like is only available in 1/6 kegs, regardless.
So, to follow up, I ordered the Perlick 630SS and all the weird grossness went away! It turns out it was old beer sitting just above the piston on on the faucet on my old set up (and basically molding over the course of a day, yuck). I highly recommend this thing, its awesome.
You can buy rebuild kits. All parts for kegerators are basically the same, minus compressor and cooling systems. Kegco Draft Beer Tower Rebuild Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045MS416/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UxesxbSFSSJTJ
This is what i used and bought new couplers for whatever style keg you are using.
I would probably shoot more for 2.5 v/v with a german pilsner. Try to dial in to ~13PSI for 40F. This should make it taste more like the brewer intended. Here's a blower fan if your serious about fixing the first pour foaming issues. There are also DIY blower fans you can build for much cheaper but will take a few hours to put together.
thanks for the info.. man i did not think this was gonna be so complicated to get a normal consistent pour.. its a commercial keg with this kegerator http://www.amazon.com/Nostalgia-KRS2100-Kegorator-Black-Dispenser/dp/B000HJVYDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457474569&sr=8-3&keywords=kegerator
Thanks, my research was pointing me there and i ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y
does that look right?
If it doesn't fix it, that probably means i need more freon somehow, or replace the whole compressor?